Bead roller modifications part 5 Sheet metal cover
2023 ж. 1 Жел.
15 388 Рет қаралды
closing in the Bead roller using simple tools and using simple ideas in metal work that I use almost every day
closing in the Bead roller using simple tools and using simple ideas in metal work that I use almost every day
Nice build so far. About the electronics: Since you only operate the bead roller for a few seconds a time and not constantly for hours, I don't think you need active cooling. But this is something that you just try and stick a thermometer in there. One suggestion for an extra-addon is light. We are all getting older and with more light, it becomes easier to see the markings and such. A cheap LED light with bendable gooseneck (or whatever this called now) would help a lot. You already have the 12V power supply for the LED built in.
Great thinking 🤔 sir
I would still put the cooling in it because I build way too many computers to believe that anything can stay cool on its own lol. Not to mention I live in Southeast Texas, so my shop gets hawt 😆. I think the fans are a good precaution, as you said, he already has the power for fans and an LED. The LED is brilliant btw.
Totally factory looking, that is the sleeper of bead rollers!! 👍
Tony. You da MAN !!! I do mobile paint work for Car Dealerships, One Dealer gave Me a bay to do bigger jobs, I'm starting to do rust repair on mainly nice older trucks. I've learned so much from You. I Salute You.
I always appreciate your explanations and here again you have pointed out some really useful tidbits. Hopefully I can remember them. The key ones were about building the cover and starting with a larger piece instead of trying to template it AND showing us all that mistakes are made but then can be fixed. You are helping us so much with all of your great information. Thank you for your dedication and passion!
29:29 - We all knew it would only be a matter of time before the new lift became a workbench 😀
Yay it great for that.. got to thinking about a open house and it be good for a buffet meal! Lol
It's nice to see you always taking so much pride in your work. It's definitely a lost art
Your friend who got that roller to you in the first place must be amazed by now, because I know I am. Wow.
Tony, that looks really great. I've learned so much watching you perform all of your various modifications I wish I was as skillful as you.
I would put some louvers in it, if you can or if you don't have any go to the wreaker's and grab a piece of metal with louver already cut into the metal and weld them into the panel where you need the fans installed. So far the Bead Roller is looking good, Tony. Cheers.
She's got more curves than a 50's Chevy , very nice !
Lifetime retired electronics tech here...Gonna buck some of the comments so far... Just use it a little and keep an eye on it. If you don't need cooling, don't put a fan in it. The dust won't help the electronics. If it gets just a little warm, put a fan in to circulate the air around inside. The metal case is a great heat sink. Heat is the biggest enemy of electronics, dirt is #2. It's gonna be 'fairly' clean in there if you don't suck in a bunch of dirty air. I'm actually going to build one of these, possibly this winter. I bought a 20 amp supply because of the larger heat sink and will mount it directly to the back cover so the heat will be transferred out of the box. I WILL use heat sink compound as well. Best of luck and Yet another great video. Michael in Colorado
Great tips thanks
As ever I learn so much watching you work. THE tip is to bend first then trace the outline as bends are always a tiny bit off causing bigger problems elsewhere.
I absolutely love your channel Fitzee. You are absolutely a fantastic instructor and exceptional good at what you do! I am through my impressed! Keep up your amazing work and videos sir!!
A customized bead roller for customized cars. Very nice. Have you ever seen or used a double ended drill bit? These are available in a few diameters and are great for sheet metal - shorter length reduces breakage.The flute length is also reduced and when one end dulls or chips, just flip it over and continue drilling. My Dad worked @ Fisher Body in Baltimore. He would bring some home an they were either 1/8" or #30., short length a d single ended with short flutes and relief sharpened which reduces wander. Drills and Cutters has has double ended bits sharpened with the relief point for $0.99 each
Hi Fitzee. I have a few suggestions, for what it is worth. most electronic components when they get hot it is when the air gets warm and there is no place for the warm/hot air to escape. Some stylish flute vents on the top at the highest point where warm air rises too and some flute vents at the bottom to draw cool air in should passively keep your electronics running within a good tolerance. If it is still running too warm you could add a fan later to draw out the warm air which would bring in cool air to keep it running spot on. Cheers :)
great job, I'll have to go buy a basic one and add all the mods now!
Nice job Fitzee. That bead roller looks great 👍. Take care
Great series, glad to see peanut approves.
I would use two 140mm Be Quiet, Non RGB high CFM Computer Fans. One for Intake, one for Exhaust. You want to bring in cool air and exhaust the hot air to keep things nice and cool.
Good work! If you choose to use a fan, have the fan pressurize the cavity and put an inlet screen on it.
Now Tony she is looking mint 👌 I think for the fan you should mount it on the rear with a small window but put 2 or 4 old school lurvers on the front so it looks like an old school hot rod. I think that'd be really slick.
Nice one Tony. You will be rolling beads before you know it!
Looking good Fitzee, maybe some hot rod louvers for the cooling vents.😊
You have black sheet metal screws on the way, but Amazon is a little slow to your area. You'll have to wait till the 16th. Thank you for your awesome videos!
Lol. Too cool. Thank you.
Just got ship notification, says the 21st now
@@ryanc3219 it's Christmas time. Shipping to us up here sucks. Lol. I learned to be patient with it
@@fitzeesfabrications I'm an hour outside Vancouver, I can sometimes get same day shipping. Spoiled I guess. But probably twice the cost to live here haha
Ah another Master piece from the Fitz Meister, fantastic creation Tony.😊
Bead roller looking great I like
Another well done project Tony. "Fixing the mistakes is what makes you good at this racket" - Fitzee
That cover looks factory made all right. It will keep the dust and dirt away from the electronics. I would put a small fan for the electronics inside on the bottom and some exit holes or louvers on the back. Nothing fancy just some ventilation is all. This way there is always some airflow even after you shut it down. Thanks for the tips !
I got a name for ur new roller Tony. "Croc and roll" from the side it looks like a croc 😊
Thanks again and again Mr. Tony
Getting a finished look.
Fitzee going to bring out his own line of bead rollers nicest toughest one on the market what you ghink guys i need one lol
A great job looks awsome
Bead roller looks real good😊😊😊😊
You're just awesome my friend.
Re: fan could design like a desktop computer . They use a small fan in the back and are readily available. I don't think you need more than that . Enjoyed the episode.
It looks great!
Simply amazing, wish I had room for tools like that, would make it possible to make panels rather then buy them. It would pay itself off in no time.
Hello from New Zealand again, Fitzee. Man, that unit is looking nothing like it used to and more like something you'd see in a catalogue of really expensive bead rollers. It's amazing what a bit of sheet metal will do to class a tool up, eh? In regards to what I mentioned last week about fans, I see you have some holes in the bottom of the rig right below where the winch motor sits. I presume some will be for power and the pedal, but not all? This will allow air flow into the area where heat will accumulate. What we need to do now, is use this to its best effectiveness and suck it through as much of the body as possible in order to keep the electrics cool and fire the warm air out Digressing slightly in order to make myself clearer, if you look at the back of a mid-sized computer box, the power supply has a fan that vents outward at the rear. As time has marched on, because of the increased heat generated by modern processors and the fact that often the cases themselves are smaller, first there were additional fans at the rear to pull air through the case and more recently, fans have been added to pull air into the case from the front as well. In earlier days, the power supply used to be mounted at the top to best handle (and aid) the thermodynamics of the internal parts of the computer and this was all that was needed to keep pulling fresh air through the machine. The fan in one of these old units is usually 4" (100mm) and about an inch (25mm) thick. This is all I think that is needed. What I was suggesting last week was to mount a 4" (100mm) 12v fan near the top of the end panel. The end panel I refer to is the one that was welded in near the beginning of this episode and is curved on the top and bottom. The end panel sits within cooee of the winch motor and the power supply unit. If a fan was mounted on the inside near the top of that end panel as far up toward the power supply as it can go, it would suck air through the bead roller unit from the holes in the bottom, pick up any heat generated by the motor and pull air across the power supply as it ejects it back out into the workshop. The controller would still get some cooling too because the removable inspection cover is not welded or sealed, so will allow air to be pulled in through the gaps in the panel by the fan. Modern computer case fans are much quieter and don't make near the same amount of cavitation noise as in the past. They are also (usually) quite cheap to buy....or you can harvest one from an old PC that's lying about and repurpose it. If you were here in New Zealand, I could give you about 30 of them in different sizes, thicknesses and speeds, but alas! If you could not fit a 4", then a smaller 2" - 3" old-style CPU fan would still work well and they are thinner too. Some of the smaller fans tend to produce a high-pitch whine, which is why I suggested the 4" because the only noise they make is the sound of shifting air. If the 4" fan was thermally controlled, then even better, but those ones get expensive. If your bead roller was only going to be used for a minute or so once every few hours and be turned off at the wall in between each task, I would say don't bother with a cooling fan. The heat generated by the internals would not amount to a lot and the sheet metal will act as one large heat sink and deal with it. However, this is hardly ever the case when needing the services of a bead roller and with it running for more than 5 minutes, things will get warm. The biggest killer of electronics - especially power supplies - is heat.....and for a few dollars and about 15-20 mins of time, it's a good precaution to protect your investment and save on the hassle factor. One last - there are magnetic dust filters / mesh filters available now for PC cases and I think a couple would do well on your bead roller. These sit near flush over vent holes or external fans on metal cases and will filter most dust particles. Cleaning is a breeze in that you only need to pull them off the case and wipe them. One alternative I have seen used is a few strip magnets holding a cut-up pair of women's tights over the vent / fan holes.....but I'm not suggesting that as I think the other idea would look much better and certainly more professional! All the best - and I hope these tips are good!
Great tips. Thanks. Think I'm going just leave it be for Noland keep an eye on it. Have alotof time tied up in this and that is a project for later.
Cool fun series. I like these videos!
Amazing it looks great nice job on making it thumbs up 👍
A lot to learn here. Great content!
If you put your air flow in from the bottom you will have slightly less dust problems. Intake on bottom. Exhaust on upper side or back. With filters on both intake and exhaust so dust cannot get in when fan is not running.
It’s looking good 👍🏽
Beautiful! Thank you.
Looking really good.
Great job tony its looking more professional with every modification
Looks great fitzee
Thanks for sharing with us.
Brilliant 👌
Great work always learn a new idea watching your working methods
Peanut says Louvres! Blair agrees 😸
Fantastic job! Im a welder/fabricator by trade and i must say that your technique with sheet metal has helped me and will help me in the future. Im about to start metal work on a 66 gto this winter and will be using things ive picked up from you. I build flat bed semi trucks and mount large cranes on them, Mostly for the concrete precast or foundation industries. So the sheet metal fabrication is going to be fairly new to me. Im usually welding 3/16 to 5/8 steel.
you can use a couple computer fans they are cheap and take very little room and i would put it on the back end blowing across the board for max cooling.
A quick trip to your local computer store should find a suitable fan. I'd suggest a larger one on the side, because it;ll be able to run more slowly, hence quieter. There will need to be an outlet, (on the top to take advantage of convection. Have the fan suck through a filter, (perhaps from an a/c panel), so that clean air will keep the pressurei nside above atmospheric. In a shop with metal particles in the air,you don't want them sucked into electronics. (Older PCs whose power supply fans blew outwards rapidly acquired a disgusting coat of debris inside, even in an office.)
Tony - As to fans or not I have a different reasoned opinion than most others. I left a comment on the last one saying I was skeptical of the power supply to handle the load if a roll binds up or is tough. Overloading electronics will fry them in a matter of a fraction of a second, maybe 1 or 2 seconds. So you're not helping much by adding a fan (which helps on a scale of, say, 20 seconds to several minutes, more of an average heat build up kind of thing). Since your beadrolling duty cycle is at best like, 10% on a 10-minute scale, you're not worried about average heat build up. In that respect, the case doesn't need any cooling at all, it's metal not plastic or wood so that's good enough. Keep it sealed. The device itself might benefit from some fan cooling just so that the air against the components isn't "sticky" with hot air, but put the fan right on it. Even a tiny 1" fan is going to dissipate 10x as much heat as that power supply will ever make, so any non-zero amount of airflow is functionally equivalent. You can probably find a 3" 12v computer case fan easiest, so might as well go with that. Basically my answer is "any" airflow. If you find this to be wrong, cut a hole in the case later and then deal with a t-shirt scrap over the fan as an air filter, and a place to egress air. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.
Great points. Thanks
All I have to say is, it looks beautiful. I would love to see some louvers to vent the electric parts.
Part 5 is excellent. It turned out great. A few more minor tweaking A safety bar to protect you and some paint and it will be ready for work
I think it's awesome, you should be able to bead 10 guage in in now, you've created a monster Tony and I love it
Thanks!
Good tutorial......
A couple of thoughts. The direction switch, the lower one on the slanted part. It should be turned 90 degrees. That way, forward moves the metal in the roller forward, and vise versa. Yeah, it would mean patching the hole and making a new one. A bit late, yeah. :( As for the fan, in one end and out the other should work. But with all the metal filings and stuff floating around (look on top of the compressor! :) ) you absolutely need a filter. A replaceable, or at least, cleanable filter. A filter from a lawnmower engine _might_ pass enough air, depending on the fan. Computer fans run at 12VDC, I can't remember what the power supply for the electronics you have deliver, though a computer fan might have trouble with a small filter.
Nice!!!
I would set up your fan(s) like a computer. The fans act as an exhaust pulling cool air in and across your electronics then pushing the hot air out of the case.
Motor heat. Hot air rises so put 1 or 2 holes in the base and a smart Louvre or two at the top and let the motor simply breathe. The hotter it gets the more the air will move IF it gets hot.
More great tips
As far as the fan topic, And I thought about this when you first showed the power supply, You never mentioned the power supply current rating. Looks like it may be a 10A. When you use this and run some metal through it... I have to wonder what the current will be on the winch. You probably will be fine with no fan. The winch will never see the strain it was designed for so its likely pretty low current. Considering, Duty Cycle... you should pull the cover, run some metal through it. Run it for...... IDK 10 minutes would be enough. Check the power supply and speed controller heat, if its HOT? I would mount a small brushless fan on the bottom of you cover facing the floor and vent opening on the bottom as well. Only if the heat becomes a factor. Otherwise. We say KISS, "Keep It Simple Stupid" I would call it a wrap and paint it and be done. Great job! Hind sight is always 20/20, there was a couple of things you could have done differently I'm sure you would agree. I think it was a awesome job. I would be happy with it as my own.
This simple bead roller upgrade has turned into a bigger project than thought. Just like a car project 😂 Going to be nicest bead roller on KZhead. A new project for you to build and sell! When can I place my order?
Hahaha. As if I don't have enough to do now. Lol
Fitzee, your forgot one thing. Where are you going to put the "Cup Holder" for your coffee? 😂
Nice job love the project.. Just wondering if you might have mine ready before the first of the year? 😂
I just hope you put an eye on it so it looks like a head lol.
For the vents in the cover can you show us how to do the old hot rod louvers? I'm not sure I've seen that on any of your videos. Thanks Tony for all your work and teaching.
To be honest, I'm not a lover of louvers. Mostly because I painted them on rigs in the past and found them to be a real pain. They look cool but when I see them I remember nightmares from days gone by. Lol.
@@fitzeesfabrications I can understand that. And thank you for the honesty that's probably how a lot of guys felt and the reason they went out of style.
make a table for it. make a good video nice job
Stick around! Lol
Great build, curious what it's gonna weigh?
Hey Tony, great job as usual! I love the automation to the bead roller. Need your help my mig gun looks similar to yours it's an everlast mig /tig /stick combo. I can't seem to remove the nozzle. I tried twisting and pulling but can't get it off.
They are either a push on or they unscrew. There two different push on. One is much harder to get off has a wire to slide over.
That bead roller doesn't look anything like it did when you got it. You'd never know it was the same thing. Once it''s all finished with all the modifications, it would be interesting to run some footage of it before the modifications and again afterwards to show the differences.
the fan should be underneath, it doesnt need to blow on the electronics directly, just needs to remove hot air....
Definitely making it look awesome. Kinda looks like a dinosaur head. Do you airbrush. 😊
Nope! Lol
EXELENTE THANKS
WOWZA!!!
Use a computer fan & mount it so it pulls the heat out the back. That should also pull the shop dust/grinding particles out as well.
Hi Tony, thank you for sharing. I just fixed my brother's truck and I used many tips you gave us over the years. I did some backstage painting and I can't find the video in which you explained how to correct that. Let me know if you remember. Thanks.
Backstage painting? Explain..
When we put to much paint ''painting slide''. In French we said ''coulisse de peinture''.@@fitzeesfabrications
Another nice tool modification video but are you planning any work on cars in the near future? As for the fan use it and if it gets hot then put a fan in. You say simple tools so don't over complicate it. Price of parts and labour can add up to a cheap tool becoming an expensive one.
Thanks Tony, it looks great. What colour will you paint it? 👍💪✌
Haven't decided yet
Looking really good...reminds me of the metalworking tools my shop classes in school had..they were all leftovers from the forties, and built with more style in 'em than the current year (late seventies) cars had..squirt it industrial green, bet it causes guys of a certain age to have flashbacks, lol. Sweet work, thanks for sharing. Hey, I've got a "Question of the week" for ya. I know you use straight CO2 to weld, and after the sticker shock of my last refill of Argon/CO2 mix, I'm considering switching over to the cheaper all CO2 as well. Could ya maybe talk about the differences between the two, and what adjustments need to be made? Thanks!
Main difference is splatter. The co2 will have splatter. Where everything is being grind it don't matter. Not I use co2 for everything and on my chassis work I have to wire wheel the welds to clean off any slage that there. It's not that bad but noticeable
@@fitzeesfabrications You probably noticed a lot more spatter with the flux core wire in your other welder. If it's too much of a problem, you can use anti-spatter, but I've never used anti-spatter, I just clean up after welding.
👍
I'd like to see the fan on the back ledge so it doesn't break up your tin work in the front
Check your controls, looks like your footswitch is in the DC motor lead. It may burn the contacts.
Fitzee get yourself a couple of computer fans 120 mm easy to wire to the power button cost you maybe 15-20 bucks or something from a broken computer (Rear Exhaust on computers are 120mm) They last a long time in computers and other applications. Best of all they are cheap...lol
This was a sheet metal fabricating class!
Truss or pan head screws would be much cleaner look 😉👍
I was beginning to think I was the only one still using magnets but I would be getting out my rivet nuts.
Can you put the fan louvers on the top and bottom with the fan motor inside?
Luvers
what kind of glasses do you use
Mint
Is the SSimder machine a new addition to the arsenal?
Yes did a video on my other channel using it. FITZEES FAB THE FLIP SIDE
Curious, why remove the coating on the cover when you're going to paint. Couldn't you just paint over?
Reallyidodnt have to it just what I did. Might of been better left alone
You need to paint it so it looks like a Tyrannosaurus Rex!!!
......nope!! Lol
You should name it Rover the Roller!
Why?
Holy roller lol, gotta look presentable for church
It's a work of art! It reminds me of a canine.@@chrisallen2005