Detroit diesel 8v92TA 2 stroke diesel tear down. Rust broken bolts counter bore problems
2024 ж. 24 Қаң.
34 585 Рет қаралды
Detroit diesel 8v92TA engine rebuild tear down. Engine block counter bore inspection. Roots Blower and turbo removal and many broken bolts and seized bolts to remove.
i'm very impressed with the young man your teaching all the right things to. I've been meaning to say this for quite awhile but keep forgetting. He is a very good student, learning from a very good teacher.
He is an even better asset to us as a husband to our daughter and father to our granddaughter.
I completely agree with your comment not many good old school mentor's teaching the next generation
Didn't realise he was your son in law!@@BusGreaseMonkey
@@BusGreaseMonkeywasn’t there another young man too? Btw, how is Tayler, since a long time he didn’t publish anything on his channel 😢
@@MrRossi1805q q
You guys are the best thing that's happened to that ole bus in a long time.👍👍
Scott-- your calm and patient mentoring of your son in law reminds me so much of my late father. He was a USAF veteran as a mechanic on a Convair B-36 aircraft and became a machinist and licensed aircraft mechanic. I learned so much about automotive and aircraft mechanics and electricity from him. Your son in law is so fortunate to have you!
left us on a cliff hanger... did they get it out? I am on the edge of my seat!!!! Thank you so much for your content, I really enjoy the pride you take in a job done correctly, and just tackle the problems as they come. can't wait for the next installment!
Nope, there’s another video, they break it another time or two. It’ll have to be drilled and probably new threads tapped.
This one is fighting you at every turn!
Jonathan is the man - Scott, you both make a dynamic duo.
It seems that only a few people have ever been taught to shock a bolt by hitting it straight on with a hammer BEFORE attempting to turn it. I first learned to do this from an old Detroit Diesel mechanic back in the 1980's when I was getting ready to remove a hub cover from an aluminum hub on a trailer. He told me that BEFORE I even put a socket on the head of the bolt I needed to take a big drift and a 2 pound hammer and smack straight in several times on the head of each bolt (like trying t drive it deeper into the hole) to shock the rust bond loose that surrounds the bolt shank and threads. I already knew from experience and word of mouth that these hub cover bolts were notorious for breaking when removing them. So I took his advice and smacked every bolt head a few times before trying them and they all came out intact. Since then I have made the hammer smack a step in the process any time I have a bolt that has been seated in an aluminum component for a long time. At the time I learned of this I had already been doing mechanic work for over 12 years and had never heard of doing it. It seems that the technique is still not very well known.
Also work the stuck bolt back and forth while apply a little penetrating fluid to it. Working the broken stud like this will allow oil to work its way down on the threads.
Also, 1. Try to tighten bolt 2 degrees to try to loosen corrosion. 2. If bolt has not loosened keep turning each way 2 degrees to keep working lubricant into the crevice. 3. After bolt starts to turn change rotation to keep threads from locking up!! 4. Take your time with each step - 99% of all fasteners will loosen. Slow and steady takes less time and cost less than fixing broken components. 😅😅 ❤Love the show and can do attitude to keep old coaches on the road. I have an 84 Bluebird with a 6V92TA
Hey, what’s with the cliffhanger?😂
He has lots of patience for a young man!
This is one of the most neglected engines i can't believe it drove as long as it did.
I really enjoy watching these tear downs it's always informative this last one was a rust bucket and I wonder how many parts you're going to be able to use out of this thing
Wow that hole engine has been a nightmare for you guys , unbelievable….
I would love a more complete and clear description to liner bore protrusion measurements….describing where measurements are taken as the top of the liner is not flat. There is a lower point and a taller ridge. I have met all the Detroit experts that don’t seem to have a clue only to discover what they don’t know. I appreciate all the great content! I’m a sponge for it all. I’m working on 6/92 marines
May I suggest that on any rusty, stuck bolt. After spraying it with Kroil , beat on it appropriately to shock it. Especially straight down on it, which will relieve the torque on it.
Great video I liked the longer video and seeing more of the tear down . Thanks for sharing.
Great to see someone bringing a new life to a great engine!
Love this channel, thank you
Great as usual, wish you had more videos I could watch all day. Keep up the great work!
Nightmare fuel Now i wobder how much rust is under this rustalodge after seeing this engine that looks like it was under the ocean for a few months... Prayers for no rusty chassis🙏
Glad you turned the spray can at the end so I could see the name on it. Ordered me one. Nice tool tip.
Good job yall
great video guys thank you very helpfull
The gas rig has long been one of my go-to wrenches for tough bolts. That and giving a bolt a little shock from the impact before working in it. Great work on this beast that's putting up a real battle.
I would recommend removing the aftercooler and thoroughly cleaning it, if it looked dirty on top it's probably dirty right through the core, it's a small area for all that air to get through so any buildup is restriction. The ones I've cleaned it was unbelievable how much crud came out after soaking and blowing out. The last few I did I soaked in straight superclean degreaser overnight then poured boiling water through followed up with a pressure washer. When they're clean you can see a flashlight shining through.
Spot on bro. This engine has been neglected so everything is suspect.
I thought about the inside of the aftercooler too, after seeing the rest of the cooling system condition I am sure the core is pretty clogged and gross.
keep the clips coming
Great video. I purchased a pair of teckton locking pliers off Amazon. Looking forward getting them. Thanks Scott !
This engine is fighting you all the way!
😮😮😮😮 Big job 💪💪💪💪 you can get it Done
what a disaster glad your fixing it ,im sure the owner will be pleased they'll think it's a race car not a bus after your done. cant wait to see the test drive
This one has allot of tough build issues but interesting especially for your tech
I see a sandblaster in the shop soon!! Holy cow so much rust
Great find on the Tekton locking pliers I will add those to my toolbox just like the Knipex pliers, another BGM find. Oh, and those snapon mini pry bars for all the things we destroy screwdrivers for.
My sympathies. I was so excited to see that turbo drain bolt come out. Next, I see the threaded ends aren't the same length in the magnetic tray. 💔 The rest of the video is just more 💔 after 💔 with more and more cap screws. snapping.
Lot of hard work with the frustration of broken bolts. Kroil by the gallon.
Heat and beat ! reminds me in my younger days replacing a oil pan on an old 671 in an old wooden boat, had the 671 0n its side using a tourch to heat up the oil pan bolts, bilge full of diesel and old oil heads of the bolts sizziling as it hit the bilge water, no fires but the whole yard crew came running down to check for fires as all the old oil burning of the block,,,,,,need less to say new oil pan, good to go heating with a tourch is your best friend !
Jeeze! The owner is going to be in $1000 in hardware alone just to get it back together! I'm surprised how many bolts actually came out of the top of that blower housing without snapping. As you mentioned the dissimilar metals love to seize together.
If you have a pair of vice grips that are not perfect you can weld a small nut onto the side edge and use that to stop the air hammer from jumping around. Great job!!
Without you guys, that bus would be left to rot.
Aww man! I hate cliffhangers!
You give me great encouragement to maintain my old cast iron piston GM car engines properly. Are you far from a power line or is the expense overboard?
As they say "the struggle is real".
Write a book and you can us this engine as an example of everything that can wrong with an 8v92A.
Just wondering if you used a copper coat or anti seize on the bolts when you put it all back together
After all these years of service it still makes sense to rebuild this engine. California would never let you run it through. Our governor has never turned a wrench but knows better than either of us.
I don't know if you control the SUBTITLES/CAPTIONS or KZhead does but without them it's difficult to understand the voice audio at times. (granted the subtitles are kinda nuts at times but it's better than nothing)
Just a thought as I did buses for the Detroit Diesel Distributor and we made a cradle to slide the engines in and out. A lot less work in the long run.
We have a detroit diesel out in the shop right now on a stand. But the Wanderlodge is easy access all around
Always enjoy watching and learning. Have you ever tried Rydlime for cleaning corrosion and muck from engine innars, heat exchangers, etc. Safe, reusable, and remarkable effective. I was put on to it by an old farmer/mechanic. Used to great success on marine heat exchangers.
The tools and the patients to deal with years of corrosion.
The 8V92TA is one of the best diesel engines around.
Who ever worked on this before didn’t think ahead for next time . I always use antisieze on dis similar metals ,coolant ,water exhaust .spend more time with corrosion than rebuild . Makes life easier for next time . If someone else does work on engine he will benefit and see first hand the improvement . There’s enough that can go wrong or wear out Don need broken or stripped threads being one of them . Thinking of coolant rust and corrosion. I’m sure if uve been around DD u know of benefits of NALCO . To prove this to radiator repair guy he Roddenberry and cleaned repaired my radiator .8 years later rebuilding engine I took radiator to him clean it up . He opened it up . Was cleaner ,than after rodding . . Hoses last 5 to 6 times longer .
Enjoy your videos. Ever consider using a rubber matt over the batteries?
When loosening stuck bolts, if it moves, go back and forth from tightening it, to loosening it, while spraying it down with kroil. It chases the crap out of the threads so you don't break bolts as much.
One thing. Typically Visegrips usually work better when loosening tight bolts, nuts or studs when pushing toward the movable jaw rather than away from.
Your a lucky man to have lovely sons to help you a learn a trade
Not sure if you have heard or seen magnetic induction heater to heat bolt or stud to ease removal
Those things can be like magic. Friend of mine has one.
Left me hanging.😢
Please put some wall board or corrugated metal behind the work benches to protect the foam insulation from sparks and torches. I'd really hate to hear that you had a fire in that foam!
Well nuts...
Is this thing really worth saving? I get that your essentially committed at this point but if everything in the engine bay is this bad what about the rest of the bus?
Looks like it was run with just water instead of proper coolant. I never knew why but at one time in UK it was common practice to only use antifreeze in winter and use straight water in summer.
Wow, that was a fight, looks like the bus was working in a salt mine. Probably the worst I've seen on your channel. Like the vice grips, I want a set.
What a tease....... Did the broken bolt come out or not????????
That bus would have me running and screaming like a bigfoot through the forestry!
Nasty rust and dirt, its a lot of work to rectify poor maintenance. Keep on going with the hard work, busses are loving you.
A cliffhanger at the last bolt.
No cliffhanger we fell off the cliff with it.
Are you using official Detroit sleeves and pistons? If not can you recommend an after market? I have a 871TI in a boat can’t get parts. Enjoy your videos. You have come along way from when you started. Bart
Try a straight edge and 8:07 feeler gauges for sleeve protrusion.
Do you replace all of the nuts and bolts when they are as bad as these?
Was there ever a thought of a replacement engine? Or would the cost be much more than your repairs?
Do you use antisieze when you reassemble, or is there an issue with that? I use it on everything. Also, when I remove a sized bolt I always slowly work it back and forth, and spray oil until it becomes loose Rock on guys!
Cliffhanger on the last bolt.
scot get yourself a piece of metal fuel line about 6 inch cut teeth on one end using a hack saw you will find it is the right size for the hole the bolt is stuck in run the pipe in down the side of the stuck bolt it will follow the hole already there that is full of crap by spinning the pipe in a drill it removes all the crap holding the stuck bolt steady away and you will get there
Oh man you left me hanging, did the welded on nut get it out, how many time did you have to reweld a nut to it…
No it didn’t work and number of times still to be determined ;)
24:33 From what I can see, this gentleman did not take care of this vehicle. Looks like he did all the wrong things. One needs to keep up on the maintenance of any vehicle. I love to watch your videos very interesting.
He just bought it. Broke down just starting his first trip
@BusGreaseMonkey Oh, ok. Then, the previous owner was the culprit of not telling him that there was a BIG problem with it.
Scott, couldn’t the broken bolt problems be solved with anti seize on the threads, then installing the components ?
I'm wondering if you have to send those pistons, liners etc. back as a core, or is it just so much scrap?
No core
We’ll call this the dissimilar metals engine ! What could possibly go wrong. Steve
This engine job would justify a large beadblast cabinet and maybe a powdercoat setup!
This engine is in such rough shape, that I wonder the history. What, other than the obvious neglect, would let it get so bad?
Cliffhanger!
You have my deepest sympathy , those rusty bolts would have had me screaming .
Are you sure this Wonderlodge wasn't submerged once in salt water like a Florida hurricane 🌀
Reaching like that and lifting heavy things got me a hernia. Lift smart.
Brother, I don't understand why you didn't pull the whole block out of that chassis. Also don't understand why you haven't pulled the turbocharger and supercharger off. Especially with the overheating situation. I'm sure you know what you're doing, and I'm not a lame and I worked in the heavy truck industry for a lot of years and worked on a lot of 8v92s but I think it would have been a whole lot easier to get that out on an engine stand and do it that way. Just my opinion. Okay my mistake, I didn't watch you to the end I was in the middle of the video when I put this together so, sorry hahaha. Great video!
The Wanderlodge has plenty of room. Also, I'm sure Scott would appreciate it if you stopped by and removed the engine as you described for them.
Volume please
That was stressful just to watch.
What happened to Scott's son, Tyler? He was in so many video.
It's been mentioned in the comments of previous videos that Tyler decided that he wanted to get into a cleaner line of work and moved back to Indianapolis to pursue other interests.
I was about to ask the same question.
I’ll bet those exhaust manifolds are warped. 100% with all those broken fasteners.
That it a lot of nasty rusty bolts, nuts, screws, washers and studs etc..
I was going to say you we using those vise grips the wrong way but you flipped them around later in the Video..NO big Deal..Wouldn't it be easier to pull the Motor and work on it on a bench..?
jesus man idk how you do it
You Monkies got your work cut-out for ya on dis one, always easier said than done 😮 no fear 💪☮️&❤
I know its called a inframe rebuild but wouldn’t it be easier all things considered to yank the engine out?
What are you hoping to achieve and how much more access do you want? Everything is easy to access from all three sides. Nothing to get to on the back side.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Im not a mechanic, I enjoy very much your videos but you guys always seem to be hunched over or reaching to get wrenches on bolts. Thought it might be easier.
If the radiator tanks look like that, how bad is the Block!
Would you have an easier job by taking the engine out of the bus. Been there , done that
It’s got great access all around
A bucket of rust.
You need patience for this job
I think what you've got there Scott is a genuine FUBAR. Surely the labour cost is going to be at least half the cost of a new (reconditioned) engine.
You know I was just thinking. What was the other guys name? Hunter maybe? Did he quit/move on? Just was thinking I haven't seen him in awhile on the videos.
Hunter graduated from our local community college and went off to full time college away from home.
Some $100 bolts there .. just for the removal.