Connecting up a Consumer Unit Wired in PVC Singles - Fitting MCBs and Using a Torque Screwdriver
In this video I go through the full process of dressing and connecting PVC single insulated cables into a consumer unit (fuse box). This video also includes the process of fitting the copper busbar and the returning of all the connection to the correct torque setting.
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== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:00 - Connecting up a fuse box
00:18 - Double pole switch RCCB
00:42 - AC RCD
01:10 - MCBs
01:37 - General practice but NOT a rule
01:57 - Removing MCBs
02:31 - Busbar
03:17 - Cage clamp
04:28 - Supply line connection
04:59 - Supply neutral connection
05:32 - Dressing in the cables
06:30 - CPC connection
09:38 - Neutral connection
11:25 - Line connection
13:42 - Time to torque up
17:23 - Are all connections tight
🔵 Second Fix - PVC Singles in Conduit - 1 Way Switched Lighting Circuit - Wiring Loop In Method
• Second Fix - PVC Singl...
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Great video, Where would you fit an inline meter in this setup? The customer wants to monitor the power usage coming into the cabin so they know exactly how much power the cabin is consuming separate from the main dwelling. The meter in question is same size as the RCD and just snaps onto the rail.
Great video from Pakistan keep make videos about electrician about house wiring heater fixing and about RCCB.mcb dp please
Great work like always Gaz
Thanks 🦾
Isn't the RCCB switch normally on neutral?
Just what i needed , thanks
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I don't understand why it's important to to torque the screws. 2.5 nm is very low. Terminals relax over time. We were always encouraged over tighten with our hands. I wonder if this has anything to do the 400 CU fires each year and the reason for CU units to be metal to help with the fires?
These are all soft metals - over-tightening is one of the things that'll lead to a joint relaxing (as the metal goes past the plastic deformation point and then provides no extra clamping load, but is now mechanically distorted and may not provide even clamping force). This is more of an issue with a cage clamp and the comparatively short tapped threads, plus a sheet metal clamp, compared to a screw in a brass bar which can handle comparatively high loads, although you can still certainly over-tighten and maybe even strip a brass screw or thread. As for using a torque screwdriver: it's consistency. Yes, torques are only good to around 25% tolerance on clamping force in real-world applications (hence TTT and TTY for critical mechanical applications) and yes, some of us develop pretty good "torque wrists" - but none of us has a calibration certificate, and the apprentice with three months' experience probably can't hit 2.5 +/- 1Nm reliably on all 40 screws to do a fairly simple wiring job. Is it that much of a big deal? 99.99% of the time, no. How long does it take an electrician to do up ten thousand screws and have one which *is* a problem? Probably about three months, or less if it's a big job. For the price of a 2.5 and a 5Nm, fixed torque driver, the cost savings associated with never having a "undertorqued or stripped screw" problem are well worth it.
When using multi strand wire I prefer to use ferrules , more reliable as well.😊
Thanks
Massive thanks for the support it is very much appreciated 👍🏻
Why do we need to use a special slotted pozi screwdriver? I thought the point of pozi was for use with torque drivers alone vs normal cross head which can't be torqued?
Just curious why you connect the incoming wires to the MCB first and from there into the RCCB. I believe in Germany you go into the RCCB first, then into the MCB and then on to your appliance. or does it not matter in the end, because the MCB will be triggered first anyway.
The earth/neutral bars can't take 25mm² SWA?
Please i wanna ask a question outside of this video. According to the "On site guide" under cables ans their resistance. It states that 2.5mm² cable has a resistance of 7.41mOhms per metre. So i cut exactly 1m cable and use digital multimeter to measure the resistance and i had 0.00 ohm, but i had 0.50ohms when i used the clamp meter... Please why didn't i get the 7.41mOhms as stated... Or what's the right instrument to use. Thanks
7.41mOhms would be a reading of 0.00741Ohms. Your meter giving you a reading of 0.00 is pretty accurate.
Where did all this CPC thing come from. I have been in the trade far to long . To me and other people I know ,it’s a Earth wire and always will be . To confuse the issue even more if I buy a drum of cable from my wholesalers.It says on the label Twin and Earth . Not twin and CPC.. Even on electrical accessories it never talks about a CPC always Earth I don’t encourage DIY but at least most DIYers would at least understand the term Earth wire . Definitely not CPC . so we want to keep confused DIYers to a minimum. Then again a large percentage of electricians still call a consumer unit a fuse board. But that’s another story . In no way is this a criticism to this excellent video.
Problem with cheap imports like Fusebox, although popular these days, the attention to detail and safety is poor. Open cage devices like the ones used here can lead to misconnection of the busbar and overheating even fire conditions can occur. Also, the design of those mcb's means that to replace a device or upgrade a circuit you have to disconnect every connection to remove the busbar and then the device. Then of course you have to reconnect again and risk misconnecting the busbar into the device. I only fit Crabtree Starbreaker with the plug in devices. A far safer and quicker install and when you need to change a device you just clip out and refit without disturbing any other circuits.
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Thanks 👍🏻