Range Rover P38 buyers guide (1994-2001): Common problems and faults
Land Rover Range Rover P38 1994-2091 Buyers guide for 2.5 DSE, 4.0 Rover V8 and 4.6 Rover V8. Avoid buying a broken Range Rover and find the LP Range Rover that can go off-road and on-road without breaking the bank. Avoid the mistakes of buying a broken P38A Land Rover as a project and attempting to fix a broken Range Rover. This buyer's guide covers the LP P38A Range Rover from 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002 in all trims from SE to HSE, and Vogue as well as the Autobiography and 25th and 30th Anniversary. The Land Rover Range Rover Vogue P38A is now becoming a modern classic however, owners and buyers may be nervous about reliability so we have created our guide to help inform on the best years and worst years and most reliable P38 Range Rover.
The issues discussed in our buyer's guide to the P38A Range Rover include coolant issues, electrical problems, and air suspension. We also discuss the benefits and downsides of the petrol and diesel engines and give information on the mpg for the M51 six-cylinder turbo diesel, and both Rover V8's in 4.0 and 4.6-litre.
🚚 == Range Rover P38A parts ⬇️
🚗 - P38A Range Rover polybush kit - ebay.us/Oqp5B4
🚑 -- Pollen filter replacements - ebay.us/kqLRc4
🚑 -- 2.5 Diesel Service kit (Filters) - ebay.us/J2XwHQ
🚑 -- 4.0/4.6 V8 Service kit (Filters+Spark Plugs) - ebay.us/SEkTmD
🚙 -- Braided Brake Lines - ebay.us/tS6Mpk
🚙 -- Front+Rear brake discs and pads - ebay.us/BOoG1W
🚙 -- Front+Rear performance brakes (Grooved) - ebay.us/KrMKf9
🚙 - Front brake caliper rebuild kit - ebay.us/XQ7gEo
🚙 -- Rear brake caliper replacement - ebay.us/uDwBsi
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I can only speak for the NAS 1999 - 2002 models in the US. I've owned two. Both were broken RR's and I cut my teeth as a mechanic fixing all the problems. They all have the same set of problems and you'll likely have to do them all, if not now then later so might as well sort it and be done with it. If you don't have the tools or the interest to work on one yourself - don't buy one. Parts and knowledge base for any skill level is easy to get. Great community. I loved mine and only sold them when I moved out of the country during the Pandemic. Once you fix the problems they're good for another 20 years don't believe the clickbait or the poor college kids who think it's a Honda Civic. I've crossed rivers with water over the hood and drove one across country. No problems. Be realistic but don't believe the internet hate either. This video is the most balanced I've seen. God, do I want to buy another one.
38A comes from the building that the engineers who developed the range rover were stationed at the time.
+1 Miles Driven bonus point 😁
I Had the bmw diesel in a 2000 p48a. Two yrs old Ran it across to the UK and had a fearn full size intercooler fitted, oil cooler modded and the chip remapped The difference was like night n day. The vehicle had the extra power to motorway cruise without changing down on steeper inclines. Economy was improved and i could get quite easily 7.5 LTRs per 100kms. Dumped the viscus fan and replaced with a kenlnlowe electric fan HOWEVER Reliability - forget it. Electrical immobiliser was activated by the same frequencies at other domestic appliances. Result the vehicle would not sleep & a few days later days later FLAT battery! Not a joke on a P38a... Changed the little receiver box (rear parcel shelf) genuine LR part (slightly different frequencies=no problem) this should jave been done by LR on a normal service. Other problems - ECU fault problems - regularly. - Leaking ac weap hose leaking into driving compartment - air suspension problem (leaks) Result of all this humbug - carried a Bible in the glove compartment instead of a handbook! Key - ignition - pray... Kept it about 18 months & sold it. A few years later bought a L322 far better vehicle. But LR service n reliability just put me off on them. Run a series LR and defender (Self repairable) but NEVER a P38a
Some great owner insight, thanks for adding to the video 👍
Awesome video
Many thanks 👍
My most costly repair was high pressure fuel pump, but I was kinda ready for it broken eventually far before I even bought my p38. Besides this car is freking reliable, relatively cheap on some parts and enormously cheap on most. Consider NOT buying original green oval LR marked parts, cos their prices is some kind of anecdote. Britpart got you, almost every time. EAS valve block and compressor are pretty solid, just repair o-rings and membranes - they tends to wear out, but it's ok for 20+ y.o. car, I guess. Basically, all that was broken in my car, was so of age, and, when repaired, feels rock solid. Love this car so freaking much.
Gets in a car. *Beep beep beep* "Good morning, sunshine."
If only they had gotten the M57 from BMW. That is their most reliable engine and also the most reliable common rail light vehicle diesel engine ever, and it can take tunes extremely well.
You can swap m57 but like by l322 the gearbox will fail due the torque limitation of p38 (zf?) and like by l322 (gm) gearbox.
Despite the bad rep the m51 is quite reliable on his latest review after '97 (or the plastic intake version) where the major issues such as headgasket and headvalves failures are much less common. Yes it isn't the most performing diesel on the market but moves around 2+ tons with ease.
@@mcmaus321 The 38 has a ZF4HP22 that can handle 380nm but the major issue is the custom bell housing and the electronics that need extensive modifications.
@@TheAndre8900 yeah the revised versions are almost always better in every way, OM606 is another legendary diesel inline-6 that would be a great match for it
Cost issue i expect…
love mine so much gremlins or not they are absolute fun and comfort with our without LPG i would not hesitate to buy again i have two anyway... one thing i will say is i prefer the 4.0 to the 4.6 no real difference in power to be felt unless really heavy towing and they are not built for speed but my 4.0 sat at 100mph in Germany very easily but will scare you if you watch fuel consumption ;) well puit together review and if you are handy with your diy skills definitely worth owning one at least once :)
Why do you prefer 4.0? They basically have the same gas mileage, but 4.6 has just a bit of extra power.
@@georgpold1830 i have had two 4.6 and both blew the engine i now have two 4.0 thor and they are simply better that is a matter of opinion though and past experiences :)
@@wesleyconn620 Thanks for the info. I have a manual 2.5 diesel P38 myself and I'm considering buying another V8 one.
@@georgpold1830 simply because i have not had any issues with the 4.0 and had issues with the 4.6.
The BeCM is located under the drivers seat or the passenger seat in a left hand drive version. But as you’re showing uk models it’s under the drivers seat.
Does this model have air suspension that you can raise? How is it at speed on motorway especially around bends and curves? I want do one as project in the diesel engines abd for use at weekends only
Not sure why he said that for coolant leaks the 4.0 is likely to be head gaskets and the 4.6 a slipped liner. If anything I would have thought it would be the otherway round as the better aligned blocks were used on the 4.6. All being said, I think slipped liners are a thing of the past now. The blocks with such badly aligned blocks such that the wall is so thin have all likely already failed.
On the diesel version, wich one would be Better, the manual version or the auto one?? Cheers
Get rid of the annoying "put on your seatbelt sound" by following the wire at the the bottom of the driver's seatbelt receiver to where it snakes under the carpet. Easily seen from behind the seat. Gently pull the wire out from the carpet and you'll see the white connector. Unplug that connector and the car will always think the driver's seat is clipped and thus no sound.
I have the nanocom black box. Bit pricey, but better than £120 a visit to the rr dealer. It’ll clear faults as well as diagnose them too. And with these cars that about three times a month 😂
2:57 from where did you get the background video?
I wonder what is more expensive to keep around. A Range Rover LP P38A or a Lexus LX 570 that gets 20 l/100 km😂
We used to have a 1996 Landcruiser and that thing was a 10mpg gas hog and it turned like a boat
I have a car I like but it has no key fob. Is their an anti theft radio that won’t let me start it. I’m looking to buy private
Diesels need a good battery. European pollution regs. mean that glowplugs do not activate on a hot engine, making hot starts on an old engine problematic. Either 'trick' the engine management into heating glowplugs (relay fix), or rotate injection pump, or both. I love mine, its as easy to maintain as an Austin 7.
5:58 and this background video
Buyer's Guide: Run away fast!
And be so disparaging of the old timers either. They can run rings round your so called “engineers” of today. I’m one of them!
38A was the building number ?
@grahamellis8045 🏅🏅+extra Miles Driven points🏅🏅
Does anyone know the colour code green on 6.52 please
The P38 had a number of green paint options. With the vehicle you mention having painted sidemirrors, bumper, and the silver trim it's a 2001-2002 model. Very likely we're seeing a 30th Anniversary edition, and thus the color would be Wimbledon Green Metallic.
@@aimbrock you sir are a scholar and a gentleman I'm trying do one up for when I'm in Southern Africa. I want it looking regal lol
What are you on about? Manual diesel versions are the most fuel efficient, engaging to drive, torquey, fuel efficient, luxuriously considered and best! Like a well trained and bejewelled elephant owned by the maharaja of countryshire, with the presence of an urban gangster.
I've been on the lookout for content like this! Subscribed, and I'm ready to believe in myself! _ "Self_belief is your greatest asset."
They are all broken by now
As a former owner, and LR fan, the best Buyers Guide advice is to buy something else. The P38 is ludicrously fragile, ridiculously prone to electric faults and hugely expensive to work on.