Soldering Sheet Metal
2020 ж. 21 Қаз.
94 348 Рет қаралды
Talking about soldering a seam on sheet metal (steel). I am using an electric iron, acid flux and 50/50 lead/tin solder. This is NOT for food use.
Talking about soldering a seam on sheet metal (steel). I am using an electric iron, acid flux and 50/50 lead/tin solder. This is NOT for food use.
Thank you for this very informative video. I found your video because I was looking up soldering sheet metal as it's supposed to be the best way to repair pin holes that rusted through on a fuel tank I'm working on.
Good luck with your project - be safe with fuel tanks! Thanks for the comment.
Very Nice Sir. Excellent 👌
This video is pretty much the best I've seen. You sir are a legend
Thank you, very informative..Cheers
Wouldn't you clean and tin the tip of the iron first?
I miss that class I wish we could of had metals shop 2 when I was in school
nice tutorial..help alot on my retoration..
Glad I could help! What are you restoring?
is that a lead that use on electronics or different type?
@@diyresttube I looked at a roll of solder I would use for electronics. It is 63% tin, 37%lead. It MUST be rosin flux, not acid. Acid flux will eat the wiring! It is also a must smaller diameter= .031"
Huh I always thought you needed silver bearing solder for steel ive only used stay-brite 8 with stay clean flux on steel with great results I’ve had a small roll of safety-silv 45 for years haven’t used it yet though
Old 86 schoolbus. Didn't want to weld. Now i need to find that iron. Thanks.
Tremendously helpful video for trying to understand the basics of basic sheet metal soldering. Can you confirm you're using 1/8" diameter solder? That was my best guess from pausing to read the label. Thanks again!
Yes, 1/8" with a flux core.
Thank You brother.
My dad ran a sheet metal shop in Dorchester MA. The nascent personal computer industry had a few players located in neighboring New Hampshire and was a big portion of the work. Gateway is still headquartered there. Can you imagine that? PC cases being manufactured by union sheet metal workers a stone's throw from downtown Boston. I don't know what other work they did, I don't think they did tin knocking, not off-site anyway. It was more of an in-house operation. 40 guys at it's peak. You know he was more greatest generation than boomer, and those guys had the unions and everyone made a livable wage. If you think about it, most of them had been in the war and that probably head something to do with negotiations. Think of how many guys from your peer group had killed. You could call it a brotherhood, but I think it's more than that. They had seen robber barrons get stupid rich, these were smaller business and the workers made sure they got theirs. You make money, I better make money, buddy.
Good video
Haven't watched to the end yet, but a common tool for, "leading,"was a wooden paddle with bee's wax to smooth the lead used in auto body work prior to the advent of plastic putties. That was when you could still buy solder in stick form at the auto body paint stores...and, I don't remember how I softened the lead (I got some experience helping a friend detail his engine bay on a small SCCA racer 30 yrs ago).
Yes, I've heard of that method. Bar solder is still available too.
I know a guy in Instagram that sells the kit with wooden paddle and stick of lead he also has how-to videos
@@24BLUEELMO please post links...I remember waxing the paddle...I'd like to see it done again!
Hi! Great Video. I have about 300 inches of 22 ga stainless steel gutter joint to solder. I have basically no experience soldering sheet metal..Done lots of copper pipe however. How much of an overlap would you recommend? It's pretty big gutter...5 inch wide bottom and 3 inch high sides (public works job). They spec'd 96% tin and 4 % silver solder. Are there any pointers you can give me? Thank You!
Hi Mike, thanks for the question. When it comes to stainless steel - clean, clean, clean the metal. Use a stainless wire brush. Apply Flux or get flux-cored solder. I would follow the 96/4 as specified as long as you can get it. I typically use a 1/2" overlap. You could solder both sides of the joint for strength and water-tight since this is a gutter project. Are you planning to use an iron or flame? I was thinking a flame might "blue" the metal. Let me know if I can answer anything else - good luck!
I am new to soldering and I wanted ask about the best way to approach soldering 1mm sheet steel pieces of about an inch sq .Could you give me some step by step guidance how I should do this and the equipment it would be best for me to use. My work is more small scale sculpture based as apposed to jewellery?
Hi, I would try your project by following the same steps in the video. The 50/50 solder I used should work good for a sculpture. The iron may be too big, I might try a small flame or butane torch to isolate the heat. Let your work cool so you don't build up too much heat. Good luck!!
I LOVE YOU MR G
After soaking rusty steel in vinegar, can I just paint over the black char that remains? What is the black char? I might use your soldering technique on some hangers on my gas tank to pull out dents. I might make an air filter too. Thanks!
I'm not 100% sure of the vinegar method. I would guess the black is some sort of oxidation - does it sand off? I try to get as close to bare metal as possible before soldering. Thanks for posting.
re 2:48 I you want a strong joint that won't pop apart in a couple of years, see some plumbing videos on soldering, and you will get a full lap adhesive joint that can be nearly as strong as a weld because the contact surfaces actually alloy into one another for the full surface of the lap. and it will even be watertight. re 5:15 No need to clip off a length of solder, the spool acts al a brace instead or in addition to the clamp. re 9.25 Make sure the surfaces are very clean, and the surface tension will pull the solder in for a smoother, more complete joint.
Thanks for your videos. What gauge is your tool tray? Is it plain steel or galvanized?
This project is 24ga plain sheet steel. You could make them from galvanized, but would require removing the coating to solder the corners. I usually apply primer/paint or send for powder coating. If I were making one for myself, 20ga is a great thickness, but for school projects 24ga gives some students enough difficulty. Haha
@@amitesguy thanks so much for getting back to me!😊❤️. Thanks for sharing your experience. I love making stuff
@rwg727 thanks for watching - please share. Lots of videos of projects and techniques I use in my teaching on my channel. If you have any questions or video ideas, please post in the comments and I'll reply. Thanks, work safely!
What wattage soldering iron are you using here? Any brand recommendations? Thanks.
I am using a 250 watt American Beauty iron. Just do a google search to find them.
@@amitesguy Thank you. Yep, I know the brand. Just want to make sure I get o e that's hot enough. I appreciate it!
4You can usually find a butane/propane torch with bottle for $15 or so. Using the iron seems a bit more fiddly and slow compared to a simple small torch. I think the torch makes it a lot easier to makes 3-4 slow passes along your entire work run to get the metal up close to temp so your sure the solder is melting from the heat in the metal vs solder against the iron.
I'm using a torch and my solder isn't sticking to the steel. It's just a thin washer I'm trying to bond. I used Flux paste but I think I need an acid base flux?
Yes acid Flux will would better. Make sure BOTH pieces are cleaned to bare metal. The washer you're using may have a zinc coating if it's standard hardware.
Will this cause rust overtime on the sheet metal if I where to use autobody paint over it?
Troy, I have used this process for around 15 years. Sheet metal projects "under construction" will show surface rust immediately due to the flux. After sanding, primer and paint is applied no further rust has shown. I hope this answers your question - good luck with your projects!
Is the material supposed to be hot enough to melt the solder? Similar to plumbing soldering? I couldnt tell of the solder was melted by the iron or the sheet metal.
Ideally yes, the metal is hot and thus melts the solder. A flame would get hotter than the iron I use with my students, so it tends to melt the solder. Thanks for watching.
Soddering. Love it
very helpful. thanks. but how strong is it? would it hold if you put a chisel between the sheets and gave it a bang with the hammer?
If you clean and flux the metal properly, it is VERY strong. You can always solder both sides of the joint (ex: inside of the tooltray along with the outside joint I showed). I filled one of those 6x12 trays with solid steel bars for lathe work weighing about 60 pounds or so and the solder held fine. It would take a bit of work to chisel the layers apart. Good luck!
can you solder like this on copper or brass sheet?
Yes, absolutely!
Good afternoon. Could you please share the exact Kester solder wire that you are using? A link would be highly helpful and appreciated. Thank you.
It's 1/8" diameter, 50tin 50 lead with an acid Flux core. Any industrial supply should have it. In the U.S. I order it from mcmaster.com
@@amitesguy Thank you very much 🙏
Can this be done with 95. 5 tin. Plummer solder. trying to use it as putty to achieve blending from my mig welding
Possibly. I prefer the 50/50 solder because it has a lower melting temp and sands easier. For smoothing, I would fill with MIG weld or an automotive body-type filler. Good luck!
Interesting
Sir ji, I have Bucket made from stainless steel wire , the lover side जाली cut down, Now I want repair that jali from my 35 watt soldering Iron, by using liquid flex with soldering wire , Would I got to achieve my aims ? Please advise ,
I'm not sure stainless will solder very well. You will need MUCH MORE heat, maybe a flame for your project. 35 watts is for electrical. Good luck!
Does it solder aluminum? Thanks
Yes, you can solder aluminum although it is more difficult than other metals. Clean it well!
@@amitesguy is brazing aluminum the same as soldering?
@@SolRC No. Brazing/welding is done at higher temperatures and the filler material should be the same alloy of aluminum. Solder is usually some percentage of tin/lead/silver and is added to "stick" the parts together. I hope this makes sense - thanks for the question!
Hey can I ask you about the function of using flux?
Flux cleans and etches the metal so that solder will stick. This also creates the surface rust on steel immediately after soldering.
I'd like to get an iron like the one you're using. Will you share make, model number, wattage please and thank you.
americanbeautytools.com/Soldering-Irons I use a 200 or 300 watt iron, however they have bigger and smaller. They are based right here in Michigan (local to me). Good luck with your project!
Sorry that is not how it is done. 1. Flux is needed to create capillary force to suck in the solder unter the sheet metal, thus flux needs to be applied between the sheets not just as the seam 2. You don´t ever heat the solder directly you heat the sheet metal and touch it with the solder so it melts and moves by the capillary force in between the sheets. What happens is that the solder needs to partially diffuse into the metal structure and create a joint, to do so you need to heat up the metal. 3. What you can do is prepare the pieces by "tinning" both sides of the joins and then simply heat up the the pieces why clamping or holding them together. You basically created the first beginner mistake ever.
I've been binge watching the past couple of days and NO ONE has addressed safety as much as you. thank you. lets normalize it
Thank you! I've taught thousands of high school kids at this point in my career - I don't enjoy filling out accident reports. 😔
Thanks...btw it’s Solder not sarder 😃
rivet could be better idea when the sheet metal is that thin
Rivets are used on another project, soldering is the lesson here. Gotta make it a little challenging 😊
My solder on steel 44 gaLLON DRUM JUST ROLLS OFF WONT STICK.
There are many variables to your project. Without knowing the details, my guess would be 1) the metal drum isn't getting hot enough or 2) the metal isn't clean - maybe because of what the drum contained? If you provide more details, I may be able to help. Thanks for watching.
@@amitesguy Fair enough. I step drilled a 1inch hole in the lid of a steel 44 gallon drum and grinned it clean and applying a “bakers” solderine (paste flux) 50-60% Petrolatum, 15% Parafin oils, 10-15% Zinc, Ammonia Chloride, i heated the lid around the hole with butane torch and dab resin cored 50Sn/50Pb 3.2mm solder wire and it doesn’t seem to stick. I thought I’d tin it first then i want to put a 1inch male threaded brass pipe right way through the hole and put two brass flange nuts and add solder to make them join and all seal good to the lid. Basically just a bulkhead fitting. Because once in a 19.05mm OD copper pipe fits snugly right through and i was able to capillary some solder with the butane torch and that worked well but I can’t get the solder to stick or work on the others as described above.
@@ForPropertyInvestors I only use resin core solder on electronics. Try acid core solder or flux.
soLder say soLder
What the hell is sodder
Used mostly on electronic circuit boards to connect and secure the parts together.
Solder is a metal alloy used to join parts - this particular solder is 50/50 tin and lead. The base metals are not melted like welding, rather they are joined by melting an alloy between them. The flux used helps the solder stick to the base metal.
Solder without the soul
@@hyperion3845 I know what solder is but what the hell is sodder . When it gets colder it doesn’t get codder
@@joelehane813 😂
Its horrible , the box solder everything!
Help me understand - you don't like soldering or the Tooltray project? What don't you like about it?
@@amitesguy i don't understand either lol. Thought it was a nice lesson
Sodder
Dear America... The word is SOL DER ING!!! NOT SODDERING!! Please get this right for once. Sincerely, the rest of the intelligent world.
Info is info. Why U Kar?
Well the word originated with the French word "souder" and there is no "L" in that word. Get used to it...oh and we have "aluminum" and not "aluminium" in the United States...
Hey man. Y'all other countries are cute and all, don't get me wrong, we love you little guys. However our military could turn whatever country we want into an ash pile overnight. Us dumb American's own your economy, and it's probably not even worth as much as our highest earning state. California alone is slotted to be 4th largest economy in the world next year. That's American confidence. It's an equal trade, I guess. We say "sodder" you lick Uncle Sam's boot for the privilege of existing. Also the pronunciation "Al-loo-mini-um" should be a war crime. I rest my case.
That tool tray handle is hideous. Use a peice of electrical conduit, or tie-rod bracing for TDC/TDF ductwork. Other than that, decent soldering video, although a drain pan would have been a great way to explain why we still use soldering in our industry. The best advice I can give to any apprentice that is unfortunately stuck starting off your apprenticeship in a shop is to keep your mouth shut and your eyes and ears open, and pay attention to the old timers. If you make a mistake, own it, and keep practicing until your soldered seams are flawless. 🚬🥴🍸