Toyota LandCruiser 40 60 80 70 76 78 79 105 Hilux Knuckle CV and Birfield Rebuild
2020 ж. 18 Нау.
159 574 Рет қаралды
In this video we look at the Toyota LandCruiser 40 60 80 70 76 78 79 105 Hilux Knuckle CV and Birfield rebuild.
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What DIY maintenance task do you want a video on?
Tie rod replacement would be great. Loved this vid!
Valve clearance adjustment (on a 75 series) would be good too.
Twin lipped seal was a brilliant idea as well as the locking nut for the wheel bearings. Long live the 80 series 😉 Great vid thanks
Ujoints. It's never a good time and a different perspective always helps. This is quite a soothing video
Wheel alignment
Great informative video. Easy to follow and understand. Thank you for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks a million mate, last night I watched twice, today I did both sides on a 60 and new callipers and rotors. Thanks to this demonstration I could confidently do the task and guide a mate through the other side at the same time.
Fantastic! I'm glad we could help a little bit to keep the mighty 60 on the road!
One of the best videos on this subject. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Awesome mate. I have recommended this video a few times. Learnt heaps. You are legend amongst 80 series owners.
Not sure about that, but thanks mate!
Отличное видео! Спасибо огромное! Особенно отмечу, с какой любовью автор крутит железки! Круто!
Thanks!
Thanks for very clear and concise instruction. I am about to do my HJ75.
Just take your time, it's a pretty straightforward job, just messy.
Absolute legend, thanks
You're welcome!
3:05 praise the gods, a Toyota youtuber that doesn't like flogging out the sides of the hub!
I would, but the stupid cone washers wouldn't seat properly afterward.... :)
Great video. Great to hear the couple of extra tips coming from experience.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
locating the felt and ring etc - put shortened skewer sticks through the holes to locate the assembly in position. Replace one by one with bolts
That's a fantastic idea!
Brilliant video mate. Has given me the confidence to do mine, thanks!
Thanks mate! If you've got any questions, don't hesitate to drop a comment asking.
Excellent video mate. Thanks so much for posting up. I have learnt a lot.
Glad you liked it!
Everything you did made complete sense. Thanks for explaining all, to include the after market lock nut/washer
Thanks mate, the aftermarket lock nut is great.
brilliant , exactly what i have been looking for , thanks mate
Cheers! Glad you liked it.
Best info video I've ever seen on the knuckle assembly!
Thanks mate!
This video is very well done .. When I'm out in the bush and if something stuffs up I'll be able to fix it myself ..!! Cheers
Thanks! Glad you liked the video.
Thanks mate! learned a lot. Enough to giver a go on the old 60. Cheers from Canada
Thanks!
Have done this 3 or 4 times now. This is a really good video.
Thanks!
Mate ur a legend so glad I found this informative guide. I need to do mine but have been putting it off due to nerves and considering taking it to the shop. But now I've seen this im gonna give it a crack. Cheers for the confidence boost mate. Subbed 🤘
Mate, stuff like this can be done with reasonably basic tools in your driveway or garage. As 4WDers, the more self sufficient we are, the better off we are.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, it’s much appreciated! I will refer back to this when doing my 76 . Thanks again
No worries mate, I just did an early 79 (1hd-fte) and other than the number of wheel studs, it's virtuality the same.
Hey mate , where did you get your aftermarket spindle nut from ? I spoke with superior eng and they say they don’t make one for a 76 ? I thought they would be the same same as other models ?
@@davidmirfin1380 check out roadrunner, says it fits the 79 so should fit the 76 as well. www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/300519-kit-toyota-chromoly-spindle-nut-set-live-ax
nicely done sir., u made something so hard look so easy and fun to do. keep it up and stay safe mate
Thanks mate!
Great Vid, A quick tip to make life a little easier. If you put your bearing races in the freezer overnight before you install they slightly contract from the cold and go in much easier without having to bash them, they are still tight but you can tap them in instead of bashing them in then they expand back with normal temperature, I still use a little cam bearing grease on the race so it's not dry when fitting them in.
About 30 years ago I used that very trick to insert valve guides in a mini head, after the head sat in the oven for a couple of hours. (Yes I am that old!) Another trick I've used is to turn a can of air duster upside down and spray the liquid on the part that needs to shrink. I must drag out the FLIR one day and see how cold I can get it!
Looks like the rubber mallet and brass drift will be my friends when doing this on an 1986 Land Cruiser.
110%!
Very thorough instruction and some great hints and advice. Murphy dictates that the call to help the neighbour with the snake will only come at the most inopportune time. I could just hear your thoughts at that moment but I won't repeat them here.
Thanks, the snake was at one of the kid's houses, over half an hour's drive from us!
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing this! Very helpful. Following from the usa. Need to rebuild my 61s knuckles, i will be following your video. I am one of the lucky few who is running a 12HT in the usa. Cheers!
Most of the landcruisers here in Oz are diesel and will often sell for twice the price of there petrol bretheran. I can only imagine how hard diesels are to come across in the states!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing 12HT was never offered here. We only have imports from Japan, Europe, South America etc. Extremely rare and hard to find Left hand drive versions. A lot of people drive JDM 61s but RHD is a turn-off here in the USA. Mostly we have FJ60 and some 62. FJ62 are more desirable and more expensive. Some BJ60 available too.
Replacing my brake rotors on 80 series and this helped a lot (mines part time 4wd so had no clue what I was doing)
Cheers!
Good on you mate
Thanks!
awesome vid mate, very thorough and in depth. subbed and liked!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Last year I did four of these on 80 series cruisers in outback NSW. Now have one in my garage that needs it (leaking inner seal) after a trip to Cape York. Still learnt a lot from your practical video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it, I've done a few over the years! The more I do, the more inclined I am to drive around bog holes!
Excellent tutorial mate!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Just watched your video, in order to help a mate change the swivel seals on his FJ45. A great video. A suggestion for helping align the felt, rubber and retaining plates is to make two studs that you can insert into the housing.I usually use long bolts of the correct thread, cut the head off, then cut a slot for a standard screwdriver. Install the studs loosely, one top, one bottom. Hang the rubber, felt and plates on the studs, add the bolts. Then wind out the studs and replace with the standard bolts. Cheers and thanks for the great video Greg
That's a great idea! Like putting wheels back on an Amarok.
Good one Cobber - keeping it real!
Thanks mate!
Thanks mate. My 62 has a concerning audible knock front left under certain circumstances. Your tutorial equips me for the urgent task ahead...
The Y62 being IFS is pretty similar to the front of a 200, I've got a video on the channel on how to change one out.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you sir. But it's not the mighty Y62. Instead, my daily drive is a humble farmer's FJ62 in the beautiful SA BushVeld. Pardon me the miscommunication please. Best.
Apologies! Of the two, I would much prefer yours than a Y62!
outstanding! working on fj60. this video is informative.
Glad it helped!
very informative mate, well done !
Thanks mate!
Great video mate! 👌
Thanks!
Hello from California. This is a great video and you made something overwhelming look so easy and straightforward. I had mine done on my FJ62 by a professional, but will tackle it myself next time. Just curious about setting the preload, that seems a bit tricky.
The main thing with the bearing, both the kingpin and wheel bearings it to make sure 100% the outer races are seated properly, otherwise the corrugations are going to ruin the preload on the bearings and then they usually destroy themselves. A lot of experienced people just use feel to set the preload, though I though it better in the vid to set the preload the way I know it works, measure it and quote a figure, because not everyone has done it a dozen times. Just take your time (photos on the phone at different angles are always good when you're pulling apart something new) And don't forget lots of rags!
great information, Thank you
You're welcome!
Will doing my ln106r hilux soon and this is very informative
Glad it helped!
This is great, thanks.
Cheers!
Thanks mate
No worries!
Well detailed video 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks!
Thanks mate, much appreciated!
G'day mate , awsome video thanks for the info
No worries!
Thanks 🙏😊
You're welcome!
brilliant video man
Thanks!
Nice 🔥
Thanks 🔥
Nice video. Would love to see steering overhaul / maintenance vids
Great suggestion!
THANK YOU😉👍️🎶
You're welcome!
bon travail merci
Thanks!
Top video
Thanks!
Thanks.. good video & explain .🔥❤️..
Thanks!
Thanks mate good video
Cheers!
Can you do rear handbrake shoes video please mate
For a 80 series 👍
Aren't they painted on the LandCruisers? :)
Great video! Thanks. Subbed.
Thanks! We're glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you
Honestly I really can't thank you enough
Mate, glad to help! The more self sufficient we can all be with mechanical repairs, the better off we'll be if something goes wrong outback.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing couldn't agree more!
Exelente amigo 👍
Cheers!
Brilliant! Thanks. Much appreciated. Learnt a lot of important tips. Well... here goes... :)
Glad you liked it!
Great video ! I have a leaking wiper seal on passenger side. Where is your work shop hahah . Thanks bud . Great video
My "workshop" for this one was in the driveway, right next to the bins! :) Glad you like the video mate.
those races on the wheel bearing look nasty as. all darkened. Good vid.
Thanks!
Thankyou
You're welcome!
hi Major parts u missed 1/ axle/seal center line sets the total shim pack thickness eg top + bottom . Toyota dealers use this tool 2/ remove shims equally top and bottom to set preload drag on king pin bearing 3/ check drag with spring pull gauge ,,,,,,,,set drag to 6kg Toyota spec ------Aftermarket 1/ eccentric king pin bearings ,allows adjustment of caster and camber for wheel alignment
If you're replacing the king pin bearings with decent quality units, I haven't found the need to adjust the shim stack. I've also never seen shims on the bottom, only the top.
great Vid lookng at doing mine for the first time a bit more on the shimes and steering drag would have been nice cause I can't see what you feel..haha keep up the great work cheers
The process is detailed in the factory service manual. Basically though, once assembled (including wipers on the back), place a spring balance (fish scale) in the drag link tie rod hole and pull toward yourself with the fish scale, the starting friction should be in between 2.5-4.5kg, if it's more, you'll need thinner shims, and if it's less, you'll need thinner shims. lt's basically the same with the wheel bearing adjustment in the factory service manual, though this time the spring balance goes on the wheel stud and the reading should be in between 2.8-5.7kg. Though my experimentation with the wheel bearing pre-load spindle nut and different torque values didn't seem to give much change in the drag of the bearings at all, I assume the viscosity of the grease used etc. would play a large part in that. Hence me not giving too much time to the subject, the main thing all of the slop is out and there is some preload on the king pin bearings. Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing This helps a lot now I have a reference , may be time to get a service manual for these things , one last thing where did you get the spacer for the backing plate or did you just cut down the backing plates, like you sick of squealing rocks..haha as always Thank You
Thanks for this video. Will be doing my swivel hubs soon and this will help me out a lot. What is that rtv blue product? Cheers
G'day the rtv blue is a Permatex product. www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-sensor-safe-blue-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/
Hello from Russia! very useful video)
Thanks from Australia!
Serpentine belt tensioner assembly and water pump and alternator would be good. All that gear sitting on the front.
Very informative video. Question. Why do you tightened the preload bearing so much ? Should be finger tight or im wrong? Thanks
For road going stuff finger tight is fine. For off-road, you need to settle the bearings properly, or the preload will loosen up in service.
Great video thanks. What can I use instead of a brass drift ? Can’t get my hands on a brass drift or a hammer.
Aluminium should work as well.
Great video made it look so easy. Where do u get the streaming arm tool
That particular one came from Repco.
What style/brand puller did you use for the steering arm? Part # for the aftermarket rotor/spindle bearing/seal upgrade? Great job. California FJ60
The puller is "Repco" brand, the seals are avaliable from Terrain Tamer.
Could you do a power steering pump removal re build and install? On the 80
Hmmm, that could be interesting!
Hi from Sout Africa!! Thanks for a great video!!..my cruiser 79 pickup 4.5 is on tressels for recon both front cv's my question is..can i remove both cv axles at once?..will i be able to push the shafts back into the diff?..
Yes, that isn't an issue.
Can you show the place for the top up nut 76 series
HI, thanks for the video. The torques you mention are the same also for 70 series or are there any differencies? Another thing, a pre-load is to be adjusted only by a torque or there is something more to do? Thanks.
While I used the same torque on a 79, you're probably best consulting the factory service manual. When it comes to the wheel bearing preloaded adjustment, there is a process in the factory service manual that involves using a spring balance on one of the studs and adjusting the preload on the nut and checking the drag on the bearing using the spring balance. I did try it once, though really cranking down on the preload nut didn't seem to make that much difference on the reading from the spring balance.
Hello from San Diego, my name is Adan, thanks for your help!!, I have a 1982 Toyota pickup when I turn either left or right I have a weird pop , any ideas what I’m dealing with?
Check the tie rod ends.
How did you get the cv-joint off the axle? I have seen several videos showing to put the shaft in a vice and banging on the cv inner race with a hammer & punch. I have replaced many cv-joints on passenger cars, & 4x4 SUV & pick-ups and managed to remove the cv-joint using the same method. However, on 4x4 such as the Land Cruisers, Nissan Patrol and Land Rovers with solid axle housings it is almost impossible to get them off without damaging something. Some of the ones I did manage to get out had the c-clip mangled by the splines when forced through the cv-joint. Of all of the on-line videos, some of which are great videos showing the complete repair / rebuild of the cv-joint (cleaning, replacing & lubing them) but not one of them showed how they remover the cv from the axle shaft. I made up a tool consisting of a pipe long enough, approximately 4 inches longer than the axle shaft & large enough to fit over the axle shaft so that the pipe fits against the inner race of the cv-joint. By inserting the axle shaft and cv-joint into the pipe vertically and lifting the shaft & cv and slamming it onto the pipe usually does the trick on the SUV, Pick-ups and passenger cars (External type shafts & axles). However, 50% of the time on the solid axle type housings even with the pipe jig I just cannot get them apart. What I did notice on L Cruiser cv-joint the outer end of the cv-joint where the shaft splines onto the cv-joint the bore was slightly chamfered so as to collapse the c-clip when the shaft is inserted into the cv-joint. However, the inner bore was not chamfered which prevented the c-clip from collapsing when trying to remove the shaft. I am assuming that the chamfered side should be on the inner side so as to collapse the c-clip and easy to remove the axle. I have seen one video of the complete rebuild and replacing the cv-joint on a solid axel type where the mechanic mentioned he had to remove the inner c-clip prior to removing the axel however, he didn’t show that procedure in the video. I cannot see any way how he could get access to that c-clip with the shaft installed into the cv-joint. If anyone has any suggestions or comments on this please comment.
I've also used the pipe trick. I've used the brass drift and hammer method in another vid (replacing CV boots) on IFS cars. I too have mangled the clip to get them apart. It usually involves lots of swearing.....
Awesome video mate thanks a lot, youve done well, videos circulating through the cruiser groups now! How much grease did you buy?
I usually get two punnets of lithium grease and two punnets of high temp bearing grease to do the front.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks mate! Would you happen to have a link for the double lip seals by any chance?
Terrain Tamer sell them.
What size is the insertion tool you used on the inner axel seal? Do you know of it's the same on the 60? I'm trying to get my ducks in row for my first bearing/knuckle rebuild on my cruiser.
I used the 50mm insertion tool to insert the inner axle seal, it's the same size I use for the king pin bearings. Unfortunately I'm not sure if the 60 series is the same.
Hi, good video. Can you provide us with detail of the replacement oil seal please?
The double seals were purchased from Road Runner Off-Road. I understand Terrain Tamer also now sell the seals.
I have a 94’ HZJ75 troopy, will it be similar to this? Both mine need replacing and am contemplating tackling the challenge! Awesome video
It'll be almost identical, grab plenty of rags and have at it!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing your a legend! Saving me hundreds
@@brockcooper6234 It's not just the cash. The self sufficiency is priceless!
How often would you consider doing the swivel hub rebuild ? Even if hubs get a bit greasy and messy 80k ?
It depends how often and hard you go 4WDing! I do bearings once a year and knuckles every other year usually.
Great video mate 👍 Cheers
Cheers!
Just wondering what the cir clip behind the free wheeling hub actually does? Does it stop the axle moving ?
Yep, it limits the CVs travel long ways.
Great Video mate very educational. question when you tight the spindle nut for preload some people light tight it , some medium tight it, but your was extreme tight is what's the difference
Tighten the inner preload nut tight first to settle the bearing races in the hub and then back it off and tighten to spec on the second go. That way you're sure when you hit the corrugations, your wheel bearings won't loose the preload.
@Lock your Hubs 4WDing one question when I'm in a rocky area or off-road sometimes I hear a clunk noise behind my foot or my right wheel RHD(right hand drive) I changed everything tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings. greased right side axle. still I hear the same noise any idea?
@@jdmgm6765 check for cracks in the chassis around the steering box, it's a fairly common issue unfortunately. If you find cracks, they'll need to be properly welded up and then re-enforcing plates welded over the top to make sure it doesn't happen again.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing didn't see any crank rig has 150km could a king pin do that clunk noise
@@jdmgm6765 the easiest way to check the kingpins is lift up the RHF wheel, grab it at 12 and 6 o'clock, give it a wiggle. If you can feel play, that's the kingpin bearings. If you do the same thing at 9 and 3 o'clock, and feel movement, that's wheel bearings.
Have you got any further info on where i can get the double lip seal and the bearing lock washer that doesn't require locking tab???
The seals are avaliable from Terrain Tamer and the spindle nut is from Trail Gear, I understand Superior Engineering in Oz sell them.
Superior sell a bit of the trail gear kit.. though they warn up to a 6 week delivery leadtime
Nice efforts. Nice video. This is a Teaching video for many like me. Plz do add some links of every tool you used in this video. It would be highly helpful to find those online. Keep uploading. BIG THUMBS UP….. Warm Regards. -42:10 “separater” plz add online link for this particularly.
Hi mate, been a while since you posted this but was just curious, where did you pick up the limited slip double lip seal and fancy locknut and tab washer? Been dying to try and figure it out as I can’t find them for the life of me. Cheers.
Terrain Tamer are the stockists!
Hey Cobber, I believe the after market front hub locking nut kit doesn't work on fulltime fwd , was hoping to use on 105, use the 3 x finer for rear. Using the "spindle greaser" conflicts with using moly grease to the extent you use it ? any thoughts ? and noticed you mixed moly and bearing grease when spindle bearing was on spindle hub with moly !
Hmmmm, I've done a full time 80 before and the kit I use is exactly the same either full time or part time. The kit supplies new outer and inner locking nuts and tab washer. Not sure if the 105 is different? The spindle greaser will "hopefully" push out the old grease and deposit new, either moly or HTB. Doesn't matter, new grease is better than old! I've not seen any adverse issues arise using moly and HTB grease in close proximity to one another.
Great video, whats the best kit / place to get parts and tools for this job? I'm in the USA though so it may not apply to me. Thanks again.
We used the Terrain Tamer kit.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing What about that bearing you are using? @ 34:26
The bearing used are Koyo as used by Toyota, purchased through Terrain Tamer. The double lipped seal is also avaliable through Terrain Tamer.
What size brass drift would you recommend for maintenance work on the Cruiser? Cheers mate
I've got 2, a 12mm and a 20mm. That seems to cover most things I've come across.
33:37 Where do you buy the "double-lip" seal and what are they called in ebay/amazon etc? It seems I can't find one for my 75 series. Thank you.
Terrain tamer stock them.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you. And your video had helped me A LOT in rebuilding my 1985 landcruiser knuckle!
I'm interested in the spindle nut and locking mechanism with Allen keys.. I can't seem to find anything online, could you perhaps point me in the right direction? Cheers 🍻
It's a trail gear product.
Hi mate, ive done that side and now doing the passenger side, and for the life of me, i cant get the longer axle back into the diff. I feel ive tried so much ill ruin the new seal. any advice would be good
Do you have factory lockers with the longer spline/axle? And if so is the locker turned off?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing has no lockers, ln106r 93
Hi I notice in this video you state the final wheel bearing pre load was 25nm but in another video of yours doing a similar job you say its 25ftlb can you clarify which it is please ?
Please see the answer to your other comment on the brake upgrade video.
So i totally forgot the part where i should of put my stone gaurd back on.. any harm of leaving it off without a spacer plate ?
No, you'll be fine.
Donde se puede ver en español lo felicito por su explicación paso a paso
Gracias, desafortunadamente, no tengo una versión en español
Howdy mate, I have a 2006 LC 105 GX 1HZ, same running gear as that beast you're fiddling with... Went to buy new tyres today but saw that the front left wheel had some play and thus I needed to remove, check and adjust the bearings (pretty new, only about 20k km). Pulled off the wheel, calliper and hub to find the wheel-bearing grease in the hub was black, but not runny. As if it's been contaminated by the airfield / cv grease? I haven't stripped any further but the smell of this grease is akin to the LMM Castrol CV grease I used in the ball-joint and cv, so I'm thinking there's just been some cross-contamination here? Would overfilling the ball-joint / airfield / cv with LMM grease (probably what I did 'cause I like over-engineering cause it to push outwards along the shaft and into the wheel-bearing hub and mix with the thicker Lithium WB grease? From the comments above it doesn't seem like this is a train smash? What else do you think I could check? Will adjust the wheel bearings properly this time!
If it's not runny from an oil contamination, it sounds like the cv/knuckle was overfilled and has contaminated the wheel bearings.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thanks mate, my deduction as well. Only slight bit of black grease came out so no worries...I repacked with standard and put her back together all sweet. Cheers
Not sure if it’s already been asked, but, do you think the freewheeling hubs ( part time) actually improve the 80 series? Fuel , handling etc ? Keen to hear your thoughts please!
The fuel saving is minimal, the only reason I would convert is the vibrations from the front drive shaft that you can get with 3"+ suspension lifts.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thank you!
After you finished the preload you didnt show yourself backing off the nut prior to torquing to 25nm. Could be a trap for some watching.
Thanks must have missed that one in the edit.
What grease would you recommend if we can’t easily get the Penrite in the US? 1987 fj60 USA
Any quality grease will do the job, I've used Valvoline with success, the marine bearing grease seems to work great on the wheel bearings.