Complete linear rails conversion of CR-10 3d printer
Full conversion of a CR-10 3d printer to linear rails. On each axis I have 2 linear rails, including the X-axis. This is not needed, however I decided to do it for more rigidity and to be able to attach heavier direct drives. Here are the linear rails I used:
Y-axis: 2x500mm MGN12 w. 2 H carriages
Z axis: 2x 500mm MGN12 w. 1 H carriage
X axis : 1x400mm MGN12H + 1x400mm MGN9H
I bought the rails from RobotDigg and Hiwin (MGN12 on the X axis) and I am very happy with their quality. There are cheaper rails and maybe they are OK for a 3d printer, but I didn’t want to risk with noname brands.
Check the linear rails prices:
Amazon: amzn.to/2WYLP3p (affiliate link)
Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d8x... or here for Hiwin: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d6a...
For black oxydized linear rails check the ones from RobotDigg s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9yOk2s. I used them om my DIY Voron Switchwire 3d printer shown here • Voron Switchwire - 3d ... , and they were quite cheap for the quality.
Other parts and printed parts:
Y axis:
2x460mm 2020 extrusion (buy 1m and cut it) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dUw...
Gates-LL-2GT 9mm belt 100cm (I bought 110cm to have some extra) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dVm...
2020 aluminum profile triangle connectors s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dWy...
9 or 10 mm timing belt pulley (5mm bore) 20 teeth s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXq...
9 or 10 mm idler 20 teeth www.aliexpress.com/item/32738...
Printed spacers 7mm (link soon)
Printed Y endstop&stepper holder www.thingiverse.com/thing:426...
Drilling template www.thingiverse.com/thing:426...
Y tensioner for 9mm belt: www.thingiverse.com/thing:347...
Check also this alternative solution for the Y axis if you want to avoid drilling the hotbed support (comes with Hiwin rails at good price): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dTQ...
X-axis:
2xM3 idlers 16 teeth
1xM5 idler 20 teeth
Modified X tensioner, Carriage for MGN12 and MGN9 and modified “Tank” print head, Modified front X motor plate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:425...
This direct drive is for BMG or Trianglelab dual drive extruder: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dTb...
// Check also my adaptation of the Voron Afterburner direct drive for CR10 if you want different print head: www.thingiverse.com/thing:430... - see it in action here • Afterburner direct dri... //
Z-axis:
Mounting elements for the right side of the gantry:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:297...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:374... (CR-10 only, alows to implement dual Z with one stepper)
Mounting element for the left side: www.thingiverse.com/thing:425...
Frame braces: www.thingiverse.com/thing:311... + modified top right part (for CR-10 and dual Z with 1 stepper) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:426...
You will need also some M3 bolts and nuts with various sizes, M3 T-nuts (buy at least 50) and M5 T-nuts (buy set of 20)
Leaving a comment for the YT algorithm. 😂This is amazing! Thank you for leaving links to all the products as this is an upgrade I'm looking to complete myself after having just installed a MicroSwiss NG direct drive extruder, klipper firmware, and CRtouch onto my CR10V2!
Hi, this mod was one of the first linear rails mods for cr10. Probably check for better more recent designs on thingiverse. BTW I have upgraded the Z linear rails mounts 2-3 years back with mounts inspired by voron switchwire www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859887
Thankyou for this mod and detailed write up. Will be doing this to my CR10v3
Great job and very informative! I've been considering changing out my Y axis after having to change the wheels. Have been wondering how involved that would be and this video answered that perfectly.
Very nicely done! Thank you for sharing!
great guide, very detailed ! love it.
I'm thinking about a similar conversion! The counterarguments! If the wheels are properly adjusted, bl touch is not necessary. I don't have to adjust the height for every print either, and I don't need to since the wheels have been properly tensioned. On the other hand, the four-piece bearing carriage is an exaggeration and an extremely large extra weight compared to the wheels, which makes it impossible to increase the speed, because it causes a ringing! If you don't want to increase speed, you are only concerned about quality, there are videos where they compare pom wheels with linear bearing and there is no significant improvement in base speed. There, they concluded that the flexibility of the wheels can sometimes even dampen the traces of vibrations. I would try a maximum of two bearings, but the solution of one rail and one bearing would also be interesting, how much sway does the table allow!?
Great video! Also quite impressive how you manage to print so well PC, ABS and PC-ABS.
Thanks, it is strange, but PC ABS is actually very easy to print (easier than ABS and much easier than PC). Somehow this material doesnt shrink too much when cooling down and provides excelent dimensional stability. For ABS and PC the key is to use heated enclosure.
Excellent idea! if you change the x-y drivers to TMC2209 and use the sensorless feature, you'll get rid off the x and y endstop sensors also.
This is a cool project. I don't have a cr10 but I have been 🤔 about doing similar to my Tevo Tarantula Pro. I am considering a Voron build.
I was looking up to modify my cr-10 s5 with linear rails with slide block also. I ran into your video before ordering my rails. So this video help me with cost. This setup would be less expensive compared to my linear rail modification. Thanks for all the info.
How did your S5 upgrade go? There is a sled you can buy that is worth it to me, as the sled on my CR10 bed was bent and crappy. You can see the sled as part of this kit, but you can buy it on its own. 3dfused.com/product/cr-10-s5-y-axis-linear-rail-kit/
Hi, I really appreciate the work you have done, you have provided very detailed information with beautiful video shots and stl files which are necessary and very useful for me. I am about to build a printer with frame and measures similar to the Cr10 but 330x330 printing plate and Lerdge K electronics that can manage double z axis and (possibly) double extruder. I was interested in the solution with linear guides for not having frequent maintenance and greater precision and you gave me excellent ideas and suggestions to continue my work. Thanks, greetings from Treviso (Italy)
Subscribed! Going to build a Voron soon as well! Hoping to go with 2.4 if I see you have a journey that is not from hell lol
Can you show a closeup picture of the Y-axis motor mount? I can't figure out how to install the printed mount. Thank you.
Great Job! Just a question about the mounts for the Z axis: How have you been able to put the rail and the cursor wich combined have have a thickness of 13mm between the 2040 profile and the horizontal screw? Im my printer between the profile and the screw there's less than 10mm of space.. thanks Andrea
Have you noticed better print quality? Printed parts are okay to use for the cr10? It's a big printer
LOOKS AWESOME, HAVE A CR10S IM WANTING TO UPGRADE. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?
Hello, does adding a modification on the X axis reduce the working area of the table along the Y axis? Will the working area of the table decrease?
I'd be very interested in getting the STL file for the spacers!
Hello - I am doing this now on my CR10s (add y-axis linear rail) and I noticed there is no link for the printer spacers on the y-axis - will you be able to update and provide link Excellent video and easy to follow!
Where can I find these for my cr10 s5 ? Length pls help
Was the height of the Y-axis stepper the same as stock?
What are the dimensions of the Y axis spacers that go between the linear rail carriages and the bed frame? They are shown at 6:22.
Здравей и благодаря за видеото, изключително полезно за моя ъпгрейд с релси. Само едно нещо не разбрах, защо инсталираш и втора MGN9 релса на X ?
what is this '2xM3 idlers 16 teeth 1xM5 idler 20 teeth'? they are like idler using y axis? don't you change x belt?
Why did you use the H carriage instead of C ?
Did you changed the frame on the Y axis?
Great video, thanks! Did your bed height relative to the frame decrease when using 7mm spacers? I'm thinking I need about 11mm spacers to continue using the existing belt system (and maintain compatibility with my particular hotend setup) unless I'm missing something.
Yes, you've got it right. The bed is lower now about 5mm. You'll need z-axis endstop with adjustable height.
Just to add that I lowered the bed to have the 9mm belt as parallel as possible, because it moves now directly on 9mm pulley and idler with theet. The original Y-stepper mount had also an idler without theet to increase the height of the belt and this one has been removed in my setup.
@@3dpblog thanks very much
@@3dpblog gotcha, thanks. I'm running my x rail on top of the extrusion and have a custom quick change mount that is really short for extra rigidity. If I lower my bed at all my current hot end can't reach the bed when the x gantry hits my z stepper mounts. I'll see how it goes with the stock 6mm belt setup and if I have to go 9mm I'll figure something out. I appreciate the explanation.
@@lorenkln I cut notches in my z stepper mounts to get the Z low enough.
Y axis 7mm spacer STL?
Watched the video twice, just because of the music 😅
Страхотно !
I'm wondering about if you got a speed increase. It's a super cool conversion. I have a cr10 v3 and it's worked 2 months since June. They've sent me enough spare parts to build a second one. Yet my dirt cheap ender that I molded slightly is a tank. I never have to level it a d it doesn't have abl. I've been on creality hard about my cr10 being a lemon. I'm quite adept at the mechanics, electronics and the software side. I'm going to get it working and sell it. Creality are saying they're going to give me the new ender 3 pro at cost but I'm leaning toward a 2.4.
I print at max 100mm/s and only 1000 mm/s2 acceleration on this printer. This is the max speed to get good quality with relatively heavy direct extruder on this frame. On my Voron 2.4 / Trident I normally print also at 100mm/s, but 3000 acceleration. It can go stable up to 300mm/s, but there are overheating issues and it needs modifications to the printhead to be able to cool faster
@@3dpblog that's pretty good for the cr10. The fastest I ever went was 60mms. Thank you for answering, I appreciate it
Hi! I just want to ask if you're using direct extruder or remote extruder? how fast can you print with this modifications and the quality of the print?
Hi, I use direct extruder because it allows me to print more materials. Quality is great for speeds up to 60 mm/s and OK for 80mm/s. I wouldn't go faster with cartesian printer and direct, because it generates vibrations in the frame and the print quality suffers, especially for tall prints.
@@3dpblog I'm planning to do these linear rail upgrades then change my direct extruder to remote extruder and try to print faster. Thanks a lot for these walk through upgrades. Liked and subscribed to your channel.
Hi, Thank you so much for your detailed explainatory video. I got questions about your linear railed 3d printer. Is CR-10 3D printer you bought from creality make and built it from a whole kit or did you make on your own DIY 3d printer from collecting all the parts on your own? I got motivated to buy all the parts on my own . so i got them all but they are all different individual parts where i got from different sources. how can i make DIY linear railed 3d printer on my own ?
The cr-10 was my 1st printer back in 2016, so yes I bought a printer and I medded it after. BTW this video is quite old. The printer now has few more additions... Back to your question, it is fairly easy to build your own printer from scratch out of aluminum profiles, motors, control board, belts, idlers, commercial hotbed, extruder and hotend. All you need are good tools for driling/tapping and a second 3d printer to print mounts, braces and other parts. There are many open source projects for printers with linear rails, like BLV (check Thingiverse) or Voron (I built all of their printers - check my other videos) and few others.
@@3dpblog thank you mr. 3dp blog. i do sincerely appreciate your kind and explanatory comment. thank you for your time spent.
Have you noticed any difference in terms of quality?
Is the Z axis upgrade only for not needing ABL? I'd rather not go through the hassle since the Z axis isnt moving all that much.
Nope it has nothing to do with ABL. Yes, you are right, Z is not that important. I did it because I wanted maintenance free setup.
Just to clarify for the ABL. It is true that the system is so rigid that you dont need an ABL once you leveled the bed, but there are other situations that require to re-level, like changing the build surface or the layer height. I implemented ABL again, because I am changing my build surface often.
Hello Dear Doctor sir. Thank you for your files and videos shared online. i do really appreicate it. after suceess, i will donate you some money to let you feel advocated. i got a question sir. i bought aluminium profiles exactly pieces and rough sizes as required as your video, there is all 3d print outs all provided by you can fit on 20x20 aluminium profiles all well right ? i am concerned if Z axis gantry file on thingiverse wont be able to hold and fasten 20x20 profile on right mount (right side) thank you !
Plus , I do understand the most uptodate one is Voron as you told me before. but i got all the profiles cut to make CR-10 now....
Hi, this video is for modifying existing cr10 from v-wheels motion to linear rails. It is not a video to build a printer from scratch. If you want to build cartesian printer from scratch, check on thingiverse for some projects. You can maybe use the Ender BLV or Anet BLV projects for all printed parts (mounts, printhead, etc.) and adapt the lenght of the linear rails to the lenght of your profiles.
@@3dpblog Oh okay. thank you for the clarification. i will look further in Ender BLV or Anet BLV projects... many thanks to you sir. you helped a lost guy in this field. i do believe there will be many fortunes and happiness around you and your family. !
Hey man still waiting for the Spacer STL files
Hi, The spacer between mgn12h carriage and the bed carriage? Here is what I used: drive.google.com/file/d/1Qj9XTM5TL9red1K8P7oonDd4QlyxZpYG/view?usp=sharing You need 4 of them.
@@3dpblog nice one thank you very much
There is a screw in the place where the linear rail carriage is supposed to go
Where? Which axis are you refering to?
3dp blog the right z axis. The metal plate has 2 screws to mount it to the extrusion of the X axis. One of them is right where the carriage is
@@lucasvanbeers9906 Oh, yes, I remember this one (sorry, it has been a whil). I dont use this screw. You still have 2 screws to the 2020 extrusion (one where was the excentric V-wheel and the left one). They are close one to another, but the gantry is stable. If you want absolutelly to have a 2nd screw on the other end of the metal plate, you'll have to make a new hole close to the carriage.
3dp blog ah thanks a lot! Will do that too!
3dp blog oh and do you have a link for the spacers?
Why did you use 2 rails on X ?
Because I use to mount heavy motors on the extruder to get around the motors overheating when printing PC at 80C temp in the enclosure. Now I switched to single rail with 25mm HT stepper from LDO (up to 180C) - will post a video soon abt my new setup.
Hi, here is my AB version for 1 MGN12 rail: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4829683
How can the belt for the Y axis be only 110mm?!? The length of the rails are 460mm. You need to go under and then part way over so at least 600mm?
Hi, it is a mistake of course. It is maybe 110cm. I have to check. Thanks for pointing this out.
I measured the belt. 100cm (1m) is ok (the motor and the tensioner pulleys are 58cm away, then there are the fixings to the bed support). I use 110cm to have some spare under the bed to shift the belt if it gets used in the most used areas.
@@3dpblog Thank you. I wanted to know how long a belt to buy with an extra length. So 2M is good or longer?
@@felixsu375 For the Y axis where I use 9mm belt 1m is Ok. With 2m you'll have 1 spare belt.
@@3dpblog Thank you. Those special belts aren't cheap.
Great modification... Just a small bit of help with your English pronunciation... Idler is pronounced "Eyed-ler"
Thank you. Good learning point. BTW, all my videos have subs, in case you don't catch what I'm saying.
OMG! You should call the Video: "How to make a solid and good Printer to a piece of trash"
For me my machine is more solid and better than ever. I have hundreds of printing hours since this mod and I enjoy maintenance free and precise operation. Speed is limited with direct drive, but I prefer quality over speed anyway. I would like to have some explanation for your comment, but tbh I dont care much, as I better know the before and the after.
@@3dpblog I only see your prints in the videos and they are everything but not good print quality. I upgraded my cr10 with a skr 1.3 and tmc2208 driver and put the electronics from the external box under the printer. Rest of it is stock and it prints much better quality than I saw in your videos.
@@s.c.4363 It depends what you compare. I print mainly ABS and at layer height at least 0.2. The smallest nozzle I use is 0.6. So compare what is comparable. And maybe quality is not the right word, because it depends on so many things and also on how you tune the profile to a specifique print. It is more about what you can print reliably with your printer. I have perfect first layer every time and dont remember when I last had a failed ABS print. I print also polycarbonate with quite high success rate. This is not due to this mod only of course, but linear rails do increase the reliability. The gantry on the stock cr-10 was a joke. Tightenning the v-weels every few prints to avoid the play? No thanks.
@@3dpblog OK, now I understand what you prefer. Please don't misunderstand me. To watch you creativity is awesome. I only don't like the quality of the print results and that's why I don't understand to spend this money to decrease the quality. For me the beste build plate is the stock Glas with a build tak surface. I used 80 sandpaper and than 200. Now every material stick on it like hairs on a wet piece of soap :D How much money you invest in your cr10 until now? Why you don't buy a prusa or maybe a caribou 420?
Haha, a lot over 4 years, but it's been a lot of fun also tinkering the printer. Prusa is a no go for me, but i am using their magnetic bed in the Voron switchwire I build right now. I needed a second printer and first I thought I can go with an Ender3 v2 and upgrade it with normal bmg extruder and e3d hotend, but then decided to build what I need from scratch. I think this is the best to do, because creality and prusa are after optimising costs (especially creality) and their printers will be aways average. Building a 3d printer today is like building a computer. So this is the way I am taking. But yeah, I have some more upgrade projects for the CR-10 also. It doesnt print peek... yet. All the best.