Threading a Ruger 10/22 Barrel for a Silencer!
Let's use the Tormach CNC Lathe to turn some 1/2x28 threads on a Ruger 10/22 bull barrel so we can use a suppressor!
This is a great example of why I love this new Tormach CNC Lathe. Sure, we can turn threads on a manual lathe, but the accuracy, speed and reliability of this setup blows away a manual machine!
Click for our DIY Supressor Build Videos: • Video
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There's something so satisfying when hearing a supressed .22LR.
When threading for supressors you should really do it bore-centric not OD centric. The od and bore can differ by several thou.
I was about to say this. I threaded alot of barrels and always dial it at the bore, never on the outside.
Yes exactly.And except that barrel has no support if its sticking out more than 5x dia, which it is, and we can hear ugly chatter.But to use live center you need to use ID center... he defenetely have no idea what hes doing
@@nerwusek19 i guarantee he knows a lot more about machining than you do
Baffle strike waiting to happen. He’s playing with fire. There’s a huge difference between a machinist and a gunsmith - I have known excellent machinists who are terrible gunsmiths, just because they don’t know the intricacies of firearm operation.
That was great! The Tormach slant bend is amazing, and you make it look easy.
I was never good at getting something that straight with a 4 jaw chuck. That's cool man.
Man!!! The conversational interface is so slick.
The harmonics are just awesome!
Diggin the Intro John, you're a stand up dude. Glad you enjoyed your project, sound supppppper quiet. Good job.
Glad that worked! Seems like you have a solid design. Like usual great videos!
I think your video was awesome. I've been doing gunsmithing for several years now with manual machines and have been looking at getting into CNC
Great project! Thanks for sharing! There is something fundamentally wrong when the machining time to make a suppressor is less than the time to fill out the government paperwork to make a suppressor, and the cost of the materials to make a suppressor is much less than the government tax to make a suppressor. It's particularly stupid when we realize that a suppressor is to a firearm what a muffler is to a car. I guess it's like Will Rogers said. We should be grateful that we're not getting all of the government we're paying for.
Liberty4Ever You must be a Texan - given you know who Will Rogers is... Or, second guess, OK...
Shawn Hawkins Damn, that's rough... lol. Your comment speaks quite loudly about what public schools have become.
shootgp The more I see of home schooling, the more modern public school looks like institutionalized child abuse.
overwatch300 counteraggression oh god please no
I know the ten day waiting period is intended as a 'cooling off' time, but if I had to wait 10 days - I think I'd be wanting to shoot someone... :-) #UnintendedConsequences P.S. - For all the dumbasses that don't know what the word 'sarcasm' means, look it up.
I’m glad you said suppressor put in the title it says silencer. Great video
Nice work. Thank you for sharing
Good stuff! Great threading!
Hey dude, this whole project was super cool!
Great job John! Most of my work is gunsmithing related and I probably thread more barrels than anything else =) A few tips: As other have suggested, you should indicate off the bore centerline rather than the OD, this will ensure that you don't get any unwanted baffle strikes and will also ensure the least POI shift with and without your can. A DTI works wonders when indicating the bore. I use a B&S 1um indicator (0.00003"), but once the stem is doubled from 1" to 2", the accuracy decreases linearly as well, but it's still good enough to watch for wiggle. I do bounce mine off the lands and grooves and have never had any issues at all. The tolerance stacking from pins and rods (i.e. grizzly rod) will only hurt you in the long run and cost extra in tooling. I try to record my machine work when I can. Here's a video of me threading a Remington 22 with an integral recoil lug that wouldn't fit through my headstock, had to resort to turning between centers =) Almost as fast as your CNC! kzhead.info/sun/eaaicrSobpWOmWg/bejne.html Keep the gun-related videos coming!
That is great. The other day I heard a fellow shoot a Ruger 2245 with a suppressor and using subsonic ammo. You could not hear anything but the slide and the bullet hit the steel Thanks for the video.
Though I would have to wait to see the suppressor in action, turned out awesome!
Love the ½ second view of your Vizsla! They are such great dogs, we have a 14 year-old one. Oh, yea, also appreciate your videos!
Nice project. Very cool. I wish I had a Tormach CNC.
First comment! Well done. I am very impressed with how quiet that is. You can plink all day and take out squirrels, cans, rodents... They wont even know what hit them. Any ways, I absolutely LOVE watching the threading. It is incredible how well that machine does it. Something critical I learned when working on barrels is that they need to be bore centered to ensure the threads are centered on the bore, as there can be some inconsistencies on the OD. Did you crown the barrel yourself? It looked very well finished!
awesome job and i love your vids, but i have one question, shouldn't you have zeroed the job to the rifle bore, not the OD? also I would have tidied the end up a bit, which you probably did but didn't show. keep up the good work. :)
you sir are a master!!! what type of blade/ tip is used to shred steel like that.?
I like the effort put in the lighting in your recent videos.
I was going to mention about that in my comment. Left it out. It does look too much though. I'm not an expert nor a KZhead video producer either. I learn SO MUCH just from watching. Its like I don't need to go to college. The answers that I seek in my life are now in my mobile phone. jk
always nice work it would be good to see how well your one compares to commercial when are you going to sort your big retracts out could of save a bit of time
Awesome! Congrats! Sounds very quiet.
I have a 10/22 barrel I would like to thread. The CNC machine and your setup was good. Did you have to do any spring tuning to get the 10/22 to cycle
Another great video, but I was curious about threading without doing the relief cut. I have read about guys with manual lathes doing reverse threading so they don't have to make the relief cuts. I'm trying to learn basic machining on a hobby lathe but was curious about if a cnc machine could do the same and thread from the shoulder out safely? plus I was wondering what your opinion is on threading right up to the shoulder? Is it worth the extra hassle or just a lot of extra work for little gain? I can't find any videos so far on the no relief cut threading, but I just heard about it last night so haven't looked very much yet.
I finally found a drawing that shows the screen section like I mentioned. I sent it you on the Facebook messenger.
Great video!
Beautiful! I need me a tormach
first round pop at 4:15, nice job as well.
You might have to specify the threads a little deeper than needed because there is no spring pass in the generated g code. It is nice that the software does a 30 deg compound angle and a constant area method to get the depth, that makes for nice clean threads.
Really Awesome!!!
Very sweet. I have a weakness for 10/22s. I may have missed it but are you going to turn a cap for the threads when the can is not installed? Also are you using a bolt buffer in your current setup? I've heard that it can help to reduce the sound also by softening the impact of the bolt into the buffer rod.
excelente trabajo
In the UK threaded barrels are really popular as we have had suppressors/moderators available to us for a few years for hunting. I've got a 25 year old 10/22 that was factory threaded for the UK market. if you decide to use one, get some subsonic ammo.....REALLY quiet! most of the noise of the supressed .22 is the supersonic crack. with the subsonic ammo you can hear the working parts moving.
Awesome just awesome!
Are you using water soluble oil for coolant? It just looks like water to me, I'm just trying to figure out if there is something I haven't seen before that I need to try.
Awesome works I like it, I wished to have that for my Sumatra 2500 it's just too loud.
Thanks for the Vid that was awesome I have a suppressor and 2 ruger 10-22 but they both have stock barrels I see you said they don't have enough meat :/ that sucks knowing I need new barrels so I minus well buy threaded ones already..
Would it be possible to turn a regular barrels sights down and thread what's left?
Hi John, what is that stock in your rifle?
Nice Job
You are very good at the CNC. GOOD VEIDO!!!
Neat project. What software do you use to help you to produce the suppressor correctly? I always love making good threads on lathes . Lathes for Lathe jobs Mill for mill jobs!
Nice video and a great job on the barrel and the suppressor. Can you thread SS Barrel? I have a Savage Mark II with a SS Bull Barrel that I would like to have threaded. That CNC Machine is awesome!
were you using sub-sonic rounds?
FREAKIN NICE
I really enjoy your videos...always informative and entertaining. A point of note, barrels are commonly centerless ground. If you want to avoid baffle strikes, turn between centers. After 20 years as a manufacturer in the NFA would...ask me how i know :)
Did you do anything special to keep the four jaw from marring the barrel finish?
I didn't see the CNC machine on amazon so where should i buy one?
Wow! What a difference! That's pretty funny that the bolt is louder. lol Will you be doing a production run of those silencer?
I have no God damn reason to dislike this video
sooo cool!!
Great video as usual. However, I'd like to see the engraving process if you have footage of that.There are a few IOI inspectors here in TX that have a problem with steel punches for the required markings (City, State, SN# ect.). Not that it matters, but there is always the question, "So, where's your engraver?".
Have you tried running the suppressor wet yet?
The feed rate you groove with frightens me lol. I usually keep it under .006/rev. After you chew up a couple groove tools you tend to slow things down.
Awesome results man!!! I was thinking of asking you for a quote on a 10/22 thread job this winter...are you guys open for business on that front? I wonder how hard it would be to make an electronic bolt cycler. It wouldn't be as fast as gas-operated of course, but being able to lock the bolt closed while firing and then operating the bolt with a solenoid might work. Ejection could be tricky, maybe a separate kicker for that. Not really useful for anything, just fun to think about.
What threading tool are you using?
Wondering why you set up the barrel by referencing the outside surface rather than the bore? I know most barrels are bored true but I have seen a few that were a bit out.
it does matter when you are trying to "thread" a high velocity projectile through a suppressor without striking a baffle and causing yourself a heap of read tape headache. If the bore is not quite centered then the barrel exit wont be dead nuts centered on the threads which can cause baffle strikes further down the can.
@@briangamble6200 It is not really that important to get dead on. Most supressors have at least 10 thou on radi to avoid baffle strike.
Nice!
Do you do barrels for anyone
Where is your shop located i would like to see if your interested in doing a savage b mag varmit 17 wsm
How much do you charge to do your majic on a .17?
Dude I just got a ruger 1022 tactical with a bull barrel...i live on long island...I gotta have you do this to my barrel. Can we hook up?
Cool intro-speak!
nice beast...
Why did you dial in the od of the barrel and not the bore?
FYI, When threading for a suppressor, it's very important to indicate from the bore, not the OD of the barrel. I've seen barrels where the OD was nowhere near concentric to the bore. Doesn't look like it was too big of a deal for you this time, but something to keep in mind for the future. Glad to see the suppressor working!
NYC CNC How much trouble would it be to index it from the bore with the Tormach? You might need to make another video :)
metalhead2508 agreed, mosins are pretty crude. When threading barrels, however, it's important for the threads to be concentric, and the shoulder to be perpendicular to the bore so that the bullet does not strike a baffle while traveling through the suppressor. Poor bore concentricity can affect accuracy, but there is a long list of other things to consider when trying to find accuracy. Most bore concentricity issues are a result of the cutter wandering during gundrilling (cutting the bore of the barrel before rifling). It's nearly impossible to get long holes like that perfectly straight, and almost all barrels have a bore that has some bow to it. On good barrels, it's nearly imperceptible, but it's there (I would consider less than a thousandth of an inch over the length pretty good). I've seen barrels where the bore was drilled diagonally down the barrel, and some where the bore was offset to one side. Sleeved barrels are some of the worst, though.
Have you ever threaded a p345 Ruger?
for those of you that do not know you can turn the tool upside down and thread from the shoulder out and not have to worry about the shoulder at all and disengaging is not a worry at all
I hate you,,,,to darn easy with your cool CNC machine,,,,your 3 mins take me 45,,,,,,love it
How much would it cost to have a rifle barrel threaded for a suppressor ?
Shouldnt you have aligned the part by the bore and not the OD?
OMG listen at 5:20 over and over!!!
How much does one of those cost
That is very impressive, I bet it took you longer to set it in the chuck than to machine it..
If I were to have you and thread turn and thread my 223 rifle barrel how much would it cost.
Where can I do that
Cool!
wonder if you can try to thread a henry 22lr octagon barrel. maybe even custom threads on the inside of the barrel then custom fit a suppressor to match the octagon profile? I would really love to see it
+NYC CNC yes it would be an issue but I think you can make it work. hope to see a video or get a price quote
Whenever threading a barrel you always indicate your center off the bore (ID) not the OD. Most barrels bores are not concentric to the turned down OD profile. Indicating off the OD in most cases positions the thread body off center of the bullet path risking bullet strikes to your muzzle device. You need a correct size ground mandrel to slide into the bore in order to indicate while using a 4 jaw chuck. Using an already factory turned OD for indication like you did would have been easier with an accurate 3 jaw with a .0005" runout and obtained the same setup runout result.
In this case you should have made the runout as to the bore and not as to the OD since the bore 99% of the time is not concentric to the OD. Also I would recommend using a 35 degree like a SVJC holder to cut the relief cut at a 45 degree relief and not as a straight wall, and not the groove tool if you plan on doing this in a larger volume.
I know this was uploaded back in 2015, but should you not dial in the machine on the bore not the barrel ? ?
With decibel measuring apps available for phones, would have loved to see readings for non-suppressed vs suppressed to see measueable results John
It is, with impulse noise, not really possible to messure with a phone or any non specialist tool. A phone can not pick up the noise lasting few ms and will give a false low reading. But the difference it night and day, with a supressor, shooting in the dirt, the bullet hitting the dirt is louder than the actual shoot.
I'm curious if you could have done this operation on the Tormach CNC Mill with the rotatory add-on? I MAY be able to swing getting a Tormach Mill or Lathe later this year but not both.
Brian Boatright I'm a manual man, and always will be, so don't take anything I say to be perfect, but: I think you could do it on the mill, but not very easily. Personally, I would advise getting a mill first, because it is more multipurpose, but you would have to consider what work you were going to do, and then decide what to get. You could always get a cheaper manual engine lathe, and do the occassional job like this on it?
I always though you have to center the barrel on the chuck from the bore, not from the outside of the barrel? Reason is that the bore might not be perfectly center.
Joaquin Lopez probably some government personnels paid him a visit...loool
Klass!👍👍👍
Yep... I'd love to thread that efficient on a manual lathe, mostly with a big shoulder waiting at the end. In Canada we have to get other projects than silencer or we could get jailed, fast... Pierre
That's possible, but if you get no room to catch the back lash at the shoulder, the thread will be so so...!!! I can thread at 400 to 600 rpm. but with a big shoulder it gets more around 200 -250, worse when chips and oil obstruct the threading tool and I loose the exact position, this impairs my ability to disengage at the exact right moment.
@0:39 turn down for what?
Wow! You did a really nice job on that suppressor. I wish I had access to the kind of machines you use.
Love your videos, but you cannot index off the outside of the barrel. You need a mandrel and some bushings. Suppressor baffle strikes are possible.
Slightly off the intended topic, but what stock do you have on that 10/22?
Wow, you can shoot a gun like that? What if there was someone in those woods? Just asking because in my country it will be impossible (or restricted by law)
Wow, that's a cool project. Works awesome. A good dti with a tiny-ball-tip on it can setup from the ID of the barrel. Maybe you can find a good dti laying around your shop somewhere ;] Locating a small ID is a pita tho.
NYC CNC I wouldn't expect the riffling to cause a problem, Push the limits of what you know and if one breaks then you'll know the limits. There isn't a singe video on utube on the use of a good dti. Nothing on tip changes(little round disk tool in box) or even how to place the tip in the position needed. Grab the dti in one hand, max the needle to its end of travel and push a little bit harder, it will relocate the tip. It won't break.Im not a fan of putting anything between the object to be located and the dti. A dowel would work, but it screws up your tolerance by adding an unknown. Jonn, I am extremely impressed with this project, and the end result. Holy super spy gear!
John When are you going to do a 1911 build? Jason has files for the frame or sarco has dirt cheap castings for a para p12 for like 30$. I just did one of the sarcos frames and love it.
NYC CNC Of course I want to see 0% barstock. But I would do an 80% if you dont own a 1911 just so you can compare off of. 80% are really easy. There pretty much color by number for adult men. The sarco p12 castings are like 35%. A little harder . What ever you do Im sure we all would love it .
You will be mighty fine, but never ever indicate a Barrel on the Outside Diameter. Use a Range Rod to indicate it from the Bore :) But great Video, as always!
can i make threading the barrel of my arminius 22 revolver what will i do
+Genalyn Balmes Unless you got a M1895 Nagant which is the only revolver on the civilian market that works with a silencer then threading a revolver is not something that will work or even be desirable. You will destroy the resale value of your Arminius 22 revolver if you thread it.
How did you achieve bore concentricity for the threads?
He did not, but for a supressor, it do not have to be dead on, just close enough to avoid baffle strike. For most barrels, indicating the OD is good enough and way faster.
Just the perfectionist in me asking, thank you Sir. And Happy New Year!
I had my 10/22 threaded for a "can" and it screwed up the crown of the barrel. I am sure they did NOT have the type machine used in the video. Very Cool!
+NYC CNC Thanks, I had the rifle re-crowned and now getting tight groups as it did before the threading!