Testing Sawmill With Rusty 40' (1m) Blade - Old Sawmill Repair #6
I started an old sawmill repair. It's a mobile sawmill that has been junked. It has a bent frame in several spots, the axle is cut off, the drawbar missing, lots of rust, and so on...
In this episode, I found that we have one rusty 40' (1m) blade and switched to this one. I filed the rust off from the teeths and sharpened it with the flat file. This blade cuts much better but still cuts sometimes off to both sides. I just wanted to test with this blade because I need to adjust the saw to 40' (1m) blade anyway. So enjoy the video and leave me a comment about tips and tricks and all that what I'm doing wrong or right.
Cheers! :)
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In this episode, I found that we have one rusty 40' (1m) blade and switched to this one. I filed the rust off from the teeths and sharpened it with the flat file. This blade cuts much better but still cuts sometimes off to both sides. I just wanted to test with this blade because I need to adjust the saw to 40' (1m) blade anyway. So enjoy the video and leave me a comment about tips and tricks and all that what I'm doing wrong or right. Cheers! :)
@@raimolopp577 i
Thank you for taking us along with you on your journey to resurrect this old saw mill. I’m enjoying every episode and look forward to the next. I love seeing old equipment and machinery brought back to life and used once again. I know you will find a way to make it cut true.
Thanks 👍 you'r welcome!
I sure have enjoyed watching you on this project..I run a circle mill here in the USA... keep the videos coming 😊
Awesome! Thank you!👍
Get book on circular sawmills. Will show you how to hammer blade . Will also explain setups to cut straight. I bought 2 different books. Awesome setup and enjoy seeing you operate and saw tember
Works well for a first Time . Keep it sharp
Do not forget about log taper. Square up the log on all sides and then see what it does.
Great video sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice sawmill setup
Hyvä tullee 👍🏻 Good job
Very good 👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
The saw needs to be tensioned that is why it seems "floppy" and likely hammered as well, please stop reaching around that running saw, if you want to sand the rust off use an angle grinder with a little kerosene for lube with the saw off the arbor or at the very least not running someday, you'll pull back a stump where you used to have a hand. Great job you're doing well just be careful.
Thanks! But the blade will go straight again if it's cooling down again. At the and of the video the center of the blade is very slightly warm. But seems tha it may need hammering.
Great video. Having 2 more people would make your life so much easier.
For sure, I'm just trying out the saw and tuning it in. I'm not going to cut all that by myself
Those bearings are a good thing to check out.
I did that one in my previous videos.
Kyllä siitä hyvä tulee. Vähän harjoittelua ja terän käytät teräsepällä kunnostuksesa. Hankin sellaisen 12 tuuman sirkeli viilan, jakomittarin ja vääntimen, niin saat terän pysymään iskussa. Tukkikasan sijoitteluun ja vyörytyspuihin kannattaa myös panostaa, kun ei ole hydraulinostinta käytössä.
Love seeing these things work. I'd love to own one myself as I've said previously. Great work bud. You've got an efficient future of cutting ahead of you. Maybe a log loading ramp maybe on the cards next or another piece of machinery ? Keep em coming buddy 👍
Thanks! Log loeading ramp is coming.
And make sure all the rollers are well lubed and not binding. Any resistance can throw measurements off.
Online you can find a calculator for pulley size and speed so you measure your pulleys and you know the PTO speed this will help with the proper speed for your blade. Good Luck and Godspeed.
As I watch you cutting the lumber, I see how you are aligning up the wood by bumping it to be in line. I wonder if you could build an attachment that when the back fence, or whatever it is called, comes forward, so does another such fence further down from the blade so the wood is perfectly aligned for the cut. Than you would get perfect width cuts... Thumbs Up!
My thoughts exactly, but the devil is in the details of how the table is constructed. A back fence couldn't come up from the bottom of the table and would most likely have to be leveraged on a solid post installed besides the table on the frame of the saw mill. It also would need to be moved out of position when cutting off excess. Since the saw has hydraulics, there might be a way to have the operating controls close to the main working position of the operator. Lots of technical details to be worked out. A laser could also help, but needs to be bright enough for daytime... maybe a laser from a laser level.
It's possible to manufacture everything that you can imagine
I'll suggest making sure your setup hasn't settled, and put your feed table into a twist in relation to your blade and feed rollers. Look up leveling a metal lathe, that general procedure should work well enough. Once the initial settling is done in any particular spot, you may need to check it again with every major change in temperatures (spring and fall).
Hienoa että vanhempia kenttäsirkkeleitä on ehjänä käytössä tuo mukavat ajat mieleen kiitos videosta
Minkälaiset suunnitelmat sulla on tuon sahan varalle? Kenties sahalaitokselle vois tehdä linjaustarkistuksia, että vois sahata mitallistettua sahatavaraa vai nykyaikaistaa lankkutavara sahauksissa käytettyä kiinnipito asetelmaa.
C'est un quai qu'il vous faut !
Paras vuosimalli saha😀👍
Seems to me the Carriage is contacting the Blade Washer and you can Drip Water onto the blade to help keep it cool. Hammer to stress relieve the blade. Rust is an insulator shiny it best. Been watching and like what you are doing.
Cool, thanks! Yes, I saw that too. I will check that, maybe the carriage has bent edge or something.
I don't know anything about these saws, but wouldn't it have been easier to sharpen the blade whilst it was out?
I think not. It's good to do it on the mill.
👍👍👍👍
Make sure you have an expansion bearing nearest the tractor. The fixed bearing should be by the saw. If you have two fixed bearings on your saw shaft things will get hot.
Fixt bearing is near the blade.
Are you 100% sure that the 4 feed rollers are parallel to the blade? Lovely project and have enjoyed the videos, looks like you will fly through those logs once all set up right
I'm not sure but looks like that. I don't have problems with that. Problem is that the blade wants to go sometimes off the cut to the material side or to the log side and that eats the blade adjusters also
@@AFHProjects yeah I saw that dishing on the blade at the end! Just thought maybe if the timber was being fed in not quite parallel then that might cause the blade to be heating up the centre if the timber is rubbing there. And with that hydraulic arm the timber is held very tightly
@@lordrust9826 Thanks for your thoughts. I will check that.
Gloves and circular saws are a recipe for disaster. Please be careful, you only got two arms.
Hi. Sounds better than first. It needs tension. Is there anyone one where you live that does circle saws ?. Your guilds should be adjusted to almost touch the saws side.When you were moving the saw from side to side ,one side hit before the other, which means it is dished toward that side. It will need hammered and a tension put in. Is there something rubbing the collars that hold the saw to the shaft ? They looked shiny ?. If so that can cause heating. Hope this helps a little. All my best.
Yeah, the carriage touches the side a bit, need to figure out that. My guilds were adjusted but the blade eats them away cuz it's cutting sometimes off to the sides. When I was moving the blade side to side I wanna show exactly that the blade took the dish shape and when it all cool down then the blade is holding stright again. The center of the blade is slightly warm. Bearly noticeable.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️
There is a KZhead channel called essential craftsman, in one of his earliest videos was about having a portable circular sawmill. He spoke about how his father in law (I think) explained that there was a very specific speed that a saw blade had to run at and described it as surface feet per second. It seemed almost like a DaVinci code to me. You may be able to find the video to see what it was and apply it to yours to see if it helps.
Nice! Seems to be a interesting channel. Thanks!
You told us watching people, that your sawblade is getting too warm (hot). I can not see the teeth of your blade, but if they are too much in line with one another, that can cause excessive heat. You should control the line of the teeth; one has to be bend a little to the left and the next a little to the right. all around your blade. So that the path, the teeth are making is wide enough, that the blade is not touching the wood, that is already been sawn. This can be a cause for warming up your blade. So look over the teeth and be sure, that there is space enough and the blade is free from the wood. Using the circular saw, makes the teeth lining up.Only sharpening the teeth is not enough for sawing lumber.
Yea, I know. That plade has quite good teeth set. I think at least half of the blade thickness. Maybe it's need to be more?
You did a FINE job but getting the set on the teeth will probably involve taking the blade off and putting it on a jig for getting the set right on both sides. And you might have to replace the main mandrel shaft bearings but keep them greased well and see how they do. And when the blade gets hot is a sign of maybe the wrong speed. It'll take a while t work the bugs out but it's doing VERY well opposed to what it was. A-PLUS!
I did try out the different speeds, but the bearings still will get quite hot. I washed out all the old lube and put the new in but... I think that some warming is normal. I will get the new and hopefully correctly hammered blade with carbide tips. Then I'm going to check all things again.
@@AFHProjects Seems like you ought to be able to get some documentation on that mill from somewhere and get the running specs on it. And it with a p.t.o. drive ought to be standard p.t.o. speed to run it. A nice PDF owners manual ought to tell everything needed and maybe that's why the bearings are getting hot too. Might be too fast. It sure is an interesting rig the way it's built. You've come a long way with it already but there are always things that have to be dealt with. GBWYou!
@@lewiemcneely9143 Yeah, a good user manual can be helpful. Need to find somewhere.
@@AFHProjects It'd sure answer a lot of questions or at least give you something to start on! Ideas to juggle around.
Yeah, thanks 👍
I know on our mills the blade doesn't run parallel with table. That's because blade favors 1 side when it cuts. The books I mentioned explain very well
Smaller blade cut off to the material side and this one is cutting to the log side sometmes. I think it's in blade. Blade seems to be parallel.
Odds are that you didn't get away with not having a pin in the collar...
Hey, is that saw made in Finland? Perhaps kara-branded?, 🤔
Laimet tuo on 🙂
Vinge värk. Plaanid sellega mingit tulu hakkata teenima? 👍
I have discovered both this and your channel recently!
@@Frank-bh3cm cool frank! AFH has tons awesome videos and tools.
Ei tea, mõnee naabrile ikka. Rohkem ikka endale.
Thanks Frank! You'r welcome!
Показывает что напильником точит ,а по диску видно что станком точили
Viilalla vaan yhteen suuntaan teroitetaan?
Se on juurikin näin. Työnnetään ,mutta ei hinkata ja ollaan sisällä tai ulkona ,mutta ei rampata.
Teroita suorassa kulmassa
@@AFHProjects Minuako yrität neuvoa.
Is there enough set in the saw teeth or maybe a few teeth lost their set. Blade will wander if this isn’t right.
Much better set than the smaller blade, but I'm not sure. I think that I will wait till the new blade arrives. It must be ready for cutting so then I will see if it's the blade, sawmill, me, or all together 😅
As mentioned, the saw looks like it may need to be hammered out
I think that too. I'm interested to learn it.
I'm not sure what you paid for this sawmill, but considering the current price of lumber, it will pay off for you many times over!!!💯 I just checked lumber prices at Lowe's in Eugene, Oregon and Oak unfinished 2X8X 10foot boards are 27$ U.S. and 2X10 x 10',are 34$ each!!!!!🤯 You sir,have a modern day goldmine!!!👍💯 A stack of lumber is usually 8X8 or 64 pcs.. So retail price for a stack of 2X8X10' would equal 1,728$!! Even if you discount 30% for being a small independent business, still comes to 1,209$!!💯👍👍💰💰💰
It's good for sure if you are able to mill your own logs
Fantastic, please use some common sense with safety, as a few people have mentioned, all it takes is a moment and you will a missing finger, hand or even a limb, good to see the progress
a cuantas rpm la sierra ??
Alrededor de 1000 rpm
@@AFHProjects Guau, parece mucho ,,, estoy armando uno y la sierra es igual . gracias amigo
40 дюймов
друже , змазуй диск циркулярний мастилом , диск мусить бути чистим від корозії і змащений , тоді гарно пилятиме , і рівно і не буде важко на двигун
Ви праві, але я вже перейшов на диски 1 метр і вони нові.
Blade quides need to be closer . They are only thing to keep dimensions.
Yea, I have. But the blade eats the quides quite fast
Very expensive to run that tractor to cut logs
Why's that?
Had a quick look but stop watching when you started sanding that saw while running know some people that had accidents with saws please be careful and make sure someone is with you when working with that machine but great job getting it running again .
Yes, I don't recommend noone to do these things. I do this very carefully (risk is everywhere)
Cool machine. Please keep your hands and arms away from the spinning blade.
Thanks, will do!
skaffa nån som kan vässa och spänna och rikta bladet åt dig
По два лафета за раз.
osta uusi terä, tuo terä on vaarallinen, kuivasissa se alkaa väpättämään,
Uusi terä on tulossa
40’ equals 12 meters . . .
Yes, I mean 40" Thanks!
So my friend, picking up those logs by yourself is going to ruin your back,also you stand a chance of being crushed if it falls back on you!! Build a small "L" shaped Gantry crane with a electric winch using two cables to pick up logs. Weld it onto the side of the conveyor,and using the winch with a pulley system, you can sling the cable around a log and hoist it onto the conveyor.... Also invest in a wood chipper so all the trimmings can be chipped into mulch for your gardens!!! Every bit of those logs is valuable!! The 1" trimmings can be used as Tomato and vegetable stakes.. Remember, unless you're selling this lumber for commercial purposes, it doesn't have to look pretty! As long as there's two flat even sides for nailing,some bark or uneven edges doesn't matter.. The less you can trim,the more usable lumber!!💯🙂 Really great job,and I love the progress you've made!!👍👍
He'll probably use the trimmings for firewood
@@PeterColmore Sure,like I mentioned, every bit of those logs is valuable..🙂
I'm just picking some logs to test my mill. I'm going to figure out something so I don't have to do this with my back price :D Trimmings are used for firewood. Thank you for watching!
That’s 40” not 40 feet chief
Thats right.