Part 2: How to Restore/Fix/Repair a Cracked Vinyl Dash - Toyota Hilux Pickup/4Runner
Here's how the dash looks one year later: • What is the Best Way t...
Part 3: How to Restore a Cracked Vinyl Dashboard WITHOUT Vinyl Wrap, using a Spray Texture Coating: • How to Restore Cracked...
This is my second attempt on restoring an old cracked dash from a 1987 Toyota Pickup
This time I'm using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl, brush-on contact cement, and vinyl paint in the following order:
- grind the cracks into a V groove with a dremel
- fill cracks with spray foam
- fill pinholes and final leveling with bondo
- sand smooth
- enlarge vent openings
- apply adhesive to vinyl and dash & wrap vinyl over dash
- trim excess vinyl
- paint to match factory grey
Products used (some may be found cheaper @ local hardware stores)
Dremel 25 pc kit: amzn.to/3g0dWs3
or cheaper generic Dremel: amzn.to/3v0w1dK
Spreaders: amzn.to/3ptttUi
Dupli-Color Prep Spray: amzn.to/3w3uKE2
Dupli-Color Charcoal Grey Vinyl & Fabric Paint: amzn.to/3EWm1Jc
4-way stretch vinyl: amzn.to/3vykgPv
Great Stuff Spray Foam: amzn.to/36VPS85
Weldwood Contact Cement: amzn.to/38w7yr4
Hacksaw Handle/Blade: amzn.to/3kkdvdl
Roller: amzn.to/3EVQJ56
Xacto Knife: amzn.to/2SaQUps
80 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXABuC
USC Kromate Light Body Filler: amzn.to/3Ly1vkM
Rubber Sanding Block: amzn.to/3kr2HtW
Foam sanding Block 80 Grit
Clamps, 4-pack: amzn.to/3vWsnmx
If this looks like too much work, there are also Dash Caps available:
1979 -1983 Toyota Pickup without Side Defrost Vents: amzn.to/3uWu2Y1
1984-1986 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (long recessed area across dash top) amzn.to/3fTvCFM
1987-1988 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) ebay.us/PVU7qd
1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: amzn.to/2T5rIkh
2003 - 2009 Toyota 4Runner with Speaker Holes: amzn.to/3ghX1Qy
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations but you can support the channel with some rad Yota gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.com/merchandise/
Here's the link for used OEM Toyota parts: 6thgeargarage.com/yota/
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instead of Great Stuff gap filler, use the low expansion type, it's denser which makes the foam stronger and since it doesn't expand as much so you don't have all those air pockets to deal with
I did the same with my dash after watching your video. I used a heat activated polyurethane cement. I found some stuff made by stronn. I had excellent results. The materials can touch each other and will not bond until heated. Thanks for giving me the idea to do this.
You have to hold the can of foam upside down...read the instructions
RTFM...🤣
Was painful to see that
Lol, don’t correct this man about some unimportant detail as if you have the same skills that he has.
@@WillKruger-xw8ndcan of foam upside down...learn to read
What a fantastic finish, I'm impressed with the join you made. Great videos.
Great work and thanks for sharing the process and lessons learned here. Appreciated.
You did a great job! Looks 110% better than before you started and that's always a win!
Great tutorial, and congratulations on this one , came out beautiful.
Very impressive work. I learned a lot about redoing a dash and the vinyl used. Thank you
Hello! Nice job on the repair. If you ever need to cut a matching piece like you had in the corner lay them down on top of each other then cut them both at the same time the the cuts will be identical and will lay down next to each other nice and flat. Any gaps can be filled with RTV then painted. And yes the 4-way stretch stuff is the way to go!!! Thanks!
Unexpectedly captivating! You did a great job, and i would echo the support for the inclusion of your bloopers as the recoveries are as educational as the subject material. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much!
omg this man belong to Next World , Great idea great mindset . Love you dear
I watched an upholsterer work with vinyl once. One thing he did was stretch the vinyl over tight corners with a heat gun. He made it look easy, but I could tell he had a lot of practice! I don't know what glue he was using, but he sprayed it on with a weird looking pneumatic sprayer that shot a very light but narrow stream.
I tested a heat gun with this 4-way stretch vinyl, but it's so thin and rubbery that it started to blister. I restored a dash with thicker marine vinyl that wasn't 4-way stretch and the heat gun did wonders to help that form around corners. I just uploaded a resto of another dash where I sprayed on the vinyl texture and it turned out to be my best yet: kzhead.info/sun/pttxddGjmZewi30/bejne.html
@@6thGearGarage That makes sense. It looks very thin! I'm really enjoying these videos and your ideas as I work on my '77. 👍
Wow that's awesome you give credit & you're honest about using the viewers recommendations!
Thanks - I've actually learned a lot from viewers' comments and always look forward to reading them!
Mix and pour 2 part poly urethane foam is superior. The problem with the spray can method is that it can leave voids and simply fail to cure if the repair is too thick. The 2-part won't pit, and you can get it in different densities. It makes an extreme strong bond, it is much more rigid than the spray foam, cures in minutes, and It would allow you to skip the bondo step entirely.
Thx, you gave me confidence to do dash of my Father's vintage Audi,,, you are Great!! Success with your endeavours👍
Looks great I’ll have try this on my dash
Man that looks a lot better than your first! amazing results dude!
Thank you! So far it has held up great in the heat test, while the first dash is lifting /peeling across the top.
One day he'll discover masking tape to keep all of the filler messes contained. I love the train of thought presentation of the video, even if the messy filler gives me a bit of anxiety.
That's a good idea!!
I recommend cosclay foam clay. It air dries and is sculptable, sandable and is similar tot eh foam used in dashboards.
Dude, I loved it. I watcher both your dash vids and nobody on earth can argue u didn't give it 110%. Plus your commentary is so real it's hilarious. I now (almost) got the balls to do mine, but I'm thinking a combo of both yours. Body filler, contact cement, vinyl, seem the far passenger end, and use help of heat gun to mold/stretch contours. Excellent content from you! Wish me luck 👍
I want to do another where I fill in that recessed area on top to make it smooth. That area has given me a lot of issues on these dashes!
I second the use of the heat gun. I use mine for so many projects when I never thought I would.
Yep can’t beat a heat gun to help with that stretch it’s an excellent tool for forming shapes I used to use a good hairdryer on the hottest setting can help too also good for removing vinyl wrap too , good on ya for getting yourself out there and giving things a go and in turn helping someone else out as someone had commented earlier ✌️😎👍
nice work man keep it up you really got a good result
very educational. Thanks for making the video
Thanks for the idea I was wondering how I could fix those crakes , good job bro.
They sell a rasp that is used to buff tires, so a tire patch can be put on, but I found that rasp works great on dash boards
Doh! I actually have one of those... never thought about using it for this lol.
I like the classical music in the background 👌
Same here- very relaxing and will stand the test of time, hopefully!
Damn so much patience. It turned out really good though, thanks for sharing!!
What would you recommend please if the dashboard actually split in half? Would you do something similar? Thanks!
Nice work buddy !!! I learned a lot .! Thank you for sharing:) now I’m gonna attempt this with my 1981 vw rabbit truck !
Thanks! I just restored another one using a spray on texture instead of wrapping the vinyl, and it turned out very nice! That video should be going live sometime this week.
Way better bro good job
Wicked job on the dash. Some great skills to know if and when a person does this to there fine ride.
Thanks, this dash held up well through the heat and cold too: kzhead.info/sun/rNukobiZf31of3k/bejne.html
The PU foam is *no good* . It will "deflate" over time and collaps. Just give it 2-3 years There is another foam to fill cracks between walls and door/window frames. It is less sturdy but wont change shape over time. Best option would probably be to get some XPS foam sheet and cut it to fit.
Good guide for bondo. matchbox size for bondo, and one match stick size for the hardner.
Thanks for the info!
For those small holes don't use bondo again use glazing/spot putty. It's the right tool for that job.
I did a toyota celica dash with contact glue and fabric, It worked out to my satisfaction.
On your small pit in the sanding of the bondo is easy to cover with a product called glazing putty, it's what body shops use on their bondo once you sand it to shape, to cover pits, low spots and sand scratch Mark's. 🤠👍😁
Thanks!
Wow very good job thanks for your time 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Well done dude, looks good.
Thanks!
Grandioso trabajo realizado Eres muy inspirador , motivas a mantener autos en buen acabado plástico
Awesome job 👏👍🏿🙌
Thanks 💯
On the first Dash pad project you used a piece of plastic to line the recessed rectangular area on top of the dash. You ended up with the uneven fold creases in your Bondo mold. You might try making a mold with a section of the 4-way stretch vinyl instead. I would put the "grain: side up, so the grain imprints in the mold. BUT- I would spray the grain side with WD-40 first, then wipe down so there is only a thin coat remaining. Then you pour in you Bondo to make the mold. When the Bondo mold cures, it should pull apart from the vinyl liner with no problem, leaving you with a mold with the vinyl grain pattern. Also if you use that "creased" mold again- you can put a section of the 4-way vinyl (with the grain side down this time) in the recessed area, smooth it out then clamp down your mold to allow the glue to set over night. Kudos on your videos. I have done dashboards & other challenging interior pieces and come up with the same challenges you have. You can only improvise & get better each time. Thanks to all who contributed in their comments.
Thanks for sharing your ideas! I have many more cracked dashes and will enjoy trying another dash restoration after reading all the helpful comments.
Just placed a comment on your part 1 video regarding how to deal with the cut and tuck corners. You can also fix the end where you ran out of vinyl.
That looks damn good my friend. I have an 88 with the exact crack. I'm going to try to fix it. Thanks.
Thanks! I just restored another Toyota dash using a spray on texture instead of wrapping the vinyl, and it turned out very nice! That video should be going live sometime this week.
You can *INDEED* undo a cut. Remember, there are several vinyl upholstery repair kits out there for repairing rips, cigarette burn holes, etc., & thet'll work just as fantastically well on deliberate incisions at seams - or - at a seam created by butting the edge of a patch *next to* (not overlapping) the portion of the covering where you ran out of material. Just be sure to spend the extra few pennies for the kit that comes with the actual electrical setting iron instead of the iron that you have to heat with a lighter. Don't be cheap. get the good one.
I can’t remember if you did with the marine vinyl but heating up the material helps prevent wrinkles! With a hair dryer or heat gun in your case
I did use a heat gun for the marine vinyl, but the 4-way stretch vinyl was much easier to work with. It's really more of a stretchy cloth with a very thin layer of rubber/vinyl on top. I may try some heat on the recessed area where it bubbled up some.
Perfection !
How does a heat gun flash on 4 way v for moulding to corners? Like they do on wraps .
The fabric was so thin, that I didn't even try. I was convinced it would melt quickly.
For the areas that wrinkle, you need to use a heat gun on the material, it helps to form that corner or dip and when the material cools, it helps to hold that shape, so it won't lift back up, also on sections where you need to cut a slit in the material, it's best to use a hole punch, to put a rounded hole at the end where the slit stops, then cut your slit up to that hole you made with the hole punch, this will prevent the material from splitting further up from your cut. 🤠👍😁
Great tips... thank you!
Looks Good to me
Show this to anyone that bitches about these oem dash pieces being $400-$500 in uncracked condition. Good work!
They are not worth $300 or $400 🖕🏻🖕🏻🖕🏻
For foam, I think that the low expansion might have been a better choice, both in the dash and the man shed.
I'll have to sop around for some of that.
@@6thGearGarage Windows and doors foam, found at all big box stores like HD and Lowes.
@@bradmaas6875 Oh I did see that, didn't realize that was the low expansion kind. I'll pick up a can this week, as I'm about to make another another dash restoration video, but this time I'll be painting on the texture instead of wrapping it. Thanks!!
Nice job
Thanks!
Please advise on the vinyl mil thickness you used.
I’m unsure of the mil but it’s thin like a t-shirt. There is a link to the fabric I used in the description.
How do I access this link?
@@keithbasinger6885 just click it and it will take you to the item on amazon, however it is out of stock at this time.
Very good work. 👍👍👍
Thanks!
man this turned out great.. wanna do one for me..?? ;) ive got the same cutout in mine but dont have the inclinometer... what is a good way to fill that indentation?
I still have not found the ideal way to fill the indentation, but if I was going to try again, I'd use spray foam with a skim coat of bondo over top. What's the fun if you don't restore it yourself :)
@@6thGearGarage touche salesman..lol i was thinking the same actually.. and before laying the 4 way stretch vinyl, maybe thin dynamat to give some response similar to the factory dash
That's a great idea@@boorhadly
thinking the urethane concrete crack filler from DAP might work for the indentation... but not sure that it returns fully if pressed formly@@6thGearGarage
applying the contact cement to area before spray foam will help the foam stick.
Great tip... thanks!
Contactc cement has to be dry not tacky and it works on compression all the clamping won't help and the seams you can over lap the material and strike a cut through both like wall paper or floor vinyl dose not have to be a straight line and good masking tape is the best it stretches and pulls back to the seam.
Good job
Thanks!
Practice makes perfect. How did the paint hold up over the vinyl?
Pretty well! kzhead.info/sun/rNukobiZf31of3k/bejne.html
Yes, practise makes perfect :)
Yes it does!
Great Stuff Window and Door would be good for this. Much smaller air bubbles.
Good call!
For the small touches and pin holes glazing putty may be nicer to use than bondo
Good idea!
@6th Gear Garage looks good on film. how is the texture up close? How do you feel about the texture on this vinyl? i saw on the reviews some people thought texture was cheap looking. someone said it looked like sprayed on rubber.
The texture of the 4-way stretch vinyl is smooth compared to the original finish, or even the thicker marine vinyl.
Looking good
Thanks 👍
Learned from your video. Thanks so much. Were you able to remove the dashboard without disassembling everything?
The only difficult part of removing these dash pads is taking out the right side vent to access a hidden bolt: kzhead.info/sun/or59XctsiZiaiKc/bejne.html Snd there's one more hidden bolt up inside that can be accessed through the bottom with extensions.
You can use vinyl good quality repair kit on the cut seam. They come in different colors, and if you do it right, you wont be able to tell even if the color doesn't match 100%. Some even come with a texture mold to help blend it in.
I have seen those at parts stores... great idea!
Ya need a French curve, architects use them for drawings. I'd make a few of them once you obtain one. When you see the French curve you will understand.....
So after all that, would you do it this way again or would you buy a preformed cap off e-bay? When I see how much time you put into this and materials I'm not sure it makes sense but I've never bought one of the caps so perhaps they suck?
I've heard that the caps don't fit well around the vent openings and you can see the edge. But after considering the time to recover, plus the labor in removing the dash, the cap isn't a bad way to go if you don't have a lot of spare time. Here's how to remove the dash pad if you want to see how long it can take: kzhead.info/sun/or59XctsiZiaiKc/bejne.html
Could you use a heat gun to shape the corners? I've seen videos that use a hear gun to heat leather around corners
I used a heat gun on the thicker vinyl from the previous dash, but was worried about burning the thinner 4-way. A hair drier may have been perfect because they don't het too hot.
Just a tip, if you start on the right side of the dash with fabric, you will have enouhg room on the top to stretch the material with no wrinkles, and side will be smooth also, otherwise great job man 👍
Thanks for the info!
Great video. Man I don’t know if you figure about how to avoid or or fix the joint that you cut the vinyl if not they sale this Leather Advance Leather gel Repair Kit for seats You can use that seem and to make it disappear olso can be use on the vent that you cut a bit much 👍
I've seen those kits... I'll have to try that the next time I measure once and cut twice.
Save yourself a lot of trouble. Everywhere you don't want the foam to stick use either masking tape or oil the surface. A little dawn and warm water will clean up the oil. I've used this method making molds to form several things with bondo
Konzervu sa pur- penom trebalo bi okrenuti naopako. Kada se ekspandirana pena osuši na dodir,potrebno je sabiti prstima i tako će biti i čvršća i kompaktnija
38:43 why does the contact cement seep through the vinyl? Is the solvent in the glue melting the vinyl?
The 4-way stretch vinyl is very thin, so the liquid seeps through.
Most definitely putty with hardner will self level will be a breeze to form
some dude show how to do this correctly, the technology is to get a vinyl in the tube then apply a clue and use a vacuum to bull the air out so it will snug well around the dash
Hola amigo , perdon no se Ingles , si usas aerosol (spray ) de poliuretano cuando aplicas , tenes que poner el envase al reves de cabeza y nunca emparejar o tocar la espuma con nada porque en esa area seca distinto mas duro y mas quebradizo , es mejor usar el poliuretano para preparar que son dos componentes Poliol e Isosianato , en partes iguales y al mezclarlo se forma la espuma , rellena mejor y no queda espacios de aire , solo tendrias que hacerle una contencion con cinta de papel hasta que seque , suerte , buenos videos 👏👏👏❤
IT WORKS GREAT FOR RUST HOLES IN YOUR VEHICLE USE SPRAY FOAM LET DRY THEN TRIM IT OFF WITH A KNIFE OR A HACKSAW BLADE AND THEN YOU CAN PAINT IT.
It's a good quick fix, but will actually hold moisture and cause more rust in the long run.
@@6thGearGarage I was thinking on spraying the rust proof in the first let that dry and they spray the foam to fill the rusted hole then trim it then paint it again 👍
Do you feel like the dash cap is worth it just based on labor? I was thinking of skinning my dash in blue carbon Kevlar but don't know how "flashy" that would look
Totally worth it based on labor alone... You're saving hours and a lot of chance for error compared to restoring the original dash. The only downfall of caps is Ive heard they don't fit well around the vents.
@@6thGearGarage bought a cap of eBay for a 86 runner and it was a complete waste of my money. The cap wasn't long enough and the vents did not line up at all I would been to cut out more chunks in the dash So im in the process of redoing it I filled up the cracks with gorilla glue and now I'm on the fiberglass bondo stage then will wrap it in vinyl
@@BraddaMarlon I've heard about the vent holes not lining up perfect on some but I can't believe they wouldn't make it long enough. I mean, they had one job... I hope you returned it for a refund.
Part of the problem is that the vinyl has a “grain” or pattern in its texture. By cutting it and butting the edges you are joining a horizontal to a vertical pattern. Folding the two edges under then butting them might be preferable. The seam is noticeable but it likely oks intentional.
I have used thicker marine vinyl, which has a noticeable grain. However this 4-way stretch vinyl is much thinner, about the thickness of a t-shirt, and it doesn't have the pattern like most vinyl has. I actually wish it did have the pattern, so it would look closer to OEM.
My Friend nice CAT 🐈 I have Three and a Dog 🐕. Great Video God Bless.
Looked better with the cracks
would it help if you heat the vinyl with a hair dryer.
I used a heat gun to help form the thicker marine vinyl I used in part 1, but I was worried about melting the 4-way stretch vinyl because it is so thin. Maybe a hair dryer would be just enough heat though.
Curious if you can link the 4 way vinyl you used??
Yes there is a link in the description
I have a 2000 Tacoma with one arm rest that is pealing up, and there is not a replacement available. Any suggestions?
Rather than spend the time and money on materials trying to recover, I'd just buy a nice used one on ebay.
How much money in materials did you spent? and the time to fix it...i think is worth it to spend good money on one already in good shape. I like your video thank you for all the information on this.
I already had the tools and some materials. There’s a list in the description if you want to price out the things you will need from amazon. I found some items cheaper locally. I didn’t keep track of time but I would guess a few hours total, but spaced out because of drying time.
Did the cement hold up thr cement on mine didn't hold well on recess area
Other than lifting up a tiny bit in the very beginning, the rest of the recessed area has stayed down.
What about using Saran Wrap in the void and make a mould of it then when it's dry take it out and cut off the excess and then glue into place instead ! 👍🇬🇧
Do you mean like I did in part 1 kzhead.info/sun/hpGOgMWRi3h4n30/bejne.html except use the mold to fill in the recessed area?
@@6thGearGarage I have just watched part 1 and yes that's what I meant except using expanding foam in the Saran Wrap mould for the soft base before Bondo and then you can cut off the excess before glueing into place with maybe less mess ! 👍🇬🇧
@@sickoftheleftwingscum I'm giving these first two dashes some time to see if the foam shrinks or expands over time vs the bondo, and then maybe I'll go back for round 3 and fill in that cursed recessed area.
You worked as never before and screwed as always😂😂
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I wonder if a hairdryer might help removing the wrinkles?
I used a heat gun on the thicker vinyl, but was worried about burning the thinner 4-way. A hair drier may have been prefect because they don't het too hot.
Is it possible to just paint the dash instead of using vinyl love that Toyota tan
I think the paint would work well on the original vinyl surface as long as it was clean.
I use this all the time I have an idea so you should use a angle grinder with a sandpaper wheel comes out very pressis
That's a good idea, thanks!
@@6thGearGarage oh yes on that crack on your dashboard have you heard of crack filler I use it on my trailer floors you could get it at trailer parts store l boundo does not comes close to it it's a 50/50 mix you get two cans dude it works on any surface works on wood , plastic ,metal ,
@@eddiepulido2696 I will check it out, thanks!
The jeb gardener of garages
The non-expanding Great Stuff to avoid the expansion.
WOULD JUST PRIMING AND PAINTING IT AFTER THE BODYWORK NOT GIVE GOOD RESULTS?
I tried something similar on this dash, but with a textured paint: kzhead.info/sun/pttxddGjmZewi30/bejne.html The surface will need to be more smooth if not vinyl wrapping.
One other important point I want to make about color coating vinyl. SEM is the best color coat available, I have used other products from O'Reilly-and other auto parts stores and regretted it. (Unless these products have improved-that is) If you are using a black four way stretch vinyl because that is all that is available, and you need your finished product to be a grey or a saddle tan color, You MUST first use SEM SILVER over the black. If you don't, a light final color will not give you the desired light color. I always keep a can of silver around for the light over dark color changes. SEM has been in this business for decades. Their product only gets better & better. (No, I don't work for SEM and receive NO compensation-but I am open to it~😁😁
Thanks for that advice!
Why use Bondo, which intended to fill firm metal surfaces, to fill a foam dash with "give"? The bondo will crack. Try bumper filler, which flexes.
I will look into the bumper filler, thanks!
Is bondo the best option?
Bondo dries the hardest. I tested resin in part one, but it was a little more flexible.
If you had read the instructions. It tells you to hold the can upsidedown to use.
If you can see this message, how does the vinyl and fabric paint feel? Does it FEEL like paint? Or, does it just simply blend into the vinyl like it's not even there?
The paint seems to soak into the vinyl and feels perfectly smooth like surface of the vinyl. (If vinyl was textured, it would soak in and preserve the textured pattern of the vinyl.)
@@6thGearGarage that’s great to know! Thank you sir! Also, if you plan on testing more methods, have you thought about the plastic welding method that’s out there? That’s the one I’m currently considering.
@@AllOutNoobHater I'd like to own one someday. I've seen the videos and it looks like it does a great job. I'll probably wait until I have a plastic bumper to repair, as I'm not sure how well it would work on one of these dashboards.