How to Restore Cracked Vinyl Dashboard - Spray Texture Coating!
First attempt at fixing a cracked dash: • How to Restore/Fix/Rep...
Second and successful dash repair: • Part 2: How to Restore...
Comparison of the two, after testing: • What is the Best Way t...
How to Remove 1980's Toyota Pickup/4Runner Dash Pad Cover: • How to: Remove 1980's ...
This is my second attempt on restoring an old cracked dash from a 1987 Toyota Pickup
This time I'm using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl, brush-on contact cement, and vinyl paint in the following order:
- grind the cracks into a V groove with a dremel
- fill cracks with spray foam
- fill pinholes and final leveling with bondo
- sand smooth
- enlarge vent openings
- apply adhesive to vinyl and dash & wrap vinyl over dash
- trim excess vinyl
- paint to match factory grey
Products used (some may be found cheaper @ local hardware stores)
Dremel 25 pc kit: amzn.to/3g0dWs3
or cheaper generic Dremel: amzn.to/3v0w1dK
Spreaders: amzn.to/3ptttUi
Dupli-Color Grease & Wax Remover: amzn.to/3OLzrxL
Dupli-Color Charcoal Grey Vinyl & Fabric Paint: amzn.to/3EWm1Jc
Door & Window Spray Foam: amzn.to/3I1UbxE
Coping Saw: amzn.to/3I0VBbB
Body Filler Cheesegrater File: amzn.to/3OHOR6d
Meguiars E-7200 sanding block backing pad: amzn.to/3EUotPo
3M Wetordry Sponge Pad #20: amzn.to/3ykdOv7
Rubber Sanding Block: amzn.to/3kr2HtW
80 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/3SZLDwn
80 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXABuC
USC Kromate Light Body Filler: amzn.to/3Ly1vkM
Dupli-Color DAP1694 Sandable Primer: amzn.to/4bD11XF
If this looks like too much work, there are also Dash Caps available:
1979 -1983 Toyota Pickup without Side Defrost Vents: amzn.to/3uWu2Y1
1984-1986 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (long recessed area across dash top) amzn.to/3fTvCFM
1987-1988 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (smaller curved rectangle area on dash top) ebay.us/PVU7qd
1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: amzn.to/2T5rIkh
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations but you can support the channel with some rad gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.com/merchandise/
Used OEM Toyota parts for sale from my collection: 6thgeargarage.com/yota/
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Good Video. Impressed. Couple friendly tips. Before sprayfoaming. Back mask all areas about an 1/8 or 1/16 from the edge with tape (about n inch wide tape) Then tape over the foaming area from side to side with a 2" wide piece of tape. Covering all repair areas. this forms a slight dome for the foam to push against to force it into the other foam for you instead of a spreader. It also gives you a surface to press on to push it in more flush like you were doing once it started solidifying. With less mess. This is how i've been doing it and it saves a ton of shaping time and gets good penetration into the old foam and vinyl edging.. Just thought I'd throw it out there for you. 😉👍👍👍
Great idea…. Thanks!
defini tely a big fan of 80's style and engineering. Simple, efficient, comfortable to maintain blocky and flat yet stylish.
Same, the 80's an 90's are my favorite era of vehicles. Very different styling between the two, but both are the last decades before vehicles lost their simplicity and became overloaded with electronics.
Everyone just keeps getting better! This one definitely seems the best so far just needed slightly more sanding
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
@@6thGearGarage there is nothing stopping you from sanding further at this stage. Just be sure to Wet sand it , you will get better results . Let it dry and reapply your colour.
@@wirefeed3419 I'm going to see if it holds up in the heat/cold test first. If it cracks, I will sand it down and try some other products.
Hey mate your the person who gave me hope and let me finish my restoration of my 1st gen surf. You make it very easy to follow with great quality . Dash will be next
Great to hear! Let’s see how this one holds up… 👍
I've seen this done several times and fiberglass and resin filled cloth is also used to cover the dash. I can't remember anyone trying to simulate vinyl for the reason of texturing, it's just a look that is usually liked. Bed liner is used quite often. I think your dash looks great.
Great video ! I never would have thought to try this kind of repair, but now I have the confidence to give it a try. Thanks very much!
If I can do it, then you can do it!
Man, this brings back memories. In the late 80's and early 90's we used the spatter paint and "lace" paint on our dashes and doors to match the over-the-top tweed interior fabrics. Nice work
I remember that style and liked it. Mini trucks are starting to make a comeback, maybe we'll see that again soon!
VHT wrinkle plus works good, mainly used on valve covers so its good for heat. We built a new dash bezel out of steel for my friends 66 Beaumont 10 years ago, still looks great and nobody can tell. I also refinished my older BBQ with it, im happy with how it turned out
Wrinkle plus is great. I use it on a lot of small parts around the engine just makes the engine bay pop!
I have used the wrinkle finish on a valve cover before and it’s a great product. Great idea for a dash, thanks!
Great work. For trimming foam try using a metal hacksaw blade without any kind of handle. It should contour well on flat areas.
I'll do a little more sanding on texture for my project but u still got a beautiful job done.
You can reduce truck bed coatings like raptor liner and spray it through a gun with a 2.0 tip. If you play around with the air pressure you could get close to an oe texture. It also uses a hardener so it would be more durable.
That looks amazing!!! You did a great job
Thanks!
The master of surf dash
Looks amazing man great work
I think it looks fabulous.
Thanks!
I think you did a great job with both I'm very impressed I'm restoring 1st gen 4Runners and this helps a lot
Thanks!
@@6thGearGarage You know I've been trying to think of a way to make my armrest have a shape again and using the foam I can make a center arm rest That might make a great video I have the covers but they don't look right after all the padding fell apart
@@mikewicker1944 that’s an excellent idea. 👍
I think it looks great but I am looking forward to seeing the dash after the extreme heat and cold test. Nice Job! John
You and me both... any small cracks will show up easier than they would on the vinyl covered dash.
@@6thGearGarage That was my thought as well. I will soon be doing the same job on an old chevy truck dash. I think I'm going to try the vinyl wrap but may do it a little differently. I liked the way you worked the foam in this one. John
This is fantastic!! Going to do this on my truck at some point, film it and reference/link your video!
Thanks! But let’s see how it holds up first 😁
That looks awesome Brian. Gave me some ideas for my YJ and Mustang dash.
Let’s see how it holds up through the cold and heat before you get started 😁
@@6thGearGarage I really like the texture paint you used. I have a nice crack in my yj dash from a wrench that just happed to decide to fly one day. Was thinking it should be an easy fix since it’s not padded and I think that texture and paint route is the way to go after fixing it.
That looks just like what I remember from 80's style dashboards.
Looks really good! I'm a little bit tempted to try that on my dash one of these days. Loved the cake joke btw, had me laughing xD
turn hat blade in the coping saw 90 degrees, that way your metal up brace is pointing upwards when you trim
great tips, thanks!
dyou did a perfect job to save that dash man !!
Thank you!
i've been doing this for years, yours is real close
Thank you, I'm curious to see how it will hold up.
To spread the foam or silicone use a ice cube...the only thing silicon or foam wont stick to....Glad to see you held the foam can UPSIDE down this time LOL....Try cutting the foam with a hot blade, seals the surface of the foam after. If you want to glue down vinyl use gel super glue...think that would have helped on the stretch vinyl one, which looks really good...Or you can get a "inclinometer" that covers the depression on my 87 dash...Paid $500 for the last perfect gray one on the planet...Great info...let you make all the mistakes first...lol
Have you ever tried a dongometer for this type of application?
Great ideas, thanks!!
Silicone and wetting your finger works just fine
@@steveadams5190 not true
The end result is astonishingly good, almost looks like OEM new. More sanding of the texture coat would make it look even more original, I think. Fantastic work, great video, loved the background music, it was a good choice and perfectly placed back in the background, not too forward not too rear. Great project, presentation, and videography, really appreciate your work. edit, p.s. Im mostly commenting on your work, that was tedious and I think you did a great job. How well the actual chemicals will do I can not say, time will tell, and looking forward to your tests.
Thanks 👍 this was a long project and I’ll be happy if it holds up in the heat!
Love the approach too - spraying the texture on. I think you should sand the top coat with 200 grit to almost eliminate the high points and respray.
Thanks! If this one holds up through the heat and cold, I may sand it some more and repaint it to get the texture a little more smooth
@@6thGearGarage That is a great approach.
waiting for the torture test! this looks awesome. My plan is to fiberglass the whole thing after I remove all the old shrinking vinyl.
Not too shabby, I like it.
Thanks!
I love your videos! Keep making these please 🙌🍻👍
Thanks! Will do!
I really like the way this came out. Maybe a little more sanding to smooth it out a bit better. I am working on a 87 4runner and it has a cracked dash that will be repairing soon. I refinished the removable top with Raptor thinned and shot through a HVLP gun and the finish is very OEM and not Berliner looking. I may use the Raptor shot the same way on the dash as I think it came out a bit smoother then the trunk paint you used. Thanks again for the tips and tricks. Good stuff!!!
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
Looks good. A whole lot better then when you started.
Thanks, luckily I could only make it better from where it started!
Looks good from here, only thing is paint usually looks good from pictures and videos. It is definitely better than the original cracked one and if available a lot cheaper than new! Good job
You can also use spray rattle can adhesives (like 3M 77) as a texture intermediate coat. It has unique rugged texture.
I've used 3m Super 77 before, it's very sticky, quality adhesive! I don't know how well paint would bond to it though.
Now THAT looks dang good. HOPE the 2 different sub-materials expand/contract equally. Only suggestion I can come up with is 2-3-4 coats of gray primer which helps fill in the low areas then sand each until the texture is closer to OEM. 😉👍
Now that primer idea is good! I have some filler primer that would work great for that.
@@6thGearGarage NOOOOoooo... I used it and it fills in WAY TO MUCH. Take it in layers.
Looks mint
I'm sure someone else in the comments has already mentioned it, but just in case: a serrated kitchen knife, like a bread knife or for finer work a filet knife, works great for carving expanded foam. The Surform ("cheese grater") tool you used is ideal for shaping - good call there.
Great idea on the knife, thanks!
An electric knife works great.
Or maybe one of those back and forth multipurpose wood cutting tools?
@@Notfiveo0”oscillating tool”. Sure, one of those would work. Just need to use it carefully, on the lowest setting. It would move pretty quick on foam. An electric carving knife is traditional for cutting sponge foam for upholstery, also.
Please keep doing these videos their awesome, also i think this is the best one out of all of em only thing is it has too much texture
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
third time's a charm! I like your video 'cause It doesn't look too professional
Thank you!
Not bad. Next time, just use SEM vinyl paint whenever you paint a dash pad like this. I've used it before and it works wonders!
Thanks, I'll look into SEM next time!
I think it looks good. I do want to see it after the heat test and also after a year installed on the vehicle.
Thanks, I don’t know if it will hold up as well as the vinyl wrapped dash, but we will see.
"the mushroom shaped guy is the tool of choice for widening these cracks". "That's what she said" -Michael Scott
You should look at the SEM line of interior products. SEM texture coating 39853 is great for recreating textured surfaces and SEM interior dye can be mixed to the color code of your interior. SEM has 5 different sheens of clear top coats for the interior dye to match the sheen of your other parts.
I've heard a lot of good things about SEM in the comments and will be trying their paint on the next dash.
I did one with bumper repair and rapter came out great be a few years. Ill try the fome next time
Good to know... looking forward to seeing how this holds up!
Looks great
Thanks!!
Good job! I think I would have sanded the texture a little more, but otherwise, this looks like a success. Thanks for posting.
Thanks! After the fact I wish I had sanded it a little more as well
Fish Filet knife works well for cutting that and getting into tight corners
Good idea!
Try using a scraper on an oscillating tool to cut the foam. Works great. Fast and easy. Also try mixing a little fiberglass resin with the bondo. Makes it much easier to work with.
Great Idea! I recently bought one of those oscillating tools for my other channel. I'll give it a try!
So if you leave the foam dry for 5 minutes then spray water on it , you can form it and it won't be as sticky. Use a bread knife to cut it
Great tip, thanks!!
I may have to do that same thing on my 83 and my 77 model Chevrolet trucks dashs.
You might fund matching your texture easier if you go lighter on the splatter paint and the do a high build prime after then sand the 2 down. Repeat the high build and sand until the desired texture. I am guessing but it's where I'd start.
That's a great idea!
I like it the best and it seems it’s going to be the most durable of them all. But we will see right? Thank you for the great video
Thanks! My $$ is on the vinyl wrapped one for the durability test, only because the vinyl will hide any tiny cracks. I feel like any tiny cracks will be more visible on this one, but we will find out!
The dashpad in my 4runner was fixed using a similar method. It sat inside in a climate controlled area for about a year and it looked pretty good. Unfortunately after I installed it, it immediately cracked after 1 heat cycle. Rewrapping the dash pad seems to be the best way to fix them.
Thanks for the info... if this one cracks in the heat, then I will sand it down and wrap it with the vinyl.
You can spot surface irregularities by shining a bright flashlight beam parallel to the surface. This will show high or low areas plus small pits.
Great idea, thanks!
I thought you done good. I got to do my 86 c10. I will sand mine just a little more at thr end before painting. But good job. I am a body man. And I still make mess when applying it.
Thank you, Norm Macdonald. We miss you.
Well done. Might considering skipping the spray foam and use microlight body filler which is much easier to work with. Also, use black or gray primer sealer to minimize bleed through from different materials underneath and provide good/consistent base to top coat.
great video, good process but if i may as a rule of thumb i was taught to never put wax and grease remover on filler as the solvents do not evaporate from the filler and possible issues may arise down the track, best of luck
Great point!
You should have gond with SEM texture coating spray It looks good but it looks like raptor liner out of a paint gun. So like very fine raptor liner
I didn’t know SEM made a texture spray, thanks!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I’d like to see another vinyl wrap test but with using a vacuum bag setup to see if that makes a difference with gluing down the contours
I haven't tried the vacuum method, but would like to! I also want to try flocking a dash at some point, as well as making one perfectly smooth and glossy like a late 90's show car, but that one just sounds like a nightmare for my OCD.
"Cheese graters" are used to rough out the filler before it is completely set up then finish with paper.
That is going to make it so much easier, thanks!
All um look good
looks good. Here are a few tips on perhaps improving the finished look. Spray high build primer over your sanded texture and then sand that down. Should give you a more flat, not as rough finish. You could repeat the process for even more "fill".
That's a great idea!! Thanks
You had the right idea with the cheeze grater filer but the wrong timing. You use that just as the bondo sets up, like too stiff to spread but still rubbery. Works best then, no gouging and shaves fast.
Thanks for the tip!
the texture is clearly not vinyl but looks great. This method could be used for other interior parts too. For a shine on your vinyl wrap could you use a protection spray?
Looking back, I should have sanded this one a little more to get the texture closer to the oem vinyl texture. I haven't tried applying any shine product on the wrapped dash in case I decide to repaint it in the future. The silicones/oils in the product will soak in and repel paint.
To do the thin coats you could also use evercoat brand glazing putty
Is that similar to USC Icing? I've use that before and it was great for very minor imperfections.
when you get to top coat fillers thin that filler out more than you did, it applies better
Excellent work. I have a '67 Buick Special dash that I'm going to tackle this summer. It looks like and it's going to be a nightmare but it has to be done. Where did you get your 4 way stretch dash material.
I found it on Amazon because no local stores carried it: amzn.to/3vykgPv
@@6thGearGarage Thank you so much and have a blessed day.
6:37 As you are not using the foam for it's intended purpose, you could cut the straw down to a more manageable length. Also, I would try two coats of foam, like when you do bondo. The first skimpy coat is smashed and mooshed to contact all of the substrate and the second is the fluffy filler. Easier to work with dried foam that has not been molested. More uniform to cut and sand.
Good idea!
@@6thGearGarage Thanks! Wait! I just had yet another flash of brilliance. If you gently wrap it in cling wrap just after the second foamy coat you may get a more uniform version of the stronger outer layer you were looking for. (Sure I'm stoned. Why?)
Masking before foam would help you after the fiam is cured. Aldo using a foaming polyurethane glue would give you way more control when filling the cracks.
So would I mask over the crack and then spray under the tape to help keep the foam concealed when expanding?
I m courious about removing all foam an vinyl. Like going old school metal dashes from the 70s but raptor lining the metal dash.
I've seen it done on these dashes before, but it looks a little too utilitarian for me with all of the extra holes showing. Maybe if the rest of the interior was also customized to the utilitarian look it would match better.
I use gravel garde for vinyle finish
i like it!
Looks good but that was a lot of work. I’m interested in the long term results. I’m considering a dash and door panels from FAMAA, the prices aren’t terrible and door panels look surprisingly well done for the price
Definitely a lot of work with all the body filler. Less work if you're better at bondo than I am lol. I've seen the pics of the FAMAA stuff and it looks really nice. I read a while back that some of the fiberglass dashes have fitment issues around the vents, but I haven't read anything bad recently, so maybe they modified their molds to fix that. I would definitely buy a set of their door panels.
I think if you would have spent more time sanding before you painted it it would have turned out phenomenal. You could still go over it and paint it again. You have to try that. Good job looks good
I agree. Depending on how it does in the heat test, I will go back and sand it more.
Looks great. Next time remove all the vinyl from the original dash to where it's all foam, or add adhesion promoter to what's left of the factory vinyl before you paint over it.
DOH! I actually had some adhesion promoter and didn't even think about using it. We'll nee how it holds up in the heat & cold!
Using The Word Restoration is a OXIMORON in this video. He literally built a house into a tree! Basically, He REMANUFACTURED That piece. In essence he has made something New, Combining the parts of the Old with something New! He has downplayed his skills, This Man does Good Work!
Well thank you so much! I like to show others that anything is possible!
Wish there was more like you. Have a Good Day.@@6thGearGarage
Good video
Thanks!
you can buy dash pad filler in a can, its like putting on bondo
Hopefull it’ll work for my 99 chevy s10
Awesome work... In what room temperature did you use that you spray on that you got good results??
Thanks! I was working on this in my basement, so it was around 65° F
@@6thGearGarage You are welcome. In my area the temperature is 50f so can I start to spray it or I need to wait until it get to 55f or 60f?
Nice job! I am by no means a professional, but the bondo file should be used before the filler is completely cured. You can use very little pressure, and the difference of the texture between the bondo and the original surface is easier to feel, so there's less gouging into the original dash. An electric "jitterbug" sander makes the job way quicker too, and you can attach a vacuum to the sander to reduce mess.
Thanks, that will make the next dash much easter/faster!
The bondo file is called a cheese grater. Use it when the bondo is set up to about the hardness of hard cheese. It's about 10 percent as much work.
Nice
Hey bro, on the last coat of bondo use spot putty. it is made for filling minor flaws and pinholes in bondo..Nice job. I have a 77 K20 dash to do myself. I was thinking fiberglass but I hate the itch : >)
Too intense of a project for me to tackle, but it was so enticing that I had to watch it till the end. I ended up subscribing to your channel. Dude, use a mask when doing these projects you don’t want your lungs fried.
If that's too intense then you don't do projects lol😂
Do you think this textured paint would stick well to 3d printed parts? Would I have to use filler?
You may need to scuff the surface first and spray an adhesion promoter to help the paint bond to plastic.
If you don’t let the bondo dry completely you can use the rasp and work better halfway dry.
I'll definitely do that next time.. thanks!
Helpful hint: Spray all tight areas/inside corners first to avoid spraying too much on the larger areas while trying to get the tight areas.
Looks great but you can still see the repaired areas even with all the texture. I don't think anyone would notice unless they were looking for it.
yeah, some of the bondo areas were just a hair higher than the rest of the dash, so the texture there was sanded down a little more with the block.
Would acetone or something be ok to help spread ?
Someone mentioned using fiberglass resin to help thin the filler.
Looks good...maybe try wrinkle paint and sand for the texture,,,,That one looks a bit like stucco or garage floor paint.....and I think the charcoal color isnt that close to the oem gray...at least in my truck
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
That looks pretty good. A trick to get that vinyl fake leather texture is to use tin foil. Take a sheet of foil and crumple it into a ball, then carefully un-crumple the foil back into a sheet. The uncrumpled foil will have a very similar texture to fake leather. Use a thin scratch coat of body filler on top of your prepared surface, then press the foil into that thin layer of filler to leave the fake leather texture in the filler. This has to be timed just right, when the filler is about to set but is still moldable. (play dough stage) Pull the tin foil off right away before the filler hardens. After the filler hardens, give the surface a light sanding to flatten any ridges or high spots then clean and paint. I have used this method a couple times and though it is a bit tricky, the results look very close to factory.
That is a genius idea... thanks! The only thing I'm wondering is how the skim coat of bondo would hold up over time on a dashboard that expands/contracts from heating & cooling?
@@6thGearGarage I have never used this method on an entire dash, usually only damaged areas but as long as you rough the surface before applying the thin scratch coat, it seems to last quite well. The first time I tried this was about 5-6 years ago, and it still looks like it did when I finished.
Apply an let dry easier ,clean trimming thinner the bondo.look cool.
SEM texture coating is the way to go!
I've heard so many good things about SEM in the comments... I will give it a try next time.
Cool.
I would have used a barrel sanding tip with a dremel to do that inside lip around the vents. Much faster. My only other minor criticism would be how thick you are applying your body filler. Thin to win brother. I am not strictly a body man but I do build custom hotrods and stock cars as sanity maintaining hobby.
Yeah I had to put the filler on extra thick where I cut out too much foam. I'm interested to see how this holds up on the heat/cold test!
I would use a flush-cut saw to remove the excess foam.
LOL feckstone, welcome to the 80's my guy!
I remember! I didn't start driving until the mid 90's and remember seeing it on the dashboards of some vehicles then and thinking it was awesome.
many a chevy blazer was covered in it.@@6thGearGarage
also the trick to the bedliner is distance. up close will be thicker and smoother.for texture further away and "flick"@@6thGearGarage
The vinyl you applied in the earlier version would probably have worked if you had vacuum-bagged it while it was curing. And it would have been a lot simpler.
I'll have to try the vacuum bag method in a future video!