Richard Raffan turns Himalyan cedar bowl
2022 ж. 8 Қаз.
148 995 Рет қаралды
I hope to give you an insight into how I turn a bowl and develop a form. You also see how I rescue the bowl after a catch that detaches the foot. Lots of useful tips for bowl turners in this one.
You Sir are a magician. Thank you for being humble enough to show the whole journey and more importantly how you go about rescuing such a love piece . Love your work .
I find "recovering from a disaster" - videos much more useful, since they are much closer to my reality and it's great to see how you deal in those situations! Thank you!
In outright demos I try to include problems that need solving and look for demo blanks that will produce problems.
Videos on recovering from disasters are particularly useful to a lot of amateur woodturners like me. Very helpful.
We all have things go wrong, but that's when you learn most. I hope to save you a few of the experiences I've had.
Richard, I can't believe you saved that bowl! great recovery. Thank you for showing what really happens in the wood shop. So many others tend to edit this stuff out. You on the other hand, keep it real. Thanks again for many hours of great educational TV.
Well done Richard! As always I thoroughly enjoy watching a master at work. Thanks for including the “real world” events in your videos, that really drives home the idea that one should anticipate the unexpected and not be deterred. The recovery was brilliant!
"...I uttered words along the lines of Oh, Dear!" HA! I'll bet it was a little saucier than that. LOL!
Not really. When teaching I"m grateful for anything that provides an opportunity to show how to recover a situation. Most of those moments are usually engineered and have taken a bit of practice to produce to order. The skew catches are safest to demo.
Wenn es nicht ein Video von Richard Raffan wäre, hätte ich gedacht… Was für ein Anfänger… 😂 Zweimal fliegt ihm die Schale aus dem Futter. Aber genial. Er ist einer von uns. 👍 Es passieren ihm die gleichen „Unfälle“ wie jedem von uns. Und er zeigt es auch im Video. Ganz großes Kino. Danke dafür.
Aus Unfällen und Pannen lernen wir.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Genau so ist es. ☺️
Logs cut in winter, hold their bark; logs cut in summer shed their bark.Gorgeous piece!
That's a good rule-of-thumb, but not always true. There are exceptions like horizontal scrub.
Always a yawning gap between a professional and amateur. Thank you Richard.
Richard Raffan is the ultimate master at turning timber.
You show your mistakes in remarkable fashion. Nice to know old pros still screw up(and have the courage to show the world).
This is a very interesting video. I have been messing up cedar bowls all week (a different kind of mangled and twisted cedar). I was surprised to see you use a spindle gouge but it worked nicely. I love the shape! When you had the mishap(s) with the catch and broken foot, I said, “Yes!” That was not to make fun of you, but to say that I can totally relate! Your comments are very helpful. I’ve been at this for about 8 years or so (mostly November through February because it’s too hot in a Texas shed during the year), but I still learned a lot from this. I subscribed. Woohoo! Thanks for your work!
This one is the story of MY life. I commend you for going straight back to it. I would’ve put it to one side for a few days. Good recovery.
That was a great video showing real life turning, we can all learn from the misfortunes which can happen during turning at anytime....thanks for not editing the unexpected out.
RR, this covers everything. A brilliant presentation. Great Camera work. And a beautiful end product.
That was a couple of exciting moments. Lovely Bowl Richard, I'm sure the owner will be pleased with it.
Dobrý deň p.Richard. .....tak ako filmy, tie ktoré sú zo života sú originalne a dobré.Aj Vaše videá sú zo Života, taký aký je. Skvelé a dobré čo ukazujete svetu.Bodaj by viacerí majstri odovzdávali skúsenosti a vedomosti ďalej ľuďom, ktorí chcú ďalej rásť tak ako to je prirodzené....!Ďakujem Vám a prajem veľa zdravia a všetkého dobrého....! Bohuš Repka
Pri vyučovaní sa snažím ukázať, čo sa môže pokaziť, aby ľudia videli spôsoby, ako sa zotaviť. Jediným problémom tohto prístupu je, že niektorí ľudia si myslia, že som neschopný.
Nad týmito ľudmi sa snažím povzniesť a je mi ich aj trochu ľúto.Riešenie vlastného ega a pohrdanie inými je problémom viacerých ešte nedospelých jedincov.Chvála, že ich nie je veľa. Vaše videá pozerám ako som začal sústružiť a patrí Vám veľká,veľká vďaka.....!!! So srdečným pozdravom Bohuš Repka @@RichardRaffanwoodturning
Thanks for that Richard. A great watch.
Always a joy to watch and learn form a Master
"We learn from our mistakes." Thank you very much for not editing out the catches. They are realistic and the way you handle them is very informative, as is your calmness when they occur. Well, at least your outward calmness, anyway. Regardless, this second cedar bowl video was a pleasant surprise. After your first one, I rushed to my lathe and tried it myself. Now after this one, I will make another and maybe it will be better. Thanks again.
In my 52 years of turning I've had quite a bit of practice at staying calm.
Reality woodturning! Catches and splits are part of the process. Another helpful video. Thanks.
Thank you for your calm and humble demeanor. There are so many turners on KZhead trying to be some kind of rock star and you are like the Eric Clapton if woodturning but stay down to earth.
Qv
Thank you for your videos Richard, they are a treat to watch.
Thank you for one of the most educational videos I’ve had the pleasure to learn from. From bandsaw to bowl, this process covers so many facets of wood turning; process and product. It is now saved n my video library for future viewing.
Good work, good tuition,good humour and a very nice end result 👍🏻
Richard, thanks for sharing the trials along with the successes of turning. Its very enjoyable to watch a master woodworker such as you guide us through to a good outcome.
I'm always amazed at your ability to overcome an unexpected issue. Nice work Richard
I've had lots of practice overcoming the unexpected...
A pleasure to watch as always, keep em coming richard👍
Thanks for not editing out any mishaps during the turning. That is teaches me to correct some of my mistakes.
Sorry for the catch, but thanks very much for showing how you recovered when it caused a major problem. Very helpful to see, and hear, how to go about recovering from such an event. (Not that it has ever happened to me 🙄) Thanks again. Cheers, Tom
Richard, I started out by reading your “Turning Wood” book and moved on to other books and videos by you. I have other books by notable wood turners but you make things so understandable and to the point. No one does a better job of teaching wood turning. Now you are doing it again in these videos. I love how you explain your thinking and treatment starting with the log at the band saw and progressing to the finished product. It is such a treat to get to see your process of turning a piece of wood. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
I"m glad to be of help.
A beautifully turned piece and some great advice too thanks. it's good to see someone else getting catches while hollowing although I feel your pain!
Most excellent come back Richard, beautiful shape! TFS, GB :)
Good man, a brilliant video. Im a bad man, to say i was glad to see the bowl tumble, because i thought that only happened to me. And fair play to you Richard you did not edit it out like more would do. One of the best, most enjoyable and educational videos on line, Thank you. 👏👏👏👏👏👏
If run-of-the-mill problems don't occur during a demo I can make most of them happen. I usually tell you when it's a genuine rather than manufactured catch or whatever. A demo when nothing goes wrong is never as interesting or informative as when things are less than perfect.
Nicely done Richard. 👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thank you Richard. As I am new to turning, this video was very helpful. Appreciate you sharing your craftsmanship .
Hey Richard. The cedar pot is gorgeous! The video is great in showing the challenges encountered in turning and how, with patience and experience you can end up,with something amazing! Will be in touch my friend and all the best.
I never fail to learn little techniques when I watch your videos. But I have plenty of practice on the technique of going across the shop finding my blank bringing it back and also applying band-aids. just joking. Great video please keep'm coming 🙂👍
Richard, it is a real pleasure to watch a truely superb turner at work. You have had more positive influence on the world of wood turning than any other person. Will we get to see more?
Thanks you. My latest hobby seems to be making videos, so there are more on the way.
I wondered why this video was 50 minuets long. Thanks for showing how to get out of trouble, too many people would throw this away because they wouldn't know how to fix it. Masterfully done. The blood just means that it was done right.
Also I want to show turning in real time, not speeded up which is often a sign of lack of competance.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Agreed, I am thankful that you have taken the time to share your vast years of experience.
Top Marks Richard, and big thankyou for your presentation which I found both entertaining and educational. I admire the honesty and integrity demonstrated proving we are not infallible even when accomplished as you are, A delight to watch and a super end result. Big appreciation for not subjecting us to non-appropriate Music too!. All of which have earned you a new subscriber. Happy turning from a newbie wood turner from Menorca Spain,
It amazes me how easy you make this look. Great job.
This man is fearless as well as having an easy, philosophical style with amazing results. Just hope my engineering workshop grounding will translate to wood turning without too much hassle. At 80 plus, the learning curve could be steep?
Such an inspiration for me, I am practicing all your techniques you teach, and learning so much from you. Thank you so much! Listening to you think out loud has really helped my process.
Wow! Some little cedar pot!
Thanks Richard The way you always feel the wood for feedback while it's still turning is like the auto body guy where i work . He feels more than looks and is extraordinary to me a visual kind of guy. thanks again. keep the wood turning and the blood inside !
Nicely done Richard. Enjoyed learning how to get out of issues. Take care Cheers Harold
Wonderful video. Thank you for posting. I really enjoy watching you turn. So much experience to learn from.
Beautiful bowl
Thanks for the video Richard I enjoy watching them and enjoy your books as well. I have learned a great deal from you. I can't take too much at once though. Lol. That is what I like about your channel and books. They are there when I want to learn. Never cease to amaze this beginning turner. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce these videos! The finished bowl is amazing by the way!
Yes Richard. A very nice recovery 👏
Man, new guy getting lots of catches :-)
Thanks for posting this disaster recovery. Lots of ideas to try the next ime it happens to me.
WOW, it's so cool that you showed even a master wood turner can get a catch, I don't feel so bad now, LOL Thanks for not editing that out.
When demonstrating I aways tried to use blanks with flaws that would throw up archetypal issues and for the same reason a lot of the catches aren't entirely accidental.
Excellent as always, thanks
Great save and a beautiful result
Thank you for making the effort I really enjoy your content. Warrington UK
Very nice Bowl!
Beautiful little bowl Richard.
Thanks for showing everything!
Great instructional video, warts and all.
Beautiful!!!!
Great video and great save from being firewood.... Nice bowl
Richard we need you to wear a video spy camera in safety glasses. That way we we what you see. The difference between a master and student is the ability to eliminate any sign of challenge in the finished piece. I love the journey.
Don't forget sound which is also very important. And what I see often isn't as important as what I can't see but can show you.
Richard Thanks for sharing this presentation with us. As a beginner bowl turner, tenons are constantly splitting on me and the unfinished bowls end in the woodfire pile. Iappreciate the video. Learning a lot from them Thanks Rocio
One of the secrets to turning is to have as little tool pressure as possible against the wood. Think in terms of letting the wood come to the tool, then all you have to do is hold the edge at the best angle to get a shaving. With wood that splits easily, any pressure in the cut can cause a foot to split, or if the chuck's in a rebate it heaves the bowl off the jaws.
I've only been doing it a few months aside from decades ago when I made a few bowls but you were scaring the hell out of me. I thought she it was going to explode of there long before it did. But I wish I could go that fast. A quarter of an inch is a big cut for me
Speed comes with working effeciently and holding the edge at the right angle. Of course you only recognise the best shaving after thousands of hours at the lathe.
Very good.
Thanks for sharing, even the mis-haps.
I really like it!
I was pretty pleased myself.
This is a fantastic video. I like to see how professionals overcome the obstacles I find in my own turning. Sometimes I win and sometimes I lose, but I do keep trying. You are STILL teaching me, even when mistakes happen - or is the especially when mistakes happen?
Woow istimewa bubut good job mr
Beautiful complimenti grande bravissimo Silvano di Schio Vicenza ITALI
I love it Richard . I am getting a 1/2 " spindle gouge should I put a standard grind or your asymmetric grind , I am still learning the ropes . What bandsaw blade do you use , it works very well as I use a timberwolf now with mixed results . Thanks
very good mate mark in the uk
Another great video👌 credit for showing mistakes!🙈
Another great Video, showing what actually happens to many of us!!! However, Might I respectfully ask you to look at timestamp 48.28, onwards, just after nib removal, your left sleeve is then perilously close to that chuck Richard, I am a retired engineer who has morphed into a wood turner, at 69, when "I were a lad!!" safety drummed into me, I do support you wholeheartedly in the no-nonsense get in amongst it attitude and approach, but that is not a safe way to go, or a very good example...please do not take this as pomposity or criticism, I admire you and your work immensely.. Alan..Thanks for another entertaining video.
I'm usually monitoring of the close proximity of the chuck when I lean on the headstock to pull in my right wrist to avoid straining my lower back. The risk of catching a sleeve is something everyone needs to be aware of.
Nice work! Is that scraper a tool you made yourself?
Thank you very much for sharing all these tips ! NICE JOB ! How is your hand ??? I suoppose there will be a drying process... Will the bowl suffrer from it ? You gain a new supporter :) Your explanation is very detailed and accurate... Take care and Happy New Year 2023 !!! Pat
My hand soon recovered. This bowl was turned from very well seasoned wood, so the bowl will remain stable.
Great video, how do you sharpen you scrapper ( Stone, CbN, what grit?), what size diamond card do you refresh your honed, and are Negatif Rake Scrapper only for beginer? Thanks again for your wonderfuk videos
I sharpen on an 80-grit CBN and have diamond hones of various grades. I think a negative rake makes standard scrapers less useful. To obtain a negative rake all you need to do is adjust the tool rest and ensure the angle between the surface you're cutting and the top of the tool is less than 90 degrees. A negative rake makes it more difficult to have a catch, that's all.
A very pretty bowl, thank you for the video. I have found cedar to be relatively soft to point loads and it seemed you had hardly any bevel on the second tenon. As the jaws were beyond their "sweet spot", was the pot effectively being held on 8 points? After the initial hollowing these indentations might have loosened a shade, and the point contacts are better able to cleave the wood under the stress of a catch. Personally I retighten the grip on softer wood from time to time to make sure that it stays firm. I like the bowls that survive a battle the best, and this is a lovely one. Thanks again.
This cedar is a fairly hard wood, so none of the problems i might have had with something softer. A bevel on a tenon isn't always necessary, especially when the jaw corners are doing the gripping. When a project needs remounting I use the intial chuck marks first, then reposition the job if it's not running true.
Perfect example of why I never leave any bark or soft white wood when using a scroll chuck. Also why I stopped using spindle gouges on face work. Nice work tho.
This was nothing to do with the strength of the wood, more with my not being able to see the tool whilst trying not to block the camera. I've no idea what your problem is using spindle gouges on facework. kzhead.info/sun/pr2BctaNr6KlaoU/bejne.html
Hi Richard, I'm learning a lot watching your videos. I have some Ashe Juniper from my yard - how is the best way to get rid of the sap so it doesn't come through the finish?
I've never had a problem with sap affecting finishes because I've always cut blanks free pockets of resin to avoid later problems. Consequently I have no idea what to do about juniper sap. Or maybe you're talking about finishing unseasoned timber. I let my green-turned pieces dry and then use boiled linseed oil.
Very helpful video Richard. Is there a particular reason for using a steel drill bit as opposed to an auger style wood drill to form depth holes? Long series steel drill bits tend to be costly, at least in my part of the world.
I'd never thought of using an auger other than for long-hole boring for lamps. A 200mm drill bit costing about $20 will last for decades. Often I use a ⅜-in gouge and for many years used an old ¼-in carvers gouge.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning You're right, a steel drill can easily be resharpened negating any saving on the purchase price. I've never sharpened an auger style bit but suspect not easily done. Thank you Richard
very nice skillful work. thanks. how do you prevent the bowl from cracking now?
It was turned from well-seasoned wood, so won't split unless dropped or it might if left in direct sun on a very hot 35° day. My book Turning Bowls tells you all I know about making bowls, including seasoning and rough-turning. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning: thanks.
Very interesting to watch this. I can see that if I want to take this hobby up, I am going to have to learn a lot more about all the tools, and knives and chucks. Thanks. Is this your job, or hobby? l What do you do for a living?
I began turning in January 1970 and was never a hobby turner. In the 1980s my books and videos helped a lot of turners get started as the woodturning revival got underway. kzhead.info/sun/h5ajdqhwjIaBna8/bejne.html provides an insight into my career as a turner.
Just before 22.28 I thought, "This is where I get a catch. Now I'll learn how to avoid that."
Really enjoy your channel!! 3 questions Why do you rough with a spindle gouge? Is that Deodar cedar green ? I just got a truckload and wondering if it drys wonky? Or twice turn?
I find spindle gouges more effecient: the shaving never gets trapped in the flute as it can in a deep flute. It's a less expensive tool and when cutting close to the rest I see no point in wasting more expensive deep-fluted steel when I don't need to. This pot isn't deodar cedar; it's bone dry Hymalyan cedar. Deodar is pretty stable and not renowned for splitting.
First timer to your channel. What an expert on how to turn turn bowl, what to watch for and a general beautiful bowl. I see that YOU are wearing g eye protection and of course you must talk to educate us but if you where not explaining would you also wear a mask so you do t breathe in the sawdust?!
As a professional turner I wore dust masks with pads for 14 years, 1970-84. Then I purchased a Racal Airstream Helmet and wore that in my workshop for 30 years until I retired from production. In addition I've always had good dust extraction similar to what you see in these videos. You'll find more about all this in my books. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
Hy Richard, first of all thank you for your inspiring videos, i am learning a lot from you! Got a question: I have some half fresh plumwood pieces for 20cm bowls, there are some rotten parts in the dark centers of the wood, which i put away after finishing. How do you suggest the drying after finishing? Always got some splits while drying....sure more cause of this rotten pieces in between, like this the bowl can go into more directions while drying and make more splits too...and may i dry it too fast in warm rooms?! Sad cause the bowls are looking amazing Thanks Master, Greetings Mani from Salzburg
I always dry green-turned bowls before applying any finish. Green-turned bowls often split if the wall thickness or wood density is uneven or where there are knots. Initial drying is usually in a microwave, after which I leave bowls as long as possible before finishing and at least two weeks. Unfortunately I've never found any hard and fast rules.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Great, thanks. I am getting tomorrow a Microwave, tried already a small bowl in my neighbours microwave. Worked great! I have seen a video from you of small thin (2-3mm) bowls......a day after the microwave, you finished and oiled it. Does it make sense to oil before drying?
@@wasserpfiefa I get them dry before oiling. Oilng first which would slow up the drying process.
What was the angle of the plug you put in the center when you glued it up, also the diameters, top and bottom.
I don't know what you're referring to because I didn't glue up anything and very rarely do as it's too time consuming. I can't check the sizes because the bowl sold soon after I made it. The diameter of the base is probably around 70mm, the opening on top about 90mm.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I'm sorry Richard, my question was supposed to go to a different person. You do wonderful work and inspire me to do better with my turnings
@@paulplager9498 You had me worried there...
after watching you use that screw chuck so many times i must wonder is there ever a piece when you feel the whole screw is called for? also why reverse the base plate part for this particular piece? especially since the spacer disk you added looked to be about the same diameter. and thanks for another excellent video. :)
i often thought you were using a depth-drill to encourage students to use one but i wonder would you use the depth drill when not doing educational videos? i stopped using one once i stopped making funnels (i.e., bowls with accidental holes in the bottom from where the inside curve intersected the outside curve) but i'm wondering if using a depth drill has other benefits beyond just helping others avoid going too deep when hollowing their vessels?
@@ronreynolds8207 I usually use a depth drill and rarely use calipers. Another benefit is that by removing the centre you have somewhere to stop a gouge cut - rather than have it go across centre to be caught and lifted by the wood on the far side.
Given the 12-in swing on my VL150 I rarely need a screw projecting much more than 15mm. I used the middle backing plate to give the tools plenty of room on an enclosed form.
I inherited a very old wooden sugar bowl. There was a note in it stating that it was 250 years old and the note was dated 1939. Any thoughts on this? Value?
Anything from $30 or £30 upwards depending on where you are in the world. I'd need a photo to see what you have. You'll find my email in the channel details or you can message. At that age I think it's unlikely to have been made as a sugar bowl.
Why not use a spindle roughing gouge for the heavy bark removal?
First up, this is facework and deep-fluted spindle roughing gouges should be used only for roughing spindles. Apart from that I'm roughing the form as effeciently as I know how. And I don't own a D/F roughing gouge, using a continental or bowl gouge for roughing spindles. kzhead.info/sun/Y5ieoradbaaLp3A/bejne.html
What size drill bit do I need?
¼-in to ⅜-in is fine. That's 6mm to 9mm. I find ½-in drill tends to be pulled in too agressively if you don't align it just right. I also have a ⅛-in gouge with a long symmetrical fingernail grind that works well.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks, I am now a follower.
Richard love your videos, but could you lower the camera so we can see the tool on the tool rest as you turn?
If you're wondering about angles, I usually have the handle pitched about 10-15 degrees below horizontal. My right hand is usually near or on the ferrule with the handle under my forearm or against my side or hip. My books show much better what's happening and particularly Turning Bowls and Turning Wood in this context. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
Richard, just rewatched this vid and as the proud owner of this amazing bowl, wanted to commend you again for the fine turning skill. I think one of most crucial lessons in wood turning as well as in any skill, is overcoming adversity and challenges, not giving up. I’m still learning this (slowly)! The final outcome is so cool and shows not a speck of damage. I particularly love the weight and proportions of this bowl, grain and general feel of it. Sits in a prominent place on display in my home and it’s great to have this video to go with it. Best.
@@victoryak86 Thank you, and I'm glad the bowl has found a good home.
11:11 Not arsie at all, genuine question in an effort to learn. Is there any reason why you don't use a bowl gouge and Stuart Batty's "pushcut" to avoid the "rough-as-guts" surface?
Speed is the short answer, but also a spindle gouge is a less expensive tool, so it make sense to use that when a stronger tool isn't required cutting close to the rest. More importantly, in this situation I find shavings get away faster. I have my hand deflecting shavings which often jam in a deep flute which meant I wasted time having to prise them out. As you saw, I did use a push cut once the overall shape is established. Stuart did not invent the push cut: I'd been using it for at least ten years before I met him in around 1981. He was then mid-teens. I read about the push cut in Frank Pain's 'The Practical Woodturner'. In 1970 d/f bowl gouges were square ground. I rounded the left wing and this led to my asymmetric grind and the many current variations. My gouges have always had a double bevel.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks. Much appreciate. Stuart Batty, as far as I'm aware anyway, does not claim to have "invented" the push cut. He apparently called his method/style a push because it was the opposite of his left handed friend, Mike Mahoney's method of "pulling" his gouge around the outside of a bowl. At least that was the story I heard.
@@mccallan2798 I've accually try in my beginnings both 40/40grind and just push cut and mahoney style..... Push cut is great for finish cuts, while using wing like mahoney get rid of wood quick and easy.... The problem I have with using 40/40 grind us that is not that versitile and honesly none of us need in first steps of roughing bowl to be beatiful surface and very skillful cut for beginers...... I also started using spindle gouge on smaller bowls just beacuse I'm shaping and putting tenon with one tool and doesn't need to change it which makes me faster....... And using Raffan asymetric grind really does have advantages Like hollowing is a brees and left full curve wing really does that fat shavings..... Sorry to add on your comment,hope I could help.....
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning Thank you. Please don't apologize for commenting. What better way to learn something than to hear it from someone with experience.
I use the 40/40 grind on bowls and spindle work. It took me a while to learn the technique but I feel I can take a larger cut straight to finish. I like that it only takes seconds to sharpen as well. I would eventually like to learn to turn like Richard too. I love watching him. I just haven’t practiced pulling the cut around enough and he’s a master with scrapers.
Keep on rowing…
Maybe a little deeper foot? Less aggressive with the tool? Maybe use a scraper?
The catch at 22:28 occurred mostly because I couldn't see the gouge cutting. Normally I'd be right over the lathe bed and blocking the camera no matter its position. With cross-grain a deeper foot or longer tenon doesn't help much, whereas it does on endgrain. I could have used a square-end scraper to hog out the waste but I'd still want to finish using the gouge. Roughing cuts with the gouge are practice for the final pass. Going thin with scrapers risks a catch that can disintegrate the bowl, but it's also tediously slow compared to a couple of clean shear cuts using a gouge.
Check jaws are too far apart. Surprised you did not switch to a more appropriately sized check jaws!
I've downsized, and these jaws are the largest I have for that size foot. The chuck grip was more than adequate. Had jaws fitted closely around the foot, the foot would have stayed in the chuck.
Hm I guess that's a _third_ way of removing the foot from a bowl.
Just one of many.