Extreme Rust Hole Repair w/ Homemade Patch Panel - Part 2 / End
Part 2 of a very large rust hole repair focusing on knocking down the seam, sanding body filler and priming. Tools, materials and more below:
🔥 Sander/Buffer - www.harborfreight.com/power-t...
🔥 40 Grit Fiber Resin Disc for Sander - benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
-25-pac#
🔥 Body Hammer - Martin Sprocket & Gear Tools MRT158G General Purpose Pick Hammer
🔥 5" Sander - ASTRO PNEUMATIC 222S 5" HIGH SPEED SANDER or similar
🔥 Die Grinder - Mac Tools
🔥 Die Grinder Disc - 3 in. x 1/16 in. x 3/8 in. Metal Cut-off Wheel
🔥 Filler - Evercoat 156 Light Weight Body Filler - Gallon
🔥 Metal Spreader - Coster Steel Auto Body Spreaders, 3 Steel Spreaders - 4"
🔥 Cheese Grater Blade - Stanley Surform 1/2 Round - 21-299
🔥 Bondo Hog w/ 40 grit - National Detroit 900 8-Inch Bondo Hog Sander
🔥 5" Rubber Sanding Block - WARRIOR 4-7/8 in. Soft Rubber Sanding Block from Harbor Freight
🔥 Air File w/ 40 grit - Viking V100
🔥 Medium Board 9-10" - Keysco Tools 77526 Hand Sanding Block
🔥 Yellow Masking Tape - 3M Automotive Refinishing Masking Tape
🔥 DA w/ 120 grit - National Detroit (older model w/ 5" pad)
🔥 DA Palm Sander w/240 - www.amazon.com/Random-Orbital...
🔥 Primer Gun - Binks 2001 w/ 1.8mm tip ~ 25 psi
🔥 Primer - Autobody Master lacquer primer surfacer w/ ABM lacquer thinner
🔥 Lakeside Merch & Apparel - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
🔥 Lakeside Discord (Upload Your Project Pics) - / discord
🔥 Lakeside Autobody - / @lakesideautobody
Jerry at it again with his great videos. I cannot emphasize. This again I been doing bodywork for 23 years on and off . I got rid of the way I did it and replaced it with Jerry’s body work . Made me fast. And fast ladies and gentlemen means money then more bbq and beer
And his way lasts for ages. Definitely good stuff
@@jonathanyates5198 yeah he’s good guy humble man . He has skills best AUTOBODY videos on KZhead and I seen them all . Lol literally. 😳
@Vw beetle Autobody & Paint , yep! I've literally watched 100's of hours of his work. He's a great 'instructor' who does incredible work! He has a very humble approach and is very easy to watch and learn from
@@dwreed63 when I first saw him . I was like bam 💥 he’s a natural teacher. Made me better
Great job Jerry this is why I watch your video my friend You are the best on KZhead doing and teaching bodywork
💯👍
Nice job,better than new ,appreciate your videos learning more and more from of it..God Bless 🙏🇺🇸👍👍👍
Thanks and thanks for watching. God Bless you too 👍😊✌
Nice to watch, without breathing all the dust!
Can you smell the body filler? Sometimes, I think I smell it watching the video back 🤔
Thanks again Jerry. Your practical, professional workmanship is very much appreciated.
I can’t say it enough Jerry I feel like I’m in class learning auto body work from the best teacher!
Thanks my friend - I appreciate the kind words. Always feel free to ask any ?s easy or hard. It's the easy ones that are sometimes the most difficult :)
Really nice workmanship, Jerry.
Thanks Michael - have a good weekend :)
Lots of work for sure. Have a good weekend Jerry!
Amazing work as always !!! I could watch your process for hours. Looking good. Looking FWD to seeing the rest of the truck done !!
Thanks PSG - have a good weekend 👍🛠☺
@@LakesideAutobody You too my friend !
Awesome job Jerry as usual, your videos are always nice to watch!
Thanks UPK - nice to hear from you as always :)
Thanks for all the specifics like the sandpaper grit. It's informative to see that it takes multiple coats to get the finish right.
It's rare to get the filler straight in one shot on large dents and rust repairs. A couple times should get you close and the third is just filling in pits, minor low spots or other imperfections :)
I have always been impressed with the artesian skills of a body man. I am not skilled for sure but I enjoy your work. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Ellis - thanks for the support :)
Always enjoy watching your techniques
Always enjoy your videos! Thanks Jerry
You're welcome William - thanks for watching my friend :)
This is truly a great video and give me the full confidence to do the work myself
Another job well done Bud!! Large multi-curved panels are always a pain in the balls, we just gotta deal with them!!☻
Great job teaching a very practical, efficient and long-lasting method for repairing a very common rust issue! With that mileage, that truck is still in its adolescent years; capable of many more miles!
Thanks Icar - nice to hear from you my friend - hope all is well :)
An excellent thorough repair as expected by a master craftsman. Well done jerry.
Thanks SS - have a great week :)
Thanks for the rust repair videos! Love learning different ways to repair rusted out parts! I have a geo tracker I'm fixing when i have time and they we rolling rust buckets! But its been a fun challenge to work on! I had to make cab mounts in the middle and bought the front ones from Japan. Thanks again and well done!
I hear those GEO vehicles were pretty good. Have fun fixing it up Frank :)
I have learned so much from your videos. Stay safe and vigilant.
Glad to hear it RN - have a good weekend :)
Great video. You do some amazing work. Keep up the great work and have a great weekend
You too Brad - thanks for watching :)
A true artisan, thanks for these videos!
You're welcome Phil :)
Good job buddy
Thanks Sergio :)
Amazing work through this whole thing. Would never know have of that bed panel was rotted away and then cut out. Welding and body work is on my bucket lists to want to do for my vehicle.
Feel free to ask ?s as you go - I get to them 1-2 times a day. Give it a try :)
Awesome video! Appreciate your time and talent.
Thanks Bob - have a good weekend :)
Great job Jerry. That was a pretty complicated panel with a lot of different surfaces.
Thanks Paul - have a great weekend. I did have some curves and needs a good blocking! Another video though :)
Great job
Brilliant video jerry really informative🤘
Glad you enjoyed it James - thanks for watching 🛠😊
The Calcium Chloride brine spray that is used in PA really eats the paint right off the metal of vehicles. Also, it just destroys clear coated aluminum wheels. The real kiss of death for a vehicle, is to keep a salted vehicle in a heated garage in the winter. Heat activates the corrosion process. Nice work - expert!!!!
Thanks Bruce - winter in the salt belt is hard on cars for sure - a real bummer :)
You’re an artist
Thanks V - enjoy the weekend :)
Just keeping those body lines correct is a big challenge in itself. You make it look effortless. My guess is practice makes perfect. Have a good one Jerry.
Thanks Mike. I used to struggle big time when I first started doing heavy collision work and rust jobs like this. Feather fill really helped me out. Along with the cheese grater, using tape on the body lines, always using super sharp sand paper, the bondo hog and really making sure high spots were tapped down before applying the filler. Thanks for the kind words Mike :)
as always, great video sir
Thanks for always checking in Yea Yea - have a great weekend :)
Hello from Scotland Jerry . I really like your videos and work , especially about not having to grind the Welds right down , a mistake I have made in the past . I'm a Plumber by Trade and fairly new to Mig Welding . Using the " Cheese Grater " blade is another fantastic idea . I had to get the Welder out again after not putting my Trolley Jack under the Jacking point , but under the Sill by mistake , it made a large hole ! 🥺, Well the next time I will remember to wear my Glasses , all the best ! 🤗
All the best to you too Alan - glad you like the channel. Scotland sounds like a nice place :) Thanks for watching and feel free to ask any questions 👍🛠✌
Great videos! Very helpful for the diy'ers!
Thanks Jeff - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Looks good Jerry thanks!
Thanks Rod - have a good weekend :)
Awesome, thanks!
I like your work valuable lessons.
Thank you 😊
Impressive work! Many people would have just sent this kind of truck to the chrusher. You saved it 👍
I appreciate you checking it out - have a good weekend C69 :)
Great job, those areas can be really tricky, then you have the gas cap door in the way.
Thanks Tim - you're right - it can be frustrating at times. Thanks for watching and the support :)
That's just amazing!
Thanks SGS - always good to hear from you my friend :)
i gotta do this on a 57 chevy belair i just bought. fenders are rusted out on the bottom as well as holes in the lower part of two doors. i do collision work as my career but metal fabricating like this will be something new for me. (my first classic car)
Have fun restoring it Robert :)
It's a joy to watch a someone with your skills,especially after I spent my weekend messing about on the drive trying to sort out a rusty sill on my van. I did it in the end but its far from pretty and neither was my language.
Working on cars does make you swear every now and then for sure :)
That was very good, thank you.
You're welcome Bob - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Well done 👍
Thanks for the visit HKR - have a good weekend :)
Good job
Thanks - enjoy the rest of the week 😊
Worth watching a couple times. I use an Astro mini belt sander with a 3/8” wide belt and 3M Cubitron belts and I can grind welds fast without touching* the parent metal.
I like Astro stuff. I'll bet those Cubitron belts are sharp as heck when new 🔥
@@LakesideAutobody I started doing autobody work in the 70’s and Astro was considered junk next to IR and Viking. I think it’s always been pretty good and I still have an old Astro Binks #7 knockoff that sprays better than just about anything out there...but you really need a booth for that beast. Yeah, the Cubitron is crazy good. I always have a spare box and I used my last box and my spare box disappeared. I think I ground 5 feet of stitch weld by the time the new box came and the old belt was still cutting.
@@jeffreylonigro1382 That's funny about the Astro Binks - I had a Buffalo Pneumatic Devilbiss JGA copy that sprayed great - I a gave it to a friend of mine and wish I still had it. The thing was indestructible. Thanks for getting back to me about the Cubitron - good to know. Have a great week :)
Bless NICE 👍 video
Bless you too JP ✌
Can’t find these cheese grader files for the life of me
Stanley Surform replacement blades. You can find them at Home Depot or other hardware stores.
@@jasonpipkin1249 Stanley 21-299 - HD, Amazon, Ebay, etc.
Any lumber or hardware store should have them
Nice work Jerry could’ve done it better myself I’m going to get busy on a 2010 Ram rusty bucket soon, just got the parts for the rocker panel and cab corner s
Great job. But I couldn't help notice the other rust patch further along that wheel arch. Did you take care of that before you did the final paint job?
Good eye - I will. I have a patch panel ordered from millsupply.com that I will be doing a video on soon. Thanks for watching Angela - have a great weekend 😊
I've been doing auto body and paint for close to 35 years and still enjoy watching someone else do it. That brings up the question, are there any auto body YT channels that you watch?
Sometimes I check out SprayWayCustoms, Mike FN Garage, Underground Paint King, First Generation Garage, Autobody Training Solutions and some others. These are all really good people - really nice fellas. Most of the autobody channels respond to comments too. There's some really talented people doing all kinds of stuff on YT 🛠👍
very nice work, It would be helpful for us DIY guys to see the actual products you use. hey maybe they'll send you some free stuff for the advertising! so many products out there, hard to tell what is decent, yet still not super expensive. especially with the paint / primer.
All tools and materials are listed in the description :)
Jerry Jerry Jerry, another awesome video. Thank you. On the welds, I heard some people use kitty hair to cover the welds first, then bonds over that? Is it necessary if one was doing a show car. Have a great weekend!
Not necessary on a show car - it's rarely ever going to see rain or salt. Thanks for checking the video out GM and all you positive comments - appreciate it my friend :)
Very well done Jerry. Bench mark abrasives has three flavors of resin fiber discs. Which one do you prefer? Thank you for making a well produced video.
I've tried the blue and the red. They both seem the same to me so I go with the cheapest one - the red I think :) How's your car coming ?
Great video, as usual. In this case, what do you do with that pinstripe? It looks pretty close to the repair?
It will be removed and then re applied. This one was painted on by someone so I'll have to remove the whole thing / both sides and use the tape kind. My dad used to have the Beugler Pinstriping Tool (still make it) - worked real slick. Had a magnetic strip or tape you'd lay down and run it right along the guide - paint came out really smooth and even :)
Nice work! What about where the inner and outer fender meet do you use a seam sealer to prevent water and dirt to go between the body panels? Thanks!
I have found that drainage is the key so... I do this when the repair is done - kzhead.info/sun/a7yaiqaxbnl5ank/bejne.html
I would love to do a re-inspection video after this was finished to show how bad this is.
It will last years - there are many secrets that keep it from rusting. I'll do a follow up video in a few years. For now here's a truck with the same methods used 5 years later - kzhead.info/sun/p5WQk9CMlnmDqaM/bejne.html & another at around 3+ years - kzhead.info/sun/p5WQk9CMlnmDqaM/bejne.html
Enjoyed watching you work the metal. One question. What did you use to treat the metal on the inside of the patch panel to help prevent rust from forming and to ruin the wonderful work you preformed?
I have found this to work the best actually because it creeps into the pinch welds and stays greasy like an old valve cover that never rusts - kzhead.info/sun/a7yaiqaxbnl5ank/bejne.html See this too if you want - kzhead.info/sun/d9Wxfax7oKyhiH0/bejne.html
Amazing work as always, I have a question, why no one ever put down a 2k primer on bare metal before filling, I’d thought it would give more rust protection?
The truth is the only protection you need is the paint - that's it - paint protects everything under it. From the other side you need drainage and some method like in this video - kzhead.info/sun/a7yaiqaxbnl5ank/bejne.html or this - kzhead.info/sun/rJRulLKwq1-kiZs/bejne.html
Nice job Jerry! Are there any electric tools you recommend for sanding bondo?
I use an electric da from harbor freight to knock the excess off, but I would love to find something like an electric long board sander
Instead of using the buffer with the 36 grit to remove the welds I would start with a finger sander as this goes directly to the weld without removing steel from the areas around it. Astro makes nice ones. This tool is also the bomb for removing spot welds particularly on modern cars that use high strength steel or boron steel that defeats normal spot weld bits. After removing most of the weld you can then finish things off with the air grinder or the buffer. Just a suggestion.
Thanks SATAMAN - always good to hear from you my friend. I've known you for quite some time now - maybe almost 5 years. Have a great week :)
A big mistake rookies make is not using sharp and aggressive sand paper to rough in the straight lines and body lines. Always time to go back and skim coat to take out sand scratches. You will literally never get it straight without aggressive cutting to begin.
You're right - gotta cut through not ride over :)
@@LakesideAutobody Good way to explain it. 👍🏻
Thank you for the video. What size air compressor do you use?
5.4 scfm at 40 6.4 scfm at 90 it's a 110v old Craftsman 1hp 20 gallon tank, oil filled, belt driven type. Here's a video on it - kzhead.info/sun/aJemmaWHmYGaiZE/bejne.html
great work dudes smoke cigritts
Appreciate it - I will :)
Jerry what spray guns do you use when you prime and when you paint? I believe that I'm going to use paint from rural king to refinish my old dakota. I dont want to spend $500.00 a gallon to do it. any suggestions? Thanks, keep up the great videos
Yeah - you don't need to spend a ton of money on guns or paint. For guns - I've used everything from the cheapest to the most expensive and I like how they all sprayed (when clean!). Some I like better for primer some for paint - it's just something you decide along the way. You can get the cheap purple gun from HF and you'll love it. Heck you can get one for paint and one for primer - it sprays both very well. Here's video on that gun and cheap paint like you're talking about. kzhead.info/sun/n9uBdLGbe4mMrYk/bejne.html
Great video. I've done a few classic cars that are drivers,the owners want to nice paint job without paying for it. Some of the previous work done on cars have caused me to price the work out of their range because in some cases, there's more than 3 or 4 paint jobs done,one on top of the other. In your opinion,how many paint jobs stacked up is too much? Thanks for your reply.
Sorry about the late reply - missed the comment. Sorry again too as I'm not quite sure what your ? is. If you are doing cars for people and you do good work come up with a price that works for you like $20/hr or $100/panel etc. An example would be if you charged $100 per panel - that's 9 panels on a 2 door so the job would be 900 bucks. If you want to make more charge 200/panel. Post it in your garage and go up to it when folks ask and say here's the prices. It's very hard to charge people - I get it but if you don't, you'll be working too hard for too little. If you come up with a good plan let me know - might use it myself 😊✌
Do you worry at all about the pinholes in your welds (lets' face it, in stitch tack welding they're there) that are exposed on the backside of the panel especially in the wheel well areas that are going to get water/salt slung up on them? I smear mine on the backside with seam sealer. Any thoughts?
If you tap the seam down a bit, you'll have no problems - here's a great video on why - kzhead.info/sun/fa2Cn9KChoioomw/bejne.html The seam (lapped) is upside down on the inside of the panel and doesn't hold water - I do this to prevent future rust but your idea will work fine also - kzhead.info/sun/a7yaiqaxbnl5ank/bejne.html Here's a longevity video on many similar repairs - kzhead.info/sun/mq2MYbiarWmBqa8/bejne.html
1, need to mention if going to run a large disc, make sure you have a long finger trigger grinder to lessen chance of getting hurt, the side switch would be more dangerous. 2 for those with only a single speed grinder, you can throttle the trigger, "quickly push it on and release" to achieve a slower speed, practice and you can get slow speeds to high speeds, and will act like a variable speed, thats how we also used polishers before new fangled variable speed switches became available. I personally prefer an air 90 degree grinder with a 2" rolloc adapter, then use 3" 36 grit disc on it, to me i like the finesse of it over other methods, and i tried a lot over my life. but nothing is gospel, find what works for you, that you like,
Thanks for you suggestions and input Randy - good tips. Have a good weekend :)
Love it once again Jerry - thank you! Just curious, for a master like you - how long from start to finish did this take you? I know this would take me like two weeks minimum!
Each video took from about 10 am to 2 pm - parts one and two. So with out messing with the camera and stuff like that, right around 5-6 hours. Thanks for watching CA - always a pleasure hearing from you my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Unreal Jerry, that's nuts. I do some smaller type repairs for others once and awhile - can I ask what you would charge someone for doing a project like this?
@@CA-pv5ie I don't actually charge anything as I only make YT videos - retired now. I fix up clean title repairable vehicles (COPART) if I do a collision video - then sell them. Or in this case - a friends truck in between collision videos. He buys the parts and materials then I just work on it when ever I get time. Works out pretty well - no pressure. The cost of jobs like this vary greatly from shop to shop but generally rust repairs like this range from 500 on up. Rockers are like 500-1000+ per side. Materials are getting sort of expensive lately too so prices at shops have to be going up nowadays too. Nice talking to you and always good to hear from you CA :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks tons for taking the time to answer Jerry, all the best!!
@@CA-pv5ie You're welcome - all the best to you too - :)
Hi Jerry. Great video. It's almost as I've seen magic happening on this car. May i ask you, do you do it for business? If was to bring my car into your garage with the same amount of repair needed what would be ballpark estimate. If it can be discussed here. Thank you. Keep a great work.
I don't do it as a business. Matter of fact, I just ran into an issue with that and the township. The good thing is that all the vehicles I've done on this channel have been my own or favors for family and friends. No $ exchanged and therefore the guy who investigated had nothing - just a KZhead Channel 👍😊✌
Jerry my 2k Sandable DTM primer is pretty thick when mixed (part A and part B)…can I reduce this mixture to get a thinner consistency without degrading the primer?
Absolutely. If it's urethane you'll reduce it with urethane reducer. If it's polyester primer like feather fill you cut it with thinner or acetone.
Ok, ya talked me into it: I’m finally going to buy a mud hog. National Detroit seems to be the only real single action sander out there. Harbor Freight does have a 6 inch Baxter SA which from the reviews might work. Any suggestions anyone?
Yes - www.astrotools.com/product/8-gear-driven-random-orbital-sander-with-8-pad/ It'll work just fine :)
Hey Jerry I’m working on a 70 cutlass. I don’t want to have to purchase both rear quarter panels and outter wheel houses. They are pretty rotted and the wheel opening has a flared lip. Is that possible to recreate without buying all of that metal (about $700.00 usd) also the trim needs a place to screw to around the wheel opening
Absolutely. You can fix anything, any lip, any wheel opening using this method - reminds me of a 1970 Grand Prix that had the same issue. It had a cool factory color - some type of army green metallic. It can be done though just like part one of this video :)
How long do you wait/dont wait, to do the cheese grating?
Just before it gets hard enough to sand. You can still dig your nail into it but can't sand it yet 'cause it clogs the paper :)
@@LakesideAutobody it’s funny because I actually have the same cheese grater tool you have, that at one time I must have been smart enough to buy and attempt to use lol. A lot of my rust repairs these days have been a lot more quick and dirty and light sanding with raptor paint jobs on top. I just bought a 2500hd with the 3/4 ton frame so she’s actually worth trying to save the body. Do you recommend any particular underbody treatments/oil? I’m probably going to try and lay under this thing and save the frame and all the other hidden bits and bobs. My instinct is to just get under there and spray it with some paint.
You're more of a sculptor than a body man sometimes. LOL
I appreciate the kind words TW - have a great weekend :)
👍🏻 + 👍🏻 + 👍🏻 +👌🏻
what size wire are you using .025 or .030 for the welding?
I'm using .025" - .030" works well too though :)
Can you wet sand body filler that was put directly into bare metal? Will it rust over time? Thank you!
Are you talking about maybe if you are finish sanding (wet) and happen to sand through the primer and hit filler? There should never be a time when you purposely decide to wet sand filler. However, if you do for some reason, you'll be fine. It won't rust over time. By the time you blow it off with the air gun it will all evaporate or dry. You can absolutely get filler wet and not worry about the bar metal underneath - that's stuff that you hear in magazines, internet and blogs but won't hear in a body shop 👍💯😊
@@LakesideAutobody very helpful sir. Thank you.
What to do with the other rusthole above the wheel?
That, I bought a preformed patch panel for. I'll be doing a video soon on gluing that on - no welding :)
Wheel well lip area needed some work still
You're right 🥴 - needs some block sanding. It is a great example of a section that could benefit from polyester primer like feather fill - real thick for extra primer to work with when blocking :)
What gauge sheet metal are you using?
20 gauge (.035") You can use 22 gauge too (.030") for more workability :)
Man, you live in the Rust Belt, so do I, I live on Long Island that’s part of it ,,how do you even give her a guarantee on work like that you can’t. The people have to understand you’re just trying to save the truck for them because it has low mileage. What they really should be concentrating on, is saving the frame before it gets too bad and the brake lines and just stick a wooden flat bed with sides on the back. It’s a battle they’re never going to win, it blows.
It can be won with some work - see this video - kzhead.info/sun/rJRulLKwq1-kiZs/bejne.html Here's a follow up video on these types of repairs - they do last quite long if done right - kzhead.info/sun/mq2MYbiarWmBqa8/bejne.html Drainage is key - you want the panel to be able to drain and dry out inside - you can't stop it from getting wet inside of a panel but you can make sure it can drain and dry out :)
About how much does this cost to get done?
Body shops really don't do this anymore. You wont find one that will repair a panel this bad to be honest. They might replace the bed side for you but that's probably 2K more or less. Get an estimate or stop and see if a shop will take on work like this.
Why didn't you fix the other rust hole in the wheel well...........!
You mean in the back? That's another video - kzhead.info/sun/es-AhLttZIiKfaM/bejne.html
Good job but then you added another hour or 2 to the job for the over spray. There’s no way it’s no overspray on the door, window or back glass.
Thanks - here it is painted - kzhead.info/sun/qM-iXdeep6V7oKs/bejne.html Lacquer primer dries so fast it turns to dust before becoming a problem on nearby panels. It is good to cover those though just to be safe - old truck 😊
I thought before filler you needed to spray a sealer on bare metal. 🤷♂️
You can but absolutely not necessary - the paint seals everything underneath. See this video for more on that - kzhead.info/sun/qrqhgbCph3N9iY0/bejne.html
A gal of filler and half a gallon of primer later...................Doesn't anyone use glaze any more?
If the glaze uses a hardener it's the same animal as filler just more $. A boss wants to see a guy get it straight in one or two applications of filler - then send it to the painter. It better be straight too 👍🥴
I’m sorry but I can’t understand why anyone would not spend more time doing the metal work that way you wouldn’t need 120 pounds of body filler to me that’s a crappy way to do repairs I’m just saying it’s a-shame because you obviously have the skills to do it the right way
This actually is the right way (internet doesn't go into body shops). Here's a follow up on repairs like this. kzhead.info/sun/mq2MYbiarWmBqa8/bejne.html It's a fraction of the cost of replacing panels, lasts just as long (you can customize the drainage), you can fix anything - even cars with no parts available.
This video shows how cheap people are. This was an example of some shoddy work. Ya get what ya pay for. If people want cheap work keep it up.
There's 2 choices- buy a new vehicle or follow these methods - they will be the standard in the future - have been for 50 years - kzhead.info/sun/mq2MYbiarWmBqa8/bejne.html
thought this was a joke, but think he's serious, please do not copy any of what is shown here
No drama here - just help for those that love cars. We can fix anything - there is nothing that can't be fixed no matter how rusty or wrecked. kzhead.info/sun/mq2MYbiarWmBqa8/bejne.html