How To Remove Electrolytic Capacitors - 3 Great Methods
2024 ж. 27 Қаң.
20 376 Рет қаралды
Electrolytic Capacitor Removal - 3 great Methods is a clear informative tutorial showing the 3 best removal options for your SMD Electrolytics.
Including clear , informative video guides of every method , you will get to learn the best option for each different removal scenario.
Showing Do's and Don'ts and things that can go wrong , this guide is all you need to help you with your Electrolytic capacitor removals in the future.
If you enjoy this soldering video and found it of use please consider liking and subscribing and make sure to hit the notification bell so as to not miss out on any future soldering / desoldering releases on the Mr SolderFix KZhead channel.
Thank you and Good luck
Mr SolderFix
#soldering #electrolyticcap #smdsoldering
You always know when you're watching a guy at the peak of whatever game they are in - they make it all look simple. Kudos, Mr SolderFix.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very kind of you . I started this channel just to try and help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues , when I get nice comments it makes it all worth it . Thanks again , take care 👍
You are hands down the best channel for soldering techniques. Good stuff.
Hi , thank you so much for supporting my channel , it's great to know you enjoy the content . All I wanted to do when I started the channel was to help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues , if I can then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I implement these tricks at work. The twist off is my preferred, but I also use a flat head to press down on the plastic base of an smd cap. It gives extra safety to avoid damaging the trace.
The twisting method works great as long as you DO NOT PULL UP WHILE TWISTING. Take it slow and only twist horizontally. You'll hear and feel when it's broken free with a little click. Then you can start pulling up. Practice on a donor board and see if you're comfortable doing it. If you've never done it, you might be surprised how well it works and I've come to the conclusion there's LESS chance for damaging the board this way for caps that would otherwise be stubborn. I like the twisting method and two irons method much better than hot air re-work at protecting the board and neighboring components.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I agree 100% with everything you said , hopefully the video can help a few people out and help them choose the correct methods for their jobs . Thanks again , take care 👍
If the pad has been marinated with a leaking cap over time would not the pad lift off if you twist the cap? I feel that when a cap has been sitting under a leaking cap it takes not that much force to lift it from the PCB.
Hi , the pads are no more at risk with the twist method than the other methods . If you hold the pins down with tweezers or fine pliers the twist method will in my view be safer . Excess heat from hot air or 2 soldering irons is more risky as the pads may be weakened to start with . Sometimes pads with leakage on can hold up and clean up to be re-tinned quite well . Thank you for your comment , take care 👍
Thank you for your video instructions, You have upped my soldering /de-soldering game. I'm so glad I found your channel.
Hi , thank you so much for your generosity , it's very much appreciated . I'm really glad you enjoy the videos and find them useful , that's great to hear . All I wanted to do when I started my channel was help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues , it's nice to know that some of you it has aided . Thanks again and good luck with all of your future soldering projects. Take care 👍
There is a fourth option: clip the capacitor (on same direction as the pads), applying a downforce to ensure no lifting during the cut. I tried twisting in the past and had issues lifting traces. Cutting has been safe to me - and after the cut, it is the same what you done, remove the plastic and dessolder the pads, clean etc. Love your videos, always learning something
Whould it work with polimer capacitors?
@@toiganmalot8576 it should, as you clip the pins in the same way. I did this a couple of times, don’t recall if the caps were Elco ou Polymers. I would appreciate if anyone could provide feedback on their experience
Yep, that’s how I do it too. Never failed me!
Hi , thank you for commenting , much appreciated 👍
Awesome methods if you have a good PCB with a bad capacitor. Just the other day I was faced with the challenge of salvaging a 1000uf 6v SMD cap off a scrap board, I tried the 2 iron method but due to the size of cap and power planes I stood no chance - and your other 2 methods would have destroyed the capacitor. I ended up heating the board from the bottom with hot air until it came off - thinking about it now the safest way would have been to preheat the board then use the 2 iron method. Keep up the great work!
YES! I was practicing on scrap boards with my new hot air station and struggled with electrolytics. I had the same concern about heat. The twist method really helped me out. I did it nice and slow like you showed on the video. Awesome. I did put an extra new soldering station on my wanted list, doh!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video of use that's great to hear . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Hi, thanks again for your work, I'm learning about restoring really old computers, and your videos are great resources. One question: do you have a page detailing the tools and supplies you use or recommend? That would be very useful too.
I personally dislike the plier method - but you did the right thing in showing it as well of course. For large caps - which are often on power planes - I pre-heat the surrounding with hot air, add leaded solder to the legs, then use two irons. 5 seconds and even the largest 10mm 1000uf ones come off easily. Without pre-heating, it's a struggle indeed. I remove hundreds of those caps for work, so far I've never damaged anything. Thanks for the video!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's experiences , the more methods that can get mentioned the more options people will know about to choose from . I love the twist method but I always say if you have a method you like stick with it . Thank you again , take care 👍
Helpful as always!
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
Thank you for another great video. Worth wearing eye protection or at least turning away before cutting the capacitor leads preventing the plastic base from being lifted, they can go a long way.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . You are right its definitely worth turning away or wearing eye protection . In fact when I cut the legs in the video I heard my neighbour shout . I reckon I might have scored a bullseye 🎯 . Thanks again , take care 👍
If you are using a hot air gun to remove a component you can protect the components around it by making a heat sheal out of foil. You are right sometimes the only way I can remove a component on a large heat plane is to cut or break the legs as you have shown. Very good point about the potential for a capacitor to explode.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
All excellent ways of Metal Capacitor Removal. Thanks for sharing with us. Happy New Year to you.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your continued support of my channel , very much appreciated . Hopefully the video can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
I recently encountered a welding problem, which was to help a customer repair the aluminum induction coil plate of the induction cooker. Normal solder wire cannot weld aluminum wire at all. Greetings from fans in Taiwan!😊
Hi , thank you for supporting my channnel , very much appreciated . Aluminium needs a special type of solder , normal solder used on pcb's just won't do the job . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you for sharing. Let's Twist Again - Chubby Checker.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks for the video. All the best, and more and more videos.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciate your support . I will always post more videos when I get some spare time , but at times I am really busy and struggle to post . Thanks again , take care 👍
Very interesting and informative video, thank you for your time and video.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Thanks for the video, well presented, thanks.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Great! Thanks for your vídeo.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , it's really appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great video
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Awesome job 👍👍
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Another real nice trick with make a U or C piece with some 2.5mm mains cable core and slide it around the base and touch both pads and heat with the iron and it will heat both sides at the some time. With a little flux it’s incredible how it will help remove any difficult multi pin connectors or components like this. On the caps exploding it’s a very real risk with air and had a few go off in my face a few times. Never fun
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated . I agree the wire trick is great . I've posted a few videos showing this on my channel , they are some of my most watched ones . Thanks again , take care 👍
Very good video, thanks.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Hi Mr Solder, i just stumbled accros your channel and i like your vids they're really detailed and helpfull. I need some help on figuring out an issue with my new soldering station 2in1 its yihua 882D but the screen sometimes shows the temperature and sometimes it bugs out and stays like that i have a suspision theres a cold joint somewhere or one of the ICs is dead and iam not really sure. Sometimes when i turn it on the screen doesn't turn on everything else works on it tho, when the hot air reaches temp it pulsates to stay at the selected temperature.
Twist method with some downward force works great for me. I had to practice to learn to pressures, but I don’t damage the board. I’ve had popped caps from hot air tear more traces.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It's great to hear your experiences , this will be invaluable for some people . The more information we can all share the better for everyone . Thanks again , take care 👍
I'm trying to remove the remnants of a broken USB type B port and put a new one in. Its been 30 years since i learned how to solder in highschool. Your videos should definitely help me where im struggling. I got 3 of the 4 pins out and now i have to get the two hooks out. Then clean up the holes and put a new one in. What sucks is its a tiny circuit board attached to the back of n electric motor. Because its used for Sim racing the manufacturer glued all the wire connections so im trying to do it with out removing all those connections grrrr!! Of all the things to do, gluing things to a circuit board sure seems dumb! Especially considering they glued the snap on cover that secured the circuit board to the circuit board. Im praying i didn't damage anything breaking that glue seal to gain access to the board! Such a pain in the butt but its a $1200 wheel base and out of warranty. I asked several electricians shops if they could do it and they all said no. I even emailed a few people who advertised electronics repair and none of them got back to me. So it was either have a $1200 paperweight or try to fix it my self.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very kind of you . I know what you mean about glued items in circuit boards . If I have access I sometimes in the past have used my soldering iron to burn through some of the glue ( using fume extraction ) and then I just try and scrape or pick at the remnants until I achieve what I need to . But it can be painstaking as you have to be so careful . I hope you get on ok , keep me updated . Thanks again for your support , take care and good luck 🤞
Cheers for this. Not had to do this yet myself. What make are your tweezers? They come to a really nice point. Thanks again.
👍Thanks!
Hi , thank you so , so much it's really appreciated . I'm always happy when I get comments that my channel has helped a few people out. Thanks again for your kindness , take care 👍
Thanks for more great de-soldering techniques! Do you ever use a heat plate to bring the board up in temperature before de-soldering?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I do use one occasionally in my normal working day as it can aid massively in certain circumstances . I usually try and preheat to 100 degrees Celsius . But in all of my videos I post I have never used one as I know a lot of people watching won't have access to one . I try and show methods that can get around not owning one . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Thanks for the tips. Could you tell me what type of flux you are using? Can't see the forest through the trees 🤔
Sometimes Hobby Brass can be hacked to make a 'U' shaped extension tip in a pinch. Say for a situation like @ 1:13 where you might need to remove C22. It's funny on the layouts for audio where they use a big cap but have really fine traces, vs beefing up the mechanical strength to help a pad by using wider traces just off the caps ( @ 10:28 C7 ). Thanks for these awesome tips!
I'm using a heat gun from the other side. It's better because the parts around don't melting sonn. The twisting method is also excellent. Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I've seen this done . In my opinion not ideal . Your blasting potential components that are directly underneath where your Electrolytic is positioned with unnecessary heat for a long time , some of these may be plastic connectors etc . Twisting is definitely the best answer for the larger difficult ones . Good to hear your method though , some people may benefit from this option . Thanks again 👍
Sweet
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
If it's not too much to ask, could you make a video on how to use the various types of soldering iron tips? I can't find any good videos on when to use chisel tipd vs bevel tips, etc for example
should the twist method be use if there's leaking caps and potential damage pads from the leaking caps?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The twist method is actually no more risky than the other methods when you may have leakage on the pads . If you place fine nose pliers on both joints to aid security of the pads then twist this is way safer than heating up with 2 irons or excessive hot air . Definitely my preferred method in situations like you've mentioned . Thanks again 👍
It is funny that the twist method is so controversial. But I gave it a try. And if you are patient it works. It's my preferred method now as it does no damage.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I think we are all skeptical at first with the twist method , but done correctly it's really great and safe . Thanks again , take care 👍
For the hot air method, what temp and airflow are you using?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Generally I would always start hot air at about 375 degrees Celsius for lead free and a little lower for leaded . If you are working on ground plane pads for instance you may need to go up sometimes to 430 degrees . Trouble is you can then damage parts or even the board itself . Best thing start low with temp , go up gently and up the air flow as well , this really can help . Protect nearby parts with Aluminium foil , not Kapton tape . Hope that helps , good luck 👍
What cleaning fluid do you use?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use ULTRASOLVE cleaning Fluid , definitely the best I've ever used and I think I've used pretty much every type going over the years . Farnell and RS Components is where I normally purchase it . I buy 1 litre bottles then used dipped Gtek dry wipes from Grove Sales ( England ) , this combination is amazing . I've done a complete video on my channel showing how I clean my boards including whole boards not just isolated components . Thanks again , take care 👍
I like to use low melt solder. Most of the time you can do the two soldering iron method with just one iron. That low melt stays liquid long enough to have both joints melted even when you take the iron off the second joint.
Stupid question - maybe there's a nifty solution already available and I just haven't found it yet: what can I do, if that plastic base plate of a smd cap is glued to the board? I've had encountered that in a recent (and my first ever) smd recap project. Heat it up with hot air and then pry it off?
How about using Kapton tape to protect adjacent components?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've shown in some of my other videos how I protect certain parts from hot air . Where many people go wrong is using exactly what you stated "Kapton Tape ". This doesn't protect many parts from hot air particularly plastic bodied components . You need to use Aluminium foil tape , amazing stuff as I've shown in many of my videos . On a different scale of protection to Kapton regarding heat protection . Thanks again 👍
Nice. With the big one at the end, the question is how do you solder in the replacement!
Some mentioned the Stanley knife method slowly cut. The cap above. The. Plastic? Through the pins,, I use the. Copper wire method on a 40 pin chip with blade solder iron work a treat
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Right at the end of the video I mentioned about cutting through the body was not an option I personally would consider. It's a bit similar I guess to putting a Stanley knife though it . I think these 2 methods just stress the pads a bit to much and especially pushing from the side with a knife is very risky for the pads . But I always say if you have a method that works for you stick with it . I feel like the more methods we can get out there the more choice you have to try . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 do you push down on the cap when you twist. To make. Sure. Not to rip. The. Pads?
Hi , not with great pressure I don't . Light pressure , gently twisting either way , increasing this until you eventually break the pins . I used to feel this was risky like a lot of people do but now I do this method without even thinking when I need to . It's a great option at times and shouldn't be dismissed. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thks
Hi , no problem 👍
How to solder new smd cap ?
Hi , I've showed this in a few other videos . Recently I posted a video all about Capacitors and how to solder them . Electrolytic caps are shown in this video . Hope that helps , thanks for your question 👍
🏆
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Hybrid method: Iron on the Neg side, focused hot air on the other. Lower hot air temp, less time = safer than hot air alone and less awkward than tweezers or two irons. You can even mask the can with kapton or tin foil for even more safety. When caps have leaked and the solder will not melt at safe temperatures then you absolutely must add fresh solder. It will often refuse to take but if you keep at it with flux and a high tip temp you will eventually get it to melt/mix again without blowing up the cap. Many people cut the can with flush cuts but I would not recommend this unless the whole board is immediately going in the ultrasonic cleaner. Even if you clean off the electrolyte that spills out, surface tension, osmosis, or whatever will pull it under chips and into clogged vias where it will resist traditional cleanup and eventually corrode.
I just twist them in one direction not back and forth works great and fast
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you like the twist method , some people are still skeptical about it but same as you I love it at times . I always say if your method works for you stick with it . My methods work for me so I've always stuck with them . It's always good to hear about the way other people approach their work . Thanks again , take care 👍
It would have been interesting to see you attempt the last one with two soldering irons. I presume you'll use a soldering iron to solder the replacement back,, won't you?
Hi , some of the big Electrolytic Capacitors are extremely difficult to remove with 2 soldering irons , even using large tips , especially when connected to ground plains . I will always remove these with the twist method , think I said this in the video . Yes I do solder them back on with a soldering iron , seems easier to flow on nicely than take off . Any gold pads on boards where ELECTROLYTICS are going I pre tin first then braid off the solder so I have a perfectly flat , tinned pad . Hope that answers your question , thanks again for your time 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 No, thank YOU for your time.
Am surprised you’d recommend the twist method. It always looked extremely haphazard and prone to board damage, but perhaps with practice it might be an option. I’m convinced older boards (eg 90s) are too fragile for this though. I like the two iron method though you need some dexterity. 😂
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The twist method is actually no more risky than the other 2 methods , in fact I've seen much more damage done to boards using the other 2 methods . Any old board from the 70's , 80's etc is a risk due to their age . As I showed in the right situation and done gently the twist is definitely the best option . 3 minutes of hot air pumped into a board for example is a terrible option and 2 irons ( soldering tweezers ) just doesn't work at times and you seriously risk the pads loosening due to the time you have to wait for the solder to melt the whole length of the joints . Hope that explains my findings . Thanks again 👍
I've been using the twist method on many 90s boards, including boards with corrosion from leaky caps and batteries. I've yet to lose a pad to this method. I think one of the main reasons it works so well is that it doesn't heat the pads up so it's not weakening the adhesive holding the pad to the substrate. Another useful point of this method is that it works well also on corroded pads and solder joints where it can be hard to get good heat transfer going. Before this I was using either two soldering irons or hot air on these and I certainly lost a lot more pads compared to the twisting method. I can only recommend to grab some scrap boards and practice a bit as other commenters have said, it looks a lot more violent than it actually is. Low force, push down gently, don't twist too far and don't pull up too early and it should come off without forcing anything.
Hi , thank you for your comment , it's always great to hear other people's experiences with these sorts of problems . The more information we can all get out there the better for everyone . Thank you again , take care 👍
Thanks for replying to my comment! I’ll be sure to give this a go next time I have a need, though I will practice on scrap boards first! The twist method does indeed look pretty brutal, which has put me off it. But maybe the bit I’m missing is that the caps are not as solidly built as I think they are, so the force going into the board is more limited. Actually one datapoint: the last time I did some recapping, an Amiga 1200 c. 1993, I had one cap explode and a ripped pad. Method: hot air! Exploding caps is another hazard avoided with twist. It does raise the interesting question of why some extremly experienced techs are against it. Anyway thanks again. 😊
Hi , thank you for your support . You are right , the component leg is quite weak where it enters the main body and breaks easily when twisted gently side to side . I use this method quite a lot these days , never have a problem with it . I was quite sceptical at first but not anymore . Thanks again , take care 👍
💪💪💪💪👍👍👍👍👍👍!!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
You're welcome!@@mrsolderfix3996
✔🎖
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Strange capacitors indeed. Hard to remove, hard to install. Or?
Caution -These types of capacitors explode due to overheating while desoldering as seen in the video
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Some of the smt devices are so badly designed for rework.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . You are definitely correct on this , they do like to test people who have to do rework . Thanks for your time , take care 👍
this is very nice video you did but the question how you can solder it back if you have a video please posted
Hi , I have posted many videos showing how I solder Electrolytic capacitors on . I recently showed a video totally on surface mount capacitors . Within this video you will find how I solder them on . Hope that helps , thank you for your comment 👍
can you send me a link how to do soldering for this capacitor
Clean both pads. Add a VERY small amount of solder to one. Place capacitor. Reflow solder to tack capacitor. Reflow again if you need to straighten or realign. Only once it is straight and aligned, solder the other side, then return to the first side and add fresh solder/flux. If you start with solder on both pads then the capacitor will not sit flush against the board and could tear the pads when bumped. I also use the lid to my rosin gel flux to pour liquid rosin flux while my SMD electrolytic caps are sitting there. It makes them very sticky on the bottom and helps the initial solder tack stick.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I recently posted a SMD CAPACITOR guide showing different types of capacitors and within this guide there is a video on how I solder Electrolytic Caps . May be useful for you to see that . I probably posted it a couple of months ago . Take care 👍