LEARN the 'KEY NOTCH' tree falling technique
We give a step by step guide on how to perform the Key notch tree falling technique, also known as the tongue and groove falling technique.
We explain the reasons when and why you might use this technique, as well as some important information on limitations of this tree falling style.
00:00:00 Intro
00:00:20 Why this technique is useful
00:01:20 Face cut
00:01:44 Vertical plunge cuts
00:02:26 horizontal plunge cuts to remove small square section
00:03:00 Angle on front edge of bottom face cut
00:03:37 First half of back cut
00:04:10 Second part of back cut
00:04:35 The tree fall
00:04:45 Assessing the felling cut
00:05:10 When and Why to do this style of falling
00:06:35 Important information and limitation of this felling style
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#ClimbingArborist #Arborist #TreeWork
I can see a lot of use for this in urban tree felling. This ain’t for novices, but for pros, being able to protect low walls, planters, raised beds, and especially tree-surrounding expensive tile patios or wooden decks from having the trunk smash into them etc, is awesome. People say this takes too long, but in those specific, but fairly common situations with urban trees, this can actually save a lot of time not having to set up crash bags/blankets, hoping it’s enough to protect what you have to protect from a falling trunk, when the budget precludes a crane. I think clients will appreciate it too.
Agreed
Absolutely I'm using it here on a farm it's a lot less risk for damage
Whole video is like 8 minutes... How much in a hurry are you? (Also, how many extra seconds do we talk about?)
Finally someone explains WHY to use this cut. Thank you!
No problem
I'd appreciate more hints on when to NOT use this cut.
@@col0342 always
Use it to keep the trunk from crushing something below it. Have seen this performed on trees protruding through decks.
keklol. imagine being u, huz unable to understood himself such simpol thing.
I don't leave comments on KZhead. But I'm making an exception today. Thank you for sharing! I used this to take down a 40ft sweet gum which was leaning over my chain link fence. I wanted to drop it without damaging the fence and this is exactly what I needed! I made these cuts above the fence line and was able to section the tree once it was down without impacting the fence. Thank you!
Well executed. Great explanation of use. This is a training video. Notes to a lot of homeowners: If you have a "safety chain" or "anti-kickback chain" a plunge cut may be very difficult to nearly impossible. if you haven't got training besides watching you tube, a plunge cut might be more advanced than you think.
Well said!
@@ClimbingArborist Maybe a video for your followers using a safety chain. Why and how they are made. And what homeowners should do.
I was thinking the same thing watching him do it, " I'm gonna be able to do that with my Poulin????, how do I know if my saw has a safety chain?? also , seems like you would need a 60-70cc saw with ample power. Don't think I want to try this.
@@pennyan2057You don't need much power, power only = speed, I cut mostly with my ms180 Sthil, I have a 290, but that is reserved for big logs cutting them to woodstove length, its too heavy to haul around unless you really need it
@@integr8er66 Power is also needed for large wood because of the number of teeth engaged. For the really big stuff with long bars, a lot of pros will use a skip-tooth chain to reduce the tooth count in half for both less stress on the chain and to avoid clogging the cut with wood chips. Bigger powerheads can also deliver more bar oil which is nessesary for longer bars (This is why a 460 is limited to about 32 inch, the oil adjustment is maxed out). I also know folks that don't cut too much big wood so they use a standard complement chain but they still use an extra long bar to avoid bending over as much when bucking.
As a chainsaw instructor and amateur KZheadr myself, I salute you! I had thought this cut was too complicated and time consuming to teach, but you proved me wrong! I’ve seen time and time again people rushing the felling cut and causing half an hour hard graft sorting out the mess afterwards. An extra minute getting the felling cut perfect and anticipating everything that could go wrong, is always time well spent. Good job sir!
Much appreciated buddy, thanks for the kind words
Fascinating to learn about the 'KEY NOTCH' technique for tree falling - such an invaluable skill for precision and safety. 🌲🔑
Absolutely! Glad you enjoyed it
Being an old carpenter, I loved seeing this. Thinking about how to make physics work in your favour. Very cool. Things like this are good for business too. Showing that you are a master of your trade. Impressive.
Glad you enjoyed it! 😃
Loving this method!
Thanks for the video, this technique be making the rounds on social media because I've been hearing everyone talk about it. Good to see a concise instructional video of it.
Thanks dude!
Hi Dan, ive not seen this before! However it looks magic. I will definitely try this next time i can! Keep up the good work and informative videos. Stay safe 😞
Glad this was something new for you 👍
I like it. Even if you're just cutting some firewood it you still get some benefits from it, better ergonomics for limbing, can back a small trailer under it after felling so you don't have to lift as much after. If you're working sandy or muddy ground you can avoid sinking the tree into that. And it should dry fast on the stump if you just want to leave it like that. Or if you just want to make a place to sit. Cut it down, limb it, shorten it, flatten it and throw a piece under the other side.
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Very clever technique. Thanks for that.
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Short, to the point, and Very Informative = Great Video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@ClimbingArboristYes I did! And again thanks for a great presentation. I've subscribed and will be watching your other content. To many on KZhead WASTE time with filler and it turns people off. I'm here to learn, not play social hour. As a Builder with decades of experience it's easy to spot a skilled professional. Keep them coming.......
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So cool! Thank you for sharing this technique.
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Thanks Dan another timely, informative, and helpful installment!
Glad you enjoyed it !!!
Really clever approach for controlling the lower trunk, thanks for the tip!
Glad it was helpful! 😃
Dan, thanks for your sharing. It is a cool technique. I like it.
Glad you like it! 😄
Beautiful! Thank you very much for sharing!
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Loved it!❤
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Excelente explicacion, gracias x el video!
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Beautiful! I loved this, even though I'm an axeman! I've sometimes felled tricky trees for folks using almost exclusively the axe, which I can because I have a fair deal of experience, and know to climb trees to limb the weight with lean where I want it to. But sometimes that's not enough, and so ropes and (semi-)dubious wedging has been used to make it fall straight. One time I had a bad premonition that fortunately ended well, but the "throw of the dice" was no fun when a friend can risk considerable damage (that was meant to be avoided all together in case of a storm) But still I've been called over some sawmen, because in such settings they'll admit that they're to get stuck (or much worse), so they'll need even more accessories than what it's worth (vs risk). I'll have to share this with my fellows, because just because I can be the one that can, doesn't mean I should be the one who should. Sometimes, you need a different tool, and my fellow sawmen (and people in our local villages) will thank for sharing this vaulable safety measure. Thank you for uploading! Cheers from northern Norway
From an educational point of view, simply explaining "how to do" leads to distortions of understanding and a gradual modification of gestures. The one and only solution is to explain "why", like in this video. Well done!
Thank you for your comment, very much appreciated 😃
Nice video! Tnx. You can eliminate 1 cut though; by making the first horizontal plunge cut in a slightly downward angle. This will eliminate the need for a second horizontal plunge cut and will still give you enough room for the pivoting stump.
Absolutely Magic!! 👍
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Cool video Dan, thanks for showing something interesting. JIm in Oregon.
Cheers Jim, Glad you enjoyed it.
Wow, haven’t seen old farm fence technique in a long time
looks like a good way to get the saw stuck in the tree! i been doin this for 40 yrs or more! make ur back cut high enough , and there should be no problem with the tree trunk bucking back on ya
Very clever nice explanation
Glad you liked it 👍
SUPERB !!!!
That's a very clever way of felling a tree. The next time we have some clearing to do we'll be using that without doubt. Starting on the smaller trees obviously until we're 100% comfortable with the technique. Brilliant!
Yes, this is a fun one to practice in a safe environment with no targets around.
very very nice , thank you so much for this technique. amazing
So neat!! Sharing it with a friend right now! 😊
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Hello Dan, thank you. That is fancy!
You are welcome! Glad you like the vid 👍
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
*Thanks!* NICE Cuts! Tree looks as if Trained. : } *Cheers!*
I got to try this.
Definitely give it a go 👍 try it first on a few trees that wouldn’t matter if it went wrong
Smart idea never seen it before
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Its a fun trick shot, looks cool, but really serves a very very narrow purpose, a proper face cut back cut and a couple wedges and the tree will fall where you want it, but you are right this will keep the log from bouncing left or right. Good work mate
This technique has a specific use. Watch the video, it is explained
@@ClimbingArboristAgreed, my comment has been edited. One of my favorite specialty cuts is the sizwheele, used to cause the tree to spin as it falls.
So well executed and explained Dan, I will definitely try this felling system, l am impressed, Stihl MS 261 is definitely the best 50cc saw on the planet, How Sweet the Sound, give the MS 400 a try out, l think you will fall in love ❤, keep up the powerful work, your content is treasure trove for all, greetings from Ireland !!!
Love the 261, not tried the 400. Cheers for the kind words bro 🤙
550 is better than the 261 and the 560 is better than both
@@MakeloafnotwarI bet you've never touched a ms400 or cut timber
Excited to mess around with this a bit! Question for you: have you attempted it perpendicular to the primary lean of a tree to see what happens? I could imagine a number of outcomes (key+hinge breaks, keys binds and stops moving, stump splits). Purely morbid curiosity on the directional capacity of the technique for fully weighted trees.
Haven’t tried it on a side leaner. Likely would be risky
Beautiful
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Safe-r technique . Practical , structured fall . .👍🎯
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Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very nice!
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Genius, love it! Almost seems to be the first joint of new construction.....Im wondering if there's a way to do this with Bushcraft techniques?
Most likely is
I don't have a chainsaw or any trees but was compelled to watch. Great vid !
Glad you enjoyed!
Ace video. Thank you. Wish I'd known about Rhos method when I felled a 40ft leaning poplar adjacent to our garage. We succeeded, but it was nerve wracking, & & came uncomfortably close to being disastrous!
Nice work! 😃
Very impressive.
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Awesome information! I like that you can do this solo, no need for a rope and extra person. Only challenge would be on larger trees my 16" dewalt saw probably wouldn't work to cut the key. I'll have to try this on the ausie willows in the spring😊
This technique doesn’t change the need for pull line, extra person etc
@@ClimbingArborist OK, than not so useful 😁
Great video with detailed explanations.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment 🤙
Great video 👍 I'd watch an hour long video with just multiple fellings like this
Challenge accepted 😃
Just like all tricks, there's a time and a place for it, and both might be few and far between depending where you work. On flat ground or uphill felling it can definitely save a lot of earth punishment and has other benefits, but trying it on even a slight downhill fell has proven to be a waste of time for me. It really doesn't take that long and I learned a lot so I would recommend for anyone to try it anywhere it seems useful...as long as you can afford to replace whatever you end up crushing haha
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Think I'd be using this more to help control the direction n the tree falls more than it rolling off the stump. Great technique either way!
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Can you use the "Humboldt" type of face cut? Seems like in the end you are doing that anyway with those angled cuts. And, can you do this cut when topping a tree (I don't know if I said that right)? I guess the bottom of the tenon might hit you.
Well, that should control the fall ! Hadn't seen/heard of that !
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Wow I have never seen this before, I see Why that can be very useful......k
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Interesting!!!!!
I think so too!
It's very advanced technique for me, looks more like a wood sculpting, but very interesting and performed perfectly. Thank you for sharing. As a newbie I'm still sticking to falling relatively small trees away from the house without trying to change the direction of fall using a basic technique of the face cut and the back cut.
Yeah, definitely most important to get the fundamentals dialled in first, before trying this stuff
Cool!
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Tekhnik ini sangat berguna , agar batang kayu yang kita potong tidak jatuh ke samping , biasnya banyak ketika kayu roboh batang nya membanting
Nice
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I like this idea in that it keeps the tree off the ground for easier bucking
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How do you like the light bar on the 26?
Pretty new saw so not avast of usage time so far, but the 261 is generally an awesome saw regardless of bar
I've wondered if you're using this technique to fell a tree with a lopsided canopy or weird shaped trunk if it would be really likely to jump out of the slot and flop around regardless?
Not sure the outcome of a tree that was heavily weight to a side that wasn’t the direction of the dell. Probably not advisable technique to use in that situation
Great. Way to fall a tree on a windy day. !!!
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That’s the coolest thing ever!
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That's great, how would that work on a 30 inch diameter tree?
If it is done correctly
Those are always fun to do. Haven't done one in a while
Very satisfying, and useful when you need the tree to stay in place
This is great. Drill a hole drive pin and you have a gate
Cool! :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Does this technique also help with the direction the tree will fall?. Along with the pull rope and the initial cut etc.
Not really
MAsterpiece
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We should thank the Norwegian Vikings for inventing this technique. As we all know the vikings originated in Norway and later spread to denmark and sweden and iceland. They brought their know-how with them on their way out to distant countries. So thank you Norway!
And on to Greenland and North America. And pretty much everywhere else.
@@pgwalling6478 Excellent correction, but not to Somalia.
Really? That's crazy, those plunge cuts would have been hard work with hand tools
😂That was funny . Jokes aside now and show us how to make those cuts with hand tools in a reasonable time .
@@igricbm9233 What? You think the real Norwegian vikings that built incredible wooden ships with intricate shapes, bends and carvings and wooden stave churches couldn't bring down a tree with some easy cuts?
what about vertical lines to be more to "A" shape to help more to lock?
Not sure it’s completely necessary, but could be worth trying
@@ClimbingArborist and if you do, let me know :-)
I would like to see that done on a big oak or maple here in Southern Ontario
Nice, line up a job and we’ll fly in ✈️
@@ClimbingArborist that's awesome I work primarily in Toronto, I could set something up for sure. How much notice do you need?
genius
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Mantap luar biasa
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this may take longer but it sure is a heck lot safer someone i know was cutting some trees at a property we were flipping after reno, and one of the tree bounced when it fell and broke his leg as a result
I got an idea!!! Let's figure out a way to make tree felling more complicated & more dangerous
I think you missed the part where this is safer and more controlled.
I am high AF right now and I just watched this 3 times. Fascinating shit!!!
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cool
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The key must be wide enough for the type of wood and expected forces or it will just snap off.
The US folks like this as a way to establish hunting habitats for deer. I can't see a reason to do it beyond that. Nice demonstration of the technique though!
Why do they use it for deer habitat? How does it help exactly ?
@@ClimbingArborist Hey man - smaller deer species prefer habitats with some degree of ground cover. Ensuring that previously open landscaped ground has sufficient protection for deer to conceal themselves behind helps retain the population on your property, to encourage them to stay and breed. Dropping trees in this way help hunters to establish pathways and cover in such a way that it channels them through the tree stands and hunting areas.
@@yonmusakI saw a video a while ago where a guy was deliberately barber-chairing a line of trees to make such a path/barrier. THAT was risky.
@@mrcryptozoic817 Oh DAMN, that's nuts!
Does it work on dead trees under 12"?
The tree in the video is about that and dead
I guess this has been mentioned already... but if you make the middle horizontal plunge cut at an angle, you probably don't need to take a small piece out.
Yes, that would work also
Aren't you doing the "steering" when you make the key notch?
are we cutting trees or doing carpentry?
shouldnt the final cut be made a bit higher ? like inch or 2 its helping that the tree is not falling backwards and there is "holder" part that keeps the tree in right direction. oh> 6:35
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But i like your Videos!
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I have the greatest respect for the chainsaw skills needed to do this well. I'm not that good yet, and I don't think I have the patience anyway, so I pretty much just use pull lines, and the trees fall where I want them. Though in a way it is cheating; I'd love to be able to control everything just by the cuts I make.
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I like my logs on the ground
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(Asking, not criticizing) Why not an open face cut instead of conversational?
Likely that you could use traditional, Humboldt or open face, but the traditional forces the hinge to break sooner than open face and the allows the tree to drop into the slot.Whereas if using an open face the tip of the tree may land before the butt end has come away from the hinge and slotted into the stump.
But they start with a conventional face cut then modify it to an open. Why wouldn’t they just start with an open?
if you realize your aim was off after cutting your key notch, can you correct your notch?
If you realize when it’s just the face cut out in then yes, would be hard to correct the entire thing
@@ClimbingArborist figured that thanks
show how to do with axe plz
Rather not
Pretty cool. You can also carve it into a bear, for example. :)
Totally!
I'm a fat old arborist, my scarf cuts are always at that height....
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If you're experienced enough to safely and accurately make this cut, you probably don't need it. I like how you didn't mention how this technique revolves around a major chainsaw no-no; don't use the tip of the bar for cutting. This is how kickback and hospital trips happen. Do you want a chainsaw in your shoulder? Because this is how you get a chainsaw in your shoulder.
A Plunge cut if done correctly is a necessary and standard technique for a good chainsaw operator . You need to plunge for various techniques such as a dogs tooth felling technique to prevent barber chair
There is no middle ground opinions on this. It's either decisive and unrelenting mockery opinions or brilliant - inventive statements. Fortunately I don't have to pick because I never have to cut trees big enough to worry about (trunks not much over 6").
Agreed, it seems a bit like marmite, you either love it or hate it
I have a feeling that this could be potentially dangerous. If the tree isn't perfectly healthy and you have two back cuts it might not do what you predict.