Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade Kit - Part 3 - Final Build
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Bear Upgrade Kit: geni.us/BearUpgrade
Extruder and X-Axis: www.thingiverse.com/thing:322...
Bed Bearing Holders: www.thingiverse.com/thing:282...
Designer of the Bear Upgrade: / gregoiresaunier
Prusa MK3 Kit: geni.us/PrusaMk3
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Found your episodes on the Bear Conversion Loved it will be doing the Bear Upgrade shortly, found your in put into putting the kit together invaluable..
This was a GREAT Build upgrade, this has certainly inspired me. Awesome series thank you and hope to see more please :)
why do i feel like this guy has all these steps memorized by heart. awesome job!
Beautiful, just beautiful!
That is an absolutely sharp looking printer!
Nice build, Joe.
I just watched this series again, and wondered if you were still planning a follow-up video. I am definitely thinking about making one of these for my second printer someday.
Hello Joe, It looks amazing!! I am looking at a MK3s and I may do this to my 3... bit in orange and black with the extended Z!... Thank for the videos!
A helpful tip for using calipers to measure depth is when you slide them open the piece that pops out the bottom can be used to push up against your piece and it is now a depth gauge. Google "How to measure depth using a vernier caliper" and you will see a diagram on what I am talking about. Great Video though. Keep up the awesome content.
was wondering if someone was going to mention how to measure depth properly
i'm sad that i needed to scroll down this far to spot this comment. It was very painfull to watch the guy who "teaches" others how to do it when he himself does not even know how the caliper works. On the other hand you sir deserve a medal for not being rude and not roasting the poor fella, instead teaching him how to use that instrument. Faith in humanity restored. Video is good indeed, though.
Awesome build
Awesome job Joe! I did a new build in Green of the Bear and added a Mosquito Hot End to the Bear X-Axis extruder. Keep up the great work!
Thanks buddy. i'm thinking of now getting another kit and do it fully custom :)
@@3DMakerNoob Go for it! thats what i did with mine, Misumi rods and bearings, and i redesigned the Bear X-Axis extruder to us a Mosquito hot end. Now I want to redo my stock MK3!
Awesome , looks Good!
absolutely love the colors red white and black, almost like my favorite soccer team
Thank you :)
Beautiful printer! Thanks Joe.
Thank you very much Ron
Looks great!
That black shirt tho, looking dapper!
Congrats you just built an AM8 with Prusa parts
?
AHAHA ...
built*
Hahaha!!! Brilliant!!!
🤣👍
Thank you for sharing us :)
Looks like a nice kit. Interested to see the black screen, sounds like a fun change and I've never really liked the blue.
I got my bear 2.1 kit in Feb this year, finally getting around to doing the upgrade. But I hope there are precision improvements when trying to keep prints at 100% speed. I am adding the LGX with mosquito magnum to the mix.
Love the color combo.
Thank you :)
your build is much better aesthetically than the original
EXCELLENT helping videos
I have an A8 and I've bought parts to upgrade to MK3 Bear. Only thing I didn't buy were the bed, rods and servo motors. I was always new to 3D printing. Hoping to learn more out of this experience.
To help with the adjustments of the guide rail locations, I would suggest: - Set the calipers to 82mm lock down the caliper. - Then use the long, thin rod/piece that pops out the back of the caliper slide to push the rod holding bracket until the base of the caliper slide touches the metal frame. That is the most precise and repeatable method instead of trying to get the caliper points to be flush on both parts.
Very good point, I keep forgetting that part of the calipers lol
Thats the best looking FDM printer I've seen! LOVE the colors! Way to go man! Excited to see how it prints, Benchy soon?
haha, definitely :)
Wauw. Great upgrade
Thanks for sharing😀👍
Got mine to the point where I just need to rewire and I am done. I am going to be moving in a month or so and just haven't been that motivated to finish it up. But one mod to the bear I am thinking of doing after the move is to increase the X axis by about 10mm (3 v-rails and 2 linear rods) and fit a purge bucket to it for my Palette 2 and not worry about the purge tower. I noticed in the video that you didn't do step 20. It's suppose to calibrate the axis with the bed to make sure they are square I believe.
Tighten the screw on your caliper to lock it in place. That will help with getting a good measurement.
Love this build, thanks! Is the review of this printer published yet?
Is there a review video about the difference between the upgrade and original?
Nice build, I think it would have looked better with black(or another color) instead of white parts. Do you still get the #602 error? I get it occasionally with my Bear frame. I printed the Prusa ecor-tower and it came out perfectly but that was done in vase mode. I never knew about LDO motors until I saw this, interestingly though, I just checked and my i3 MK3 came with LDO motors as standard.
so one question. why no Loctite on any of the screws? I figure over time some of those screws are going to loosen from the vibrations of the motors.
I noticed that you did not mention that when you do the Bear extruder upgrade you Must use the Bear firmware to do the calibration due to the fact that the Bear extruder is slightly larger than the Prusa extruder. After calibration then load latest mk3/ mk3S firmware.
Hi, thank you for this video from build. Can i ask one question please? Did you make XYZ calibration? If the answer is yes, any error appeared?
Could you share your print settings for the LCD cover, please? I noticed that you don't have the layer lines on the side of the case (nor on knob).
Joe, you seem to mix parallel and perpendicular. I had the same problem when I was learning all of the technical English ;)
if the rodsmount is so critical, I would design a fitting for it that will help you with the position. ( 4 pcs as a mold ) , you cold use the y axis 20x20 for that
There is a spacing helper already existing: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3153637
When using a caliper to measure distance from an edge use the end that sticks out. Put the end of the pin against the printed part and the body of the caliper against the frame. Ready.
In this case, it's actually a better option to use the step measurement that the caliper has (The top head of the caliper and the top head of the traveling section are perfect for this application)
(separate comment in case it gets removed for the link) www.measuring-tools.biz/step-measurement.png
@@andrewodonohue8729 thanks. That's even better. I learned something new today.
Did you ever do the follow up on the long term on this? Considering it for my Mk2 when my 2.5 kit comes.
How difficult would it be to scale up the bear frame, use a CR10 style build volume/Build plate, and change the firmware to match the settings? I have a spare 300x300x400 that I would love to tinker with, main concern would be the firmware for me, and how after a home, you set the ranges. I could just go with a cr10 with a direct drive, but not as fun....
No criticism meant in the following comment, but check out a how-to somewhere on using calipers. It would have made the process just a tad easier if you used the calipers slightly differently. Using either the depth measuring end or the back side area of the external jaws makes the process pretty damn easy.
Agreed, but in some places it’s very hard to find the right position for the placement of the calipers
Nice video, I can actually use that frame for a new printer that I've been thinking about. Are you going to keep making your troubleshooting series?
yes i will, i actually am behind on that and will be doing a few of those very soon so i can catch up :)
@@3DMakerNoob That's fantastic! I always find them helpful and insightful, thanks for the great job and support to the community around the world :D
when re-using the bearings for the slide bars did you re-pack them with grease?
do these beat kits fit the mk3s+? also how are you liking it now? anu problems with ringing?
fantastic build! it was a pleasure to watch this series) but why didn't they pre-cut necessary deepings and holes? so many t-nuts, so much room for error
Very true, however at the same time you are left with a lot of play to customize as you wish and not be bound to use a Prusa kit. Ultimately you could easily convert your Ender 3 into this with a few modifications
@@3DMakerNoob Yeah, i didn't think about that. Thanks)
Is there an STL available for the cable clips? I like them more than anything I've seen so far.
github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/tree/master/full_upgrade/for_mk3/printed_parts/stl cable_clip_ziptie.stl, cable_clip_round.stl, cable_clip_lcd.stl
For some reason I read the title as “Full Beer Upgrade.” Maybe the next one??
Prusa MK4 will be this. I’ll bet money on it.
you'd lose that money, trust me, save it to buy a mk4 ;)
3DMN 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I know this is old. But did you ever make the video of the screen replacement!?!?!
e Excelente , lastima que en thingiverse los archivos ya no están disponibles.
11:52 Help us, please, with the multimaterial MMU2s, MK3S.. There's so many of us out there struggling.
What is your skew on new frame ?
There is a bear version of the LCD panel. thing:3270133
Hey where’s that update on this? Is it worth all the work?
what if i could make it bigger in all axis ? any reason why that wouldn't work ?
which profile you used to print the pc MAX PARTS?
hi can you send me link or list all screew that ar necessery?
What is the difference between this and the Haribo Edition ?
Nice! please compare prints made with your stock Prusia printers to this one that you've built. Not just Marvin or Benchy but something more challenging. Isn't that the whole point? not just to make, but to produce better results?!?!
I would also like to see this.
Can I use T slot instead of V slots?
where are the files for the lcd cover and circuit board case?
I feel like cloning the prusa using the frame and other parts would be more cost effective.
So after using it for some time, what are the real benefits of the upgrade? Does it quantifiably print better?
honestly, From a MK3 to a bear no, from a MK2 to a bear, yes, worth the ugrade
looks like there is really impossible mount bearings without skew in prusa :) your table bearings extremely skewed. I thought it is only my problem, but like it is common
Looks like the extruder cable bundle will foul the einsy case door before the extruder end stops against the Z-Axis blocks.
Nope, works just fine. Also since it’s mk3 based, there are no endstops installed
@@3DMakerNoob Yeah the "end stop" is when the x carriage hits the Z-Blocks with the trinamic drivers. I have issue on a standard mk3 where the cable bundle fouls the frame and effectively randomizes the X position after a crash detection, causing layer shifts - temporary solution is to turn off crash detection :)
The colors are amazing. Not so sure this is actually an upgrade in terms of stability though...
in fact in the first part i had said i don't consider it as an upgrade as of yet, i just like to make it "my own" version :)
I would have done a black and red color skeem
I can't see the point of doing this to the already stiff MK3.
Was it worth it, you think after a few months of use?
To be completely honest, the changes aren’t huge, it’s more of a customization thing. I think I would have seen more improvements if it was a MK2
@@3DMakerNoob Thank you! :)
Hey Joe, you forgot to touch on step 20, aligning the Y axis position, which is probably the most important step of the build process. A lot of first time Bear users, including myself, were dismayed when after the calibration was run to have their printer say that it was slightly skewed. Centering the Y axis in this step will resolve skew. Here's a link to the step: github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/blob/master/full_upgrade/for_mk3/manual/assembly_instructions/step20.md
Very true, the reason is that once I did the calibration process it told me that it perfectly perpendicular so completely forgot to mention it
You know, nice and neat kit, no doubt.... but... I cant get the idea of buying an overpriced upgrade kit for an already overpriced 3D printer, i.e. Prusa..... I was looking at the extrusion prices in EUrope (not a typo) and went to my workshop and built one from 9mm Baltic birch plywood as per the reprap wiki i3 box frame... And does just as good as any test prints I've seen from different "experts" and "reviewers" on KZhead... Not being funny here, but for the price of an original Prusa, I can get two CR-10's or similar (delivered), with all the upgrade kits and have spare cash for filament to last me a year. Like the channel, keep making!!!! Regards
Idk why im whatching this. lOl
probably my charm and gorgeous hair, it happens lol
You say the parts are made of Polymaker but you don't state which kind? PLA or PETG?
Polymax PC, I mention it at the start I believe
@@3DMakerNoob Thanks, I must have missed the PC part.
PETG
Великолепная, красивая Прюша!!!!! С уважением из России)))
спасибо :)
Wow, I am surprised at how so many people seem critical about this upgrade. When I went Full Bear I was surprised that my print quality was slightly better due to reduced vibration... just sayin'
Mike Ratcliffe I doubt the vibrations are reduced with more pieces of extrusions ... I strongly doubt
I dont really get this upgrade, i thouught you were going to use the frame with wheels on some points.. this basically dont add anything other than perhaps a bit more rigid frame but i would stick with mk3 if i had one
Basically it's all about having the full set. The rigidy also allows you to put the PSU outside an enclosure (which is nice to have, but there are also other ways, yes). The most important thing overall is the bear extruder, which has a nice straight filament path (unlike Prusa's, ugh). But you are right, you will be perfectly fine with an original Prusa, this is just an upgrade for around 130$ that just makes it a tiny bit better. But at the same time, that money could've been put into a new Mk3s or even Mini
it look great, how to convert a solid workhorse into a top of the line solid work horse, so jelly :)
that's a bad way of setting your rods, you should evenly space them with a print between them first, that's the most important thing also the mounts shouldn't fit like that, the best way to mount a rod is with a 2 part mount that screws together to clamp the rod with proper tolerance
And yet it all worked perfectly fine :)
Why not just get this kit and buy the rest of the parts separately to make your own working printer ?
I don't think that bed is available separate but you can buy similar size.
Ronny Julian the bed can be bought separately through Printed Solid.
Looking at this just from a mechanical perspective, the original version is better in terms of rigidity in my opinion. Replacing a steel frame made from one piece with bolted together aluminum extrusions isn't good for rigidity. Also by using more aluminum, the weight gets reduced. But for dampening vibrations more weight is better.
MK3/S frame is all aluminum. It has been since the MK2.
@@pet3ro yes but in one piece
Nothing commands strips can't fix.
everything is perfect! BUT !!! Why!? Why printed parts are white !? They must be orange !!! ))))))))))) thank you for video
You really need to learn how to use your digital calipers!
So what is the point here....aren't you just reinventing the wheel?
The point where to show all who like to see modifications, how he modified his Prusa with the Bear KIT.... Doh! Why make a comment when you have nothing good to say? Just have to be an azz?
Facevi prima a prendere le componenti e la bear , e risparmiavi bha
Sorry to say that but it looks to me as just a waste of money and time. Original PRUSA is solid and much better looking. Thanks for sharing.
why upgrade when u can build 1..lol
Il senso ? È molto meglio l’originale pezzi unici , non piu estrusioni unite che generano vibrazioni ... inutile soldi buttati ... che ignoranza