Prusa MK3s Clone 3D printer unboxing and assembly
The assembled 3D printer:
Prusa MK3s Clone (Fysetc version): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9H141D OR s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9fP8Jz
PETG 3D printed parts: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gMEpF
If you are not impressed and want to buy the Original one, then you can find it here:
shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=Dombi3D
Original assembly manual and printable parts:
help.prusa3d.com/en/category/...
www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-prin...
Content:
0:00 - Intro
0:33 - Unboxing the Prusa MK3s clone
2:44 - Assembly tips
3:58 - E3D V6 extruder assembly guide
6:08 - How to make your own PTFE tube
6:51 - Other design flaws
7:26 - How to solve the LCD issue
8:57 - Summary
Recommended upgrades from Aliexpress:
Original Prusa heatbreak from Prusa shop: shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/2...
Original Prusa heatbreak from 3D Jake: tidd.ly/3oaW2DP
Full metal heatbreak: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_etF99S
Hardened steel nozzle: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_eKzVNH
Plated Copper nozzle: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_eLXtQn
IKO Japan Bearings: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A3X8lV
Gates LL 2GT Belt: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A44Qvl (X-axis:850mm Y-axis:650mm)
Misumi LM8UU Linear Bearing from Amazon: geni.us/Misumi_bearings
Micro Swiss M2 Nozzle from Amazon US: amzn.to/3eeUXHE
Micro Swiss full metal heatbreak from Amazon: geni.us/Micro_Swiss_HeatBreak
Misumi LM8UU Linear Bearing from ebay:
.DE: www.ebay.de/itm/Misumi-Prazis...
.COM: www.ebay.com/itm/Misumi-Prazi...
🧵Used Filaments:
🇩🇪 - Germany:
Turquoise blue: amzn.to/3dCXYBd
Black: amzn.to/31kpEWL
🇬🇧 - United Kingdom:
Turquoise blue: amzn.to/3kb8QZL
Black: amzn.to/34brLhz
⚙️ My other 3D printers:
Creality Ender-5 Plus: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dU7...
Anet A6L: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dVB...
Anycubic Photon: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A4FOdL
🎥My Gear (Amazon PAID LINKS):
Main Cam - geni.us/3tcH8z
Secondary Cam - geni.us/aDwP0j
Thermal Cam - geni.us/guC9Ubl
50mm lens - geni.us/Vj4iB
24-70mm lens - geni.us/tBQA
Stable mini Tripod - geni.us/N8T4X
Main Tripod - geni.us/0MwSu
Mic - geni.us/50c0
Wireless Mic - geni.us/4gzJO3
Voice over mic - geni.us/k0yg7
#Prusa #Fysetc #3DPrinter
AFFILIATE LINK NOTICE
“As an Aliexpress Affiliate Program member I earn from qualifying purchases.”
“As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.”
“As an Ebay Partner I earn from qualifying purchases.”
I’m so grateful I found your channel! Your vids are fantastic!
Great video, I'm so glad the current is colourblind 🤣
Great Video! Well done!
Grat Szili, kiraly YT csatorna 🙂✌️
Just received my fystec kit and it came with both the recommended all metal heat break and the one shown in the video.
8:36 Now (16.12.2020) they have fully fixed cables they are now plug and play. There are now symmetrical. But still they plug upside down on both ends compared to the original.
I've bought this clone a few weeks ago and assembled it now completely and want to share my experience with. First of all i've never owned a Prusa before but generally I'm not new to 3D-Printing. I printed the parts you need for this 3D-Printer out of PETG with my Cr-10 I already had. For the Assembly I think its also not a bad idea to have an adjustable Wrench, because i had the feeling that no wrench I had fit to the nuts i needed to tighten. For the assembly: Generally when istarted assembling the printer I used the FYSETC aasembly video as guide, but later i figured out that the guide from the Prusa Knowledgebase through the assembly is way more detailed and the comments also helped with some problems i had. The Frame wasn't really a problem, with the video also, the only thing I'd recommend, like it's said in the video, that you should take a look at the bearings and test which one works the best before installing them on the Y-Axis. I bought myself 10 bearings from E3D as well, so that i have the choice, if some bearings are bad. For the X-Axis I started to have some bigger Problems. To put the bearings into the printed parts i took a hammer for help and printed myself a cylinder to hammer the bearings into place, because otherwise i didn't have something to get the bearings in the right position. The second problems occured when i tried to put the linear guides into the printed parts. I reprinted the parts for the X-Axis two times because they broke while i assembled them. When i look back at that point I think i would be best to take the X-Axis Motor and Idler development files into you CAD-Programm of choise and create some more clearance. I don't know if that problem just occured because of the bad tolerances of my printer or are a regular issue. If you are not able to modify the clearance or simply just lazy, you can just take a drill 8mm drill and make the hole the right size. Also check again that the bearings you put on the X-Axis and in the printed parts in are decent quality. For the printed parts of the Z-Axis I also recommend to take a drill or just a drill head because of the holes for the linear guides that didn't fit in the first place as well. When started with the Extruder clearance problems occured again with the square Nuts that need to be put in the holes, the magnet that had to be put in the extruder body and the magnet hole in the FS-lever. I fixed those Problems again with adding more clearance, but i had to glue the lever magnet now, because it could fall out. Keep in mind to put the magnets in the right direction that they are repelling each other. Cable management for the Filament Sensor when putting the Extruder body with the backplate together didn't work that well because the cable was to wide, after i teared the three cables for the cabel channel apart it worked. The Heatbreak as it is mentioned already in the video comes with a PTFE fitting what is suboptimal when you using the original Prusa firmware, so I bought an original Prusa Heatbreak that i can also use the MMU2S somewhen, if I want to. When doing the cable management the cable of the Hotend fan and the Fan itself is different from the that comes with the original Prusa printer, so be aware that it should be done decent otherwise the cable can be jammed and in long therm beeing damaged when homing. Same for the PINDA-sensor cable management. Before tighten the PINDA-sensor, try to cut the brim thats on the bottom because if you don't the arm for the PINDA can easily break. For the overall cable management from the extruder i did not exchanged the nylon filament with something else wich worked also if you twist the cable guide good enough. Mounting the heatet bed was very straight forward, but I heard something about the contacts being solderd instead of screwed can be a safety issue, so keep that in mind. When mounting the Board hinges keep in mind that they can easily break, i added clearence to them and even printed them lying, because they broke in the first place. The Heatsinks that came with the board to put on the stepper drivers were too high for the one on the edge and it would have collided with the board housing, so i took pliers and trimmed it down that it fit. After the Assembly: After the Assembly was finished everything worked fine and like it should be. Flashing the Firmware was unfortunately incomplete and led to an error on the LCD that the External SPI flash W25X20CL is not responding. After some testing it seemed like the Firmware was working although I get the LCD error with every startup and I'm unable to change the language. I wrote an mail to ther engineers but haven't got an answer yet. After a few prints I noticed sparks between the holes of the steel sheet. It seemed like the holes of the steel sheet had sharp edges that scratched on the surface of the heated bed everytime i changed the print plate. I "fixed" the open contacts that created sparks with electrical isolating tape but I also contacted the support because of the issue and they told me they will send me a new heated bed. I would highly recommend to coat the steel sheet on both sides with the PEI sheet. Even though I coated now both sides of the steel sheet the holes still seem to leave imprints on the isolating tape on the heated bed. For future I've bought myself another both sides PEI coated spring steel sheet. All in all I'm pleased with the clone and the PRUSA features that came with it, but i wasn't very pleased with the safety of the heated bed even though I mabe didn't do everything right with coating the steel sheet. Thanks for the great Video and the good information @Dombi3D and @Ole Urgast for the useful information in the comments.
Hi did you use something to replace the Nylon filament or did you just ditch it and used nothing als a cable guide? From you text I understood the later but it is not 100% clear to me. Also, did you get YTP bearings with your kit or just no name? I had a different LCD with my kit (black instead of red) which one did you have and cloud you just use the cables without modifications? Or did you have to modify them like Dombi3D did?
@@lusiada6787 Greetings, i didnt use anything to substitute the nylon, but if you twist the cable conduit its tough enough even without the nylon filament. I don't know if the YTP bearings have markings on them, but i think the delivered ones are just no name bearings. The LCD that i got was a black one as well. For me i just plugged the cables in how it "normally" should be and the LCD just worked fine (except th error i described earlier :D). If you are unsure, if the LCD will work after assembly you might want to check it before, just with the mainbord connected with the PCU and the LCD, that you can see if you need change the directions of the cables.
@@jan5549 Yes they have markings and are packaged in nice sealed bags separately with the name and brand on it. But the bearings also have the YTP brand etched in the outershell.
@@lusiada6787 well then they are no name for sure
@@jan5549 Hi Indeed, they do look original and frankly I cant seen any difference with the IKO's I bough in terms of quality. These YTP bearings look much much better than what came with my Fysetc Prusa Mini clone.
for future projects: instead of cutting off the guiding/security/positioning "pin" and just flip the plastic on the board. yes *just* the plastic can be slid out and reinserted
I finished my 2nd i3 Bear from them this week. My first one has already printed many hours flawlessly. It's on par with my genuine Prusa i3, when comparing printed results.
Did, you bought the fystec bear kit?
@@marioy0 yes, I bought 2 Fysetc bear kits. They run OK, I would just exchange their Pinda for a SuperPinda from Prusa, as I noticed that after some time their Pinda starts giving issues.
thankyou a lot for the information, now i'm going to buy my first 3d printer, and it will be this clone kit
Great video, maybe a great printer. But nothing is better then the original Prusa, it's not just a printer with the best quality it's the community, spirit and people behind it !!!
@@Purely_Satisfying i bought it and i had the same support from the comunity as i'we had bouht the original one, also the print profiles from prusaslicer are the same, i prefer this one over spendig more than double on an original now that i dont have a lot of money to spare
Thanks a lot!!!! Very very useful!!!!
Interesting how different the batches are. On my clones the heatbreak was hollow to put the blue tube down to the nozzle (thats the reason I immeditly saw the difference to original Prusa). With a short PTFE already applied inside the heatbreak, the dangerous difference is much harder to detect, no wonder you had not seen it in your first video. The fast changing contents of the box also might be responsible for some reported underextrusion (or bad first layer): Cloned Bondtech gears might be from different manufactures, having a different cut. They all worked fine for me, but need. slightly different eSteps. So for the Clones eStep calibration is mandantory while on the original it is optional. The different heater with 50W is no problem by itself, but require a PID tuning. More problematicly is the potentially different thermistor. Prusa uses "Type 5" of Marlin, while sometimes the clone is delivered with Type 1. This can cause an error about 10°C in meassured temperature. Hard to detect, but I had some Type 5 flying around and used them to be sure. Alternatively you can of course change the firmware or simply print a temptower to get the right "Temperature" to set in the slicer (so you can not use the nice predifined settings in PrusaSlicer). For the bearings: It is more about missing quality controll than generally bad bearings. As I got multiple Clones (3 Fysetc Clones of the Prusa Mini, 2 Fysetc Clones of the mk3s) I changed two of the clones to high quality bearings - and for the other clones I tested all bearings by hand, sorting out the bad ones. So in summery: The Fysetc Clones (of the mk3s and of the Mini) are quite nice. But you need additional parts and steps in asembly. Also you need some calibration that is not needed with an Original Prusa - but of you do so, you get same quality as with the original for less than halve the price. I recommend following parts: - e3d Heatbreak PE (you can get the special PrusaEdition from 3djake), so you solve the heatbreak issue and also might add an MMU2 later - a Type 5 thermistor - some extra bearings to replace the worst bearings (or a complete set of higher quality bearings) Of course, as you print the plastic parts yourself, in some aspects the Clone can even be better than the Original Prusa. For example the filament runout sensor often is not reliable in the original, as it tend to stuck. It is caused by Prusa printing the parts with 0.3mm layerhight quite fast. So if you use 0.2mm layerhight or less to print the parts of the printhead and print slower, this problem is solved. Also you can even use the old filament sensor (wich also detects if filament moves!) as its missing reliability was caused by the high reflecting PET-G. So if you print the parts yourself, simply use non-reflective black ABS for the printhead (or, more easy to use, ExtrudR Greentech pro black). Of course the most important change: Modify the display case before printing and replace "original" by "cloned" ;-)
Thanks for your comment again! I will use a HSS nozzle on my new builds which requires around 10°C higher printing temperature so I hope that the temperature difference caused by the different type of thermistor will get balanced with the predefined printer profiles.
@@Dombi3D Interesting solution. If I remember correctly, the special heatbreak Prusa uses also require a little more temperature than normal (I think 3d printing nerd had that problem with a certain filament in one of his videos). So maybe the professional solution would be to print a temptower with same filament both on the Original and the Clone and compare results to find the practical difference in hotend temperature needed. If I remember correctly, you can set a temperature offset in advanced.conf. Or maybe use a second nozzle of same type (both on original and clone), drill it wider to insert a reference temperature sensor, and make your own fitting resistance/temperature table for the clone with all it changes... It is esp. interesting if using a mix of original and cloned printers - so the gcode is the same on all mk3s. Prusa firmware is a bit special, a bit different from main Marlin fork. But theese parts are quite stock. So change and compile is not a big deal. A bit more complicated is the Prusa Mini, as you have to compile the firmware for every change (eSteps, PID...) as it does no M500. Of course you can edit start-gcode. But with a mix of Originals and Clones with different modifications this means different printer settings for every printer. I so much prefer every printer being calibrated for its own, so only one printer profile for all printers of a type (O.K. I always have one second profile with virtual extruders for manual multicolor, but not with different startcodes)
can i just use capricorn tubing
@@natebigg802 Capricorn uses PTFE with some additives and more precise manufacturing. It solves some issues low quality tubes have, like deforming early, but If you get to the temperature PTFE degrades, all this do not help. If I remember, deforming starts mostly on 250, degrading on 275. On Capricorn deforming is reduced by additives. But degrading still happens If your printer preheats to Polycarbonate. Anyway - a full metal heatbreak is in the same price-range as Capricorn - and you get no advantage of the higher precisision on the very short tube inside a direct extruder. Also of course it does not have the inner structure to form the tip if you want to add an MMU2 later.
@@oleurgast730 hy Ole the thermistor that selling 3Djake for prusa is compatible with type 5?
I was thinking about purchasing one of these Fysetc i3 Clones. But currently I'm converting my RepRapGuru i3 "Clone" to more of a true Clone. 8mm lead screws from 5mm threaded rod, new Big Tree Tech SKR 2 board and a donated Anet A6/A8 heated bed (don't worry I replaced and soldered the wires directly). Hopefully I have all the bugs worked out and am finishing assembly this week. I take my time and triple check everything. Happy tinkering everyone!
You mentioned in the video the parts worth replacing is the heatbreak and the bearings. Are there any other parts that would need replacing or would that be it? I just need the printer to deliver a decent print quality not looking to upgrade it just yet.
I'm curious how much they improved.
Thanks you
Nice video, thanks. Are you perhaps going to do a review on the clone MMU2S kit as well?
I thought about it because I am printing already with more colors but I swap the filaments by hand. As I saw many people are not satisfied with the original MMU2s either, I did not purchased it yet, but could it be that the functionality is the matter of the assembly quality. Now I really think about to order one :)
@@Dombi3D If you can :-) Would be very nice to see assembly and test video. I am thinking about getting the clone Prusa and clone MMU2S.
Still in the process of assembly, my x-axis (extruder bridge) is about 5mm out on the motor side... Am I going to have leveling concerns later?
Nice video , is it necessary to change all the bearings or are only those of the x and y axis enough?
X and Y would be enough. the 4 Z axis bearings are not moving too much.
Can you print the parts needed to build the with the clone or do I need to buy the parts to assemble?
Can u do a review on the clone version of the Prusa mini
The supplier just contacted me 2 days ago and they offered me one Mini to test it. I am waiting for the delivery right now.
@1:20 re: heatbed soldered contacts - they're not legal in the EU (for good reason). I didn't like this; but easily worked around, just drilled out the solder and added ring crimps
The clone has print fan and hotend cooling fan cable colours exactly opposite to the original. I was following the original manual and had connected them the wrong way. Had I not noticed it I would have damaged the hotend by heat creep. Putting it out here for anyone else considering this clone alternative following this video
What bearing upgrade would you recommend? Excellent video, mate. I am looking forward to build this kit.
I would say go for the Misumi or IKO Japan. I am still working on the Misumi vs IKO Japan vs IGUS vs noname project.
@@Dombi3D Can't wait for that video to drop then. But I did buy the IKO bearings :)
@@Dombi3D we wait new video ;)
@@ste3364 Working on it. New PC, new cameras, new editing software. The learning curve of video making slowed me down, but with some experience into the new workflow should help me deliver faster. Trying to balance between quality and quantity.
@@Dombi3D good luck whit your work ;) and happy cristmass ;)
i brought my hotend from e3d and it was prusas kits i ordered direct from e3d and theres had the teflon tube
Did you have an issue where the stepper motors had a very loud high pitch whine out of the box? I had to edit the prusa firmware to have slightly higher current to the extruder to eliminate this.
I have not met with such an issue.
6:33, it is not Bondtech Gears, it is cloned gears by FYSETC
Oh, I missed that. How can you tell the difference?
@@Dombi3D Prusa is the only one that supplies original parts, FYSETC just clones components
The cloned gears are not from Fysetc; Fysetc buy them from other chineese manufactures. In different batches you might get different cuts. There is a cut that was intended for 2.85mm but also work with 1.75mm. And a cut for 1.75mm only, like the original Bondtech. Due to the different cut you have a different effective diameter. So in an mk3s you need 830 esteps/mm for the 1.75 only cut, but about 870 eSteps/mm for the other cut. If you have underextrusion with stock settings, this is the first point to check...
@@oleurgast730 Your comments are really helpfull and informative! Thanks for your input. I will check them, because I did not thought about it before.
Hello Dombi, what about other two mk3s clones with special components? Hope u add soon.
They are coming next :) Already assembled them. 5 printer with 5 different bearings.
@@Dombi3D great to hear this 👌
Square nuts for the extrusions I can live with, but they lost me with the slot-head screws, c'mon. Good idea to put some thermal compound between the heat break and sink.
Slot head screws what I had at home in the given length. By the other printers I also used thermal compound.
@@Dombi3D I see, so you used those in place of the wrong-length screws they provided, thanks for clarifying, not that wrong length is much better on the manufacturer's part. My FLSun i3 clone also came with square nuts (which I eventually replaced most with T-nuts just for ease of reassembly during maintenance), but had plenty of allen-heads of various sizes left over to swap around. E3d all metal heatbreak was also a big improvement over the knockoffs i tried first.
Hi Thank you for this video. After seeing the video and already owning a Prusa mini clone form Fysetc I decided to buy the MK3S and the MMU2S from Fytsec. The MK3S Prusa clone is almost built (only the wiring and cable management has to be done.) and the process was pretty straight forward. I used the videos and the guide from Prusa, I think using both is a good strategy as the one is a video (which is not very good by the way) and the other only foto's and text, the video can be more explanatory in some circumstances. The only thing I am wondering about is the nylon filament guide, I am wondering why Fytsec does not include this and if is 100% necessary. In the assembly video that do not use it also. One other thing i would like to mention is that Fytsec seems to have made some improvements, I got different square nuts which seem to fit perfectly and I got bearings from YTP which look very good also, I had ordered IKO bearings form Triangle labs and used those but the ones that cam with my kit (YTP) look as good as the IKOS and much much better then the ones that came with the Prusa mini clone. So I used the IKO's and will use the YTP ones for my Prusa mini. Also, I cleaned the bearings with isopropyl alcohol and put fresh superlube grease on them. One other tip that helps with bearing problems and loud sounds etc. is to lossen all rods just a bit after assembly of the gantry's move th agentry's back and forth and tighten it again. I also exchanged the heatbreak for a Triaglelabs Titanium one and brass heatblock also from Triangle labs. Not sure if the brass heat block will cause any issues with temperatures and the used cartridges. Time will tell. Regarding the electronics, I seem to have a different LCD, mine looks better than the ones in the video and the ones shown by Dombi3D, mine has a black PCB with very clear text on it and good soldering, but not tested yet, not sure also if I need to do the cable modification. Regarding the filament detection sensor, on the Prusa guide they say you shroud use the red sensor, but in the kit there is a black one, not sure if this will cause any issues with the Prusa firmware. @Dombi3D, You have stated in your video about testing with IGUS bushings did you test that already and if so how are the results? I am planning to exchange the LM10UU Z axis bearings on my Prusa mini clone and the Z axis bearings on my MK3S clone with these IGUS polymer bushings but want to know how the experiences are.
The tests are ongoing. I am testing 5 different bearings and I want to make the test more scientific with accelerometers etc. which takes more time as I expected. However I already Printed with the IGUS bearings and so far looks good. You just need to take car to not clamp them too strong because then they will have too much resistance. For Z axis I use IGUS for 6 printers. I am working on different projects but I really hope that I can manage that Bearing comparison video also in the future.
@@Dombi3D Cant wait for your video! I think I will print with the IKO's for now and when I mount the MMU2S (wille need to disassemble a lot) will install the icus. Did you read about the part regarding the Nylon Filament? Do you think it will cause issues if I don't use it?
@@lusiada6787 Use the Teflon tube instead. I did so and it works. MMU2S clone also waiting for the unboxing here as well as mini clone, but time...
@@Dombi3D Mini Clone from Fysetc? If so, that is a great little machine! bearings are really bad though. But the rest is very good in my opinion. Regarding the teflon tube, yeah that is a possibility but I am not to fond of using the screws to secure it, Would it be pozsslibe to use a bit of PETG filament inside the PTFE Tube, this part would stick in the extruder, the only issue is getting it secured in the extruder as 1.75 is to thin
What size drill bit did you use for ptfe tube? Struggling to get a conical shape without making tubing bell or bubble out.
I believe it was a 4 mm one.
@@Dombi3D thanks! Any trick to prevent bubbling or from it bending out? Did you use low speed or high speed? Did you put it inside of something to give outside support to avoid bubbling out?
Yeah, it's apparently sometimes a lottery on what you get. BTW You don't apply thermal paste on heatbreak and don't do hot nozzle tightening?
I did not apply thermal paste because it was not included and I did not want to mislead the viewer. Hot nozzle tightening was done just not recorded, though I gave the instruction to retighten the nozzle when it is hot if you listen carefully.
@@Dombi3D ahh I must have missed that. Thermal paste not included? Heh, it was included with my MINI clone but nowhere in assembly instructions it says to apply it (at least not version I downloaded).
Would it be possible to also test the Fysetc MMU2 clone?
I ordered it yesterday :) Will take me for a while till upload a video about it but I do my best!
@@Dombi3D That's great!
I like this series of videos you are making. I wouldn't buy one due to the fact I'm still new to the 3D printing world and not experienced enough to do a lot of assembly but I find this interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Oh and btw I subscribed for more updates. Thanks!
The original Prusa mk3 kit was my first 3d printer about 2 1/2 years ago (exept from a toy, the fischertechnik 3d printer). This was before chineese mostly preassembled printers where sold. So I also started without experience. But due to the very good assembly guide, there was no problem at all. The only advantage of being experienced is becomming faster on assembly. My assembly time got down from 9h to 4.5h, as I do not need to look into the guide anymore and also have some tools like electrical screedriver with fitting bits. So do not get frighten by the many parts - assembly takes time, but it is not complicated. And you get the best printer in its price-range. For the Fysetc Clone only 3 things to be changed: Buy a full metal heatbreak, the original Prusa thermistor and the bag with Harribo bears seperatly (the Haribo can be substituted by any alternative sweets without effect in print quality ;-) As preassembled chineese printers often have loose screws, I have found many of them even more complicated to tune in - I had errors and had to research the cause. This never happened on my mk3... So even for beginners, I recommend such a kit. The time you spend for assembly is well invested. You spare more than that afterwards. The Prusa mk3(s) with PrusaSlicer and predifined profiles is much more easy in usage - so spend a weekend to build it will save you lot of time while using it.
What Linear bearings would you recommend? The original ones from Prusa?
I bought a set of misumi bearings for the other printer and 1 set Igus polymer bearings to test them because of their better price point but my first results shows that the misumi is the superior one. This will be my next video as I mentioned at the end of the video. I put some extra links in the description. I personally bought them on Ebay.
@@Dombi3D Great! Thank youv ery much.
@@Dombi3D The Igus commonly used are made for being put into prepressing fittings. For the design of the mk3 you need the prepressed ones - with a price of about 15-20$ per piece. They are dual material, inside is Iglidur, outside aluminium. They are more quite - but with a good mitsumi or ico bearing it is not worth to pay the extreme price. On x on the Prusa Mini I use two normal Igus bushings. They are more evenly clamped there, so that works fine. So no general recommendation can be made. In my opinion even the cheep ones can work fine - but quality controll is a mess and you need some more and try wich are working well and sort out the worst.
@@oleurgast730 Hi Bought and installed the IKO ones, must say that they are a big improvement, well worth the money! The YTP ones that came with the printer don't look bad at all, will install these on the Prusa mini clone as the ones that came with the mini are terrible. I cleaned all bearing with isopropyl alcohol and greased them with Loctite Superlube.
What do i do regarding the 3D printed parts?, i already bought it but it's my first 3D printer, is there any way to temporary assembly it to print those parts? or any work around? (i bought the bear upgraded one) should i buy a set of 3D printed parts for the Mk3s Bear?
If you do not have any other 3D printer to print the parts yourself you have to purchase it. After it you can make as much 3D printer as you want :)
From where to purchase can ur share the link
Built a PrusaClone: PETG at 230 degrees First layer cal looks perfect. go to print something and after a few minutes the filament starts to fade. Looks like the stepper stopped grabbing the filament. But why? it was so perfect. I suspect that the stepper is overheating and the heat is warping the filament overtime until it gets to soft to grab? I tried loosening the gear screw and had no luck. Any ideas?
That could caused by several things. Clogged nozzle, Heat creep, bondtech gears are not aligned, Teflon tube misalignment. -If you can manually push the filament trough the nozzle than clogged nozzle is not the issue. -The clone has a strong nozzle fan so I would not think that it is heat creep issue. (PETG also not prone to that). -Check if you aligned the gears with the hole. -Check if your Teflon tube in its place. If Teflon pieces goes inside the tube can clog your nozzle. Because the Clone comes with a Teflon tube inserted in the heat-brake on the heated side also, can also cause issues by retractions.
@@Dombi3D I had upgraded my heatbreak as per your recommendation. I also used an upgraded nozzle. I have aligned and realigned the gears a few times with no luck, but i can try again, i was thinking the gears are cheaply made and i should upgrade them to bondtech gears... Teflon tube seems fine. I ended up using one of the original prusa ones i had laying around, and it is the correct length. What else should I consider?
@@UnrealApe in this case turn up the nozzle with around 10°C could be that the temp is not high enough to melt the material. First layer printed slower and that is why it could print fine but when it speeds up not anymore.
@@Dombi3D ah yes, I forgot to try to slow the print down. Thanks I will test it some more🙏
@@UnrealApe I have printed a stepper motor cooling shroud and I used a separate 2 meters usb cable to power up the fan to cool down the stepper motor of the extruder,now it works perfectly
What is the background of the yellow transparent stickers?
Those are capton tape pieces which are withstand with high temperatures without loosing their contact. You would need to use them if you change the thermistor under the heated bed. It is glued with it there.
@@Dombi3D Many Thanks! Great videos about the Clone! I have as well great results with it right our of the box. First build was done in
Is the main board in this package? Or just the mechanical parts and the monitor ?
Mainboard is also included.
@@Dombi3D owe nice, so I just need to print the cover ?
@@lukasz4283 Yes, the 3D printed parts are not included.
my prusaclone restarted during the calibration. it just finished calibrating home and then when it went to check the bed thermister it just shut off. Do i jsut need to repalce the thermister or do you think there is a connection issue?
Got it, switch the PSU to 110V for North America
Is there a cheaper version without the bearings and hotend? It would be nice to save some money and just buy a Mosquito or BondTech.
Why go prusa clone vs ender3? I have a prusa and debating on a second ended 3 since I can get 2 for the price of 1 prusa clone, or 4 for the price of an origional prusa
If we ignore the inherent differences in construction and just focus on quality and what you get for you money. I'd say that the genuine Prusa is high quality and well thought out with pretty much everything included. It will cost you just shy of $800. The clones are, as we can see, pretty good too but could use with a couple of replacement parts. Base price is about $350 and a couple of essential upgrades is another $100 so slightly more than half the price. The Ender 3 Pro is frankly a bit of a mess. It's basically a nice printer but to just get it workable you will want a glass sheet bed, replace the entire hotend assembly with the hero me gen 5, replace the extruder with something decent, new part cooling fan and belt tensioners. So you're going to spend something like $180 and then another $100 for upgrades, a bunch of prints and a couple of evenings installing all of it. And you are still just at workable. Add the silent drivers (which you may get for free if you're lucky), bed probe, spring steel sheet and everything else to get an ender to the same functional level as the clone and we're talking bare minimum another $100. The ender is nice to play with but it is not in the same league. You could get the Ender 3 V2 and get a much better baseline but then you start at $300 and will still need $100 to get all the trimmings the prusa clone has.
Hi, I have just completed building mine but when I try and and turn it on the screen will flicker and then turn off and I have tried putting the led screen cables in many orientations but the closest I got was a blue screen with no letters, anyone have any ideas?
i just received printer. I broken extruder idler plastic part and now i have to wait to print another. May i ask you how u connect hotend 2 wires that have no connector at end wires? Should not be there a connector for motherboard? The wire for temperature sensor have a plastic connector at the end, but thermistor have 2 wires without any plug.
There is a screw terminal type connector in the package. You can build the 3d printer, make the wire management and at the end cut the cable length, free up the ends from the insulator layer and screw inside the connector, after that you can plug it into the Einsy board. Polarity does not matter.
@@Dombi3D man this hotend is crap. I put petg and it clogged inside radiator and overfilled on entire extrusion assembly. It extruded like 2 cm after i finished calibration and wanted to adjust live z . now i have to buy another hotend, i think i buy from prusa straight. This printer is kinda crap. Also some holes from frame for einsy case mount are not properly threaded. A lot of issues. But hotend is a crap. Now i wait 2 weeks more to get hotend from prusa.
@@Flavius-Tech I am over 2kg of PETG with the stock clone hotend parts without issues. Are you sure that you assembled the hotend properly? No filament should escape anywhere just through the very end of the nozzle. You also has to be sure that the bondtech gear on the extruder stepper is aligned with the hole and the Teflon tube inserted all the way down into the heatbrake.
@@Dombi3D It was, 11mm teflon from metal like in ur video. Hotend, nozzle etc was like in ur video. Nvm, i put some pictures on aliexpress on review, literrally all filament filled entire cooler radiator, i think that ptfe from inside heatbreaker was fault.
@@Flavius-Tech 11mm from the metal surface and the other side all the way down? The teflon tube that you put inside ther should be around 44mm long: help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-trim-ptfe-tube-original-prusa-printers_22424 I am curious about your picture.
alguien sabe cuanto pesa la caja?
What in your values in "belt calibrate"?
"Run the Self-test or the Belt test, from Calibration on the LCD. The check LCD-menu -> Support -> Belt-status. You want the number between 240 and 300 (275~). The lower the number, the tighter the belt is. Imagine it is a fictive count of teeth in circulation." Source: help.prusa3d Webpage
@@Dombi3D I'm asking about a clone from fycets. Without a belt, my value does not rise above 240. Is it the same for you?
@@natanbaron7203 It works by me. It is strange that you get too tight values even when the belt is not there. Your motor has to be faulty or the pulley has some contact with the motor body and it makes extra friction.
@@Dombi3D I have a maximum of 250 x and y without a belt. Worth einsy rambo 1.0a. What could be the problem?
wait so it doesn't come with the 3d printed parts for the assembly??
No, it is not!
@@Dombi3D So what do i do in that case? i already bought it after watching your previous video, but this is my first 3d printer... Any work around? any way to "temporary assembly" it and print them out???
Did you just remove the discount coupons for the printer kit? I swear it was there two hours ago...
Yes, because they do not work now because of the 11.11 Deals. Probably on weekend I can get a new one. I wanted to buy some more printers also with them now ...
@@Dombi3D Thats fine I ordered anyways with your link. Thank you for the reply!
@@Dombi3D Any news with the coupon code? I'd like one as well ☺ Also can you share the files which need to be printed? Or at least point me in the right direction? Thanks
@@Blueyedevil2702 Hi, I do not have any coupon code now. I put them into the description of the videos if I have them. The link for the printable parts are in the description section under: "Original assembly manual and printable parts:"
Hi Everybody, Since this place seems to be the best place to exchange information on the Fysetc MK3S I am going to post my build results as it is running and printing now. First the trouble and how to avoid it: Filament sensor. Do not over tighten it! Make sure the leaver inside as some clearance and moves freely. First sign of filament sensor not working well is the auto filament loading not working and in settings IR always stating 1 even without loaded filament. Cracking of the x Axis (or are they actually Z axis) parts (x-end-idler and x-end-motor) one cracked slightly pushing in the rods (fixed with a dab of contact glue) and the other cracked while tensioning the belt (still in place and working but will have to be replaced, will leave that for when I will install the MMU2S also from Fytsec). PINDA, make sure to adjust the hight correctly otherwise a lot of calibrations and checks will fail, I use a creditcard or back card for hight with the nozzle a 0 then lossen the Pida and make sure the bank card just fit snugly under the PINDA and then fasten it. Z-axis misalignment (not fixed yet) some how I notice that a couple of times my right side is one or 2 mm lower then the left. After turning off the printer and manually turn the z lead screw and measure it with a calliper all is fine again, but it comes back once in a while, anybody experienced this behaviour and if so did you got it fixed? If you got this fixed please share how? Setup process (not fixed yet) the complete process goes well but the Z axis calibration check at the end fails at the Z axis check. to sure why but the printer is working fine. The electronics case and cable management inside. This is a complete nightmare! Just did what the video from Fysetc shows bundled it but a tierap around the cable bundle shoved everything inside, closed the door fastened the screw. Obviously I am not happy with this solution and I cant imagine this will be good for the cooling of the Eynsie board. So one of the first things I will replace is this. For the rest it was pretty straight forward and I must say that I am again pleased with Fysetc that is fast becoming one of my favourites on Aliexpress, also because the support until now has been amazing! Anyway, Hope my pointers help other to prevent the issue I ran into! @Dombi3D I almost cant wait for you bearings review (it is a pity you did not include the IKO's but I can say from my experience they are amazing!) and maybe even more anticipating the MMU2S review as I want to wait for your experience before I start with mine. Somehow I had etc feeling that one will be hard work to get it working correctly and stable.
Nice recap of your build :) Regarding the x end idler and motor... I feel your frustation, the same problems that i had 😅 As well the Idler as the motor part had to be glued on my Printer🙈
Try the Z axis calibration with steel sheet on.
@@jan5549 Did you encounter the other issue of the right side sometimes not alining with the left by a couple of mm in hight? Regarding the glue, for now it will do is not load bearing, but when I will install the MMU2S I will replace them. Will look into a more sturdy print/infill or even change to ABS, never printed with ABS but as soon as my PRUSA enclosure is finished I will give it a try.
@@lusiada6787 Hmmmm, I think i never noticed something like that... Forgot to mention, I really like to hear when you get your MMU2S if it will work properly, i also thought about getting me one. Do you get yourself the original or the FYSETC one? Regarding your parts you like to reprint, i don't know if ABS would be the best material for your purpose. In general it should work, but PLA or even PETG tend to have better Layer Adhesion than ABS. Allthogh ABS has more Impact strength, but dont know if you need that in theese parts. If you just dont want the parts to break you could just adjust the tolerances of the CAD files of the X-Axis parts. As i mentioned in my experience i Think that would have helped a lot to bring the linear guides into the Printed parts without breaking it.
@@jan5549 Hmm, OK I will just reprint in PETG lik etc ones before and add one wall layer and increase the infill by 20%. Regarding the MMU2S I got the clone from Fysetc. There is not much info on the clone MMU2S so I am afraid I will be in for a bumpy ride, luckily Dombi3D is also preparing a video on the MMU2S clone so I will wait for that. I have seen a video on it by someone but it was a really sloppy video with almost no info, the only part I got was that you need to change the blade because the one that comes with the kit is not very good. I already received mine and it looks rather compete. One of the bags (the one with square nuts) was ripper so I had allot of square nuts at the bottom of the box and probably will miss some, but support from Fytsec has been really good until now so no worries there. As soon as I assemble mine I will let you know, but keep an eye out for Dombi3D as he will probably post something also.
2:22 yepp, my was bend 7mm to the front. it was useless. had to get a bear frame -.- 8:05 lol okay.
Hi
Hello there how I can contact you to talk more ?
You can find my contact details in my channel details.
i buy the clone and after 1 hour printing the printer cut off.The psu is dead
Have you checked prior that the wiring is tightened firmly inside the preassembled PSU? I can assume that one cable came loose and that caused the problem. Send update if you found out what was that.
Where are the cloned gummy bears?
I have just found an extra silicone sock inside the package 🙄
I can do what I want. Facebook, Aliexpress, Homepage, Forum of Fysetc.... I don´t get any response regarding to my order!!! I ordered from Spain (will be shipped from Spain) and actually it should be shipped out normally (Chinese holidays). NOTHING AT ALL! No answers, no response, no nothing!
I highly advise you trying with the igus' rjum-03 ones instead, they already have an aluminum casing, with only an extra 0.8mm on the outer diameter. Cheers! www.igus.com/product/1189 kzhead.info/sun/m7WLgZahjWdvq2g/bejne.html
This thumbnail is disgusting...