ABANA National Curriculum 1.4 - Tapers?
A look at 5 different tapers.
For the tapers they will in grow in length from the base stock as the taper is drawn out. In order of growth they are:
Base Stock (Shortest)
Chisel
Square
Octagonal
Round (Longest)
The final lengths of the tapers can be calculated using the following formulas.
Non Tapered Vol = L * W * H
Square (Pyramid) Vol = (L * W * H) / 3
Octagonal (Pyramid) Vol = 2 * (1 + sqrt(2)) / (3 * L * L * H)
Round (Cone) Vol = 3.14 * radius * radius (H / 3)
Chisel (Prism) Vol = volume = 0.5 * b * h * length, where b is the length of the base of the triangle, h is the height of the triangle, and length is prism length
SOR method = Square, Octagon, Round
Curriculum Requirements:
1.4 - TAPERS (square, octagon, round, chisel tip and diamond)
1.4.1 Student should understand how and where to hold material on the anvil to draw
down tapers. The use of tongs should be introduced. Use of the slack tub should be
introduced.
1.4.2 The square, octagon, round rule (SOR) should be understood
1.4.3 Student to demonstrate the knowledge of SOR and how progressing through the
stages effects the length of the taper
1.4.4 Produce samples of round, square and diamond tapers that are same length,
straight sided with the ends centered along the center-line of the parent bar.
Filmed at Pioneer Farms in Austin TX:
www.pioneerfarms.org/
I love that you did this. Good review for after class.
Very good! The one thing you should have mentioned is to make sure your square bar doesn't develop a trapezoid angle as well? It can happen sometimes and is very difficult to correct at times.
That's a good point. Maybe I'll make a short supplemental video on that. It's good to know how to recognize and fix diamonds.
Thank you very much for showing how to use the horn to make the point!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done, Phil, another good video. Consider this ticked off on your ABANA instructor checklist.
:) Great Thanks!
..Nice job on those tapers sir. Then there is the elusive Triangle Taper that drives me batty...
I don't think I've ever tried a triangle taper. I can see how that would be tough. It would be hard to keep it all even.
Nice, I'd never seen a diamond taper before, very cool!
I don't do them very often. They look nice though.
As a beginning blacksmith, I find the hardest most irritating thing to do is making a sharp pointed taper. Most times, I end up with a cold shut that has to be cut off. Your video here is very helpful!
Are you normally tapering wide or thick stock? There are a few tricks to that can prevent the cold shunts.
Forge on. God bless.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Been a self taught blacksmith for a few years. Does one have to take formal courses to receive ABANA certifications?👍
You don't have to take a formal course but you do need a certified instructor to sign off on your work which will involve some level of working with an instructor. Some may want you to take a course some may be willing to look at your work. You can find the level 1 course material here: abana.org/education/national-curriculum/level-i/. There seem to be problems with a number of links on the ABANA page currently but you should be able to find local instructors on that page also. It's a pretty new program so there aren't that many yet. They are offering a zoom course for the level 1 work if you are interested in that.
@@WatersIronworks Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work 👍
With that first taper… if you don’t use the horn and instead use the face of the anvil, you don’t run any risk of over fullering your taper smaller that you mean to. You also hone your hammer skills if you use the face. You also don’t shift center of taper too far one way or the other and have more consistency over the face. You also learn to control how to best hold your workpiece at angles when using the face. Use the horn for 3 things; round bends, drawing out length of material down to smaller cross section, and to make set downs fullered in specific sections…. Not your best and most skillful option for generating a clean taper.
Until shortly before this video, I did all my tapers as you suggest on the face of the anvil. Since I've started using the horn more frequently, I've found it to be faster and as accurate. I picked this up based on a recommendation from Mark Asprey. Check out this video by Mark to see him using the technique: kzhead.info/sun/q7mJfZ2dpJeFjY0/bejne.htmlsi=osJ-dlPAuhrhvGlT
Was that 5/8" bar you used?
1/2 inch if I remember correctly.