How to Move a Fuse Board - The Easy Way | Wiska Consumer Unit Relocation Kit
The Wiska consumer unit relocation kit is a junction box designed to make moving a fuse box or consumer unit simple. The unit comprises a Wiska 818 junction box, and Wago Top Job S Din rails terminals.
Electricians often need to relocate an existing fuse board to a new location within a house. The new consumer unit may need a larger area, or a house may be having major alterations. Either way, the existing fuse board location won't work, meaning existing cables need to be extended.
With this Wiska kit, the easily identifiable Wago screwless din rail terminals make wiring alterations safe and easy.
In this video, we share out tips for consumer unit relocation and how we use the Wiska Consumer Unit Relocation Kit.
😀 Remember, Wago Topjob is pronounced Vargo Topjob
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Wiska 818 Consumer Unit relocation kit
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🕐 TIME STAMPS 🕕
00:00 Consumer unit relocations
01:30 Identifying cables and conductors
04:30 Removing old consumer unit
05:12 Wiska Consumer unit relocation junction box
07:00 Cable entry positions
08:00 Cutting rear entry with multi-tool
09:00 Mounting the junction box
11:23 Current ratings and conductor sizes
12:02 Connecting into a Wago TOPJOB
12:37 Removing a conductor from a Wago TOPJOB
13:25 Number identification..?
14:10 What to do with the bonding conductors
15:16 Outgoing circuits
16:31 Circuit chart & identification
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#efixx #electricians #wiska
Wiska 818 Consumer Unit relocation kit hub.efixx.co.uk/wiska-818
@@gadgetman36 may be non combustible?
Specs say polycarbonate so I doubt it’s non combustible, but I’d say a similar enclosure is more for DB/CU carcasses with the likes of contactors and metering equipment inside.
Would it need any kind of intumescent seal where the old cable exit through the plaster board void into the box?
@@rp8068 I’d be heavily inclined to.
Hint for the lines on the Wires: I usually use a thick Line to indicate 5 Lines, to make counting easier (4 same sized lines is the upper limit of what you can easily count at a glance. but 7 Lines could easily be confused for 6 and the other way around). It looks like this (up to 15): ▎ ▎▎ ▎▎▎ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ ▎ █ ▎▎ █ ▎▎▎ █ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ █ █ ▎ █ █ ▎▎ █ █ ▎▎▎ █ █ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ █
That’s a good idea may have to give it a try
I will tell Rick 👍🏻
Good idea, I'm having it!
Great tally replacement :-)
I tend to use one along the length of the cable rather than a thick line.
Never used this one before but always had it in mind. A few other similar pieces of kit out there but this seems really well thought out and simple. Great video guys 👍
Thanks
I recently found this channel and i'm really pleased with the quality! Thank you guys :) Ahh finally someone who pronounces Wago the right way!
Going to install one this week. Quality install by Rick w/ the usual excellent thought provoking commentary by Gaz. Now to head over to my Man, Mr Robinson, for the icing on the cake. Keep it up please- the good work, that is.
I love these din rail terminal blocks. I've just ordered some and looking forward to using them.
Brilliant for an installer, makes life a hell of a lot easier for sure.. I made my own one with din terminals a little while back to extend couple of ring main circuits. Downside will be its ugly and customers will not like a grey box housed on a wall in a hall way or lounge. Perfect for understair cupboards or housed in boxing in. 👍
Wherever it is, it will probably be less obtrusive than the CU it's replacing!
Good to see a plastic din rail. Had a few condition reports when boards have being change just to find cpc with low readings due to metal din rail nice job and well done
The problem is that the grounded earth/saved earth was in the history one point for all together. It was never a problem to bonding it together till we create RCD's. I wonder why Wago not produce yellow-green products same the gray or blue in plastic only. A plastic DIN-Rail is a wonderful solution but IMHO not a correct way. I self would let in this parts how I use only, empty Wagos looks like something forgotten here. Do you can buy numbers for the Wagos so count it 1,2,3,4, aso. Then the table looks exact correct - nobody know the next electrician put it under or left and right. The only problem are the UK fire rating where do you should seal the hole. I am unhappy that CU should be metal for fire safety but here plastic is okay. Do you have crazy regulations in UK. Just a hint! 🤔🤑
I would have thougt that a non bonded version of the DIN rail connector would be available in earth colours.
If you struggle to find the Wago range, Phoenix Contact make the same and I use the pre-printed circuit identifier label that clip in just under the small squares which are used with bridging combs to common up terminals. You could also mention the test point just above those squares. I use these extensively when building control panels, they are great.
Yeah, the products are equal - but Wago offer different sizes same Phoenix Contact. They offer 1to2 terminals too - so you can put a ring to this box and use one line to CU only. I think for more as 4 mm² (specially more as 10 mm²) is this a better solution. BTW: For testing are the holes - the red square are for put together more as one product with special nuts. 😉
Got a board change tomorrow morning, I’m going to use a sharpie to number the line conductors. I usually flag lines with insulation tape, its a nuisance if a tape breaks off whilst removing the old board👍👍
Lovin the fully insulated gloves :)
This is gorgeous, thanks for great work.
Those are great bits of kit, especially the ones with the lever Wago connections on the lower side. If I were to criticise one thing though compared to the previous box - I personally would have installed washers with the fixing screws to reduce any chance of the screw being pulled through if it bets bumped but other than that it was a flawless install!! Maybe i'd have left the wires a little longer too but that's just down to personal choice...👍
Never used 1 before and just about to hope it goes as easy as on this video but looks great
You can extend a main equipotential protective bonding conductor if you use a crimp connection. Same would apply to the earthing conductor
Seeing this reminds me of the one Artisan did awhile back where they took radials from the new CU to one of these boxes where the rings where. Thankfully labelled up to test in future from the Wiska CURK. That said I feel like unless you can get 2 separate din rails top and bottom in there it's not actually big enough for most properties, not to mention if you have to size down for fine stranded conductors, wouldn't you just ferule them? Yes you can join the protective bonding conductor, it's just down to jointing method, my preferred methods are crimping or brazing. If you could run a new cable that would be preferred but cost and accessibility are the limiting factors.
😂😂😂 Never did I think you’d mention 2pac and Elton John…. Fair play I love the videos. 👍👍
If I can remember rightly there is something in GN8 about main protective bonding conductors needing to be unbroken. But I'm sure somewhere in the Regs it contradicts that by an exemption if using MF connection or appropriate compression joint and it also being accessible for inspection.
Would it make more sense to prep the enclosure with the new cabling in the connectors before offering it up? Makes it a lot easier to handle the cables rather than working with it in situ. Obviously it depends on the installation and where those cables run to after the trunking
I’ve used the other version, and found it a bit cramped. This one looks much better.
Great video the Wago box looks a brilliant idea, why is it not regs to be made of metal
Good detailed video!
Massive thanks 👍🏻
Great video..
Thanks Nigel 👍🏻
need to get access to this stuff down under
Very neat work. only thing I would change is to have 7 round hole's at top of box as to the slot.
Nice 👌🏼
Good job .
Spot on save you having to make one up from scratch
I have been making these for years using an adaptable box and Klippon terminals.
I would use a crimp connector with a bit of heat shink for extending a bonding conductor so it can be said to be permanent.
Are these extension boxes used in a set-and-forget manner, or does one to have check the connections as part of e.g. an eicr?
I will never forget having this to do back in the 90's at FATTY TOWERS CLIFTONVILLE; - Buster ...or Doug wanted me to re-connect all of the crumbly old LEAD CASED CABLE to the original Wooden fusebox which I was to re-fit on the outside of the particular bathroom... he wanted me to send back all the cable + fuse-boards which his manager had let me order previously, - said that by ripping out old lead cables I was making work for myself..... I ended up moving back to Crete, - apparently he could not find the kind of 'electrician' that he wanted Anywhere ...ended up having to sell the place....
Excelente
I do put numbered sleeves on the wires when reconnecting with a schedule sticker
👍🏻
Any regulatory reason why the Wagos are in LNE sequence rather than LEN which would match the T+E cables? Other than that, as long as cable bunching as part of the relocation doesn't open its own can of worms they look like a good piece of kit. I expect that high IP rating would also come in handy to correct some of the more controversial installs seen on KZhead, where for example a room's been turned into a bathroom but the CU's still in there, just behind a panel.
Can I use this to extend 3phase circuits for a 3 phase board relocation. As the circuits are not long enough for the new board?
Are those meter tails in the consumer unit isolated from the main switch or would they still be livd even after isolating the main switch in the CU?
As you open it up I'm thinking should this Wiska 818 enclosure be made of metal?
What cable strippers being used? Thanks
If the bonding conductor isn't needed, as the water pipe is plastic. Should the bonding conductor itself be connected to earth as I becomes an extraneous conductive part itself?
I would love it if these kits were ULc or CSA listed like the wago connectors are.
Interesting decision. Never seen anything like it.
Are these relocation boxes maintenance free so they can be hidden in the ceiling? Or would I be better to use MF junction boxes on all the circuits maybe?
As the regs require the consumer unit to be metal, surely that box should be metal as well? It has all the same circuits and twice as many terminations inside, and must represent a key risk area.
No breakers though ... Apparently the "source" of most CU fires by all accounts ... How ironic is that! Duh! Kind of makes my point that I have repeated ad nauseam for years ... Fit a disconnect temp sensor INSIDE the CU. Plastic needs a source of extreme heat (>200°C) to ignite. Remove the source of overheating LONG before it reaches that 200 plus temp (say 75°C) and PREVENT a fire from ever starting in the first place! None so blind as those who will not see!!
Interesting that in the UK everything needs to be metal and earthed. In Germany it's not required and most consumer units are isolated and also mostly plastic boxes.
@@scwfan08 Maybe German installers have a history of better installation work. We have a history of fires started by consumer units, mostly I think down to poorly made connections. Probably the same reason arc fault detectors are now bring introduced.
@@scwfan08 every system in whatever country you’re in, must be earthed
@@daron8982 Not if it's protection class 2 which most consumer units are here
When relocating like this obviously at some point cable calcs were measured and correction factors applied so does this matter now that you have chabged this over an placed all that cable in one trunking? surely you are changing the way the cables are now run so there may be a concern with the cooker cable for instance? I know it will depend on the run to the new board also but please explain thx
All well and good but what about when the main tails are now to short too
Great idea but if for instance this is located under the wooden staircase with it being plastic what’s the difference between a pvc fuse board and a pvc junction box????
While the regs do not demand that this sort of enclosure be made of metal wouldn't it be better? It doesn't make sense to me to for a plastic consumer unit to be replaced with a plastic DIN rail enclosure considering the amount of connections.
Absolutely agree with you.
Stop taking life so seriously!!
@@allsystemsdownagain9553 start taking your job more seriously
Hi Guys. Do you undertake domestic installation jobs in Southampton area? Thanks
Do your regs have anything to say about raceway overfill?
I confeus (You removed the all breakers ) you tell clear .. This is a breaker? If are shot circuit .so ther cut off my indoor spley ?
Hello, I have a quick question about the regs, I am thinking of having the consumer unit modernized but would it be possible to place an isolator switch between it and the mains? As this would make it much safer to work on it afterwards.
Yes
A REC isolator is what you're looking for. Despite REC standing for Regional Electricity Company they're not the sole supplier of them; even Screwfix do them (part 321FR). There are also 3- or 4-pole versions available for polyphase or Economy 7 installations. They also make it easier if the tails to the new consumer unit would need to be extended, as the existing tails can simply be brought into the isolator and new tails run from there to the new board. No opening of the meter cover, no tripping of the meter cover tamper switch.
Many CU's contain a double pole isolator. You don't necessarily need a separate one.
I would suggest some of those adhesive cable markers rolls for numbering, or at least use an X for 5 if using the line marking method,-save the headache of counting the damn things at the end..
I will tell Rick 👍🏻
10y ago I had to swap my CU. I built the new CU on a bit of 18mm ply and mounted a DIN box next to it on the on the ply and wired the two on the Kitchen table. Was very easy. Then mounted on the wall as one unit and terminated the cable runs in to the din box All very neat. All very well labelled. All safe. All easy to maintain. Several reasons I did this. But afterwards I wondered why everyone doesn’t do this ? Space I suppose 🤷♂️ but it didn’t take too much more space.
Hi What label printer do you use to create the board schedule?
I'm guessing the reason for replacing the consumer unit is the lack of spare ways and only type ac rcds? I notice the breakers are a different make.
whats wromg? crabtree and wlex breakers in the same board bus bar missing dual rcd i have used onr of these in my own house and used the brother label printer with heat shrink lables to idernify the circuits at both ends should I ever sell thje property or other electrical work is required both ends have been identified. An epensive bit of kit when its possible to replicate for a cheaper price.
Good init.
What if you have to bring the tails through also and they were too short and the main earthing conductor but you were using the larger connections for cooker and shower
Is the Neutral switched at the main Switch ? Illegal here i NZ & Aus
Please let me know the difference between a bad joint causing a fire in a plastic juntion box and a plastic fuse board. Causing the same problem. Would it be beter to use a metal enclosure for the juntion box.
Consumer units contain MCBs, RCDs etc which create heat as part of there operation.
@@efixxA high resistant joint could also cause fires in a plastic enclosure. A metal enclosure would stop the of such a problem.
While this looks a nice idea, it's really only going to be useful for moving smaller or older boards that don't have too many circuits on. Given that RFCs take up two sets, it doesn't have to have many before there are not enough connections. (Yes you could mount two side by side but then the original cables likely won't reach into both) I've just relocated a standard 10 way Dual RCD board from a hallway to a cupboard for aesthetic purposes, and this would not have been adequate (3 x RFC, Oven, Shed, 3 x lighting circuits) even though the original board had two unused ways. Hopefully in time suppliers will stock wider boxes and let you mix and match the connectors to suit.
im pretty sure they have different sizes of the relocation kit
No reason you can't just buy the individual TOPJOB blocks and any size adaptable box with appropriate DIN rail - just a prebuilt kit of that at the end of the day
@@intercity125 just make sure you get a plastic din rail and/or use grey blocks for the earths.
Panel wiring termination blocks ,was wiring them on naval ships 30 years ago ,cables were all black and we had to tag them with number sleeves ,house wiring is nothing compared to ships control wiring systems ,440v,240v,115v
That'll be why at least one royal navy ship needed a major electrical system overhaul last year, after a number of faults causing fires and phantom crossed phases. (Not really sure if I'm allowed to say which one)
They are ok, can't imagine a customer being too happy with one of those stuck in the middle of a hall or lounge wall, I always use a through crimp when joining a bonding conductor, I have seen people use a big connector or even an earth clamp chucked under the kitchen units.
Agreed a flush version would go along way.
Even so, it's not going to look any worse than the CU that it's replacing.
@@Rosscoff2000 yeah it is
Usually the tails and main cpc come through with circuits so they would have to be extended but no room. The middle blocks would be used for shower and cooker.
the new board you installed for this installation was it metallic if so why not a metallic enclosure for the wagos almost as many terminations with a chance to go wrong
It doesn’t contain any circuit breakers etc so doesn’t need to be metal.
Majority of customers want the CU moving because they don't want an ugly box on the wall in that position though.
What happened to the mains tails and main earth? Do we assume theses went into service blocks below? (Sorry if I missed this).
I asked the same question, usually the tails come through with the rest of the circuits and the main earthing conductor. Also you would normally have a shower circuit and a cooker circuit so I'm guessing you would have to through crimp the tails and main earth if you couldn't pull new ones through from outside and they would have to come over the top of the wagos as there isn't room down the side
Top
What is the maximum length you can extend a consumer unit ? Thank you
All down to the circuit design for volt drop.
IF you relocate a metal consumer unit, would you be required to use a metal junction box?
Metal consumer units came in with 18th edition amendment 3. I have checked the IET portal on what it says are the changes between 17th edition and 18th edition and I can find no reference to metal junction boxes. However, it is possible under Chapter 14 and Appendix 13 which is to do with fire safety and protected escape routes that plastic junction boxes may be prohibited from protected escape routes, as they are combustible. You'll have to check.
As you've mentioned in an eFIXX video back in April 2021, regulation 421.1.201 in BS7671 (17th) states that "Within domestic (household) premises, consumer units and similar switchgear assemblies shall comply with BS EN 61439-3 and shall: 1) Have their enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material, or 2) Be enclosed in a cabinet or enclosure constructed of non-combustible material and complying with Regulation 132.12 Note: Ferrous metal, e.g. steel, is deemed to be an example of a non-combustible material." For the purpose of the regulations, does the Wiska 818 consumer unit relocation kit not come under the classification of "similar switchgear assemblies"?
Hmmm... interesting. But I guess is not a switchgear assembly. Its a junction box. That is how I read it.
@@zoltrix7779 I should start by pointing out that I'm not an electrician by trade. To me it seems that in order to understand the regulation it helps to consider exactly why it exists and how there might be a difference in risk. I believe the following are the main drivers for this regulation specifically targeting plastic consumer units: 1) Consumer units in the UK are typically located in hidden areas (Under the stairs) or fire escape routes (By the front door, a hallway or under the stairs). 2) The risk from a large number of screw terminals (I.e. Not maintenance free). 3) The presence of particularly high currents in comparison to other locations. (80/100A for meter tails / bus bar, shower / cooker supplies) 4) The presence of MCBs which have to break high fault currents. I'm not entirely sure if all of these are drivers for this particular regulation, nor am I sure exactly what ordering they would be given or if I've missed any. Consumer unit relocation kits would appear to me to suffer from a couple of these risks: 1) They are typically used to relocate a consumer unit from an older traditional location and therefore remain located in these higher risk areas. 3) Not quite the same risk as the supply doesn't pass through this, but there are typically still going to be some high current circuits. #2 is not relevant for this Wiska 818 as maintenance free terminals are used, but if regular screw terminals were used then it would also apply #4 is not relevant for relocation It's an interesting point you make about it being a junction box, where do you draw the line? Is this a special case due to its location and higher currents?
@@yngndrw. I don't disagree with your points. It would probably be better for the regulation to cover this scenario specifically. The electrician really, should not have to understand why a regulation is what it is (even though, in practice, they do understand why most regulations are what they are for due to training), just follow it to the letter, or at the very least, to the best of their ability. I don't think it is clear enough to expect an electrician to use a metal enclosure. However, I am sure many would choose to do so, just to be on the safe side.
The connections in the junction box are simple through connections. In a consumer unit you are distributing power from higher current terminals to lower current ones.
@@efixx Interesting point but where do you stop, would a spur off a socket on an RFC come under the metal enclosure requirement as there is switching and higher to lower current circuits?
What is that wire stripper by the way?
If the run between this and the new CU location was entirely through trunking I'd be tempted to use singles for the extensions, just that little bit easier to handle than T&E. Is there any reason in regulations not to?
It may be easier to handle in one aspect, but on the other, imagine replacing that consumer unit some time, let alone going from not to an RCBO board… that would be an utter nightmare. Having the wires of the various circuits physically grouped is something that makes things a lot easier to handle.
Thanks for adding your thoughts 👍🏻
I think you could only use singles if the trunking can only be opened with a tool rather than just fingers
@@andrewchilcott5312 No, I don't think so. 416.2.4 is about the use of a tool to remove part of an enclosure providing protection. It's to do with preventing electric shock risk, by people, even children opening up an enclosure where there are live terminals or joints inside. When you run PVC singles in conduit, the conduit is providing mechanical protection and there is no possibility of getting at any live parts unless the person cuts through the PVC single, but that then is a very deliberate act. If however, you joint a PVC single in a conduit then that's a different matter. But ideally you wouldn't do that anyway.
Moving a fuse box but still you left big box on the wall any different idea to no live a electric art in a middle of the wall?
the tupac reference lol
Are there alternatives on the UK?
Lovely grouping factor all in 50x50 trunking 😂
Wiska is only for 10 way board but what about if you want to move 20 way board or 3 phase pannel 30-35 circuits ????🤔🤔🤔 you will need a bigger wiska
or several?
There are plenty of larger alternatives from different manufacturers readily available.
I expect the reason for the unit not being metal is that unless connected via flylead to a CPC or the equipotential bond, how would the case be earthed? I‘m surprised the rear entry cuts were not filed-down then intumescantly sealed as well as the mounting screws without washers. Surely the TopJobs should be LEN rather than LNE, as PVC PVC twin and CPC cable is in such an order. Will have to read the item specs online to determine if MF.
Just called Wiska UK - they confirmed the unit is MF and can be mounted behind plasterboard etc.
What about the other leg of 16mm CPC ?
I saw an old electrician fit 14, black round 30 amp junction boxes instead of a whisker box. Just to save a bit of money I would have thought.
Must look funny. Under the stairs isn't it a problem. 😆🙄
You've really got your money's worth out of those gloves!! 🤣
Those are extra tactile gloves.
👍👍👍👍👍
Messed that hole up
Great video, as usual. This WAGO box is too small for larger installations and is not visually pleasant in domestic Hallways.
SHOULD THE EXTENSION BOX ALSO BE METAL?
kzhead.info/sun/eJapZb6SgYCmZmg/bejne.html
Surely two of those neutral connections in the board had to much conductor exposed ?
Can we crowd fund Rick some new gloves 🧤 😂
😂
I've ripped so many of those old wylex boards off the wall
Nice... couldnt you have been 2 Weeks earlier 😅
Manufacture an entry point?
I wonder why the live connector isn't brown? TIA
It uses old color code with red for live and black for neutral
You marked up the cables with lines to indicate where they go, but then snipped off the part with the lines. I guess a scrap off paper was off camera noting which cable was going where.
Is there a reason why the live is grey?
This are normed colour. green/yellow are for CPC/saved earth blue are for neutrals All other Wago use grey - do you can put "L1", "L2", "L3" or "1", "2", aso. on it if you need it. Do you can buy other colours too - but you must buy more as 10 pieces if Wago produces it for you. I self use for new colour scheme just spray colour cans - so L1, L2, L3 are brown, black, grey same the cables colour scheme. Or red for fire alarm, green for data power, aso. If the boss pay for everything it is not a problem - only your solution how creative you are. 🤗👍
Bonding conductors are meant to be continuous
They need to just make a bigger box with more ways, much cheaper to buy an adaptable box and a box of wagos
Why is this plastic box acceptable when plastic consumer units are frowned on? I know breakers can burn up but so can a bad connector, and there are a lot in there.
Because the fire brigade identified that many house fires were being caused by increased resistance in the terminals in the consumer units, so they asked for metal consumer units. And it is not that plastic consumer units are frowned upon, it's stronger than that: they are not allowed to be used. Full stop . But there is no obligation to upgrade existing installed plastic consumer units to metal.
@@deang5622 not true ,you can use plastic still.
@@charliedecker7702 Not true. In situations that require a consumer unit to be replaced the new consumer unit should comply with BS EN 61439-3 and Regulation 421.1. 201 which requires the consumer unit to have its enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material or be enclosed in a cabinet made of non-combustible material. Ok, that requirement doesn't exclude plastic if the plastic is non combustible. I don't know if there are any such consumer units fabricated from a non combustible plastic. But what you can't do is use a conventional plastic CU of the type that has been in use for decades. As they are combustible. Theoretically you could install a plastic CU and encase it in a metal box. But why would you when you could buy a non combustible type? Saying "you can use plastic still" is misleading. It gives the impression people can go out and buy them and use them. Such a statement *must* be qualified with the restriction around their use. I would suggest most CU installations across the country are not in non combustible boxes, so it's not appropriate therefore to state "you can still use plastic".
Nice bit of kit. What are your thoughts on the enclosure being plastic? I think the ref states something along the lines of consumer units and similar enclosures in domestics should be non combustible. I guess with all connections being non-screw this reduces risks of poor connections.
Switchgear or similar. Spring contact connectors aren't switchgear...
Also im pretty sure this is selt-extinguishing Plastic. This basically means it will combust while inside an open Flame, but as soon as you remove the Flame it will extinguish itself.
Only a small point. On the upper cables I would sleeve the reds with brown sleeve, and the blacks with blue. Maybe ott? Fantastic video though guys.
there is red and black wires old and new addition both ...why is this.? I think once renovated wiring. ...