THE FLASH RIP CURRENTS CAUSED BY A RISING LONG PERIOD SWELL IN HAWAII
2024 ж. 31 Нау.
122 231 Рет қаралды
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See some comments talking about the Like/Dislike of localism, i guess my take is i dont really mind it even when i travel and i am not the local, i dont skip the line at new spots, i guess a great way to explain it would be, there is a group of people waiting in line, they are taking turns amongst themselves, then someone comes up who doesnt know they are taking turns amongst themselves or doesnt care, he skips the line, but he doesnt know where to sit and because of that could become a danger to himself or those around him, say he doesnt tho (become a danger he just takes the next wave), he still skipped the line he may get a talking to now days, but what he doesnt realize is in that line its set up in a way that some have priority in positioning in that line because they have the experience and have been doing it for a very long time, thats just how it works at that specific place, but if you wanted, you could go to another place that has no line, but you dont cause you want to be at this specific spot, therefore you should except that that spot comes with conditions. dont want to deal with it? put your own time in to earn the spot in line like everyone else did, or go to another spot that has no line at all and enjoy all the waves! for context i travel to many heavily localized waves around the world, i dont skip by everyone i wait my turn, and most times im looking for a wave nobody else wants, when i am not i understand my turn may be skipped several times even though i am waiting ive had it happen before i usually just go somewhere else, or continue waiting to eventually get one. happens to me in australia alot lol i dont cry about it, but maybe once at north point i got frustrated lol, just a part of surfing specific areas. idk if you feel differently or agree, reply below ill do my best to answer any questions
i like the voiceover on the pov
I don't think you need to apologise. I agree with you 100%. Don't go to a place like North Point, Padang Padang, Pipe etc and expect to paddle out the back and be on the sets. These are the most localised waves in the world and people have earned the right to sit at the top of the pecking order after many years of paying their dues. Plenty of other less localised spots to surf like you say.
@@davel4708 yeah not apologizing just explaining that its just the way the cookie crumbles sometimes, i see you understand it!
@@NathanFlorence Do you think there has been a cultural change in the surf on The North Shore over the last twenty years or so? I did my first trip there last year (at age 51!) and I had a great time. The vibe seemed pretty relaxed and friendly. I guess it could go differently if visitors act disrespectfully, but for me I had no problems. My theory was to be mellow and friendly and let the locals have their waves. In a few cases people even started calling me into waves after a while. Show respect to get respect seems like the mantra in Hawaii. I think you guys set the standard for the rest of the world in a lot of ways. Hawaiians are always welcome here in NZ as far as I'm concerned.
Localism is 100% necessary in surfing. There’s no etiquette at places like snapper and trestles and now those amazing waves are just shit shows. At a place like Pipe I feel like this priority/pecking order is 100% necessary to keep it safe out there! Super sketch wave.
the narrated POV is pretty sick, definitely do more of those if you have the time and patience, very insightful
Thanks, will do!
Agreedb
@@NathanFlorence felt like the inside of my head at the local break but at the highest performance wave on the planet. Great vid effort as usual, kept up being you.
Hurraaaa on that one!! So much to learn from this single video about pipe!
@@NathanFlorencemore narrated pov please. So sick thanks man
I love Ivans priorities.Stay and get waves.True surfer
Like his cat. Reminds me of my cat..
This is my favourite format, the pov and long shot footage plus the commentary is a good mix
The narration is incredible, and super interesting. There is so much nuance to every sport; really wild to get to hear the voice over from someone as talented/skilled/dedicated as you. Thank you.
So much knowledge and story packed into one video. This is gourmet surf content amigos
Please please please do more narration/commentary love hearing your reasonings and explanations of all the little details. Been following along for awhile now and love to see the evolution of your channel, heal up Nate!!🦾🦾
I agree, I’ve spent 40 years surfing different breaks around Australia,some well known some more isolated, and the last thing you want to do is piss off the locals,I always take the inside position to watch whats going on, then slowly pick off a few inside ones and maybe work my way out a bit depending on how heavy the wave and the locals are. Respect goes a long way in traveling Thanks Jules
i do the same thing when i travel!!
Raw videos have become my favorite videos, because it shows us what a surfer really does and how he solves problems out there. Congrats and Banzai
I would love to see a video breakdown of the nuances regarding the lineup, hierarchy and proper behavior at pipe. (maybe there already is one) Found that part particularly fascinating.
Wow Nathan...I've been following you for awhile, & this is by far the best solo surfing live narration & the further commentary (particularly regarding Pipe Politics & negotiating the lineup) which I've seen...really brought the entire situation into a very clear focus...sorry about your close encounter with the rock 🪨...stay safe out there Braddah, & Mahalo once again...Aloha
Glad your OK and hopefully it heals up nicely. Loved the vid and chat of the line up etiquette. It is such a heavy and iconic wave that you guys must get many people who probs shouldn’t be out there at times. I was thinking it is good to see a few dudes wearing helmets. I have worn them at heavy spots and once one duck diving i got spun around in the pocket and drilled straight into the reef. Hit it perfectly, cracked the helmet and didn’t twist or hurt my neck. Another time hit the reef perfectly on my arse cheek, put my on crotches but was the best part of the body to absorb the impact. Those days are gone for now so I love just watching from afar. I never charged as hard as you guys but I can appreciate the power you all deal with. Thanks for taking us along for the ride. Cheers from Western Australia
One time many years ago when I was much younger surfing at Chun's Reef, I had the same thing happen to me. Almost took my life. We used to call them step-ladder sets.... This was well before people knew anything about swells and predictions.. You guys have it so good now. Keep surfing brother! 🤙
Yep! Each set is bigger then the one before!
Brilliant POV with excellent narration. 🙏🏼 Speedy recovery 💫
Loved this perspective felt like I was out there with you! Also helpful how you explained where everyone was sitting where they should be based on experience. Bummer about your face glad it wasn’t worse! I look forward to more of these types of videos! Mahalo 🤙
Get well soon for you and Buddy
Best POV I've seen... it's Pipeline; getting the inside scoop from a veteran. The descriptive word/s of what Pipe is really like are many, which just makes this vid all the more compelling.
As someone who doesn't understand the ins and outs of surfing, I appreciate you explaining how everything works. (how the lines work & the types of waves). It really adds an entire new dimension to your videos for a desert dweller like myself.
Damn i hope you heal fast. Love how this vid shows the actual north shore pro surfers lifestyle. Keep doing them please.
This was the best video. I love that you guys are sharing all your surf and North Shore experiences, and I just want to say thanks!
love from the mainland❤❤ sorry to hear about ur injury! love ur videos
Thoroughly enjoyed the blow by blow description of how you read the waves what you’re thinking how you maneuvering in the crowd and the overall strategy. The situation awareness is amazing. Thanks for letting us join your Surf session, pretty cool. He well my friend.
thanks boss
Aww get well legend! Love thoose videos, without injuries better.. but keep going, this videos are sick. Will love to see you chasing some swells here in spain! Fast recovery champ
Going to be dreamin' about that tree stand post-up sunset perch that Ivan was zenning out in. Blessed. ☀️✨✨
Fkn amazing video man. Really enjoyed the POV/voiceover. Priceless knowledge!
That was really good narration of some of the ins and outs of the pipe lineup, nice work Nathan. Great vid as always. Hope you're doing/feeling better.
Loving this POV with commentary. Good job Braddah! 🤙🏾
Good to see your okay, you’ll be back out there soon , think you’ll get a couple more days this season but only time will tell, take care God Bless
Expert advice. Thank you.
Thank goodness not worse! Always love seeing & hearing NS surf, thank you. Happy Slabbings Tour!
Classic narration..love it!!
Thanks man, really enjoyed this POV and narration. Double scoop FTW!!
That was your best POV session on your vlog,really enjoy your hard work😎
Awesom format Nate! Keep it going!!
Got rocked by the rock! Glad you’re ok! Had my share over the years! After you heal silicone patch works good for healing and non scarring
Thanks for the show 👏
So cool to see your perspective of Pipe, thank you.
Btw the long period waves in a growing swell is due to long period waves traveling faster in deep water. A storm generates waves over a range of periods, lets say for example most of the energy from the storm goes into 10-15s period waves, but a bit also in 15s-20s waves. The 15s-20s waves travel faster and will reach the shore a bit before the main swell at 10-15s. So the long period swell arrives early to announce the arrival of the main swell.
Love this narrated POV super interesting to hear loved it
There are so many techniques that you use out there. I love the POV play by play. You describe everything so well that if you sat Mr Cool down in front of this video he could learn a thing or two 🤣 haha kidding of course. Always good to see Buddy 🐈⬛ He’s one tough customer and so are you. Sorry you had a face smash. Hope it heals quick. Thanks for the great video Nate!
Wow bro, keep up the content, love from brazil!
The line up insight and the overview of all the nuances about this spot you know so well is all time.
So much insight into your local break years of experience very interested thank you
Respect my man, thanks for sharing the stoke.
You are the guru Nathan, nice to hear your insight on how difficult it is to navigate this lineup. Most top to bottom waves of consequence are harder to read, earning your spot in a lineup is definitely something that needs to be implemented everywhere🤙 Where’s a good place to sit at pipe to learn and become more familiar without being a kook and getting in the way?
Thanks for your vids Nath 👍
This format with voice over is awesome, would love to see more!
Love the commentary on positioning, insider surfer speed bumps, and priority politics!
Thank you Nathan
I really like this laid-back educational format
I’ve been surfing for 50 years and your POV Go prop give a real insight into surfing this famous wave thanks
so much going on in the line up that you don't know about or see from shore or as a novice. Not your average surf video. Really enjoyed it.
Heal up Nate. Even the old-dogs who are riding along with you get perspective and inspiration from your epic experiences and narrative. Stay groovy, positive and aware.
Thanks! Will do!
The narration and commentary was great. Interesting to hear the perspective and reasoning of a professional surfer. Refreshing to see some long distance shots, also.
Heal fast 🙏 Glad it wasn't more serious. Thanks for another epic vid.
Awesome analysis. Narration was really cool 🤙 Really sorry about the injury tho
Super informative. So many subtleties and nuances the average cat can’t see. Hope your face heels clean and speedy. ✌️
Hey thanks for the narration. Many videos just run music and I never seem to get thru those unless the music is really good. But the explanations are fantastic
All the best with the healing there Nate
Great insight into what you have to do time, effort and commitment and years and years of it a proper trade 👍
This was epic. Loved this narration style paddle along surf…heal up 🤙
Narration is great, alot of insight into your world out there at pipe
firstly, i hope you are feeling ok, no after effect concussion or strangeness. it is such a good thing that the face rock slam was not worse than it was, because that could have been catastrophic if positioned just a bit differently. secondly, i hope mr kitty is well and healing also, and does not get sick or infections from that damn dog bite or scratches or whatever injured him. please report once he is completely healed so we can sigh a relief that he is fine. and maybe change that bandage and keep an eye on him and if things look iffy, seek vet assistance. and maybe try to keep mean dogs away from him :) and wow, other than the aforementioned, this video was EPIC. that narration over the POV was so great. what a generous gift of your time and attention, and opportunity to learn and gain valuable perspective, and as one other commenter stated, insight. that was a session masterclass for sure, and a real treat. thank you :) that deep foam ball barrel was excellent, as were other rides, but that for sure as an extra good one. so cool. slab tour sounds crazy. slabs scare me as much as reefs do. be safe :)
Get well soon. That was great video!
I like this video man.. You guys are so many level above me even tho I've been surfing for 15 years. So it's rad to see and hear your perspective. 💪😎
You’re the man Nate!
Awesome vid as usual . . like the double scoop technique!
Thanks for the play by play. Sorry you got hurt. Speedy recovery brother!)
I love the narrated style that you did this in because I’m not a surfer. I just like to watch it, and I understand a lot about it. Ive been in the ocean most of my life fishing and stuff but it’s really cool to hear what’s going on out there surfing because you guys make it look easy and I know it’s not because I know Pipe is one of the most dangerous waves in the world, so it’s easy to be fooled by watching you and Jamie O’Brien and the other pro surfers in content creators.
More of these videos please they are so cool. I am able to watch a Hawaiian sunset with surfing legends form the other side of the world
Yes its good to have you
“You don’t deserve to be on this wave” Lol. Hawaiians come to my local spot and pretend they own the spot too. Must be the aloha spirit I hear all about
bad eggs in every group, i never do that when i travel
@@NathanFlorence I always ask myself, what would Chicken Joe 420 do?
Man, you perfectly described my home break and probably many others too. The swell is only mutated in Kona and is barely ridable. Low tide reef runners. When someone is always sitting too close to me I call them my dingoberry. Damn unknowns and rocks where they're not supposed to be putting everyone in danger.
Highly interesting and insightful, especially for those of us who have never and will never surf Pipe 🍻
Great commentary, it adds depth to the why's, when's, and wherefore's that reading a swell requires. When traveling back thru Oahu, I would take a redeye to Honolulu just to be able to sit on the beach (worth the cost) and watch the lineup before getting back to Honolulu to make the late afternoon Mokulele flight back to Molokai. If the swell worked, I would sit further up the beach as I love Backdoor and then be able to watch you guys handle the swell...great video, thanks for the edit and commentary...dj
clean stuff maaan 👏👏👏
This narration and dissection of pipe is next level for people who dont surf. Nice work
thanks
It's even more next level for people who do surf but aren't at Nathan's level. Fantastic video!
whew happens when least expected glad your still in the game
Cameraman hand in the beg.: 3. POV narrated 10. Overall video: 10. Just like we like it. Thanks Nathan
hahaha not the best camera man
I guess we all have that one friend that is always waiting for the perfect conditions not going out there - but I agree with @nathan - just go out there
Great POV and commentary. Looks like I'll have no problem not ever surfing Pipeline. I'd get 0 waves here vs. 10 waves at my usual spot 20 minutes away😁 Less injuries too 🤙
Another great video. We all like the narration! That backdoor foam hop barrel was badass! Get some vitamin e to rub on the wound to reduce scars. Aloha!
I agree with the time it takes to learn a break. It takes many years and many swells to learn the conditions and the way to watch for signs. I move around a lot and slide into position and can see the guys I'm paddling by wondering what I'm doing; then boom my wave rolls in!!! Very cool commentary.... when I see someone is in the spot yes they get the priority and get the one they want. There are days even at the local spot when it's easy for some to spend the day shoulder hoping, most the time it's dangerous to just surf by those guys because of the speed of my drop-in from the correct position becomes more dangerous, if shoulder dropping keeps happening I usually leave, sometimes a dirty look helps but UN-locals, like at Newport 56th, Trestles, South side pier and seal is just too dangerous and it's time to let it go and leave. Understanding the line ups is a very big part of the surfing experience and can make a day so good, or so bad. I left my breaks to pay for school and become a provider of medical healthcare, visited pipe and such after say 46 yrs of surfing I went inland and got a good education supposedly, I'm surviving watching the slab tours, I shot 35mm long before digital was even a gleam in the eye, sometime I'm going back to being a badass in the line up again. Thanks Florence boys, Nathan for keeping it real until then, oh shit I just saw your head hit that rock! So get better holy crap and the eye is a dangerous place to get hit I hope you are all right - get some rest
Excellent format nathan... keeps this old man saying. "Are you not entertained "
Get well soon!! still have the looks of a super model
Great illustration of how things work at Pipeline. Sorry about the injury.
Nice video nate❤. Good to see ivan agein ..
Love this video style!
Mahalo for the video, the commentary and hope your face heals up quickly. You are a luck SOB that nothing more serious occurred. I'm a big surfer, 6'7", 265 pounds, short boards and I don't mix, my shortboard is 10'...(: In your comments, you answered a long standing question I have always had and that is if I ever got the opportunity to surf at Pipeline, could I just sit way on the outside on a longboard and go for waves breaking on the outside reefs, away from the pack... I respect the fact that surfers have to earn the right of passage in the line up at Pipeline and the outside position is also reserved for those that have earned that right to do so.... I just always thought it would be really cool to just catch one wave on an outside reef, then call it good and to be able to say I have surfed Pipeline! Stay safe!
Btw the narration allows you to give an insight. Dig it.
The voiceover is awesome. More of that please.
I hope you heal up quickly .
Great video, thoughtful naratation, sucks you got hurt.
Got sucked in to the choob for the whole 40mins. Great video 10/10
haha thanks for watching it was a long one
Geeze that is a mega breakdown. Like another commented here below me very insightful indeed. Banger video
So interesting! I spent 6 months on Oahu many years ago and spent a lot of time on the NS. I knew that rogue waves could come in and be very dangerous. My ex-hubs spent his teens surfing in Hawaii and his swim coach would take them surfing. One day at Pipe his friend was out in smaller waves when a 12' set came in and killed him. As an East Coast surfer unused to dealing with reefs or channels I had a very healthy respect for the power of these waves. Best moment of the trip (in 1979) was getting an overhead wave at Leftovers. Surfed plenty of hurricanes but the power of that wave was like nothing I had ever experienced. The centrifugal force just spread my arms out like wings. Great memory!
Ouch, hope you're healing up!
koa's wave was sick...i was so happy for him. you look like you went 12 rounds with mike tyson!! grateful the rock didn't punch you directly in the eye...that was pretty close. maybe just a reminder that every moment and every wave is precious...nothing is guaranteed. your backside, no rail grab drop was cool...as was your voice over commentary. i think everyone appreciates when someone they respect encourages them to 'go' on a wave...it confirms your position, and discourages 'tourists' by letting everyone know that someone is going. i enjoyed your explanation of the outside peak, and who deserves to be there and who doesn't. stay healthy!
Legend.
great content love the format more like that would be cool hope tyour face healed quickly tidy mun as we say in Wales
"Nate hit the bottom on his face" lol Koa.