How To Fill Low Areas on Bumper Cover Don't Use Bondo on Plastic
In this video I am going to demonstrate how to use adhesive filler to fill low areas on a plastic bumper. Body filler aka Bondo is not designed to be used on bare plastic.
For more information and cost of the 3M EZ sand two part epoxy adhesive visit amzn.to/3uFmOI9
This product uses an applicator gun - amzn.to/3mAMNNX
Adhesion Promoter - amzn.to/2QdU7D2
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Bondo works fine. There is different kinds of Bondo as well and you need to know which to use and how to adjust the amount of hardener to keep it from being brittle. Been using it for 20+ years and never had a problem once I gained experience using it. Also, adhesion promoter is unpredictable at best and will give you more problems and headaches than it's worth. Just prep the surface properly. The paint will adhere just fine as long as you don't go heavy on the first few coats because the solvents will soften the tooth. A couple light coats will seal it up just fine. Adhesion promoters are around because of high production shops want to spray things fast and get them out the door. Letting things dry to seal a surface is not in their interest. Be patient and don't get in a hurry. It's just paint.
First comment I hear on the adhesive promoter giving problems. I preped and sprayed my quad plastics with adhesive promoter and finished with paint. After the clear coat it started to crack and had sandpaper finish in some spots. First and last time I use that stuff.
Thank you 👍
I thought the adhesion promoter was so the Bondo will stick to the plastic
@@FrancoDFernando short answer- Bondo is a mechanical bond. It will fail on sheet metal if the surface isn't prepared correctly. Adhesion promoter is just a sealer before paint and is itself a chemical bond with solvents designed to soften a polymer and impregnate it with solids. Knowing this reaction and it's effects on different substrates under known environmental conditions will determine the outcome. Solvents in paint however are by design just there to thin the pigment (different solids) for application and are designed to just be a medium and evaporate (flash) off. The problem is these same solvents tend to soften the tooth (sand marks / mechanical adhesion) on polymers and can lead to the paint lifting. Bondo itself (depending on the type) holds up to solvents ( Xylene, Toluene, even Keytones) quite well and even though promoters are used in fast turnaround shops for the reasons I gave above, they can lead to problems themselves especially if you haven't used them before or can't have a booth to control the environmental conditions that allows for repeatability. This video showed him using a two part adhesive as a filler. The fact that he shows himself sanding off the promoter and correctly explains the mechanical bond properties of the adhesive just reaffirms that it really isn't needed. The use of the adhesive is most likely because, 1. It's cheaper (time is money in a production shop) 2. It's faster (both in labor and cure time) 3. It requires no thought on the employee's part when it comes to mixing ratios. Less waste, and less screwups. Current industry trends are to make cheap products that allow businesses to hire cheap unskilled labor, while still cutting down on waste and time,, it brings operational costs down. And that is the bottom line. No one in industry cares anymore if it will last more than 5 years due to planned obsolescence. But cars from 1955 are still around with 67 year old bondo and filler under the paint. Knowing and having experience is the key here because every plastic is different, and the conditions can be different and each of these and more are variables that will effect the outcome of the job. Professional painters when hired are told what to do and what works in "their" shop (known environmental conditions) but often never the why. This knowledge came from the shop's many years of finding out what works and what doesn't. Think RCCA. Someone that never worked as a painter has the great joy of learning all of this himself through trial and error. It's not something that you can read a book on or watch some video about. Real life is putting in the hours and listening to those that have.
@@ahole5407 oh nice....thank you so much for that (no sarcasm). I was looking into repairing these two holes that the dealership drills into the front bumper for the front license plate, and I was looking to use the bondo bumper repair and was told to use an adhesion promoter. You're definitely right that you only get that info with experience; I quickly found that out when doing my own drywall and other stuff around the house. You learn things that DIYer or "expert" videos/articles never tell you about. Thanks again.
This was so helpful and really well videotaped. An truly excellent how-to. Thank you so much… 🇱🇷
Great video I always wondered what to use for plastic
Thank you!
hi donnie smith, is water based cleaner better than wax and grease remover ?? what is difference between wax and grease remover and water based cleaner??
Can you just paint o we that patch or you have to spray primer?
Wonderful job and thank for sharing your knowledge Hawaii Aloha from Hawaii
Great vid! But I’ve always used grease and way remover and/or alcohol on bare plastic to remove the mold release. Never had a problem as long as I use an adhesion promoter. I always recommend adhesion promoter even for small spots, with mixing spraying and flashing it’s only like an extra 5 or 10 minutes
What's the number on the adhesive from 3M
Do you need the adhesive promoter before applying the adhesive? Can I just use the adhesive promoter over top?
Is there a follow up video that shows the rest of this repair? Couldn't find it
I live in the tropics - high humidity.Which type should I use? As far as I am aware, we use the same one that is use, for example, on the fenders.
Doing this same type of repair tmr at school. That is why I’m here. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and good luck on your school project!
This guy uses good products. I would let him do work for me. I work in the paint 🎨 dist. And sales. So I know what products he has. Good work man.
Gee thanks for that lol
Thank u sir. Highly appreciated. U just showed an old dog bodyman a new trick. Havent taken any updated courses, or done any real bodywork for a while now but i was really good in my hayday lol .. a mediocre painter tho.. only done 3 cars, each better than the previous, and the 3rd was nice due to a quality gravity gun. Cheers
Any other product option? How about plastic steel to fill that low spot?
So after sanding the filler and it's perfect and smooth, do you add primer and do you need to sand it?
Yeah buddy, if you apply sealer then you don’t need to sand
Better Mic and better diction (maybe a Word comment on materials) good video
What if I needed glue a plastic lip onto a plastic bumper and then mold it into the bumper
What product is this??and where can i get the spray and filler at?
The adhesive I am using in the video is 3M Flexible EZ sand amzn.to/3gsLDmx. The spray is polyolefin plastic adhesion prompter 05907
Could I use my cordless sander with 220 grit for the webbing on my rear plastic bumper
Yes, that would work. But after applying the repair adhesive I would block sand it level.
@@CarAddictGarage any block sanders you can recommend. I used a 220 to get through the webbing and hit it with 600 grit to smooth it out. She’s looking good and smooth now. Imma scruff her up and primer her Sunday
@@Gone_Rogue300 I like Dura blocks, but any block will work fine.
@@CarAddictGarage Dura Blocks? I’m gonna look into
@@CarAddictGarage appreciate it. I seen this small little rectangle block that this dude wrapped sand paper around. Which one might that be? It was small but perfect for tight places
Is that Panel Bond adhesive your using instead of Bondo?
No, it comes in the same cartidge, but it is designed for plastic repair. It is called 3M EZ Sand Multi Purpose Repair Material.
@@CarAddictGarage I really do appreciate your videos and do you feel like it's better to use than Bondo on all phases of plastic repairs? also I will let my buddy know that owns his own collision repair shop because Bondo is about the only thing I've ever seen used on different types of plastic repairs,, if it's something that doesn't get replaced with a new part because plastic body parts are slowly rising in prices and I'm seeing more plastic repairs starting to happen these day....
I have molded a plastic bumper lip into a plastic bumper and the Bondo well the body filler is cracking. What would be a better way to have done that cuz I still have the other bumper to do and I have to redo this one now
Fusor
What is the adhesion promoter for before paint or what the flexible epoxy stuff is expensive enough I don't think I want to buy the adhesive promoter too LOL
🤦♂️🤦♂️Bro... it's to make sure you expensive filler actually stays on. He says it in the video. Do you really want to spend your time and money on a repair that's more likely to fail just cause you don't want to spend no more than $30 dollars on adhesion promoter?
Alex, I'll take things that I'll probably never do for $500.
Can you tell us more about the name of the repair materials and where you purchased them? Thanks
This is 3M's EZ sand flexible repair adhesive. You can check it out at amzn.to/37fqDx9
@@CarAddictGarage thank you.
what did you use instead of bondo?
This is a 3M plastic repair adhesive.
So I shouldn't be using duct tape? Damn!
Adhesion promoter’s just straight up acetones in a can
I assume thats 5887 3m
Yes, that is the number.
Poly o thene? I’m pretty sure you just made that one up. Is this just a spoof video?
Great content but bondo is the brand not the product :)
I think he knows that. The use of the term "Bondo" has come to refer to polyester body filler in general. What else ya got?
Bondo is a trade name like Kleenex. Knipex is another brand but channel locks are called Knipex.
@@amthevision8931 Channellock is a trade name like Bondo or Kleenex. Angled tongue and groove pliers are called channellocks in the US. Knipex is a German company similar to Channellock.
Body shops do NOT do all this crap, I know I run one.
Says a lot for your work right there 😆
@@scottrussell7334 Seriously. I thought he cut a few corners even. Lol. I'm sure MrMac doesn't have my problem though. I never see my repairs come back, so I don't have a constant stream of money from one repair.
Or just use jb weld plastic bonder
Will this be a viable alternative? Any other good alternative products?
I get a kick out of how all of these self proclaimed experts don’t use proper terminology. Bumper faces are not made of plastic, they are made of thermoset polyurethane, which is technically not plastic.
Thermoset polyurethane was used in older vehicles, but is rarely used these day for bumper covers. Thermoset is difficult to heat and reshape and to plastic weld. The plastic used today is polypropylene blends of PP, which is a thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is meltable, reshapes with heat easily, and is easy to plastic weld.
I do not have money to buy that product
Remind me why is this better than bondo?
1000 times stronger, works better, no cracking, no expansion and or contraction, flexible enough, finish comes out better, pretty much every single thing is better, except the $. , it will outlast the entire vehicle...
@@luknehyba5692 So bondo is still good for bare metal?
@@johnkim1656im not sure. i dont use that brand. if Bondo makes epoxy, and they probably do, im sure its fine, has to be better than the orignal type of body filler. All im saying is if you want better all round everything, then 2 part epoxy[s] are the way. any brand, although some brands are better.
3m long reach tube wastes a lot of adhesive. And spray cans of weird cleaners and promoters are for fools that enjoy wasting money to feel good...