This Old House mason, Mark McCullough takes a homeowner on as his new apprentice and shows him the tools, materials and technique for laying brick.
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Mark identifies the necessary tools and shows the correct consistency of the loose mortar. He demonstrates how to lay a furrow with a trowel, place a brick, scrape back excess, level, clean, and go to the next brick with a head joint with the line blocks.
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Keywords:
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How to Lay Brick | This Old House
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"Neatness counts" something I learned the hard way. I let the mortar dry on the brick and it took me forever to clean off, lesson learned.
muriatic acid is your freind.
Looking forward to Richard's "How to lay pipe" video.
🤣
😂😂😂
loving your content lately, these short learning videos are excellent. Hope to one day be able to incorporate some bricks into my property
A real big help for the rookie mason is using mortar joint spacers or a Masons Fork spacing tool.
How many bricks high should you go with wet mortar before letting it set? Is there a weight where it will start to affect bricks below?
I have new respect for brick layers and masons. So many things to keep straight!
Do another of these. Each time he corrects the homeowners mistake i learned something. Maybe another home owner could be taught. Do an episode on non-portland mortar. Like type s, sand, water, burlap to keep wet for 7 days
Yes, that's the only mix old bricks will not be destroyed by as it's softer than old bricks. Many of us have old homes/bricks.
@@stp479 no type s is not good for old bricks. Type s and m are the hardest mortar types for masonry work. Type N or O are good for older brickwork. They'll contain more Lyme and give old brick the flexibility it needs to move and shift with weather conditions. Bricks today are fired harder than bricks in the past and Type s is used for a stronger application
@@sethbrandenburg941 Sorry, I meant low portland content mixes for our old bricks.
👍 I appreciate it
What's your gage
Nice but after spreading the mortar do not smash the mortar down along the bed joint with the back of the trowel. This keeps the job cleaner.
I've seen other brick layers say to not furrow the mortar because it creates air pockets.
Especially when laying the bricks with the frogs face down, it's really bad practice
@@ketmateo - is a frog the hollow indentation? I assumed they were on both opposing faces.
Why not do a longer or multi-brick furrow?
WELL ??????? great for those who do not know better.
I shoulda been a bricky. Just don’t like building scaffolding!
Did he say "Pooging?"
Spooging is the technical term. lol
Why such a big space between the red brick and the wall? how does it tie togethor
See all of the metal tabs on the block work? You just bend those down across the brick, lay your mortar over the tabs, put the brick on top of the mortar and the tabs, and then it is tied together.
So many videos showing how it's done . you will ever see a good fast neat Bricklayer on KZhead .
Some men are just born to work with their hands. This is one of those men
not in sub feed
This is an old clip from a year ago or so
Frogs weren't filled at all, as a CA, CoW and inspector, this wouldn't be signed off on any of my sites.
@Joe Kinchicken before putting a first course of brick, an environmental impact report should have been approved in CA..
In addition, would the bent up brick ties fail inspection? I was always told that bending them breaks the galvanizing.
@Joe Kinchicken frog as in the indentation or "the holes" in the brick should be filled for strength rigidity
@Joe Kinchicken I'm sure there probably is such a thing as a brick inspector, however I am not one and I'm based in the UK. CA=Contract Administrator, CoW=Clerk of Works, I'm also a Building Surveyor and Construction Project Manager. The frog is the indentation in the brick, in the UK it is normal for the brick to be laid with the frog up and then filled when the bed is laid to ensure full strength, however, in some areas the frog might be laid face down (for a few different reasons), although the frog still needs to be filled, the beds that they laid in this video are hollow to the centreline and therefore would not fill the frogs, leaving the wall much weaker and less acoustically insulated.
@@cgc7078 You're kind of right, both leaves really should be built together, but I do sometimes see the ties bent like this, certain types of stainless and galvanised ties can handle being bent, it shouldn't bother the galvanised coating as the coating can crack, be scratched or removed in small parts without effecting the protection it affords, however plastic coated ties should never be bent and it is better practice, if the leaves must be built at different times to leave the ties straight and ensure the area is well marked to prevent anyone getting injured (mostly eyes!) as bending any tie to that extent could weaken the tie significantly.
All that mortar pouring out the back will effect the air flow and isolation
I can’t lay brick, but I can lay pipe
Good - now if you can get paid for it youv'e got it made.
Man my issue with brick laying is all the waste of mortar. I mean guy wasn't even trying to be conservative.
What a mess
homeowner couldn't follow directions for 1 minute.
Frog down, cheating and amateur method.
Morter is way too wet. Not checking gauge. Frogs are down. 'Slamming' the head is so wasteful and ridiculous. String line isn't taut enough. Not a good lesson in my humble opinion.
Yeah…. Don’t do most of this
Hard to watch. He’s teaching bad habits. Not cutting his mortar flush when bedding. Whatever “slamming the head joint is”, it’s a no from me.
very poor job this guy. classic american contractor. this woudnt fly even for a first year student here in Europe.