Thanks to Private Internet Access for sponsoring this video! Check them out at piavpn.com/Toms3D
You can get the printbed I showed in the video from AliExpress:
H1H (Holographic lines) go.toms3d.org/H1H
PEY (Holographic circles) go.toms3d.org/PEY
PET (Carbon Fiber texture) go.toms3d.org/PET
PEO (Polygon texture) go.toms3d.org/PEO
(The names really seem to have nothing to do with what material they’re made from, they’re just different textures as far as I can tell.)
Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
Models shown:
Portable Cable Organizer / Winder by squinn www.printables.com/de/model/5...
Fast-Printing Modular Drawer System (Vase Mode) by LR3DUK www.printables.com/de/model/1...
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Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
1:23 Sponsor
2:55 Unboxing
5:57 Setup
7:10 PLA prints
8:10 PLA results
10:08 PETG prints
10:24 Explanations on how these beds work
11:37 PETG results
12:35 ASA prints
12:55 Conclusion
Thanks to Private Internet Access for sponsoring this video! Check them out at piavpn.com/Toms3D Is there anything you found on Aliexpress that piqued your interest? Let me know below! You can get the printbed I showed in the video from AliExpress: H1H (Holographic lines) go.toms3d.org/H1H PEY (Holographic circles) go.toms3d.org/PEY PET (Carbon Fiber texture) go.toms3d.org/PET PEO (Polygon texture) go.toms3d.org/PEO (The names really seem to have nothing to do with what material they’re made from, they’re just different textures as far as I can tell.)
Interesting I honestly didnt expect such tiny details like that of holograms to be transferable to the molten plastic tracks. Doesnt sound impossible just not expected. I wonder if we can somehow transfer this tiny structures on to a PEI coating? That way we have both function and form?
IF you order a PET build plate surface with a "carbon fiber" pattern, why would you call it "fake carbon fiber" as if you were expecting "carbon fiber"? Why is it that Europeans and Americans use the term "fake", even for open source devices whenever a Chinese company sells them? I don't ever this term used whenever they come from any European or American company. I can understand you using the term "fake", IF the seller were advertising it as "carbon fiber", but I'm sure they didn't.
@@kenwoo3601 The applied science channel got this effect to transfer to chocolate!
thank you for your video , you are the best ! :D Happy Xmas
And why do you take such dodgy sponsors? Do they have bots upvote your scam ad?
All of these PE(random letter) print beds are just marketing terms. All of these are Polypropylene material, their whole adhesion comes from texture, unlike with PEI. Those have been in multiple discussions on r/3dprinting in the last year and someone made a mass spectrometer analysis on them somewhere.
well I knew that pey wasn't a material but those being pp is new to me
If they pp, isn't that make them very for pp filament?
I can't believe anyone takes AliExpress descriptions seriously.
Yep, this essentially. Plus more often than not, they get freaking wrecked over time. Even more so than PEI beds.
Laughs with my PEG bed (Probabl E Glass)
I'm gonna hold out and wait for PEZ
PEZ candy print bed pattern
😂
Forget about 3D printing, these are perfect for what I'm looking for. Been on the edge between getting holographic foils or tapes, as substrates for silicone molds. But these are just perfect for casting silicone molds. I'll just 3D print the outer edges of the shape/mold and without even separating them from the build plate I can just pour in the silicone. Awesome find, thank you, and yes at least the PEI back of these will still be useful for conventional 3D printing.
Could use magnets embedded in the 3D printed mold to hold it tight to the surface. Would you need a gasket to keep the silicone from pouring out the bottom?
I think we have today's winner. Happy Holidays! :D Big up!
show us your process because i kinda didnt understand D:
I have the 'carbon fiber' and wacky geometric ones. I used to hate them until I discovered you need to print a little hotter (50c) and lower your Z by -0.04 (I use the 'Textured PEI' bed slicer setting with my Bambu, which does this). It provides more adhesion and squish into the bed pattern. The other thing is washing the heck out of it with dish soap right before printing. I've had consistently better results with all materials washing with dish soap. Your mileage may (will) vary.
SO GLAD you covered these. I've been seeing them for a while now and have always been curious about them!
I printed a tabletop game console enclosure a while back. All the visible surfaces were bed facing. Some of those patterns would look great in that application! Thanks for showing these.
Thomas, your video of these print surfaces really caught my eye so I purchased several different ones for my P1S, MK3 and K1 and they do work well and I I can say they look really nice. I didn't have any adhesion problems, but I normally set my print beds to 70C for PLA, PETG, ASA filaments. Thank you for reviewing these.
Great video! Sometimes it's so hard to pull the trigger on things like these, and it's so nice that you tried them out first.
Thank you for sharing your findings. I do a lot of user-facing textures and find that these will be useful in introducing some variety!
Got a PEY holographic star plate off Aliexpress recently. Had to crank up the bed temp to 70 to get decent adhesion. It's pretty subtle in normal non studio lights but a lovely touch imo.
I kept yelling at the screen "try increasing the bed temp!". Good to know i had the right intuition.
Sounds perfect for two dimensional prints, like wall decorations. Thanks for the video Thomas!
best video on these plates, been looking for this thank you
Thanks for the great video! These beds look cool, I definitely need to get some.
The micro-texture, more than the material, seems like a real promising idea. Going from an incidentally produced and carefully controlled surface texture to one that can be designed. These are different materials so it can't be a 1 to 1, and the holographicness seems like it would be material specific based on viscosity and molecular size, but I can imagine normal materials with non-holographic circular patterns doing a better than random job of resisting forces in all directions, and long parallel or near-parallel grooves or really high aspect hatching could be really good on long thin parts, to increase the hold strength perpendicular to the long axis. I'd really love to see normal printbed surfaces with "engineered" micro-textures rather than artistic ones.
Thanks much for being the tester. I ran across these in Nov and couldn't find reliable info!
I think these sheets are a nice addition. Nothing essential, but it can make stuff stand out a bit.
I literally just got one from Temu in the mail today. Can't wait tonsee how it prints.
I've been working with these alternative beds for a while and agree with Thomas' points. I have products that benefit from these textures, but there is a price to pay on bed adhesion. The texture has lasted for hundreds of prints. On the plus side, I found the plain PEI side to be good quality and these are cheap enough to experiment with.
yo thanks for this video! i was already contemplating these sheets, this sold me on them.
Huh, bout time there were actual "beds" for this effect now. About a year ago in printing groups the rainbow reflective pattern of the print at 1:20 was the craze. People were gluing down a form of vinyl onto their PEI bed for the smooth reflective effect. One person used window-blocking film with a stained glass appearance to create it.
I just got a PEO sheet with the triangular pattern cant wait to test it out and see those cool effects on my prints! Great video wasnt sure if i could use petg as well so thats good to know it works as well
My PEO sheet looks good with PETG, and I was surprised to see him 'cleaning' the sheets before use, I suspect that's what made them stick less, my PETG sticks very well, but I get corners and edges lifting slightly with all material.
My PEO sheet looks good with PETG, and I was surprised to see him 'cleaning' the sheets before use, I suspect that's what made them stick less, my PETG sticks very well, but I get corners and edges lifting slightly with all material.
@@ljadfwhat’s wrong with his cleaning?
@@ljadfwhy would cleaning with isopropyl alcohol cause less adhesion? I’m a car wrapper and we always use ISO on each vehicle prior to wrapping and it definitely increases adhesion.
I went on Ali express right after this video and bought these. They really do work well. I have not used any glue stick and with PLA, PLA+ and Silk so far no issues with warp or corner adhesion. Plus the textured look is great. Even on a 10hr print it held fast.
Hey thanks for taking the time to do this video man.
Loved the review! I ordered a few to try them out for the different finishes. I have a few prints in mind I think they would go great with.
I really did not expect the textures of these beds to transfer so well, and even be shiny and stuff on the part. Neato
Yeah. That explains why tool and die (mold) manufacture is so damn expensive.
I have all of these beds, and quite a few more. I simply refer to them as “diffraction beds”. The carbon fiber one is very useful (for my application) however it wears down the quickest and shows imperfections quickly. The adhesion is relatively the same for all of them if you’re using PLA or PETG but you’ll need to bump up the bed temp 5-7c higher.
Got the diamond shaped one and came pretty much to the same conclusion. Inferior adhesion compared to PEI but sufficient for most parts and it gives a nice surface. Also, as you mentioned the textured PEI on the backside is quite fine, which i really like compared to the coarser one i already had.
Hey Happy Holidays! :D Can I ask you, how quick they wear? Glue or not, to be safe? Thank you!
I'm glad to have thrown this idea to a manufacturer. 😁 Since they were just starting doing textures in aliexpress i told them why not Holo pattern?? It has a glass transition like chocolate so it should in theory capture holo. I'm obsessed with holos and sure enough in a month they started producing holo! Now i see all sorts of holo patterns 😊 ofc, more holo patterns wouldn't hurt 😅 My other idea, is a "moving" texture that looks like it shifts at different angles. Similar to 5D shift and in theory, it should also capture into the first layer. Haven't shared this one though. It may be more prone to damage if the nozzle is too low.
Interesting results. Plain cut mirrored bets have been my go-to for the last few years with a small coating of PVA. However whilst printing a project a few weeks back I wanted the CF look on the print and decided to use some of the CF wrap that I was going to use to cover the back side of one of my beds. The results I got came out nothing short of outstanding. I actually found that the prints in my case stuck slightly too much in some instances and did not release as well as they did when the glass cooled down compared to just normal glass or mirrored beds. If I am honest and not knowing the quality of the wrap material that has been used in those on the video I would be tempted to just used good qualify wrap material on an existing planing bed or even on the back of an existing bed. The good quality stuff I have used can be got for not much money in a 1M lengths and for about the same money as buying a pre-made bed with the bonus that you get a whole lot more to wrap others / replacements.
The CF Pattern sheet at least used to say only up to 80C bed temp, so I'm impressed it worked okay for ASA. I find that one has the worst adhesion. I honestly started buying these mostly for the high quality gold powder coat on the other side because it was the cheapest way to get them.
I've been waiting for this test !
I have a couple of these and they do transfer but it flakes off the build plate after a short time to printing on it. So you end up with bare spots. The PEI side is recommended to scuff up but do amazing at printing and work great for ABS/ASA
I've just received my AliExpress order, printing on the prismatic sheet now! Man the sheet just looks so cool on it's own
I love holographic stuff and when these dropped I went and bought them all too. You have to get your bed pretty levelled for it to stick well, and you can't use glue it'll kill the holo, but otherwise it's been great. If you print things like lids and flat stuff these are the dream. No more ugly first layers meant to be hidden.
Amazing solutions, thanks!
I have been using some of these for a few months. The bed adhesion isn't as good as regular PEI, yet still good for PLA, but your prints obviously don't have enough squish on the first layer as even the infill direction is very obvious but it should be smooth. Either add ~5% flow for the first layer, or use lower first layer height. I have printed huge parts on those without warping. The colorful ones do stick a bit worse than those with patterns but all of them are good for regular PLA. The only time I had trouble was with PLA-CF and PETG-CF and using a 0.3mm extrusion width with a 0.4mm nozzle (not enough squish). You can use a very slight spray of 3D LAC on those without impacting the pattern.
Thanks for the video, Well done!
It's been a good 5-6 years since I've 3d printed. I watched Tom back then, and I gotta say the quality of the videos are still 10/10, but your new "Rizz" in front of the camera makes this much more fun to watch a full video!
Very interesting. Once the build quality is better and more testing is done I might try one.
I have several holographic and patterned plates. I’ve found that first washing them *gently* with dish detergent works a treat, never had adhesion issues.
I often 3D Print "extruded" letters for interior signs. These would be perfect to use for the face of the letters to produce a unique look. Imagine walking in your company conference room and not only seeing your company logo on the wall, but upon further inspection of the letters you can see hologram shapes... Not for everyone, but worth it to have a few laying around for a little extra pop on a project. Even people knowledgeable in 3D printing might question how it was done... that alone is almost worth it.
Thanks, I was curious about those but I always waited to pull the trigger untill someone tried them. I think I will buy one or two just for a bit of fun.
I'm amazed those patterns carry over into the pla!
❤❤❤Great video. Always wondered about these sheers. Mahalo for sharing!
Optical engineer here: these color effects are caused by 2D photonic crystal. Repetitive structures on the scale of ~100 nanometers. I love it and would be awesome for demonstrations!
Thank you for this explanation, I think we've all thought something like this but couldn't put legit words behind it.
Will the pattern wear out? Is it an imparted property or a transferred structure?
I love the look!
I think with the availability of enclosed printers, printing even PLA in a warm enclosure is the way forward. This should prevent the slight warping we're seeing here. I like them! Now just to find one in 500mm. 🙂
Just found your video. Got the entire collection as well, and ordered from Juupine as well! Excellent customer service in message center. The holographic and non-holographic effects rock. Depending on the filament color they can be feignt to very obvious!
I've been using "PEY" holographic print surface a couple years and they work strangely very well. Print adhesion and release has be as good or better than textured on most of the prints I've thrown at them. Not all material types will pick up the holographic effect. ASA didn't as much but ABS did. I printed a bunch of V0 parts and none lifted. It's nice being able to buy these easily, finally. For years, the only source was to DM a random guy in HK through a translator. I bought the last few though a couple of the major 3d printer sellers in Ali. PEY one side and nicely textured the other. Cost is likely going to jump after the increased coverage. I got my v0 sized plates for 7USD each shipped and the mk2 and v2.4 for around 15 and 20-something. The big question is how well they hold up over time. For what it's worth, the holographic surface is technically a textured surface, just that the texture is at the scale of visible light.
I have one with stars. It's a 220mm x 220mm. I use quite a bit of squish for the first layer and wash the plate with dish soap before every couple of prints. I've only used it with quite small PLA prints.
I know nothing about what these are actually made out of. However I can tell you they work great. I have been using them on my Bambi P1S. Adhesion has been excellent and the pattern transfers well.
I've found that increasing the first layer nozzle temp (240) and reducing the bed temp (55) helps with the PLA warping on the PEY. not eliminated on large parts but its a step in the right direction.
Ah this is cool. At last we get to see a real life comparison of these different bed materials. Thanks a lot! On top of that I am glad to see you get sponsored by PIA. It is indeed a great VPN service. Highly recommended compared to NordVPN for instance.
I think these plates are quite nice as a little gimmick. Not super expensive and could be fun to have around. Especially for stuff like handles, even rougher surfaces could be interesting. So you get a certain feel while not having to print texture into something. Very useful review of these things. I probably would never have tried them, as the most gimmicky stuff on aliexpress usually is wasted money. But I might give it a go now.
Thanks for saving us testing time (and money). I actually will buy new plate thanks to this video, but it will be satin PEI (maybe glossy too, but I already have FR4 for that).
The H1H looks really awesome, I can imagine a lot of prints where this holographic pattern would look great.
I think the polygon pattern looks really beautiful. Nice addition actually, if one can handle the lower adhesion.
I've been using all these crazy beds on my X1C for a few months. When printing with the holographics I just go up to 65 or 70C and that's usually enough to avoid the warping. Textured PEI or PEX work at 55-60C. It's nice to just have all the options depending on the print and what will look best with it. My wife always wants everything printed on the holographic circle or flake beds... Plus if you gouge one of your textured PEI beds on accident, well you have 10 more since they all have a good PEI surface as well.
I had not seen that carbon fiber version yet. Have most of the others and love them. If you use hairspray they still leave the effect and get more than adequate adhesion. The drawback the surfaces are extremely fragile and any maring will permanently be imprinted into your parts
Yes, it looks great on the paits.
I really like these, and I run them from time to time. I have also noticed slightly less adhesion when using them.
Thomas does like these plates! Very cool video about these plates! I have seen them last month during the Black Friday deal on Ali, but didn't want to spend money on those plates and get the things I really needed.
Very cool hotbed plate with the pattern in the 3d printed parts!!awesome discovery!! merry christmas from Montreal,Québec!!!
Merry Christmas!
That polygon look is so good
I like the music with the Scarface feel to them. Thanks for the video. This is the first I've heard of these types of print beds. Many industrial machines use actual carbon fiber print sheets.
I used these on my 35cm^3 voron...large projects were failures.. but i still love the textures.. it can really enhance certain projects
I actually like that the printed part gets that holographic look with all the different color reflections,
These have certainly made the rounds. Maybe a little over a year ago, an Aussie who was streaming their Bambu had a PEY bed and basically everyone did a double take. Being in Australia, shipping anything to them is expensive so they often go to Aliexpress and spotted one of these and gave it a try. Fast forward, lots and lots of people use them and their very popular with model sellers as an added eyecatching element when someone looks to see if they want to buy the model. I'm glad you explained the letters, because I didn't really find things explaining what they all meant. Now I know it's really just the pattern (and one of the commenters explained this is Polypropylene).
I really like how these look. The triangular one is my favorite since it's not too tacky and would work with pretty much anything. The hexagonal one looks really cool for the right kind of print. They all look cool, the carbon fiber one is the only one I don't like that much. For certain decorative items, these are all great. I figure over time, the microscopic pattern will get clogged with filament which is impossible to clean properly, and the patterns won't look as nice anymore, that's just to be expected. At least they're pretty cheap.
actually just bought a bunch of these for K1 Max from Kingroon and was wondering about their performance before they arrive. so perfect timing :)
I picked up the diamond pattern "PEO" sheet for my P1S after seeing a video of it on TeachingTech's channel. I've been wanting to build a case for a single-board computer, and I plan on using it for the front and rear face plates. It's a neat pattern, and I was really curious about the holographic ones. I wonder if you can buy just the adhesive sheets of it for applying to your own beds.
yep, search for "diffraction grating film"
You should get a magnetic bed, there's no going back once you get one
Me too, TeachingTech and P1S :D I got a plate with both polygon and carbon fiber patterns, and it arrived an hour before this video dropped The edges of it are so dang sharp, gotta be careful not to damage the bed
I would suggest upgrading to a magnetic bed as others have stated. It's very convenient for removing prints and also makes swapping the bed much easier moving forward.
I bought a few different textured sheet like these and teceived a month ago. I really like the polygonal shaped ones the best, too. But they all add some fun and playfulness to your prints. I did not have any layer adhesion problems or lift with mine. But I printed on an enclosed corexy printer. I really think bed slingers are basically fanning the parts as it moves and thus causing more cooling than desired on the edges. Maybe that can be your next tested video. Does ambient temperatures affect the warpage of the se parts and is it lessened on a stationary bed or bed that only travels on the z axis? My hypothesis (and because Ive printed with both types in my basement is a resounding yes! During winter months when the basement is colder, many more of my prints warp and lift than during the summer months when its warmer.
I get the same issue. Bed adhesion suffers in the winter and an enclosure fixes it. I think the breeze from the furnace contributes too (in my house layout at least).
I had no idea how the colours worked. Thanks for providing the explanation and testing... I guess I'll stick with my PEI 🤓
I use AprintaPro PrintaFix Basic on all of my beds (I put a bit of Isopropanol on the bed, than two ort three times pressing the spray button of Printerfix and whiping the mixture with a whipping towl). The adheason works great than. However, even with outo-z-offset, remember sensors like BL-Touch or loadcell or tap probe the surface. On textured PEI powdercoated bed the top is measured, but to get a close surface also the valeys of the coat have to be filled, while a flat furface like PEI sheet or the new holographic effect surface have no valley to fill. To get the pefect filled but not oversqueezed first layer, you have to compensate this difference. There are two ways to do so: Increase the first layers flow rate a bit to fill the valeys, or put the nozzle a bit closer with textured beds. On my X-Max 3 (using BL-Touch), the z-offset between using textured or flat surface differ about 0.06 mm. Also, to get optimal effect, you need a very precide leveling probe. The mk4 load cell works quite nice. However, on my X-Max 3 9 magnets are embedded into the bed. As a BL-Touch is used, wich uses a Hall-Effect Sensor, theese magnets effect the detection a tiny bit. While you can not see it on textured beds, on theese holographic beds you see the errors in the mesh. So if you want to use this, make sure the bed leveling works as perfect as possible. On my X-Max 3 I increased the density of the mesh to 15 by 15 points. Also I think about replacing the integrated magnets by an magnetic foil.
I've been using these for my prints, and it's more of a novelty, but they do stick well enough so I don't have to use adhesive. I crank up my first layer to 70° then 65° for the rest of the print.
THis been very interesting. I might just buy the polygonal and carbon fibre surfaces. They looks cool.
That's so cool! Surprised it worked as well as it did. Guess maybe there is a heat distribution issue? Whenever I run PETG, I don't run the cooling fan for the first 50 layers and never have adhesion issues (like corner peeling). No border/brim either.
So nice to have options.
this is almost as exciting as the klipper upgrade i just did. cant believe how well the holographic stuff works.
I bought the H1H and PET ones.They look nice, I hope the effect will stay after a few prints or wash.
I started using the holographic ones on some of my prints to easily see oil contamination, from say, fingers on surfaces I'm about to glue or double sided tape I'm about to put together, this works really well with fixing the no stick stickyback problem
A perfect video for Boxing Day, what with all those boxes and all. I’m impressed how much of an impression those diffractive impressions actually make. I’m definitely inclined to get a few for the extra cool factor they add to any print. If the surfaces aren’t quite sticky enough, we can just add a massive brim, I suppose, like we did in the before before times. What obscure 3D printing accessories will you be trying next?
They are neat!
I could see the brighter holographic surfaces being popular for 3d printed cell phone protectors.
I've been printing with the circles PEY for a couple of months now. If I use IPA, it fails regularly. If I use just dish soap, and dry with very clean microfibre, I get zero issues. Not one lift or warp. These things hate paper towel, I suppose they're like a grater against the paper with the fluctuations.
I had no idea this was a thing very neat!
Funnily enough I just ordered the carbon fiber and the holographic circles one last night and then have just come across this today. I was really hoping you weren't going to say they were crap at the end (as I just got the "we shipped your order" message like an hour ago haha)
Great video!
Thanks for the cool video! One thing I struggle with the PEI sticker sheets is the adhesive used typically can't handle temps above 115C. I use CPE-HT from fiberlogy, and it sticks well to PEI for the most part, but it benefits from high bed temp when printing solid parts. All of the PEI beds I've tested can't seem to handle even 115C. Any thoughts? Maybe a video on high bed temp testing around 120 or more?
I believe PEX is a slightly modified version for higher temps, wham bam make some PEX beds.
Unless you're ordering from a brand-name supplier, the exact adhesive sheets they use may change every couple of months, so what we find today may not not hold up in a couple of months. I've already seen some deformation in the H1H bed after printing just simple PETG. Since adhesion is generally low with these plates, I'd probably just go straight to coated beds for higher-temperature application, those will continue working until the magnets fall out of your heated bed.
I picked up one of the polygonal peo type. Definitely puts a cool pattern on the first layer but in general doesn’t have perfect adhesion. Still pretty cool though 👍🇦🇺😊
Hey Tom, what happens if we put some liquid adhesive sparingly on the surface, like Dimafix or Magigoo? Do the patterns still appear, albeit a bit muted, or do they get completely faded out by the adhesive?
i feel like the textured ones would work okay but there is no way the holographic effect would work properly, it might show but id assume itd wash off/wear off as the adhesive would be containing that detail not the plastic
The particles would need to be smaller than the wave length of visible light. The holographic surface is just a texture measured in nanometers.
For the textured ones (non-holographic), this works just fine. I have several that I needed to use liquid bed adhesion for, and they don't peel at all now. The textures still come through no problem. Can't speak to the holo ones, as I don't own any of those.
I used nano polymer on a couple of mine it works a little too well. it also doesn’t seem to effect the pattern imprinting
i have the one with the triangles, i use sprayglue (glorified hairspray) it makes a very good inprint on the print! if you use the regular stick glue its probably not gonna work very good
I have some of the fun textured sheets and I use them from time to time on models that have larger surfaces and could be enhanced with a pattern, but more often than not I use the standard PEI sheets. Their lifespan is shorter due to the delicate nature of the pattern, but I agree with you, for the price, it's a fun option to have to add that extra pop to a print.
Have stopped using anything but ASA like two years ago when I migrated from my i3 MK3S to a Voron V2.4 so my findings may not necessarily apply to PLA and PETG in the same way as it did with ASA but I found that simply raising the Bed Temperature ( by like 5-10°C ) would do *_wonders_* when it came to getting a part to stick to a different brand of PEI Print Bed I had acquired at some point.
I actually found out that Isopropanol on these types of textured sheets and also on straight glsss really hurts bed adhesion, not sure if it's the residue or something, but I found that my parts stick way better after cleaning the sheet with water and normal hand soap until the water starts to bead up. After that just rinse them with plain or destilled water and dry. Since I started doing it like that I never had a part come loose during printing, but after cooldown they just fall off.
Most likely you are spreading a fine layer of grease around instead of removing it. I discovered that phenomenon when trying to clean glass - I realized I was just spreading finger grease all over. It's also possible that whatever cloth you are using has some stuff that ends up being dissolved into the alcohol and the deposited onto your print surface
I am using a G10 bed, works very well with adhesion and release of prints.
Hi Tom, another great interesting video for me thanks. I would like to ask did you try higher bed temperatures? To see if that reduced or stopped the warping issues. The reason i ask is that i have experienced that with the double sided pei texture surfaces the grain like texture causes an insulation air gap which reduces the surface temperature on the other side of the print surface. I measured with a non contact device with a piece of tape about a 10c surface temp difference, so i added that on and the surface performed much better.
I am so happy you tested it on Prusa and have Voron in the background. I am noticing so many people at least have Bambu somewhere in the back if not at front nowadays. They are so aggressive I am starting to hate them.
Thank you for doing this review. There were next to no reviews for the PET except one that mentioned not to print PETG on it because it'll get stuck. I'm glad to see that it does work. As for more AliExpress items, I'm curious about your take on the CHC heater blocks (they come in standard V6 and volcano sizes). I currently run a copper volcano block but I'm not sure if those are any more beneficial or not.
Do kind of wish these held up to printing a bit better, would be a nice option to have for certain Prince; but hey, there's always the potential for improvement, so maybe we'll see some better stats in the future