5 CLEVER Tricks For Perfect Circular Saw Cuts
Getting tear out and splintered cuts with a circular saw is completely avoidable! See how you can get perfectly clean and sharp cuts with these 5 clever tricks. #diy #circularsaw #woodworking
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Really like this bloke. No ashamed to show his mistakes. Very clear instructions. Very helpful.
I think it is great to include the mistakes. As you said, we all make them. Keeping the mistakes in the video improves the "humanity" of the video. Also, it keeps us alert for easy mistakes that we could make.
Thank you…..I bought I was doing it wrong at times… very informative….greetings from down under Australia…stay safe…
Great hints and reminders on the use of a circular saw. Very helpful.
When I make a saw guide track, I mark it with both the saw and the type of blade I used since some blades have a slightly wider kerf than others. I normally use my 5 1/2-inch circular saw with a plywood blade as my "track saw".
This saw kzhead.infoUgkx84IcU5pbZd1Qrz8u4-YRLmJax7kdRi7B comes in handy in many ways. When I had a small (dead) tree fall I started the process of disposal by using this saw and cutting off the small branches. Then slowly work on the small trunk with undercutting and letting it fall down. With many trees on acres of land paying for a tree service can be expensive. It also is nice in that it can be used in hard to get areas like along my creek. It's also safer and quieter than a chainsaw. It obviously can't cut down massive trees but it does work fine for small ones or brush. And of course since I already own a Black
I found your video very useful. Thanks. Well done.
Great tips! I'll definitely be trying these!
Very thorough coverage.
Where did you get the shop vac adapter for your saw? I have a Ridgid circular saw and would love to connect to shop vac or my dc. Thanks!
Very good and detail video . Thanks for sharing your knowledge .👍👍
Thank you for making this video. Very well done, helpful and informative. Cheers! 😀
Great job!
very helpful...Thank you.
Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Gracias por los consejos👏
Always informative and a great video! Thanks Nils!
Thank you, Shawn! Have a good one :)
@LRN2DIY Thanks for this video. You've really explained a lot of questions I had. Just purchased a hand held circular saw (Tough Master TM-MCS115). I'm no expert at carpentry and would say my knowledge and experience is as beginner/basic you'll get. When I've used a hand saw to cut wood, the teeth have always faced downward or facing into the cut so I was really puzzled why the teeth of this circular saw faced upwards. In this video at 2m and 30 seconds for about 10 seconds, the animation of a circular saw rotation direction showing how the blade cuts is the best visual explanation I've seen. I've got plenty of off-cuts of MDF wood to experiment with (as this is what I'll be cutting) ... and it seems as if I should cut the reverse side to give the side which will be visible the cleanest of cut.
The square is a good design thanks a mill for posting
Excellent , thx
I have serious misgivings about the zero clearance shoe. You're going to forget the bladed is exposed, for say, just one time. Either the work piece gets damaged, you touch the spinning blade, or you incautiously set it down and the saw "runs" away. It's as dangerous as removing the blade guard. You cannot get a full zero clearance attachment on a hand held saw. I've used the two step method for years (cut the veneer then make the full cut) and have never had plywood tear-out issues, even for crappy plywood and even with moderately worn carbide blades.
The two step option seems like the best option for clean cuts, especially since, as you mentioned, it doesn't compromise safety at all.
I agree 100%. You can get the same benefits and safety. Simply cut a hole in the rear of the new saw plate for the blade guard. The blade still has the zero clearance at the front for a clean cut.. You do not need zero clearances at the back of the blade. The rear half of the blade is not cutting anything.
As in the first example, I make a shallow notch, but I reverse saw so that the teeth of the saw go straight into the disc and do not lift. Then I lower and saw normally forward. I also have a blade where every other tooth takes the outer edge of the slot and every other one in the middle. My cuts are completely without lifting stitches, but like they were cut with a razor-sharp knife.
Great tips 🎉
Thanks
Another great video. I can always trust you for enjoyment with my coffee.
Thank so much and enjoy that coffee!
Great video! Very informative. When making a zero clearance shoe, a piece of plexiglass may be good so you can see your cut line.
Great video!
Great info. Would it make sense, using the blue painters tape "method" in combination with the zero-clearance extended shoe, to make the initial plunge cut and minimize the tear out on your material used for the bottom shoe extension?
Diablo blades are the best!
thanks Nils
5:40 you’re actually hilarious 😂😂😂😂… That really made me laugh, so much I showed it my girlfriend who also lol’d!! Great video too, thank you
Nils, these are great. I have used the tape method many times, and I will have to try the others. In fact, I'm making a lot of cuts today; these will come in handy.
Thanks, Mitch! Yeah, the tape method is very quick and handy and hopefully some of the others are helpful for you!
For the OSZCTSG I usually spray wd on the sliding surface + wipe some onto the circ saw bottom surface. Or wax. I also use a rubber band to hold the shield back. As much as possible to start and continue a clean cut.
Excellent video Brother
Thanks, Will!
Nice 🙏🏼
its obvious you are a pro...thanks for also being real.....new sub
Cut path safety, please keep your fingers out of the blade path (@ 6:57)
Yes, good video, thanks, I find when kitchen fitting and cutting painted board which has to be perfect, a fine tooth saw light cut first (about 1-2mm) then full depth cut makes the cleanest cut. I believe Phesto track saws have the function automatically.
Loved your graphic of the cutting blade. Did you do it yourself?
9:52 - 😂 hahaha, I know this feeling.
Great stuff as always matey! Bob England
Appreciate your work. Safety issue: the polystyrene under the job is being powdered by the saw. Highly, Highly toxic
Actually no, polystyrene dust is not particularly toxic. See www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7193629/. Key quote: "It is generally accepted that microplastic particles are not harmful or at best minimal to human health."
the painters tape is my favorite technique
8:17 bookmarking this for future reference, really cool!
Some nice methods there! Ive found if I simply climb cut with the blade only 1/8” out first and then drop the blade to push saw forward and finish cut it eliminates almost all blemishes. No tape needed and will cut even that crappy finished mdf shelving that home depot sells now.
higher count tooth makes great finish
I know nothing of using a circular saw. I'm starting my first home project (installing flooring) in the next few weeks. I was concerned about using the circular saw. I know some things only come with practice, but who knows how much waste would be generated if I didn't stumble upon your videos first. Thanks for sharing what you know - it is truly appreciated! Also, I love that you're using safety gear!
just remember to never place your fingers in the path of the blade (above or below the workpiece) & never bind the blade (allow the cut piece to fall freely). also, always start the saw up behind the workpiece, then move slowly into it. lots of time people carelessly start the blade up right next to the wood & it destroys the piece & it can cause kickback. Good luck!
is this a PIR foam board you're cutting on? might not be all too good to breathe its dust in i heard
For the zero clearance plate build a stand that you can put the saw down on. 🤔 🏴👍
#3 was the method shown to me as a child by my carpenter granddad born ~1933. What is shown here seems a long way around the idea that was shown to me though. Draw your line to be cut, put down another piece of plywood right along that line sitting atop the wood to be cut, and then cut the board, allowing a blade depth just deep enough to account for the added offset. Fancier methods have their time and place but keeping around a bunch of templates seems taxing even with the space of a shop, and out in the field it seems outright unpractical. 'Painters tape' is more ubiquitous these days than it used to be, I suspect because of the development in adhesives used in similar products like post it notes. The two ideas seems related though, #3 and the tape.
Nice graphics!
Thank you! And thanks for watching :)
Capture 😂❤
All these years I listened to bad tips and horrible advice. Yeah it’s nice to have pro skills but wood is expensive and mistakes waste time. Thank you!! Saved and Subscribed!
Doesn't the tip about the bottom face is the good face get disproved by the very clean cuts you had when you scored the top face in the previous 2 tips?
Excellent thank you Nils. Why don’t you leave the last version on the saw all the time? When would you want less than the best cut one can achieve? We’re you searching for the word ‘capture’ by the way? Bob England
Hey Bob, good to hear from you. The only reason you might take it off is for angled cuts. The zero clearance shoe is really only set up for 90 degree cuts but you could make separate ones for 45s and such too. And yes! That’s the word I was looking for. Cheers!
crafty dude... haha
Fun fact is I keep my edc so sharp I can cut luan as if it was cardboard my coworkers didn’t believe me but I proved everyone wrong. Now everyone wants me to sharpen there knives and chisels and whatnot 😂
Capture
On a circular saw there is a small side and a large side, the large side is more stable on top of the wood and cuts straighter, more stable and just better over all.
Start with cutting with the weight of saw supported. You cut with the wide part of the baseplate unsupported which is why the saw tilted that caused the burning.
Recent tip for making the OSZCTSG. First, check that your blade is parallel to guide. Mine was out of alignment most probably because of a fall. Next, if you can leave a little more than an 1/8, if you skim here you have a chance that the blade will deflect. In the same note, do a slim cut first and also don't cut way deeper than you need to avoid deflecting.
Great tip on that one. Thanks so much!
@@LRN2DIY I learnt the hard way... but having a OSZCTSG is a must!!
I believe "capture" was the word you were looking for.
Hey LRN2DIY, I was waiting for you to say “you know, to make it more rigid (RIDGID)” @14:00. Would have been a good pun.
Missed opportunity! Haha - thanks for sharing.
@@LRN2DIY thanks for the tips! I’ll be trying the zero clearance tip in the morning.
Un consejo cortar un milímetro antes para evitar ese desperfecto y luego reparar con lija o ruteadores
Generally good tips, but a few safety concerns. 1. The cuts made early in the video show poor practice. The wide part of the shoe should be on the “keeper” board so that the center of gravity of the saw is well supported. The narrow part of the shoe should be over the waste piece. This provides more stability and keeps a better 90 cut angle lessening the chance of binding, burning and kickback. 2. Never have your free hand away from the saw and unsupported as shown at the 7:00 mark. It is better to rest your free hand on the saw motor or blade housing to provide more control in case of binding or kickback. This also lessens the chance of getting a finger in the saw while holding the guard open when the hand is well supported. 3. The “zero clearance shoe” is just a bad idea. Don’t do that. Period.
I appreciate the tips!
Why is the zero clearance shoe such a bad idea?
@@Lennart1995I’m wondering the same as I am about to make one lol. ‘Just don’t do that’ didn’t convince me.
@@briandimascio3624 ok how about "BECAUSE?" Seriously though, my guess would be he doesn't like it being taped on like that. It could move while in use, bind up with the blade and go flying.
@@briandimascio3624I’m guessing the same thing Fredrocks says, plus, it doesn’t allow the hood to completely cover the blade, which is there to prevent accidents
I think the guard on a skilsaw is more dangerous than without, especially when cutting small pieces.....keep the saw facing down while blade is spinning and there is no reason to be nervous......as a builder since 80s Ive learned to just turn saw sideways and lay the saw down after a cut....the guard is a PITA
6:55 The hand in front of the blade?🙆🏻♂️😳
Nowadays, you can use carbide multi wheel for worry free fine cuts.
I want your circular saw.....😊😊😊😊😊😊
why dont you set the blade down 1/16 then cut backwards then cut as normal
The ledges are a good idea -- why not extend them all around to create a "shoe", and then flush mount some rare earth magnets into it. Then you can quickly add/remove it from the saw between cuts (?)
That's a wonderful idea! I didn't even think of magnets. I'm working on a different shoe solution and magnets absolutely make sense. Thank you!
My saw has an aluminum base.
Awesome, measure once cut twice Great thank god it’s only 1/4 inch thick any thicker this video would be an hour long
A lot of people don't know the trick about making sure the side showing being face down
I have a circular saw that bucks like crazy. Im terrified to use it. Yet I have tried all the suggested things, like using a new sharp blade, making sure the work piece is flat, I use a jig to go straight like you did, and still does it. Smokes, burns and binds up. What am I doing wrong? Thanks and as usual I learn a lot from your videos and the hard work that you put in to them does not go unnoticed.
Boy, that' s a tough one. If you've got a new blade (decent tooth count, like 40+?) and you're definitely cutting in a straight line, then the only other thing I can think of is that maybe the blade isn't seated properly on the arbor. I wonder if you can borrow someone else's circular saw and see if you notice a difference. Could be a manufacturing defect that makes it wobbly or lopsided, I suppose. Thanks for watching and for your kind words and I hope you find a solution!
@@LRN2DIY It's an old saw now but it was new when I bought it and it has had this problem since the first time I used it with both the blade that came with it and different new blades. It's a Milwaukee corded saw from around 2008 back when those tools were more robust in my opinion. I have a much newer M18 cordless circ saw that is fine but I haven't tried to cut sheet stock with it yet, only dimensional lumber. Most of the time I cut sheet stock on a panel saw or table saw. Circular saw is really only for when I'm in the field which isn't all that often.
Check the alignment of the saw to the base, something is getting pinched and you are experiencing kick back.
Make sure the depth of the blade is not too deep. Set the depth to approx. thickness of material + 1/8”. If the blade is too deep, then more surface area of it is exposed to the material and is more likely to bind and kick
@@TheKingOfInappropriateCommentsprovavelmente tua máquina é apropriada para carpintaria sem grande precisão, trabalho bruto. Para marcenaria tem poucos modelos com precisão mais adequada. Mas o uso correto também ajuda.
"capture"
13:29 Set screw: the phrase you’re looking for is “captively mate”. It’s an Australian thing, mate. (And that’s just wrong-I’m Irish-American.)
🤩👍👍👍
Zero clearance is a good idea...I would make a block to always sit the saw in with a cutout for the blade....or simply drop the place all the way when not using it. Lucky that battery circs have electric brakes. I just cut the other side and have the bottom the 'top' so the cuts always nice generally. But bench tops cant do that
I measure 3 times and cut 4 times.
Better get with the slowmo guys and figure out exactly what's causing the tearing.
They have some pretty amazing cameras for that for sure. My next video will include some slow-mo of the actual tearing but definitely not at 47 gajillion frames per second like theirs : )
tip #6 - stay away from HFT consumables. Diablo costs slightly more, but its quality is light years apart
Ridgid has a new plunge cut track saw. $350
I think you forgot something far more important... Replacing the blade appropriately!
Really? What do you think he was talking about at 5:15?
@@jimcargill-bs2sx he's talking about the model of blade; teeth number, type, etc. What I am referring to is the wear on the teeth of that blade causing a necessity for replacing that specific blade with another blade of the same model. 😊
less worry on that with Diablo. blades. they last.
@@kensleylewis less worry is not no worry. Eventually you need to change the blade. Do it instead of using a full blade. Even Diablo blades can and should be replaced.
@@MikeNovellieu acho que o vídeo é válido em pelo menos dois pontos. O primeiro é praticar a personalização de gabaritos. O segundo é economizar dinheiro por conta do aumento da vida útil de uma serra não afiável ou aumentar o tempo de uso entre afiações e isso é bom para o meio ambiente. Também é válido no caso de dificuldades para afiar ou comprar nova serra. Suponho que seja fabricado na China e pode ter atrasos na importação.
The most common mistake is believing your blade will last longer than it does. New blade day always lets you know how delusional you are.
Tayca dili çeviri var Türkçe yok. Niçin
why don't buy higher tooth count and no problem
Method #6 - invest in a dedicated track saw
1:47 …lose your Milwaukee fastback?
Haha - good question. I bought so many of those flip out blades from other brands when I reviewed the Fastback that I figured I should at least use them once in a while since I have them. I have Fastbacks all over the shop and the house and they're definitely my favorite - literally used one about five minutes ago.
Would you be willing to make a new video explaining the damaging effects on health, by using insulation board to cut on? People will see you doing just this & assume it's OK, it really is not. Please take the time to read safety data on this type product.
Hercules?? Really?
Magneticplastic
Never use a saw like him. Always have a good support for your tool. This is DANGEROUS AND GIVES YOU BAD WORK.
Another way to get better cuts is don’t but your blade from harbor freight, buy a quality saw blade for poor cuts, high quality saw blade for baby butt smooth cuts.
I don't believe the cut with painter's tape. Used the same blade. There's no way tape prevents the burn. That is evident in the second cut.
Or you could just use your chop saw 😂
Serras circulares fabricadas para carpintaria costumam ter alguma folga e não cortar em 90 º com precisão. Essas máquinas deveriam ser evitadas na marcenaria de precisão.
Great tips! I found this really helpful especially the OSZCTSG lol
You last idea is horrible! Most novice users will hurt themselves and not being able to see the blade cutting, just irresponsible. Just use the correct blade and cuts will be just fine.
24 tooth is not the lowest number of teeth you can buy.
True, but it is the lowest common tooth count available. My Home Depot, Lowe's and Harbor Freight, for example, don't carry less than 24T.
@@LRN2DIY: My local HD caries 4 tooth PCD blades, while they can outlaw carbide teeth most people aren’t using them to cut wood products. Amazon also caries a wide variety of blades under 24 teeth as do specially lumber and construction stores. I personally keep 16 tooth blades on hand for fast ring, though I also keep a number of other blades as well with teeth counts up to 120 for the 7 1/4” and even higher for 10” & 12” blades.
Rigid tool 🙀👀🤦🏻 you ain’t a pro use profesional tools . Rigid ain’t a carpenter Choise😂😂😂
Maybe the cut would have been better if the saw was supported properly ?