This Might Be The Best Way to Build a Stealth Bomber Ebike
Complete Stealth Bomber ebike build from scratch to test ride! A lot of this video is wiring, which, if you're building an ebike is what you're going to spend most of your time doing. I show how to set up a wiring panel that includes a bunch of components like the contactor, fuse box, ignition relay, and others that are often skipped on an ebike, mostly due to lack of space. I also show how to wire your switches and accessories in a way that's easy to service and assemble. Once the bike is assembled, I take it on the road and test all the different riding modes, acceleration, top speed, and regen braking.
This is a pretty long video so be sure to use the chapter to jump through the different sections!
Need help with your build? Schedule a consult.
calendly.com/gaiusgarage
Battery Build Video
• How to build a MASSIVE...
* PARTS LIST*
3D printed standoffs
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Other 3D printed parts
cults3d.com/en/users/GaiusGar...
Stealth Bomber frame
www.ebay.com/itm/314086380631...
QS205 V3 Motor
a.aliexpress.com/_mMSX4yy
Heatsinks used on hub motor
hubsink.com/products/heatsink
Sabvoton SV72200 Motor Controller
www.aliexpress.us/item/225183...
DNM Front Fork
www.aliexpress.us/item/225183...
Rear Shock (I got the 200mm but 190mm might be better)
www.aliexpress.us/item/225183...
CT-22 LCD Display
www.aliexpress.us/item/325680...
Headlight (I used two of these in parallel)
www.aliexpress.us/item/225183...
Throttle
www.amazon.com/NBPower-Limite...
Thumb Throttle (for variable regen braking)
www.amazon.com/Electric-Acces...
Handlebars (get the longest ones)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Bicycle Seat
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Contactor (this is just a link to the specific one I used - you can probably find it cheaper. I got mine on BatteryHookup.com but they are now out of stock on these)
www.ebay.com/itm/314084083696...
Fuse
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
DC-DC converter
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B...
72V Relay
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Fuse Block
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Blade Fuse Holder
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
Terminal Block (used for ground bus bar)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Switch I used for lights
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Switch I used for contactor
www.amazon.com/Zramo-Handleba...
USB Port
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
0:14 - Wiring panel intro
3:19 - Testing the wiring panel
6:19 - Placing components into the frame
7:24 - Explanation of high-voltage wiring and connectors
10:54 - Testing components and accessories
12:23 - Controller wiring harness explanation
16:04 - Phase wire harness and pass-throughs to controller
17:24 - Battery compartment stand-offs and padding
20:46 - Placing the battery pack into the frame
24:09 - Assembling the bicycle components
25:23 - Explanation of all connectors in assembled frame
29:55 - Another test of all accessories in the assembled frame
31:51 - Cleaning up the wires inside the frame
(I did not film mounting of the wheels or placing the battery pack in the assembled frame, sorrraay)
33:16 - Testing the hub motor
35:34 - One final test of everything on the assembled bike
36:00 - DONE!
36:18 - Test ride 🏍
35:46 - Eco mode 🍃
37:11 - Normal mode
37:49 - Variable regen braking
39:00 - Sport mode 🏋️
40:26 - Acceleration test 🏍🔥🔥🔥
41:27 - Top speed test 🏎
43:32 - Thanks for watching! 👍
Such a beautiful future where we can build awesome motorbikes with hella sketchy sheet. What a time.
This is one of the best E-Bike build I have seen on KZhead to date
much appreciated, sir!
Beautiful Work Brother. I love it when someone takes the time to do these builds the right way. Thanks for sharing.
@@notfiveo No it is considered an electric moped and it would need to be registered depending on the state laws you live in.
Where u find beauty here? ugly box
I agree in gender, number and grade.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the electrics in detail, will have to re-watch to take it all in :)
Love the bussbar setup top notch 🤟👽🚲🎬
Very good presentation, keep up the good work.
I love custom builds like this with all this attention to detail but i never have the patience to do all this build work.
Thank you for sharing this great project.
59mph or 95kmh top speed impresive! Thanks 4 excellent video :)
very well engineered.. goodjob
I really like the the way you fused the input and the output thats tell me that you are knowledgeable man .and that difently the right way to protect the wires from getting overload current.and the input from getting over charged ..very professional...I cant imaging big companies selling their e bikes without even an input fuse 😂 they dont have money for that but its really against the safety rules & the NEC code ..dc current can fry any thing alive is not a joke to deal with Dc
This was such a clean build, literally everything was done to make it as perfect as possible..... Well Done man. I imagine this bike as having a very high resale value and you could ask a pretty penny for it and you would get it easily.... 😮🖤🖤
Much appreciated!
Nice build you seem to be very good at this bro good job,💯👍👍⚡⚡⚡
Nicely done.
As always you are doing superb job man nice ebike I love that beautiful speedometer!!
much appreciated, sir!
Best electric bike video I’ve watched!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful
Such a clean inside. I wish I was better with electronics to make things like this and run additional LED’s.. I’m learning but very slowly. update: Ended up getting the Garmata seat with the stash box and I think I will mount my controller there. Who knows. I plan to finish my build within a year or so haha. Already burnt one motor by the phase cables getting ripped from the disc brake :( I will attempt a 3D printed cable holster that holds a washer against the swing arm to prevent any drag on both sides.. that was one thing I didn't see was how you ran your cable through the disc brake.
Hello from Germany. This bike was nicely designed. I’m not into dirt bikes, but this is sweet. I ride an ebike also built by myself.
Thank you!
Nice build!
This is so satisfying 🎉
Really helpful video, thanks man :)
Excellent explanation of wiring up a high power ebike. saved for my future build. thank you!
my pleasure!
Felt like I was having fun without even being there 😄cool man very cool
FANTASTIC! I want to thank you for the electronics crash course in the beginning -- illustrating the function of the relay and how the positive and negative current factors in. I am a COMPLETE novice and do not understand electronics (actually fear it). But with that explanation, I am beginning to understand it a bit more, despite my previous failures. Do you teach electronics or something? Anyways, excellent job and presenting it so that an idiot (like me) can understand it. (smile)
Nice build. Very interesting to watch
Thank you!
Ok, Ok, you've earned my subscription!
Happy to give the 1,000th like! Cool video thanks for making it. Looked really fun to ride. Subscribed!
haha nice!! thanks so much!
very nice job!
Wow that turned out dope! What was the build cost
Just imagine! Rear swing arm isn't a fork but a single arm on which could be mounted a larger axel and hub for larger bearing. Also brake and motor can be mounted as well. Wheel would be separate coming off with 4 bolts for extreme ease. Also Box up area under seat to max to allow for storage or even charging system while increasing seat support.
i would 100% buy this exact model. i just love how it looks. even just the frame and ill put the electronics in myself.
how much does it cost?
Bro could you please update the link for the front for and the battery what a great vid BTW
I know the bat straps should keep the bat from sliding forward and contacting the angled part of the frame, but I would put a bumper between the battery and the angled frame.
Awesome set up! It'd be worth considering if batteries and motors weren't so ridiculously expensive.
Yep you might as well buy it they cost just as much to build so why bother
Nice Elektro High Tech Bike. 😎
Very cool!!!
Dude I hope you have a shop or a brand? This was amazing to watch. You got the e transportation world locked down! Enjoy the $ my friend you deserve it. Friggin awesome!
Thank you! It's not the easiest to profit with all this but I'm working on it. Appreciate the support!
Great video! Can you do one showing and explaining the variable regeneration on the second throttle? If you covered it before, I missed it.
Thanks! the variable regen is pretty simple - there is a connector for it on the controller harness which I show in the video. just connect any throttle there, and select "e-brake" in the app/software and that throttle will operate as variable regen
@@GaiusGarage thank you
Awesome bro
23:51 were you concerned about the edges of the aluminum sheets cutting though the nylon straps? I expected you to have another set of 3D printed brackets for the top over which the straps would fit. Wonderful KZhead. Thank you for taking the time you produce this and share you creativity. Cheers!
Thank you!! Yes, I would say the aluminum wearing away at the straps is possible but given the placement, it would take a lot of use. I've put several hundred miles on this bike with no visible signs of wear but something over the top would definitely be an improvement
Exactly right, we could get in touch, I'm currently building my e-bike and need some input on your installation. Greetings lapin 👍
I wrote to you on Instagram.😊
Superb build & excellent/informative video, what was the total cost of the build & how many hours did you put into it?
Thank you! I honestly dont remember the exact cost or especially the amount of time. Cost is probably somewhere around $3k
beautiful repair on your road, in my country is barely visible wow i love merica.
what's the country with the worlds greatest road repair?
Such a sick build I'm Australian so 59mph= 94kph Which is well pass anything i could legally ride on road But i want one still!!!
I have 3/4 of my stealth bomber built and I need help finding correct everything for the front end. The shops in Florida won't help me because I didn't buy their bike from them. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. If not, your video helped me with a couple things I was unsure of.
I made my own bike whit alibaba frame and 1500w rearhubmotor kit. It had 52v lfp batterys, but it was way simpler than yours. I'm amazed how complicadet and dificult it is to make high power ebike like yours. Thanks for the good video man. I had wery similar frame, but only wires was controller plus and minus, motor connections whit hall sensors, connection to display, throtle and that was it. I tuned it up to 3000w whit difternt conroller, but is was wery simple after all. I think I am only one using lfp batterys for ebike, but they worked wery nice giving all the power all the way even battery was low.
Nice bike. You gotta be in Texas cause I am and that ride looks so familiar terrain. I have built 5 so far. Last two very similar to this one. Your's is WAY more engineered than mine are but they work and I ride everyday. Combined between the ones I still have and the ones I got tired of and sold I probably ridden over 5000 miles. My big one will do 56mph and that's some scary sh*t on back roads. ~45mph is my stable speed. mostly I just put around on the trails between 20-30.
Haha yeah the terrain is pretty unmistakable to those in the know. I've also put a ton of miles on this bike and had the same experience - 55+ is crazy, 45 is the sweet spot
If you can pick off a lower voltage - or use an additional very small dc-dc convertor - you could use a SSR instead of the contactor. Contactors do still wear out the contactor points over time, in addition to generating heat. They are a lot cheaper now too. I've seen several with 100a output for under $20.
Very good job
thank you!
So if I cut the brown cord would it go faster? As your saying
nice job ,you still have way more you can get out of that controllers and set up ,if you got the unlocked version like i did ,you can get insane speeds im using a customised crystalyte HS4065 RD motor with statorade and heat sinks ,and can quite often see the dc amps hitting 300 plus amps with phase amp sinto the 600s ,but im using a 20sx20p battery with 82 volt pack of supa capacitors in parallel ,to eliminate any V drop,
it took along time to get mine wired and installed though because i have svmc72150 on the rear and svmc7245 on the front with a 750 watt bafang internally gear hub motor ,that has a launch timer on the front motor .i also had to use a cycle analyst inside and raspberry pie that runs android main dash and secondry 5inch touch screen in top of the frame ,i get all the data from bms and 2 sabvotons and CA via a CAN bus sheild to the pie and bought a bunch of can nodes from ali express for few bucks each for all accessories and buttons etc
we also modified the rear swing arm and suspension to linkage type so can use way longer travel shock its no mounted up under the seat frame like an actual S bomber ,the battery has amazed me though its completely immersed in 3m novec dilectric fluid ,and they stay perfect temps ,dont even get warm even when charging at 50 amps,its expensive ,but worth it concidering its now fireproof
Where do you learn how to do all of this? Are you an electrician?
Audio studio engineer,and studio design.but i worked for a place called dick smith electronics while was at school and when first left school in their service deptment, i used to buuild and repair the diy electronics kits that people bought and couldnt finish or get working. But when it came to the bike i did alot of reasearch first ,and made a specific list of the functions i had to have ,and didnt deviate from thatmwhich made it alot easier
if you ever need circuit diagrams or designs ,or how to do something im always happy to help as im retired now, had to retired early when had a stroke cpl years ago,but im ok now ,but im not going back to work
Nice build. Awesome video really! Whats it like going uphills though? I heard another another guy saying his clone bomber aint so good at uphills ESPECIALLY from dead stop he can hear the hub motor struggling. He has a 72v 12000w
Thank you! Maybe an issue with motor programming or insufficient battery with the other guy but this bike rips uphill. In fact, I've have never found a grade that even makes a noticeable difference
I am running a 72v 5000w 5T motor and mine rips up hill at 45 mph, 50-55mph flat ground.. the other guy must have something wrong cause from dead stop up a hilll, I have mad torque.
@@alexchavosaurus9041He's probably super obese 😅
I love it. I am Dutch so i seen many bikes and almost all of them are boring af. I want 1 to
That’s a nice motorcycle, definitely not an ebike at that speed. Would recommend putting turn signals on it too. Crazy how that feature isn’t more common on ebikes.
its more of a motorbikle. Ive never actually used a turn signal on a motorcycle in earnest. prefer hand signals (pointing) if necessary or the best turn signal of all: acceleration
@@GaiusGarage pretty much the reply I expected from someone going 55 in a residential area. Lol
@@Starr3712yeah well u cant expect much from someone doing 60 while wearing nothing but a ''crop top'' 😂
Yes this thing is awesome I want one what would you say the total cost of this would be and were to get everything if you don't mind me asking
Thank you! links to all the components are in the description. cost is anywhere between $2.5k - $4k largely depending on the battery pack and whether or not you build it yourself
Really nice work on this as well as the e-KLX.... Do you build battery cases with the plastic print machine? I would be interested in building a battery case as the case I bought is "mm's" too small. Think about renting the machine as UPS does except you know how to work the machine. I would send the case if you could print the additions/new size... really would not like to chop this thing up.. I think you can build the additions into the case... let me know... thanks!!
I may be able to help - sounds like you just need me to print some 3D models for you - but I would really need to understand the details better. Please book a Calendly session here: calendly.com/gaiusgarage/15-minute-consult its $25 but if I cant help, I will refund the cost
approx how much did this build cost?
Bro can you give what brand of converter the one that connects to your power supply
for DC-DC converter link is in the description
Great job Man! quick question any schematic or drawing of that panel? And what gauge are the wires on the relay socket? Everything I see online is 14 and 18 awg ...not suited for 72v....
voltage is not relevant for wire gauge, only current matters. voltage plays a role in arcing so proper insulation is needed for high voltage wires but 72V is relatively low and the insulation is more than sufficient. I didn't make a schematic for that panel
Ok you are smart man 🎉😢 that a good knowledge to know
thank you!
do you rember/have the battery compartment dimensions? i ordered the frame and motor but i'm building the battery myself (not the first one) and it would be pretty usefull to me to know the max width of the battery, i want to make a pack with 21700 but i don't know if they will fit. probably the battery will be 145/150mm wide
I have the dimensions in the full build video for that battery pack here: kzhead.info/sun/hLGKicqjaYSBp40/bejne.html
Crazy build. What tires and brakes are you running? If those are off the shelf enduro bike parts I don’t think they’re built for braking at 60mph.
these are dirtbike/motorcycle wheels and tires so good for high speed. brakes are downhill MTB breaks which are also very capable but pads do need to be replaced more often
This is a motorcycle. Ebike has left the chat.
motorbykle
Nope. Motorcycle. Bicycle has pedals
Hey it has pedals
@@GaiusGarage Cute, but no. You have to put a chain around front sprocket, and loop it on a dead tensioner sprocket. Otherwise police will know it's not a bicycle. Then read your local laws, and if asked, NEVER say it can go faster than speed restriction.
@@aleksandrbmelnikov😮... Massive belly in frame tho?? Your insulting officers intelligence... Cops probably take it and use for off road pursuits 😅😅...
An in-line hydraulic pressure switch. Do internal (rear) brake line routing to hide the T-fitting and switch.
It might be good to create a distance between the red connector and the grounds. After some years of shaking the plastic on the red connector might be damaged creating a short circuit.
Reminds me of an old tv show with a highly modified attack motorcycle called streethawk I used to watch as a boy might be something you will like ...
I just spec'd mine out with china.: 72v 8000w 40ah 100a controller, red frame, gold rims, headlights and brake lights, hydraulic brakes, 203mm 4 piston, zoom front and kke back suspension, motorcycle seat, alarm, color display, 19 inch turtle tires. 2100 delivered
Was it legit, kinda scared of ordering one already built from China and how long did it take to come in?
Can you give me an ipdate
Those are all pieces of "cheap" crap😅
With bikes that go over 30mph do you have to think about wheel balancing the same with regular tires ? Surely at 70mph you get a vibration / wobble?
ideally they would be balanced but they would have to be pretty badly unbalanced to feel vibration. the more challenging part actually is truing these spoked wheels, especially the rest with the hub motor. wheels that are not perfectly trued contribute most to wobble and vibration
Awesome Video!!! Did you just straight plug the controller in or did you program it? Because on mine the regenbreaking is not working for some reason.
I programmed it but didn't film that part. if you have a throttle connected to the regen throttle harness (make sure gnd, 5V, & signal wires are correctly oriented), you need to enable the "e-brake" option. then make sure you have the ebrake current option set high enough to make a difference. on mine it was initially set too low to notice. there's also the non-variable regen, which activates when you let off the throttle. for that you have to keep the "ebrake" setting off and set the regen option to one of the three settings depending on what behavior you prefer.
range at different speeds? also battery specs, but maybe you made a video constructing the battery?
I didn't test range at different speeds, but the battery build video is here: kzhead.info/sun/hLGKicqjaYSBp40/bejne.htmlsi=tHroFKF4LDX80Kyz
Nice video. Very good information. Question? What headset size did you use and brand?
thank you! I actually have no idea about the headset size. kind of a set it & forget it thing for me
You should first read the manual for ct-22 then you'll find out bout the two power lines required plus there isn't a signal light for brk-sw (only turn, regular light signals plus 3 speed mode). memory line keep some setting otherwise you always have to readjust which is annoying. There are couples of forums availabe that might come handy with all the parameters to set them up accurate for the speedo. Do you also have a heat shield against sunlight for your battery inside that frame? What are the specs of the battery pack? Have you made a circiut diagram for all the wiring?
The nom was 82? It looked like a 23s ?
Amazing 🤩 How did you paint your frame?
thanks! nothing fancy - just matte black spray paint
I haven't had time to read through all the comment but well done on your project it's very well thought out , I don't know if anybody but can you post a list of links of these items please , I have the same frame with the 200A 72v I'm wanting to set up , cheers and thanks again
I have an 8000 w hub for that controller
Appreciate it! I have list to all the parts in the video description
This is greatt! How how I need this ?!
@Gaius Garage Hello there mate. I am building a similar ebike, but that circuit board that you showed in the first part in that video is a bit confusing. Care to give a bit more detail? Me and a friend have been gazing on what you did there, and the more we tried to figure it out, the more questions appeared. First, we looked at the datasheet for those relays. It says that max switching voltage is 75V. Let's assume that I looked at a datasheet for a different relay than the one you have used, but care to provide a datasheet for yours? You ran 84V through that thing... how is it not smoking? Secondly, how is that key switch not caught on fire? Are you running the mains power through it? The full 84V? I didn't think these key switches could handle this much amperage, even ChatGPT agrees with me here: "The amperage through the ignition key switch is typically in the range of a few milliamperes (mA) to a few amperes (A). It is not uncommon for it to be around 5-10 amperes during the brief moment when the key is turned to the "Start" position to engage the starter relay. The actual high current required to crank the engine is drawn directly from the battery and flows through heavy-duty cables and the starter motor itself. This current can be in the range of 100-300 amperes, depending on the size and type of the engine." Can you update the description of the video and send a link to it. I wanna see what key switch you are using, although I feel like it's just a standard one. If you can, please make another video on how you make this board maybe? My electrician buddy was looking at this saying "that's sketchy, how is he not dead?" Thank you so much for the video. Please continue making more Electric moto vids in the future!
Yeah that relay shows 75V on the datasheet but is also indicates that the maximum working voltage for the coil is up to 130% of the rated voltage, which is about 93V. so 84V is not an issue, at least for the coil. overvolting these components isn't an exact science (I mean it is, but you don't always have to treat it like one) - some components that are more sensitive will burn right away but more often than not it will just lessen the lifespan of the component and you may have to replace the relay sooner rather than later. In terms of current through the key switch, that circuit is only used to power the relay.. it's the whole point of using relays, so you can control higher current circuits using something like a flimsy key switch. The relay draws 1.8W which, at ~80V, resolves to about 20mA. That's super low and not an issue at all for the key switch. Voltage doesn't matter (as long as it's below several hundred volts where arcing becomes an issue), only the current is relevant. I don't have a link to the key switch, it's just a generic one that came with the frame. I actually don't have this panel anymore because I sold it with the bike but I can help you put one together if you have questions. Just hmu on Instagram @gaiusgarage
Cool!!!!
is there a wiring diagram somewhere or could you please share it?
What is the range?
thats a nice looking bike, what brand and model is it?
Hope one day it's possible to build a weather proof version which can be used also in rain and snow.
its definitely possible with a bit more effort, I just didn't bother since I typically wouldn't be riding in those conditions
Man I'm good with this kind of stuff, built many batteries and bikes, but this is complicated...I'd need some help with that..Nice job, that thing came out sweet...Won't have to use your mechanical, hydraulic brakes much...Watch out for dogs in that neighborhood, don't ask, I'm sure you can use your imagination...Lets just say I drive a lil slower through my neighborhood these days...
Great. It seems though that some wires and connectiors are exposed to water from riding in the wet.
yeah.. not really a waterproof situation here. but only thing worse than wires getting wet, is riding this thing in the rain
magnetic reed switch for brake lights ?
shouldn't the fuse be first on the board on the black end of the circuit since, electrons flow from the negative?
you are correct that actual electron flow is from negative to positive but the actual flow of electrons through the wire (called drift velocity) is actually quite slow, only less than 1mm/s. thus, electron flow is not the mechanism by which the actual transfer of energy occurs, rather it's via electromagnetic flux at the speed of light. so its a bit of a misconception to imagine that you must place the fuse "toward the source" of the electron flow, as if electrons are flowing like water in a pipe. there are several reasons why the fuse is placed on the positive side closest to the source. In AC circuits, the live wire is more dangerous than the neutral wire because the live wire is at a higher voltage relative to ground. If a fault occurs, you want the live wire to be disconnected. Placing the fuse on the live wire ensures this. A similar circumstance happens in DC circuit where the negative terminal is serves as a reference to ground. Placing a fuse on the negative side in such circuits could still leave the circuit's positive side live with respect to ground even if the fuse blows, which might pose a safety risk in certain scenarios.
@@GaiusGarage thank you for such a comprehensive explanation. So the flux in the fields would be why sections of the circuit further “down the line” but physically closer to the source would energize sooner than other sections in the order of the path of the circuit but physically further from the source? And if the fault happened in between these two places, would that be an example scenario where the positive end could still be live?
@@Kryso_0 yes, that is generally correct. all parts of the circuit energize pretty much instantaneously since energy flux travels at the speed of light. but recall voltage is a measure of electric potential difference between two points. you can measure any two points in space, regardless of whether they are part of a circuit or not, and if there is a difference in coulombs of charge, there will be some measurable voltage, no matter how small. this does not change if there is a fault in a circuit, the positive terminal will still have the same potential with respect to ground, whether or not the circuit is complete or broken. placing a fuse upstream of all the components in the circuit on the positive side will mean that, when the fuse blows, all components will be taken to ground and will have a 0V potential with respect to ground. In contrast, if the fuse is placed closest to the negative terminal, when it blows, all components will be taken to positive battery terminal and will still have the battery voltage potential, with respect to ground. in the former, a blown fuse means the system has no electric potential. in the latter, a blown fuse means the current flow is interrupted, but the voltage potential remains unchanged
I did a similar install but with an 80A MCB instead of a contactor and the same DC converter. With how difficult DC is to switch, I feel like the contactor isn't actually necessary and ends up being a large extra component with higher power bikes. I do wonder if it's perfectly adequate to isolate the battery supply on and off using the BMS, since mine has a function to do that.
⁸😊
1:57 what nuts did you use to hold your board up in the frame. Im trying to do something similar.
I think it would be cool for this bike to have kind of a neutral "gear" when the regenerative braking is off, so you can coast a little bit without slowing down. The way I see it, it can be kind of like a middle position of the throttle: the normal position is the regen brake, in the middle is neutral (motor and regen brake are off), and when you turn the throttle further it engages the motor. Don't know if someone did it or if it's a good idea at all %)
The regen is actually variable and on a separate thumb throttle. So if the regen throttle is not engaged, the bike coasts without any regen
@@GaiusGarage varibale regen is my most favorite feature ever since hydraulic brakes now when your rolling down a hill you can just ride the regen instead of burning brake pads id love someone like grinn technologies to make a version of there tripwire ebrake sensors that return a analogue value so you could use the reach adjust on hydro brakes to run regen so instead of having say a inch of play or deadzone on the brake levers before your hydros engage you could use that deadzone to activate the regen that way you pull lightly on the brakes and it engages the regen more pull is more regen then it moves to full regen just before the top of your brakes then if you need to stop in a hurry you can just pull hard and go straight through to your hydro brakes
what did it full cost with battery and all?
You made this ebike zoomin
What is the make and model of the battery simulator you are using? That would be very handy for bench top testing.
That's just a generic server power supply connected to a step-up converter. Any combo of the two will work. the power supply outputs 50V which is stepped up to 72V
What about weatherproofing the electric parts ?
there are different gradation of waterproofing given by the Ingress Protection (IP) ratings. The controller and motor are IP7 (which is very high) but it would take a ton of work to achieve this level DIY. Id say the frame is IP3 or IP4. Ive ridden this bike in the rain many times without issues. but generally speaking, this is not meant to be a ridden in good weather and/or dirt/mud but youre not going to be crossing any rivers on this thing
What app are you running to get the realtime specs? is it part of the display or sabvoton controller?
its actually the app for the BMS. its Ant BMS - but the later models use a newer app that doesnt have the voltage and current dials and graphs..sucks
Another question maybe you would know, I am purchasing a motor with an 80amp current limit. I want to build my own battery and was looking for recommendations. My motor is 72 volts 3000 watts. Please help!
Sorry, it is a motor controller with an 80 amp current limit
This bike had a lot of juice left after all the tests is there a mileage video coming? ty
Thanks! I sold this bike actually so no follow up video but the range was around 50mi
@@GaiusGarageDang, I was hoping for another lessons learned/follow up.
@@jaredlarson2810not much I would do differently here - maybe improve some of the pass throughs for better waterproofing but overall this is a really good return on effort
In sport mode what would you say the range is on this bike?
If you're riding very aggressively at 45-55mph the range is 25-30mi
What's the EMF radiation side effects like?
not much on this bike, but I do have some issues with it on my other build due to not using shielded wire looms and wrapping everything together
For your wire connectors and your multi wire connectors they're so bulky you should look into the aircraft industry and the yachting or houseboat industry and you'll find what you're looking for there in a higher quality unit
Whats the ride, handling, cornering like, esp' when your running road tyres? Approx total cost in parts? Ta.
handles ok.. could use better suspension. also this frame geometry is pretty basic but good enough. dont remember the cost in parst..~$2k probably
@@GaiusGarage How mush does it weigh?
Thinking about building one, basically a 'chook chaser' e motor-cycle or getting a 125 or 250 road bike and converting it to xafe racer style bike. I currently have a 750W 48V 15 AHr e bike i put together. After better road manners, more confortable, higher speed and range, and the next level of technology and quality. The plus side of your bike is its a kit basically and i esp' like the switchgear and dash integration. I really want standard integrated switchgear for a motorcycle and not a suillion add on buttons for each feature. I think your bike does this pretty well. If i bough a 125 or 250 rolling chasis i would want this, the switchfear and dash integration, the rolling chassis would be fine, rear hub solves the motor, just battery, controller and a bun of witing. A small fairing for better aero and wind / rain protection would be high on the list of wants. And if i can do either for arounf 2k then that sounds pretty good. Also might want more of a motorcycle dirt bike seat rather thena bicycle seat and box that area under the seat for battery, controller, storage or whatever make sense. Easy enoug to do, with angle bent alu sheet like the frame. Thanks for your video and hep. Much appreciated. @@GaiusGarage
Of course i would hve to add a set of crank to the e cafe route, which adds to the complexity and cost of the build, perhaps needing a welder etc. But your basic idea bike would be good, perhaaps with more adventure of road based geometery and a smallisg faring. @@GaiusGarage
How many working day say at 8 hours a days did it take you to build it. As you note it looks like the wiring is the main chore, and has to be done to a reasonable standard. Ta.
No high/low beam headlights?