DIY Concrete Foundation for a Garage or Shed (With Curb Wall!)
#EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
This is a diy concrete foundation we did for a garage. The garage slab was 16' x 24'. You could use this slab foundation for a shed also.
We added a two foot high curb wall to the foundation slab so the exterior could be back filled higher than the slab height.
To learn how to install concrete slabs like we do, you can either join The Concrete Underground or get my Concrete Slab Course below.
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You’re a treat to watch. Plain, simple, concise, informative. It’s really nice to watch a crew who truly cares about the outcome- not just running to the bank to cash the check. Thank you.
It's amazing how the pros can make hard work look so easy. I'm glad you mention using a water reducer in the videos where you use it as I was concerned when I started watching your videos that pouring the mud that loose would affect the strength. Great tip. Keep the videos coming. Nice job.
I had lay very little concrete in my younger years but I had enjoy doing that. You guys make look so easy but is not, you have to be always on time and moving. Great job !! thanks for the video.
Exactly the dimensions, door placements and orientation of my garage! Nice job Mike.
Thank you for taking the time to film & explain it. Very informative!
Watching Mike's videos makes me wish my guidance counselors talked about jobs like this instead of pushing college or military. Proud of my military service and 23 years in public safety, but I would love to earn a living doing this stuff.
Don't be sad little buddy , just because you lived off the taxpayer your whole life doesn't make you less of a man
This brings us back to our good old days when all our jobs were 3 people max. Thank you for this !
mike i like watch'n your stuff . . . no rocket science, no pandering just common sense, knowing your material and specs then getting it done. . . proper.
Hey Mike have poured a lot of concrete in my day usually we inset a 2x4 tapered on each side for a keyway found that this helps prevent cold joints
WHERE?
@ZAPATTUBE either middle of your footings or middle of where the wall will go.
What is a keyway in concrete? 2x4 tapered on each end? I'm a shade tree, can that be explained..... Thanks
@@ChipsPlace1952 the 2x4 laid in the floor where the wall will go so as to create a channel and help lock in the wall. Tapered on either side so it's easy to remove the 2x4.
Wire mesh is the most ineffective slab reinforcements one could use. I removed a slab I placed 30 years ago and almost all of the mesh was rusted and corroded. The only good thing was that it made it easier to demo. Pulling up on the mesh is pointless when the finishers step right into the concrete afterwards, pushing it back down to the ground. The best reinforcement is #4 rebar set at an 18" on-center grid with dobies at 36" on-center; 2" dobies for a 4" slab and 3" dobies for a 6" slab. Also, forget the fiber-mesh, the best crack control is saw cutting the control joint grooves a day or two later at 1/3 of the depth of the slab; 1-3/8" for a 4" slab, and 2" for a 6" slab and dividing up the surface area into a maximum of 7 foot by 7 foot squares. One of the best methods of crack control I can tell you is to take your 2" x 5" margin trowel and push in down into the slab at all joint locations where the control joint meets a structure, drain, form, or at the beginning and the end of the joint. This insures the cracks to follow the joints and gets the saw cut closer to the end of the joint where the saw can't reach. Authored by Steve Milovich GC of 42 years
Perfect for my side shed plans in the Burbs on a slope.
Good to hear that Maine accent once again. Thanks for posting. Great job.
Really nice work Mike ! 💪🏼💯💪🏼
You guys are pros and it shows.
Nice work. I like the smooth knee walls.
You’re a bad man! Great work Mike
Comments are hilarious. This is not a Condo in FL..... It's a frickin' garage.... Nice work.... I have done a few slabs and my work is a joke compared to the efforts here. And some are 20 years old with no issues. Nice content, very educational, and a chick on the team to boot. Awesome....
Great video! Now I'm motivated to get out there and do my project!
This was really fun watching you guys. I really enjoyed it. Thanks a lot
Glad you enjoyed it!
fantastic craftsmanship!!!
Very nice. Nice you showed a different way. Some try to pour all one.
That looks awesome! I’m doing my next garage like that
I have been spring forms for a slab that I’m pouring tomorrow. The home owner did the sub grade himself and it was river rock with maybe three inches of sand over it. It was almost impossible to drive stakes. It took forever. I ended up just driving them held back and using shims to get the forms in place. He also wanted me to use lumber that he cut himself. It was rough cut so no planing. And the edges were not flat. It took a while before I realized why I couldnt get my forms to match my string line. I ended up planing the top edge of all the forms myself.
Awesome job guys. I didn’t know you did walks as well. Those aluminum forms are a beautiful thing. We use 1 1/8” plywood panels. 4 bar 8’ and every thing else under 8’ including 2’ stackers
Good video. Made it look easy.
I do Concret in Indiana, you guys did a nice job.
It looks great👍
Wow ur a great teacher. Great video
“DIY”…first 30 seconds….hired excavator….hired Mike Day.
You could still rent an excavator and do everything yourself.
Hired concrete truck 😆
If you think your gonna poor a full on garage fondation with a hand mixer and concrete pouches
@@reminoel483 These DIY concrete guys probably can't mix a yard by hand in a day. Let them dream.
@@flocksbyknight Dude, you’ve got ZERO clue… 🤣👉🏼🤡
Ya made that slab pour look easy. My old man said pour on sand the slab will never crack as the clay wont expand or contract it and crack . He used to do Mega structures... We use chairs and for the Rebar and more steel in Australia..
Great job. Guess this can be used even for a house or pole barn construction
Excellent video!! Thank you.
Wow, beautiful!
Love that Maine accent! Been too long since I've visited Bangor. Greetings from your friends in Nova Scotia! Great video.
Thanks! 😃
Great job! I wish you were in my area. I would definitely hire you. I have a couple concrete jobs I want done and am planning a garage in a year and it’s hard to find someone that cares to do quality work in my area. Enjoyed watching the video. Thanks
Nice job Mike...
Those aluminum forms are nice
That was beautiful and clean - I feel like I should build a house every day, just so I can see concrete poured and coming out beautiful like this -
Nice, very tidy work.
That's another level ...
Lady was amazing better then many apprentice 🍷🍷🍷🌹🌹🌹🌹👌👌👌👌👍
Nice job well done.
You are the King when it comes to concrete my man.
Love aluminum forms. Kinda crazy that ties are hard to come by now
Tia had a really good go,hats off to her
Great work!!
Good work. Thank you.
Nice job guys
Nice job mike .
Great job
Thanks for the video
Mike, thought monolithic slab would be continuous pour, slab and walls. Like your videos.Thanks
Hey That’s the size garage I’m looking to get. If you feel like coming to Jersey I have some work. Excellent video
Do you guys do full basements? I'm looking to build a house in Wales and if thats something you do, I'd love to call to get a quote. This video was all I needed to tell me you guys would be the people for the job. Nice work.
Great job!!!
A job well done!
Nice work
Really nice job.
very nice work.
What do you use for screws Mike. We have been using timber lock screws. Love those things. Bought two big boxes bout 18 months ago, and prolly only lost a small handful since then.
Thank you
Hey Nice workmanship and video. I would like to have this type Monolithic slab poured for a garage same size as this video. I’m in Jersey.
thats really nice
great job
Good job . I like it.
Hi Mike, Have you ever done concrete for an in ground basketball pole/backboard?
Great Video. Thanks!!
Thank you
From one Day to another Day, howdy.
Very useful info! 1st question: how much does something like this cost? (Ballpark) and 2: you mentioned Maine and the use of materials in your mix. With that climate zone, does the mix of materials replace having to "tie in" the monolith slab into the Earth below the Frostline? I imagine the Frostline is likely below 48" there. If it was DIY and you didn't have the fancy ingredients, could you also use vertical rebar into the frostline depths? Or would something more substantial be required?
Hello. Does the course you're selling take into consideration soil type, weather conditions, etc? I am in the Catskills and it gets quite cold in winter (frost depth estimated to be around 50"). The soil is very very rocky, too. Would a simple slab be sufficient or do I need some kind of special considerations?
Nice job.
Yeah, those lasers are really great. Minimum fiddling required. I tell you, that slab looks more like 8 to 9 inches thick if those are 2×12s. That thing definitely ain't going anywhere. I normally don't put rebar in any slabs with fiber. I just pour them about 4 to 4.5 inches thick and I've never had any problems with them. It's a special case or customer request normally when I do use rebar. I guess it is a good insurance policy though. EDIT: I just heard you say you're in Maine so is that the reason for the rebar, all the freeze/thaw movement going on?
Great video
It's like meditation to watch your videos. Do the concrete forms pop right after when it's time to remove them? Or do you have to nudge them off? Have been curious about that.Thx.
Very nice!
I want to volunteer to work for this guy for a couple of jobs so I can learn how to do concrete properly.
Great videos! I'm still learning what all is needed in foundations and I'm wondering, would the metal mesh on the slab always sit on the ground and not be "suspended" in the concrete, like the walls or footings?
They sell what's called a "rebar chair" which is a small plastic piece that you can use to suspend the rebar while pouring, but in the video he says he is pulling up on the mesh as they pour. The guy walking over it while pouring is pushing it right back down though, it would seem.
Looks great...This is in Maine? Aren't there codes for depths of footings and freeze depths up there? Down here in Mass., anything with a roof and/or decks must have 4' depths.
Is there a video of you setting up the forms for the wall?
I'm lucky I have a great concrete supplier Osbourne, they have never rushed us, they just ask that the wheelbarrow never stops moving. Great company to work with if your in southeast Michigan! Little shout out to my boys!
10:50 Tip top, bravo .... :- )
I've always been curious about these kind of foundations. Do they heave in cold climates?
I remember that wire mesh came in rolls, you needed a man to stand on one end while we rolled out the rest, a new guy even when it was explained to him why. . .occasionally walk away, distracted by something, then there was screaming, jumping outta the way, pandemonium, profanity, and now we say, “the good old days.” 😂😀🤔
we still use them every once in a while. You only step off the wire once lol
Just curious to you prefer a key way for the kneewall
will this work for a house? (codes) Or do you do it the other way around. Pour the footer (tall) and then fill in the slab. Sorta a short basement or finished crawl space.
Just get a 16ft screed much easier to screed from the outside. Even with a 14ft if you just borrow it back and forth. Come out flatter too. I carry a 10-12-14-16 and a 12ft magic screed on my truck. As for the wall do a keyway and water-stop bentonite. Other than that you guys work well together.
Is the knee wall slump thicker than the floor pour? Thanks Mike.
Would you do the same thing for a 40 by 60 shop? I live in Canada so I’m not sure if I should do monolithic slab or do a frost wall. If I do a slab I’d want a small concrete curb
QUESTION can you just have the knee wall on footings to leave the ground free of concrete maybe pour stone? would this be foundationally sound? For Central Ontario Canada
Saw that you lifted the wire reinforcement during the pour, but then 2 men walked in the concrete while screening. I would think that walking on the reinforcement wire would negate the lifting--oes not seem like a good practice?
This kind of the way we build foundations in Romania. The difference is on the edge it goes down in the ground 48" minimum. At the bottom at he trench and at the slab level there are 9 1/2" rebars forming like a cage and becoming two beams (one at the bottom and one at the top. If you would look in the cross section it will be like an I-beam with rebar enforcement at the top and bottom. Then for the slab there is rebar going in both direction 3/8" (10mm) every 4" (100mm). The poor is continuous for the walls and slab.
That's a rugged slab for sure. Thanks for sharing!
@@MikeDayConcrete Here is a youtube movie in romanian but you can see the images kzhead.info/sun/bK6opManrn1tZo0/bejne.html It's for a house, not a business or anything. Note interior foundation walls where the interior walls of the house will sit on.
@@MikeDayConcrete Here is another example: kzhead.info/sun/d6eKgtKXnmmdmoE/bejne.html
Your frost line is much deeper….
@@rickkriz8901 Nope. For Romania is between 0.7 to 1.2m. I gave 48" which is 1.2m. Did you do some research before speaking?
Do you nail the aluminium forms to the wood forms for the curbs walls? And is the inside aluminun form screw to the slab? Thank you
To everyone commenting on chairs...plastic chairs usually break when people walk on them. Dobies can create voids. Not to mention trying to wheel on chairs or dobies. Pulling up the wire is fine. I have done many tear outs where the wire is on the ground. It was not pulled up. When I pour...I pull it up and double check as I’m pouring by looking at the bar that has not been covered in concrete. Give it an extra yank before I walk back in it to screed. It NEVER sinks all the way to the ground. The aggregate settles underneath it. Usually when you find wire on the ground it’s because people get in a hurry and FORGET TO PULL IT UP. People ask how is this monolithic? The slab has thickened edges that will be below finished grade. Theirs no need for 48” . As others have stated it’s a floating floor...that’s why the walls are on TOP of the slab. He did put in L bars and I’m sure he put them in more than just the corners. You twist the L bar so it becomes a part of the slab. Also, commenters, what kind of strength would tying flimsy wire to the upright or horizontal floor add?? Nothing. I live in Nebraska..48” frost line is not required for a floating slab under 500 square feet. It’s detached and we’re not parking tanks or semis on it. It’s a one story SHED. Sorry to mention a competitor Mike, but watch Dave Odell. The guys a serious professional and NEVER uses chairs or dobies. I’m not sure if people are trying to “show off” with all of the knowledge they have...but a lot of the comments are ridiculous.
Hi from Russia Good Job
I live in texas now from ct building a 8x8x6x10" thick walls, above ground shelter with 5"thick roof . How thick should foundation be? DIY project
Mike..anazing vids. So the curb/knee/stem wall is not flush with the outside edge of the slab? Water draining down garage wall will hit the outside 2" of slab since curb wall is inset 2 inches?Nevermind, you had the outer perimeter forms sitting on top of the 2x10's. Got it. Looks great.
That's the form board. He set his panels on it. We stripped it off afterwards.
We want to put in a meta 30x30 garage but our land is sloped . The garage doors will be on the slope . My question is what is the best way to level the ground before pouring concrete slab . Should I do a footer and concrete blocks to keep out the water from the upper side? Just trying to figure out best way to do this.
Mike why don’t you use chairs under mesh,don’t you find when you hook it up the mesh is still down low , then u stand on it pushing it down more,we have mesh about 35mm below top of concrete good video
IF you are pulling up the rebar or steel as you go along aren't you pushing it back down when you are walking back on the areas you had pulled it up?
Do you show how to install the exterior man door for this structure? I have a garage with one course block that the walls sit on. So when installing an exterior door the sheathing makes the door brick mold stick out from the blocks on the bottom of the wall. Then there is a gap. What the proper way to install exterior door when you have this type of block/sheathing wall?