LSD conversion and full rebuild. E46 188k
2022 ж. 29 Жел.
5 472 Рет қаралды
In this video I take apart my 188k Differential and rebuild it entirely, while adding Racing Diff's LSD conversion set
Bearing used:
Sidebearings. 2 needed
Jap F-801298.trp1-H79-T29
Pinion big
Koyo HM801310 and HM801349
(covers both the race and bearing)
Pinion small
Koyo HM88510 and HM88542
(covers both the race and bearing)
Complete bearings package, crush sleeve and seals
found on ebay
ID: 133351492703
If you want to support my car parts addiction you can donate 5 dollars here:
ko-fi.com/juhlsgarage
Hey Tim - Just found your channel while browsing for 2002 mod vids and am watching this one now, but wanted to say good on you for starting the channel to document your work and share. There are so many of us out there who don't know, like me. I didn't even know you could convert an e46 open diff to LSD. Rad. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much. That warms my heart. I hope you find the info youll need on that timeless classic of yours!
@@OEMplusRESTO I bought a Schmiedmann M20 header to put on my motor that back in the day was a legit motor swap back in 2005. Can hardly call it a motor swap by today's standards... Will be working my way through your e46 vids. I daily an e46 touring 2,0 in Holland. Keep up the good work!
@@GoProEC i like schmiedmann for what they provide. I hope your headers fit better than mine though:) I just finished a s50 project so im back into the e46 starting tommorow. I will clean and paint the underside and restore the suspension as well. Hope to make some decent content from it and have a nice looking underside too. I hope you have a nice day
So glad I found your channel, very informative and I can't wait for the next one. Thank you for taking the time to document your journey.
Im the one thanking for your participation:-) i did another diff here Differential Restoration - BMW 210mm - E31 E34 E36 E38 E39 E46 kzhead.info/sun/iM-ypKaCooOlo3A/bejne.html Its a bit ff topic as i test various stuff. Bui i really like working on diffs
Tim another great and informative video. Thank you
Awesome channel, got a 330ci imported to Sweden from Denmark only a few months after delivery 2001 there, quite rusty rear axle. Will definitely come back to your vids if i get stuck restoring my undercarriage :)
A neighbor? Awesome. Feel free to join my facebook page if you have any questions during your restoration. You can find the link in the channel page
Thanks for the vids! few things I've learned in the process (only did a rebuild, not a conversion): -Tip I got from an old pro... cut the difficult-to-access races on the carrier and pinion at an angle (carefully) with a cutting wheel to create a stress riser and crack it with a chisel. If you have a straight, even cut it cracks easily. Keep the cut as narrow as possible with a thinner wheel. A "sharper" cut at the bottom concentrates the stress and allows for cracking better than a wide cut with a rounded bottom that distributes the stress. Do not cut too deep, maybe a little more than 1/2 the depth of the material. Once groove is cut, put a large flat chisel in the cut and give it a good whack, should crack and come loose. This method is used often in shops when dealing with live axles and other applications that do not allow for a puller/press to be used. -Used a (well secured) bench vice to clamp across the input flange and tighten the pinion nut, no special/custom tool needed and I would say it's actually easier than a flange holder when setting preload as it is quicker to free the flange and check while tightening pinion. -White lithium grease works to check your gear contact pattern and is easier to find than "gear marking compound" if you don't have any around. My ring/pinion/spider had minimal wear, so I just replaced all bearings and put it back together with the same spacers in the same places. Setup was perfect first time, luckily. Don't forget the spacer under the inner pinion race that presses into the case and sets pinion depth. -1/4" drive beam-type torque wrench can be gotten for about $20-25 online. These are the most accurate/reliable type of torque wrench and work very well for low-torque applications, so I would recommend having one around anyway. Use adapters to attach big socket and measure pinion bearing preload. I ended up about 1.6-1.7 Nm for Koyo bearings based on the e36 spec chart, which was somewhat in the middle of all of the ranges I've seen in trying to find a good spec. So, it should be good, I hope. The manufacturer of bearing determines the preload (on e36 info anyway, none published for e46) and there is a large range of values depending on the bearing manufacturer, so I would be wary of generic across the board preload specs. Tighten in small steps, preload will increase exponentially to corresponding turns on the nut, and once it gets close it tightens very quickly. Preload feels good, will see how long it runs. Hopefully this helps someone, thanks again
Ill have to read it a few times but alteady now i love your lithium grease trick!! Gear marking compound is stupid expensive for what it is and how much you get, and often dries out if you dont do alot of diffs. I do sometimes use the angle grinder but i dont like angle grinders so if i can remove races without it i do that. Thanks for the tips so far. If you look at my channel i have a 210mm diff revuild that is much more detailed(better view and less fuss) than this video. And a prettier before/after too
Also, i now use a bicycle torque angle gauge instead.. those are cheap and good and can easily measure 1-2nm which is where by far most bmw preloads live
Endelig!👍🏼👍🏼
In official Racingdiff YT chanel they say that load on input flange should be 0.5-1Nm.If you want your diff to last long time, it is important to asembly all the parts right way, if not pinion and ring gear can be easy wear out too soon. And right oil is important too.
thanks for the input. It depends on the bearings used. Bmw service manual for the e36 for instance has a list of bearing brands with everything from 0.5nm to 2.5nm depending on brand of bearings used I did it by hand as i have always done and have yet to have a diff with issues from it. Would be nice to have the right tool though. The right oil is also important as you say. But its the viscosity and ls modifiers in the oil that matters most. Liqui moly is good oil. Good enough for me at least. And good enough to test it out before swapping in a torsen style replacement a little later down the road
Did you use 75W140 LSD oil?
@@dds_e46 yes. Liqui moly
Does this conversion change anything about the gearing ratio? I was thinking about swapping my 330ci's diff (2.93 if I remember correctly) to a 3.46 diff for a bit more acceleration. But I also would really like to have an LSD, so Im wondering if I can convert my own diff or if I should buy a 3.46 and have that one converted.
Hi Perry. If you can wait a little i hve a 2.93 diff arriving i will do some tests with and compare to the 3.38 i have now. But no. This conversion can ve done to any of the ratios without effecting the ratio it self
@@OEMplusRESTO thanks! Im very curious. Did your 3.38 come from an auto 330i?
Yes it did
How does this conversted diff feel in use. Could you do a vid from it and does it destroy anything?
I dont notice it in use that much.. only really when exiting corners or launching the car hard
Do you have to machine the drive shaft flange to make it Fit ?
Only yhe output shafts need material removed
Great video, very helpful! Did you measure the backlash on the crown wheel?
Thank you. Sadly i didnt. All bmw diffs i have rebuilt there have never neen a issue if i reuse the shims so i didnt think of it. But now that you mention it i wish i had just for the “fun” of it. And maybe the gear pattern as well
@@OEMplusRESTO all good man. I ask because I have literally just finished fitting a blackline lsd into my 188k e46 differential. I messed up the original bearings trying to remove them and had to replace them with a new part number. I checked the backlash and it was right on spec at 0.06mm. Very impressive engineering tolerances!
@@callumw8719 im jealous lol. Well done. I really wanna install one in this car and will probably do so once i have tested this racingdiff out. Im also a bit amazed at the machining tolerances in bmw diffs. I have rebuilt some non bmw diffs and when changing bearings have had to set up pinion depth and backlash all over again to get a good pattern
@@callumw8719 OOF! I am smoked on how I seem to have so much backlash in my E46 diff. I am not a the original owner and I wonder if someone rebuilt my diff and flip flopped the shims. But it is a mile of backlash.
@Callum W, how are you finding the blackline lsd? I'm considering doing the same swap.
When you gonna test it?
Sadly it will take a while. Maybe 2 Months. Need to finish the rear end restoration and make everything underneath look good
So this will make it to a lsd, so u can fx do a burnout with both wheels, instead of one as standard
Yes. But alot of people say it doesnt hold, while others do. So far mine is holding but i dont do any burnouts though. Just spirited driving and accelerating out of corners! I’ll convert to a torsen for a future video. Maybe look into that solution as well
@@OEMplusRESTO nice. I would love to see that. Do you know why some says it wont hold? Is torsen better?
@victor-xy7dq its small in size compared to “real” lsd clutch plates found in facotory bmw lsd’s The torsen is a no-clutch type of lsd. There are pro’s and cons to both types of LSD. But the torsens work well and cam be retrofitted somewhat inexpensive See blackline torsen diff for a low priced decent unit
@@OEMplusRESTO thx Tim, you're the man. I could also find a older e30,e34,e36 lsd and retrofit it. so there's plenty of options, but im gonna have to sleep on it.
@victor-xy7dq just yesterday i priced that option out.. really good conversion, but also extremely expensive. Cheapest real lsd is the torsen style blackline, and thank you. Im here to help. Literally. Let me know what option you do and how you like it please:-)
who is this hansome guy ;-)
Not me lol
😂