WHAT IT'S LIKE FALLING AT GIANT MAVERICKS WITH IAN WALSH
When a fall on a historically GIANT day at Mavericks feels like being struck by lightning! This wave may have given me the most electric beating I have ever had. The initial impact from the wave on this fall is the closest thing to what I imagine it feels like getting struck by lightning. An extremely VIOLENT surge of energy!
#IanWalsh #Surfing #Mavericks #KitchenCaptain
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Edit: Noah Andrews @stoke.films
Filmed By: Alarcon Cinema @alarcon_cinema, Pedro Balla @surf.travel.explore, Powerlines Production's Eric Nelson & Curt Myers @powerlinesproductions, Tucker Wooding @woodingmedia, Jimmy Wilson @jimmicane, Fred Pompermayer @fred_pompermayer
Photography By: Marco Arellano @aguatography, Ryan Craig @chachfiles
Thank you to all the locals for sharing your lineup with us and a massive thank you to the entire water safety crew at Mavericks! Thank you!
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About KITCHEN CAPTAIN
Ian Walsh is an award and major event winning professional surfer who enjoys scaring the sh!t out of himself in 50-70 foot surf. This also creates a unique opportunity to push himself. Which is what he is really after.
But let's get to the real reason you're here... KITCHEN CAPTAIN! On this channel, you're going to be thoroughly entertained while learning how to cook at home. Weekly cooking episodes will be served up and there might be a sprinkle or two of high-quality surfing videos. This is not a Michelin star chef show. This is the everyman cooking show in your own kitchen. If Ian can learn to cook it, then so can you. Cooking doesn't need to be hard, but it does need to taste good. There will be mistakes, there will be laughs, and there will be some damn good recipes learned! Put your helmet on, hit that SUBSCRIBE button, and buckle up! Let's go!
This is one of the most descriptive accounts of a wipeout. The level at which the surfer is able to paint the picture in our mind of his experience is truly extraordinary. It brings the ferocity of the ocean much closer to us. Much respect to him and even more respect to the ocean.
Seems like he was pretty calm, lucid and aware despite the beating, pretty valuable if you're going to challenge nature. That and he's a forward storyteller, no embellishment, no ambiguity. The video interlaced with his footage was also nice, you could almost feel what he was describing.
Couldn’t have said it better my man
I mean I not like there's a video of the incident right there
VERY true! The funny thing about the ocean is that the camera never does the conditions justice. Everything from the size of surfing waves and ferocity of the thrashing that surfers receive in wipeouts, all the way to the listing of boats and the heights they climb up, and eventually crash down from, during storms out in the middle of the ocean. People unfamiliar with the ocean, see footage of these types of incidents, and don't see just how crazy and frightening the water can be. You have to be an adrenaline junkie to willingly go out there and experience it all.
Ok
I remember getting smashed by a 2 footer at myrtle beach one year. I thought it was over with for me. This is absolutely insane.
Yea dude I live here and Myrtle beach and just started back surfing this past month and today I was getting the worst beating of my life just wave after wave and the current kept sucking me in and they were getting up to 5 and 6.5 feet
@@noahcamus7096 that’s awesome it’s fun to get beat up by waves
Same i got stuck in an impact zone luckily i swam past it and made it out alive. I was exhausted trying to get out of the water
@@noahcamus7096 nc
Aye fellow Myrtle Beach-er here 🤟🏼 just started surfing a few days ago and my newb ass got dunked by the tiniest wave imaginable. It was pretty funny tbh.
I had a similar experience on a big day at Yallingup about 30 years ago, and I still haven't recovered from it. I had never been in surf so big. Probably 20 foot - or more - up the face. So big that when I paddled out in the channel I was hyperventilating with fear. It was like paddling over mountains. There was only one other surfer out - a bodyboarder - and I just sat in the channel watching. I knew it was out of my league, and I was going to paddle in when I saw a huge set on the horizon. I tried to paddle over it, and made the top of the biggest wave and punched through, but I was in the lip and got sucked back. It was a beating, and I thought I was going to die. I just surfaced in time to draw breath, but I was in the impact zone and another wave hit me right on the head. Already out of breath, and now I was down so deep I didn't even know which way was up, but I grabbed my leg rope for guidance and followed it up. Still in the impact zone, and the biggest wave in the set falling down on my head again. I knew if I went deep I was dead, as I had no breath left. So, I wrapped my arms and legs around my board - an 8' minimal - and held on. When the wave hit I was thrown around like a rag doll in every direction, but I held on like grim death!! If I let go, and went deep I was dead. I probably did go pretty deep, but I let the buoyancy of the board take me to the surface. Luckily I had washed in pretty close to the shore, so I called it a day. My girlfriend was frantic. She said she lost sight of me for a minute, and thought I was dead!! I was close, too close. I learnt my limits that day. A bit over head high is fine by me. I love surfing, but not being scared shitless. I respect these guys that push themselves, but I don't want to die "doing something I love!!"
Cool story, too. Humbling experience, wasn't it?
@@alextrnavski994 Yeah. Most people never really get that close to death. It's amazing how long you can hold your breath when you have to. I actually thought I'd surf bigger and bigger waves, even go to Hawaii one day, but I never wanted to surf really big waves again after that. A bit over head, is fine by me!!
Appreciate the story 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thanks for such a great contribution to the video! I can’t imagine what this feels like… such a descriptive account you gave but I know it has to be indescribable. More power to you… not many people could stay calm enough to live. 🤙
@@Anonnnnymoose Holding onto my board for the last wave was what saved me. I wasn't sure it was even possible, but I couldn't face going deep again. The board was my life preserver. I knew as long as I held on it would take me to the surface without me having to waste any energy or breath swimming. At 61 I still surf, and I just bought a jetski to wakeboard with my teenage sons and kids. I have the utmost respect for people that surf huge waves. The thrill must be amazing. And sometimes I look from the beach and think "Yeah, I could do that." But I'm happier just looking🤣🤣🤣
The difference between acknowledging fear & being scared. His instincts are so solid. Always appreciated his style, intelligence (as a person) and a surfer. Way to take the journey in your hands Ian. So many lessons to be learned from surfing, the righteous rides and the horrendous slides.
Once, as I was rag dolled by a small wave, I remember thinking, "Damn, when will this stop?" I cannot fathom what this would feel like... Probably as close of a simulation of entering a black hole as humanly possible.
... or a washing machine, but black hole is cool too
Same as a child at the beach. I had long long hair so the sand in it weighed it down. Now I’m scarfed af hell nah lol 😂
Exactly, I had that as a kid but i surely remember thinking “when does this end”, I mean... how much courage do u actually need for THIS wave.
Lmao I felt like a tumbleweed when a 20ft wave hit me
its so fucking scary
Dude, I feel like I’m going to die when I get tumbled by a 5 footer💀
Dude I can’t even find a 3 footer 😢
Haha! Me too!
I once was swept off my feet from a 2 footer
Exactly
Same. It's such a damn scary feeling.
That’s terrifying when the jet ski comes to get him the first time and as he is grabbing on you see the entire area quickly overshadowed by the coming wave.
The darkness sets in!!
Its so scary …the video the description ..you guys are incredible
Those were really scary waves.. Glad he's alright!
Seemingly unscathed
never knew you'd comment here lol
The shadow of that third wave. Damn.
Exactly what I was thinking.
Yah I cought that too
No shit! Unbelievable that a wave makes its own shadow. Been hit by 6 footers and thought i was going to die!
Could someone leave a timestamp?
J Doe about 6:10
Unreal. 🙏🙏🙏
You surf bro?
Appreciate that G 🙏🏼
@@adambauer3424 Yeah he does
@@harperkian410 Lol
@@James-ip5gz that’s crazy. Never would have guessed that.
This is terrifying. Big wave surfing isn't mentioned enough when talking about which is the most extreme sport. Wipeouts are common and always brutal. These guys are truly built different. Ive had wipeouts on tiny waves that tricked me into thinking I was gonna die, but this is next level
I love when people share these stories. It's important for the people entering the sport to know that even the best can make mistakes. Glad you made it out.
Thanks!
Dude, you're lucky to be alive and not broken in half. So glad you made it out to ride again. Mother Ocean doesn't mess around when you're in her playground!
Truth! Very happy to not be in half :)
@@IanWalsh I gotta know--did you get your board back?!
Ya think...?
Yes you right he is lucky cause this kind of waves 🌊 you should take it seriously 🤣🤣 it's so bad ass
Ah nvm 6:07-6:25/6ish?
Note to self stay away from the 10th dimension. Heavy brah ✊🏽
Going to put that on the dashboard of my truck haha!
@@IanWalsh no thats ego, eat some mushrooms and check that dashboard ha ha, you'll love it
No doubt, I thought there was only seven. That’s crazy shit. Ten.
Whoa! This video is scarier than a horror movie. Dude has bigger and more solid balls than a public bowling alley. I'm glad you're here to tell your tale. Safe surfing!
🎳 😂🎳
I know this feeling like it happened yesterday. I was out with my crew surfing during a typhoon. Waves were 6-12ft. And we’re very thick. Same exact thing, it peaked while I dropped in, went too vertical and lost my board. I was pounded from the lip to the corals beneath me head first. I remember seeing the boneyard like it was low tide. That’s how powerful the waves were at the time. That was the worst beating I ever had in my life. I had double vision for hours and a concussion. Swollen jaw, swollen eyes, bleeding from the mouth, and the entire left side of my body was cut deep from my ears, shoulder, hand and wrist, hip, knee, thigh, ankles and shin. I made peace with my creator that day and promised to be a good person if I was given a second chance. I’m lucky to be alive. I’m glad he made it through as well.
Glad you're okay!
you keepin that promise to the big guy?
Promising to be a good person isn't enough. You need to give your life to Christ. Only He can make you a better person. I sincerely hope you take that seriously!✝️
You can’t be good enough. It’s not by works but by accepting the One who Was and Is good enough. Jesus took our sin and crucified it on the cross. If we trust and belive in Him and allow Him to transform us we will receive salvation. It’s actually a lot easier than ‘being good’, it’s about being forgiven and knowing we are His. ❤️ Praying for a revelation for this for you. It’s actually a beautiful thing to realise we are not in control and our creator, God is 😍
@@dannyfaith4689 fuck off, quit proselytising in the KZhead comments you weirdos…
I believe the ability to control your breathing and physical response to such an INTENSE beating should be considered a super power!!! Incredible. WOW!!!!
Some of those moments of quick reactionary thinking are some of the best parts about pushing yourself.
@@IanWalsh Well said. And a great encouragement! Thank you.
@@IanWalsh I JUST CAN'T GET THE BREATHING RIGHT. Oy.
@@IanWalsh I will get there. :-)
Staying calm in situations like that is gradually a learned response. U learn that hitting the panic button is thee worst thing you can do. It's hard to explain the process. But man it isn't easy but Mandatory if you like surf in weentuh time lol
Man those guys on the skis are highly skilled professionals
I feel the safety drivers have more knowledge of the waves then the waves do
SO MUCH RESPECT to those rescue guys!!!
My introduction into raw nature was by a 3ft wave😭 I can’t imagine being in a wave even similar to that. The highest I got caught in was by a 10 ft. Your body being torqued in every way possible in what seems to be an eternity is all too scary. Being in the tumble almost feels as if nature had it’s own way of releasing its anger, and it’s own pride was in full display in a sense. All you can ever do is submit it’s full terrifying glory
Your connection with the ocean and it’s fierceness would teach you so much in life. I love when you say I’ve made my bed so I have to accept this beating from the wave! I learn so many life lessons surfing love it. Much love brother your a legend
I like this style of video...when you do commentary over ur surfing it’s really interesting as a fellow surfer and its useful to know what’s happening and what ur thinking when this stuff goes down.
Thanks Dylan! I definitely want to do more vids like this with the details surrounding certain situations. I appreciate the note!
@@IanWalsh thank you!!
I am homosensual and I want to surf the web
I have been tumbled many times over the yrs. I been surfing. Not a big wave rider but did surf the North Shore and remember being so disoriented I wasn’t sure which way was up to get air. People who ride these waves are a different breed of animal in my opinion. Thanks for the cool video🤙
Dude....that is a major, *major* ass whoopin. When he slipped into that third wave, I audibly said “you’ve gotta be kidding me”.
⚡️⚡️⚡️
He is very articulate. This is so interesting to hear about, and it is nice to hear it described by someone with such good ability to turn his memories of physical experiences into organized thought (not a simple thing to do) and then recount it so clearly. I'd have just screamed a lot.
I've never surfed in my life but the way this guy tells stories is absolutely enthralling. I was on the edge of my seat the whole time, well done sir!
"When the lip hit me, it felt like a building was falling on me." Yeah, being slammed by a wave HURTS. It's even more scary when you get suffocated by the water when you don't time your breath right and you're underneath the water being dragged by the wave while trying to catch your breath.
🙌🏼🙌🏼
and dont know which way is up
It's like being waterboarded by Nature instead of the CIA.
I’ve been tossed around by small waves, I can’t even imagine what that would feel like.....
🌊🌊
Absolutely terrifying and it just kept coming and coming. I can't believe you stayed that level headed throughout this ordeal. Amazing.
I've never surfed anything near that big but I have been caught in some pretty gnarly impact zones before. I can relate to his dilemma of trying to recover from one beating, out of breath, blurry vision and then getting pounded by the next wave before getting a full breath again. Then the next wave. Then the next wave. Each wave that passes over you and beats more air out of you makes the next one even more severe. You think it's never going to end.....then it does. I can still remember recovering my board and letting the water just take me ashore, collapsing on the sand and thinking, "That sucked." But then you know what happens next. A few minutes later you get up, grab your board and do that shit again.
That's how you obtain experience and get better.
Holy Shit! 6:09 the shadow of the THIRD WAVE approaching on the left side of the screen....😲
Ian and his family were our neighbors for a few years...I remember for my 40th I wanted an autographed Ian Walsh t shirt ...I got it... he was 12....still have it...we all knew he’d be one of the greats...
🥰
That's a darn cute story tom, beautiful.
That's awesome, Tom!!!
Ian, you're paid in full brah. Riders on the storm. our memories of sliding successfully on so many time-space gravity grids in this life is a rare gift that some of us know but can never fully share with those who haven't paid the price of admission. We're so lucky to have our surf experiences in this the planet of our ocean Colosseums.
So glad that you made it out of that horror show and tell us about it!! I cant even imagine what it feels like with the crashing waves hitting you and slamming against you, knocking the life sustaining breath out of you - over and over! The conditioning that surfers require is amazing - the average person should never try this without years of practice!! Thank you for giving this first hand description as I watched in agony, holding my breath every time!
Awesome description, it's amazing how much you're processing in a moment like that. Makes it brutally clear how important it is to have proper experience and training to chase a wave like that.
Absolutely! Those details and decisions need to come extremely quickly.
@@IanWalsh they come automatically, sub conscious mind, what you had was an expansion of consciousness without eating mushrooms or drinking ayahuasca. None of you blokes would be out there without the skis hey, surfing is weird, its beautiful but ego is so disgusting and surfing drowning in it and removing the beauty and spoiling the experience, which is a spiritual one. Its worth learning about mind, deepak chopra and the dalai lama are awesome on mind. Plus wim hoff, and his lessons involve drinking beer at night and partying ha ha, and saying to ppl breathe mf as they pass out from his breathing exercises.
I just want to say thank you Ian Walsh for sharing your story. Contributing to surfing culture, you might say. Contributing to surfing instruction, maybe is more accurate phrase.
And obviously equipment. Air vest and jet skis
@@Honestly__now i don't have these equipments. i have 2 things. Board and wetsuit. LOL.
Watching this wave build up and suck out the water has to be one of the most scary things I have ever seen
I'm a bodyboarder and seen 10 to 12'ish waves max, but even then when you see these waves curling still, or on stormy days when it's one white wash after another. Can only imagine waves like this, makes my heart race watching.
💛💛
I watched a competition in 2005 at Mavericks. That is a Scarry wave. Standing on the beach. You could feel the sand vibrating under your feet. As those 45 footers rolled in and crashed. Big respect to you guys.
It's really nice to share this kind of experience. As for a beginner, the falling is much more frequent and the experience is super insightful!
Im no surfer, but I Love how you worded this together. I'm glad you're ok.
💛💛
You should consider surfing if you have a bit of money, time and have oceans near you. Its really fun!
Thanks, Ian, this is such an important experience to share. Knowing how to manage and respect risks every day is a major part of the craft I'm sure.
Wow. This was what I was wanting to see for ages. It's by far the best description of what it is like to be at a place like Jaws ever!!! THANK YOU IAN!! And so happy you didn't get hurt!!!
In awe of the magnitude of that wave, it's like it's out of special effects in some science fiction movie.
Bruh... I'm not a surfer but I'm a rabid fan and spectator of the greatest sport on Earth. My father grew up in Pacifica, right up the road from Mavs. I've spent countless hours sitting at Pillar Point watching. Incredible. What a cool video. Stay safe brother and thank you all for sharing truly spectacular moments with the rest of us.
Go get pitted bro!
I’ve never surfed in my life but this interview was amazing, can’t believe you came out of that and your thought processes were insane in such a crazy situation 🙌
What a fantastic synopsis of exactly what goes on during a big wave beat down. Incredible.
Really gives you a huge perspective on the oceans power. As someone who primarily rides on logs u don't really come across waves like these. Absolutely incredible
not to brag or anything, but here in florida, we have constant 2-3 foot waves
and pup nibbles
🤙🏽😂
Been surfing half moon bay Pacifica for a good chunk of my life. The cold heavy water combined with the back to back waves in a set is brutal. I have gotten close to drowning out there a few times and I am not surfing mavericks,. But a beating like that at Mavericks when it is up.... That is just next level. Glad you made it out OK.
I had an operation that requires drilling through the skull behind the ear to remove a large cholesteatoma ... I am completely deaf in one ear now and have that vision problem from even a 5 foot wipeout. Its your equilibrium being drastically altered by pressure in your ears, plus of course the violent shaking, thrashing and spinning causing dizziness. Sometimes I can't even lay on my board without tipping afterwards .... This size wave, with that power and that lip must be truly horrifying. Just mad respect for Ian and all these elite watermen. Every incredible ride is your reward for such bravery and commitment.
Amazing, " Brown building " " 10 dimention underwater" . Alohaa fron Rio de Janeiro
Wow, so glad you made it out! I’ll never forget the one time I got sucked out at Newport just swimming, and barely made it out. The scariest moment of my life by far. The ocean is powerful.
Not only an fabulous accounting…but a teaching. You’re descriptive put me there. I’ve hit third reef cottons without JetSki assist. So disoriented I swim to the bottom and by the time I got to the top had another one right in my face… Thankyou for your honesty. Always respect the Oceans
Woe! Very descriptive.Cant even imagine being in a situation like that.Not to mention how chilly the water is ...and seeing that giant wall of water coming at you...then going over the ledge.
That was insane. Thanks for walking us through it. What an exciting and terrifying 8 minutes
You tell this story with such detail and in a very gripping style. Much appreciated!
Wild Tale.... Thankful you made it out to tell the World how real Ocean action can be. Grateful you are okay and for the jetski fellas showing up to assist ya'll surfers out of the gnarly impact zone! Mind blown, ride on mate!
Such an awesome surfing story - that’ll last the rest of your life. And so we’ll documented! His breakdown is literally what that “time stands still” moment feels like! I think many of us have had one. Surfers are weird. Your personal experience and state of physical conditioning saved your life!
getting hit by waves 3 times smaller than that feel like a car crashing into you, I can only imagine the brutality
That one left a mark 💛
This is the best description of anything ever. I can literally feel it myself.
Thank God 🙏 that you are still here bro, Much luv, respect , and good vibes go out to U from a 1 year experienced surfer in Rosarito beach Baja Mexico🤘🏼😎✌🏼
Super scary . Glad you’re ok. 💙
❤️
👍
It's so amazing how powerful waves are. I feel that is one of the attractions of surfing. Just raw mother nature. I was rolled by a 3' wave and had a hard time with it.
His presence of mind in what is pretty much a life or death situation is incredible. He's just so focussed! That must have been absolutely terrifying!
thanks for sharing. i love watching, but this was insane!! glad you made it thru!!
He told that story so well. Felt like I was there. I caught myself literally freakin holding my breath like I was in it myself.
I was trying to hold my breath too hahah! What experience
Kinda scary. Having lost a good friend to the waves off the Atlantic coast of France, I'd love to see a video explaining how to handle it when you're caught up in turbulent water.
Relaxation and acceptance 1st and then experience and remaining calm and focused on what u need to do to surface for air. Start small waves then medium and do it for years before u ever try these. They will kill 9 out of 10 inexperienced people hands down
As I watched and listened to Ian tell the story my body went numb and cold and then starting to feel panic. Dude. Cara you wave. Glad you lived to surf another day.
A 5-7 second hold/beat-down in overhead beach break freaks me out. Ian and his ilk are super-human.
Much respect to the guys who will help you out in a pinch like that.
Very true!!
Thank you for sharing. I'm a water child myself and have bombed massive waves at the wedge in Newport Beach CA. I have been wrecked. I can't imagine what how you got through that. Your a champ and you killed it 👏
Wow!! That was a near dearh experience. Happy that you made it. Props for the jetskiers!!
Heavy heavy heavy, glad you're ok Ian. You're a goddamn legend brother.
Same! Appreciate the note!
The fact that your leash was still on your ankle is a miracle. Glad your alive! Wow
I'm so glad you're ok! That's an amazing recounting of a harrowing experience. Thanks for sharing! And big shout out to the rescue drivers! Well done 👍
you are blessed to be alive. I'm glad you shared this story. God Bless you!
One of the best story tellers in the world! Freaking champion!
Today (Mar 7th) would have been Mike Doyle's 80th birthday had he not been taken by ALS. I remember when I was a young grom and Doyle told me that getting pounded in really cold water was so much more terrifying than even the biggest closed out Waimea. RIP Mike Doyle, and thanks that Ian is still here after that horrible thrashing.
Some of the best athletes on the planet to be able to survive shit like that. Incredible.
That was a Nightmare at Mavericks! I bet I have rough dreams tonight with that description and visuals in my head!
What an amazing story. I have been wrestled down by a big pacific wave or two in Morro Bay but Mavericks, OMG. Thank God for the rescue guys and the inflatable vest. Planning, training + effort = good outcomes most of the time. Whew.
I've been held down by a tiny wave in Aruba's North shore while body boarding and didn't like that...pretty sure a wave like this would end me. Good looking out and keeping your head up.
His life vest saved him. Without it he’d have been held under and drowned.
Thiswavewillbreatyou in half bro stay away
Youmaybeluckywith fins if your really good
How can anyone dislike this? The video delivers what the title says and more
people are irrational and it doesn't matter anyway
That was a magnificent recollection of a BEATING from Mother Earth , his level of detail is mind boggling how he definitely kept his wits throughout the ordeal! Glad you made it man! Great vid
What a great description! We've all had waves beat the ever-loving crap out of us but that sounds 100 times worse than the worst beating I've ever had. Thank God he lived through it.
Damn Ian! That was so scary just to watch. Really glad you're okay.
Perfect description. Godbless vests Jet ski's and life..
This is total realness. More honest than truth itself. Yeah. Ernest Hemingway got lots of awards and prizes for his stories. But they were just stories. This man is genuine and mighty and beyond. Heroic. Hemingway wasn’t fit to light your cigar or pour you an old dark rum. God bless you and keep you sir
Beautiful narration. Ian's a very articulate surfer.
You have angels with you. Thats for sure.. What a story.
This reminds me of Shane Dorians re-telling of his wipeout at Mavs, bone chilling.
So intense.. I can't believe people actually do that. Mad respect!
What a vivid and detailed description of one of the most horrific sequences imaginable. I'm kind of shaken up after watching that.
I was caught by a medium sized wave when I was 15, all I can say is I felt like I was at the brink of death when I swimming my way to the top of the surface then all remember was catching some air while throwing up some salt water I swallowed, then I look infront of me and I see another bigger wave build up and the peak was abt to fall on me till a jet ski tried to save me but we both got wiped by the wave, then we got saved by another jet ski. And after that moment on I was scared of going into the deep ocean
How big?
@@mango_46 imagine 2 semi’s on top of each other, maybe even taller
@@crackcbainefl2675 why were u in those waves?
@@mango_46 i was surfing
You are lying
My hands are sweaty from watching this 😅🙏🏽
Crazy story, well brought, almost like you could experience it our selves as like reading a book.
I'm not even a surfer but was glued to your story. jesus!
Excellent description of the wave along with the sunset ! Glad you’re still with us!
Woah yeah my dad was telling me about this. Poor guy, that must have been horrifying!
🌊🌊🌊
I can't even imagine. I recently started going for open ocean swims but start from the beach and go through the waves. In the earlier days a couple kinda powerful 4-5 foot waves really knocked the confidence out of me initially. I had zero power and control and water is literally going in all directions and forcing it's way into my nasal cavity even, and my swimming strength meant nothing. It's where I realized that mother nature is strong as hell, death is a real possibility, and that I need to better prepare myself and not get cocky. I can't even imagine going up against something exponentially more powerful than that.
That was the best description of anything I’ve ever heard.
It is so interesting hearing him explain the entire course of events that led to that wipeout....There is so much more going on than many people realise....
The surfers are as brave as it gets but the jetski guys are another level again.