WIRING A GARAGE CONSUMER UNIT - HOW TO - A simple step by step guide
At LearnElectrics we are sometimes asked about the wiring connections inside a garage consumer unit or mini consumer unit as they are sometimes called.
In this video we will look at just how this is done and provide the information in easy to follow step by step drawings of each stage so that a fuller and more interesting understanding is achieved.
These small consumer units are very versatile and their uses are almost limitless. If installed correctly they can be beneficial to any installation where a small, localised, and self-contained installation is required with local isolation of a particular part of a building.
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This video is No.122 on our KZhead channel where we have videos on a wide range of electrical topics.
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Always work safely, electricity can be dangerous. If you are unsure, stop and seek advice.
This video is provided for guidance only. Every electrical situation is different, please check and ensure that you are applying this learning information to your own individual circumstances correctly and safely. If in doubt, stop and seek competent advice.
Complete clarity! Just enabled me to fix a tripping RCD in my out building. Many thanks!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Just watched this for a second time, the clarity of these lectures is outstanding. So unlike my present lecturer who keeps going back and forth verbally and breaking off to tell stories. I can tell these lectures are planned in advance, the clarity and delivery of salient points is so helpful. Thank you once again.👍
Brilliant feedback, thanks for your support. Spread the word with your colleagues. Thanks. Dave.
Fantastically informative and without unnecessary filler. Much appreciated!
You're very welcome and thank you for watching. Dave.
Thank you very much for this very useful video which helped me fault-find an issue and all is working now
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
This is the clearest, best, video I have seen by far.👍
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching.
Very clear, very precise and very easy on the ear. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful and thank you for watching.
This is a fantastic video. You know how to teach to the point. Love it
I appreciate that, great feedback. Dave.
Another great video. I've recommended this channel to a group of training sparks. One of, if not the best I've found for information and Clarity.
Brilliant news. Thank you so much, every recommendation helps. Dave.
Excellent tutorial - clear, consice instructions & simple diagrams. Many thanks
Thankyou, appreciated.
Amazing and to the point. Exact information you need for the job. Managed to hook up my consumer unit first try 💡
Glad it helped, and thanks for the feedback. Dave.
Very helpful chanel all videos are full of knowledge very use full very easy to understand thank you so much
Thank you Usman, appreciated, Dave.
Since I discovered this channel, I always look forward to the next video. The video was quite informative. Thanks ❤.
Thank you Mwita, that's great to hear. Lots more to come, thanks for watching. Dave.
Excellent and informative walkthrough and procedure
Glad you enjoyed it! and thanks for watching.
This is just the video I needed. Thank you
Glad it was helpful Adam, thanks for watching. Dave.
Hi well done enjoyed watching this video made it clear and simple just finished watching somebody else trying to do what you have done he needs to give up thank you
Thank you Gerald, I appreciate the kind comments and thanks for watching. Dave.
Hello dear you always teaching electric most easy I enjoy learning a lot from your videos. Thanks
Thank you Saleem. I appreciate your comments. Dave.
It's helped in a very big way. Thank you🙏 so much. Please keep uploading more helpful spark videos 👍
Thank you, I will. Thanks for watching.
Good vídeo explained well.. I normally fit an RCBO at the main house consumer unit and mcbs on main side on the Shed CU, or I put an MCB on the Main side on the Main House and RCD on the Shed to avoid unnecessary tripping on the Main house. Also it's worth mention the regs regarding not bringing the earth back to the house and fitting a Rod at the shed and taking the earth from there.
Thanks Ramon, great comments.
Hi, just to clarify, if you use an RCBO at main house you dont use RCD on shed side? or have I misunderstood. I have read of issues with 2 RCDs on same circuit but struggled to find a clear answer. Thanks
@@tomlee8871 yep, no discrimination! If 30ma feeding 30ma ...end up potentially NOT tripping, which could lead to a dangerous situation, unless install a S Type 100ma , RCD at the House feeding the shed etc ,
Fantastic video clear and informative. As always 👍👍👍❤️
Thank you Sean, thanks for watching. Dave.
Very interesting and very clear. Thanks for posting 👍🙂
Thank you, thanks for the support. Dave.
Brilliant video - thank you
Glad you enjoyed it Thomas and thanks for the support. Dave.
Thanks this is great. Just what I needed
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching. Dave.
Top website. Thank you for your hard work
Thank you, your comments make the effort worthwhile. Dave.
An interesting well made video. I would likely wire the electrics in a shed or garage in some sort of containment or tuflex style cable and not standard twin and earth. Does depend on the installation though and the cable runs. Likewise, the fittings I would use would probably be metal clad rather than plastic.
Metal clad is good especially where DIY is taking place. Thanks for the comments. Dave.
I would like to say a massive thank you for all of your time for creating ALL of your videos. Could you please explain, the second graf at the end of the video? This work would be notifiable under Part P of the Building regulations in domestic properties. Best regards.
Yes, notifiable if you are running a new cable/circuit to the garage. If the cable is already there and notified, no need to notify again. Dave.
Another excellent video👍🏻
Thank you Dibbo, very much appreciated, Dave.
really good video. thank you
Thank you, great feedback and thanks for watching. Dave.
Thanks that was really useful 👍
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Excellent video and really good teaching style. The isolator switch, should that be 2 pole or 4 pole? I would have thought 2 pole for the house but the 40A isolator switches seem to be mostly sold as 4 pole
2 pole will do but personally I always went for 4 pole because there was that little extra room in the box. makes no difference to the electric. Dave.
Like always a high quality tutorial, thank you. I have a general question about MCBs. Consider two MCBs in series. Type B 10A and type C 32A , the short circuit current is 400A. Can we say 10A MCB trips sooner or the answer is not clear? As you know the answer is important for selectivity.
Type B MCBs have the highest sensitivity. They trip whenever the currents are 3 to 5 times the rated while the Type C trip whenever the currents are above 5 times the rated. 400 A is 12.5 times the rated 32 A. If the 32 A came before the 10A in the series connection, then, it would trip before the latter has a chance to.
Good question Sajad. At 400A they are both above their rapid tripping current, in other words they are on the vertical part of the graphs. B10 needs 50A, C32 needs 320A. The current will not rise to 400A instantly so the limit will probably be hit by the B10 just before the C32. Hope this helps. Dave.
Excellent video, very informative and well explained. Do you have any videos you could recommend on terminated armoured cable in a meter box with Henley blocks? Not sure how to wire the earth with the armoured shield, I think I will need to add a junction box to convert the earth shield and main earth to one earth wire that can be tapped into the main earth coming out of isolater
Terminating the SWA into a separate box is certainly an option and one that I've used in the past. It makes for a tidier job. Nothing in the regs to stop you, all the regs want is a safe installation.
@@learnelectrics4402 Thanks for the reply, I think I will terminate the SWA in a junction below the meter box cabinet and take a suitable non armoured cable up through the cavity into the box and connect all up on the load side of the isolator switch with Henley blocks and hopefully it will be fit for certification.
Thank you .... video
My pleasure Jamal. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Hello, great video, lots of usefull information. I have just purchased a consumer unit it for my shed, it has a 40amp Rcd with a 16amp and 6amp Mcb for lights and power circuits. My question is what Mcb should I be using In my main distribution panel in the house? Thank you.
If it is a 40A RCD/RCCB then a 32A Type B MCB would do depending on the Zs. Keep watching. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 Thank you for your reply. I'm running 10mm three core swa cable And the lengh is 25 meters to the shed where the external distribution box will be. I'm going to use Ip rated Junction boxes at each end, so I don't have to drill/cut a big hole for the swa cable. I'm still learning a bit and was just wondering why you can use a 32amp in the main distribution box and the 40amp in the external distribution box in the shed? Thank you.🙂
Great videos, very helpful ! Just moved house. I have an 30amp mcb at the house consumer unit for garage supply only. Could this be used as an isolator switch for the garage consumer unit ? The garage unit is BG, same style as in your vid. Also, as existing, the house mcb is not on the rcd rail, but garage unit has its own. I guess you don’t want two rcd’s on same circuit? Is that ok ?
You can use the 30A MCB or consider a 40AMCb or RCBO if it will physically fit. It does happen where two RCD devices are on the same circuit, usually the one closest the fault goes first as there is extra cable resistance to the one in the CU, just enough to make a difference. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 Thanks for your help, much appreciated!
Nice video, thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for the feedback, thanks for watching. Dave.
Hi Dave would the rating of the RCD from the house to the Isolator and then from the isolator to the garage unit need to be the same rating as the total rating of the RCD circuits in the garage unit (6A lighting 32A sockets = 38A so...40A at the house and 40A isolator?)
The RCCB isolator at the shed will not trip for overcurrents, the 40A is just its maximum working current, not tripping current. You could have an 80A RCCB in the garage if you wish and a 40A MCB at the house. Hope this helps. Dave.
Thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching. Dave.
If the house does not have an SPD should the DB in the shed have one fitted? What type of 40 amp RCBO should be fitted in the house DB if this is the only RCD for the circuit?
You need 30mA RCD/RCBO to protect persons. Ideally you should be installing an SPD at the house CU. Hope this helps. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 would you recommend using a type C or B ?
Thank you for the explanation. What type of amp do you require for the rotary isolator if the MCB is 40A.. can I use a 32A or is it not sufficient? thanks
Its all to do with how much current the contacts can break from ON-Load without burning out. I would always suggest that the isolator can break in excess of the max load. In yoiur case with a 40A mcb I would go for a 63A isolator. Even though it is single phase, I often fitted 3 phase isolators as there is physically more room inside for terminating the SWA but that is personal choice, good luck. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 thank you… what is the main difference from having said isolator instead of wiring the armoured cable directly at the house 40A mcb… I could always switch off the MCB if I need to isolate the shed consumer unit? Why the extra rotary isolator? Sorry if it may seem a silly question…
Superb clarity. 👍 A quick question. Would I be able to run a shed on a generator wired into a consumer unit in the shed with a isolation switch?
It's not clear whether you want to have national grid and a generator set up, or just run the shed 100% from the generator with no grid connections.
Im running a sub main through a ocupied house property, some of the cable is less than 50mm deep and not visible so this wont allow me to use a 100ma RCD for safety reasons, but another spark says its ok to use 100ma as long as you have the correct MSecond trip times. What is your opinion. Also for TT systems should you use a cartriage fuse for short curcuit protection.
I would always follow the guidance in the regs. Regulations 522.6.202 to 204 apply, especially 522.6.203 which tells us to comply with either Reg 415.1.1 or Reg 522.6.203 Hope this helps.
If you have an rcd in the garage and an rcd in the house feeding the garage, in fault conditions in the garage, would this not trip the house rcd taking any other circuit on that rcd out with it? I normally only have one rcd or rcbo at either end rather than 2 in the same circuit. My preference is mcb in the house and rcd at garage end.
The boffins say that the extra resistance in the cables to the house might be enough to not trip the house RCD, but that assumes that both RCDs are identical. Hope this helps.
Great video and resource as I’m now looking at a change in career and becoming an electrician I did have a question, regarding running the supply from the main consumer unit. As the garage unit has an RCB, should it be connecting to a none RCB protected MCB on the main board or would it be best to use RCBOs in both units and not have the RCBs in either Do you also offer nation wide training or know any good courses in the Dorset area
The only issue you might have is which RCD goes first, but leaving the RCD in the CU protects the cable to the garage. Another option is to put it on its own time delayed RCBO at the CU and a 30mA RCD at the garage. The important thing is safety. Courses - I don't do face to face training now. When deciding on a course do NOT book it over the phone just because they have a special offer on at the training centre. Go to the centre and see what you are getting for your money. Visit at least three different centres, they can vary enormously. Find a centre that suits YOU. Ask questions before you sign up, ask to look at the training facilities. If they won't invest the time in showing you around, is it the right place for you. I might sound negative about things John, but there are some out there that just want your money. Spend it wisely.
@@learnelectrics4402 thanks fir the reply and not negative at all, think what your saying is very true, just hope now I’m in my mid 40s it’s not to late to get out from the desk and way from computer programming
There are lots of good electricians that started life in their 40s. I enjoyed teaching mature students, high commitment levels. It might take you a couple of years to be independent, but take every opportunity to improve yourself and keep learning. Its a good trade.
So is there an rcbo fitted in the main DB in the house that’s connected to the main switch in the mini board? If so does the rcbo need to be 80amp that’s fitted in the mainS DB
It depends what the loading is on the second board. Some 2nd boards only have 40A RCCB fitted. As long as the main board is fused equal to the 2nd board or greater, this will avoid nuisance tripping.
Hi sir , the supply box fitted outdoors and I want to run SWA cable to the consumer unit inside the flat, do I need to put mechanical protection such as metal trunk or PVC conduit in the outdoor part or no need because it’s armoured cable ? Thanks
SWA will often not need protecting further but try and route it to avoid mechanical damage and impact as much as possible. Underground SWA does not need further protection, but try and bed it into sand or soft soil so that sharp stones don't penetrate and place marker tape about 300mm down in the trench.
Hi Dave, would the cable supplying the garage consumer unit need to be RCD protected?
I always installed them that way. Some people use an RCBO to keep it separate from the house circuits. Dave.
Will there be a problem with having RCD’s in series, if the garage consumer unit has an RCD device power supplied from a RCBO or MCB with an RCCB in the house main consumer unit?
Normally, because of the extra wiring back to the house, the RCD nearest the point of fault trips first as it has a slightly higher current. They say that the resistance in the cable back to the house is enough to make a difference in response times. That's been my experience too, most times. If it is a problem, try a separate S type RCBO for the delayed response at the house CU.
@@learnelectrics4402 thanks for your response, much appreciated. Just one more question if you don’t mind. To avoid discrimination between RCD’s altogether would it be wise or within Regulation to have an garage consumer unit fed from a house MCB that has no RCD protection? Say for argument sake the SWA cable is uninterrupted by an isolation switch or any other type of junction and is terminated in the house consumer unit.
Can you tell me why the main earth has to pass through with the main live and neutral on a tt system or any other. My understanding is as long as the live and neutral pass through the same grommet this is ok Is this right. Cheers bill
Thanks for the question William, take a look at he video below which answers the TT question for you. Basically if there is a high amps earth fault that is not quite high enough to trip the device quickly, there could be circulating eddy currents for several minutes or hours. Take a look on the link below. Dave. ELECTROMAGNETIC HEATING EFFECTS kzhead.info/sun/ZdmLeLqmkJt-ln0/bejne.html
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Glad you like it, appreciate the feedback.
I have a Henly block installed splitting the incoming supply to 2 consumer units. 1 obviously is dedicated for the house. The other unit supplies the garage. This garage consumer unit (Withing the house) has a main 100A switch with a 63A RCD and a 40 am MCB. The feed to the garage is 10mm twin and earth over a distance of about 15 meters to a Consumer unit on the wall of the garage ( all withing the the buildings which are attached.) In the garage is another consumer unit. with another 63a RCD. 1, 32amp MCB for the ring main ( 6 sockets) and a 6 amp MCB for lighting (4 strip lights) and a security light on the garage exterior wall. This is how it was wired when i purchased the house about 20 years ago. QUESTION. I have been advised by some that this creates a sensitivity issue with regards to the RCD (s) tripping Is this correct or do i need to alter any RCD / or install a different one etc Regards.
You need to determine what the tripping current is foir the RCDs. It won't be 63A. It will probably be 30mA or maybe 100mA. If the 100mA RCD is upstream of the 30mA device then that is the correct way. If they are both 30mA then sometimes you can get indeterminate tripping of one or the other. Take a look at our video on RCDs on this link ... kzhead.info/sun/abOgkaZoeXugZHA/bejne.html
Can this be connected via a fcu off a socket or an old cooker fcu that's not being used anymore or only to the main consumer unit?
You could run it from an FCU but then you are restricted to the 13A fuse in the FCU. Good question, thanks for watching. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 as the wiring from a FCU would be 1.5mm when it gets to the garage box would the cable size still be 1.5mm or go back to 2.5mm cause of the breakers?
I have just moved into a house that has a consumer unit in the garage, fed by a 2.5mm T&E cable. This unit has 63A main switch with a 32A and 6A mcb's. The 2.5mm cable is run back to the house via a catenary overhead cable, but not connected at the house consumer unit. Do you know what size mcb is required in this consumer unit, assuming the the external wiring is coreect.
Its not a matter of the external wiring being correct. what matters is that the wiring AND the circuit breaker are correctly matched, At 2.5 supply you should really be installing a 20A device maximum for adequate protection and safety. Take a look at this video on matching them. kzhead.info/sun/idiNhc-Np4NjhZs/bejne.html
May seam like a strange question: but could I replicate this for wiring up a whirlpool bath? So instead of being fitted inside a garage, its fitted in a suitable location, with one feed going to the pump of the bath and the second going to the lights of the bath? Using a 30Mamp RCD and two 13a breakers? - or have a completely failed to understand the video
You will need a feed to the whirlpool room and this will give you the supply. I wouldn't use 13 amps for the lighting circuit. 6A is probably enough. Check manufacturer's installation instructions, especially with regards to earthing. Manufacturer's instructions take precedence over the Regs,
Can I run a shed consumer unit from a socket spur from my house? Using a junction box and swa to my shed into a new consumer unit?
I wouldn't do it personally. Its not good practice to do it that way. Thanks for watching and thanks for the question.
@@learnelectrics4402 so add another mcb and run it from that?
Why does the main live neutral and earth have to come through the same hole? Is this the same on any metal board wether it's garage or not? Cheers
Caleb, have a look at this video on the link shown, it will answer your question. Dave. ELECTROMAGNETIC HEATING EFFECTS IN CONSUMER UNITS kzhead.info/sun/ZdmLeLqmkJt-ln0/bejne.html
@@learnelectrics4402 thank you
Do u need an earthing rod for a garage consumer unit 4 way ,its coming of a spur switch from a rcb plug plugged into a single house socket on 2.5 armoured , I'm putting in 5 double radial sockets 2 with 2 USB ports , I've got 2 16a mcbs ,I'm putting 3 sockets on 1 and 2 sockets on another , I'm putting and out side lcd light into a switch onto a 6 a mcb ,
That's a lot coming off a single spur, which I'm assuming is already coming off a ring or radial circuit that is already in use. Personally I would run a separate circuit from the CU on a 40A or 32A MCB. That way you are not overloading the existing house circuits.
That's what a lecky was doing , so there is a single socket in side , I've connected 2.5 cable to an rcb plug , run it out the wall into a outside spur switch , I've put 2.5 armour cable from the switch down to the shed , that will go the the 4 way consumer unit , I'm put 3 sockets off a 16 mcb , and 2 sockets into another 16 mcb , 2 separate cables , then the 1.5 light cable into the 6 mcb ,, so a total of 5 sockets and 1light , it's only a man cave with a TV, and a fridge and a lamp on now and again no heavy use ,3 sockets there , and 2 in the shed side occasionally used , this is what 2 sparkies said they could do , I've seen people install with no earth rod ,, no one mentioned an earth.rod either
Quick question were is the armord cable wired into before its run in to the shed
Different ways of tackling this Ashvan. I would often run twin and earth (10mm) from the CU to a rotary isolator next to the house CU. This meant the garage could be isolated if there was a problem or just not being used. And 10mm T/E is easier to get into a CU. Then Armoured from the rotary to the garage or shed. At the garage, terminate into a 4 inch plastic box and change to 10mm T/E again or whatever size you need. From the box in T/E into the garage CU. Hope this helps. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 would you also wire it into a RCD from the house cu
What size cable in this video is supplying the sockets?
You should use the size appropriate to the circuit. 32A ring can be 2.5mm and 20A radial would also be 2.5. There is no size specified in the video, but we do have videos on choosing sizes.
Should the shed consumer unit be earthed to a separate earth bar? Or will the earth back to the house suffice?
The earth at the house should be the common earth bar.
The ones sold on eBay do not come supplied with a bus bar, do you actually need one. Could you just link them together using 2.5 wire.
The units I've bought have had a copper bus bar already fitted or in a plastic bag with the neutral wire and a few other bits. Decide how much current is passing through the unit. I wouldn't fit less than 10mm if I didn't have a bus bar. Hope this helps. Dave.
Is it permissible to install two live wires to an MCB? In other words, two incoming cables (e.g. both for lights only) with both live wires to the 6A MCB, two neutrals to the neutral bar and two earths to the earth bar.
If you mean can you have a ring on a 6 amp breaker, yes you can. Anything else, I would question why you want to do this.
@@learnelectrics4402 Thank you. As I understand it my Garage consumer unit has a radial circuit with just the two MCBs, 16A (number 1)and 6A (number 2) - I have already installed additional sockets in line. I have now connected two 1.5mm cables to the 6A lights MCB with an outside light being wired separately and connected permanently through a FCU. As regards the sockets I presume it is also okay to connect two cables to the consumer unit as well? I have the choice of adding another socket from a socket in line but as I want this one close to the consumer unit I thought it would be better to wire it directly to the same 16A MCB (number 1) rather than use several yards of 2.5mm cable from around the other side of the garage. My question really is whether the regs permit two live wires into one MCB and two neutrals into position 1 on the neutral bar and two earths into position 1 on the earth bar.
Hope you can answer this for me... I want to swap out an old fuse distributor box. Its hard wired to the main consumer unit. So it would be a second consumer unit in the chain. And so third breaker from the main feed into the house. I was under the impression that you didnt need certificates and informing the council for any wiring after the main consumer unit. Is that still the case? You mentioned filling in the certificate for the garage unit. Money is really tight right now, and Id really rather not have to hire in a electrician to do a job and charge me a few hundred quid for something I can do in an hour.
The work sounds like it is Part P notifiable. You are changing fuses - in fact a whole box of them, and you are installing new wiring. So Part P notification required and a full Electrical Installation Certificate. Hope this helps.
How do you wire a shed fuse board to the existing house consumer board
Exactly the same method as here. The little distribution boards with 2 or 3 breakers are often called "garage units" or "garage consumer units" but they can be installed anywhere. Have a look at this video on extending consumer units. Thanks for watching, Dave. kzhead.info/sun/o8iEpKp9n4JpeKc/bejne.html
Isolator could be used when on holiday
Absolutely. Thanks for the input.
Any videos on wiring home consumer unit?
Have a look at these videos. I may do another video on Domestic Consumer Units with additional information. Thanks for the request. Dave VIDEO 125 - SPD INSTALLATION IN A CONSUMER UNIT - HOW TO and THE BASICS kzhead.info/sun/o8uihcmJaoxtdq8/bejne.html VIDEO 128 - AFDD INSTALLATION IN A CONSUMER UNIT - HOW TO and THE BASICS kzhead.info/sun/iruvnKZpoJx_on0/bejne.html
Sorryi know this is not related to the video. I have a question. I would like to ask, I'm in a bit of an argument with a director of an electrical company who is telling me that you should not use plastic trunking across escape routes. Can you clarify that for me, please? Because I've never seen in any of the regulations that stated plastic should not be used. I think regulation 521 or 522 makes clear if use should not be liable to premature collapse. We understand using metal in the first option, using plastic with metal clips. What's the problem?
I agree with the director. Plastic trunking anywhere in an escape route is frowned upon. premature collapse, flammable materials in an escape route, what is the smoke factor etc. personally I would stick to metal trunking and metal conduit.
@LEARN ELECTRICS thanks for your reply. Where in the regs that it says you must not be used? To my understanding, it stated if used must not be relied upon as the sole purpose for safety. If fire safety clips use in a run of mini trunking, don't that deemed to comply? Mini trunking has a low smoke rate.
thanks, for once some one made it simple without a load of rubbish talk.
Glad it helped and thanks for watching, appreciated.
Should you not show all your installs with rcbo's or AFDDs dearer but better and safer and only trips one circuit not all. They done away with one RCCB boards and I think they will do away with the 2 RCCB boards or they should do away with them I also think any outhouse ,garage or shed must be 10 mm SWA 3 core for add ons no ifs or buts Cheers
Thanks for watching, appreciated. Dave.
Hi Dave I want to put a consumer unit in my garage can you suggest what I need please I have . garage roller door 2 double sockets 1 fish pond pump 2 strip lights thank you.
Gerald, you will need to make a list of the current demands of each device so that you can decide what and how many MCBs you need and then visit your electrical wholesaler who can show you the different options consumer unit options they have in stock that will suit your needs. Thanks for watching. Dave.