DO NOT MAKE CARBON FIBER PARTS AT HOME (Making Charge Pipes) [DIY] with CR-Scan Lizard
2024 ж. 13 Мам.
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#carbonfiber #Chargepipe #Carbonpipe
DO NOT MAKE CARBON FIBER PARTS AT HOME (Making Charge Pipes)
How to Make Carbon Fiber Turbo Charge Pipes [DIY]
How to Make Carbon Fiber Intake Pipe.
How to Make Carbon Fiber Tube.
Making Carbon Fiber Charge Pipes [DIY]
How to make molds with 3D Printer for carbon fiber.
HANKUK CARBON
Website : www.hankukcomposites.com
Linkedin : / hankukcarbon
KZhead : / hankukcarbon
CREALITY
Website : www.creality.com/ko
카본 파츠는 집에서 만들지 마세요 (터보 차지파이프 만들기)
카본 터보 차지 파이프 만드는 방법 [DIY]
카본 터보 차지파이프 만들기
카본 인테이크 파이프 만들기
카본 흡기 파이프 만들기
카본 튜브 만들기.
3D 프린터로 카본용 몰드 만들기
I think the fact that you let everyone know that you failed multiple times is very important for those first starting out. Too many people get discouraged after watching other videos that make it seem easy and as if they get the perfect product every time or after the first try. So thanks for being completely transparent about that.
100% Fear of failure and perfectionism held me back for years, my life genuinely didn’t even begin until my mid 20’s when I got a better handle on my anxiety.
Well he never succeeded. Those last ones were horrid.
@@robsdeviceunknown I wouldn't call them horrid, I'd be happy with those results.
@@robsdeviceunknown Id like to see you try...
for sure
I worked CF composites at Koenigsegg, and the strategy that ended up working was kind of close to how we worked. The difference is that we never use sleeves for anything, but instead regular 240gr weave, but pre-preg. The reason your weave ended up wavy and inconsistent is because your weave wasn't cut out for the dimensions of the pipe. My suggestion is to buy 240gr pre-preg CF weaves. You can store rolls of them pretty much indefinitely in a freezer. Take your CAD drawings of your molds, "unfold" them onto a 2D plane, and cut the shapes into your CF weave + like 1cm in each direction. Then just laminate the mold with your CF weave, and use a box cutter to just cut off the excess along the edge of the mold. The pre-preg makes your CF weave kind of stiff, so it's easy to cut through it without the weave bunching up. Apply 2 more layers but leave the overlap on one of the molds; when you connect the two molds, take the overlap and make that the connection point to the CF on the opposite mold. And then just connect the two molds the same way you did, with the vacuum tube running down the middle, the breather, and all that. With the pre-preg you also won't need to do any treatment, like polishing etc. It all comes out looking good enough to be inside an engine bay. All you gotta do is cut off those excess strands of epoxy that seeps out the cracks of the mold with a box cutter.
You should make just 1 video.
Hello friend. I know the job is very easy with prepreg carbon fiber. I have prepreg carbon fibers. But I wanted to make it a handlayup for less cost. Thank you so much for your advice.
with pre-preg u wont need to polish them right? are you apply the polish for your ceo's head?
@@farhangorengtepung for internal CF components we don't polish, but all exterior and interior components including the visible engine bay gets polished. But no you don't "have to" polish it; polishing just adds the extra 10%. Yes, that includes Christian's head as well.
@@ohedd 🧑🏻🦲✨✨ 😂
You know Mr. Eco-LAP is serious when he puts on his trusty rubber gloves
Especially the Black ones!!!
You should consider using dowels as alignment pins next time you make a mold. You could probably program your printer to do it for you, or just add them after the fact. But it would really help in ensuring alignment of the two sides is proper.
True, but here, I think the vacuum bag's pressure forces alignment of the outside edges of the molds, so it works fine.
you can see they are wavy so they lock together.
Always put positioning pins & holes on your mould sections.
Exactly. Or design location features into the mould sections.
i tried making an intake pipe for a friend a while back, was super messy but somehow got it to work, it was far from perfect, but i wasn't aiming for perfection. Props to you for trying until its perfect, very inspiring as always!
Glad you got it figured out, but yeah, these are typically done with build-up layers. The outside layer adjacent to the mold face is the 'pretty' layer and done as one piece cut to shape, then subsequent layers reinforced for strength flange into the other half (the overlap) while the 2nd half fits inside the first at the seam. Too many people get stuck on the epoxy thinking that it's the component that gives a part strength, when its primary job is to essentially lock the carbon in place for shape. There's a lot of tricks you can use for other considerations specific for its working environment that also could also enable its use for downpipes, but there isn't an 'off the shelf' resin specifically for that due to epoxy's low heat tolerance. I specialize in extreme heat use and it took me several years to formulate one that can withstand exceptionally high heat (currently exploring in the 5600*F and above neighborhood) but in that usage, you most certainly won't have a 'show level' esthetic part anymore. In the future, I would print your parts as you intend them to look and function, then build your molds in fiberglass with generous flanges, use your tool coat for the inside and progressively sand up to 2000 grit for a perfect surface finish. Prepreg isn't strictly necessary for one-offs, but if you were to be doing this in a production use, you will end up with a stronger part for optimum carbon/resin ratio and less overall waste. But then again, you'd also need all the support equipment for pre-preg and not be doing this on the internet.😁
i love the fact that you showed you failed for months! You're the reason i started making carbon parts for my car and trying different ways of doing it as well. Keep up the amazing work
Amazing that you made those in under 17 minutes. It would have taken me at least twice as long.
But yours would have weight half of his but still more than the original.
At least!
Should have done it in under 12 mins...
Is this comment a joke? If it is, then what is supposed to be funny about it?
@@sepg5084 would you just.... OK??.... Just..... OK?
I would recommend watching a couple videos on how CF bike frames are made. Typically they use a bladder to blow up the inside of the tube, then vacuum the outside. And, as others have said, they use precut pieces of prepreg. It's fun to do it your way sometimes, but when you want the job done, check what others in the industry are doing. Did you do any pressure testing on the pipes? What about the mounting tabs?
Massive level of effort and learning for 2 parts. Really glad you showed the time and effort it takes to make this sort of stuff (which is why they are SOOOO expensive to buy.) Great to also see that you persisted and didnt give up.
Not only that, due to it being for a customer rather than personal, it has to be made to perfection, atleast he can get away with minuture imperfections
You could have wetted the carbon, wetted the inside of the mold, clamped the molds and then inflated internal bags, no need for vacuum bag on outside. Sometimes it's easier this way. Props for showing the process and failures. Nice work.
I like to use inner bike tubes inside of the internal bags it let me controll it a lot. Also using a weave works better for me then tube
My favorite part of watching your videos is knowing that these parts go on your M4! I'm ready to take my entire M3 apart and do the same. Great job overcoming a clearly difficult piece, it turned out very nice.
Bro i have to see it! Upload it to youtube!!
Absolute mad lad. Such a great video, showing every bit of the build process. Awesome work!
Was expecting the "Do Not Make" to be them splitting along the seams at 2bar at the end. Good job working your way through this complex layup
My new favourite DIY channel ... Quick, to the point with a dabble of comedic genius. Perfect
Dam good job. Thanks for sticking with it I make parts as well and it is so frustrating whenever it keeps failing over and over.
Beautiful work as always! I also got a CR scan and have been using it to scan a K24 to design my own ITBs. Your change of moulding techniques was very interesting! Have you tried layering carbon fiber over a water soluble 3D printing support material and then melting it after setting with vacuum? I've always meant to try that!
i actully thought about that too! :)
Or why not use an inflatable tube inside like a balloon. Something that you put pressure to
@@limitlessbuilds thats what he did, the bags inside the tubes are open to the outside so when he applies vacuum, they inflate
@@guachingmanhe should have put some air in the hoses and seal them. Only connecting to outside makes duckbill effect, and I'm not sure he did that.
Love the effort! You put a ton of work into something that most will never see under the hood. I felt that way when I put anodized CAC pipes on my Superduty.
I love that part with the windows error sound along with the p-dog screaming, so fitting especially when things don't go the way we would like. Great stuff, enjoyed watching your video. Thank you : )
Your level of persistence is inspiring to say the least! 99% of people would've given up after the first attempt had failed... But you kept going which is insane (in a good way). And I still can't believe you do all of your work directly on your laminate floor. You should build a small workbench since you do so much of this stuff as it can't be that comfortable working on the floor! Anyway, always fun to see a new video from you regardless of the project and result.
I believe it is a bench/table - on some shots you can see the edge of it at the bottom right?
@@gordowg1wg145 That would make a whole lot of sense then! A bench with laminate floor panels, that's pretty clever.
Vert nice! If you can't use prepreg's to ensure a nice glossy finish (the finish of your mould determines that) you can apply a layer of 2k clearcoat and wait for it to just "flash-off" proir to moulding. You get a great finish after just a little bit if polishing.
Dude, the amount of effort you put into them, hats off to you.
amazing! following your tutorials, i repaired my cracked front lip for my m6. i'm looking to refinish my mirror caps and eventuri intakes now :). can you pls lmk where i can get the same or similar resin, hardener and clear that you use in the US? are there certain characteristics in a good resin & hardener that that we should look for? thanks!
pretty cool. i specialized in carbon fabrication for about 10 years. just wondering why you didnt vent the bladders to atmosphere or pressurize them after the molds were under vacuum? at least i didnt see that in the vid, but they turned out really nice in the end regardless. well done mate!
I think it’s hard to notice, but it seems like he sandwiched the bladders in the seal so that air could enter them. He places another strip of seal on top to make the seal above, but there is nothing sealing the bladder from atmosphere. It looks flat but air can definitely get in.
Because he isnt using bladders. Look closer, those are just small tube bags. Very common for what hes doing. Thats how I make these tubes as well. No need for bladders. He needed to put breather inside the tubes though so his.....vacuum....(wont get into that) would hold the carbon to the walls of the mold. My thing though, is since he put it in an oven, why not use prepreg instead? Oh well.
I've got no knowledge in carbon fabrication but I'd have thought pulling a vacuum in the bag then pressurising the tubes that pass through the carbon sleeves with something like a bicycle inner tube (which would obviously need to be cut and re-sealed so it's no longer a loop) so they conform to the walls of the moulds while the epoxy cures would have been a good starting point?
@@Mortimusmoose yeah I was also confused by the lack of a proper vacuum pump, lack of breather on the inside, and why he originally tried to use sleeves/tubes absolutely saturated with resin, rather than just hand laying sheets in the first place when he literally made a 2 piece mould to allow that. Putting a discouraging title making out that it's impossible to DIY is really annoying when there's so many basic things wrong with the method he's using, which could be learned with a tiny bit of research...
@@jnxmck Yes....you just described a bladder. Perfectly fine for this. You can do it either way. If you dont have access to a bladder, you can do it the way he did it, or how I described. Bladders are the easiest way to do it though for sure.
구독하며 늘 챙겨보는 채널인데 이번작업 난이도는 정말 헬중에 헬 그자체네요,,,대단하세요!!!!
더베스트랩 잘 보고 있습니다 감사합니다^^
@@ECOLAPStudio 핸들 제작 의뢰하고싶습니다!!!
Amazing. I don't know why yt recommended this but I love the editing and the fact that all the failures were shared. I had no idea carbon fibres were sold in sleeves either!
I started doing carbon fiber work, and I have two words for you: wet sand. Even at 120 grit it works super well! Zero dust, and the sandpaper lasts way longer. You don't even need to wear a mask or gloves. I also found 320 grit works the best for leveling the surface, without worrying about sanding too deep.
For a part like that, since you were using two layers anyways, I think I would have done a single layer in each half as seperate halves, then assembled them and spiral wrapped it to bind it all together with the second layer.
Great work! wich software do you use for reverse engineering after the 3d scanning ??
He uses Fusion 360
Amazing work! Your perseverance and patience is incredible. Tenacious!
매번 챙겨보고 있는 구독자입니다! 퀄리티 높은 영상 감사합니다
Superb video! I'm just wondering something, would it work if you use the carbon sleeves with the vaccum bag inside of them and you try to put air (more pressure than normal atmosphere pressure) in them to push the carbon sleeves to the walls of your mold ? Maybe you've tried it already though.
I wondered about that too.
Using internal bladders is a common technique when molding hollow parts. When the part is open on bother ends, you can use an inner vacuum bag and an outer vacuum bad and join them together to vacuum bag the whole part. Two days ago, the channel *Matthieu Libeert* made a tutorial about making carbon fiber tubes. One of the methods used a mold which included the above described technique for vacuum bagging the part.
Hey amazing video, i was wondering instead of vaccum pressuring the moulds, would it been possible if you had tightly secured the two halfs of the mould and filled air in those transparent pipes that you filled inside the carbon fiber pipes? I am not a professional at this or never tried doing this kind of stuff before but all this time i was thinking of this idea to fill air in those pipes. Would this idea have worked?
It wouldve been the correct way. That or having bags inside the pipe connected to the atmoaphere. Bagging the mould like he did , did absolutely nothing.
@@helldiablo8471 He did have bags in the pipes connected to the atmosphere..
@@helldiablo8471 i would assume that bagging the whole mould would help to keep the two halves together right? By pressurising the inner sleeve you would have to make sure that the mold doesnt seperate
I think this would have been good providing he could reinforce the mold so it doesnt seperate under the pressure
@@markmorgan7370 yeah it keeps the mould together but doesnt expand the sleeves into the mold which is the point of bagging...
갬성마력 대폭상승! 이번에도 진짜 많은 시행착오와 시간이 들어가셨네여ㅜㅜ
Amazing job mate! May I ask what powertrain these were made for? What vehicle?
When I saw the bin getting full from failed parts, I couldn't stop laughing hysterically. This was literally my 4 month period trying to deliver consistent parts for a customer. Only those who have failed can understand the frustration and pain. But in the end, this is a distant memory, which when reminded in the future, is gonna be amusing. Believe me. Good luck on your job!
I would advise you to build or buy a professional dust system. You can make money now, but you would't be able to reverse the damage in your lungs later. Start on looking dust extraction system for woodworking. I personally built myself one from 1.5kW ventilation motor from a grill house.
@@keronGR Which filters are you using in that process? I Would think you would have to use something in the ballpark of HEPA H13 to get the Carbon particles out of the air right?
@@user-gx1sv3hj9k Think this process as a multiple stage. First you need to build a dust separator. Nothing fancy here, just youtube and you will find plenty DIY. This is important, as all the heavy particles or objects will fall in the bin. After the dust separator, you build a box with 2 or three filters. FIRST is a PRE-FILTER (G1-G4 class), SECOND is a BAG FILTER (M5-M6, F7-F9 class) and at the end you can add an absolute Filter or HEPA. Me, I don't use HEPA filter, because it reduces the performance of the vacuum motor. I just frequently wash and clean the filters. I use a 1.5kW ventilation motor, it's so damn strong it sucks many of my tools laying on the table. But I would also add another fan, ziptied to a prefilter, mounted on the back of the table, so that it absorbs even the tiniest particles, which the vacuum system has missed. Hope my answer is helpfull
Its armchair quarterbacking but any tube made really needs to be over a mandrel and if they have any curves they always start with a silicone bladder. They look great. Your molds are top notch for being 3D printed. It was far more trouble than I would have gone through when I would have just made a split mold and put a bladder in it.
A bladder was myb1st thought. Would also reduce any imperfections in the internal flow too, seen as these are going to have very fast flowing air pass through them...
포기 안하고 끝까지 만드셨다는게 본인 차를 얼마나 아끼는지 알 수 있었네요!! 차도 멋져요!!👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
I knew you were into something 😂. Amazing job like always!
You got me worried in the beginning when you used paper and marker instead of the 3d scanner, which I also bought when you showcased it.😅 I am still wondering why the sleeves did not work. I thought it should be perfectly fine if you do sort of a doughnut shape bag where "hole" goes through the sleeve, so air can expand there.
The sleeves aren't working cause the vacuum process pushes the excess resin between the sleeve and the mold.
@@TheTechnoaddict thank you. I was wondering the same thing 👍
Way to keep at it! If you want sleeves to inflate inside a bag you have to run the ends outside of the bag and remove the end. For the vacuum to expand the poly sleeve it needs atmosphere on the outside. By running the poly sleeve outside the vacuum bag you get atmosphere inside the sleeves working against the vacuum on the inside of the bag. You will get expansion to the mold or the poly sleeve will burst if too small a diameter. (Can't run sleeve outside the mold inside the bag) Has to pass through the outside bag at the mouth of the mold. otherwise the exposed part will pop.
Just gently inflating (e.g. with the mouth) the inner tube and seal it would be enough. If a vacuum cleaner is not strong enough to pop the plastic of the sleeve, it will also not pop inside the vacuum bag. 20% vacuum is enough, and it is +/- what a vacuum cleaner produces
@@franckbrunie4759 What I gave above is a way to use standard vacuum bag setup. Imagine how they show a wormhole in pictures. Put a sleeve through the center. Put sealing tape on both open ends like a mouth. Put the whole fixture in the vacuum bag. Tape the two mouth ends of the sleeve to the inside of the bag. Now cut the vacuum bag opening the mouths of the sleeve to outside air. Now inside the sleeve is atmosphere and the outside of the sleeve is at vacuum. This is pushing outward evenly throughout the sleeve inside the fixture.
@@curvs4me should work, however still two risks, especially in curved pipes: first ist the duckbill effect that may keep the hose, or part of it, flat. Second is hose wrapping while inflating from suction, a bit like a wrapped bicycle tire tube if mounted without putting first minimal air inside.
@@franckbrunie4759 The tube bursting is the risk outside of the fixture. You have to remember that vacuum is now on the exterior of the tube. The two ends have be flanged right at the ends of the tube fixture. Imagine a vacuum pot with with a hole drilled straight through the side going out the other side. Insert a pipe straight through the vacuum pot and weld it in. Now you apply vacuum to the pot. inside the pipe will be at atmosphere like everything outside of the pot. The outside of the pipe inside the vacuum pot will be under vacuum trying to expand the pipe. It's the same thing as the vacuum sleeve inside the vacuum bag.
@@curvs4me indeed. However 20% vaccum is enough and nothing would fail if the inner sleeve is not exagerately thin
차리뷰영상도 시간 되시면 만들어주세요!! 특히 엔진룸이 너무 멋져요
In the beginning I was all set to ask if you had any interest in making sets for the Audi B5 S4, C5 A6/Allroad owners with 2.7L TT’s and I’d organize a bulk buy but….. wow. Good work!
처음 방법이 맞긴 합니다만, 레진량이 많으셨고 튜브쪽 압력이 부족한게 문제였을 겁니다. 파이프류 좌우 붙이는 형태는..신뢰성 문제로 잘 안하는데ㅠ 진공펌프 하나 장만하세요!
I agree that the first method was better for structural integrity of the part as it was less likely to fail. He even had a pinhole in the part that he had to fix with another epoxy coating.
와....진짜 이런거 판매하셔야하는거 아닙니까.. 구형타는 오너입장에서 이제 정품카본은 구할수가 없어서 하고싶네요
What is the function called in fusion at 1:39 where you make circles around the scan?
너무 오랫만에 올려주셨네요~~👍👍👍👍👍
Good effort! I admire your persistence and I'm impressed with the results. Good job!
I love the work! The failures are rare depicted, thank you for showing that and for crushing your goals!!!!
fantastic job there man, 100% worth the wait !!😆
Bro great content. Ive worked with carbon fiber and can attest to the fact that it is very difficult to work with. I love how you show your whole process and struggles
Now that you achieved the structural duct, would it be possible to add the carbon fiber sleeve over the duct as a wet layup, wrapped with tape, for a additional reinforcement and as a cosmetic layer?
Yea, I had the same thoughts after seem the layout difference between his failed first iterations and his successful one.
Still forgetting too pat the bear on the wipes 🙄😂 great commitment and amazing result!! 👏👏👏👏
Great Video, but I have a question. If I see this correct, the 2 sides of a pipe are not connected by fibres, only by matrix (resin), because you used 2 pieces for the mold, right? Are you not concerned if that withstands the pressure inside the pipe?
Appreciated the persistence here. Would there have been any way to actively inflate or pressure the inner vacuum tube to expand the sleeve a bit better? FWIW ice also seen a KZhead builder 3d print a positive mold, put the sleeve around it. After curing with resin, they melted the 3d mold out in a hot water bath.
Just some air in the inner tube and seal it would have been enough
Ive never worked with any carbon fiber but would it not be a good idea to either partially or fully harder the two halfves and then wrap another carbon sleave around the 2 halves to then cure fully ? I just think that since it would give at lease one consistent layer all the way around ?
This is some really good stuff. You've got me watching and thinking about how I might approach my own projects.
I am just wondering if we print a thin hollow core and wrap it from outside will be easier and nicer. just asking, i've never made and cf parts before.
오븐을 꼭 사용해야 하나요? 어떤 오븐을 써야 해요? 뭘 확인하고 익었는지 판단해요?
Quick question since Ive never tried to make anything out of carbon fiber. Can you make a mold of the original pipe, fill that mold with plaster, then make your tube by wrapping the carbon fiber around the plaster mold? Kinda like making a cast item.
you are alive! i really thought something happened to you for not uploading any videos for so long glad to see you are ok keep up the great work
Very nice, took an awful lot of work but you got there in the end. definitely worth the effort, well done 👍
I have build intake runners myself and I know your pain. I have made two different sets for an isuzu and a vw pickup truck. I enden up using the method you employed as well - laying up both sides and then pressing them together with a fiber buttjoint. The idea of using a sleeve is appealing and there probably is a way to get it to produce good results. I have however, not found it yet. The obvious downside to this method is that there is a defined breaking edge as no fibers go all the way around the part. I have developed a solution to this issue, but I haven't used it yet so I can't tell you if it works.
Loved the video and effort. From what I've done in the past. These tubes are ideal for pre preg which you basically made yourself which is awesome. Easy composites Ltd has some great video doing complex tubes like this. Got me through college composites making.
hello why not have applied pressure inside the tube to extend and flatten the carbon fiber sleeve inside the mold?
Don’t know why but the thumbs up at the end made the whole video for me. Almost like I could here you screaming “YEEESSS” internally lol. Congrats man on a job well done.
Awesome work, with a nice finish. One small idea (unsure if you did it or not) is to sand and polish the interior of the pipes for reduced drag. Mind you give it 15,000km they will be filled with various gunk but it could add a minor increase in air flow
드디어 영상이ㅠㅠ나중에는 카본휠까지 만드시는건 아닌가몰겟......네요ㅎㅎㅎㅎㅎ
I'm curious to know how much pressure they can hold. they look amazing but are they as strong as traditional metal/ aluminum?
love it! can't wait for the next one!
Hey In your multiple trys, did you try to inflate the inner vaccum plastic tube so it would help the sleeve form its shape? Thanks
Hi, what high temp clear coat are you using? I’d like to use it on my project.
대단하십니다! 궁금한게 검은색 에폭시접착제는 제품명이 먼가요?ㅎ
정말 대박이네요! 좋은 영상 감사합니다. 무적권 카본은 구입하는걸로
hey love the video i have a question did u throw away the failed attempted parts or did u saved to used some how? that lead me to the next question can u recycle carbon fiber parts some how ?
Top notch work man, oh and your persistence is also level 100.
ECO-LAP Studio has now gone next level. I love it!
Great Video as each of your Videos 👌🏻 for my understanding - does each tube that was inserted form one half of the tube or does the tube form the entire tube due to the vacuum?
Great video. Would it have been easier to secure the two pieces together and inflate the plastic on the inside of the CF instead of vacuum sealing it and letting the suction expand it?
no, the mold would have to be much much stronger.
Amazing work. One question , why don't you use resin 3d printer? Isn't it more precise and smoother finish.
Interesting project. I found 'Easy Composites' pre-packaged parts kit and YT tutorial work very well, especially the pre-preg for cylindrical parts . Of course you could just get a CF extruder for your printer and some CF/nylon filament but with those complex curves, layout and supports would be a headache/ fun to experiment with. At any rate, what you're doing here is better than spending 16 hrs a day playing video games, so keep at it. BIG THUMBS UP!
CF extruder? Oh I think you mean hardened tool steel/ruby/tunsten nozzle im assuming. Most people dont realize you can print most exotic HT filiments on basic DD machines even with a brass nozzle but your going to have to throw the nozzle away afterwards as it will be enlarged but not as much as people think tbh. Mainily its all about heated build chamber and textured PEI spring steel sheet with Nano coating from Vision Miner. (Secret trick of the trade, that stuff will lock ABS at room temp to glass, its serious stuff!).
I love the way you make your videos bro, i mean, your sence of humor, is almost from hevens. thanks, cheers from Mexico city. I love you
this is a superb video, as others have commented, for showing the multiple fails before something useful and beautiful arrives. well done. what did you print, PLA?
Hello friend. I used PLA filament. Thank you.
Great video. Maybe you could try using water soluble filament to print out the core of the pipe, lay the carbon sleeve on it and dissolve the core in the water after it’s finished?
They look good. How did you know how much material to use so they would hold pressure though?
for the carbon sleeves, i think id try to use vacuum for the outside and compressed air in the inner tubes.
This is wild. I spent months on the same project and had the exact same failures.. I've got a box of about 10 sets of failed carbon charge pipes. It might be time to revisit the project and see if I can get it right.
I would love to buy the same vacuum pump as you are using. Where did you get it?
You can find them on amazon, they are just storage vacuum bag kits, nothing special there.
진짜 오랜만에 업데이트 됐다 ㅋㅋ마지막에 아론게이지 이뻐요
Wow... great job dude! SUBSCRIBED!
After you soak your carbon in resin place it between 2 peace’s of plastic and use a dough roller to squeeze out the excess resin. DYI prepreg. It also works great with a lay up. Place all the wetted bull material between clear plastic. Roll the excess out. Place template on top and out line with a sharpie. Cut through it all with a knife. Peal one side and apply. That’s how I do it at the race track in a time crunch between rounds.
Is it possible to use the lidar camera on the iPhone 14 to 3d scan that pipe instead of buying a 3d scanner?
Don't you need to pressurize the inner liners? So they expand and force the shape of the inside of the tubes? Maybe just clamp the shells together and pressurize the inner liner?
I was also wondering that, kevlar karbon sleeves are rather cheap and if that worked it would make easy composite charge pipes. Some 80s group B cars featured kevlar charge pipes so i think it's such a pity that this is still not popular in tuner scene
How does the sleeve in the mold expand when everything is sucked down by vacuum?
우와 정말 의뢰하나 드리고싶을정도로 멋지시네요
Wow, the way you started out looked so promising, who would have thought... Perseverance, looks like your good at it 👍👍🤙
You got a subscriber here, I love your content. I'm sure there are plenty of brackets and whatnot that are made from metal that you could copy in carbon fiber.
3d 스캐너 너무 탐나네요... 장비며 손재주며 다 부럽습니다 ㅎㅎ
As a process specialist who produce the original parts in plastic, in suction blow-moulding machines, I’m impressed on the amount of work you had to deliver to get these beautiful ducts. Apart from the aspect, what is the benefit? In serial production, the cycle time is less than 60 seconds
Carbon fiber looks better. Oh and you could make the part lighter as carbon fiber is stronger, but that's pretty much mood as going to the toilet before getting in your car will net you more overall weight loss.
please what is the name of the hand pump, that was used to sucked the air?