Run through how I quote and price a rewire - what's involved?
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This video is for entertainment purposes only and is in no way intended as a guide or 'how to'.
Great video Nick. Really interesting to see how other sparks quote for re wires. I love how transparent and honest you are. Cheers
Total admiration and respect for the transparency mate 👍
Good quality work and you're not greedy with the pricing. Plus I ❤ your content. Keep it up Nick 👌🏼
TBF I wouldn’t get out of bed for less than £45k these days…
The thumbnail has had me in stitches! 😂
😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂
🤣😂🤣😂
@artisanelectrics does the customer get anything above you getting out of bed or is that it🤪?
This is exactly how I price. Makes things very transparent. Customer knows exactly what they are paying as its in black and white. They make any changes. They also know what they are going to pay. I also think if you have gone to the trouble of quoting each point the quote looks so much better and looks like more effort has been put into the quote
Really appreciate you covering your business costingsNick , as this is really helpful for us apprentice electrician, ⚡️👊
Great to see some real transparency Nick! Another great video.
All sparks across uk and London please need to stop signing certificates for builders or doggie Electrician's for new installations without having qualifications etc.(but they do the job very cheap) Those people's are destroying the market. This is how we will gett the price's up. Let the registred electrician do the job.
100% agree
If the job is done correctly, what would your justification be for not signing it off?
Great transparency Nick. I think a lot of people see the cost of an accessory and imagine the time it would take to fit in ‘perfect’ conditions. They don’t see the overheads (van, consumables, tools, testing etc.), the nightmare cable runs or a reasonable profit to be able to earn a living.
And also, an electrician will know and follow the regulations that will make it as safe as possible. You're paying for a skilled person to do skilled labour
Are you fitting the same accessories (if not decorative) and consumer units on each job to keep a tab on what makes you fitted if you get a callback You were also fitting a emergency light at one point
I find these videos as interesting as your work videos cus I'm just starting out on my own keep it up nickyou do a good job
I've being doing this for over 30 years and I still find Nicks video's interesting it helps knowing what other sparks charge and I try to keep my prices inline with others. Don't do things for cheap always be fair as at the end of the day you have to make living
memeing on artisan being absolute thieves is always great content.
Get a grip, they literally put videos out explaining what they charge.
The thumbnail has had me in stitches! 😂
@@stevenhinchley3588 it’s all good fun lad 👍🏻
Just abit of banter mate
I’ve worked in London most of my time , I’ve worked all over uk , and Germany , and France .. ( now retired). Prices in London have allways been more ( a lot more).. it does not mean the sparks are better ,,greedy? That depends .. I did many houses huge ones in Hampstead. London some with 7 beds etc .. lots for the council last etc. concrete walls in my day we had chasers they came in before I did and chashed the walls. , some times I could pull thru on the old conduit ( imperial) . Sometimes the council woul not allow you to chase ( cost) you had to use mini trunking ..which looked horrible .. but you had to do a flat a day if it was mini trunking … a word of warning anyone who comes in to cheap be warned there not sparks … and you will pay a lot more later on …
Fair play Nick Good informative video👌
Perfect love this video
Do you charge half price upfront to protect yourself?
Does your prices include back filling the chases plaster?
My company wants me to relocate to Cambridge but refused pay adjustment. Should I send this to them?
Last time I did a full concrete, sockets on both floors had to be above each other, chase up, drill up, wire all from loft (more cable so has to be a higher cost) Not fun to do but oh well, gotta be done
I have done 2 with a 3rd underway at the moment First one was on a fixed price basis not per point - didn’t work Last one was per point - profitable and went well One I’m starting - exact same. Can’t fault it. When variations happen it’s easy to track, invoice and manage
Why not put a price in to include variations ? Instead of A 6k rewire - a 10k rewire and have what you like .
I have always wanted to price up per point for speed but can never get it to work out anywhere near what i quote materials + labour
Very Informative but you missed out the Facebook Electrician whose quote came in at £1000 ish
Great video, thanks. How do you protect yourself from non-payment?, is the 50% upfront your way to minimise getting stung?
As an American, I've don't see the attraction of recessed lights. When I remodeled 10 years ago I did have 3 put in near my kitchen sink and 3 over the mirror in an upstairs bath. The labor and parts were more expensive, but the light output that I perceive seems much less than an equivalent light fixture where the bulbs are 6 - 12 inches from the surface. If I had to do it again I wouldn't install recessed lights. But then instead of a pendant, we wire an electrical box for each light fixture - just like for receptacles. And that seems to have resulted in a wider variety of mounted light fixtures - including ceiling fan / light combos being quite common.
It might depend on the type of housing - smaller rooms, lower ceilings etc. Having just renewed some lighting, the choice of mounted fixtures wasn’t very appealing here (UK) but I guess that’s personal taste. I have seen condensation issues in loft spaces where downlights are retrofitted without thinking about ventilation/extraction of moist air in bathrooms.
Ooh…..looking forward to seeing you at your mates job makes a lot sense….win win
Hi Nick Do your price (per point) include the provision of back boxes and cable?
Concrete mixer! The hole for my garden room is a muddy pit and i need to get the foundations in!
Time can be a big factor also. I recently had a full re-wire (3 bed 1930s semi), of the quotes we got, one-man bands were the cheapest, but the job would have taken around a week. As we needed to move into soon, we ended up paying a fair chunk more for a team of 5 who were in and out in a single day! Their choreography was amazing and for us it was worth paying the extra. It's also a bit of peace of mind going with a well established company, if anything does go wrong they're more likely to still be around to honour their guarantee.
Is your per point quote including materials?
Good luck getting the 100k 🤞
Great video as always dude. Do you add extra for each switch on the downlights? Foe example a bathroom with 4 spots, would you just charge £260 (price of 4 spots)? Or would you add say £40 for the switch so the price would be £300?
Make sure you use 35mm boxes for the bg accessories. They say minimum of 25mm but I can tell you thats a real struggle!
Youre 100% right unless its a 1 point radial lol. 2 cables in the 25mm box seems to be too much if lip of box is too close to the surface!!
Yes, makes second fix so much easier. Necessary for any flat plate really. Haven't put any 16mm boxes in for years.
And 50mm for 3 gang single boxes for landing light switches with 6 cables in them!
How much do you usually charge to swap light switches and socket fronts Nick? Would you charge per point?
yes mate per point
Great video, thankyou
Fancy doing an upgrade to double stack board, from single Contactum metal board 8 way. Location near Loch Ness. It’s not a monster job, just future proofing for solar and EV.
yes mate drop me a whatsapp bud
Ree Ree Wire when the crowd says. Bo......
Selector
It wasn't just me, singing that in my head lol
Love your transparency Nick! Quality work with very fair pricing. How far do you travel and does that impact your quote? P.S. Worth upgrading your RJ45 cable tester to something like NF-8508 if you are doing more CAT5/6 work and the Klein Tools VDV226-110 crimper is nice to use
I agree that if they are running CAT6 {should not be running CAT5 now anyway unless using CT clamp}. And use a real tester, crimper and CAT6 RJ45 jacks and CAT6 face plates. But also look into running all network connects into a 1U CAT6 patch panel. Then use an Ubiquiti switch {they are cheap but also I've used them small and large enterprises. If they only need a small Cable management => switch.
@@bofh139cat6 is serious over kill for a domestic property
Mate im charging 1980s prices 🙈 thanks for the breakdown, a lot of sparks dont correctly price jobs. But Nick can you do a video on how to price your job against your competitors, because in house bashing every customer is looking for the cheapest quote. Looking forward to the content regarding competitors. Thanks
Do these prices per point change depending on what finish of accessories there going for ? So white plastic cheaper per point than named brand
Cyes his pricing would be standard white fittings, if you want chone, black etc you'd pay etc as with usb or WiFi enabled too.... These can always be swapped out after either way though I'd go for the better ones for likes of kitchen, usb in bedroom and at least one in sitting room.... WiFi linked one for outdoor would be a fmgreat addition too for her washer, vacuum, Christmas lights etc
@@almilhouse9059Why WiFi for outdoor? And what do you class as better for thr kitchen? Cheers.
Hi Nick, just wondering what kind of area you cover? Im looking for a full rewire but probably 1-2 hours drive away.
yes mate we travel all over. drop me a WhatsApp mate
Flipping eck wished you lived further north up here near Hull. Very good prices.
You need a rewire mate?
Great video Nick! Would you consider taking a job in Brighton or is that too far for You? Due to start a reno in January.
yeah defo, drop me an email
Who said anything about surface ? You guys like to read a post and come up with a completely different answer. My comment was about saving money using 4mm, sorry if I didn't add "as long as the installing methods are met" I thought that was obvious the trained sparks. There are plenty of scenarios you can clip directly under the floor and come up surface into the oven/hob etc. Also most ovens these days are 20amp or under.
Hi nick would that include plastering up your chases afterwards?
I normally put a bit of bonding around the sockets for my benefit so I dont charge for that
This is great, Nick! I’m just gearing myself up to go alone but my current boss has always handled the quoting & invoicing etc so I’ve never learned how much things cost!
I need xzy fitting a 25mil crwl space witb soffit and usb leads and chase it i aint got a clue what your saying but it sounds cool😂😂😂
It’s rewire mate 😉. Beard 👌🏻
I need a quote. How can I get hold of you? Manchester area
Just out of curiosity, I have an empty house with all floorboards loose for easy access Would it be cheeky or frowned upon by the electrician if I asked if it would be cheaper as the job would be quicker Just nice to have your thoughts on it Thanks for the context in yr video
Not at all, it would be cheaper as labour is saved mate
How much would you charge to change a fuse board (I assume plus testing) £750 still? Just like if that’s correct
Does you Includes testing or not?
Good question
Is that occupied?
I find it incredible that your willing to travel from London to Wolverhampton,, I actually live in Wolverhampton and find it a pain to go to Birmingham to do a job ,, your pricing is cheap, considering your work is very good and tidy,,,,I charge £100 quid a socket,,, and £60 quid rose ,,, if you go to Brum,, for good curry go Small Health,, Coventry road,,, for night life,, Broad Street Birmingham city centre,,
Who said he travelles from London? 😂
He mentions London prices, but clearly states he is in Stafford.
Me: extension lead plugged into an extension lead, £50 💷 😅
From what I am hearing is UK electricians are not paid a good hourly rate. Can you Electricians leave your hourly rate? I am an electrician in Australia
I was told you can use wireless smoke alarms as long as 10 year battery and can interlink with each other, was pointed towards the cavius range, not installed any yet but defo a time saver
You can, as you say as long as they’re the sealed 10 year lithium batteries with interlink…..EI do some that work brilliantly. They’re expensive so wouldn’t bother if I was doing a rewire, but come in handy as a retro fit in a fully furnished house for example!
@@davecowan860 I was told to look into cavius, meant to be really good and plus saving on cable cost
Building regs told me no, I said I'd use radio link Acio, he said all alarms needed to be hard wired, might of been a jobsworth?
I was told hardwired interlinked only
@@TheGorillahands From what I understood when I spoke to Aico direct, their lithium radio linked detectors were designed to comply with building regs, but I’m not 100 % sure to be fair. I’ve never used them in a building regs scenario, only as a retro fit where access was difficult. If I was wiring an extension / new build I’d be running in cables anyway.
I'm confused, why the £15 jump for a USB socket? I can't see any additional labour or wiring involved and the USB sockets aren't anywhere near £15 more expensive.
Maybe because they have more chasing to do for a deeper back box to accommodate the thicker USB socket and enough room for the cables to sit freely? I'm just guessing!
Also the usb sockets need to be tested separately and recorded on test sheet 😊
Antique brass double socket is around £10, antique brass usb c double socket is around £25. So yes, the £15 extra makes a lot of sense.
Have a chat with Building Control but I’m pretty sure you can no longer chase prefabs
Strucrural engineer i think
@@kloddi25 Structural engineers may know, but Building Control won’t charge you & will go the extra mile to ensure you know what the Regs are
10 mm cable for a cooker point cheaper then a outside sensor light mmm
he said £180 for cooker point i think
Nick, I start at £400 per room as I am still attempting to get to get rewire works. 1 pendant, 1 switch and 4 double sockets per bedroom. For kitchen I do £1500 and £45 per spotlight currently, I am getting rewires at these prices. Last one was £4,336. For a 2 bed bungalow with 2 en-suite.
Does this sound OK? It seems far too cheap, but I did a 16 way fusebox board for £700. I don’t charge VAT on pricing yet.
yeah I think that pretty good mate, where u based?
@@NBundyElectrical I’m in Leicester but the job was in Milton Keynes only 35 minute drive down from here was just wondering. Next one I have figured out some mistakes I have made (not electrically - just basic errors on my judgement) that I’m dealing with now like not pricing in outside lights etc.. lol
Kitchen rewire in 2021 and cu upgrade to rcbos with testing and certification was about 2k, Chester area. As the customer i was very happy with the price, how the work was done, and would recommend the electrician without question.
Can't comment on the price being right without you saying how long it took you. 4300 is fine if you're done in 4 days. Not so fine if you're there 2 week.
Always give customers several options. Network cabling containment is very important. Always point out the importance. Insulated to mains voltage standard is not good enough. Always figure in screened as an option. Containment is still important. I have to say mate, I was charging your lighting charges in the 90s. Sit yourself down and work out what your time actually costs. Not your work hours. It seems you are not charging for your time pricing, ordering/collecting materials, billing/invoicing etc. Do you charge for transport? You should be factoring in the cost of running vehicles, tax, insurance, maintenance --- you need to take everything into account. You can offset a lot against tax, but it needs to be charged to be considered. If you take it all into account, you will see why Jordan appears to be expensive. lol
Did u know that Adam appeared on the Netflix series 'Z Nation ' before he worked for u? He was 10K in Z Nation 😂
Double price for concrete
I've seen many in these cases just surface mount everything, trunking, surface back box and it obviously would be much quicker and no chasing.... looks terrible though
@@almilhouse9059 the last one we did, the owner battonend the walls and boarded so we just ran out cables surface then he boarded over.
The rather more annoying fact is that in 2023, the age of Alexa, Homekit & Presence Detection, folks still (re-)wire buildings like in the victorian age, assuming that circuits get closed by muscle-powered switches in the room‘s wall, instead of central switching actuators in the cabinet, which can be controlled in various ways. Man up and have a look ar KNX for crying out loud. This makes rewires not just cheaper & simpler, but future proofs any smart home & building automation project for decades to come!!
I cant understand how a KNX system will come in cheaper than a standard rewire. How would you design and price a KNX system for a standard three bed house 👍👍
@@karlbyrne1111 KNX can be wired from one device (sensor) to the next, with as many junctions as you like as long as you don‘t create a ring or exceed 700m. That means you have one green 30V cable per floor going from one room to the next and connecting push buttons, presence detectors, touch screens and whatever else you want to integrate (Sauna control, irrigation controller) And as it is 30V, you can do all this work without the danger of electrocuting yourself. That means you normally only put 230V for sockets & lights into the room. There you can use multi-wire (5x1,5) cabling to keep the number of cables to a minimum. A KNX Actuator has all the functionality built in, that would normally require timers & impulse switch and change-over-switching configurations. With KNX you switch the light with the actuator and never care about the sensor/button setup. With a blinds (or rolling shutters) actuator you can drive a whole front, with timer, multi-motor switching (groups) and blocking functionality (you sit outside, door open) all built in. No need for isolating relays or wiring from the door to the blinds motor. I hate when I see those moronic timers in every room at every single blind or shutter. You no longer need thermostats, as Pushbuttons normally have temp & humidity sensors. You only need one 230V cable and a KNX Cable to the underfloor heating distribution box. The actuator receives the room temperature digitally, instead of putting a (4 or 5 wire) 230V cable in every room to the room thermostat. I could go on and on. If you don‘t just do the bare minimum, but actually want some kind of modern, somewhat smart electrics, there is simply no better standard than KNX. You have all light & blind cables starting in the distribution box and wire the sockets like in a classic installation. All actuators sit in the same cabinet and allow for central control and maintenance. If you want to control stuff with a mobile or via speech, you connect the KNX system to the IP world, but it will also work flawlessly if it is just running locally. Given that it does not rely on IP, it is also more secure and never needs security fixes. (We do large office buildings, hotels and public buildings like train stations with this, so I might be biased!)
@@karlbyrne1111 You need a power supply & an IP Interface to start with. Cheap KNX push buttons (& presence detectors) start at 60 quid (90£) from „MDT“ and there is no limit at the top end (milled from a single sheet of brass or covered in leather from „Basalte“) A Siemens TC5 controller that would be a nice little display for the whole house comes in at around 280£. A Schneider KNX Touch 4“ is about the same. For everything else, I would probably use HomeAssistant or OpenHAB in a private property. There my house shows up as 1 KNX device with nearly 200 entities. Solid as a rock and as KNX has all components talking to each other, it does not matter if one device fails or the server is down. Everything else will just continue working… If you can import components from an EU reseller, a switching channel on an actuator is 20-25£, heating actuator is 40£ per circuit dimming is 60-70£, LED controllers can reach a 100£ or more. (Most UK shops add >50% margin compared to international prices, so that‘s actually a real „bummer“!) Yes. KNX is not cheap, but I am still doing maintenance for KNX systems that were installed 20 years ago and you can 100% rest assured, that you can still buy KNX components in 20 years from now. Most other (consumer retrofit) technologies will hardly last a decade and you will always need the latest standard to make everything work. So. Maybe you pay twice the initial amount with KNX, but you will not spend anything for the next 20 years… Where are you based? Maybe there is a showroom nearby. I can recommend the Jung Showroom in Clerkenwell, London There you can experience first hand, how a fully integrated KNX smart installation looks, feels and works.
Mate your videos at top notch. 1 question would you always be self employed or would you go back to working foe someone. I don't have the stones to go alone but always interested to see both side 👍
I could never go back to working for someone ever, once you started by yourself, with the freedom and money that comes with it its a no brainer but a lot more stress mate
I paid £ 5200 for a 3 bed semi inc . 2 outside lights and garage light + 2 sockets. It took the 2 guys 3 days, little bit messy but what workers , and they did a very thorough clean on completion.
Which area and did they supply the materials?
Did u spit that toad out re-wire 😅
Is £2900 cheap?
I've checked back over all your videos I've watched and half of the LIKES are gone!!!! Sometimes KZhead SUCKS
It'd be interesting to get a load of the regular KZhead sparks together at a typical 3 bed semi and see how each of them would price it up
All properties in Scotland must have interlinked smoke, heat, CO alarms by law. Rental and new builds have had to have this since around 15 years ago. Ideally mains fed and interlinked, but Bluetooth became acceptable.
Interlinking a smoke/heat alarm with a CO alarm is a no-no, because the action the householder needs to take is different according to whether it’s a smoke/heat alarm or a CO alarm that’s gone off. If they are interlinked you don’t know which alarm triggered the rest (i.e. whether smoke or carbon monoxide was detected).
@@jamesfrederick3107 That's the law in Scotland.
@@cjmillsnunWhat it actually says is “The new law in Scotland requires all homes (owned or rented) to have interlinked Smoke and Heat alarms installed. Where there is a carbon-fuelled appliance (such as boilers, fires and heaters) or a flue, then a Carbon Monoxide alarm is also required.” It does not say that the CO2 alarm needs to be interlinked to the Smoke and Heat alarms.
@@jamesfrederick3107 CO2 is carbon dioxide and not carbon monoxide (CO).
What is the best way to retrain as an electrician at 35+ years old? 20 years at this desk is too much and AI will probably steal my job in the next few years.
If you have yourself set up to be on a terrible low wage for 4 years then go for it, you need to become a apprentice, get hired by a electrician company, college and on job training, it's tough work too
Most trades have adult apprenticeships and depending on your experience in the trade can be as short as working 6months with a tradesman and doing all tests for that trade in college. But depending on the college, the tests could be done at different intervals and still end up being over 3 years
@@HootMaRootThanks, I almost accepted the other reply and the defeatist attitude but then researched it properly. Seems you can find adult learning to do the level2 in as short as 7 weeks full time education or several months part time at weekends, they offer accommodation and home learning if needed cost between 2.5 and 3.5k. Should be enough to get started working to gain experience and then do level 3 and AM2 if you wanted.
Their is colleges that will do night school courses (not the best route if im being honest but if needs must) alot depends on how well you use tools really. Sounds daft but alot of people that haven't used tools alot don't realise its grafting physical work. Its also a very knowledge based trade Good luck if you do go for it though
I retrained when I was 27 & it took me 4 years & 4 months to get qualified. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
Why can’t tradesmen quote inclusive of VAT? Best to now the real price 😳
The real price is without VAT, since tradesmen have to give the VAT to the VAT man, including VAT is only the real price for the customer - so add it on yourself, come on, 20% isn't rocket science, double it, lose a zero 😂
Nailed it
@@Sydney268never heard “double it and loose a zero” trying to get my head round why that works 🤷♂️ thought most people just did 10% and doubled it. 17.5% used to be a head scratcher, 10% + half of that + half of that. Good old days 😂😂
£50 on top for each coredrill hole that needs doing...
3:27 pricing
3300 is northwest 3 beder with certs ocupied
3300 3 bed what? Terrace semi detached?
Half the price it should be.
maybe 3300 8 years ago it's defo not that now a days
With prices like that there is no wonder some will DIY
No regulation I'm aware of stating mains smokes required for a rewire. Obviously you'd recommend it but not a requirement
My house has smokes on the hallway on each storey (3 storey house) when I do the kitchen I want to be able to have a heat alarm fitted, I was told I would need to have all new alarms a]fitted that interlink with the new heat alarm in the kitchen 🤔 am I getting my leg pulled ?
@@kingofthetrowel1725Q. are your existing 3 alarms over 10yrs old?
@@loosecannon5813 the 3 alarms goT changed a few year back mate, but the bases are original as there the good old magnolia yellow colour 😂
@@kingofthetrowel1725I’m a spark living in probably the same build as your house so can answer. Your three existing will be interlinked by wire, to add the heat in the kitchen would be a pain to add to same circuit. Makes more sense to power the heat from the kitchen light circuit, this would mean it needs radio interlink rather than wired. Depending on your current alarms, they may or may not be compatible with radio interlink. If they aren’t, you need three new ones to go with the new heat, which are all radio interlink. Fit aico alarms, nothing other than aico.
If you're going to have a mixed wired X3 and radio link the heat you would only need to radio link to one of the smokes - It would in turn alert the other 2 smokes through the wiring
Use 4mm for the cooker and save money, pendants inc switch should be £140 not £80,you’re making me look like artisan
4mm is inadequate for a cooker circuit. It needs to be 6mm minimum. By the way installing a new circuit in a bathroom or kitchen, or changing a consumer unit, is Part P notifiable. The work must be done by a qualified electrician, or you will be subject to a £5,000 fine. It isn’t worth it.
25amp isn't much for a cooker and hob
You both obviously don't read the regs book
@@supersparks9466 the regs that say a 4mm in conduit can only carry 27amp? That regs book?
Who said anything about conduit? Install it by the regs for a 32amp breaker.
Needed some graphics on the screen or something ... hella boring to watch
You don't have to watch it 😬
maybe some pole dancers or to make it really interesting some double pole dancers
Great work Nick. What’s the WhatsApp number you talked about??