In this video, I discuss the safety of ripping wood on a radial arm saw and how it compares to a table saw. In my opinion, ripping on a radial arm saw is as safe, or safer than ripping on a table saw (as long as it’s done properly).
Blades:
Freud LU83:
www.freudtools.com/products/L...
Mr. Sawdust Book:
mrsawdust.com/master-the-radi...
Mr. Sawdust, Forrest, Woodworker I (TCG):
www.sliversmill.com/product_6...
How to Calibrate/Align your Radial Arm Saw:
• Radial Arm Saw Alignme...
How to Make a Push Board for your Radial Arm Saw:
• Push Board for Ripping...
Dust Collection for a Radial Arm Saw:
• Dust Control for Radia...
How to Make a Micro-Adjuster for your Radial Arm Saw:
• Micro-Adjuster for Rad...
Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 1):
• Radial Arm Saw: Tables...
Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2):
• Radial Arm Saw: Tables...
I recently acquired a 1967 Craftsman Radial Arm Saw from an older gentlemen. The previous owner good care of it and was more than happy to show me all the features including how to set it up and adjust it properly. He even printed out a copy of the owners manual as he couldn't find his original one, but if he did find it he'd give me a call. As I am building up my small shop I think the saw will be a great versatile piece of equipment. It's difficult to find well explained information out there. I'm very grateful I found your channel as your videos are super informative and helpful in teaching me how to safely operate this unique machine. Thank you!
Thanks! Even though you acquired a Craftsman, I highly encouraged you to join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. It’s a great resource for any questions about setup, use, and safety. Enjoy your new saw!
The best video on the radial arm saw hands down, period! Your graphics explaining the force differences between the table saw and the radial arms saw couldn't make it more clear. As someone who has ripped several thousand lineal feet of lumber on a radial arm saw, I know to use the nose of the blade guard to keep the work against the table. You only mentioned one of the carriage positions used for ripping, the "in rip" The other position , the "out rip" requires the work to be fed in from the opposite side. This always causes new users confusion. Simply, you feed into or against the blades' rotation, never with it. All those stories about workpieces shooting across the shop are typically a result of the wrong feed direction. My take is, table saws come with a rip fence, and are better for narrow rips. Radial arms saws are better for cross cuts on long, wider pieces. Each saw can do both, just that each is better at one operation.
Much appreciated-thanks for the comment. Agree, pros and cons with each saw and you have to use the one that you’ve most comfortable with. I do plan a video on in-rip and out-rip.
So glad for this video. I have been telling people for a couple years now that: ripping on a radial arm saw is extremely safe. The reason? Because you never operate a radial arm saw without the the blade guard in place. On a table saw, for typical home hobbyists, it is standard practice to remove the entire blade guard. In fact, crosscutting on a radial arm saw is extremely dangerous, because the blade is being pulled towards your body. When ripping on a radial arm saw, the blade is locked, it cannot climb or accelerate towards your body by accident. Also, the blade guard does not function at all during a crosscut, it provides almost zero safety because the guard must be set high enough to clear the fence in a crosscut. In a radial arm saw rip cut, the blade guard can be set to 0.000" clearance, interference fit, precluding any possibility of accidentally pushing your hand into the blade unless you intentionally slide it under the blade guard after the cut has been made. Something not talked about: the dust collection on a radial arm saw, during a rip cut, is second to none. Few saws have better dust collection for a rip cut. For crosscutting, radial arm saws have zero dust collection, because the blade guard only functions during a rip cut. Radial arm saws excel at rip cutting. Their dust collection and safety is far greater with a rip cut, compared with the typically very dusty, and potentially unsafe "pull" crosscut.
@@starseeddeluxe Thanks for the comment. I don’t agree with the general statement that a RAS is “extremely dangerous” when cross-cutting. If you are using a correct blade (which is probably the most important consideration when operating a RAS), you will not experience an aggressive climb cut. Proper technique including a firm hand on the yoke and never putting your other hand in the path of the blade prevents injury. If you’ve ever used an incorrect blade on a RAS, you may have been startled by a climb cut, but it is more likely to stall the motor or damage your saw than injure the operator. Likewise, ripping on a RAS is not safe because the yoke is locked. It’s because you are feeding the wood against the blade rotation. If you feed the wood from the wrong direction, you would experience a very different effect! In that case, it’s essentially the same as a climb cut, but you don’t have a fence to stop the wood from auto-feeding.
Helpful video... also nice to see I'm not the only one using a 60 year old Dewalt RAS.
Thank you. There’s a lot more of us out there then you might think!
Thank you for sharing your insight. I've owned my vintage DeWalt radial arm saw for 17 years now and I enjoy using it. I took great care in setting it up and always get good results. As with all my power tools, making cuts safely is my number one priority.
Thank you. I always envision the cut procedure before I make it and try to anticipate what could go wrong.
@@brianweekley5700I do the exact same thing. I rehearse the procedure and take my time to check everything over to minimize risk.
Thank you for taking the time to show the proper way to rip on a RAS. I prefer to use my RAS as my primary saw as well. It's so versatile and takes up less space than a cabinet saw. Thanks again for all you do to keep us educated on these great machines.
Thank you.
Just drove 4 hours to get a Delta 12 inch turret saw. After doing a fair amount of research and watching videos like yours, I came to the conclusion that a RAS will also be the heart of my small shop. Thank you very much for the quality content. I like your informative no BS style. Please keep making RAS videos.
Thanks so much! Congrats on your new saw. I highly recommend joining our DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum (even if you have a Delta)! It's a great source for all things RAS and a place to ask any questions about setup and use.
@@brianweekley5700 thank you, I will be joining!
I totally agree that 99.9% of accidents are caused by operator error. I also have seen more people injured on tablesaws than RAS.
Thanks for the comment. To be fair, there are many more table saw users than radial arm saw users. Last year, I had a friend sustain a serious finger injury on a table saw. I do like having my hands further away from the blade while ripping on a RAS.
All things equal (which they aren’t, by far), I like having my digits much further away from the blade with a RAS, especially when ripping. That, and I love the versatility of a RAS vs needing multiple saws. A RAS is the Swiss Army knife of the saw world.
The "Swiss Army knife" of the saw world. Love that! LOL!
Selection bias much?
@@VEC7ORlt To be fair, few people are natively great with statistical analysis. Most folks need trained, or at least be given cause to actually engage the problem on a deep and thoughtful level. Like the Navy with its lucky-to-caught survivorship bias, even otherwise intelligent and rational people will fall into the pit trap that is approaching statistical analysis via feelings, gut or otherwise. For anything and everything any given person knows, there was a day they did not. Someone had to take the time, to figure it out themselves (which is where fallacies can really run amok, as it's the sort of mistake you'll keep repeating), or else someone took the time to teach. :P We're all born idiots, in other words, and life is the process of amending that natural fault. Most folks ain't wrong on purpose. So, it's best them a little wiser, a little more clever, a little more enlightened. And, preferably, encouraged, not shamed. Short quips can end up sounding harsher than intended; and people afraid of being wrong tend to be left to repeat unnecessary mistakes. The world has too much of that, already. Just a thought, anyway. ..though I came to say pretty much the same. >.> Don't misread me, though, 'cause I'd far prefer a harsh lesson than being condemned to enduring ignorance. :P
Great video! My dad had a complete shop and the only machine he had an accident with was the table saw. I thought the RAS was safer than the table saw back then, but I didn’t have KZhead to set me straight. Thanks for your well thought out presentation.
Thank you. All power tools deserve respect!
Outstanding presentation, educational value off the charts! You bet I subscribed! One of the best videos in presentation I have recently experienced...very well done!
Thank you very much!
Thanks Brian, you are the best source for RAS valid information.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Hi Brian, excellent video, since it confirms all my own preconceptions. That said, my RAS is my primary workshop saw but I have added a compound sliding mitre saw which now accounts for virtually all my crosscutting work. Ripping and dadoes are the RAS domain.
Thanks!
Though I don't own a radial arm saw anymore, I still love watching videos showing how versatile and useful they can be. It was great to see you mentioned Mr. Sawdust! Wallace Kunkel was my Grand Uncle (my Grandfather's brother).
Thanks. That's neat that you're related!
Another excellent video Brian ! Well done ! as always , thank you for the Mr. Sawdust mention.
Thank you, Wally. That means a lot coming from you. You and your dad have been very inspirational to me.
Best documentary I've watched in a while. Amazing production quality.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the comment!
Thanks! I learned a lot from your channel about RAS. I'm not sure why but the RAS is my favorite saw in my shop.
Thank you. It's one of my favorite tools also!
Thanks Brian for the high production quality of the video and the thoughtful content. I like the graphics and historical perspectives as well and learning more technical details about the saw and its proper use. Looking at the beauty of your saw and the various jigs you've assembled is impressive - makes me jealous. I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the kind reply.
Excellent explanation of operation, Brian! Thanks for creating this outstanding educational video.
Thanks, Rush!
Thank you for this very well thought out and presented discussion on rip cuts on my radial arm saw. I understand that ANY power tool, or even tool, can be a danger if used incorrectly. I have been reluctant to rip on my radial arm saw, but after watching your video I see it is easy to build the proper tools to make ripping easy and with care, safe. I have used a table saw for a while until after 68 years the motor failed. It is my fathers saw and I will restore it to good condition. But while lookinng for a motor I found radial arm saws are very low cost saws today and after purchasing one I have found it is very accurate and easy to use as long as I know where the blade and my fingers are. It be my goto saw from now on.
Thanks! I love table saws too. However, I sold my table saw and rely on my two radial arm saws-mainly to save space in my shop. I don’t really miss it since I can do everything with the RAS. It’s different, but just as capable.
Brian - Its been a long time since I watched one of your videos and I am really impressed with the both the content and presentation. This is by far the best presentation I've seen on ripping. And it is the most impartial and honest. Roy
Thanks, Roy. I really appreciate that.
Excellent and comprehensive video on the safe and proper use of a RAS
Glad you liked it
You are the BEST! Fantastic job on this video! Thank you so much! So many people need to watch this video. DeWalt is the best Radial ever made!
Thanks so much Leo!
Brian my dad left me a Delta/Rockwell 33-267. I made the mistake of selling that saw. It's now been 3 years and I've finally found a replacement in a 33-285. This one needs a new table top along with calibration. The uncle of the person I bought it from had an 8" blade in the RAS. My first thought before watching your video would be to replace the blade. Now watching your video, I see the advantage of using an 8" blade. It's going to be sometime before I have this saw ready for use. However; this will replace my need for a cross cutting sled. I am saving your video to come back and watch again to ensure I employ the safety features. You showed and mentioned how easy it is for a table saw to launch a board backwards at the operator. While cutting a 2X4, I learned a very valuable lesson. The 2X4 was shot back at me and hit me in the stomach. It knocked the wind out of me. Thankfully I was lucky enough to walk away with only bruising. Since that incident(or accident depending on your point of view), I now either stand off to the left of the cut or in some cases on the side of the table saw. I'm sure someone will tell me the perpendicular side of the table saw is not safe. I appreciate the time and energy you put into making this content. Thank you.
Thank you. Congrats on your new saw. The Delta’s are good saws and I’m sure it will treat you well. The Freud LU83 is available in both 8 and 10” sizes. Obviously, the 10” gives greater cut capacity, but sometimes the 8” comes in handy for hardwoods or ripping. BTW, I have several other videos on my channel regarding making tables, setup/adjustment, and other functions that you may find useful. Be safe.
Wally Kunkel has a great table in his book,How to master the RAS
@@martintheron1386 Absolutely. That’s how I make all my tables!
100% agree. Thanks. I was dubious about getting on.e a couple of years ago, but the possibilities and configurations make so much sense! I do think it’s safe if operated properly!
Thanks. Be safe!
Thank you for making this video. I use my RAS quite often and I love it.
Thank you. I use mine frequently.
You have a great looking and obviously well cared for saw. It is such a pleasure to see it work. Thank you for showing theses safety tips!!!
Thanks. Yes, it’s a nice saw! I appreciate the comment.
Very good demonstration. Thanks for the tips. That is a beautiful saw you have.
Thank you very much!
This is an absolutely great video that will be a resource for many, for years to come..... especially with the imminent table saw price hike.
Thank you. I agree table saw prices will go up significantly once AIM is required on all saws.
@@brianweekley5700 Surely prices will go up should mandatory AIM actually come to pass but, for me personally, I considered only the Sawstop jobsite saws. There are times and places to save money but, IMO, the choice of a power saw is neither. I still do not have a Sawstop. The cabinet saw was a logistic impracticality, getting a 350 lb behemoth into my basement. I am still considering the SS Jobsite Pro and the SS Compact TS. If I procrastinate long enough, it seems impending legislation could make for more choices.
@@terrydanks I certainly would like to see more competition in saw safety out there.
Great video! Three things that will help prevent RAS and table saw accidents, and that is a conscience yet respectable fear of their blades, reading instructions and sage advise!
Thanks! Totally agree.
cutting the cord, right up close to the motor works too.
Thank you for another well put together instructional video. I did not know Mr Reiche passed on….RIP sir. His site was absolutely invaluable to me when I began to learn about these great old machines.
Thanks. Yes, Paul’s passing is a big loss. Wally Kunkel’s grandson has taken on the site.
Very helpful video! Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Very well done. Clear graphics. There is no way a RAS is more dangerous than a table saw. No way. They make sense, they’re efficient, they’re space-savers, and they’re versatile.
Thank you!
Very interesting and complete video. I developed a fascination for the radial arm saw, a such versatile tool. Almost bought one but a friend of mine , woodworker by trade, put his veto. So, I sticked to the table saw :)
Thank you. I use and appreciate table saws too! I'm not saying not to use one--only trying to show that radial arm saws can be used for ripping (when used correctly).
Ripped every railing and balister for my deck using a Craftsman radial arm saw. As with any tool, education is the greatest safety feature.
Thanks. Sounds like a lot of work, but I'm sure it was worth it!
Thanks, this video has been very educational & helpful for me. I've had a Delta radial arm saw, (amongst other woodworking equipment) sitting idle in my basement for about 20 years now. Due to a slowdown at work and a soon anticipated retirement, I've taken an interest in these things. The RAS has got to be the most intimidating machine for me all the while knowing the many functions it's capable of that I want to learn while maintaining possession of my fingers and hands and keeping boards from flying into my gut. I think you've laid out a lot of good advice for safe usage or the RAS.
Thanks! You should definitely setup your RAS, I always suggest people to buy a copy of the book, "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by Wally Kunkel (I have no affiliation--just a great reference). It's a must have for setup, use, and safety. Also consider joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum" (Delta people are welcome too). A great place to answer any questions you may have about your RAS.
The 2nd most terrifying thing that you can see in a work shop is to watch a ripped board eject from a RAS used in the wrong direction. The 1st most terrifying thing you can see is a table saw operator continually reach across an open spinning blade, time after time to clear the table or position a new board. I always see the blade on a RAS. Can't say the same for a table saw.
I have a hard time seeing how someone could rip the wrong direction on a RAS unless they have absolutely no idea what they're doing or have never used one before. It also means they have't taken all the other steps necessary before ripping. I agree that being able to see the blade from above is certainly easier to cut dados, rabbets, or make plow cuts!
@@brianweekley5700 Actually, in very specific cases I HAVE ripped "in the wrong direction." It is with sheet stock. I start in the "right" direction but finish in the "wrong" direction as I can not control the feed entirely in the "right" direction. Of course I know the dangers and never am in the position where I could be pulled into the blade. Biggest danger is ruining the sheet! But the recent acquisition of a track saw means I'll never have to do this again. IMO, track saws are now "THE" way to break down sheet stock!
@@terrydanks Sounds like you weren't using adequate out-feed tables. Agree that track saws are great. I generally don't try to rip anything larger than 2 feet wide on a TS or RAS if I can break it down first. Just makes it less awkward and more manageable.
You know, I’m happy to see this video. One thing I found interesting is you mentioning the saw pushing the material down to the table when ripping. My experience was the board wants to lift from the table. Even when you set the guard as low to the material as possible. Board buddies would help, I considered them. I bought my first table saw maybe a month or two after going through an RAS stint. The table saw is a dream in comparison in my opinion. I’ve parted with my last RAS for now until I can get a larger shop space in the future I’m guessing. Too many other tools to prioritize first. Awesome tools. Be careful. Use a sacrificial push stick to finish the cut ripping on the RAS at all times my friends.
Thanks. Yes, the RAS does tend to lift the board up at the beginning of the cut/front half of the saw blade. However, the portion of the board past the center axis of the blade has no upward force to lift it. Therefore, there’s no need to hold the board down all the way past the blade like a table saw. I rip on table saws too. The purpose of my video was to show it is possible to safely rip on a RAS.
I learned how to use a radial arm saw in high school shop class. I now live in Europe and have never seen one here. That is, until recently, I noticed an old dusty Craftsman radial arm saw in the corner of my Dutch boat builder's shop.. Your video encourages me to ask the boat builder if he would like to part with his saw. Thank you for this video.
Thanks. If they’re not using it, why not!
RAS machines are still common in large workshops across Europe but used almost exclusively for rough crosscutting of stock as a first step in the milling process. Precision crosscutting is almost always done on sliding table saws as they offer higher precision, ease of use and safety. That being said, high quality new RAS machines are still being manufactured by companies like Graule and Maggi.
Here in the US, many home woodworkers still use radial arm saws. In larger, commercial settings, they are still used mainly for crosscutting wood and metal. The Original Saw Company still manufactures quality radial arm saws for commercial use.
I've inherited my father's DeWalt RAS many years ago, (2011) but without the claw attachment. Now I realize my father also received it without an anti-kickback paw. As an unexperienced woodworker I've also never set the blade cover down when ripping and experienced bord lift and kickback and I became very frustrated with the RAS, luckily no injuries while using it the wrong way with just any blade. Thanks for the video! Now I will take it out of its 5 or more years off storage, but I don't think I will be able to find only the claw for the RAS here in South Africa.
We joke that somewhere there is a pile of them because so many people removed them-never to be seen again. If you join the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, there are some posts in the FAQs section that show how you can make one. Also, if you post on that forum that you are looking for one, somebody might have one for sale.
Well Brian, you finally pushed me over the precipice! Bought a 925H yesterday and ordered the "book". Hopefully a pleasant journey!
Oh no, don't blame me! LOL! Have fun with your new toy. The DeWalt 925 is a good, small saw.
Great video Brian. I have the option to rip with a radial arm saw, a Shopsmith, setup in the table saw configuration, or a band saw. There are some ripping scenarios that I will only use my radial arms saw because it is safer in my opinion. In Wally Kunkel’s book he explains how to use a straight edge clamped to the piece being cut and running that straight edge against the front of the radial arm saw table. The cut off piece falls away from the blade. This requires the operator to stand in front of table, not behind the blade at all. I use this method for ripping off live edges, crooked edges, and long tapered edges.
Thanks! Sometimes, there are multiple tools that work for a given job, but you need to select the one that best works for you. I'm certainly not trying to suggest that the RAS should be selected over other tools. My intent was simply to dispel the rumors that ripping can't be safely done on a RAS. The sled run along the front of the RAS table (also a sled run against the fence) is a great example for ripping a live edge board. However, a sled run along a table saw fence can be used too. I may choose to rip on my bandsaw, table saw, or RAS, depending on the situation.
Wow! Very good video! I had no idea about the blades. I am using a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw that I inherited from my Father when he passed. I received a bunch of free 2 X 6 and 2 X 8 fir that I have had to rip down into 2 X 4 size. Just ordered an 8" Freud LU83 blade. Can't wait to try it out ripping! Thanks!
Thanks. It should work well for you. Good luck with ripping boards!
Thank you for this post. I have most types of saws rasin my hobby shop. I only use the radial arm saw for cross cuts
As long as it serves a purpose, it's a great addition to any shop.
This is an excellent video, very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Thoughtful and well presented.
Thank you!
Excellent presentation. Only had one kickback on a RAS, when the workpiece was too short to reach the pawls after the cut.
Thanks. That’s where the push board comes in handy to push the piece through to the pawls.
thank you,very informative,i plan on setting up 2 of my radial arm saws just for ripping.appreciate the mathematical formulas for the gains of using a smaller blade
Thank you!
Great Video! Thank You! Be safe! Work Safe!
Thanks, you too!
Excellent video. I love my old Dewalt RAS.
Thanks!
Thanks Brian, love my RAS
Thanks. Be safe!
Great vid, I love a ras, had an old wadkin that was a joy to use. I was taught to always use negative rake to stop the grap and the head being thrown at you though.
Thanks. There's more to blade choice than just hook angle. Although a negative hook blade may typically be less aggressive when crosscutting, it isn't always the best (or best cut quality) in all other modes. The Forrest blade that I recommended was developed by arguably the world's foremost radial arm saw expert, Wally Kunkel. It has a +5 angle, but is also a TCG design. The Freud blade that I recommended also has a positive angle, but has been tested extensively by many people over many, many years on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. They work exceptionally well in all configurations (crosscut bevel, miter, and rip). I've never experienced any aggressive climb cut with these blades.
@@brianweekley5700 Well worth looking into certainly. They are truly the most versatile of saws. Do yours take dado and shaper heads over there like the Wadkin do?
@@mattcable6379 Yes, I routinely use dado and shaper heads on my saws.
Hi 👋, I have had a kick back many many years ago, On a very old table saw, I used to use it to bookmatch pieces of wood when making veneers, The piece of wood was about 6 to 7 inches thick, and approximately 4 foot long, and anywhere between eight and 10 inches wide, a big lump of timber, I had been doing this for many years, Never had a problem, however, one day on a Friday at approximately 3:58 in the afternoon, I looked up at the clock at the end of my workshop wall, I do not remember much else, apart from I could hear a humming noise, wearing noise, the piece of wood that I was cutting raised up off the blade, and dropped back down onto it, the motor was around 10 hp, I believe the blade was around 24 to 26 inches in diameter, Need to say nothing was going to storm the motor, the piece of wood came back and hit me in my right hand side of my stomach, and shot me down the workshop, narrowing, missing a spigot that was sticking out on the side of my bench grinder, where I used to put on my mop, for backing a chisel, this spigot to through my clothes that I was wearing , luckily did not cut me, however, I did spend two days in hospital, And my body turned black, Because of this, I had to sell up all my tools and business, after working for myself for around 14 years, and as for the radial arm, saw, is a excellent piece of kit, As you say, making sure that it is correctly set up, Even to the point where I would remove the blade and the spindle, to make sure that the table was at the correct light at all angles, I would make sure I could slide just a piece of paper underneath it, and adjust the height of the table accordingly, never had a kickback on the radial arm saw when ripping, it is like any other machine, when used and set up correctly, it is very safe, What I find strange , when watching KZhead, people using the surface planer/jointer, Guards, open guard, And pushing the piece of wood across the surface, where if there is a kickback, your hand fingers go straight into the block, I believe this to be one of the most dangerous machines to be used, Your guard should be virtually touching your piece of wood, and no blade visible when using the machine, I have even seen a young lad , using a radio arm saw, where I saw him two or three times cross his hands over to grab the piece of wood from the right hand side and bring it across in front of the saw, On the third or fourth attempt, I managed to grab hold of him and pull him away from the machine, he got very angry, asked me why I done, I said you will lose your hand, and most of your arm, doing what you are doing by crossing your left over to your right in front of the blade, I’m now in my mid 70s retired, still have my fingers, and I still have most of my machinery, And hopefully in the next few months, area that I can use as a workshop, and hoping that I can start to make a Sam Maloof, chair, Something I’ve always fancy doing, is teaching people how to use and make furniture , hope this is an insight to somebody, and can help, stay safe, Phil from the moulin France.
Thank you for your comment. Kickbacks are scary on any machine. I'm so glad that you understand, are aware of the correct safety procedures, and willing to teach others the same. Good luck with your furniture making. A Sam Maloof chair sounds life a fantastic project!
Excellent presentation and advice
Thank you kindly!
@@brianweekley5700 I have a 12” craftsman that is acceptable and an older cast-iron Rockwell that I am wanting to setup properly.
Excellent. Having two are great for setting up different operations.
100% excellent video. Every word precise and true. My primary suspected reason that RA saws got their bad rep was PR stories by table saw makers!
Thank you. Maybe PR had some influence?
climb cutting by default on cross cuts is why it's scares me.
@@cho4d Your fear is less valid than good workmanship and care around powertools. Don't be a woos -- get educated and follow best practise. After all, they didn't get to the moon because they were afraid of leaving earth. 🙄
Climb cutting is not an issue if you use the correct blade! One hand on the yoke and one hand on the board. It is not a monster. In all my decades of RAS use, the only time "climb cutting" was ever an issue was when I installed a cheap dado stack that had an aggressive, positive hook angle (+15). I promptly retired that dado stack.
First class presentation. I’ve used a RAS for many years and I’m just as nervous using it as my table saw and that’s perfectly fine with me. I now own three old school Dewalts and one Delta, love them all.
Thank you. Agree--a little fear is needed to operate any power tool. Never get complacent!
A ripping good tutorial there Brian. ☺
Thanks, Hank. Always good to hear from you.
Около двадцати лет занимаюсь столярным делом, думаю, большенство профессиональных столяров рано или поздно приходят к радиальным пилам. Она удобна и многогранна! Спасибо за видео, вы подтвердили мои предложения!
Спасибо
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing.
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
Good to see the classic DeWalt's still in use. Good condition too.
Thanks. Absolutely, they’re great machines!
The RAS or Radial Arm Saw is so misunderstood. In my opinion, it's far superior to that of a table saw. Honestly, wished I had one, they're extremely versatile. No saw is any safer than another. I also feel that a RAS is perfect for making dado's over the TS. I will say if you use a thin kerf blade, make certain you use a stiffener, they do tend to "wobble". Another addition to what the RAS could do, you could remove the head and install a router if you had the proper attachment, again, making the RAS a versatile machine. Any and all accidents are operator error. Heck, I had kick back on my joiner once, messed up my right thumb for a few months, still have mobility issues with that thumb. In addition to what you're saying, "some people shouldn't be around power tools". Thank you for sharing this video. Cheers :)
Thanks for the comment. Well said. Yes, a blade stiffener is a good addition to a thin kerf blade and dados are so nice on a RAS.
woow, that one was useful 💪 thx for this knowledge 🤩
Glad it was helpful!
What a beautiful De Walt saw. I would have paid a lot of money years ago for that beauty. To hard to find one in good condition these days. The people who have them don’t appreciate them and don’t even know how to use them but they want lots of money because “someone” told them it’s gold.
Thanks. There's plenty of good saws out there to be had. I restored that saw: kzhead.info/sun/ebJxnsWvmqGanXk/bejne.htmlsi=dwwxdRHW3qoh1XJ2
Always good to watch your videos. I'd say that dust extraction makes ripping on a radial arm saw relatively unpleasant. The dust is certainly less annoying using the RAS outside. In the workshop shop dust extraction on a European style table saw with guard in place is much less dusty. I've never had much success in dust collect on a RAS.
Thank you. Have you watched my video on dust collection? I find dust collection while ripping not too bad. Usually a little burst when the wood first enters the blade, but does pretty well thereafter. It is worse when I use a smaller diameter blade. Is your dust port on the front or the rear of the guard?
Hmm, I have not used a European saw, but can confirm that I get really good dust removal while ripping on my Delta RAS. Just like the Euro tools, one must use some form of dust extraction to actively draw the dust away. Remarkably, when the operator follows the great guidance in this video, by lowering the blade guard to the workpiece and attaching a shop vac to the chip chute on the guard, I seem to get better than 95% water removal. But, if a vac is not used, then the chips pour out of the chip chute and make a big mess, just like any other tool that isn’t utilizing dust control(s).
Thanks for the information! I picked up a ras years ago but when I asked my older carpenter freind about settting it up he said he would not help because he had personally seen too many incidents of ejection when ripping and too many climb cuts while cross cutting. It has sat in the corner under a tarp ever since. Now I know that I have to find some kickback pawls for it if I want to try it out.
if your friend experienced ejections while ripping (or climb cuts cross-cutting), I'd put money down that he was not using an appropriate blade (and probably wasn't using the anti-kickback pawl). The Freud LU83 will work great for all cut modes.
@brianweekley5700 I agree. It did intimidate me at the time so that's why I never used it.
Your friend’s experiences are typical of a few operator-errors, no offense to your friend. Brian’s great videos cover how to correct those errors. In this video he mentioned the importance of blade choice WRT to cut efficiency, but his other vids touch on the tooth rake angles, proper table construction, and proper tuning/alignment, which are all critical to safe use. The great value of the RAS is its amazing adaptability, but those many ways of tweaking the cutting operation necessitate the operator to correctly control/tune the several degrees of freedom, including a perfectly flat and level table. If a single adjustment is not correctly set, then the blade can easily contact the workpiece in a way that compromises the cut quality or even grab the workpiece. Proper tuning yields perfect cuts, just like a cabinet saw.
@@SuperBardleyI completely agree. My friend built houses for 50 years and his experience was a mobile,temporary set up, in which the RAS is the wrong tool for the job. In a shop setting the RAS can be maintained square and level far easier. There is also less temptation to use the wrong or a dull blade.
Agree-the RAS is not viewed as a portable saw. However, back in the day before chops saws/sliding miter saws, the RAS was commonly taken to job sites all over the place on custom trailers (search for radial arm saw on trailers). Granted, they were probably used more for crosscutting then ripping though.
Thanks. I am installing the yellow Board Buddies. I think I got enough information of how you use them on your saw by looking at the pictures.
My board buddies are attached to blocks 2-1/2 inches high that are screwed to the back tables. This allows them to reach over the fence and gives them a good range of adjustment.
1.) I remember hearing that the bad accident that occurred as reported in the Newspapers in the 1950's, was at a commercial lumber yard, and the saw was an industrial 3 horsepower, 3 phase, radial arm saw, with a 14 inch blade! Note: The less power you have, the less likely you are to have a catastrophic climb or kickback. A 10 amp motor is considered "weak" but it also provides a margin of safety for preventing kickbacks. 2.) I read a story a couple years ago on a forum, of a man who was using his industrial cabinet table saw to rip a full sheet of plywood. He made a mistake, and the plywood grabbed the blade and the entire sheet of plywood ejected him violently backwards against the shop wall. He recounted how lucky he was, that there were no sharp objects behind him. 3.) Table saw kickbacks where a riving knife and guard are not installed properly, are perhaps the single biggest problem that has ever existed, followed closely by the jointer. Saw Stop should never have been allowed to stop other companies from developing "flesh detection" technology. Bosch had a completely different system that provided increased safety, and Saw Stop sued them. 4.) In my opinion (and not an expert opinion) it is better to use a conventional push stick, that pushes down on the material, as you are performing your rip cut on a radial arm saw. This is better than relying on the anti-kickback pawls, because you can maintain downward force on the material, to prevent it from lifting or chattering. Chattering leads to blade marks, but it can also exacerbate a full kickback. 5.) I've not found any reason to use a crosscut blade for any radial arm saw operations. Modern ripping blades have anti-kickback pawls/rakers/shoulder teeth that prevent the tooth from grabbing too big of a bite. Modern 20 tooth or 22 tooth ripping blade are so sharp that they produce zero tear out, even on thin veneered plywood. MikeBigTuna on KZhead with his radial arm saw tutorial, states in the video, that he only uses a modern anti-kickback thin kerf ripping blade, 100% of the time, for all manner of woodworking. 6.) Having half as many blade teeth, equals half as much fine sawdust (in theory). See Brian Weekley's videos about how he does his dust collection, because it's some of the best I've seen for radial arm saws! Thank you Brian for this AMAZING radial arm saw video! It's one of the best on the internet.
Excellent video. You make the best RAS videos on youtube. Thank you. At the end, you made mentioned you recommended only ripping on a cast iron RAS, but that was never explained. Did you have specific reasons why you would limit it to cast iron saws?
Thanks--I appreciate that. After the 1960s, many RAS makers began to cheapen their saws and take shortcuts which reduced the ability of the machines to maintain their settings and alignment. Many of the frames were lightened and the arms were no longer solid. This allowed the saw to flex more. When I refer to the "cast iron" saws, I really mean the older, heavier, over-built saws that are more rock-solid and hold their alignments well. Likewise, I prefer a table saw with a machined, cast iron table vs. one with a cheap, stamped-steel or polymer one.
@@brianweekley5700 I got the impression that you were recommending to only rip if you had a cast iron saw. That most of the RAS out there were built after 1960 (though it seems like these saws are less likely to be saved), would you discourage ripping on them? If you take requests, I noticed in some of your older videos you had the older Dewalt but also had a newer saw (squarish arm) but seemed like you later acquired another old Dewalt. I'd love to hear your experiences using the later model versus the older model saw. Cast iron is supposed to absorb vibration well and I'd think vibration would be a major factor in taking a RAS out of square over time, but I'm thinking there's more to it than that, but having a newer saw I don't know what I might be missing.
An excellent video. I bought a radial arm saw after watching your videos and several others. I did not want to spend a large amount of money needed for a sliding miter saw that could be calibrated to make really accurate cuts. I was able to buy a 1957 DeWalt and, using the information from your videos and from the Northland Woodworker, tune it up perfectly. I sometimes rip boards with it, but I follow all the recommended safety procedures including adding the board buddies. Speaking just for myself, I would be interested in seeing a few project videos using only the radial arm saw. Please keep your videos coming, I think they are extremely well-made and informative. I also wonder if you'll get a response video from James (Stumpy Nubs) Hamilton. He's made a few RAS videos focused on how they can be misused.
I think stumpy, who I think normally does a good job, missed the boat on that one. He really shows a bias against the RAS. He acted like people don't do equally unsafe things on a table saw. I also noticed He is pushing Harvey Table saws. Wondered if that colored his presentation. Enough said about James. Brian thank you for trying to set the record straight with facts.
Thank you very much. I do have several project videos that were made primarily with the radial arm saw. One of the most recent ones was this... kzhead.info/sun/eqmyZLWHrpqto6c/bejne.htmlsi=W-QL3G82Pp3H7FyO
I’m glad i found your channel! I’ve recently added my late father’s Dewalt radial arm saw to my show. I’ll be watching your other videos to ensure that everything is properly aligned. Your newest subscriber has one question: where do you find the “board buddies” that you described & depicted? Thanks for focusing time & attention on these misunderstood, but wonderful saws!
Thanks-glad you found my videos useful. Woodstock “Board Buddies” can be found at Grizzly and other woodworking suppliers. Equivalent “Board Mates” can be found at Peachtree Woodworking. The Yellow (clockwise) version is most useful on the RAS. BTW, I’ll be providing more info about ripping and the use of board buddies in an upcoming video.
Thank you very much for the source of Board Buddies. Again, I’m very glad that I found your channel!
Very informative video, thnak you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful video. I have a near-complete GWI model and I cannot seem to find a pawl for it since it is less common. The only ones I find are for the smaller and more common versions. The manuals for both seem to indicate that the pawl for the GWI is not the same one that is used for the smaller saw.
I have a DeWalt GW and an MBF. They use the same ripping pawl.
Great, I am happy to be mistaken. I will restart the search. Thanks!
Thanks!
Really nice presentation thanks.
Thank you!
a friend of mine who I turned on to a GP portable, he's in love with it and even financed a motor rewind for 850.00 bucks. Plus an expensive mag starter cause he didn't know any better, says to me I better not catch anyone ripping on an ras! It really is something how the saw got such a bad rap for ripping.
@@roofermarc1 That's a big investment to rewind a RAS motor! However, the GP is great saw!
I’ve owned my Dewalt RAS for over 30 years and I’ve made just about anything it can make mouldings all types of cuts drilling routing sanding etc. first and foremost as with any power tool in the shop you must fully understand how to operate the equipment, for the RAS there’s plenty of information about using it correctly one of the best books out there there is the book by Mr. Sawdust that fully goes into the operation of the RAS. Just be safe stop when your tired and don’t push the machine beyond it’s capabilities and you’ll be fine ..
Totally agree! Thanks.
good video, i agree with your conclusion. putting matters of safety down to "you have to set it up correctly every single time" is basically asking for people to get injured. not ALL people, but a lot of them.
Thanks. If you’re implying that the radial arm saw needs some sort special setup every time you use it, that’s not what I said. I’m just referring to the initial setup of the saw (when you first put it into service). The initial setup of a RAS takes some work. However, once it is properly setup, it’s no different than using a table saw.
@@brianweekley5700 sure, that's fair, but the saw is designed to be multi purpose, so people will be re-setting it up for different operations. it's an advantage to the RAS but it demands the user do things correctly. the table saw can't do things the RAS can do which is a disadvantage, but at the same time leaves little room for user error in this specific area.
Sorry, I don't get it--both machines are multi-purpose! You perform the same multi-purpose operations on the TS that you do on the RAS. Moving the carriage to set a rip width on RAS is equivalent to moving the fence on a TS. Rotating the arm to set a miter on RAS is equivalent to rotating the miter gauge on TS. Tilting the blade to cut a bevel on a RAS is equivalent to tilting the blade on a TS. You can put a dado blade on the RAS just like you put a dado blade on a TS, etc... You're making it far more complicated then it is. The only real difference between the two machines is that on the RAS you (pull the blade) through the wood (cross-cut, miter, bevel) where on the TS you (push the wood) through the blade. While ripping, both are equivalent operations (pushing the wood through the blade). The machines are different, but perform the same functions.
Great video!
Thanks so much!
I ripped for many years on my dad’s DeWalt MBF. I was in my early teens when I began using it. Fifty years later I still have all body parts. Proper alignment of EVERY part of the saw is critical. There are many things that can cause the blade to drag on one side of the kerf, leading to mishaps. I had two kickbacks with that saw. Both were my fault. The first flung a narrow, short workpiece…hard! It was too short and it cocked behind the blade. It hit an upright piece of plywood, ricocheted, and landed over 50 feet away in the street. The second was a longer but very narrow rip cut. Again, the piece was too small and light. If I’d had a proper push block as pictured in this video, it wouldn’t have happened. I didn’t realize at the time that the table was probably warped. You can’t align the saw to an imperfect table. I never had a crosscut climb to disaster. When it happened (because I wasn’t in proper control of the carriage), it’d just stall the blade. I now own a 5 HP DeWalt that demands proper attention to its operation. Lastly, I also have a 10 HP DeWalt that someone, sometime let get away. The arm end cap has been brazed back together, so it appears that somebody had a bad day when the carriage and 16” blade burst into his lap. Perhaps in the same incident, the arm broke where it pivots on the column. I doubt that damage was ever noticed until I bought the saw for its long arm, which of course isn’t usable. Oh well. No one will ever know what sort of neglect or abuse led to those accidents, but yes, don’t play games of ignorance or carelessness with the big DeWalts.
Thanks. All good points. Stay safe!
Regarding blade selection, what are your thoughts on the Freud LU91 negative hook blade? While primarily for crosscutting it is thin kerf and a 60 tooth count and says it can also be used for ripping. Is it worth using for cross cuts due to its less aggressive nature? Will it still works well for ripping?
All I can say is that the creator of the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum" spent many years testing and evaluating blades for the RAS. I suggest joining the group and exploring the FAQs section on the website. The two blades that I recommended have proven records on the RAS over many years by many users. It also partially dispels the common belief that you must use a negative hook blade (both of the blades we recommend actually have a positive hook angle).
This is a great video! I couldn't have done better myself. And remember, if you visit New York, be sure to see Schenectady: Its a paradise!
Thanks. I appreciate your videos too!
that video was great thank you very much I just buy an use it arm saw and I am collecting information about safety for this device. I never work on it before. Thank you very much.
Thank you.
That's a beautiful old dewalt. (Back when dewalt was actually dewalt) my grandfather bought one new I the 60s, a little 10" unit, to help build his home. He ripped with it and had cutter heads to make moldings as well.. he had all his fingers at the end.
Thank you. I'm always impressed when someone builds their own house. The DeWalt RAS helped many do it!
I grew up in a home that had the exact same AMF Dewalt Saw shown in this video my experience of Ripping on that Saw was it was always under powered therefore it made the motor overwork so much it would pop the Thermal Protctor and it took the two pair of hands guiding the Sheet Goods to let go of the Board to re set the Breaker
Yes, the MBF is rather under-powered. I generally rip with my larger, more powerful 1030.
thanks for info!!!! Owned a sears craftsman to dangerous not enough power for crosscuts. even with thin kerf 50 tooth
Thanks. Sounds like time to find a larger RAS!
I got one sitting. I'll use it now after watching this. I'll set it up at my milling station. Thanks
They are useful to have.
@@brianweekley5700 What part of the world are you in? You really got some great information down to the detail on saw blades. I'm getting ready to buy a bandsaw sharpener. I have a timberking 2020, and am very impressed with it. My property burned down in the Caldor fire, and the trees don't get destroyed, just killed. The lumber is great.
@@homesculptor I'm in New England. So sorry to hear about the fire out there and the damage to your property. Hope you get to take advantage of that bandsaw mill and the wood available. i see a nice, timber frame in your future!
@@brianweekley5700 Funny you should mention that. A neighbor lost about 20 large oaks. I'm going to mill them for a 30x40 barn. I think that would be so cool to have a barn with oak post and beam. I'm lifelong carpenter and love wood. However, I screwed up and bought heavy equipment and make more money doing that than I can carpentry. I did just build a 10x12 legally unpermitted shed way overbuilt and used cedar on the exterior. It took 3 28" diameter 16' logs to make the d.f. framing. And about the same for the cedar exterior. I routed all the cedar for the exterior. What a task that was.
Sounds like a fantastic project! I've cut a timber frame with only hand tools (the barn shown in my avatar and on my KZhead channel header).
Do you know where I can buy an anti-kickback pawl? I have an old dewalt. The pawl was lost long ago before I bought the saw. Nice video. Probably the safest way to rip is with a track saw.
The DeWalt pawls are different in size than the Craftsman. You can sometimes find them on eBay. On the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum, there are some posts that show you how to make one (in fact, you can see one that I made in some of the clips in this video at 17:00 to 17:25).
Thanks for the detailed info
Thank you. I appreciate that.
While I have eyed a Sawstop cabinet saw and would buy no other at this time, I really feel most at home with my 1976 vintage Sears 10" RAS. I feel I know it well and, yes, I have experienced a few kickbacks over the years. Truth is, I feel more secure ripping with it than with a table saw because I have so much experience with it and so little with a table saw. It seems strange that critics of the RAS complain about blade exposure and seem completely to overlook the totally exposed blade of the TS as they push wood past it without the use of even a push stick, let alone a blade guard! Both saws are potentially dangerous. I see them as being "different." But neither is inherently safer than the other. I did note that no mention was made in the video of a splitter. My saw has a splitter as well as kickback pawls and I use both religiously. I assumed all RAS had splitters? I have not been sophisticated in my choice of saw blades. I have ordered the Freud combo blade you mention. Were it not for the video, I would have gone with a low tooth count "ripping" blade rather than the combo. The tragedy described here is simply mind boggling! Having a child in the line of fire of kickback is unbelievable and no one so clueless has any business operating a power saw!
Thank you. If I ever replaced my table saw, it would surely be one that has AIM technology like the SawStop (really the only one currently available in the US). Interesting that you noticed no discussion on a splitter! I struggled with addressing that in this video. No, most RAS's did not come with splitters. I've only seen one very rare splitter on a large DeWalt saw. I believe some of the Craftsman models did? I've often thought about fabricating a splitter for mine (incorporated with the pawl). On a RAS, its only purpose would be to prevent reaction wood from potentially pinching the blade. A splitter (or riving knife) is much more important on a table saw to prevent the wood from moving into the back of the blade (not critical on a RAS). However, having a splitter on the pawl would also create a lot of alignment issues with the blade to work without a problem. I have had the blade be pinched two or three times where a splitter may have helped. Fortunately, this just slowed or stopped the blade and required me to stop the motor. Excellent point though! I think you'll be happy with the LU83. Let me know how you like it. These two blades are the only ones we recommend on the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, the splitter I mentioned is on a Sears Craftsman purchased new in 1976. The splitter rides on the same sliding adjustment arm as the kickback pawls and drops into the kerf (or, pedantically, where the kerf WILL be) automatically when the pawls are set. Simple. Whether it has saved me from anything, I cannot say as it's always there.
I'd really like to know what paint to used to restore your dewalt radial arm saw. Thanks in advance!
I have a separate video that describes the restoration. The paint was Rustoleum Multi-color, textured paint (Sea Green). kzhead.info/sun/ebJxnsWvmqGanXk/bejne.htmlsi=NUAFArRjsYV8_lkU
What's the best method to rip a 4'x8' sheet of plywood 24" wide?
Personally, I prefer a track saw for breaking down large sheet goods. Once they get to 24" wide, they are much more manageable on a RAS or TS.
Lol. What's the picture of the vintage fender bender supposed to illustrate?
LOL! Just my feeble attempt to illustrate the "turn of the century" (with old cars and power lines)!
@@brianweekley5700 haha. I thought it was to show the lack of electric street lights
Question....considering kick back is such an issue, would changing the direction the blade spins make any "kick back" push away from the user? Thereby solving this problem.
No. That is equivalent to ripping from the opposite direction. That is extremely dangerous on a RAS! In that situation, the board could self feed into the blade (pulling your hand in with it). On both the table saw and RAS, you always feed the wood against the blade rotation.
@brianweekley5700 gotcha! Yeah, that would be bad. Thanks! I was just curious. I've only had a table saw for about a year. Thankfully, I've never had a kickback. I always use a riving knife and an anti kick back paw.
A word about blade size. yes, larger blades reduce motor torque at the tooth. This is why DeWalt made these saws in hp ratings all the way up to 7 hp. If you regularly need to cross cut or rip thicker stock, buy the saw with the hp to drive the blade you need. For a 14” blade, you need 3-5 hp. To drive it with a 3 hp motor, you will want 3 phase power. For a 12” blade you want 2-3 hp. Anything less than 2 hp, stick with 10” or under. And if you decide to mount a dado stack, Drop your blade diameter by 4” for larger saws and by at least 2” for smaller saws. That is, If I want to cut a bunch of rabbets or dados without having to do a dozen passes per board, I will swap my 14” blade for a 10” or 8” diameter dado stack. ( with as many teeth on the side blades as I can find ) If you are running a 12” blade, your dado stack should be no bigger than 8”. But for a half horse saw running an 8” blade, a 6” dado should be fine.
Yes, totally agree with your points and always better to have a larger saw.
Brian, have you found setting your ripping measurement to be more difficult, than on a table saw? What is your solution for getting accurate rip width?
I've always used a steel rule against the fence to set the rip measurement on both RAS and table saws. Both come down to eyeing the teeth on the blade against the graduations on the rule. I never completely trust the scale on any saw!
@@brianweekley5700 I have had many years of use of table saws, various kinds in the contractor range, not accurate furniture work. Recently, I have been able to set up my radial(Delta Super 990) and I really like how it works, and finding I prefer using it for many cuts I’m used to on the table saw. But that one thing of setting the saw to rip accurately has been a challenge. I guess it will get better with the more time I get to spend using it. Enjoy your videos. Thanks
@@simonstuhl4170 BTW, you may find this "micro-adjuster" I made to help set and accurately fine tune the ripping distance... kzhead.info/sun/pb2eXdesr3aQl6s/bejne.html
I like the saw , I wish they were in production and stores would carry the saw. I believe this saw is the safest of the two. 3-22-24 9:00am
The original saw company still makes them in the USA, but they are pricey!
awesome video!!!! thank you so much
Thanks!
I have 3 table saws, and 2 ras. And i often use the ras to rip Its not a cast iron unit its a sears craftsmen from the 90s that last version, it both has kickback paws And a kind of riving knife or splitter I do use the board buddies, i made a special fence just for the operation out of a door jamb because the base of the board buddies were to long to screw into the normal fence . Its too bad we won't ever see jessem stock guides for it .they turn in the other direction. I know this because i have all 3 sets of the board buddies and the table saw set turn backwards of the ras set the shaper set freewheeling both directions. Board buddies help on the table saw too.
Board buddies are great. Typically, 95% of my ripping is in the "in-rip" direction (right to left). So, I use the "Yellow" board buddies. The Jessem wheels would also be suitable in this mode. However, if you typically rip in the "out-rip" direction (left to right), you need the "Orange" board buddies. In that case, the Jessem product will not work. Both can certainly can be useful on a table saw too.
the biggest problems i have run into with these saws has been when using them to cut molding profiles its a neat thing to be able to do but man is it finicky that and people in a rush doing lots of cross cuts but repetitive jobs tend to lend themselves to lapses in concentration
Yes, it can be finicky, but, but the RAS is a powerful tool for some molding profiles. Being able to tilt the yoke sometimes makes it easier to cut complicated profiles that you can't always do with a router table. Totally agree that you need to stay focused on the job at hand.
Last friday I found a Dewalt R1450 at a Habitat for Humanity resale store. The serial number shows to be from 1965 The previous owner definitely took care of it Has the original owner's manual? But I definitely was not understanding the proper way to rip with it. Thanks for this video It is extremely likely you saved me from getting hurt.
Congrats on your new tool. I highly suggest joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. It’s a great place to ask questions and learn a lot about your saw. I also recommend buying a copy of “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It’s a must have for safety, setup, and proper use.
Great video
Thank you!
What a great video!
Thanks!
nice vid matey.
Much appreciated!
I am in the process of building my second home using a radial arm saw. I have read the nay sayers about radials and I just chuckle. Just like any other piece of equipment they require maintenance and adjustment. By the way, my saw is an older model craftsman and it saws square and true. I haven’t dated the saw, but I believe it is around 50-60 years old. I have used table saws and they have their place, but the biggest gripe I have with them is the fence. Sure, there are some pretty accurate fence systems but they are prohibitively expensive. If you want to rip large pieces you are far better off using a guide and a quality hand saw, otherwise the radial arm saw can rip out to 20” or so. Versatility. There simply is no tool in the workshop that can perform as many jobs as the radial arm saw.
Thank you. Good luck with the house build!