How to Replace/Fix Rocker Panel + Floor on VERY RUSTY Toyota Pickup Truck at home
Today I replace the rusty floor and rocker panels in my 1980 Toyota Pickup. Cutting out a rusty rocker panel on a vehicle and welding in replacement rocker panels or custom sheet metal is a long and tedious job. Being from Ohio, my truck is more rusty than average, so the rust also went up the inside walls of the cab and even into the engine bay. I used a reproduction floor pan, and cut the replacement rocker panel from a parts truck. I also had to fabricate a lot of additional pieces from sheet metal because the floor pan did not cover all of the areas affected by rust.
Products Used:
Vevor Plasma Cutter : s.vevor.com/bfP9P6 Discount code: VVSALE5 for 5% off
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Corded Drill: amzn.to/3JDQvCs
Spot Weld Drill Bit: amzn.to/3TBy8CT
Bench Vise: amzn.to/42upl9T
4.5” Grinder: amzn.to/3nhGS53
Cutoff tool: amzn.to/42DINRF
Locking c clamp vise grip: amzn.to/3K1R9ej
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Ball peen hammer: amzn.to/40evZzA
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Switchable On/Off magnet: amzn.to/3X45sD1
Weld thru coating: amzn.to/40xiw5I
welding blanket: amzn.to/42M0lLs
Lincoln 110v Mig Welder: amzn.to/3LKFORe
Auto Darkening Welding Helmet (recommended): amzn.to/3nleH4U
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My used OEM Toyota Parts for sale: yota.6thgeargarage.com/
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations, but you can support the channel with some rad 'Yota gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.com/merchandise/
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This is so therapeutic. I did the same thing on my 1996 Cherokee. I felt like I brought my Jeep back from the dead, because it was failed because of the rust. It's nice cutting away the swiss cheese, and fixing it.
For not being a pro you are doing a great job
Thanks! with all this practice, I might be a half decent welder by the time this truck is done!
This series is a blast to watch. In my country (even though it's a 3rd world country with a weak economy), the pickup would be considered as scrap or too far gone. So basically jobs on this level are not done. We don't have road salt and are in fairly dry environments. I live a 30-minute drive away from the ocean. You do get rust here, but that's mostly due to poor maintenance, but cars that stay next to the beach, especially old cars like Land Rover Defenders or VW Beetles, develop serious rust issues. Our classic Toyota pickup equivalent (hilux) also suffers from rust issues. I have been on the lookout for an FJ62 Land Cruiser for a bit over a year now, and they all have rust in my area. But in the Northern parts where it is very dry, you would be able to find a nice example, though not many have popped up.
Thank you! I'm glad to try and save this truck because there just aren't a lot left on the road in this region.
O ok ok ok oo
To me , you are a Pro !!!. Good job.
Thank you! I was very happy with the way this one turned out.
Bloody great work mate! Cheers and respect from Australia!
I've been spoiled by the rust free southern vehicles where I live. Having moved from the midwest almost ten years ago, you have my deepest sympathies. The only rust on my latest project (89 s10 blazer) is in the passenger floor pan from leaky weather strips getting the carpet wet.
I need to stop torturing myself and start buying vehicles from down south!
Flex seal really works good on weld seams. Installed sbc in Suzuki side kick . Weld til i got tired of welding. Went to FlexSeal and made it water tite .
Holyyy shit the convenience of this vid I gotta do this on my 88 4Runner soon so this Is perfect timing lol
Very good content, for a hobbyist your doing a grande job, keep up the good work, faz from UK
Thank you!
Amazing overall job but I suggest you to replace the body mounts in the near future because they are heavily rusted and they are structural parts.
They will all be replaced when I swap the cab onto a fresh frame 👍
Hey my pinchwelds in the rockers were clogged up. You might open up the drain slots a little before you put it on the road. I think they were too small from the factory so they clog easy and help the rust form.
That's a great idea... thanks!
Good video brother. I’m going to start workin tomorrow on my new for me 1968 vw bus, you will be my guide with this videos haha…👍
You can also use an old coat hanger to fill your gaps. Now yourself some Eastwood Internal Chassis spray and coat the inside of those rockers.
Thx. I like to watch what you did and all the explanations. Another channel to subscribe.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice work! In Massachusetts the inside would look just as bad. I’m always amazed when I see sills just fall off, and the metal inside is 100% paint free. They need to start dipping cars again. Superficial paint jobs just don’t cut it in the rust belt….
Thanks! After all this work, this truck will never see salt again in it's life. Hell, I'll probably never let it see rain!
@@6thGearGarage yea, can’t say I’d blame you there! I can’t have nice things like that, the only vehicle I seasonally retired was my FJ40, and that was only because I was too lazy to put the top back on.
Looks like a fine job to me !
AMAZINGNES!!!
Nice work.
Thanks!
hi where you have gaps in your joins use a coat hanger to add extra wire as your welding with the mig
Great idea... thanks!!
Have you thought about looking on auction sites and buying a beat one from an insurance auction on the west coast as a donor?
Yeah I watch them but after shipping and fees they can get expensive. I’m going to be able to make one good truck out of these two bad ones, it’s just going to be more work 👍
Like how you do your videos, very helpful, well done 👍😀
thank you!!
Use a hanger to fill up the hole
Good idea, thanks!
Should have cleaned them frame rail up while they were visible.
I would have, but this frame is a loss with all of the rust holes on the back half. I have a good southern frame that this cab will end up going onto: kzhead.info/sun/mtF_qJqHjKlti6c/bejne.html
Really enjoyable series to watch. I don't know if you said this or not but is this going to be a daily driver or more of a show truck? Really looking forward to the next one.
I’ll be using it as a shop/hauling truck and I’ll probably drive it around for fun as well, as long as the weather is decent. It will be lowered with wheels but definitely not a show truck, at least not at first.
I have an 80 Yota Pickup with a lot of the same rust areas as yours. I am decent with mechanical fixes, but never messed with body work. I am using your videos a lot, so thanks for all the awesome detail you put into the video. I have one hole i am still stumped at how i am going to fix. Its on the top of the cab, on the rounded section, going down into the drip rail. Not sure how i am going to fill that hole. Also, not sure how it started there and not in the drip rail. Drip rail seems fine.
I've seen a lot with rust holes in that area online, but never in person. I think around here the frame is done before the roof every has a chance to rust. Are you in the south or west? I wonder if years of UV burn through the paint and expose the bare metal, which then leads to rust over time? I agree, that's going to be a tough repair because of the curves and getting it to look perfectly smooth when done.
@@6thGearGarage SW Oklahoma. The frame looks pretty good, from what i can see on the outside. Need to get my inspection cam up on the inside to see what it looks like. UV thing makes sense. Some point the previous owner primered it red and filled those holes with silicone. Also have one cab mount thats gone in the floor and in the cab up against the rocker. Currently watching your floor video, to get an idea on how to tackle that area. Discovered the Windshield was leaking and temp fixed that with some silicone. Problem is, they covered it with fiberglass, so i will have fun getting that out. Also didnt like they swapped a 4.3 in it, but its growing on me. Or that they cut some of the core support out, to make clearance for the rad. But it was pretty cheap. Not sure if i can add the link, but here was a short video i found i could upload. Will have to get a better one showing the issues. kzhead.info/sun/rJdvd6iaa6yMd2w/bejne.html
good job but to be definitively efficient, you should have put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind bumper, behind (inside the car) the repair you can make. For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year. for hidden areas, grease is much better than paint
Why did you not paint everything with a cold gal paint before assembling esp the sections enclosed?
I'm going to spray the inside with Fluid Film which creeps into any tiny area. But not until everything is primed and painted first.
А почему усилитель пола не приварили в самой панели пола?
I don't think it was needed since they will be compressed together with a large bolt
@@6thGearGarage стоит все таки приварить несколькими точками. Засверлить в полу отверстия и поставить электро заклепки. Иначе смысл этой детали теряется. И они будут двигаться с полом относительно друг друга - болт с резинкой не обеспечат неподвижность.
This is titanic work. What is the cost of labor for such work? You are making great videos. Greetings from Poland
I have no idea what a shop would charge for something like this… maybe $1000? Everything is so expensive nowadays.
молодец
If you can find the replacement parts
True, I got lucky with this southern parts truck. There are more companies starting to make replacement panels.
Technically you used the weld through primer wrong. You're supposed to grind off the area where the weld goes, leaving the copper/zinc coating surrounding the weld area
I read once that only a tiny scratch is needed in the coating to expose the bare metal underneath and get the arc started. Then once the arc gets started the rest of the coating didn't matter. To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of the weld thru primer since I've started spraying the insides of panels with fluid film. That seems to creep into every gap and crease over time and keep a corrosion resistant coating on everything.
@@6thGearGarageyeah, in all honesty, something is better than nothing. To my understanding it's weld contamination. I personally would treat the rust and remove it all when you had access to both sides with some kind of acid. But to each their own. Repairs will eventually give out
@@mrkimpham I've been saving up my YT earnings and purchased one of those laser rust removers last month. It's currently in a shipping container from china. I should have it here in late January. Rust is the biggest slowdown I have on these projects... excited to be able to quickly take care of it soon!
@@6thGearGarage I'll be over to use it later :o
@@mrkimpham If I ever set it down... I might eat or go to bed at some point.
ПРИВЕТ! А ЧЕГО ПЕСКОСТРУЙ НЕ ИСПОЛЬЗУВАИШЬ ?
I do not have a sandblaster.
я понял! а так отличная работа!@@6thGearGarage
are we not discussing the elephant in the room... and how rusty that frame under the floor is ... !? ... why not address that rust while the floor is out ?
That frame is beyond saving. I'm making one truck from two bad ones and the other truck has the good frame. Here is how I refinished that other frame that only had light surface rust: kzhead.info/sun/mtF_qJqHjKlti6c/bejne.html
@@6thGearGarage thanks!! and good luck with your project!
the gap on front of the rocker panel is where you copy puddin fab shop momma didnt raise no punk and i aint afraid of welding a gap
Haha I could have tried but with my skills would have probably ended up burning through or making huge boogers
Ese pick up quedo puro frankestein pero cuando lo vi como estaba tomando forma me quede impresionado sigue adelante hermano este tipo de videos me encanta verlos porque aprendo mucho yo tengo un corolla te31 79 y eso carros son una maravilla saludos desde guatemala enviame tu intagram
Thank you!! Instagram: 6th_gear