$500 Fordson Super Major Backhoe | Will it START and DRIVE?
Today on the channel I help a buddy out who is the proud(?) new owner of this Fordson Super Major backhoe. This is also known as a Ford 5000 tractor and has a 3.6L diesel and was made in England. Kind of a cool piece of history, but will it start and drive out of here?
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I enjoyed the process. I have never seen anyone less committed to applying ether before. I have literally started and ran a diesel engine on ether until it was running on properly on diesel. Did you try to pull it? it could be that the "brake" is seized.
I just viewed a PBS segment on the Iowa PBS called "Tractor Wars" and Henry Ford got into the tractor game and because the Board of Directors (this was before Henry Ford snookered them and got control of the company) opposed Ford Motor Company getting into farm tractors. So he formed Fordson (meant Ford and Son) tractors. He got control of tractor sales until International Harvester introduced the Farmall line of tractors ( this was the low price end of the market making tractors affordable to the small farmer market). Any way as Henry Ford lost share of the market he moved Fordson production over to England and I think those tractors were produced up until the 1960's. The video is really educational and it is available on the You Tube Channel as well as PBS.
I just watched that video.
The little button on the shut off lever is the cold start button
The fordson major & super major were two of the most reliable tractors built in the late 1940’s to early 1960’s and replaced by the Ford 5000, 🇬🇧🇮🇪 All of these were built in UK at Basildon Essex NR London. 🇬🇧
I haven’t screamed at a KZhead video for a long time! Thanks!! More ether sooner and lift the wheels!! The clutch is frozen in the disengaged position
Yup
Triple that. Drag it free
Driven Majors all my life and that is not a Super Major engine as it has the pneumatic governor pump on it. That engine is from an earlier tractor. Another way to tell if the tractor is a Super Major is the brakes, Majors and then Power Majors both had drum brakes whereas the Super had disc brakes. The button on the stop lever on the pump is the 'cold start' button which gives the rack a little more travel and boosts the fuel delivery. These engines are the easiest engine in the world to start, cold or hot. I reckon you need to have that pump looked at and fire a set of injectors in it. You also need a clutch plate in it too by the sounds of it. It WILL reward you because the Fordson (Henry Fords son) Major was the best, most durable tractor Ford ever made.
Actually Super majors had the pneumatic pump it's the later blue/grey ones that had the mechanical governor
Looks like a power major it’s got the later dash and the vacuumed govenor they only made that model for 2 years
I have the same tractor, you have to prime the pump. Also we put an in line water heater in main radiator hose. Prepares the block after a half hour or so. Starts right up
Hopefully Lord Muck chimes in, He knows these Fordsons very well. Love your channel, keep it up!
If they want to contact me I'll happily go through it step by step. First thing they need is more ether - how much ? ALL of it 🫳
Thanks!
What’s the prognosis?
@@dieseJL Well if his 1st answer is 'more ether' then I wouldn't be following his advice. Your tractor has good compression by the sound of it. You need to source a decent pump and injectors as these are the simplest, most reliable engines Ford made. Get a clutch in it too.
@@WeeShoeyDugless I know I'd rather follow his advice than yours. Good compression ? 🙄
When you first opened the side inspection cover of the pump the second to the lift injector lift is stuck.
Nothing gets by you 🤣
@@dieseJL. I wish I could help more.
Thanks for the video, great to see the major. I think it's more likely a 1958-60 Fordson power major base unit as normally the brake shafts on a super are a different for a farm tractor, I don't know if they fitted different ones for the industrial in that location, some had brake drums on the axle end right behind the wheels. You'd have to find casting codes and engine/serial number to actually date it. That governor system is vacuum operated, you need the rubber hose connecting the inlet to the air filter for it to work right, and the air filter needs to be clean and filled to the correct level of oil, and make sure the rubber diaphragm under the end where the 2 metal lines go in the end of the injector pumps good as well. No oil in the trans/rear axle won't affect drive, as it doesn't have a shuttle or torque. It may be frozen, the brakes stuck or something failed jamming it if it's been run dry long enough. The gearbox and rear axle oils are totally separate. Gearbox oil is the large plug by steering arm, with high low level written in casting just by the bottom of plug. The rear axle is the dipstick you found and fill plug is on top of rear axle cover so you need to check both. It's not un common for the gearbox upper rear and lower pto seals to fail and let the oil in the rear axle as the gearbox oil level is much higher. the rear PTO output shaft seal also fails letting rear axle oil out if It's still fitted with the backhoe on it. Don't scrap it it's a collectors item to the right guy even if you don't want it, I'd buy it for $1000 if it was close to me in Canada.
Agreed, It can be a very useful tractor.
No more ether
Pretty tough crowd. Hard starting and running could be down a valve not seating. Poor injector or poor primary pump pressure. Compression check, fresh fuel and rebuild the mechanical fuel pump won't cost much. Work out if the clutch mechanism is functioning and or the brakes are seized. With the bucket and back hoe, it's worth sticking with it a bit longer. Lots of online info on that era of Sims injector pump including vacuum? governor. Mine has a cold start button that helps. Dumps extra fuel in.
Tyler you're a good friend !
You guys did great. Fun to watch you work. I was thinking you could have tried putting the outriggers down to lift the rear tires.
Great tractor we have one here in the UK use it for working the log spitter. Perkins engine last for ever,good luck with it.
it looked like it was sticking at the rear wheels. why didn't you hook it to your truck and drag it to free the brakes?
There's a cold start button on the end of the speed control linkage on the Simms fuel pump. If you press that in you'll hear a clunky as the rack goes to max position. I've had the rack seize as you found but the one we had was always a pretty good starter.
Start from the fuel filters then work along to each injector after you have fuel from the filters to injection pump it will start straight away 🇬🇧🇮🇪
A trailer and a winch. Get it on home territory. It wants to run just needs a lot of TLC.
had a fordson power major made in england, had books etc from previous owner, same engine ran and moved eventually i had to buy parts from england. loved the big big rear tires. was better than a massey fergusan. same fuel problem start from pump and work your way up. found some replacement parts also ebayavailable on ebay.
My late brother also had a 1968 Ford 4500 diesel tlb good little outfit
Press in the little button on the shut off lever.Throttle needs to be fully open for the button to engage. There was also a six cylinder version engine mainly fitted to Thames Trader trucks. I learned to drive in one of them
Fun video forced started on ether good job guys
Save it. Might come in handy some day.
I was surprised has old as it is that the boom,stick,backhoe bucket will stay up and the out riggers. In my humble opinion I think with a bit of work it would make a pretty good backhoe , Hoses will be needed I went through this on my old John Deere 300 backhoe. I worked it to enough to pay for it and all the parts. All my best.
good job well done 'you should have put new fuel filter on first ;i found out the hard way keep up the good work good buddy
Whenever you get a fire from diesel, gasoline or starting fluid, never blow on fire. Always smother with shirt, towel etc. to have a fire you need fuel and oxygen, blowing makes it worse. Great video. First time watching. Really enjoyed it
Thanks!
Damn, I want one!
Did not see you push in the cold start button on the Simms by the shut off lever. Those engines normally start on the button even in winter conditions.
Yeah didn’t know it had that. That’s the button on the shutoff?
@@dieseJL Yes indeed, it releases the rack a little further to increase fuel delivery. Automatically cancels as soon as the tractor starts👍🏻👍🏻🏴🇬🇧
Not a critic but I wish he would be sprayed the ether at longer intervals I’ve found spray a solid spray for a few seconds and most old diesels will crank right up great video though
Yeah it was hard to watch.
I am at 10:30. That is an old diaphragm regulated SIMMS Minivac injection pump. It works with a vacuum difference that is generated at the intake manifold with that flap. So your throttle pedal should go to that intake flap. The lever you are trying work is just a shutoff lever and the button on it is a force-feeding for cold start. Now for the pump to work of course you need make sure that everything like the rack which you can access from the side cover is moving freely. The lines going from the injection pump to the intake flap need to be open, not leaking or broken. The diaphragm as it gets older will start to leak which causes either unresponsive throttle or no throttle at all or it is all over the place. Diaphragm is cheap and very easy to swap and I highly suggest doing it anyway. The lever is likely loose, because it is stuck in off position, it will get harder to turn once the engine runs and touches the "rack". Ok let's see how you solve this :D EDIT: I have now watched the video and a few things. The diaphragm is definitely leaking because your throttle is so unresponsive, or the lines are clogged. The injection pump has it's own oil so you should chance it and hope that you don't need to replace the shaft seal. Lack of power overall can be from low compression and bad injectors. However the engine is running quite smooth and isn't smoking too bad so I think the issue is the pump. Take of the valve cover and see the injectors and valves. The injection pump is really dirty. You can clean it by taking the tophalf off which contains the elements and disassemble + clean it. Flush the lower part and chance oil frequently. Chance the return springs for the element, they will brake if they have rust on them. Clean the elements with really fine scotch brite if they still have rust on them.
the 4th injector jumping up and down could be due to broken hold down bolts, also could be the source of the blow by
The Major does not need transmission fluid as such. No torque converter. Just top up normal gear box and rear axle as required. Did need more oil for the hydraulics which is usually from from the rear end . Engine oil used throughout.
Engine oil used throughout in a Major?? Whoever told you that? Baaaad advice mate.
@@WeeShoeyDugless It is in the Fordson manual. Original spec is 20 weight for everything, gearbox, hydraulics, engine, back end, air filter etc.
Actually the Fordson manual recommends Rx Super which is ENGINE oil 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂@@WeeShoeyDugless
@@Titan604 My dads new 1955 Major (no hydraulics) came straight from the factory with gear oil in the gearbox and diff. Can't understand why that would be in the manual but, I still have the manual, so will have a look👍🏻
@@WeeShoeyDugless It was done to reduce running costs for the farmer. You did not need to buy and store different oils, so one spare can for topping things up was all that was required.
That fordson can not be beat it will out last newer ones of today.
Sure, without the comfort you'd need in order to run machine all day every week every month every year...
@@gnaedigerfels its always nice to sit and drive a fordson
To find out about Fordson watch the Iowa PBS " tractor wars " , it's as entertaining as your video's . And over here in England a Super Major with no front loader or backhoe is around £4000 - £5000 ( $4500 - $5500 ) . So $500 is a giveaway price even iff it needs $500 to $1000 spending on it you'd still have a bargain when done .
They must be cheaper over here or something. I was at an estate auction last year and there was a super major (I think? I'm not the best with the english models.) The late owner was a mechanic for the state highway department and had apparently rebuilt the head on the tractor, tires were all nice and she was all around in good shape except the dents on the nose cone and the "one eye" aesthetic. Sale price was 800 dollars. I haven't a clue why the Ford dealers over here were selling Ford and Fordsons at the same time, but the former is a whole lot easier to get parts for over here lol.
The tractor has a rusted shaft or something in the rear end put in reverse & pop the clutch a few times to shock it loose.Worked on my 9N same problem it had like that one.
Did you get it rolling? Definitely looked like the brakes were froze, lord knows Ive had that many times lol
As an ex used ford dealer this was painful to watch these are such a simple tractor to get going when you have some knowledge
I own one of them. It still runs the decompression. Leaver has to be down for the motor to start. It will not start on the undeapmode. It has to be down that's only to get the motor turning , and you have to prime the injector pump
Ford motor company (board) forbid Henry Ford from making Ford tractors so he started a new company Ford and Son or Fordson. He loved tractors and farm equipment.
I recommend watching the documentary "tractor wars" from Iowa PBS, very interesting video about tractors and how ford, international, john Deere and many others started.
water in the transmission can freeze up and lock up the gears
the injection pump is a pheumatic version with a diaphragm and uses pressure from the inlet manifold with a butterfly valve similar to a carb
the injector pump rubber diaphram could be gone and need replacement
Interesting video. As others have said, contact Lord Muck as he's always messing around with Fordsons and is a helpful guy
The welders are usually very good, this chap left a lot to be desired.
should put your stabilizers down and lift your wheels off the ground. See if you can make them spin then.
Put the back actor down and drag it about with the bucket should free the brakes but the clutch is slipping that vacuum valve is probably full of shit or perished
Compression lever is up. Our tractors the lever went down much further. Also the injector did hav problems seizing.
500 buck is not bad. Needs work but hey can't beat that.
Great video guys. FYI @16:32 there is incredible drain on the alternator of your truck. If your boosting vehicle has 2 huge batteries and the engine being boosted is small, it is probably OK. However, if the boosting vehicle has a single battery and the engine being boosted is large, the alternator is desperately trying to maintain battery voltage over 13.5V. You will get away with this for a while but eventually it will take out your alternator.
You have to take the plug out of the top of the injector pump right there in the middle and pump it until fuel comes out of there. It will not start on ether all you can do is lock it up
As a car dealer said to me: "It was bought new" and "It ran when it was driven to where it is parked" 🤠
If I remember correct you are in high gear! Push down on handle below the dash. It is a high/low handle
I tried that and it didn’t make a difference
Pull up the lever for low range on that model Major, only the 'Super' (which that isn't!!) was down for low range. The early Majors and the Power Major (which I'm pretty sure this is based on) were both up for low range.👍🏻
@@WeeShoeyDugless Not quite, Live drive PTO H is up. Standard PTO H is down. Either one could be fitted from Power Major onwards depending on customer preference, so power or super could be either down or up for low range depending on PTO fitted.
@@Titan604 Never owned a Power Major with live drive so I stand corrected. That base Major isn't a Super Major as we know them in the UK just the same.
@@WeeShoeyDugless low range is up on a dead drive witch this would be as has no rear hydraulics, live drive high range is up as i have lots of fordson even a 1953 with live drive original from the factory, live drive was thou all the 4 ranges as i have a 1964 blue grey that has a dead drive box
Those engines are super cheap and easy to rebuild (wet liners). We can buy the rebuild kits for around AU$500 out of England, probably cheaper for you guys. That engine looks worn right out to me. They have quite good disc brakes, probably been left with the park brake on and stuck the linings.
Ether!!! Giver her some, it was almost running!
Id use the backhoe to lift the rear wheels off the ground and try spinning the wheels by hand. Then by motor. The way the engine idles down or stalls when trying to seems to make mevthink clutch is working
If the hydraulics work, i guess i would have tried to lower the outriggers or the boom to get the rear wheels off the ground. That could have helped to loosen the breaks or gear train and get the drive clutch to stick if you don't have the tractor weight fighting against you as well. But seriously, this backhoe is more of a side project for "fun". If you actually want something to do work with, it has a bit too many issues that cost a lot of money and time to fix for it to be reliable again.
I didn't read the comments but the rack sounded like it was stuck in the stop position and this was a common issue. also it's about a 1956 model. the round plug one the side of the gearbox is the oil level for the gearbox the dipstick is for the rear end and had oil. all take sae 30 oil
You have to prime the injector pump the bolt right there in the top of the top. Get fuel to come out of there
I'd Say the QUALITY-TIME You and CHRIS had together is Worth $500 even if was Depressing...LIFE isn't All-About WINNING... Sometimes You have to Lose some Battles and in End...You Learn-Lessons from Both!!! If in End do decide to take to Scrap-Yard I would Save Wheels&Tires and take to Yard that has Capability to Lift-Off with Big-Machine💪👍
its a power major or diesel major as it has drum brakes, the trans brake is on, the bolt head bung in front of the dip stick is gear box level & dip stick is for rear end, the button on the stop lever is for cold start, take the rocker cover off and do the tow 1/2" bolts up so it hold the injector into seat in the cylinder head as its losing compression on that cylinder, it might need the timeing adjusted thats done on the injector pump coupling by undoing two 1/2" bolts and moving it in the elong gated holes
Did you ever put fluid in the transmission, some won't move without it
I would put some warm transmission fluid in it to melt any ice that is in the tranny.
total rubbish theres on a diff in there and brake shafts wont stop it moving
Excess fuel button on the pump also needs the throttle lever to be fully open to ensure the button stays in ! Full marks for perseverance. This tractor must be an exception to Lord Mucks rule that engines do not get hooked on ether ?.🤔
old inline pumps are notorious for producing too low a injection pressure until the either raises the cranking speed, old farm tractors we would tow start them, huge cranking speed. 🤪
Could you have a stuck valve on cylinder 3?
Going off of the ice in the bucket, no oil in the transmission, and the rust on the stick, you’ve got a transmission full of ice. It’s a wild guess, but it could explain being locked in place!
Did you put transmission fluid in it?
This thing was quite the clip
Great content! This is a level I sometimes go to,and should leave the machine go. But I don't, I bring it home and save it. Even knowing the machine will never return my money. Keep up the great work! A loyal subscriber.
I don’t think it’s over yet but… it needs some work
@@dieseJL A pump and a set of injectors and you're on the home run! Believe me, worked with and driven them all my life (I'm 69 yrs old) BTW, pretty sure it is a Power Major, it still has the pneumatic governor on the injection pump.
And you said at the beginning of this video that there wasn't any transmission fluid in the tractor
Well you did a few things wrong. I noticed the #3 pump was stuck an hour before you spotted it. Also don't try to start these diesels on idle revs, they need lots of fuel, and the cold start button helps. . . . It's not as if you will foul your sparkplugs with excess fuel. It also looks as if the brakes are stuck, and maybe you have now burnt the clutch out. If you can lift the rear wheels, then maybe that will help release the brakes, otherwise you need to take the brakes apart.
Sorry guys to watch your video this late. Few hints for a gearbox, the multiplier (aka high - low ratio) lever is that horizontal lever that comes out on the right side of dashboard. I don't remember any more excatly how it works, but probably low ratio is on when lever is upper position and high ratio when lever is down position. Also I don't remember for sure, if the has middle position, which is free-position.
Well, that may be why it was at a junk yard. Good job getting it running though
Just started watching this and seen the little gem at the side red one
Hey tyler, where is the estate at? I might be interested if there is any more farm related equipment/machines. Congrats on 50k bud! All i know about those Super majors is there are quite a few around but the injection pump systems where Fimicky
Thanks! I think everything there is spoken for
That poor thing has probably had more use in its' life time than its' had maintenance. Sadly some people just use things until they're no longer worth fixing.
Chris this is what we do for fun
I had fun 🤣
You Andy mustie diesel creel. Fun fun. Fun😊😊😊
Hey try using the backhoe to move it back and forth I had a backhoe that did the same thing so we flush the hydraulic system can we put new in and then we use the backhoe part to move it back and forth and then it should start moving on it's own
Take out injectors clean and put marvel mystery oil in cylinders to hopefully loosen rings and call area diesel service
Shocking😂
She likes the Ether Bunny
They don't need it, even worn engines on these Majors were easy starters.
Take the valve cover off and check the injectors and rocker arms adjustment
How can you not hear hydraulic pump wining low on oil
that Fordson Major has to be a early mid 50's because the decompression level we had 62'Fordson 5000 Major diesel it didn't have a decompression but my brothers older Fordson Major it had
You squirt either spin on decomp and flick lever
A push rod bent, from dumping all that ether down it. The 'loose' injector on number four isn't actually loose, that's just a rubber block where the line goes under the valve cover, the actual injector is bolted into the top of the head under the valve cover. Fixing the push rod isn't that difficult, just loosen up the rocker arms and pull it out, the straighten it with a torch and check it off a flat surface, then stop feeding it that much ether so it doesn't bend again.
You probably have zNO hydraulic fluid in tsank. Ck it Good luck!@@
I own several of these Majors, that rubber block is the oil seal to stop the oil coming out where the injector fits through the side of the head. That piece in the middle of the rubbers a 2" long adapter that screws tight into the injector under the rocker cover. There is 2 bolts hold that injector tight in the head for it to move that much somethings loose. It might of cracked the lines on the leak off pipe as well letting fuel leak into the motor oil, a lot of that blow by is probably from the loose injector. Fordson Manuals also state do not use the decompressor lever as a starting aid like they did as internal damage may result even without ether . I've seen loads of them where guys do it, and one day it decides to bend push rods. guys also argue this on a lot of forums that it's a starting aid like a single cylinder diesel, if so whys it in the factory book not to do it .
Try filling that injector pump with 10 weight oil and run it a while it might come around
I have 3 Ford tractors and neither like to start when the temperature is below 45 degrees for some reason. What was your temp when you started?
It was pretty warm maybe 45
@@dieseJL Get your pump gone over, when one of the viens stick, you never really have them recover 100%. I'd whip the valve cover off, draw the rocker shaft off it and check your pushrods for bends, it happens when you use the valve lifter (decompression lever) sometimes and, really shouldn't be used the way you did. But, hey, you weren't to know that👍🏻👍🏻🏴🇬🇧
you can literally see one of the lifters not moving and he goes and says they are all moving :D
your right there then spot it later, like neither knew about the cold start lol
This is like Diesel Creak without the yeehaa!
I think maybe next time you gotta be sure to hold the starting fluid even farther away from the target, so that even less makes it in and even more is ' fo da homies ' :p Just messin with ya :o Actual serious note.... possibly just needs freeing stuck brakes ? Was the transmission out of oil ( is it one of those ones that needs a certain oil level to make power ) ? Some fresh oil in the engine for better compression, aaannd Injector cleaner / auto trans fluid in the fuel.
Yes, should I put at least 5 gallon bucket of hydraulic fluid in that a lot of times it’s low and when they’re low and almost out, you don’t go nowhere you break things
Hold on keep going 😂😂😂
Lol when I was editing it I was like poor Chris what am I saying
for $500 this was no mistake. get a bigger tractor and drag it around until stuff unsticks. Should move on just 3 cylinders until you can get it into the shed for repairs after the brakes and clutch loosen up. .
It's worth fixing. Rebuild the fuel pump clean or replace the injectors fresh fuel and oils it will be a good machine again.
Buy some Harbor freight Line wrenches Guys. Great Video.
It’s one of those ran when parked 😂😂😂
If the bucket is moving when starting then the PTO is engaged, that won’t help starting! The rear case houses the diff and hydraulic pump that runs off the PTO. The seals on the outer hub for the rear wheels may be gone, and could be why you have low oil in the rear case, or the hydraulic pump pumped it out a broken/leaning hose. The rear case holds about 40 litres, there is fluid in there else the hydraulic pump would not work. The dip stick for the case is really short, use a wire to check the level.
If it’s anything like my old Ford backhoe, the hydraulics run off a pump on the front of the crankshaft.
Fair point
The bucket runs off the front
No, not on these machines. The PTO has to be engaged for the tractor hydraulic pump to work, correct. However, these machines had hydraulic pumps (Dowty brand on some) driven off the front of the crankshaft and were independent of the tractors hydralics.
The injectors don't spray right, and too little compression is my guess. Injectors can be cleaned or replaced, and an RVS treatment should fix compression.
I think you will be lucky to move it let alone think of digging with it.
Could the wheels be locked up? I would try to raise the front bucket and try to break wheels free in reverse.
You should use front bucket curled it back push yourself back break loose the brake if injector pump was sticking like it was it probably sticking some need to be running for a good while injecting pump need to keep freeing up just running it for a little bit injection pump doesn't have enough time to free itself up you need to run it 1hr or 2hr let engine get up the operating temperature and why it is running keep putting oil on injecting plumbers so they keep freeing up also put an automatic transmission fluid in with the diesel fuel will help it runs and help with compression and injection pump
Id definitely spend some time and money on it
What about the old super a farmall is it for sale