4-star climbing routes are out, 1-star bouldering routes are in! Climbing is a sport dominated by its online popularity rating system. In this video, I seek out the worst-rated boulders at my local crag in Boulder, Colorado.
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The Boulders seen in this video are all located in the Satellites in the Flatirons.
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00:00 Why climb the worst boulders?
00:40 Boulder 1 Garbage Problem
03:50 Classic Pee Spot Boulder
07:22 The Mossiest Boulder Ever
09:22 Potential First Ascent??
10:30 Sandbags, Sandbags, Sandbags
Ratings are a true double edged crash pad. I can't tell you how many times I've had a worse time climbing 3-star and better climbs than just climbing whatever and being surprised at how much fun I had with zero expectations.
I know, it's like the grade hypes it up before you even climb it!
Satisfaction = experience - expectations
This is such a fun concept! Make more of these please. Squat to p was hilarious!
haha thanks! I'll have to go climb some more questionable routes!
Highly rated boulders become bombs after about 3-4yrs of rubber and chalk deposits. Or when they become links of harder variations (sit starts, extensions) and get so much traffic you can barely touch them. I love going for the scary, sharp, mossy, highball, sandbagged , crap landing boulders because at least it’s not like trying to climb a slip n slide covered in lotion
Hahaha. Agreed. I hate polished routes!
Awesome video concept! Can't wait to see the follow-up video where you do this for multi-pitch trad.
I just imagine every climb I can't flash is 2 grades harder than I can actually send, and it makes me so psyched to flail on it.
I like that mindset!
Fun idea. Your videos are great, please keep making them!
Thank you so much! I plan on it!
I do this now and then in squamish where i just go off the path and find climbs that are un rated or low rated, I genuinely really enjoy it because ive found one or two that ruled
Love that! Doing this definitely made me want to try it more with other climbing days and sport routes too.
Thanks Nate, helps a lot!
Yo this video was so good, love the idea.
Haha thanks!!
great vid, loved it
Thank you!
More videos like this. Wire brush could fix most of the issues with these boulder. I would like a sports climbing version of this video
Gotcha! I've never used a wire brush and wasn't sure of the ethics behind it because of the potential to damage the stone. But with this much moss I guess it makes sense.
@@Natemitka yer I don't live in your area, so I don't know the ethics in your area. But I am sure there is a climbing organisation or a climbing grand-wizard you could contact to ask about the ethics of wire brushing.
good video.
please make more of these
Can do!
For me.. looks like a hip breaking extravaganza 😂
You should try it!!
People tend to sandbag bad climbs pretty bad. Or whatever they consider as bad. I do not really agree with that, since a good challenge is just as important as a great line. I do not get satisfaction from climbing a high ladder.
what app is that ? Great video !
The app is really popular in the United States. Its called Mountain Project. Thanks!
Do one star moderates in the PNW next. Hope you like moss
Haha ok on it!
Is this in the flatirons? The rock looks awfully similar to the satellite boulder crag.
Yeah! This is the Satellites
@@Natemitka Oh sick haha, i just finished up my first year of school at CU and I climbed there a few times. I feel like everything is a pretty damn sandbagged compared to other crags.
@@ianjaggi hah! Good to know :) It was my first time there
it’s lichen not moss on the first boulder (i think)
In the UK they would brush them and it would be classic
I should've brought the wirebrush out!
Myths and legends tell a tale of unknown problems, seek what noone else would and you shall learn strange movement on challenging rock, also you will be left alone.
For Spacelab, that is lichen not moss brother =]
Hilarious! 1 star.
Why start so low? Can’t you stand and start climbing?
Yeah. It depends on how the first ascent did it, so if it says sit start in the route description then I’ll do that! But a lot of routes have stand starts too.
Whats the point in rating routes? Should just go off of popularity.
Route ratings are mostly determined by popularity. So unless it's a guidebook written by an individual, ratings are determined by the collective grade that everyone grades a route.
Very cool video but swinging grades to such large margins isn’t realistic. I do think people should truly ignore the rating of boulders
Since when do we use 4 stars 😂
Man that cheaty squat start when it's meant to be a sit on the first problem is a lil sad. Clearly a lot of difficulty there doing the sit properly as the fa did
Wait I’m not much of a boulderer. I didn’t realize, whats the difference between a squat start and sit start?
It's an ethics/difficulty/climbing in "best style" thing. I'm not as hard line as a lot of people, like stack pads til your shoulders are engaged, or squat start if you're truly too short to reach the holds. But your first pull on showed you can do the move with a true sit, so best style is to do that. There's been a bunch of discussion around it on burden of dreams of late, with ryohei getting flamed for not sit starting properly, some decent discussion on reddit too (links don't work here)
@@hijim3874 Ah I see. I didn't know that! I think I was trying to accommodate for the sandbag, thinking surely there must be an easier way to do this.
Hilarious
sit starts exists...
You keep calling them routes when they're problems and it's driving my dumb, pedantic brain crazy.
Haha sorry. I'm more of a sport/trad climber and honestly thought routes and problems for bouldering were interchangeable
@@Natemitka Trad, eh? A braver man than I.