Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 - Why Photograph wildlife at f5.6
This review highlights that contrary to many people’s views, the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E VR is sharp at wide open at f5.6, and there's no need to use a smaller aperture like f8 or f11 to capture sharp wildlife images, unless you are specifically trying to get more of your image in focus. This review also shows very clearly the side effects of using an aperture of f8 or f11 on the Depth of Field (DOF) of your image has well has the problems that this causes with an increased ISO setting.
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This review links in with blog post I have published on my website in relation with photographing wildlife with the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E VR at f5.6, f8 and f11.
bit.ly/3k3ec9u
Video Time-line
00:00 Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 - Why Photograph wildlife at f5.6
00:09 Introduction what aperture setting to use for wildlife (Birds) photography
02:21 Great Egret taken at; f5.6, f8, f11 and differences in Depth of Field
06:01 Water Dragon taken at; f5.6, f8, f11 and differences in DOF
07:42 Kookaburra taken at; f5.6, f8, f11 and differences in DOF Field
10:34 Discussing why f8 or f11 would be better for certain types of wildlife
11:28 Grey Teals taken at; f5.6, f8, f11 and differences in DOF
13:03 Final thoughts
Social media Links!
Facebook: bit.ly/39TcPEO
Website: bit.ly/37LLVgz
Flickr: bit.ly/3bYoHXE
Gear used during this video:
Vanguard Altra 264AP Tripod
Samsung Galaxy S10
Filmic Pro App: bit.ly/3bsKN3i
BOYA BY-WM4 Mark II 2.4G Wireless Microphone
Lume Cube for fill lighting
FlashBack Recorder used has a screen recorder
Editing Software used:
Video editing: Cyberlink PowerDirector 19
Greetings from the other side of the world, Northern Ireland. I've been working my my way through your videos, and I am picking up some tips. Clear and consise. Thanks again, Charles. John.
Wonderful! Thank you very much for letting me know that you've found value in my Photography Tutorials. 🙏
I use the same lens on Nikon Z6ii and Z5 cameras. Like you, I prefer f5.6 and shutter speeds of 1/800, 1/1000, and 1/2000, depending on the amount of movement or action. My ISO will, of course, increase proportionally. I am glad that you showed a close-up because that's really my proof of an acceptable photograph. I agree with you about f5.6 for pleasing separation. Thank you for your helpful suggestions and supporting images.
Thank you very much for sharing your views on my video, very much appreciated 🙏
Your explanation makes so much sense to me! Thank you!
You're so welcome!
You say things perfect and its easy to understand. Thanks 🙏
Thank you very much, I try to keep what I explain as simple as possible so that everyone can understand what I'm talking about. 🙏
Hi Charles, great video. I used this technique when photographing some Osprey's on Friday. In the late afternoon and falling sunlight, I was able to get some really crisp shots at f/5.6 using my old Nikkor 75-300 f/4.5-5.6
Thank you very much Wes, glad that this video has helped you and thanks for commenting
Great video, good tips. I almost always shoot with the lens wide open for less noise and blurrier background unless I want to have more things in focus.
YEs, and this is my main reason for shooting wide open as well. But you'll get some people telling you that you should shoot at f8 without doing any research/tests themselves
I have really enjoyed following your videos. I just added the D500 to my collection (d90 and d7200) largely for the 10 fps. Haven’t even able to do much with it yet as the temps her in FL at this time of year are nearly unbearable. Thanks for your time to share your experience and advice. Regards, Gene
Thank you for watching my videos, it's very much appreciated. 🙏
am learning so much with you thank you
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your comment.
Great video, thanks Charles
Glad you enjoyed it
I've just purchased a Nikon D500, Charles, and I shall obtain a Nikkor 200-500 f/5·6 shortly. I am really appreciative of your excellent advice on shooting wildlife through this combination and I can't wait to get started in putting that advice into practice. Thank you.
Thank you very much for watching my videos and letting me now that you like them. Very much appreciated
New Subscribers From France 🇫🇷 .. nice Explanation 😊
Welcome to my channel and thanks for the sub! 🙏
Very informative video 👍
Thank you for commenting and watching this video
Very helpful! Thanks! Greetings from Germany.
You're welcome and thanks for your comment
quite well explained
Thank you very much for watching and commenting on this video, much appreciated
Charles this has given a good start to using my lens
Thank you, and glad that I was able to help you out
Nice video, Greetings from Italy. Like n.5
Thank you very much!
I recently purchased this lens , great tips , thank you ! I was using F8 , and getting blended backgrounds and noise , also finding that the images were not as sharp as I'd hoped . going to f5.6 ! Thank You for posting .
Glad it helped! and thanks for sharing your thoughts, much appreeciated
@@CharlesNPhotography I actually went out ,tried F5.6 and the results were instantly much better .
Glad to hear That. Mind you when I posted this video on Facebook many disagreed with me without ever trying it for themselves. They'll tell you the corners are soft. Well that may be the case, but I don't look at the corners, as I'm not shooting Landscapes, I'm shooting wildlife and just want the center of the photo sharp.
@@CharlesNPhotography Makes total sense to me !
I use my 200-500 at max aperture 99% of the time unless I need more reach and I use the 1.4tciii. Then it is an f8 lens. Another issue with that is that your auto focus will slow down and in the d500 you can only use your center focus point. Which is what I use 90% of the time anyway.
Thank you for confirming that other photographers have the same philosophy has me.
A Great lens, for wildlife works brilliant with the Nikon D500.
It certainly is a great lens Paul and so affordable for wildlife photography. Please consider subscribing to my channel if you haven't do so yet.
Nikon D500 & Nikon 200-500 it’s a great marriage 📸
It's a marriage made in heaven 😃
Thx mate. GR8 video. I am adjusting from macro photography to birding photography. I have being a birder for about 23.5 years in Africa but never did any bird photography. I now reside in NZ fore the past 13 years. I have a Nikon D7100 and plan to buy the Nikon 200-500mm. Looked at the Tamron 150-600. Not my preference. Doesn't seem to be a true 600mm, more a 560mm. I think I might have to upgrade my 7100 to 7500. I looked at the D500 but it's price has gone up lately. Too steep for my budget. just spent $3200 on new Leica and Vortex binocs. I have a Tamron 90mm macro which I love, a hell of a lot because of it's brilliant Bokeh and macro. Nifty 50, 16-85mm and a couple more. The 200-500 will be my first birding lens. Which DX body would you suggest for this lens or do you think my D7100 IS GOOD FOR THE JOB????
Although the D7100 is a good camera, I'd look at the D7200 if your budget can stretch as the auto-focus is much better in that camera
I think that maybe I need to review My thinking on aperture.
Yes Mike, many people think that way has well. This is why I did this video.
Thank you for your tutorial and information. Everything you say makes a lot of sense. Do you hand hold the lens or do you use a monopod or tripod? Your polints are very well taken and appreciated. 🙏 😊 📸 🤩 👍
Thank you for your comments, and yes! I hand-hold the lens 90% of the time. I sometimes use a monopod, but find it annoying if I've got to get down low quickly. And I only use the lens on a tripod when I stationary like photographing Ospreys near my home.
Instablaster
@@maverickmoshe7457, Please clarify. TY
sorry might be a dumb question but is that a left handed Nikon in your video ? really enjoy your videos thanks
No! I hadn't realised that my video camera had flipped the video.
@@CharlesNPhotography thanks for reply. i shoot d7500 with older af-s 70-300 for my birds in back yard not perfect but it works. working on getting the 200-500mm nikon. thanks again fr Canada
Sir... brilliant video... thanks for your advice...I have D7200... Planning to get a telephoto lens.... Cannot decide which is the right lens for me...Tamron 150-600mm or Nikon 200-500mm.... Maybe Tammy won't be as sharp as Nikky here....but Tammy has more reach...that extra 100mm... What do you have to say to that, Sir. ?? Thanks in advance..
YEs the Tamron 150-600mm has more reach, but the Nikon 200-500mm is sharper
@@CharlesNPhotography I also find that even though the Tamron is a 600mm, it doesn't really seem to have that much more reach, I have noticed this with a few other Tamrons as well.
@@450gguy Carl, I've heard this from a few people in regards to the Tamron and Sigma 150-600mm. One person on Flick commented that he'd trying the Sigma Contemporary against the Sports version and found the Sports version to have a slightly longer reach which shouldn't be the case as they're both 150-600mm
I just bought the same Lens after I watched your review. Thanks for the nice review. BTW I have an issue with rotating the Lens Collar. I can rotate clockwise for portrait but I cannot rotate back anti-clockwise for landscape. I have to rotate the rest 270 degree to get back to landscape position. Basically I can rotate only one direction, I can feel something is preventing to rotate opposite direction. Does your Lens has the same issue? Please let me know if easy for you to help me.
Thank you for your comments. the collar has to be fairly lose to rotate both directions. It rotates easily clockwise, but to rotate it anti-clockwise it feels like there's a stop there, but a bit of pressure moves it past this point.
Thanks a lot for reply and letting me know how to fix my issue. I did it as the way you said and it works. Thanks again and appreciate. 👍
You're welcome, glad I was able help you out
One idea Sean, I have the same lens also and the collar really got my back up so I bought the replacement collar from Kirk NC-200-500 V2, it is just brilliant but a little pricey, in my opinion it is worth it though.
I also shoot mostly at f/5.6 but when a bird is looking at me or looking behind then I have to go up to f/7.1 for greater depth of field
I am tempted sometimes, but just leave it at F5.6 unless there's a group of birds together and they're very close together.
Hello Charles. My apologies if I am asking something that you stated in the video that I may have missed. Do you typically shoot in aperture priority mode, or manual mode?
Hi Jim, my apologies for not replying earlier, but I've just noticed your question. For Landscape Photography I shoot 70% of the time in Manual Mode and the rest in Aperture Priority. For Wildlife, I use to shoot in Shutter Priority, but these days shoot in Manual Mode and Auto-ISO, so I set my Aperture and Shutter Speed to suit what I'm targeting and then let the camera adjust the ISO accordingly
@@CharlesNPhotography thank you sir. Recently upgraded from a D7500 to a D500 , using a 200-500 for birds/wildlife and was curious as to what you were doing. Thanks again.
@@CharlesNPhotography thank you!
People always say lenses are sharper stopped down. But my bridge camera lens and my two most used m43 lenses seem just as sharp at their lowest aperture. I've scrutinised photos and any extra sharpness or lack of it just doesn't show to my eyes. Maybe I'm wrong but luckily I can't see it 😀
Some users say that ther 200-500mm is best at f8, but I've fund no difference. I may be a lucky user.
@@CharlesNPhotography I use my 100-300mm panasonic at 300mm 5.6 and backing off a bit or using a higher aperture just doesn't to be noticeably sharper to me. Maybe the difference is very subtle but if you can't see it you can't see it.
Do you keep ur iso on auto.
For wildlife photography I use auto-iso and set the range from iso100 > iso 2500
What about the Tamron 150-600 G2? Any users here?
I tried it before buying the Nikon 200-500mm f5.6, but found it a bit soft at 600mm. Also at more than 450mm you are shooting at f6.3 instead of f5.6 for the Nikon
Which Lens is much better NIKKOR AF-S 200-500MM F/5.6E ED VR Or Sigma 150-600mm lens
I had tested the Sigma 150>600mm lens and found that after 450mm the images got a bit soft and by the time I got to 600mm the image wasn't has sharp as the images from the Nikon 200-500mm f5.6.
@@CharlesNPhotography if I will use 2x teleconverter to Nikon 200-500 mm, will it work good ? Or What ? Any suggestions on this topic?
@@ganngamtangjang5797 You will not be able to use auto-focus. look at this Nikon Link. cdn-5.nikon-cdn.com/Assets/Common-Assets/Images/Teleconverter-Compatibility/EN_Comp_chart.html
@@CharlesNPhotography Thank you so much sir 🙏
@@ganngamtangjang5797 It's probably better to get a higher megapixel camera than using a teleconverter. In low light conditions (golden hours) teleconverters fail miserably, AF is slow and the image quality degrades as well. With a higher MP camera, you can crop in a perfectly focused image and it still looks better than the one taken with the teleconverter. Spend your $500 (price of a Canon teleconverter) on your camera upgrade. I'm waiting for the high MP APS-C Canon camera coming out Q2 2021 (based on rumor).
how to fine tune nikon 200-500mmlens with nikon d500
I am in the process of dong this tutorial and I'm hoping that I'll have it done in the next week or so.
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The image stabilizer on his camera must be working on O V E R D R I V E
Great video though
Brandon, I've had my Nikon 200-500mm lens recently checked out by Nikon and mentioned to them that I use the VR is Sports Mode at all times unless the lens is on a tripod and they told me that it doesn't matter what VR mode I use. The lens is designed to be used by either of these modes.
Thank you
to confirm if that one lens is as sharp at f5.6 as it is slightly stopped down would make for an interesting lab test. Sharpness is subjective and looking at some of your images also in other videos I would say that some of the images that you call 'sharp' i would delete from quality perspective , but than again, subjective stuff. Sharpness has the "physical" quality to it that can be measured and then perceptual quality, meaning that added depth of field when looking at an image makes it appear sharper to the observer, as there is more of sharp depth to it, regardless the change in detail resolving power. Vast vast majority of lenses benefit from slight stop down. If you choose your backgrounds more carefully, if you get to the eye level of the birds (like that heron seems you are either too far or too high), you should be able to blur the backgrounds nicely. The telephoto compression helps too. If you are concerned about going f7.1 due to background separation, you probably have the wrong composition anyway. People are getting award winning photos w m43 systems . If you are concerned about 1 stop of higher noise, drop the damn shutter speed. There's few situations, such as professional sports, when you cannot do so. I have shots of heron at 1/15th of a sec at 500mm, 1/10th at 700mm w TC and we are talking DX crop of the d500 on top of that. Heron battling a caught fish at 1/80 etc. There's usually SO much space to work with in order to achieve better photo quality. No need to shoot non-action at action-like shutter speeds. Lastly when photographing animals with beaks, larger faces, being close to subjects, it is often benefitial to stop down a bit. The difference is still slight (a heron's head at f13 won't be fully focused turned at you if standing close) but it leaves an impression of much sharper image. PS:if someone in the comments doesn't feel the need to stop down even with TC attached, their opinion is as relevant as my cooking advice.
All I can say is that you're judging image quality from a video, which isn't very reliable. Secondly good luck at shooting birds at 1/15sec @ 500mm. You're entitled to make all the recommendation that you like! But you're making presumptions about how I should take photos (not low enough, to far) without know why I didn't take the photo low or why I was that far. But remember my channel is about helping out people new to the hobby and Not Teaching Professional Photographers who Know It All How To Take Photos.
Do you keep ur iso on auto.
my apologies for not replying earlier, but I've just noticed your question. I only use Auto-ISO when I photographing wildlife