Avoid Nuisance Tripping - Converting a dual RCD consumer unit to an RCBO one. Schneider EZ9.
The Customer called me out because the RCD was tripping intermittently, however when I got there it hadn't tripped for about a week. I ran a lot of Insulation Resistance tests and couldn't find any obvious problem, but I did notice that they had a lot of electronic devices throughout the property and a lot of LED lighting, and they said it usually tripped in the evenings when they had most things running. So I recommended converting the Consumer Unit to an RCBO board as I think that earth leakage from so many devices was causing nuisance tripping. Heres the process of converting the Schneider EZ9 dual RCD consumer unit to an RCBO consumer unit. Hope you enjoy!
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Would have cut the neutral tails on the RCBO's and used ferrules to terminate. Much easier and neater, Obvioiusly leave some slack for future but it really doesn't matter where the RCBO's go on the busbar anyway.
D.J Electrical good comment thanks!
Whats ferrules ?
1000fantomas they are small metal pieces that you put over the end of the stranded wires to keep them neat
@@artisanelectrics i thought so but didnt know that terminology. So it requires some tool to do it. Could you send me a link. I do a lot of flex termination. Cheers
1000fantomas amzn.to/2HGIoGJ here’s the tool you need
Theoretically it’s best to put the loads in order largest to smallest on the busbar, the theory being that the busbar itself has an internal resistance that causes voltage drop proportional to the current. You could actually test it by activating a large load at the end of the busbar and measure the voltage between the terminal on the breaker and isolator switch.
09:10 Coffee breaks help to rethink your work (design, idea, etc). I found the job easier after "imagined" the work procedure.
Yes, absolutely cut the neutrals and functional earths - I've heard the old wives tails too, but neatly cutting them and popping a bootlace ferrule on them seems the neatest way to go. They're cheap anyway, if you have to move them in future - I don't think having to put one in the van and install another one is a big deal, you'll always reuse it on another board eventually that doesn't need the length. Even better - stick to a brand that doesn't have a functional earth and has a neutral terminal and not a tail.
I really appreciate the time you spend in all your videos to explain your thinking behind the pragmatic decisions you make in real-life interpretation of legislation and regulations. In my view you rarely get it wrong and the explanatiions you give are priceless for those learning the trade - respect !!
Thanks a lot!
This. Everyone else involuntarily edits out their hesitancy and decision process to make them look more decisive.
I installed RCBOs back in 2004, and they were double-width (one half with the line, one half with the neutral), and then I used an insulated double bus-bar with neutral and line for them so there weren't too much need for the neutral bars and then I didn't have to worry about tails either. I would say that the heaviest load shall be closest to the main switch to minimize the distance that the electricity has to travel for that unit as well as keeping the number of connection points down to a minimum, especially with a central with multiple neutral bars since each joint is a potential failure point. High current joints have a higher fault risk. A simple light bulb with a bad joint will merely flicker while a 40 amp could be a fire.
I worked offshore and used to rig a lot of seismic navigation equipment - I can fully understand and appreciate your workmanship, pride, quality - great to watch - keep them coming!!! - Cheers
Awesome thanks for the kind words!
I've been watching your and your teams videos for a while now - I look forward to them as much as I do a decent movie. We recently moved house and my Dad and I are in the process of rewiring (it's in [was] in a bad bad way) earth's used as lives, switch wires used as lives, all sockets and switches have loose terminals (wires popping out), NONE of the galvanised back boxes earthed. New consumer unit gone in. Wired up for s generator. Electronic control valves etc. Watching it being done correctly the first time and adding that 5* finish is absolute gift. Corey, for a 23/24 year old is a seriously talented electrician as are all of your team. Reading through the comments I don't personally understand the hate when you're effectively giving away free advice and great tutorials?!?! Well done guys. Major kudos and keep those videos coming 👍
Another in detail video! Apsolutely brilliant! I appreciate your videos so much cheers 😊
Love the thinking-out-loud commentary, Man
Concerning the break in the ring CPC - that is at worst a code C3. It poses no danger either currently or in the event of a fault as the broken CPC is completely capable of carring any fault current. its not 'to regs' which is why I'd put a C3, but as far as safety is concerned, not dangerous in the least, it simply functions as it would on a radial circuit. All thats required is a whizz round all the sockets on that circuit and take ZS at each just to verify that the CPC hasn't been disconnected/broken in 2 or more places, which would leave a socket (s) without a functioning earth.
Hey mate absolutely loving your content keep up the great work!
Hi Jordon, the issue with the 40A circuit breaker being placed adjacent to the isolator switch is to keep voltage drop along the busbar to a minimum. It is simple Ohm's law that, to keep voltage drop low, the busbar should be as short as possible and have the largest possible cross sectional area to keep the resistance very low. If you need to install the 40A MCB at the other end of the DIN rail, furthest from the isolator switch, the busbar cross sectional area can be increased by putting a second one on top of the existing one. Hope this helps.
Is this actually based on any science or just something you picked up out and about? Sure, Ohm's Law states that the voltage is proportional to current if the resistance is constant. But in this instance, surely the resistance could be considered so negligible across a busbar that it may be dismissed entirely? Look at the situation: you're going over a BS EN 13601 compliant busbar. The maximum volumetric resistivity for the poorest acceptable quality of BS EN 13601 compliant annealed copper is 17.24mΩ/mm²/m. Assuming the busbar is 30mm², the resistance under absolute worst-case acceptable manufacturing tolerances is 570µΩ per meter. Even if the the RCBO is all the way on the other end of a _long_ busbar (12 modules (12x18mm); 0.216m), the worst-case resistance is 123.12µΩ. The voltage drop given a constant current of 40A at a nominal single phase supply of 230V, applying Ohm's Law, is 4.924mV. Compare this to a 6A RCBO of 1.380mV. It's a *maximum of 3mV difference*. Even assuming the cable itself is a chunky 10mm², you'll lose 176mV in the first metre of the cable run anyway (BS7671 Table 4D5). So for comparison, *you'll lose 3.5mV in the first two **_centimetres_** of cable anyway.* So why give a toss about the RCBO's position on the DIN rail relating to volt drop? Possibly I'm missing something.
In theory installing the highest loads' breaker close to the main switch would reduce the resistance of the bus bar in between. But it's a really short piece of copper, so it's more a theoretical thing. But if the current is really high and the bus bar is long and thin, it may be a thing, since the voltage drop over the bus bar impedance will be higher if the respective breaker is installed close to the end rather than in the first position after the main switch (especially during the device's start, due to bus bar inductance) In this case the lights installed after the high load's breaker will flicker more, the ones installed between the high load's breaker and the main switch will flicker less.
I am glad in the US that with most all the breakers now are either GFCI or AFCI or combo of both, the new panels have plug in neutrals, so there are no tails on those breakers now, just ground into ground bar, then hot and neutral to the breaker and click into the box then next circuit. With our new 2020 NEC code most all the 240V breakers now will be GFCI as well in the panel. They have really increased the use of GFCI's over the revisions of the code here to just about all circuits. I am sure the manufactures love that. Great video, keep up the good work.
I am not a sparky, but have some knowledge of electronics. If you make a smallish loop (about 2 inches diameter) of the surplus wire, then flatten the loop so it is effectively a flat zig-zag (and tie it with thin cord), you will minimise any inductance generated in that section of surplus cable. Will make it neat to locate also.
I always double over with long nosed pliers when connecting single conductors. Crabtree starbreaker boards are sweet to fit out with miniature rcbo's and a Brucey bonus with no earth tail to connect. Pricey rcbo's but worth it, although you can get a blank board for around £80ish. :) nice video, enjoying the channel.
Videos are getting better.. Learning more.. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks!
I always cut them if the manufacturer allows it and I've always cut them anyway to make it neat and also to leave maximum space in the consumer unit and if their is a mini fire then it won't leave too much damage to other circuits at the end of the day just leave a little swoop in case of making off again 👍
My question is not related to your comment but here it is: What if there's another row above that is populated with all RCBOs, how you would you feed them from the main switch? (i wonder if an RCBO terminal can take a 25mm² conductor and a busbar tooth).
I was always told at college to put the highest value breaker to the main switchfor the dimming issue the as for bending the conductorr as per your decription as I work with tri rated stranded cable all the time I use single and twin ferrules. The brother printer is a fantastic bit of kit not long bought one does a great professional job although i doubt I will ever use it to its full potential.
Nice vid , I always take a thermos cup with me so my coffee stays warm as I often forget about it, I normally cut the leads down and bootlace ferrule them, on that consumer unit you had lots of room so space to leave long👍
Derek cross thanks for your comments!
Tidy job as usual but for me testing should be done prior to a board change/RCBO upgrade. Peace of mind that any inherent faults are identified and pointed out to customer so as to eliminate the “it was ok before you did that ! “ . Just my personal opinion. Your posts are well narrated, I like the style.
He did test it before rcbo upgrade as he could not find a fault to be causing the tripping of the rcds he says it at the start
@@asamitchell7948 30:17 No he didn't
@@paulstimpson8373 Oh yes he did
@@jeremykemp3782 Respectfully he didn't and I gave the timestamp where he explains about finding a break in the cpc from the original installation after completing the work @MizunoIronMan commented that he recommends tests BEFORE undertaking such work. Clearly he didn't test before as he would have found the fault!!
👍enjoyed video..diyers always appreciate professionals on utube.
Nice video. I don't think I would have left all that slack on the functional earth's and the neutrals especially right next to the busbar. I don't see any problem with cutting them. Also I fitted one of those schneider boards once and thought they were poorly designed. Loads of space below the breakers where you dont need it and not a lot above.
Cool, this is exactly what I wanted to find out about. Got to isolate an electric garage door from everything else so it doesn't jam shut if there's a fault with another circuit, but the board is dual RCD, so I need to convert it to RCBO use :-)
Always cut the neutrals to a sensible length. Load of neutrals snaked up together not good design practice either.
Good feedback thanks
Great to see this, thanks for the info
Great vid, thanks! I’m future rather than trying to measure one mcb/rcbo you can measure the whole stack and devise the length by the total number on the din rail, guaranteeing the correct spacing for the labels.
Thanks
I really like your vedeos, in im one of your channel supporters, because Im also an Industrial Electrician, and im also familiar in control and BMS system, but Im just working as Electrical Labourer as issued to me by ECS, and Im happy if I worked in Electrical Installation, That why im always watching your channel for some advancement.
Thanks!
A while ago I had trouble determining a fault on a ring main tripping an rcd on a split board...only to find a faulty freezer being fed by a single pole power point. Unplug the freezer and happy days...only having to persuade the house owner to replace the ancient freezer.
Cut the neutral for the longest you would need (farthest from switch) and make them all same. I prefer the type of RCBO that do not require the functional earth as that makes testing a pain. By the way, I like the format of your video. So many show everything in real time..... Tedious. Keep it up!
devonfuse great comment thanks!
Interesting. I'd deffo have to cut those cream FEs (now pink!) and then use your method of Wago as it's just no problem to extend your new earth conductor if needed. Also, I believe Schneider do the full length neutral bar to replace the split one.
I also do the same thing with the functional earths, put them all in wagos or a DIN connector block with a fly lead to the earth bar, or put them all in a spare earth terminal or two in the earth bar. No need to put them with corresponding circuit earth.
lovely stuff.. yea I have my 7671 L3 and just about to take the 5th edition IET's 5th edition of In Service Test and Inspection.. up to this point in time I had not heard of leakage from modern devices but then I am no practicing electrician... think the 18th edition students may be more appraised of such things.
If you're worried about length on the neutral tails you only need leave enough to neatly span from the say the left end of the din rail to the neutral bar on the right side of the board or vice versa. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Yes, could he have just used the one neutral bar on either side?
1 thing.....Ferrules 526.9 Connection of multiwire, fine wire and very fine wire conductors 526.9.1 In order to avoid inappropriate separation or spreading of individual wires of multiwire, fine wire or very fine wire conductors, suitable terminals shall be used or the conductor ends shall be suitably treated.
Great find in the regs thanks!
Hi Jordan I’m always chewing on a screwdriver when working. No to coffee Yes to tea Who makes your screwdrivers- like the blue colour, it makes a change. Good video 👍
Thanks for the comments! Join the #HagerGang and they give you free screwdrivers if you win their installer of the week/month competitions, I’ve got two now!
Are they torque screwdrivers????
Certainly looks neat. Great job. In my mind however, there's a few challenges with the end result. Most of them have been adressed with your elaborate explanation. Two still remain however: Are you even allowed (by regs) to use Wago's or other non-fixed, non-manufacturer supplied connector blocks _inside_ the board housing? To me that's a serious no-no. Similarly: connecting up this amount of RCBO's directly next to one-another potentially creates heat management issues in the board and effectively reduces the maximum load a breaker is allowed to carry. This is due to the heat development inside the board which affects the thermal tripping characteristics of the breaker. Curious to hear your thoughts on this.
Can you show the testing device. Do you have another video that talks in detail how to test the rcbos
I always trim the RCBOs tails to length just for tidiness. Remake and double my ends but not on rings i don’t double them . Regarding the coffee same only take a proper break if the jobs going unexpectedly well 🤟
Sausagetoes001 Mr Lee great comment thanks!
Does RCBO detect arc-fault, ground-fault, or both. Curious. I’m on the other side of the ‘pond’ with different terminology, and 120v/240v panels for residential. Also, curious about 3-phase voltage. I’m familiar with 480v 3-phase.
Unbelievable... Jordan doesn't blink😎✌️
As a self employed sparks like yourself wait till it's cool and down it goes. Nice vid bud
Yeah that’s the way! 😂
I started fitting functional earths with the respective earthing conductors and recently find it easier to put them all together in a spare position on the earth bar. I can’t see any difference in the order of the RCBO’s; the voltage drop across the heavy gauge bus bars will be negligible. I don’t cut the RCBO neutrals as they would need a ferrule and that would seem very fiddly. Like you, I drink coffee on the go and prefer to get home and get the paper work out of the way. I see that you test your RCBO’s at the CU which is much easier than doing it st a Socket or light fitting - I’ll be adopting your methodology here as it saves a lot of leg work. I’m replacing a fuse box with RCBO’s tomorrow (oops, today) - I never fit anything else now.
Richard Wallace great comments thanks!
Concerning the slack on neutral tails in this case a domestic consumer unit I just cut them long enough to reach any neutral terminal in the unit. I've done the same in commercial TP&N boards.
Good plan!
Silly question, did the original installer put the cover on upside down
The reason the caution on trimming the neutral tails came about, is because the wire is fine stranded. You may, and SHOULD, remove excess tail, but use a crimp ferule to dress the fine stranded wire end. With the ferule, you have no concern about the stranded wire shifting under the pressure of the terminal.
Thanks good comment
I prefer to use NHP MOD6. The RCBO only requires top and bottom connections and they supply a busbar that does the job nicely. Looks much neater.
A properly informative video and narration. Well done and thank you.
MA1973 thanks!
Hi. Just watched this in 23. If installing a new board, 4 bedroom detached, what new boards are out there for an upgrade. Thanks
I also shorten RCBO neutral cables for neatness and use ferrule crimps
Great job again
Donnie Robertson thanks!
Jordan, At 19:16: Would have been good to see the unique 'doubling' of the stripped copper termination - ? was the bent part spiralled back round the straight length closest to the insulation? Unusual termination, I've not seen that method used
Excellent talk through of your thought processes and decision making Jordan. And I appreciate your honesty about not knowing everything (who does, really?). I carry a vernier caliper in my main toolbag for precise measurements like width of breakers, though tend to find 17.9mm or 18.0mm works well enough for most of them. Vernier caliper is also useful for determining/confirming cable cross sectional area - I use the equation (D/2) ^2 * π * 7 a lot for that purpose.
Nick Elks great comments thanks!
Why x 7 at the end...? The area of a circle (cross section of a cable or wire) is just Pie x R^2 (or as you say pie x (d/2)^2 as with calipers you measure the diameter not the radius) 7 stands?
Surprising to see such a nice board in a new build. Unless it is an exec home.
Yeah it’s a pretty posh house.
I've got a friend who recently went self employed and seems pretty friendly with a builder of small developments of exec homes. He puts some serious high end kit into them.
did you just do the RCD test at the board or at the end of circuit?
Down and van my coffee breaks....depends. sometimes it helps to stop for 5 to 10 min 👌
I'm always amazed by the designers of electrical kit. Why is the such a massive gap between the rcbo's and the bottom of the board, and the lives are squashed up against the earth's?
Yeah badly designed more often than not!
Hi, Interesting video. Couple of points: plastic blanks aren't allowed now are they? (those you used looked plastic?). And ferrules - no good on solid cable? Only for use on stranded.
Hi, thanks for your comments. The need for metal blanks is a myth, the flappy lid of the consumer unit is metal and will prevent the spread of fire. Ferrules you’re absolutely right they are only for fine stranded cable not solid.
I once left the 40amp to last and did get voltage drop on lightning circuit not a very happy chappy
The right thing to do not sure? I think you should be sure and also comply to manufacturers instructions!
where do you buy your labels from the ones you use to identify the circuits on the consumer labels
I think it would have been better to purchase and install a full length busbar.
Yeah would have been ideal but I had a quick turnaround on this job couldn’t order in a new Schneider busbar in time
Hello Pal. Im Interested in Finding out What Model is that Brother Labelling Machine ? Im Looking one the same
I think I would have been wanting to know the source of the earth leakage, maybe even suggest PAT testing the customers equipment, but saying that my star signs a question mark so have a need to know 1.3amp DC seems noticeable, otherwise good job :)
Hey Jordan, I’m from Aus. We are allowed a maximum of 3 MCBS on an RCD. I pretty much only install RCBO’s in new installs. Means tripping doesn’t effect whole installation. Do you have a regulation on that? Also you said there were heaps of PowerPoints on a circuit. Do you have a guideline for max PowerPoints on a circuit? Good to see how you do it over there. Very similar.
yes, the poms do weird things like ring circuits and having only one RCD for the whole house. not to mention the way they have different earths.
What is your opinion on torx screwdrivers?
Hey Jordon, could you have just used the one neutral bar on either side? Thanks Jeremy
My understanding is that you can install any rating breaker in any sequence the load is still shared.
I usually use 17.5mm on the brother printer and works a treat, even though they're 18mm wide, or supposed to be.
Yeah it’s a bit of an art getting it just right!
PETER WILSON good tip thanks!
@@artisanelectrics What - learn your 12x table? Maybe 21x table or more with Fusebox brand.
Nice job, you could have just charged for a new consumer unit but honest as always you put the customer first 🙏 fantastic
Thanks
I personally leave the neutrals the length they are and try to put them as neat as possible. I also correspond each earth lead with each cpc in the earth bar,it then makes it easier to remove or replace if needed and to locate.
I also definitely wouldn’t double up the bus bars. Rcbos are the way forward 👍🏻 Good videos, I’m enjoying your content. Also I would of taken off the grey sheathing on the 16mm neutral so it was blue,doesn’t need to be on there as enclosed and I think would just look better as a blue neutral rather than grey-just my option tho obviously not a criticism. Also coffee breaks-I used to work through without stopping but try to stop now especially when I work at a school we have breaks, but that’s day rate ha ha. Always double up single cables,never for two in a mcb/rcbo I also fit heaviest Amperage first, but it really doesn’t matter, I just do it out of habit, doesn’t make any difference which way you do it
Thanks great comments!
I would have gone with type A rcd. Cut the neutrals back. Two items I think you should always say in your videos 1. Demonstrate safe isolation etc lock the main breakers off ....what if you did go to van for a coffee. ?? 2.Would also mention that you did initial verification that all bonding is present and therefore was safe to continue with live testing. 3. You test rcd at board pointless test imho the rcd is to protect the cct you should test at far plug socket or end of a lighting cct. Apart from that keep up the good work.
Putting the heavy loads next to main switch is just custom an practice, would the busbar in reality present such a high impedance to cause a volt drop sufficient to dim a lamp? Perhaps 60 or 70 years ago with incandescent lamps and poor supply system voltage regulation it might have been an issue with the fuse boxes at the time
I always follow manufacturers advice on rcbos if it's OK to cut N wires then dress them so you can move anywhere on the busbar. I don't do coffee breaks unless a client offers. Even then I feel like they're paying me to drink coffee lol.
muzikman2008 good comments thanks
Not a sparks y trade, electronics and Cctv, I agree with some of the comments with shortening the neutrals to keep it tidy and the the white earths. The wago connectors are German made and pronounced vago. Cool videos and learning
Thanks!
0448178 radionics do a label remover I use to get sticker on the tills, very good stuff. Spray it on and leave for 5 minutes and then it just falls of, that’s the stock code at the start 👍🇮🇪
I always put the highest mcb or rcbos at the end
Just a thought, I hope none of the many Sparks you converse with via Twitter never test that property, you'd be slated for the way the neutrals have been linked and busbar extended Best practice as regards the positioning of devices to not to place all heavily loaded circuits together, but try and space them with lesser loaded circuits such as lights etc. Many MF instructions actually state this.
Thanks for the feedback. How would you have done it?
It’s always been normal practice to load the biggest mcbs closest to the main switch but obviously it’s irrelevant as if that was true you would need a buss bar that was thicker at one end with a thicker pin to go into the main switch terminal.
It is fun to see how different countries come up with regulations about what is a safe consumer unit. And then come up with completely different design. Also we have star circuits, not ring circuits.
Well cause there is a big yellow sticker reminding you to cut the tails, you should at least half the length. I'm pretty sure Schneider are right.
I've always cut the neutrals and functional earths on RCBOs then re-crimped with un-insulated bootlace ferrules. I'm not sure commoning four functional earths together is a good idea as it introduces a single point of failure at the earth bar for those four circuits.
Thanks for the feedback yeah I know what you mean
but the earth bar already has a single point of failure for literally every circuit, where the incoming cpc connects.
When doing this, do you make customers aware that each RBCO is using around 1watt? Customers in general wouldn't expect this. In the example in this video, looking at a running cost of £13 - £16 per year. What's your general thoughts on whether to inform customers of this or not? Love the videos, thanks.
Mike Foley I had no idea RCBOs consumed electricity thanks for the heads up!
@@artisanelectrics Approx 1 Watt each RCBO I understand, presumably there is variation between manufacturers. Would be interesting to know.
That is a very good point, but bear in mind many MCBs have just as high a dissipation so it affects all customers, not just those choosing RCBOs. However, in both cases the figures quoted are only at maximum rated load. Most of the time they are using far less. It does occur to me that all packed tightly together they could cause quite a temperature rise - just like a reeled up extension flex.
Someone has watched big Clive
DIN rail breakers look arcane these days. All load panels I see here are plug in types. Much easier particularly as most panels are 3 phase (due to air con demand)
Hi yeah great / is that board live by any chance
Great video
Thanks!
I note on old wiring you do not sleeve (brown on red, blue on black), latest regs do say if consistent no need, but I still do out of habit from the previous 17th Regs. Yes, lots of bodges are found the best was by an IEC etc approved guy on an alleged "rectification", the pull switch isolator for a shower (8.5kW on 6mm2 cable! served by 32A MCB! CU still above a door so not readily accessible or safe to access (they just took off the door!!!!)) was in Zone 1 150mm from the shower unit, when pulled you got soaked; naturally the shower was u/s; the biggest danger was the risk of falling over laughing!), and adding connectors instead of earthing as you go seems a little less than 100% sure, not allowed in aircraft. Indeed, bunched overlong wires cause our old "mate" Eddie Current to lark about, and is not allowed due induction heating loops in cables generally (recall your H&S lecture to unreel extension cables before use, & Maxwell's Corkscrew Rule magntic problems, etc.), shortest has least resistance so least V-drop so much preferred too. White earth of this type is not far unlike USA (in many helicopters most of the cables are white so meter faith essential). I would never leave a busbar where in the event of the CU face blank falling out a nosey finger could touch it, this is against regs. It is bus not buzz (as stems/derived from omnibus/carrier). The bending of exposed wire ends has also the value of if the terminals work loose they do not so easily come out, but with heavier (2.5) cable and > 1 in each terminal hole it causes complications. If Schneider say 'cut to length' that you do, the regs do say do 'to the maker's instructions'. I always put heaviest units nearest switch, but being Jewish (I do not ask why I cannot gnaw on pigs, I just don't, discipline/obedience) do it because my RE instructor at the RSME said so, but being good he did explain for the ones less able to just do as told (like a RCS guy on an electronics course I was on, only one who fried a meter and kept asking me to ask questions for him since I outranked him; I need not say what my reply was! (since Hitler never liked corporals)) and I forgot what my earliest civilian trade instructor said as a teenager because we then still had fuses, metal conduits and trunking and separate cables/wires, and were mostly on industrial 3-phase and over half a century ago; and we then still did power-factor corrections to motors with suitable capacitors (long out of the curiculum?). I tend to test existing circuits before adding a new CU as otherwise continue the errors. In fact, I test as I go; probably an Army thing as ex-RAF guys tend not to and at least one gives me a lot of work correcting his bodges. You guessed it, wrong side of 71, still slaving away!
Thanks for your comments!
Alan Rose "
Great video :) 👌👌👌
Thanks a lot
Why didn't you position the RCBOs next to the original labels? It would have saved messing about printing new labels.
Aren't the RCBO's and Breakers a standard width of 18mm. RCD's (double width) being 36mm. Isn't it one of the things that you learn at Electrical training.
Hi what size earth wire did you have to use from the wago to the earth bar.
greg davies just used 1mm it doesn’t need much just a reference to earth there’s no load
It's a good idea
Is the main Earth bar linked to the Neutral bar for the RCBO connection?
No
My first 25 years on big sites we had 20 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes for dinner,then about the year 2000 we had to physically clock in and out on site
Measure multiple breakers and then divide by that number to get a more accurate single breaker length. I.e. ten breakers divide by ten.
I don’t care about holding screwdriver on the mouth or coffee & lunch break but will take time and care to complete the work neatly, safely and satisfying that’ll!
Here is a tip to get your printer labels the correct size: measure the total length from first to last RCBO and then device the result by the number of RCBO’s - it will be more accurate as a half MM error this way will transpose to an error of 0.5 MM divided by the number of RCBO’s.
Richard Wallace Good tip!
While carrying out a board change or installing a new board on a rewire, I almost always have a coffee with me. A flask in the winter is good as it's often dark and cold so it helps you keep going.
Yeah def needed on cold days!
It's certainly true that voltage drop and resistance exist, all conductors have a given impedance even if it's in the range of milliohms. To what extent across a busbar? Well, load up the CU and measure the P.D across the length of the busbar between the main switch and the far end of the busbar. Then you'll know. Re: neutral tails: impedance was the first thing that sprang to mind here. You've got a length of conductor bunched up in a thermally constrained metal box, and an unknown amount of heat being generated across the length of said neutral tail when the circuit is under load. How much heat? Well, enough for the manufacturer to warn against leaving excessively long neutral tails in the CU and suggest cutting them to length. It would be interesting to get a FLIR camera on the CU once it has been closed up and placed under load for a while (shower / cooker on etc) to see the effects of voltage drop and resultant heat across the busbar and neutral tails. It would be especially interesting to see the thermals where your sections of busbar join up along the way with that 40A circuit under load. Thinking about it... I wonder if / when British safety standards will change to include some kind of thermal cutout in CUs? I'm imagining some kind of main switch with 60C ambient temperature cut out or similar. This would show up thermal issues long before they progress to melty moments or catastrophic failures.
Did you find out what was the earth fault on the ring circuit.