Machining & Welding - Rebuilding a Hydraulic Cylinder Rod, Manual Only Machine Shop
2022 ж. 27 Қаң.
113 170 Рет қаралды
Broken cylinder rod? No problem. I just started getting more hydraulic work in and have been learning a ton about it. A couple little hickups along the way, but overall the customer is very happy with my repairs.
Watch as I make quick and easy work of this cylinder rod replacement.
Topper Machine LLC is an entirely manual machine shop located in Spooner, WI. Our videos will highlight some of our shop work as well as the sawmill we built in the shop and our A.D. Baker steam engine, and others we work on.
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The champer on the end of the rod allows the seals to slide onto the rod without damaging them.
Banana units and various styles of screws. Making life easier.
This job was more difficult than most realise. Well done.
The thing that fascinates me about cutting threads is how the machine is able to do it without cross-threading. I know the machine is designed to do just that, but I still find it cool.
Just FYI the chamfer on the shaft is to avoid damaging the seals in the packing gland during install. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Nice job welding the shaft
I have seen lots of KZhead videos doing this same basic repair of replacing the cylinder rod. Everyone has there own technique so it’s interesting to see slightly different ways to accomplish the same repair. Yours was not full of excessive talking. Just head down doing the job. Great video.
Thank you. There are many ways to do the same job. They are all the right way if it gets to the same end result, a happy customer.
Thanks for sharing!
Might consider center drilling the pin eye first thing. Running a center steadies things and provides a nice line up aid when putting new rod on.
What a nice job. Your experience speaks volumes 👍🙂👌
Great job sir.
NICE job. THANKS
Great job
I log now however I used to work in a machine shop for about 6 years. I have a few machines and I’m not a bad machinist however thank you for posting this video I learned a few things that I found very valuable. Thanks again for posting
I now thread on the lathe with the carriage going away from the chuck. Much easier and safer, I just had to order an LH threading holder as it's flipped upside down now. Got the idea from Joe Pie as he has a great video on this..
GREAT JOB
Very much appreciated information
Nice one . It's good when it's not the induction hardened stuff ! Cheers .
Nice job!
Nice job Josh, I do alot of jack repair ,great video,keep'um coming..
Awesome I feel like I would like this kind of work
Great job Josh buddy
When you tighten on hydraulic piston rod with soft pads, use a four jaw chuck....Keeps everything concentric....When you weld on the rod ...use some Stainless steel .020 shim stock around the rod is better ,not paper. You can use the shim stock it many times... All it takes is one time for "splatter" from the weld will damage that rod. I have done thousands of cylinder repairs. Hope this will help....
nice job
Nice to watch a Master Machinist at work.
Far from a master. I'm still learning something new everyday. Thanks for watching.
Nice job..😉👍😉
The taper on the stub end is to allow the rod seal not to be damaged when your sliding the packing gland on. I've been machining hydraulic replacement parts for more them 35 years. Those bobcat style rods are really simple and I end up doing a couple a week.
good job on that
Awesomeness
Beautiful work 😅
Great job. This was really enjoyable to watch and I learn so much from your videos, thanks
Great work Josh, never seen the snow trick on a Machine tool 👍. Yes, the friction welded flash curl can be quite hard, depending on material grade and to a lesser extent friction welding parameters. Thanks for sharing
It's the only good use I've found for snow. Surprisingly this weld wasn't bad at all. I wasn't expecting that. Thanks for watching
New Subscriber. Nicely done and well explained! Great work... Fred Ontario, NY
Josh, if you are in need, CRC Distribution in Alabama stocks many parts for hydraulic repairs.
I would cut threads first. Incase the first go gets buggered, you may get another chance before you need to need to cut overall length and bore for the spigot which is much harder to bugger that up.
If that cylinder doesn't have damage to the guide / piston / wall it would be nothing short of a miracle .
Therapuetic for me, probably not so much for you. But guessing that a finished product yields a good amount of accomplishment gratification for you. As a young man, I attended one night of Machinist Training and knew I was in over my head. So, I have great admiration for your craft. Subbed...👍
nice
Nice long chips on that threaded end. The machine was making some music there for a second.
That chafer on the rod there for the assembly of the cylinder. You don't tear up the wipers, o-ring ,cup in the head of the cylinder that's all. Hope that helps you understand.
I don't know what my dog thought of you parting off the top of the rod but it can't have been good, my mentor would have been very appreciative of your lathe mank tank, there were certain places in his shop that he said if you had time to clean them out, you weren't working hard enough well that looks nice .. A happy customer is what its all about.
Beer cans work well for shim stock. Coke cans work well also.
Nice job New subscriber Cheers
Cutting off There is a cut off jig that allows the tool to spring down when loading it and it will not chatter as you were finding it
Use a ceramic insert. It will go through the hard surface like butter. Only take .02 at most per pass.
Try CBN or ceramic on the hard stuff i used to regularly do 58 to 60 Rockwell C tool steel we also had luck with un coated inserts meant for hard cast iron
That looks slicker than spit onna door knob.
I have done this work for decades; I work with a welder, and a hydro technician however. I would remove the eye with an abrasive cutoff saw bevel the rod but leave a flat on the tip. The welder tacks the eye to the new rod, adjust as needed then welds it, that would save you time right there. My part in the process is limited to machining. The material is selected by the hydro tech. It looked like the broken rod was IHCP in the video.
That was definitely I.H.C.P. shafting.
@@seanmullen2287 It breaks like that when you try to straighten it sometimes. too.
Yes it does.
@@seanmullen2287 What is I.H.C.P. shafting ? (C.P. = Chrome & Polish ?) Thanks
@@petermoale2116 it means Induction hardened chromed and polished.
I am glad you called it a 24” Rule not a ruler call it what it is thank you
Is that like a Metre Rule, except used for horses..?
I call my 6" rule my multi tool/ Orange peeler coffee stirrer 😃😄😅
Rather see a center drill hole in the rod eye end while in the lathe. That will assure alignment when tacking up, with tailstock center, when back in the lathe.
13.22 that slanted part is there for you not to damage the seal with mounting
I had heard that on some was for the added pressure to start the push, but makes sense for starting seals.
Does the exposed part of the shaft get a hardened coating to prevent corrosion?
It’s good seeing back on the Tube 📺 Josh. Well done, that was a very nice repair. You’ll be giving Kurtis from CCE a run for his money soon mate 😉. Cheers from Downunder 🍻. Aaron
Thanks Aaron. I could only wish there was work like Kurtis has here. He cure has fun jobs come in.
Like Kurtis but without all the profanity. 😆
@@chrisstephens6673 it's hard sometimes. I have to edit it out. Lol
@@chrisstephens6673 Ha ha ha, us Aussies like to swear (cuss). I think it's in DNA 🤣
@@AaronEngineering I guess that is something else you learnt from us Brits 🤣🤣 It comes with the English language even though some say you have your own now.🤨😂😂
Hi Mr Topper, How do you know the thread depth are correct? I do like yours video. mvh sverre eriksen, Norway, Trondheim.
Looks like that original rod may have been induction hardened and that would cause it to snap like that in a bind instead of bending. I prefer to use 1045 TGP Chrome without induction hardening to allow for a little spring. Some can even be straightened when bent if not bent too far right on the machine to get by until time allows to make a new one if needed.
Totally agree. And we now only use 1045 chrome, unless the customer specifies.
Nice job. I agree with Max, goodit wasn't the induction hardened rod, ether the old or the new. What happen re the big monarch?
The induction hardened stuff isn't bad, but it can be. The big monarch sold yesterday at auction. Just waiting for buyer to.make arrangements. No idea who it is yet, hoping it's another KZhead machinist. I would love to see it's future.
it done broke.. JB Weld it !
That chrome is certainly tough on inserts, would be interesting to know what is used to cut those in a production setting, probably cermet or such. The only thing I've tangled with that's harder than chrome is the cast iron used by Lodge for their Dutch oven. Tried to true up a new lid... the score was lid 1, insert 0
I've found the chrome isn't much trouble if you don't plunge in, but cut normally with at least .100 deep. Seams to peal it as it goes. Those lodge cast product are insane. I have cut a few, don't remember what I did. Just remembered it was harder than induction hardened bar.
I used to make class 30 gray iron typical in these applications. Likely you hit a chill area in the thinner sections as Lodge doesn’t need to pay attention to making iron thats machineable. They probably skip the additional silicon necessary.
It's all cut with carbide. The rods are cut, induction hardened, ground to size, electroplated, machined and lastly the eye is friction welded. We don't use any soft jaws, mostly collet chucks
Well I’m old and most machine shops used tool steel for routine gray iron castings. When tool steel hits a free carbide or an excessively chilled area the tool will break. As for Lodge stuff, I’d give it a file test just so you know what you are dealing with.
In my machine tool days we used special grade un coated inserts for the hard cast iron then In my tool & die days i used that trick to mill 58-60 RC Cpm-m4 And D2 we used CBM on uninterrupted lathe work
Hi, you done a great Job your customer will be very pleased with it what was the grade of material you used ? I’m a new subscriber All the best
Hi, I am unsure of the grade. Guessing 1045 or 1026. The customer supplies the material, whish is far less headache for me.
Need a better camera lol awesome machines just wish the video was nore clear... thanks 😊
Hi Josh, Good video. Do you have a local supplier for chromed rod? What kind of wire and size were you welding with?.....Dave
Hi Dave. The hydraulic jobs come from a hydraulics shop who supplies the materials. Welded with ER70S-6 .045 wire.
Josh how much time do you spend on cleaning up after milling ,drilling and lathe work? I find sometimes it takes me more time cleaning up than it took to machining a part. I have a small shop and only do my own stuff.
the last several months, I have been going steady on just making parts. Cleaning got pushed off, only clean enough to keep going. Now, I spend 30 minutes at the end of every day just tidying up. It has helped considerably. I try to plan some cleanup into each job, then take care of it at the end of the day, so 4-5 jobs are all done at once.
What is the shaft material?
It would be nice to know to cylinders job other than it goes in and out like what type of machine it is off.
I never get that information. Sometimes I get curious, but mostly just care about the pay. Lol
We are always curious too! We rarely get the application information about hydraulic repair jobs. Bummer!
Potato vision. I do appreciate the content and I even more appreciate you sharing. But, as constructive criticism, have you considered investing in slightly higher quality camera equipment? I know you are a machinist and not a videographer, but it would certainly help to not have grainy closeups. Again, I really do appreciate the content and your efforts to put it out to us! Thank you!
I have been upgrading as I can afford it. Check out my latest content.
Australian KZheadr "Cutting Edge Engineering " do plenty of that work znd have great videos
Nicely done. Check out Cutting Edge Engineering Australia to see their techniques for hyd. rofd & cylinders.
I have watched Kurtis. He does a good job.
ceramic for first cut then carbide
I have never had a need to.use ceramic yet. As long as the first cut is deep enough, it cuts fine.
where did you get those threading insert and name of tool holder thanks
I will do a tooling video coming up at some point. Thanks for watching
@@TopperMachineLLC ok thanks
It looks like you have lead screw reverse on your Monarch. Any reason that you don't use it when threading?
Never thought to use it. Might try it sometime, but I prefer the way I do it.
Maybe because he doesn't want to form left-hand threads?
@@TopperMachineLLC I also have done a ton of thread chasing & hyd repairs. My Lodge doesn't have that reverse feature so I know how you probably have the muscle memory set for the way you are used to working. We all have our habits that work for us & that we have confidence in. I also had a similar looking rod repair on a box truck lift gate, so I know how both cylinders need to be the same length. Great job.
how is it that the lathe makes little noise
Monarchs are just that smooth. Others are not as well build and make more noise than the actual cutting.
Gears are not straight cut gears they are mainly helical cut gears in the gear box, that is why they are so quiet.
You'd really wonder how they broke that rod. It must have been really difficult to do.
I bet it was exciting.
I have broken cylinders like that on my excavator thumb cylinder.when I am packing debris into a high side truck it just takes a little mistake for the cylinder to contact the top of the box and snap.
You may want to rethink the long sleeves and jewelry.
Kinda strange that I get adds for “noble x” machine shops during your video... hhhmmm....
Interesting. They must be paying for ads that target videos like mine. Well, don't send them the work, sent it to me.
That shaft almost looks like cast iron.
I guess you have been watching Kurtis
No, I quit watching him a long time ago.
@@TopperMachineLLC not
i never see him use cutting fluid.
How much do you make on recycle ??????????
I really don't know. I'm not in the business of scrapping, just making parts. Usually I give the scrap away. It's honestly a waste of time for me to deal with it. The last time I hauled some in, it wasn't worth my time and fuel. I had 6 ton on the truck.
@@TopperMachineLLC Just seeing the chips made me ask. Thanks
5 cents a pound x 2000= $ 100 a ton x his 6 ton = $ 600. Nice ice cream money to me. Plus add in alum, brass, cast iron and misc. Not bad if your close enough to the scrap yard on a slow day.Thats over 30 cases of beer.
@@edwardkawecki8101 if he runs his shop right that 600 is way less than he could make doing machine work. I do demolition and have heavy equipment that makes it trivial to load and transport 6 tons of scrap. Many jobs I would rather give it away than have to take it in to recycle but I do it because it's part of the job. It takes time to accumulate, load, transport to scrap yard, wait in line, wait to dump, wait to dump different grades of scrap, wait in line to get out, wait to get paid and go back to the shop. I am only half an hour away and it is still a three hour ordeal. When the price of scrap was 300 a ton it was a different story. He probably doesn't want to waste shop space accumulating scrap when someone else will take it for free or pay a little something.
an experienced turner can show pi on his fingers... children can watch you! Don't give them a bad example! Observe safety precautions!
if this was done in Pakistan, they would have welded the old rod and ground it down to fit!
On a dirt floor and using a claw hammer.
@@richardcobb2852 ... they have claw hammers there?
I don't know how they have broken that, very odd.
I was wondering that too. It was definitely bent slightly. I wonder what else was broken or twisted on the machine it was on.
Yeah it appears they got something between the ram and pried it sideways. Certainly not an overload break like you normally see.
Lovely video but may you consider your matric viewers.
Unfortunately, I don't see much of that Metric craziness.
The venomous theory spontaneously claim because trail additonally bless atop a gullible gusty pressure. colorful, flimsy armadillo
It would behoove you to learn the difference between "its" and "it's", and when to use each, because when you misuse them people assume that you aren't too smart, or are poorly educated. Avoid unforced errors.
I know.the difference, autocorrect does not.
@@TopperMachineLLC OK!
no checking to see if it is the correct thread pitch? Shame on you.
You obviously skipped around in the video and missed that part.
I didn't see it either on the first threading pass.
hi mate, thanks for that nice video. i ve got a broken zilynder rot which is broken right there at the head . there is still a bitt of the welding on an a bit of the crome rod and ther is still a bit of the center bolt showing out. means when i put the broken one on the head it can be still centered with the center bilt looking out, does that make sence? so my question in this situation is it kpollible to weld the crome rod back on or is a full repalcement nesessarry ? thanks for feedback