Free heating fuel but it's illegal - £120 8kw Diesel parking heater review from VEVOR
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Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we review the 12V 8KW Diesel Air Heater For RV Trucks (With Blue LCD Display) by VEVOR, also known as a parking heater or multi fuel oil heater. These are ideal for tiny houses, van life and workshops. We will explore how efficient these are to run and the use of free fuels such as biofuel and waste oil.
!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!
I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I'll conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I'll also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. watch here: • £0.03 per kWh heater m...
Uk waste oil burner law article:
www.flexiheatuk.com/small-was...
garagewire.co.uk/news/associa...
info.wesslerengineering.com/b...
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!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!! I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I've conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I've also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the future videos. Watch the follow up here: kzhead.info/sun/Z9iig6l_hmimjIE/bejne.html Thank you Cheers J
You'll probably find it's more like 4 to 5kW - some of them are even smaller. The actual 2kW ones, sold as such, have a lower rate pump. I don't think any of the cheap ones are a genuine 8kW, that's all bullchit.
Please do the followup 😉
@@fredyellowsnow7492 yes this is what I'm now discovering... Cheers J
YOU SHOULD PUT THIS IN THE DESC RIPTION AT THE TOP
@@DICEGEORGE good idea. Thank you. Cheers J
Free....AND Illegal?.....Those are two of my favourite things!, you have my attention good sir.
LoL thank you. Cheers J
i had the same exact thought :D
Anything they don't want you to have is probably awesome! It's amazing how many things I never wanted, but still have, just because people in power don't approve of it.
Josh thanks for this video, I was quite amused that you were new to the world of diesel heaters but very interesting that you can use alternative fuels. Im new to your channel and having flicked through your content you have a new fan! Very talented and very well presented. Thanks again Mike
I fitted these on boats and lorries for years, I'm a boat builder now so still deal with them and if set up correctly they last forever👍 First thing mate you need to swap that exhaust around so its not all exiting facing directly down as you generate extra heat in the underplate and if left on constantly for days the burner will be running maybe 5deg over what it should and using more fuel and the bend you cant have it so water and unburnt diesel stores in it or it will have start-up issues. Route the exhaust slightly downwards all the way from the unit so have it come out and down slightly then where it goes outside put your 90 bend sideways and facing downwards then have the exhaust aimed out at a slight dangle downwards so no water or unburnt fuel can store up anywhere on the pipe. Secondly you should fit the heat hose to the front as it brings the heat away from the burner nozzle and in turn saves fuel as its then burning at a perfect 163-167deg and 14:1 on the fuel. The best modification you can make for performance is to fit rigid type fuel lines like you get on the boats. They do cheap copy kits that the fuel line is nearly rigid and fits into rubber fuel hose and is clamped together. These ensure the fueling is absolutely accurate as there is no flex or expanding action happening when the pump is on its press stroke, the burner itself will be quieter and the fuel pump will last a lot longer with rigid type fuel hose🙏 What never to do > fit filters over the intake. Put too many bends in the exhaust or burner intake. Extend the wiring without doing the maths relating to wire resistance and if possible always use it on a 12v or 24v DC as mains power can sometimes have power cuts or large spikes that flip breakers... if that happens your heater is toast as it shuts down hard with no shut down sequence, this burns the internal pcb and internal wiring. The genuine ones can take about 5-6 hard shut downs before you need to replace certain parts of the electrics. Also do some homework at what height and angle the pump likes to be at as these all in ones are known for bad fuel lines and pumps facing the wrong direction. To quieten the pump down you can get the pink rubber cover thing for it and mount it so it's not touching anything. Never buy the garbage large thin tanks they all leak and the connector is a nightmare to snug up properly. If using a 5 gallon drum be sure to fit the blue lid on your current tank to it as it needs to breathe.
Good. I saw an off-grid video capture some exhaust heat. He did it by having the exhaust run diagonally down through an oil drum filled with oil, before exiting through the wall. So he created a long lasting oil radiator for nighttime when the heater is switched off the oil drum still retains heat through the night, also he had are reflector on the wall behind the drum to push heat out into the room. You must have the exhaust going downwards always as it cools because liquid could condense and clog if you run an exhaust uphill. A good downhill run and keep the pipe clean.
@@user-pf5xq3lq8i yeah mate the exhaust angle and pump angle affect the proper ones never mind these cheap copies. People dont realise how well these can run and how efficient they can be untill the really dial them in. Its the controllers ability to adapt to its targets like a car ECU that allows even badly fitted ones to run decent enough for a while but the difference in fuel savings and reliability (especially start-ups) from a well plumbed in one from one that's just been kicked into the corner and fuel thrown in it... is night and day. Honestly the 5kw versions that are sold as the 8kw cheapo model you can get the burner running at like 160deg even down low around the 2Hz mark (5kw usually go to 5.5Hz on the pump) with basic fuel line upgrade to rigid and some tweaking in the hidden menu to get the AFR perfect. Straight out of the box if you have a well made one youl be lucky if the burner is at 125deg at lower settings like 2.5Hz so dialling these things in can save you ridiculous amounts of fuel costs. The upper boundary of what any given 5kw unit will do is when the burner can run around 160-167deg as low as 2.6Hz on the pump with an ambient between 20 and 30deg.. and not need plugs every year because you leaned it out too far. That's the absolute sweet spot for any machine.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 see the Doblo van being smaller you don't need the 5kw (sold as a 8kw cheapo version) For instance a large Scania V8 T-cab only has a genuine 2kw and it can turn the cab into an oven if you leave them flat out on highest setting for more than about 15-20mins down to even -15deg outside temp. Truly the truck ones are all overkill they will even dry your eyes and throat out if you leave them on full power for anymore than a half hour. Based on that the 5kw is overkill for your application plus if you decided on the 5kw to run on low settings you'd still need to run it flat out every now and again to clear it through and on the shut down sequence when the fan goes flat out and it activates the heater plug for the final few pumps its going to near blow your windows out as the 5kw turn into a leaf blower on shutdown sequence. < These are my reasons for why you should go 2kw. Whatever you choose the wiring up side I would tap into and wire from a constant 12v circuit so it never hard shuts down by accident (and melts the guts out) if for instance you had it wired to ignition circuits when you turned the key off you would hard shutdown the unit. Wire it direct to a constant 12v but also add a switch so you can cut the power to the unit so it isn't draining your battery with the LCD controller unit being live all the time. See the switch/ circuit breaker you put in get a decent one and wire the maintenance charger wires on the connectors that are on the wire coming from your constant 12v circuit to your master switch/breaker. This ensures the maintenance charger isn't on the wrong circuit and supplying a charge to the unit itself when the switch is off. You need the maintenance charger to be charging on the live battery side of the circuit and not after the switch. You'd be suprised how many people make that mistake and wonder why their C-Tek or Optimate goes ape on them. The fueling I would get a proper sender unit or make as close to the genuine one as you can or simply just use the 5ltr one you get in the 5kw all in one units or a Jerry can with a diaphragm in the cap or a breather. The noise in cars/vans/trucks/boats can be annoying AF with the pump ticking if you have either hard mounted the pump or it's touching anything. If you are going for an all in one then your going to be stripping it to fit it so on the fitment I'd get the pink rubber pump thing that everyone buys to quieten them down and I'd mount that with rubber bungs and make sure to keep the fuel lines near the pump away from the body of the vehicle as they too will transfer the ticking noise. See the exhaust you need to pay attention to which silencer you buy as there is generally 2 types of cheapo ones, one is good one is rubbish, the good ones have welds around them not just folded and tacked, make sure on fitment of silencer the drain hole faces downward as this is another common mistake. Heat wise as long as the exhaust isn't too close to anything fluffy fabric or anywhere junk gathers up and you're good to go. Aim the pipe back into the direction of airflow to prevent blowback when you are driving, you don't want it blowing the burner out via the exhaust. The hottest part of the entire unit will be the first bend you put on the exhaust underneath it. Personally if I wasn't running it all the time I'd just do it off the 5ltr tank for the all in one or an outboard motor Jerry can you know the ones that already have the fuel line feed and a breather on the cap. They work amazing for these heaters I put them in a lot of the fitments I do on boats.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 if you need proper detailed fitment ideas mate it's no problem. The comment I left above is just my first thoughts on the matter but even when I talk about the maintenance charger I'm thinking you're using mains at a campsite or a genny to charge the battery while the van is in situ. If you're not needing it to be a campervan and not running the heater for 24hr+ with the engine off then you're fine as the 2kw barely use any battery power after the initial start up. If you are keeping the single battery setup in the Doblo then you need it to be able to start the car at all times, the heater controller itself is capable of doing a decent job of that so you would go into the hidden menu and set the "low voltage shutdown" to 11.9v so the unit itself shuts down when it reaches 11.6v not the 10.5v or whatever the unit comes set at. You won't get your engine going if it drains the battery to 10.5v With car batteries they only work well as a 'starter motor' battery above 11.6v anything below this they lose their Cranking ability. Hope this helps further.
A big thanks to all that posted here. I got a lot of useful information. You know that's pretty rare now days.
Waste oil is burnt on larger scales but its not quite as simple as that. Waste oil first goes through multiple recycling steps to recover as much useable oil as possible. The remaining solids and sludges are then homogenised and sent off for burning. And they aren't just sent anywhere. They are sent to high temp incinerators which are designed to heat the waste products to a sufficiently high temperature normally in higher oxygen atmospheres to improve combustion. They also have various systems to capture impurities and particulates for treatment before being released into landfill. Burning waste oil in your heater is far more damaging for the environment compared to if it was sent to a proper waste carrier as the byproducts from burning go completely untreated.
Thanks, I was having a hard time not writing that myself. It's intriguing how easily someone will believe BS if it justifies a practice where they benefit but everyone else suffers. There is probably some sort of psychological bias that describes this kind of thinking.
I am an old Volkswagen mechanic who in the '70s worked on many Eberspacher gasoline heaters factory installed into all Volkswagen Type 4 vehicles. They were in every Type 4 and the early 73 Thing vehicles. This design looks a great deal like what they made with a pulse fuel pump that was timed to the ventilating speed. Their units had both a spark and glow plug for intitial ignition. They ran on gasoline, not diesel. Your high power consumption on startup is from the glow plug.
I had a gasoline heater in my 1967 VW micro bus.(van) smelled like hell.
In America, we had US made Southwind heaters, which I also installed in new VW vans in 1969. They also were a little more dangerous due to gasoline leakage fires@@c50ge
I'm in the States & use a diesel heater to heat my workshop. I found that it runs on diesel, kerosene, and Type A Jet fuel but I haven't tried biofuel yet. Kerosene is expensive here and diesel is $4.89 a gallon so I go to a nearby small airfield and buy 10 gallons of Type A Jet fuel for only $3.80 a gallon. The only hitch is that the nozzle of an aircraft self-serve pump won't fit into a standard fuel jug opening so I had to buy two 5 gallon wide-mouth fuel jugs which have a large enough opening. A company named U-Jug makes them. In short, burning Type A in these heaters is a lot less expensive than using diesel fuel or kerosene. I haven't bothered to measure it but I think I get a longer burn on a gallon of Type A than I do on diesel fuel.
Thank you. That's great information. Kerosene was much cheaper here if you buy in bulk. 1000ltr used to be £400 not long ago but it shot up to £1200. Cheers J
Spend hundreds of dollars to save a few dollars. 😂
@@kenttegneskog Pffft, what a silly & uninformed supposition. I bought my cheap Chinese diesel heater for only $125 (USD). I previously heated my shop with a propane heater & electric heat. The diesel heater was not only much less costly to purchase but is much cheaper & efficient to operate. My fuel/heating cost for a winter season is about $40. A wood stove might be less costly but requires a lot of time & labor to process wood, maintain it, and dedicate space to properly store the wood. Which method do you use & what did it cost?
@@kst357 i meant if u only spending 40 pity dollar on the winter, but probably spending same in gas to get to the airfield and back, AND it’s illegal. Just to cut the cost from 55dollar to 40dollar
You said it self u only heat cost is 40dollar thats 11 gallon jet fuel
Great vid. Here's a tip; If you made a longer exhaust pipe and had most of this pipe on the inside of your workshop before exiting, you'd get even more heat inside.
I used a black steel pipe for the exhaust and installed a fireplace fan on top to pull even more heat from the exhaust. I can heat my sun room in the winter in subzero temperatures at the lowest setting. a gallon of diesel lasts about 2 days.
I’ve seen people making stainless steel pipe coils for hot tub heating. One of those used inline with the exhaust would work to use that residual heat.
@@kevb8983 you;d want to make sure they were all sealed up tight, otherwise you'd be leaking CO2 and CO into the shop.
I'm wondering if they don't make heat exchangers for the exhaust To heat the intake air with tye exhaust
@@neok1996 you could, but really it would foule up poretty quickly and need to be cleaned regularly.
I know he is a real maintenance guy because he immediately makes a special tool.
The camper and caravan version I used and have installed in numerous vans is a Thermomate 12v 5kw Diesel Air Heater and it can get boiling very quickly in an average household room space. It is also a smaller unit for tighter spaces.
Fitted one to my house ! There was an 8" extractor fan in the kitchen I could temporarily remove to fit two 4" pipes through to the inside of the house, the heater itself is mounted on the outside which is under cover from a canopy we have at the back. Have it on setting number 4 but sometimes as low as 2 with the fan speed increased. Powered using a 12v car battery topped up regularly with a small 3 stage charger. It will run on battery for around 7-10 hours but it does use a fair few amps when the glow plug is lit on startup, after that it doesn't pull much at all... Downstairs gets toasty in no time but takes about an hour or so before you can feel the heat upstairs. Came with 10ltr tank and having to use normal diesel but I do get about a week out of it for an average of 5-6 hours a night.... Usually pay £15-£18 to refill every week depending how much is left in the tank. I will do a video if anyone interested....
👍 fight back against big government, big oil and big tax man. Try running on heating oil + a little bit of veg or motor oil (10% mix roughly) should be way cheaper as you can get heating oil for about 90ppl. This is how I know some folks run old diesel motors mix the oil to lubricate the kero but maybe the machines don’t even need the lubricant? Idk how they work
@@ElliHarper An oil boiler basically works the same way, but bigger. Normally they have electrodes with an arc as ignition, but pump wise I doubt there is any difference, so you would think kerosene should be fine. Need a guinea pig 😅
Im in on the vid mate ..
I would be interested in the video. Thanks.
@@ElliHarper wrong the pump is a spring /electromagnet type cannot remember the name . i use one for heating and if using kerosine i add about 50ml of 2stroke oil per tank and that stops pump seizing up. p
I know the exhaust goes outside but I think it would be extremely wise to have a carbon monoxide alarm anywhere you’re using one of these, in case of exhaust leaks
@@zeusdagmire6185 a radon detector?? they arent actually a thing. to detect radon requires the placing of 2 alpha particle sensitive plastic discs in a building for 3 months which then has to be sent away to be analysed.
well that was an interesting dive into snakeoil devices. talk about junk. they are geiger counters masquerading as 'radon detectors' if its detecting alpha particles its detecting all ionising radiation. thats why tests kits arent a geiger counter. not to mention that they dont take other sources of radiation into account.
@@joylessdave what are you saying ? a carbon monoxide alarm wont work if it detects the exhaust from the heater ? that you need a radon detector ? naaaaa
@@joylessdave Radon gas is the result of radioactive decay of Radon, most usually found in granite. Radon detectors are used in houses that have granite as their foundation bedrock. Carbon monoxide detectors activate to excess parts per million quantities of the gas produced by the combustion of fossil fuels. 70ppm can lead to headaches. 150-200ppm can cause death. Both gases are dangerous in their own way, but are not the same.
It’s not if, it’s when
if you want to spend even less on heat there are a couple things you can do. 1 you can scavenge more heat from the exhaust before dumping it outside the wall. and 2 you can plumb the intake so it takes air from outside, because as it is since it's intaking air from inside and then exhausting it outside it must necessarily be sucking cold outside air into the workshop through what little gaps there are in the walls.
it's true but a workshop is so drafty typically the difference is....negligible unless your space is very air tight. Intake should be outside of course when possible.
cold air burns more efficiently because it has more oxygen.
the exhaust pipe is hot. Really hot. It can go lower down the wall before venting outside. Also, slanting the pipe at an angle will help the ambient air capture more of its heat.
True. But make sure the exhaust fumes aren't sucked back up the air inlet
A coaxial pipe would do the job! The exhaust pre heats the intake to avoid running freezing air in the combustion chamber. And only one hole going outside.
The intake air filter is to keep bugs from entering and plugging a small hole within the burn chamber. It will not run if bugs get in there. Also a good idea to change the fuel line to the small, white hard line like Espar uses.
I lived in Alaska few years ago these little “Japanese stoves” we called them, were used everywhere and in everything cabins, boats, work shops, man caves… toyo stoves… even houses. great channel!
Can confirm, Toyo stoves are fantastic.
about the earky to mid 80s kerosene heaters from japan toyo was 1 brand were popular to heat or supplement heat but k1 kerosene was not too expensive. but today i have only seen buying by gallon or 5 gallon cans at rediculious prices. bear in mindim not in the cold part og the states dont know if stations sell by gallon to your own containers anymore my place stop selling before i moved in 95
18:20. 66. Followed by 33. Cool ...... hoodwankurrrr
@@jar407 Kerosene price today in Britain is £0.82 per litre. That works out to be £3.73 per Imperial gallon. You can do your own maths for the US since you use smaller gallons and dollars...! 😃
Yes I live in Japan and I thought it looked like this. Except they don't exhaust outside, so you need to open a window from time to time. In very cold areas where heat pumps struggle, they're used everywhere. In Tokyo a bit less as it's not that cold. But we still have trucks going around selling kerosene with a little music like an ice cream truck lol.
Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.
Correct, when you do the math it's a little over 5 and the 5 kw they sell is more like 3.5
@@JoshuaDeLisle. reporting for spam
Diesel is easy to work out - it contains 10kWh per litre If he used 350ml in one hour - the machine was producing, *in total*, 3.5kWatts Of which easily half was going out through the exhaust. Just goes to show you don't need much heat energy to warm up a given space - if it's reasonably well-insulated and not draughty. A modest paraffin (kerosene) heater would do instead. No noise. No electrics needed and 100% heat output from similarly energy-dense fuel. Kerosene presently priced at about half the quoted price of red diesel. Small greenhouse heaters can be had for about £30 each Depending on room size (do check this) but in the UK, if the thing is rated at 5kW or less (500ml consumption per hour) you don't need a flue but get a carbon monoxide alarm anyway. Same applies to any fuel, natural gas, butane or propane. And the joy of the greenhouse heater is instant set-up and portability
@@peterbetts8740 Are paraffin heaters safe to use in a resident setting? Those used to be popular in the old days before modern central heating didn't they. You hear horror stories about people dying from carbon monoxide poisoning from falling asleep with one of those running in the same room either due to them being defective or no proper ventilation for the fumes..like you said though it comes down to having proper ventilation and a good carbon monoxide alarm detector. I expect modern paraffin heaters with technology built in are a lot safer than the old ones of the 1950's-1970's era. I used to work for a company which designed and manufactured carbon monoxide detection, measurement and alarm devices for industrial use but I didn't have much involvement in that side of their business. We used to sell a lot of them to breweries around the world I remember though!
@@peterbetts8740 Agreed. Using mains gas in the UK is nearly 3 times cheaper per Kw/h than using red diesel. Also remember, it doesn't take much energy to heat up air. The problem is, the walls, the floor and all the furniture and items are cold and will slowly absorb heat energy, so as soon as you turn off the heater, the temperature will drop rapidly. The question is, how long does it take to heat up the room and all the items in it. I'm sure it's good for workshops, but not really practical for domestic homes.
Here in the US and this is the best video I have seen on the little diesel units.
I have had one of these since 2017. 6 years later still going strong no complaints whatsoever
I absolutely love my diesel heater. We spent a lot of time in the woods camping and it's opened up the winter season so we could be really comfortable without having to worry about propane or anything else
Love a guy who takes apart something and improves it before install. That's a real handy man.
One of the most incredible videos I’ve ever seen. You knock this puppy out of the park. I purchased one of these and was looking to gain more information. You definitely hit most everything needed. Excellent job my friend.
Thank you so much. cheers J
Have mine for a year and a half,love it have it in the shed. No problems.Had to change glow plug. 10 mins.
This is the first of your videos I’ve ever seen, and I stumbled across it completely randomly (the previous video I watched before this popped up, was about the Alaskan oil pipeline. Lol) Your level of interest in the product, your explanations, the information you provide, you pulling it apart to see what’s inside it, etc. has immediately earned you a sub. 👍🏻
Ditto!
Thank you so much. Hopefully lots more to come. Cheers J
Ditto! Love the creativity and, "...insert it into the female receiving end, right." quip😂
Same.
Same here.
If the exhaust pipe is 300 C, you could easily run it through a heat exchanger a recover some heat for hot water or pre heating water for a steam engine - or just have another air to air heater going so you're using the exhaust heat, put a small pc fan on it to get flow.
Yep, exactly what i was thinking. 12v 120 or 140mm computer fan mounted underneath blowing air onto the exhaust both adds even more heat into the room and will drop exhaust temps i'm betting a fair bit to make that safer as well
My thoughts EXACTLY!
I used to put a cover down the front of the radiator, in real,cold winters, it worked a treat for less cooling of the hot water circulation. Got de-mist faster too. But must be removed in warmer times
Lol I just forwarded this vid and said basically the same when I sent it on to my siblings!
Except I had it a lil more as a 'closed' system with a cooler coil ran out into the cold and coming back to a coil on the exhaust before steaming again
Dude, just stumbled upon you and you are awesome! I've been looking at these heaters for a couple of years now for my remote cabin and now I think I will pull the trigger. Way more efficient than the propane burners I run at the moment when my wood stove dies out at night. You have another subscriber here!
Thank you so much, do check out the latest video. cheers J
My first thought as you mentioned in your video was safety but noise too Joshua. So I would mount it externally on a wall and build a weather proof enclosure around it and pipe the heat in probably through a two ducts from one heat outlet.
I was very fortunate to get a portable diesel heater for £59 last year so I bought 4 of them , I use one in my garage, one in my shed workshop and the other 2 I have for spares just in case. I love them , both the workshop and garage have solar so I use AGM batterys to power them both.
Great review. I have a similar unit that's been in service for 4 years now with no issue. It definitely takes a bit of experience to set them up properly but it's been a fantastic unit so far.
Thank you Ryan. Cheers J
@@joshuadelislewhere we bay it
where do you have yours installed?
@@sonus289 On my boat. I'm on the west coast of Canada so things get a wee bit chilly in the winter months.
Brilliant. I've installed a few of these in Land Rovers and Overland vehicles. Definitely installing one for office feeding. The comments below are extremely useful as well. Thank you Joshua
Two things I would change to your exhaust port - open it back up and stuff the cavity full with non-combustible mineral batt insulation (Rockwool), then remount. Then install a drip cap over the top of the exhaust outlet to get the drip line away from the siding and opening and seal the gap with a thermal rated sealant. Very nice and clean install!
A simple power supply for these is a standard car battery coupled to a battery charger/optimiser, keeps the battery charged while in use and tops it up when not in use , simple reliable and effective , Good video
Plus, like Big duphus said above, these things don't like a "hard shutdown" which would happen if the AC power suddenly went out and the thing couldn't do it's cooldown cycle first. So your battery and charger idea is much better than just a 12V power supply.
Yes, you are right. I use a car battery and charger. Even if you are powering the heater from the mains, it is good to have a permanently connected car battery as a "safety buffer" in case the electricity goes out.
As a mechanic and a tool buff myself, I love how you have all those specialized tools for all these small fabrication jobs. Yeah those heaters are great.
yeah.. they seem to work great and have loads of untapped heat being wasted through the short exhaust pipe there just going straight outside...
@@mgntstr i see a second heat exchanger for the water line or a heat recovery system to preheat the intake air. #damnthatsefficient
These type heaters were used on Trojan Earth moving equipment 30 years ago . These units are more like a 3 kw unit as they were used to heat the cabs ( which are the size of the drivers seat of your car ) in the winter .
If you build a setup that will cool the exhaust gas to below 100C, you'll get another boost in efficiency, since you're burning hydrocarbons. Part of the exhaust will be steam. If you make that condense out, you get all the energy from turning water into steam back. Watch out: the other exhaust main component is CO2, which forms a minor acid with water. You'll need stainless steel or ceramic piping for the exhaust, otherwise it will corrode really quickly.
I run a simple heater like this all winter on my homestead in the middle of nowhere. They're golden. Easy to tune up when needed and they produce such good dry heat. Important when you live in a van. 🤠
What exact model have you been using please ? Any link ? Thank you
Thanks Josh for your review AND the poltical statement 👍 love it. Cheers
This is the first time I have seen one of your videos. Very good, very informative. I think we'll all be doing this soon if prices keep going up and up.
This type of heater, minus the big orange enclosure, is pretty much standard equipment on long haul trucks in the US. They're an absolute godsend; it's about 8°C outside right now and I'm toasty in my jeans and tee shirt, without having to idle the main engine. The little heater burns less than a gallon during a 10 hour break while idling the prime mover is often more than a gallon an hour!
And campervans for several decades. Odd seeing someone who's never come across such a thing.
How many cups is that? Is your truck a horse power?
@@kennethkeen1234 That'll be a US 3.something litre gallon, as opposed to a proper British 4.54 litre gallon :-)
@@kennethkeen1234 the truck is 450 hp from a 12.7 liter engine. A US gallon is 16 US cups which might as well be cubic femtoparsecs for as well as they translate to normal units.
They originally were truck and boat heaters. Webasto and Eberspacher usually on UK trucks.
I bought one of the heaters without the tins for my 1978 t2 vw for winter camping, I set the controller to 16c, it does act as a thermostat and idles back the unit to help regulate temperature, it stays within about a 4 degree window, I absolutely love this thing, mine uses about 3.8l of fuel per 10 hours of consistent use.
Love videos like this that give us all insight into a cheaper way to heat our workshops and homes!!!
when you took the side panel off @2:18 , that heater unit, is the one they have been selling for nearly 15 years. I have two. And without the large box that yours comes in, makes it very easy to install 'under-floor'. And you can locate the 10L fuel reservoir anywhere to your liking. Great information. Cheers for sharing.
Finally no nonsense channel very straight forward breath of fresh air No gimmicks cheers
Some of these diesel heaters come with this green, flexible fuel line, which is fine from the tank to the pump, but the pump puts out such a small pressurized pulse that the green line expands and minimizes the quality of the analyzation in the commotion chamber. The smaller diameter, hard plastic tubing allows pressure to be maintained and cleaner combustion result.
Also the Mecanyl tubing is self sealing in case of a melt or burn through.
What smaller inner diameter and what hard plastic? any air pressure or car fuel pipe?
The air intake hose is there to go outside of the building so that the air that you burn is not the heated air from inside causing a draft of cold air to come into the building to replace it. That burner uses a lot of air so in a small shop like yours, the cold air coming in will be quite noticeable. The heater I had came with a wall vent that the exhaust went out of the building though a metal tube that was surrounded by another tube. The exhaust went out the center tube and the air for the burner came into the building through outer tube preheating the combustion air and keeping the wall from getting heated by the exhaust.
I thought you could lengthen the exhaust pipe before it goes outside , that way you will use a lot of the 200 degree exhaust that is heating the pipe to warm the workshop.
i was thinking of the idea of an old car intercooler, send the exhaust through that with a fan blowing through, extract even more heat...
My uncle made a spiral of exhaust pipe above his woodstove. It is indeed a waste to just let al that hot air flow out
I do just this... A small fan blows across the hot exhaust.. remember to do a dozen minutes of as hot as you can go...!!2orksmbrilliant.
one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.
@@jamiebanyard1792 What an excellent idea using an intercooler .
I've been using the exact heater for over 4 years now and it has worked flawlessly. I do however use Clear diesel as I found that the diesel fuel with dye in it tends to Coke up the glow plug which will either require cleaning or replacement, which is no big deal. By the way yes it does require a special socket to remove the glow plug which is also readily available at very little cost. I have three of these particular heaters one of which I use in the house which is mounted on a small inexpensive Harbor Freight welding cart. The welding cart holds the battery, the heater and a solar charge controller connected to a small solar panel which makes this a totally self-contained unit. One of the other units I have I use for a small hunting cabin, and the third I use to heat my garage. I highly recommend these to everyone I speak with and they are quite popular as well with my friends that have ice fishing shanties. I don't use mine 24 hours a day or when sleeping but I do use it all day long and with a full tank of fuel it will easily Heat my 700 square foot cabin using only about one tank every 2 days when set on some of the lower settings, " on two or three ". they're absolutely amazing and I highly recommend them to anyone! Just be sure to properly install the exhaust, that's the most critical item, plus I found the hose clamps they come with to be of very poor quality and I highly recommend that you replace the exhaust pipe one for a high quality all stainless heavy duty Marine type hose clamp and you'll have no issues with exhaust smell or exhaust leakage.
Red diesel is road diesel with a dye added. They are absolutely identical products in every way.
One of the best, informative, review videos which I've seen. Precise, clear details, with good quality video. I like your delivery style. Interested in some of the other 'toys' which you have there too. Definitely going to subscribe.
thanks for reviewing this product - I'm thinking of getting one of these for my off-grid camper/cabin setup.
JOSHUA I HAVE NEVER SEEN SUCH AN EXCELLENT REVIEW, you saved me buying one, then pulling apart to check safety things, getting out all my meters (i dont have a thermal camera) just so thorough and then the cost, THANK YOU SO MUCH, so helpful and useful. we are in south eastern australia, victoria, we have snow on our mountain just up the road, its nearly christmas and we had 3 degrees c on our verandah this morning, we are freeeeeeeeeeeezing, so i think we will buy the vevor thanks again
Thank you so much. You're very kind. Cheers J
A cheap option for a mains 12V PSU is an old X-Box psu "brick". They output a solid 12V at a power of 135W (higher powers available for the older ones). You just need to remove the end connector & combine the individual wires into +ve and -ve groups and connect the 2 switch wires together so it's always on.
Or even an ATX PSU, you can get old used ones for like 5€, and they do hundreds of watts at 12V To turn it on outside of a computer you just have to short the green pin to any black (ground) pins.
@@LRTOTAL Exactly. ATX PSU is def the best option.
Instructions unclear. House is on fire. Very warm.
Any link to what would be needed to run this from a UK outlet ??
@@LRTOTAL what about a ham radio power supply, they convert ac to dc 13.8v, many like the Jetstream brand sold by R and L Electronics you can adjust the voltage.
Great line, "Forge for yourselves a life worth living" Love it!
To get the very most out of it you should send the exust gas around the room once in a metal or ideally copper pipe before it goes outside
I have one similar in my van that i live in when working away from home. Its plumbed straight into my fuel tank, which obviously makes it a bit more expensive to run but when its sub zero outside and its toasty in the van its worth it. As a side note, look up the water heaters you can add to these, absolutely brilliant
can you tell me more about the water heater? I cant find it online
Excellent Vevor heater demo video. Heartily recommend buying separate heater for safety reasons, not the All-in-one, because you can mount the heater sideways (glow plug up) and exhaust directly thru the wall. This eliminates the theoretical risk of CO (Carbon Monoxide) leak from the flex exhaust line, which in these type of kits is not necessarily the best, nor is the clamp fit perfect. Of course, CO can still leak around the orange glow plug silicone cover, but one less thing to worry about. Would love to see you engineer/demo one of the rare versions of this heater that heats both air AND water. Great for RV (or even house) water heater preheat. There are only a couple of them out there, Webasto clones or modified air heater exchangers.
15:35 If the exhaust is running (or at least peaking) at 240 C, that's a fair amount of heat going out the window. Maybe a secondary heat exchanger, which could be as simple as a cast iron radiator or just a long metal pipe, would reclaim that heat and increase the heat output while cutting fuel costs.
My thoughts exactly,
I think you'd have to be careful if extending the exhaust to consider back pressure increase.
Thx for this video Joshua, I have just bought my chinese diesel heater and installed it in its new home in my joiners wooden workshop, thx for the tips and tricks, I am using the ecoflow river 2 max for my power and I bought a cigarette light plug and lead all in one for connection to power.
For the internal part of the exhaust pipe you may craft a custom heatsink with a 12V-PC-fan to convert even the excess exhaust heat to additional energy. This may make the machine even more efficient. Or you may craft your own pipe and lay it through the room. Does create some custom work but it will make it even cheaper over long distance and more efficient and environmentally friendly. AtL. a bit.
hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house. and provide free electricity for life. there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.
Great video. I just bought one, the new version, for a van conversion. What I would love to see, is an adaptation of a larger fuel cell to the unit. This way, you’re not filling it up every day! Cheers
I love my diesel heater The only thing I did differently was put the air intake outside so efficiency went up with the air duct inside it caused a serious draft through my windows and door
Thanks! I was absolutely amazed with this tutorial!!. I myself being a welder/fabrication teacher. I am currently teaching my children how important or is to have imagination to be a welder.. I found your tutorial amazing and I could not help but support a fellow welder/fabricator.. I wish you nothing but success, wealth and happiness in the future, you are an inspiration to many who are able to see what your doing and the fact that you are potentially helping those who do not have the money to heat their homes in the winter. God Bless you!
Thank you so much Bobby for your support. Your very kind and it's much appreciated. I have lots more to bring soon. Including a welder review that is TIG, MIG, Stick, Flux core and plasma In one machine, so we'll see if it's any good and I'll do my best to demonstrate all the processes and my tips I've learned over the years. God you and your family also. All the very best. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle your very welcome I look forward to seeing more of your videos. I was very impressed with your ability to make things so easily and use your imagination and apply it to different configurations.. you are a very intelligent person who is capable of providing people with the right info to help the less fortunate.. thats something I find amazingly useful.. good luck on your future endeavors and I wish you all the best.. keep doing what you do best.. God bless
@@bobbydamig3231 your very Kind Bobby. I'll do my best to continue helping any way I can. God bless. Cheers J
Few points to add. 1. Use a car battery and a 5A plus charger. 2.Check the exhaust connection for dangerous CO leakage and CO monitor is a must. 3. Keep a longer section of the exhaust pipe inside can help efficiency and put the metal plate in less thermal stress
A correction to 1: do not charge a car battery inside. It emits hydrogen while charging. Use VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.
Use an old computer power supply. Easier to manage and doesn't produce dangerous gases.
1. Use a 240v to 12v inverter power supply instead of a car battery.
@Roads To Nowhere it does have enough amps, use an used server power supply from HP or dell, it produces 12.3-12.6 volts, 63-90 amps, search DIY power supply, you have to put a resistor on the pinout for it to turn on and solder your own power leads, if series connecting you must learn to properly float the ground with plastic washers/ bolts/ , they cost $20 each on a popular site you can buy it from. learn something new
#3 is mission critical for indoor, permanent heating...
Great job. I just purchased the Ecoflo ultra. Financed of course. Just wrapping up my first test on my fridge. 6 kwh ran it for 54 hours. Next test 2 refrigerators & upright freeze. I had the time wrong so I updated it to 54 hours.
Making the funnel was instant like and subscribe. You're the man.
Being a newly retired radio ham/code cutter/AWS wrangler/micro-ctrl--sbc fan/build anything nut, I have been looking at how to heat my shack/shed/w-shop without (expensive) electric heaters. So after viewing this excelent video I ordered a 8KW VEVOR Air Heater from the local AUS supplier (yes stoked i was able to buy one from an AUS supplier) I am super pleased with this beast. Awesome solution, works very well and cost 3 fifths of stuff all to run... Thanks Josh loved your work....
Thank you so much and well done 👍. Do check out the follow up video as run more tests and try a few modifications. Cheers J
You might consider running an inlet air duct from outside. Cold air being pulled into the room from outside through small air gaps due to the negative pressure created by the heater pumping its exhaust to outside can really hurt your heating efficiency. Just make sure your air inlet is far away from any exhaust pipes. Even better, would be to setup a heat exchanger where the intake air is pre-warmed by the heater's exhaust.
An external air intake for the combustion mixture may improve combustion too as the colder air is denser.
@@thebrowns5337 No. You are probably thinking about combustion engines where air density during compression matters, but for a simple 'cold in-hot out' system it is very simple: if the temperature difference you have to achieve becomes smaller with a heat exchanger, you use less fuel.
also it consumes oxygen in the room , so...
@@e.p.4767 also it consume oxygen in the room👍How do you say carbon monoxide poisoning, CO?
@@tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.
I bought a chain-fall hoist from Vevor as well as a beam clamp they sell. The two worked wonderfully to anchor the chain-fall to a beam in my garage and let me lift heavy loads in and out of a truck and hopefully will allow me to pull my project car's engine soon. I'll be looking at these diesel-fired heaters, as while the garage is insulated and wired for power, it's not set up for heating and something like this could work well to take the edge off during the winters.
Vevor is the Acme of China !
I too have a number of Vevor products and would have no problem recommending them, generally speaking cheap Chinese junk today has become cheap Chinese products, everyone will tell of a disaster but no one mentions the many happy customers. The lower prices also makes many tools available to the average person which would have been cost prohibitive, can only be good😊.
Great video friend, I use stainless steel wool for the intake, and never had a problem with debris. Thanks for sharing bro!!
Thanks for the vid. Im grabbing an old aluminum cylinder head a small elec blower and lil elec fuel pump, gonna try to make a diy like this
Great video mate. I've installed a few of these heaters on canal boats and my customers are very happy with the results.
Canal boats are the best
Will definitely subscribe for that steam turbine. That sounds really interesting. I always wondered how they keep the steam pressure from blowing back through the water intake and keep everything moving in the right direction. Look forward to it. :)
Hello and thanks to everyone for the details on setting this thing up! First run, on a 18 square meters un-isolated and with old windows and doors with some cracks room, raised the temp 16 to 25 degrees in 7 hours, used around 0,2 liters of diesel per hour. 6-4 degrees C outside overnight. So overall it's good. Not 8kW, but it's ok. Still got to figure out the other controls for the "black" version controller. Cheers to all! Edit: I wonder if i can extend the 3 wires to the lcd display a few meters longer... what do you think?
you probably could extend the lcd wires 1m. keep the wires away from potential sources of electrical interference. doesn't hurt to try
Use real units
the LCD CONSUMES NOT MUCH. Some meters should be no problem especially if you use e,g. 1,5mm² wires.
Quick update for the current and future users of these cheapo chinese burners. Mine got thirstier after a while (up to 0,3-0,5liters/hour). Okey, no probs. Then after a while the combustion chamber mesh clogged and I had to get another complete combustion chamber. And now after 2 or so months of intermittent running (main heating source is wood, so it ran overnight max 2-3 days a week) it suddenly stopped while running a decent 180-190 C temp. Atempted a restart, pump was clicking, it got to 40-ish degrees C, but suddenly stopped the starting process and gave the dreadful flame out E- 8 error. My controller is the black one but the later one, with no access to pump setting, just heating level 1 to 6. Never ran it for long on level 5; mostly set on 2 to 4(level 2 gave a 160-170 degrees C run, level 4 - 180-ish up to 198). My exhaust is slightly downwards, 70-80cm of 4mm thick around 1 inch of steel pipe. Fuel is just regular diesel from the fuel stations. I`ve had a couple of partial hard-shutoffs as i`m running it from mains. I mean partial because the first time power returned after 15to 30ish seconds, and the second time, almost the same blackout time as i ran and connected the battery inverter. I`m quite confused on what would have caused this, as while running it won`t need the glow plug, just the pump, and the pump could be heard and seen. Probably will have to tear it apart to see if I am the unluckiest man on earth or there is a logical explanation.... Best of luck to all! Victor.
I have same unit installed in my van....however I don't use internal tank.(disconnected tank fuel line).I installed a metal military style tank out side on my back van door..(.didn't want a fuel spill inside van) .ran 1/4in fuel line through and under van to pump ..which I also installed out side ,under my van ..heater works awsome ..
Thought this was a new product but as soon as you took the cover off I realised it’s the same Chinese diesel heater people have been using in their camper vans for years… just without the outer casing, and using a separate tank. They are pretty decent.
If you want to add more energy in and less out (by the exhaust), one guy installed an aluminum tubing from a used electric baseboard . Dissipation of that heat was done inside before exhausting out. The longer the tube the lower the heat loss outside. David McLuckie made the calculation from exhaust (around 800 watts), so it is better to keep that heat in, but make sure connections are tight (aka CO risk...)
I was just thinking this. So much heat was being lost and if you can somehow harness the Heat from the exhaust, it would be great… Maybe hot water heater with a coil??
If you make a radiator from aluminum tubing and run the exhaust thru it you get additional heating.
For something I wasn’t interested in at all, this video certainly made me feel like I need one! Good, honest review
These heaters are just brilliant. I have one for in the garage. It’s great!
Ecoflow is the bomb I love the diesel heaters to been using them for quite a few years now loving them
My last house I had installed a Rayburn stove in the kitchen. The Rayburn (and Aga) uses a system of wicks in a circular tray with metal perforated tubes up to the flue. It is gravity fed from the fuel tank and is basically like a big candle, but it heats the kitchen, provides cooking at above 150 degrees centigrade and heats the entire house from its back boiler to radiators. No problems with power cuts because it is gravity fed only needing a pump for radiator circulation. It did run on heating oil, but could have used any fuel that you could run a diesel engine on, which includes diluted waste cooking oil which has been left to stand or filtered. What you dilute it with is a secret. I also played with making "logs" for wood burning stoves by using wood shavings and waste cooking oil, compressed in a carton ( I used a cut down big milk carton) as a reusable mould and then wrapped the output in newspaper. Those logs burn cleanly and very controlled in a wood burning stove. No need to do anything with the waste cooking oil apart from mix it to a putty with wood shavings in a wheel barrow. There are plenty of sawmills will give you the wood shavings. This product uses only waste for free heating in your wood burner.
This is brilliant, will have to look into these for sure. In my situation too I do quite alot of miles for work so have quite a constant supply of old engine oil from my car and this would be a great way to get rid of that
My thoughts on the "filter", its meant to be outside so you don't create a draft and suck cold air into the room like you would if the intake is inside. The plastic mesh is just to stop spiders from going in the air intake and clogging it up with webs.
i also belive its a sound muffler of sorts
That is exactly what it is intended for, the air intake for the heater is suppose to be outside of the vehicle (or building) and the unit itself should be inside.
If flow restriction from ice/frost is a concern with outside air over a small surface area just grab an air intake from a junkyard car, keep a spare filter on hand for a quick fix if it ices over.
The intake can also be inside for faster heating by recirculating hot air that is already inside the room instead of sucking cold fresh air from the outside. Every modern car has the recirculating option.
@@moeman2790 I believe the air intake everyone is commenting on is only for the combustion portion of the heater. The shop air circulates around the outside of the heat exchanger. The fan (shown in the video) blows the shop air over the heat exchanger and out the duct connection. The combustion section is a closed system and doesn't mix with the shop air if the intake is routed outside.
An old timer's tip for the jagged fuel line hole you deburred: Cut a scrap or used length of fuel line to fit the perimeter of the hole. Lay it between two pieces of wood or metal & use a knife to split one side the full length of the fuel line. Slip the split fuel line over the rough edge of the hole. If the line is cut to length accurately, it will stay in place without adhesive. If needed use some contact adhesive to affix the re-purposed fuel line. Been using this technique for 50+ years without one failure. Works well in vibrating invironments, too. (Machinery, automotive, marine, etc) Hope this helps someone.
From another old-timer - I've been using that tequnique for about 50 years also. But I can't remember where I got the idea. I think it may have been when I saw pipe insulation with a pre-cut slit so you could slip it over pipe, rather than wrapping miles of bandage round the pipes.
@@cfc1907 We were using this way before split pipe insulation. I can remember when the only readily available pipe insul was strips of fiberglass insulation; made by the only company that made stuff like that... Weather King... Freeze King... can kinda remember the logo... had lots of orange on their plastic bags. They made those chinsy window insulation kits of whisper thin plastic sheeting & thin pĺastic strips w/ psa. I think I learned the split hose trick from my uncle/Godfather. He had me working in his auto repair at 12. He'd grown up in NJ. A 1st gen Italian-American, he started sweeping floors in a Ford dealership in Jersey City at 13. By age 15, he was a line mechanic for the brand new Model A's. I was nuts about cars. Been building models of real cars from Hot Rod & Car Craft mags. I'd do basic engine wiring, custom radiator hoses, made tube headers from telephone signal wire & the ink tubed from Bic pens & 'sheet metaled the interiors of the race cars w/ card stock painted silver. He figured it was time I worked on the real thing... LOL
In the UK we use the outside grey insulation from domestic wiring. Cut down the side and remove the inner wires and it leaves a U profile soft plastic that grips like a grommet
@@mattydare You must have better wire than we do in the states. Everything here, except very expensive high temp wire w/ silicone insulation, (a dream to work with), uses PVC. It's hard to cut, doesn't hold it's shape, nor have enough elasticity to use the way we're talking about. I hate the stuff; power cords on appliances & tools fight you while trying to coil them, & you haven't lived until you're making a solder connection & one of the stiff azz wires slips flinging hot solder & flux in your face. I'm thinking I may have to wear a full face shield like I use when riding my 9" side grinder. LOL GeoD
@@georgedennison3338 Sorry mate, I'm not an electrician but AFAIK its PVC heat moulded onto copper wire. They use chalk dust to prevent the different layers of insulation sticking to each other so there is always 2 layers of insulation between you and the angry pixies at 240v.
Luv this video and the comments thx guys
A few suggestions from an aged observer of alternative fuels. Mr Diesels engine was originally designed to run on Peanut oil, that particular point is not entirely relevant but keep it in mind, diesels do not need diesel to run on, regular diesel is just usually cheaper and easier that the legal alternatives. In the past there are plenty of people who have run engines/ cars on waste cooking oil, vegetable oil, waste oil. The best practice for running these engines and prolonging their life was to start and stop them on regular diesel, warm them to working temperature then switch to the alternative fuel. The heat generated from the diesel warm up was used to pre heat the alternative fuel and ensure that it could flow freely in the pipes. The shut down process switched back to regular diesel in order to flush the alternative fuel from the feed pipes and ensure clog free starting. This was mainly to ensure that certain waste cooking oils etc. were at sufficient temperature that they could flow freely and not clog pipes. This would all depend on which alternative fuel you were to elect to use. I have seen plenty of people use these heaters (in the basic unit configuration) to heat mobile homes, live in vans etc. many have had success, a few have had problems and some have changed to alternatives. It would appear to be that you pays you money and takes your chances, some people have come to the conclusion that the basic heater should be changed every year because it is cheap Chinese stuff, others go till it breaks then replace.
Very good information. Thank you. Cheers J
True, I use a mixture of kerosene (petroleum) and diesel. At first pure kerosene, which was much cheaper than diesel, but not anymore. Kerosene burns more cleaner and seems to deliver more heat, it also preempts forming curds in diesel when left in cold storage.
Truckers been using these for years for their cab heater when they sleep and it also had a block heater circulating your coolant to your engine. You could always run a couple radiators with fans across the house and put the radiator hoses through the wall so you could heat your living room Den and also your bedrooms separate with their doors closed. You have to check the different kinds available. Google up some truck shows and start visiting them see what is on the market these days. Every major city has one Salt Lake Anaheim Dallas. BTW the reason red diesel is red is they just put a dye in it to turn your fuel filters red and they can see it in the tank at a Port of Entry. If they see red dye then you get a big fine for tax evasion. Because that's Road tax. The red diesel does not get Road tax.
In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l
@@Harrington2323 it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.
Diesel#2 is regular diesel, Diesel#1 is cold weather diesel. Red Diesel is called dyed diesel or off-road diesel at the pump.
Never seen one before, in Australia there is so much wood and everyone is somewhat glad when it gets colder and frosty, I remember running around as a kids on frost in the morning in Canberra, horrible place.
I could imagine. Cheers J
I want to thank you for your review. We bought 2 last year and are planning on using them in our Bus Conversion. It's and old School bus, and those underseat heaters just didn't work properly. Plus we will be having a marine wood burner for a back up. I was most interested in your flow rate of fuel and am completely blown away. These will not cost us nearly as much as we previously thought to run. We will be putting in external tank feeds, as where we want to put the unit in a small space, and it would make it impractical to fill in a traditional way. Fortunately I have experience working with external pumps filling closed off tanks without mucking it up. Again thank you very much for busting your cherry on this review.
Thank you so much. I put in more information on the latest video. All the very best. Cheers J
Awesome. Heartbreaking about people freezing over Christmas in UK. I hope that y'all are able to keep warm this winter. I expect you should import and save these heaters while you can before they "become unavailable" in your country.
The way things are going these heaters will probably become illegal and force many people to submit to the large companies who want to monopolize the energy market. I'm using free waste vegetable oil from my local fish and chip shop. Coming soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I'm amazed that they give you the waste oil free of charge! I pay sixty cents a gallon for waste oil here in the U.S. and after filtering and treatment, I cut it with #2 heating oil to burn really clean. Anything to save on heat, it gets down to -20F where I am. Keep up the great work!
People freezing is heartbreaking any time anywhere.
@@genefogarty5395 thank you. In the UK the garages have to pay someone to take it away. Small independent garages will give me as much as I want. Probably not the corporate ones as they have a system to obey. Cheers J
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I used one in my shop north of Fairbanks, Alaska. Worked like a champ. Kept the shop warm even at -40f.
Fun fact: at -40 you don't have to say F because it's also -40C. It's the only temperature that's the same on both systems :)
Sorry but that was tongue in cheek, I've actually met 3 people who've been at temps. that low, one in BC and 2 in Antarctica.
I live in sunny VietNam, only living in the Central Highlands at 8,000 feet it gets cool. These heaters are very popular. I bought a similar device 5 years ago and since then slowly more and more neighbours have installed these units. Up north, along the Chinese border, the indigenous groups live in houses with a wood burning fireplaces with flues/chimneys in the middle of the one-room houses (the average house is about 8 metres square) and opening a door causes the smoke to back-Flow and fill the living spaces with smoky fumes. I appreciate your article as it shows quite clearly some smart up grades that are easy to make. These heaters make for healthy, heated living spaces. ONE THING - FIRE EXTINGUISHERS SHOULD BE AT HAND - JUST IN CASE.
My wife has a tiny salon shop with no heating just little electric heaters ive been looking at different things to use like storage heaters but i thought to myself i could fit one of these outside and vent the heat inside. Build a box or bench for it to sit in or underneath and see how it goes. My only problem is ive never actually heard one in person and hopefully there not too loud as there is other shops around. Great video by the way 👏 😊
Joshua, thank you so much for putting this video together! I HAVE SUSCRIBED and look forward to watching more of your very well made and informative videos. I immediately purchased one as we all know things are going to be very hard this winter. I live in Plymouth Massachusetts right next to Plymouth Rock and it gets very cold here in the winter. This is a great solution and I appreciate your modifications that you made to enhance the functionality of the unit while simultaneously showing us the insides of the product and ways of improving upon it. Take care and thank you from across the pond! -James
Thank you. Lots more information on this to come shortly. Cheers J
Funnel the exhaust pipe through an old radiator before going outside and wasting heat. Use air intake to heater through shroud on radiator to recapture the heat to preheat the intake air which will increase efficiency.
That is a great way to die. ❤ At temperatures below 250ºF creosote will condense on the surfaces of stove pipes or chimney flues
Creosote? From Diesel? Don't think so.@@brad3378
Good video. When I was living in my van I had solar power panels on the roof - two 100watt panels charging a 100AH battery. I ran a a 20 liter Alpicool fridge/cooler off the system without any problems. I was looking at these diesel heaters for my the next upgrade as I did have some cold nights in the van. I never pulled the trigger and bought one though because I eventually moved back to my home. I have 3 natural gas heat sources in my home - a millivolt wall unit, a millivolt fireplace, and a standard high efficiency furnace. The furnace requires electricity to operate whereas the millivolt units will run without house power. This way I don't have to worry about heat should the power go out - which it has many times where I live. Twice this resulted in broken and frozen pipes and thus the reason for the millivolt heat sources. If one is patient you can usually find the wall units of the fireplace units cheap on marketplace. New the fireplaces can be very costly, but used they can be had for a song it seems. I just bought a 20K BTU freestanding fireplace for $75 on Marketplace and it even included the double wall stove pipes. To buy all of this new would have run $3,000 USD.
One thing that I would do if I was setting up like a tiny home or something is you can use their intake to recirculate the air that way you're not trying to heat up cold air and then you could also plug it through the HVAC that way you have cabin air filteration.
good idea. cheers j
for the exhaust an insulator like aircrete could be used with another larger pipe. aircrete is portland cement and dawn soap or suave shampoo to make large air pockets in the cement.
An electric heat pump is the most efficient. Your price per kW for the diesel heater is assuming all the heat is used. The diesel heater dumps 1/2 the heat outside with the exhaust.
These heaters have been around for years by now. A man I know heats his RV with it (the unit inside, which is sold separately as a car heater) and it has been running for years without any trouble at all.
Got one of these. The tank above the burner is bloody dangerous in my opinion. I had a diesel leak from the hose going from the tank, there was diesel everywhere and a fog of white diesel smoke coming through the air ducts because the leaked diesel had been pulled in to the air inlet. There was also a lot of diesel around the exhaust, dripping on to it and smoking something fierce. I've since put the tank and the pump outside the casing, as well as added a filter. It's now much safer, and I can fill up the tank while the heater is running without worrying about spilling. It manages around 5KW I'd say, and it burns clean and is relatively quiet. With the modifications, I am now quite happy with it.
Someone else may have already mentioned this but the greenish fuel line is worth replacing due to quality issues and the ticking fuel pump is upgradable to an almost silent one. Also a vid where exhaust ran though a steam radiator / old emptied column oil heater before exit outside for heat recovery & significant efficiency gain.
Those are the type of heaters included in commercial truck APU kits for heating a sleeper cab in winter without running the truck. Just mount the burner unit under the bunk and run a fuel line out to oone of the saddle tanks. They work very well. I had one warm my sleeper compartment in -45f wind chill temps (-25 air temp)
Thats no joke, those Webasto's will cook you out of the truck even when it's -40F actual air temp.
They are awesome in a Semi , as long as your batteries hold out. In the early days before genpac's battery life was an issue. Technology has made big jumps since.