Wood 6x6 in concrete VS steel anchor (8 years later!) ROTTING! Deck support posts
On Amazon:
*6x6 POST BASE: amzn.to/2QyJrel
*4x4 POST BASE: amzn.to/2wu7W36
*STAINLESS SIMPSON 6X6 BASE: amzn.to/39e93FJ
*USE THIS INSTEAD OF CONCRETE: amzn.to/382udWz
~My Fix For The Posts: • ROTTING DECK POST SOLU...
~Video on my Conduit Railings: • Conduit Railings with ...
@RRBuildings agrees with me: • Post Rot is real
Before making an ignorant comment, please read below.
*This is my personal deck and while I know these posts would have lasted MANY years to come, I didn't want to deal with replacing them when Im retired.
*I know from previous experience once rot gets to this level and all of the pressure treating is gone, the bugs love to get in there and things accelerate dramatically.
*The point of this clip: show you a side by side comparison of wood in concrete vs steel hardware 8 years later.
*YES, if you have better pressure treating or you coat the posts with motor oil, tar, etc they will last a whole lot longer in concrete!
*Did i waste my time/money doing this repair? IMO no, concrete is cheap and my labor is free. It only took me a day to repair and it looks much nicer with concrete footers.
*Are there benefits to putting wood in the ground? YES! Increased lateral load resistance.
*Location and soil type is a huge factor on how long YOUR wood will last in the ground. ( I happen to have very moist clay soil and a lot of termites in my area)
*Do i have issues? YES! I'm plagued with trying to make things perfect and build things to last at least a hundred years. sometimes I wish I wasn't this way, but unfortunately I am! it makes me happy to overkill and build things right... no matter how many tries it takes me or how much money I waste on it. (consider it a hobby i suppose) `
~~~~~Help Support the Channel Below~~~~~
~Subscribe Here: kzhead.info...
~Follow on Instagram: / nononsenseknowhow
~Donate via Paypal: www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
~Shop on Amazon from this Link: amzn.to/2uDE6eT
~My Gear/Tools on Amazon: amzn.to/36S6J6s
*I get a small commission on any purchases made through the Amazon affiliate links on this page. Doesn't cost you any extra and helps me to continue producing content. Thanks!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Other AWESOME Channels You Should Check Out:
~South Main Auto Repair LLC: / @southmainauto
~BleepinJeep: / bleepinjeep
~Project Farm: / @projectfarm
~Chris Fix: / @chrisfix
~Andrew Camarata: / @andrewcamarata
~Humble Mechanic: / humblemechanic
~Essential Craftsman: / @essentialcraftsman
~EricTheCarGuy: / ericthecarguy
~Sailing Doodles: / @sailingdoodles
You totally changed the way I planned to start a pole barn this year or any outdoor shed for that matter, thanks!
Important to note that even though there was some rot in the 6x6, it still had another 10 years of life left in it. The right way is keeping the post out of the concrete but in reality almost everything is overbuilt and replaced before the end of its life, usually from a remodel or demolition.
Best video on wood vs concrete. Worth the watch.
Good advice. When I built my deck myself 20 years ago, I put my posts on metal anchors on top of the concrete. I also put roofing shingles on top of the posts as well to keep water out of the top end. After all this time it’s still solid and my Trex looks new. Build it right the first time.
Previous deck was 6yr old, in concrete. Rot/ants were everywhere. I researched to exhaustion but settled with above concrete anchors. 6 or so years later and i have zero rot, solid as a rock. Im thankful i went with anchors. Alot easier to replace too if there ever is rot in the future.
I'm loving the comments from all the experts below. "I'd recommend replacing everything." "Should've used steel beams." "Should just cut a hole in your current deck, pour a concrete foundation for your hot tub, then put a border around your hot tub."
"I don't wanna deal with it when I'm older". My man, this is the story of my life in the old house I've bought and am renovating! I keep telling my wife "I'm in my 30's now and I'm sure as heck not going to feel like doing any of this 10+ years from now, so I'm building it right or overbuilding it now." I'm currently rebuilding my decks (yes, plural) that are rotted at the ledger and house band joist, so I know exactly what you're going through with this video. Great common sense stuff man, thanks for the vid!
Yeah man for sure. Do it right do it once. And if it fails again then at least you can say you gave it your best shot
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Too right! I'm on a sloped mountainside lot and the deck I'm currently repairing (new spreadbase footers, new 6x6s, actual beams (they laid a 2x6 on the flat at a 14' span for the middle "beam"), new hardware) and one side of the deck is about 4.5 feet off the ground while the other is about 16'. I'm going to have to pay a LOT of attention to my lateral bracing to make this sturdy. I'm also thinking of those lateral braces that Simpson makes that are basically all-thread bored through the house band joist with a bracket on a deck joist and one inside the house, preventing the deck from pulling away from the house. Your deck looks a lot lower, but do you plan on working any bracing into your design?
@@BrandonWest87 yeah my deck is only a little more than four feet off the ground. At 16 foot I would certainly make sure she has plenty of bracing. Mine is very rigid being attached to the house and I didn't see any need for additional bracing. Those Simpson strong ties are pretty amazing though. I used quite a few different Simpson steel brackets throughout mine
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Awesome work dude. Subbed!
@@BrandonWest87 thanks man I appreciate that. Good luck on your project!
Those 6x6 brackets sure are expensive. I'll buy them anyway. I need to beef up my front porch columns that are 4x4 with 6x6. Thank you so much for the heads up! KZhead is great.
Pulling that stump out with the jacks is genius
Great video man..Thanks for the heads up to the uninformed! I will definately be taking this vid into consideration when constructing my deck.
Concrete has lime which breaks down organic materials like wood. If you're setting wood in concrete, you need a protective barrier so it won't rot. You can staple tar paper to the post or paint tar on it wherever it will be touching cement.
Steve Legend Nope.. Not wrong.. Lime (calcium hydroxide) is a component of cement and is a caustic powder that hastens the decay of organic matter. This is why a builder puts a layer of roofing tar paper over a foundation before laying a sill plate. Concrete rots wood.
@@huggybear539 It's only a component of poorly made cement. At my grandmother's house, the cellar and welltop my grandfather made in 1941 is still perfect today, and he made concrete out of portland cement, sand, and crushed flint.
Thanks for the video. Contractors seem to think wood to concrete is OK, but your video just reiterated to me what direction I need to go in.
Glad it helped point you in the right direction! Thanks for your comment. Wood is definitely fine in concrete as long as you don't mind replacing it 15 or 20 years later LOL. At least that's about how long it will last year in the Northeast where the ground is always moist. Out in Colorado or somewhere dry probably a different story
You guys got me cracking up so hard as I read through these comments. Love it.
Lmao
@@daviddou1408 I ended up digging all new footings and used galvanized post bases
I built a deck over 10 years ago for our above ground pool using nothing more than holes drilled in the ground with 6" of gravel packed in the bottom. I never thought we'd have the pool for 10 years and the deck is doing just fine. It is cheap and fast and disposable.
I built a Swing and Slide for my kids, I took it down last year, it had been up ten years, a lot of the ground contact wood was damaged pretty bad. I never knew. Take care
I built a 7,200sf mansion 450 years ago out of tongue depressors, used Q-Tips and Bazooka bubble gum wrappers. Starting to show a little ware........but for the most part it's holding up quite well.
Scott, That’s because you don’t know what you are doing...take care.
The posts look to be appearance grade, not meant for ground contact. Ground contact lumber is incised (injected with CCA .60 to meet AWPA UC4B). Any end cuts are treated with Copper-Green or similar products to prevent fungus, mold or insect intrusion into the wood fibers. Pole barn companies have been installing 4" x 6" and 6" x 6" treated post in the ground for decades.
What about telephone poles? They last forever. How are they treated? Railroad ties also, except they aren't buried.
Great video! Covered a lot! Good stuff. I didnt know you can pull up a support post!
When I set wooden posts in concrete I use roofing mastic and really heavyweight plastic trash bags. I coat the wood with mastic the cover the mastic with a trash bag to above earth carefully sealing the trash bag to the post. It keeps out the water and prevents damage from the lime in the concrete. Lime rapidly ages wood (rot).
The wife watering the flowers and the whole decking is to blame lol
Driveway sealer on posts below grade is one way to solve the moisture wicking issue. Cheap solution.
Enjoyed your notes on the video.
Some of these comments are ridic.. sure you didn't HAVE to repair it now but you are a good homeowner and share your wisdom on KZhead.. thanks for the vid man
Haha yeah seriously. I consider it more of a hobby. I enjoy repairing stuff before it breaks or deteriorates to nothing
Thank you! This video was informative and helpful. Greetings from Bosnia!
No problem and thanks for the comment! Greetings from Pennsylvania
It’s called thinking ahead. Getting it right the first time, if you know how, is always a lot less work than having to fix it later. Before you can do better, you have to know better. Excellent video. Thanks!
Thx buddy I was about to take a short cut but your video has made me change my mind 👍
yup , that is the correct time frame there. if i had built the deck , i would have notched all four sides of the post, done a water treatment overlay, then dipped the post [ that is going into the concrete] , then set it into place and poured the pad and let it cure. you would not be able to remove the post. lol [ and would have lasted way longer than 8 years ] . other people like to do the samething to shallow posts with no cement pad under the deck. same time frame [ 8 yrs ] then replace. the steel anchor plates will do the job, and make it last longer than 8 yrs. BUT, the wood will dry out faster unless it is marine treated.. . . or painted with a sealer every 2 or 3 years. awesome video !!
Question: how much space should you leave between footers for a 20x24ft 9ft tall cabin. Also you build the deck part first then build the cabin on top of that right? Just curious because i wanna build my own cabin 3 or 4 years from now and i think about it every day
If I'm using 12ft posts for shade sails, what would you suggest I do to secure the posts to the ground?
Great job buddy, very thorough
Good video. I see people in Alaska building remote cabins on wood all the time and then in 10-15 years they have the same rot issues as you had.
Thanks man. And yeah it's probably tough to get concrete out there I would assume
Thanks for showing this. My wife doesn't understand why I want to DIY so much (within reason) around the house. The "pros" are often amateurs with a bit more formality. That scumbag didn't even do proper footers? Jeez man. That's why I hired you! 🤔
You seem knowledgeable enough, just demo it and build the one you want. The right way.
I set a piece of tile on my saddles under post .Works great for last 40 years
Just commented that. What did that guy bury them?? ASMR?
Thanks for the post. Great examples.
Exact video I needed. Thanks!
I replaced a wood deck after many a rehab with a raised paver deck....no more wood rotting, sealing, staining etc. Worth the effort and looks beautiful, plus no chance of the old dreaded termite damage which occurs in California.
Wouldn't that apply only to a ground level deck?
8,000 videos on KZhead about this. This is the only one I've found that shows proof.
Haha yeah for sure! Crummy video quality but I knew it was a good example of the difference so I had to shoot a quick clip
not convinced, now had he cut the base of the post off which he will have to do to install a metal riser, he could've shown us the complete rot and if the middle of the post was just as bad then hed have a good case
well; I have a 12x20 deck me & dad built 32 years ago treated 4x4 2x10 frame posts set below frost line wood was treated from requarth lumber company Dayton ohio which they treat there lumber in house still solid today
This is good video man. I'll make sure I put loads of thick tar at the bottom of the post. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thanks buddy. And yeah that's a good call!
We have always use the bitumen as waterproof, never had any problems. And also all posts need to be treated with a exterior paint or other protection.
Yeah we had tract homes here in Sylmar the eves rotted out on bottom roof all around contractors are cheesy sometimes. They skip the step painting under with weatherproof paint primers.
I was going to do that. Glad I watched.
Thanks, I always wondered what technique was better. I remember the old school guys always putting it in concrete. Very glad to have come across this.
If I want to take that 6x6 right up and build a roof for a light and simple corrugated metal roof, are those saddle mounts good for that? Thanks!
Great to see a vid walkthrough on the outdoor shower
Haha I think you're the first person to say that out of 900,000 view!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow it’s a cool shower, I would like to honestly try and build it.
Wow,thanks for sharing, i was about to Concrete on my post...
So was I. What did you end up doing?
I've always wondered how would work to dip the bottom of the posts in some asphaltic paint or something. As if the posts was wearing socks. Some day i'll try it. Maybe it would be cheapper to buy the steel hardware tough.
Great idea using bottle jacks.
Well done valuable intel
sir i have a question, i want to add a storage room onto my home, in that room i want to add a woodburning stove and a place to store water, my question is on how to do the foundation, im leaning towards sonotubes and 6x6s for posts, but you say dont set them in concrete for the reasons you have shown, is there some metal gizmo that would be acceptable? what about covering the post with some kind of coating from the bottom to a few inches above where the concrete would end? i want to do it right but i am unsure of what to do.
I had a deck built about 23-24 years ago and they embedded the 6x6 in concrete (it was code back then) and some of the footers are rotting or rotted and I have to deal with this crap now (will never put wood into concrete after seeing the rot). When I was doing some termite treatment around the foundation of my home I had to remove some deck boards and found the deck builder took some shortcuts. They did not install ledger flashing, did not install washers on the ledger screws, did not use corner brackets on a couple boards and only installed 1 lag screw (code now require bolts and nuts for rail post) on posts that supports the railing. I will be bringing the deck up to current code. The deck is strong and has held up for 23+ years and survived an earthquake here in the MD. I will be bringing the deck and porch up to current code where applicable. This is why I never let any contractor do any work at my house now that I have the skills and tools to do all the work. I just don't trust their work, especially work you can't see.
Is the ledger board at least bolted to the box? I've seen worse.
thanks, at the planning stage and your video had made a difference.
Mr Smith good to hear and thanks for your comment!
4:20 can you tell me what's wrong with having the 2x4 on top of the 2x12's? I'm genuinely clueless so that info would be very helpful! thank you sir
My company Nevers sets post in cement.We always pour a pier and use anchor brackets..If we have to set in cement due to owner's,We then wrap posts with a seal tape designed for that issue..
Really excellent video
WOW GREAT VIDEO VERY EDUCATIONAL 👍👍
What happens to a 4x4 PT post set in concrete and soil, below the frost line? Does it rot the same way?
Very interesting. Thanks!
Exactly my experience too.
Thanks for this video. I've got a problem using metal post anchors, any advice appreciated: I'm installing a wooden fence on concrete using metal post anchors that bolt into the ground. The problem is the concrete is a ramp. Any advice on how to set the anchor vertical? Best I can think is washers around the bolt on one side, maybe filled in with cement to tidy it up. (I too am a bit broke and can't get the machinery for cutting into the concrete.) Thanks for any help.
Honestly it's hard to say without looking at it. But I would probably try to fabricate some kind of shims. Washers may work too and then use epoxy to fill around it
Use a nut underneath on treaded rod to level then pack with non shrink grout. Sets off like rock. 🤣😂😁😀😎
Thank you for sharing. God bless.
"I don't want to deal with this thing when I'm older". Wise thinking
I built a ground-level deck a couple of years ago which is also covered. (The posts for the cover are on cement piers with metal footings.) I didn't have the benefit of this video, but I tried to make it to last. I used 6x6 barn timbers which have a higher level and type of preservative. I soaked all cut pieces in copper green and once dried put two coats of weatherproofing stain and sealer on it. The bottom of the holes does have concrete, but the posts are not embedded in it. I lined the holes with 2 layers of heavy-duty weed cloth (to keep soil from slowly migrating to the posts) and then filled the space with 1-1/2 inch round river rock which holds them in place incredibly well. The weed cloth then covers the over the rock at the top and another small layer of rock covers that. My thinking is that the round river rock provides excellent drainage as well as airflow and will keep water and soil away from the wood thus preventing any rotting. If I was to do it again, I would have covered the base concrete layer with 1/4-10 gravel without fines to provide even more drainage. I would also have used a tar emulsion to coat the posts which I had intended to do but forgot, then covered the post at the ground level with a plastic barrier made for that purpose, which I wasn't aware of at the time. This summer I have to replace a couple of sections of fence, and this is the approach I'll be using for that (without the concrete base) and using 4x6 ground-contact PT wood posts.
0:58 The post on the far left didn't rot because it's not set in concrete? Because the (unmentioned) metal bracket gives a gap?
Thanks, good info
I tar my posts and drill in screws to hold a bit extra before I put em in the concrete, over 20 years and no issue with rot.
I soaked my 4x4 softwood fence posts in creosote for a month before I set them and made sure there was proper drainage in the bottom of the concrete. I have done nothing to them since 1985 and they are absolutely solid.
Thank You !
FYI, there is two types of pressure treated lumber, above grade and below grade, some patios require posts to be installed in concrete others with post brackets, I always apply an extra couple of coats of Copper-Green or Brown around the bottom of posts and any ware lumber butts up to surface, purchase from any lumber yard but be careful because the smell will linger for weeks if you get any on your clothes or skin, nasty but works! You can also use min of 3 coats of Red Guard .
Thanks for advice
Awesome!!! Thank You!!!
There are (or used to be) some posts made for ground contact. Ive torn out 20 year old decks(told by homeowner) and all of the joists was touching the ground and none of them had rott or insect damage. You probably wont find it at lowes and HD but a proper lumber yard should have some
Pressure treated wood will last about 5-10 years at best. The old stuff was impregnated with creosote, it would leach out over time leaving sticky black tar marks on the wood. It's also quite toxic and can't be bought over in Europe any more. Using a good hardwood like cedar would help too, but that adds cost.
Pressure treated lumber will last way longer than that. Ive seen some over 20 years old still a good as it was new. The sun is what wrecks havoc on it. And they never used creosote on deck lumber that I've ever used. I believe That's only in railroad ties and utility poles. Deck lumber used to have arsenic and is called CCA lumber. and why you won't find it anymore. It changed to ACQ and mcq.. Alkaline copper quarternary. And MCQ micro copper quarternary. The downside to these is you have to use stainless steel or hot dipped galvanized fasteners or the fastener will rust away in a year.
You are exactly right. There are different specs for wood treatment and you can't get the good stuff from lowes or home depot. Wood pilings and power poles have a different grade of treatment than typical lumber. Some people with saw mills aquire the material from contractors and power company's and saw it into lumber.
Getting ready to do a deck for my mother in law. Was thinking of using wood in concrete now I gotta watch this video lol
Yeah I mean I definitely favor using the steel brackets, but if you do put wood in the ground, coat the bottom of it with tar or oil like many of the people on here have commented
Surprisingly, this is actually my most popular video on my entire Channel. LOL. And it's not even good imo. But it does serve as a good example comparing side-by-side examples of in concrete vs steel bracket
18 yrs ago I bought cheap 8ft presure treated landscape posts for a 60ft long stockade fence project. I coated them (actually I had my girlfriend do all the work) with liquid tar up 3ft. I ( girlfriend) set them in about 2 1/2 ft. I live in Buffalo NY. This fence has withstood every storm Buffalo could through at it. Last summer (2018) was the first time I did any maintenance on the fence. All the posts were still standing strong. I just had to replace a few pickets, some stain and she should be good for another 18yrs. Last summer I put up (this time I mean me) another 60 ft length with 8ft presure treated 4×4s. I treated the bottoms up 3ft with waist motor oil. I'm guessing I should get 30+ yrs out of them.
Dude...you got your girlfriend to do the work or even help?? YOu struck gold there in a day and age where most females are lazy hypocritical wackopathic feminazis. Considering that a blessing man. You have a down to Earth ..seemingly REAL woman who isn't afraid to get her hands dirty. That's awesome! I wish you two well.
Motoryzen Ex girlfriend, no doubt.
NOT EVEN ONE YEAR IN FLORIDA NEED DOCK RATED PRESSURE TREAT TO LAST FIVE OR SIX
@@enricopallazzo3244 yes she is. We didn't breakup until years later. It was a long distance relationship and we got wore out. She was certainly a keeper and I kick myself in the ass all the time.
@@motoryzen thanks man but that was 18yrs ago and we broke up due to it was a long distance relationship. But I do seem to be able to land girls that don't mind doing projects with me. We actually have fun.
As far as the quality of treated posts I have seen creosote posts put in concrete that were in good shape when installed . The concrete caused them to rot in short order. High line poles 10 inch in diameter.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thank you.
great video
Also concrete is caustic to wood so even if left in an enclosed environment it will eventuall eat away at the wood, but it would take much longer with out moisture hitting it. Best way to set wood in concrete is by tarring it up to 6 inches or so above the concrete.. galvanized steel helps by gapping the wood but just depends on time and materials you decide to use.
How long does pressures treated wood 6x6 last in the water?
Nice video and commentary. I'm getting ready to redo a screened porch and deck foundation with a similar situation and this was helpful, appreciate it.
I don’t want to deal when I’m older . ( very true) I like it .👍
Because of chemical concerns in C C A treated lumber, they changed to something called Copper Azole....and it sucks, it can completely rot away, even if not in contact with the ground
This mainly rotted because it was either untreated or non-ground contact treated wood in the first place which is an absolute must. Understand up until the last 20yrs or so it wasn't widely available like today. Also by puting rock or anything around the bottom it simply slowed drainage and allowed water to simply puddle around the bottom of the posts so it's rotted. I'm almost 60 now and we put my in-laws deck & privacy fence both non treated directly in concrete when I was around 12 and it's never rotted. In fact we dry concrete set all those posts. Meaning we just dug hole, set posts in hole and poured dry concrete in hole. Done deal! Just don't let the hole settle lower than ground level, make it hump up higher so water drains away from it. That's where people screw up, water must not puddle around post base like this has done, simply make it so water runs away from all your posts with very little to no blockage. Simply put' poor water drainage rots out the posts not direct concrete contact like many actually believe. Just sold my in-laws house last yr as both have passed on now but' we never replaced any of it. So at the very least it outlasted both of them and most likely will the wife & I too. Keeping it maintained with sealer or paint also helps imo. I pressure washed it all a couple times and they sprayed it with Thompson sealer using a tank sprayer every few yrs for about the last 15yrs or so fwiw.
Something else to consider might be the type and quality of wood available 50 years ago versus what you will get today. The species certainly makes a MASSIVE difference. I mean, Venice was built on oak piles driven into the mud! Try that with a bit of pine and the city would have collapsed centuries ago. 😂
I wold give this 10 thus up if I could. I really have a lot of respect for people who can and will do this kind of work!
Moisture can still seep between that piece of metal and the post. When I installed mine 8 years ago, I set the posts inside thick plastic trash bags and then stuck them into the concrete, so there isn't any contact with the posts and the concrete. Sort of like a moisture barrier that goes underneath laminate floors. I enclosed the area underneath the deck, so nothing gets wet, anyway.
was it wicking up moisture?
in geran we do 15 cm(5.9 inches) distance grount to wood, if you use the anchor. thats so called Spritzschutz, splash protection, from rainwater splashed etc. to protect the wood from rotting
Hi, I've just dug out a 30-year-old 6x6 pressure treated post that was loose. It was 2 ft in the ground, with no cement anywhere. Just a hole with the post. The reason it was loose is the neighbor's plants roots were loosening the soil. I'm redoing the fence but the loose post has to be fixed. Why didn't it rot if it was under ground for so long? Should I use a metal footing, or just put it back in the hole with some quick-set cement?
30-year old PT wood used different preservatives that were more caustic but indeed did last longer. In contrast, I built some raised beds about 6 years ago which have 4x4 ground contact PT wood in the corners. One has completely rotted away and the others show clear signs of significant decay.
Thank you
Wait, so were the 6x6 “in” the concrete? As in anchored in a post hole down through the pad and 1/3 length of part into the ground? Or were they “ON” the concrete? I ask because I’ve read that setting the post into the ground (through concrete if that’s the surface) is the most structurally sound way to place a post, and I have to replace my gate in my driveway. Now I’m worried I should use ties rather than anchoring
Yes they were embedded and sunk into the concrete. This is definitely the most structural and strong way but unfortunately it usually leads to premature rotted posts in many regions. For a gate, that will be the only way to go. Unless you can use a galvanized steel pipe. That will last much longer
Good proof
In my area the code for buried post is to use a T brace at bottom of post , gravel 3 to 4 inches on bottom and sand instead of concrete .
Just thought of something, I'm going to use poly to cover around the end of the 8x8 post and trim off the poly above the ground once the concrete is dried and cured. I would think that would totally slow down the rotting process by double or triple.
I would just use a tar or something equivalent like many Below have mentioned. I think that would be better
How do you stop your little plastic cover from collecting rain and working like a bucket to soak your pole in water?
@@calebfuller4713 The pressure from the wet concrete before it dries will push in towards the wood post with the plastic liner wrapped around it to minimize the space between the plastic and the wood surface, this would minimize the moisture buildup...the concrete will hold moisture a lot longer than what little moisture the wood soaks up and of course the plastic would hold no moisture other than the very tiny volume that is filling the tiny void between the plastic and the wood post which would dry out fairly quickly once the rain stopped. Tar would probably work even better like the gentleman suggested in this previous thread...that was actually a great idea that would be slightly better than the plastic protection from the moisture holding concrete since the tar is adhered directly to the wood post and will seal at the edge entirely.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow The tar is actually a great idea and even better!!! Nice suggestion!
just wondering if your daily out side shower had any effect on the wooden posts seeing as they would have recieved splash off from the shower???????
No I don't think so. Because even the post that was furthest from the shower was rotting out. Plus this is something that I noticed when I first moved into my house. I pushed the Rocks aside to see the bottoms of the post and noticed some rot when I first inspected the house. A few years later I checked the progress and the rot was moving along rapidly so I decided to take care of it. But good point and observation. There are a few others that mentioned the same thing
I definitely feel your pain on the rotting 6x6s. I would’ve replaced them too. The reason I watched your video. I’m fixing to build a pole barn and don’t know if I want to put post in ground or not. Some say coat they are fine others say no way build on concrete. What to do, what to do....
Yeah I was dealing with the same problem a couple years ago when I was considering a pole barn. And yeah it seems like everybody has a different opinion. I think it really comes down to the soil in your area, how good the pressure treating is on the wood, and certainly seems like coating it with tar will help out.
NoNonsenseKnowHow awesome!!! Thanks for the reply.
I am currently in the same boat. Definitely good side by side comparison. I still don’t know what to do though. I am located in middle TN.
Pole barns depend on the depth of embedment in the ground for bracing. How deep they need to be depends on the height of the building. They do have special brackets that connect the wood poles to concrete piers.
Waterproof stain it, then tar it. When your ready to put the wood in the hole, don't forget to put a rock in the hole to raise the dimension of weed. I mean wood that you choose so the cement will fill the rest. Use hempcreete if you can in your area. Put enough cement in the hole till your above the grade about 2". (I don't mean grade 2, i mean 2 inches above anything around it within a few feet. Let it dry or simmer (cure) for 3 days and keep it dampened with a hose, or urine (
Dude I love how you think.. just like my pops... he built fences for 6-7 years.. never put wood in concrete! We’re building a fence here at my home next month can’t wait...may be going with that western cedar
Awesome! Good luck on your build. And yeah Western Cedar is definitely the way to go
THANK YOU, I was doing it all wrong, I appreciate your instruction.
it's still solid
Insightful
How about the strength against a wind? I will replace gazebo poles, will poles anchored be strong like if they were inside the concrete?
In this instance yes. The deck is attached to the house. No problem. It's case by case though