£0.03 per kWh heater modification - Top facts & lies on diesel heaters - waste veg oil burn success
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Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we modify the parking diesel heater to legally burn waste vegitable oil, we discus the facts and lies said about these heaters, fully test differnt fuels and settings as well as many other tips to get you to efficiently heat your space.
Additional notes:
Kerocene - 10.3kw per litre - £0.80 per litre (feb 2023)
Vegitable oil - 9.25kw per litre - must be filtered through to 10 microns
Mix ratio 33%-30% kerocene 66%-70% Vegitable oil - £0.24-26p per litre, less than £0.03 per KW
1688 settings menu - 1.2hz min, 4.0hz max (veg oil mix only, 5.5hz for kerocene), 1500rpm min, 5000rpm max, PF 6.
After 2m exhaust installation-
Exhuast output inside - 331 degrees celsious
Exhuast output outside - 92 degrees celsious
For latest news and insights visit our instagram page here:
/ delisledesign
What surprises me the most about this video is how many laws/regulations the UK government can implement to make citizens' lives harder.
It shouldn't be a surprise. The Gov. is full of users and abusers.
Rulers of people can do that
Dilute waste engine oil with 5% petrol and it becomes black diesel. This can be used in your heater.
Our corrupt leaders are run by the big power companies and big pharma, so making things difficult for Joe Citizen is no surprise.
Or how many laws and regulations protect me from you. ;-)
The water in your exhaust is probably not from a leak in the line, but from condensing water of the exhaust fumes. Burning hydrocarbons creates CO2 and H20. Cooling the exhaust in the bucket condenses the water vapours from the exhaust.
That is exactly what it is.
Yes I made it a point to have my exhaust downhill. Also the condensate is acidic and a reason why exhausts on your car rusts
I am using a household radiator with the output at the bottom to take the condensate out which can be surprising.
Very good point. Cheers J
Put a condensate trap and pipe from an oil boiler on it 👍
“They don’t teach you nothing practical “ very true statement, mainly in today’s system. My first year in high school 1964 (USA) I took a class, divided into 4 sections, drafting or mechanical drawing, electronic where we did projects using surplus analog phone switches, sheet metal fabrication, and metal working. To this day it was probably the most impactful class I ever took.
I just took things apart out of Curiosity, even if I ruined part of their construction. However, my father forgave me as the item or appliance was already malfunctioning and I could always blame the age or general deterioration through use that was the failure. But I got better and better at it and now regarded a genius. So, Rock’n’RoLL is ere to Stay.!
just a comment. They obviously were not successful teaching you about double negatives in you English classes. They don't (do not) nothing practical, should be they do not teach you anything practical... For the rest subject matter in class is only valuable to you if you are interested, otherwise as you say they were not practical. Others may have found them practical for their needs
@@johnwilson6732 thank god practical things are more important as language.
I also did metalwork, tech drawing, art and woodwork at high school in Australia in the 70s and became a carpenter. They also taught me to think for myself and use critical thinking, Not like the indoctrinated kids these days.
Please use the appropriate unit for electrical energy, it is kWh (1kWh = 1kW * 1h) "kilowatt-hour" . The kW is the unit for power (potential to do work over time) so that multiplied with time gives energy or work. Base unit for energy is joule (1joule = 1W * 1sec) which is 1/3600000 kWh, so it is a very small amount of energy 😊 Very interesting subject btw!
No need to add pedantry, as he's talking about both electrical energy, thermal energy and potential energy. Also, this isn't Physics class, but more of a Public Service Announcement to help you loosen the gov't grip around your wallet...
@@torbjrnjohansen-skavdal7802 Nope. If you explain something you should use the correct terms so we are all on the same page.
@@flexairz Yeah, it hurt my head every time he said kilowatt
Why they don't want us to have cheaper heating is immoral especially when people like me have not had any heating this winter, when British gas made record profits
It's nothing to do with climate control but is about control. It is about making things more uncomfortable/expensive. Its about creating fear and despair. They are evil and greedy.
I live in Michigan Here in the State it's the same thing and it all comes down to one word "control" and my heart goes out to you and yours that you make it through the winter
I nearly ranted about that. Had to hold back. Cheers J
@@chrisgibson2328 agreed making money
GREED CRISIS not a living crisis. Governments that should be protecting the public, but looking the other way, to suit their employers. The energy companies & Banks.
Route exhaust through through big old steel tank, then fill with sand, and close it, you created heat battery. After cycle end, lets say 10 hours of haeting air, heat battery will be hot and should give infrared heat out for next hours, therefore your garage could still be much warmer inside than outside in the early morning, without using a single drop of fuel extra.
Very good idea.
25mm gravel or greater through a perforated pipe perhaps but sand. Nope. You'll suffocate combustio, coking up the burn chamber and worse as the sand gets wet it will clog further.
@@SynKronos I don't think the exhaust pipe was ment to vent into the sand but coiled in the bucket of sand and vented back out like the bucket of water. Just heats the sand.
@@chrisabraham8793 Ah, that makes sense. But it would have to come out of the bottom of the bucket or water would fill the exhaust
@@SynKronos I suppose with a bit of fire clay at the bottom of the bucket surrounding the pipe would stop the sand falling out. I am quite surprised that the amount of heat generated by the exhaust hasn't evaporated the moisture right at the very end.
PS The viscosity of Diesel is 35 Redwood, Kerosene is 28, but the waste oil is likely to be c. 200 or so. If you added a tiny 5W 12v bulb to preheat the waste oil thereby lowering its viscosity, you most likely would eliminate the unburnt fuel (smoke) withiut having to add the Kerosene to your waste oil. Keep up the good work
Why not preheat it with exhaust heat?
@@bradleysrbrilliant
@@dannywilliams6643think about how it would start
@@simonmasters3295 Smokey to start, then it'd clean right up.
@@dougle03most guys that burn waste oil in their diesel trucks switch back to regular diesel before shutting the engine off. This makes cold starts much easier.
Just a suggestion if you used a metal tool box or old ammunition metal box, dip the exhaust pipe in then fill with kiln dried sand you will create a heat sand bank which will retain all the exhaust heat up to temperatures in excess over 1200 centigrade far higher than water.
Joshua: Units of energy are measured in kilowatt-hours, not kilowatts. A kilowatt is a measure of power.
Great Tenacity
We all know what he meant. Why is his comments full of people flexing for their own gratification? Not enough interest in our hobbies from family members?
Units of energy are measured in (Kilo)watts, not (Kilo)watt-hours. (Kilo)watt-hours is the sum of total (Kilo)watts, used in one hour. So Yosh (and almost the entire world) is right by mentioning capacity in Kilowatts.
@@arjanl.2168you are mixing up power and (the amount of) energy. Energy is measured in Joule or calories, Nm or kWh Lookup the Wikipedia page for units of energy and check for yourself.
@agentwhitedog1 Close.. but wrong... Kilowatts is the energy it uses/provides. Kilowatt hours is a method for calculating its power consumption over time that can be expressed as a cost
Make sure your pump is on a 30deg angle to get rid of air bubbles or you will kill it. The air will accumulate and the plunger will wear the inner wall.
I love it. In the early 2000s I was running my truck (a Chevy 6.5L turbo diesel) on waste vegetable oil. I realized I spent so much time devising more efficient ways to collect and burn it that I probably wasn’t saving much money.
I love the content on this channel!!!! I bought one of these heaters a few years ago and still haven't unboxed it. Believe it or not... I was a Captain in the U.S. Army back in the mid 2000's and I was burning used vegetable oil in my 2500 Dodge Diesel truck!! I would gather the used veg oil from the dining facilities on post and take it home and strain it through a window screen into a 30 gallon trash can. Then I had two pumps that would pull the oil from the bottom of the trash can at the petcock. The pumps would run the oil through two different size micron filters two get the particulate down to 5 micron. Then straight into the fuel tank on the truck. Before the oil leaving the trash can I had to include 10% gasoline, 1 qt of diesel clean, and about an once of a special additive that I bought from a dealer here on youtube. It worked pretty well but you had to leave 1/3 tank of diesel in the truck or you would clog up your fuel filters on the engine. Anyway, it worked until diesel prices dropped after Hurricane Katrina. What I found interesting was that during this time Diesel prices were near $5.00 a gallon but I would fill up on Kerosene at the pump, when I could find it, for about $1.67 a gallon. Kerosene is actually what is considered #1 diesel, a cleaner version of diesel.
Why did you put the C0 detector on the floor around 21mins then start talking about smells 😂
4:20 Just to note, energy is not charged per kW (kilowatt), but per kWh (kilowatt hour). It can get confusing when the wrong units are used. Thanks. Great video.
Agreed !! Too many people don't know or care to use correct basic engineering expressions. Sadly it puts anything else in their program in question of accuracy.
@@benjurqunov So if you happen to misspell a word in an email I'm to question the correctness of everything else you wrote? If you ever misspeak I'm to ignore everything else you said? (not to mention that a) it's not an 'engineering expression' and b) only electricity is charged per kilowatt hour and from all else in this video you can still make your own calculations).
@@pyramidsinegypt It's not about typos. It's about using the wrong units in a very confusing way which leads to misunderstandings. Energy and power are not the same thing. I agree that if someone is doing experiments and using the wrong units when talking about it we should question if that person knows what he/she is doing.
@@mcg6762 What was it specifically that he got wrong? If something consumes 1kW of electricity (runs at 4A @250V), and it is runs for an hour, doesn't it consume 1kWh of electricity?
@@fredflintstone1428He was saying and displaying kW instead of kWh in several places in the video.
I see someone purposely building one to fit into a fireplace for homes built prior to 1980’s . I bought one for my Macgregor M and use in the shop . I ended up running an exhaust pipe through the wall then up a down pipe from my gutter to get the exhaust up to roof height of my house so not to suck it back into the garage or annoy my neighbors. My point is these are amazingly cheap to run so trying to extract every btu seems like rubbing two pennies together. Clean burning equals efficiency so if you try to burn shit it will plug up and not burn clean or just fail completely.Your exhaust pipe is the most important bit for keeping it clean burning and Avoiding CARBON MONOXIDE! These heaters come with a small silencer. It is not air/exhaust tight at all and does act as a condensation trap which is good but never inside where you are breathing the same air. So if you buy one of these you must have a carbon monoxide detector. I love mine but also got a small electrical heater that burns 50 to 70 amps @ 12 volts with a tiny fan to maintain a nice temperature after heating with the diesel . Ok cheers and prayers for peace on earth !
As a kid growing up in the 50s I can remember my stepdad telling us about having an extra tank on their car filled with old motor oil/diesel mix, with a line wrapped around the exhaust to a valve on the fuel line. They'd start as normal and after running for a while, would switch over to the mix and turn off the ignition. Just before their destination turn ignition on and mix off, thus allowing them to shut down normally. He said his car was an old jalopy, so I'm assuming it was a model "A"!
you should run the exhaust tubing through a bucket of sand. the sand will heat up preventing exhaust condensation as well as trapping more heat for longer radiant heat exchange.
throw a bottle of water in that sand, take a pipe angled downward into a cold sand with another bottle to distill water at the same time
is that similar to a rocket mass heater design / idea?
Great job, I taught bio-diesel at the local college, and drove coast to coast across the United States, Labor Day weekend (5 Days) in 2002 in A 2002 VW Beetle with 600 Miles at the start making 3036 miles west to east astoria oregon to Ocean city MD and of course back. I did similar experimenting and refining. Using a SS mesh filter, then two diesel filters I would ultra filter the waste oil from a chip (potato - thin slice). The last filter in the chain was a water block because I would store it and the oil is hydroscopic so when it cools down ( like when the temperature in the room cools at night) it actually draws moisture out of the air (oregon Pacific Northwest) it would settle on the bottom. I still have the car more than 240,000 Miles still run biodiesel ( available at the pump called B15) I have two other Vw’s with diesel engines 2006, 2014 and a gmc 6.5 Lt Turbo diesel 4x4 truck. Your doing it nearly exactly the same and never had any problems and change my car/truck fuel filters per mfg schedule, I would open the filter car fuel filters never found anything big or a lot ( no rust no contaminates) I had a lot of people tell me all kinds of things but never had any issues. When freezing temps expected just increased the diesel ratio to 50/50 then when it warmed back I would go. I maintain all the vehicles still on original glow plugs and injectors and high pressure pumps. But its likely how I drive, i am on the original clutch and the brake pads on the front were changed just because they were 18 years old, there was still more than half the available wear left. Enjoy the adventure. Mike
You could always use your exhaust to heat a sand battery. Thank you for your excellent videos.
Dont forget one of main reasons its more efficient is it's heating the air directly- electricity produced by a power station is very inefficient, sometimes as much as 50% along with distribution losses etc. Its one of my biggest bugbears with electric cars - great idea but in practise doesn't meet the claims made about CO2 reduction if fossil fuels are used to generate electricity compared to an internal combustion engine
Just a comment on units. The scientific unit of energy is the Joule (J). Power is the rate at which energy is produced or provided, that is Joules per second; 1 Joule per second we call a Watt (W). A kilowatt (kW) is 1000 Watts. Note Watts and kilowatts are units of power, not energy. Power x Time = Energy. So the commonly used unit of energy (apart from the Joule) is the kilowatt hour (kWh). Electrical energy is sold in kilowatt hours, not kilowatts!
I had the same problem running mine on vegetable oil - I was using fresh sunflower oil rather than waste oil, and the exhaust was spitting out unburned fuel and a lot of smoke. It also stopped working after a few days, since there was so much soot deposits in the exhaust pipe that it partially blocked up. I solved the problem by mixing the vegetable oil about 50:50 with white spirit (I had a cheap supply of that), which thins it out nicely. When it comes to filtering your waste vegetable oil, I would recommend doing it in stages: Pass it through a wire mesh first (an old kitchen sieve would do the trick), which would take out any large-ish chunks of old batter or chip fragments. Then through a finer mesh, such as "OOO" grade steel wool. Finally through a paper or fabric filter, either coffee filters or a couple of layers of old tea towel. The first two stages should be fairly quick, and the bits they take out should mean the final stage doesn't clog up so much, so that should be quicker too. Another filtering tip: If you are going to mix your waste vegetable oil with some kerosene or diesel (or white spirit) anyway, you might as well mix this in before filtering it. This does mean a greater volume going through the filter of course, but the lower viscosity should speed up the filtering, so on balance it could well be faster overall.
Great advice cheers
Great advice . For filtering i used a fine sieve . No idea what its original intention was to be but it did the job for me without issue . I then would simply double up kitchen roll in a funnel and have a tap on the 25 litre tub filled with oil to regulate flow . Top tub drips into the funnel which has another tub bellow it to play catch ..... get it to drip and ignore for a day or 2 . I will fess i never though of thinning it out with paraffin diesel or white spirit .... ill remember that for next time .
Use rape seed oil instead as it can be added to the fuel of pre common rail diesel engines upto 40% with no issues.
@@steverpcbThat might be ok for a diesel engine because they inject the fuel into pre-heated compressed air, burning the metered spray of fuel all in one go. Diesel air heaters burn fuel with a continuous flame in air at ambient pressure, so are quite different. Both the viscosity and boiling point have to be low enough for the fuel spray to adequately vaporise, in order for complete combustion. Otherwise you get a lot of soot production which blocks up the exhaust outlet, and in the worst case you get ignition failure and unburned fuel spraying out of the exhaust. Also, the issue with diesel cars and vegetable oils isn't so much the engine itself - the first diesel engines to be designed actually burned peanut oil, and were only later on used with petroleum oils. The vegetable oil causes problems for the rubber gaskets in the fuel system, causing them to swell or even disintegrate. If you go through the fuel lines and injectors, replacing any rubber gaskets with viton (perfluoroelastomer) gaskets, it should be able to burn neat vegetable oil of any type without any problems at all.
@@lloydevans2900 Sunflower oil is known to coke up diesel engines badly as do many other oils. Another issue with veg oils is that some set solid and need warming to be able to pump them.
Pay attention to the exhaust pipe outlet and install the 'H' design vent cap that creates near zero back draft pressure as wind can create exhaust back pressure into the burner. The outside wind pressure can easily defeat the pressurized exhaust
Here's a thought - for particulate emission detection, use a green laser pointer. Does a great job of illuminating otherwise invisible particles. Tried it during California wildfires a couple years ago - it was like having a mile-long lightsaber.
Good idea. Thank you. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle There are meters that measure the AQI. The combine all the particulates and also things like HCHO, TVOCs, etc. Burning anything is going to affect air quality. So probably need an air purifier unless you prefer using your lungs to filter the stuff produced by the combustion.
@@jd01665 I've got one. Video coming shortly. AQI reads excellent from 1m away. Cheers J
Idea: your waste heat exhaust could be modified by using a partially water filled rain gutter deep enough to encompass the exhaust tube but the tube needs to run downhill to allow any condensation accumulating a place to drain and run outside. In the US, that usually means 0.25 inches per foot drop. Next idea: use copper water pipe so you can braze or solder the fittings for a leak free path. The inside of the copper is smooth so accumulating dirty condensation is minimal and it leaves quickly. The biggest downside I see is keeping the water filled gutter from freezing if your climate gets that cool.
It would take expensive silver solder to be safe from being melted by the exhaust. If he just uses one large coil it would take very few solder joints.
That is the second most informative video I have ever seen on practical heating, both of them yours. Extremely well done, and presented. Thank you for all of the information 👍🏼
Thank you so much, I'm really glad it helps. Cheers J
YES, to EVERYTHING SAID, What? I am shouting? Damn Straight, I AM !!! ❤❤❤❤❤❤👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
@@tomad4051 you're very kind. Cheers J
brilliant. i firstly did this to my boat about 4 years ago. not so good in choppy sea but still worked good. when the gas price went up i did the same sort of set up as you. I have one blowing upstairs and one down and it actually keeps my old 200 year stone hose around 20c and so very cheap to run. i did get a free 55 gallon drum of paraffin that im using and expecting to last a few years. with two multi fuel burners two diesel heaters solar panels that iv set up myself running a 3kw grid tie inverter and my esta breeze i1500 turbine i pay not a lot to the utility ripoff gangsters. iv not worked out the cost but its not a lot
These heaters are so forgiving of their fuel. I have been running a 50:50 mix of waste veg oil and kerosene in mine for the last year. It starts and runs with no issues even in cold temperatures! Does away with the need for two tanks and the change over but as half of my fuel is free the running cost is halved! Yet to open the burner to decode it so I can’t comment on soot but the point is it’s running without any hiccups ☺️
I like the way you used the exhaust run inside to maximize efficiency. I will probably do the same but put a slight downward slope on the exhaust pipe to allow any condensate to run out. I may even duct a small 12V fan behind the pipe to get a bit of a forced air effect off the exhaust pipe. I plan to use a battery with solar to run the system regardless how cheap using a power supply appears to be, I like the idea of the system being 100% off grid in the event of a power failure. I have a lot to do in preparation for my 9M x 12M pole barn before this system would provide any real benefit. Insulation is my first step and I will probably require two for these units on opposing walls. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very informative.
Kilowatt is a measure of power, not energy. Energy is power times time, or KiloWatt Hour. KWH. If you run 100KW for 1 second you don't use much electricity. If you run 10KW for an hour you use 10KWH.
adding a couple of drops of acetone to each litre of used veg oil lowers the viscosity quite considerably - this will help with the filtering and the flow rate in the heater
Remember, as your heater sucks in air, your pulling in cold outside air all around your shop making those areas cold. You might consider ducting outside air to the heater's air in and avoid cooling the shop as your also trying to heat it. 😊
Don't take this the wrong way but you are not used to working with heat exchangers and condescending units. I work with 4400kw steam boilers, heat exchangers and lots and lots of condense. People assume that condense takes a lot of time to build up but they are wrong, it is a quick process. The water in the tube is not water, it is condense. You are also correct in saying it is very acidic, hence why you can only reuse it in steam systems to have it pumped back to a hotwell for reuse. For your application you need to cool it down and then put it down a drain (ps there is a water regulation about how hot water and condense can be if going down a drain) on the use of the bucket (good experiment idea) DO NOT let the exhaust pipe get hot and then introduce mains cold tap water (8c) as this will create a lot of thermal shock on the exhaust pipe and it will shatter so please be careful. You can but a cheap exchange plate of eBay for 50 quid, this will have 4 hole in it, so the top 2 holes will be for the exhaust gas in your case and the hot water outlet, the bottom two will be for a condense and the return line of the hot water return. Keep doing what you are doing and just trying stuff out and learning, just please be careful and if you wish to know more I can take pictures of units at work and some steam boilers with the hotwells so it can give you a better understanding of how the system works. Also if an exhaust line gets a build up of condense and becomes water logged your product and experiment will fail, this needs to be kept clear and free from condense at all times, it is a bit like blocking up an air filter. (I am an engineer for the NHS and have a BOAS licence to work on stream so if you want to learn some things on steam, heat exchangers or condense systems and how to use them feel free to hit me up)
A generic O2 sensor permanently installed in the exhaust gas flow may be useful. Not to control anything, just to view its mV output.
I love this, never studied engineering myself but was always very interested in it. Cool projects like these that will save you some money in the end and teach you a lot are great and i cant wait to try this myself. Thanks Joshua!
Thank you, this video has been very helpful. I saw your last video and was going to mention the point about companies that burn the waste oil, but you covered it in this one. It's been very informative.
Excellent video!! Spent many years experimenting with WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil) for fueling diesel engines. I see a lot of parallels with this. For a diesel engine we achieved clean and efficient combustion by preheating the input oil to about 160F (71C). At this temperature the WVO thins out to a viscosity very close to diesel and atomizes much better. We did this by using waste heat from the engine with a fluid-to-fluid heat exchanger - engine coolant one side and WVO input line on the other. We also used a startup and shut down phase on regular fuel just like you already are and would only switchover to WVO once the engine was warmed up with the 160F preheat temp reached. You don't have engine coolant to use for preheat in your case, but you do have the exhaust heat. We experimented with that and found it to be too harsh / hot to use directly in a heat exchanger with the oil - it would polymerize and plug up after a while. But since you plan to already make a hot water heater with the exhaust, you could very easily use your hot water output as an input to preheat your oil input to the burner! This video is re-sparking my interest and I may have to add some similar experiments to my channel!
So would it'd be possible to use a little water pump in a close circuit that runs around the exhaust and into the fuel tank to heat it a bit? It should be linked to a temp sensor that somehow shuts the line on and off depending on the temperature of the fuel and the water so it doesn't boil obviously.
@@uploadsnstuff8902 Yes I think that would work. I'd definitely include a high pressure relief value incase of steam buildup - just like the old boiler systems used. A pump may not even be necessary as it might be possible to thermo syphon a loop like a drip coffee machine.
The heated air (not the exhaust) would work great as it's a much lower temperature, just wrap a small copper tube coil and put it inside the ducting
I can't see the point of having a thin, solid skin hose on the input to the pump. It's necessary on the output to prevent loss of pressure due to the flexing of a conventional tube, but using solid wall hoses on the input along with a great big filter (most likely with air still in it) involves all those extra connections for no benefit as I can see. Use a bigger hose and save yourself some well deserved time and penny's 😅
You can use old car EGR cooler to recover heat from the exhaust gas. Coolant can be used to heatup the heater and it is good to make a cooper hose coil over exhaust pipe to warm up oil
Fantastic , love your clarity of thought , and humour
I own a restaurant and have been collecting oil, we filter the oil everyday, but on the day we change the oil it goes straight to the jug. But gravity does an amazing job of filtering. I just slow pour the jug and try to keep all the solids on the bottom. I have so much oil mine can sit for a month. One lesson I learned is, don't let those jugs sit in sun light, they deteriorate rapidly, and crack easily. No more than a month at most. I did have the state bother me at one point and I provided them studies that vegetable oil in less than 50% concentration actually helps the soil and is not a pollutant. However, they still made me keep my oil on concrete.
As most petroleum based fuels combust, a by-product is water vapor... And since you were cooling the exhaust with the water, the water vapor was condensing in the tube. And since the exit pipe was not at the lowest point, it started collecting in the pipe. as already mentioned...
I think you should not use paper element filters for diesel or kerosene unless specifically designed for it. Normally fine wire screens are used for diesel if you check at your auto parts dealer. The common cheap small paper element filters are for Petrol. Apparently the paper element eventually goes “soggy” in diesel and deteriorates. As it does so, it can pass along the fuel line and cause clogging/damage further on which can be difficult and expensive to fix in a Diesel engine.
Old cooking oil is being recycled into HVO and B100 biodiesel. It’s a huge business, and it might be a reason why it’s gonna be more and more difficult to get old oil for private persons.
1. Is the exhaust gas out the bottom expelled with ‘force’? If so so, could a ‘turbine’ type thing be added to generate electricity to partially recharge that battery you were using? 2. Could the room heat exhaust be used to generate electricity? 3. Could the heat from the bottom fuel exhaust be used to heat water for a water tank? Again, to generate electricity? The heat alone is good though, but if the energy in that heated air be used before being expelled outside, then it’s a huge win. Obviously you’re already stating that, so my apologies. I really like your channel/video. And i agree with you, the school system fails people. I’m afraid of doing electrical work, but mostly because it’s been SOOO long since I’ve done any. Maybe i should start small and test things, to gain confidence.
Hi Josh. I think you should put a right angle mounting bracket on your fuel change over valve so that the drain retainer plug on the bottom of the unit can be orientated correctly,,,,,,,, it does act as a sedimentor/separator and on lawn mowers or motor bikes when the cup at the bottom is removed you will find water or fine sediment in there especially if you are careless with your fuel quality ,DON'T ASK ME HOW i KNOW. as a qualified mechanic I have had lots of these off and rarely find no sediment or water, because of yours mounted on the side any sediment/water will go into one or the other of your fuel supply lines ( eg, diesel or kero. ) I appreciate you are more carefull. and I appreciate your channel keep up the good work. col.
How about a coaxial heat exchanger? Run the exhaust tube inside a larger metal tube, which is used as the air intake (or at least part of it). This would mean that the incoming air is preheated which should improve efficiency. It could also be used to bring fresh air in from outside which would give the building a slight positive pressure.
I think cold air provides a better mixture. When your engine is forced with hot air, it ends up burning more fuel to compensate for the lack of density. Cold air intakes provide an air-fuel mixture that is efficiently burned and used less fuel overall
Is this true ? I don´t thing hotter air improves efficiency I think it is the other way around.
Foundries like preheated intake air.
Hot air in motor vehicles decreases the efficiency, because hot air is less dense so there is less oxygen per given volume.@@shaggyrandy1264
@@LUPIPUPI1 I think he meant the internal air intake, not the combustion intake.
I'm here just for the updated version due to comments.. subscribed...because of that ❤
I have the same heater. It is standing outside the house. The heat comes in the house by means of a 70mm plastic pipe thru the wall. The pipe fits perfect inside the heat outlet. I use the most expensive diesel, BP Ultimate diesel at Euro2,02. I use this fuel because it doesn"t smell.(better for the neighbours).
Great stuff! Worth watching (&subscribing)... Saved my frying oil(for making oliebollen) and wanted it to mix it in with regular diesel and also the latter to be replaced by kerosene. When running your diesel car on veg oil, it was advised to just mix a little methanol in it as the viscosity is lower which could create starting problems. I would just run with 'blended' fuels. It looks we are going back to the old times, making our own fuel to stay independent! It was also the reason as why mr Diesel invented the diesel engine (only rich people could afford patrol cars). The whole reason why governments want to get us electric, to take our liberties. Anyway, great upload, looking forward to your next one!
Yep I totally agree. Im working to be independent from the government and corporations. Cheers J
Stay away from methanol; fantastic but horrible at the same time. A fella near me died a few years ago when his shed where he mixed his diesel car fuel exploded. Also, Methanol burns without a visible flame, it's really not pleasant and best avoided...
I appreciate your diligence in your testing of these units... We tried one of them with actual automotive waste oil. I don't recommend it. It almost ruined one of our units. We even tried cutting it with red diesel (which we can still use, over here)... I haven't tried waste cooking oil, it might be worth looking at. Caster oil is used, similar to kerosene, and might burn nicely, or could be cut with kerosene or diesel... I don't know the cost per liter, but it might save a little money. I have 4 of these units, 3 are currently working (the 4th is the one we tried with automotive waste oil)... I have one for when I'm out camping (a portable unit, similar to yours) and one installed in my shed. I had considered running a radiator-type system to trap more heat in the shed, but haven't actually built it yet. I was considering using copper tubing and a small fan. My heater runs off a battery and is supported by a 200w 24v solar panel. I plan to place a second solar panel to increase the amps for recharging my battery system (about 100ah SLA battery pack, made with used BackUPS batteries)... Thanks again for the video, I learned a few things!
Fascinating, I thoroughly enjoy your videos Josh. Thanks heaps buddy.
Really informative video. I bought an 8kw and installed it in my bungalow in Spain. However I decided to recycle the hot air output back into the air intake. The effects were impressive, as it halved the time it took to heat the bungalow. In addition, the heaters remote temp sensor reduced the heaters pump speed as the room got warmer. The heater was mounted outside.
Totally agree about the education thing....I have no issue tearing something down to its bare parts and putting it back together....just a bit inquisitive I think...I wanna know how it works and whats wrong with it...and can I fix it....always great videos Joshua....🙂
around 1980 (in the UK) people suddenly stopped this sort of thing. I blame the Government.
Thank you so much. I hope it gives a good enough perspective on the possibilities. Cheers J
Great video Mandy. Congratulations on passing your qualifications 😎
The heat exchanger with the bucket of water is a fabulous idea. Thanks for your videos. As my British friends used to say. Cheers Mate
I just want to say, this video is excellently well done! it’s understandable but takes into account all of the variables and delivered as if we’re solving a mystery. A+ content right here! Sincerely thank you for the video!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Ummmm, Josh, energy is measured in Joules (1 Watt second, although more frequently Kilojoules) or BTU (1055 joules), both of which can be converted by scaling them into kilowatt-hours. Kilowatts are a measure of power, not energy. So a heater that runs at a power output of 8 kilowatts will produce 8 kilowatt-hours of heat in 1 hour. 8 kilowatt-hours is 28800 kilojoules, or about 27300 BTU
Joshua, thank you for the time and efforts that you put into these wonderful videos!
Thank you so much for watching. Cheers J
Great job at saving all of us with ears and a brain a ton of time and money! Thank you immensely! (I've been working on a DIY version for a few years. This heater with YOUR modification is a true front of the front-runners). 5 thumbs up easy!👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle ACTUALLY, I did nothing to deserve any recognition, it's ALL on YOU! Well, your parents to a degree also I suppose. I have done all I could to support your caliber of intellect by becoming one of your many subscribers and giving you a thumbs up. And I'll be back many times, I can already see, while I did a quick scan through your channel. I can see you are my kind of reasoner!
You're very kind. Thank you. Cheers J
For protecting your diesel heater from power outages you could get a 12v battery for a battery backup or mobility scooter and just put it inline. You won't be able to run for a long time but will be easily able to shut it down.
He said that in the video.
I'd love to see how far this can be taken. You could use something like a Rasberry Pi to have a computer controlled startup and shutdown sequence that switches the fuel over. Add sensors and stuff to make it change settings to maximise efficiency. I don't know how to do any of that stuff so not sure how difficult it is.
It's a possibility. Cheers J
I have one of these for emergency use, but haven't had the need to use it yet, but watching videos from actual users, helps me when I need to set it up. Thanks - Great Job 👍
Okay here's one. When you increase the length of the exhaust beyond the maximum that stated by the manufacturer after their testing, he would have to increase your inner diameter size by 1 to go a certain distance further or to go through more fittings elbows whatever. For water flow there calculators on everything every type of fitting etc I'm sure there is four exhaust as well and I'm also sure bever doesn't say what the maximum is for that thing or have much of installation instructions. Thanks for giving me something good to look at!
Great video, I have repaired many of these heaters in trucks. Although very reliable, the main faults is the internal fan failing and if white smoke or difficulty in starting, that green gasket between the heat exchanger and fan hardens and cracks with age probably depending on the amount of start ups the heater experiences.
or, more nastily, hard shutdowns. Bearing failure did my last one.
do they just run of 12v? could you run them off a leisure battery or two or would it just zap them quick time?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 Yup they will run off 12V or 24V. There is a ~10A draw on startup for about a minute, which is mostly the glow plug heating up and the fan spinning at full. Same when it goes through it's shutdown routine. On the lowest setting it will use about 1A / hour. You can easily run one off a 110Ah battery, smaller batteries can struggle a bit with the startup and shutdown draw. A 110Ah lead acid leisure battery will give you a good 50 hours of running a diesel heater before it's flat, provided you don't keep turning it on and off again repeatedly. You could run that off a pretty modest solar setup. Source: I'm sat in my camper with my cheap chinese heater, it's -2 outside, I'm sitting here in my pyjamas feeling toasty :)
I like the heater I could run it off solar and black diesel and I really like the micro turbo. Why do we not have these in the US ? Or do we all ready without the turbo witch would be fuel oil heaters but there not as efficient
Where can I buy it
It's November, i need these kind of video again. It's a struggle when it's getting colder and colder...
Heat and air guy here, the water you poured out of exhaust is the acidic condensate you mentioned at the beginning of the vid
You can make a cheap and effective vacuum filtration system with a plastic 5 gallon bucket, a small vacuum pump, a hose and fitting for the bucket and funnel shaped screen that fits the top of the bucket. Made one for doing something similar to what you're doing with the used cooking oil.
Thank you. It also best to cut it first with kerosene if that's the intention as it makes it far less viscous and easier to pass through. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle a 10-20 degree temp increase does wonders as well, let alone heating it to 100-130C
Interesting video. Just for your information there are two types of heating oil on the market, Kerosene and 35 second gas oil, both meant for oil fired central heating. The 35 second gas oil is the same viscosity as diesel so will not affect the wear on the pump. I have fitted my exhaust to a small central heating radiator and will let you know the results over the next few months, I have also upgraded the air cleaner and exhaust silencer and have fitted it very similar to you set up.
I appreciate your time and effort. You definitely have put a lot of work into this!
Thanks. Great Video and testing. I burn Waste Veggie in my car and boat engines after letting it settle for a few weeks. Then I filter it through 5 micron bag filters. These bag filters are about 10 dollars in Canada. They are about 17 mm in diameter and 600 mm long. The oil goest through them pretty quickly. I just do it by gravity and a barrel of oil takes about an hour. I wash them with soap and hot water after every couple barrels. If the oil is particularly dirty from the restaurant or has a lot of bits in it, I put a a 400 mesh filter 'bag' inside the 5 micron filter bag and wash that as necessary. Works great, but you do have to let the oil settle for a few weeks first or it will plug up the filter bags pretty quickly - depending on how heavily used the oil is from the restaurant.
I'm 52 now and just recovered the new Mc. Giver! Thank you for your vids!
With the exhaust being so hot, i would loop it through a metal box first, then the metal box can have an exhaust fan, the inside of the box will get hot and you get more heat. Or run the exhaust through baseboard heating, the fins would give off heat before the hot air is exhausted to the outside. The idea is to send as little heat outside as possible, and keep as much as you can inside.
Thanks mate giving us such a great information and brief everything individually and properly I have seen a lot of videos. But no one has made one in such detail. Seeing this, I think that even a person who has not picked up a screwdriver can install a heater.
Thank you so much for the kind encouragement. Cheers J
I only just came across your channel. Superb. Your ideas and innovations are explained so lucidly. Well done. Keep it going.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
I have something similar but i make my exhaust with copper pipes for plumbering and i am going to build a small container for the water connected to a pump to see if i can make it work as a boiler for a small bathroom you sir gave me a nice idea will keep you notified of my success or failure of the structure also thanks for the tips on fuel i will definitely buy one of these
I wanted to put one of these in my old caravan, but I wanted one that's not in a carry case. I was thinking of plumbing the exhaust downhill through copper pipe, through from the top of a large radiator, then out from the bottom so that water can't build up inside. Really enjoyed this video.
The uncased versions are more common, and are intended for use in caravans and motorhomes. I put a 3kW one in a small bus conversion, it's an awesome piece of kit, 0C outside to 20C inside in about 15 minutes. Once it's up to temperature the fan slows right down and the pump becomes the noisiest thing.
Ideally, your exhaust would be roughly the same temperature as the air temperature in space you're heating. You could put a pipe around your exhaust and blow room air through the gap created in the direction against the flow of the exhaust. Counterflow heat exchangers can achieve the optimum of ambient temperature exhaust temperature.
I have done this, put a 5" pipe around the extended exhaust pipe. To toggle on when the pipe is hot and brings in 80 degree outside air in 30 degree outside temps to create a positive pressure in the room with makeup air. I also use free alternative fuel.
I was thinking the same thing. 12v fan blowing through ductwork in opposite direction from exhaust. You could also consider installing 2x90s and doubling the exhaust back on itself. Would have kept all of the holes in your wall closer together if that is a consideration to someone.
Is there a limit to the air intake temperature to the burner if not the air intake could suck air which is ducted over the exhaust pipe, no need to force it by a fan.
@@sirfenderjazzmaster 0
i go one better. 28mm copper pipe. cross drilled with bits of 3/16 soldered in. two reducers to wrap it in 50mm pipe. about a foot long. yes, i happily work in both units at the same time. thermosiphon heater, up to a hot water tank. solar panel thrown on the element for a bit more pizazz. some days i dont bother lighting up. old auto radiator inside the container.
1:48 Unless you misspoke: KW is power, KWh is energy, you can't say an ammount of diesel contains some kilowatts or not, it all depends on how fast you burn it. Oils and fats, diesel, gasoline, butter, codliver oil, olive oil etc. contains roughly one KWh per deciliter. You can get ten thousand watts from a deciliter of diesel if you burn it up in a tenth of an hour;-) Fun fact; doughnuts contains more energy than C4 plastic explosive, but good luck burning up a doughnut in a microsecond...
Thank you for referencing the cost of electricity to run this. Being thorough is greatly appreciated.
Because the bucket water was less then 100c, the water in the pipe likly was condensed water from water vapor in the exhaust. And the latent heat of condensation of water is about 2.260 kilojoules per gram (kJ/g) of water condensed. The majority of by products of hydrocarbon combustion are carbon oxidized to carbon dioxide and depending on the ammount of oxygen one can get minor amounts of carbon monoxide, and the other most common byproduct from the oxidation of hydrogen in a hydrocarbon is water. On cooling the exhaust gases, to below 100c causes water vapor to condenses and give up its latent heat of vaporization, which is quite a bit of heat, and so can very interesting to tap into for even greater efficiency. While most stoves use the chimney effect to pull in new air, and cooling the exhast to the point of condensing water out can pose a problem for getting enough air to fuel; using forced air to the burner gets around that problem. Taking into account water condensation dribbles down a pipe, the exhaust coil should continually spiral down and then exit through the bottom of the bucket and continue a downward slope as it is guided to and exits out of the building. Acidic water might form from small amounts NOx produced under combustion and form nitric acid with condensed water, as well as form some carbonic acid with disolved CO2. Side track: If your condensed water vapor dripples into a bucket of crushed egg shells, or clam shells, Then the calcium carbonate will react with any nitric acid and make a fertaliser, calcium nitrate that's water soulable. Although this would be pretty slow as ideally these units shouldn't produce much if any NOx. But You can then dump the water with calcium nitrate ions into your garden.
Nice video, great experiment! I love my car's Webasto. So nice to program a starting time and go sit in a warm and defrosted car in the morning when it's -20 outside, and it's so much better for the engine. It runs off of my petrol tank, my car is a CNG/Petrol hybrid, and I've wondered why it doesn't use CNG instead of petrol. I guess there is a reason for it.
Maybe run the exhaust through a bucket of sand. Sand wont evaporate or go nasty, and will hold the heat. It could also go above the boiling point of water. Maybe even use a trough of sand, then you could have the pipe just do one bend and loop back and have it with a gradual downhill gradient to have any condensing drip out the end.
Video coming up. Cheers J
I moved into a large cabin in the Wilds of Alaska with one-bedroom a water room and a huge room building. The central furnace can't keep it warm burning one gallon per hour. I put the largest toyostove in my bedroom, on and off hot and cold hot and cold, the igniter burned out. I repaired the igniter and bought the smallest Toyo heater, limited to a maximum of two gallons a day as little as 1 gallon a day running 24 hours. A nice stable temperature, I let the rest of the house get cold, circulating water from the water room to my bedroom or the toyostove is stealing heat from my bedroom to keep the water from freezing. With a 300-gallon water tank in the water room if the temperature drops below freezing I just empty the water out and refill it with warm water from the well. It was interesting to see it coming out of the tap thick from the cold. I want to stay warm and I don't want to spend any money as little as possible if so. Instead of using 1250 gal I only used 350 gal of past two seasons, when heating fuel hit $5 a gallon, the small machine paid for itself the first year, and I have a place to stay warm.
Burnt oil…. Just saw a vid from MartyT in New Zealand, using a centrifuge to separate oil from its contaminants to in theory turn knackered oil back into new usable oil. Interesting concept. His results were mildly positive but I think the e setup was a little cruder than what you’d need to produce good results. Seems like something you might be into so!
If I'm not mistaken the manual says to keep the exhaust pipe to a maximum of 1 meter length. I believe it says this because any longer and the exhaust becomes a restriction leading to rich burn mixtures. If I were using a long exhaust like in the video I think I would use a much larger diameter pipe eg have the stock exhaust for a short a distance as possible and then step up to say a 3inch pipe. Run that 3 inch pipe indoors for as long a distance as possible and then vent outside. In addition to afrs staying correct, the exhaust gas will be slowed down massively (without causing a restriction) giving the exhaust gases more time to lose their heat inside the room.
But they sell 2-meter aka 8’ exhaust tubes for them. I have one…
@@fishhuntadventure but the manual says 24mm diameter and "at most 1 meter" length for the exhaust. (At least in the Vevor manual I have)
@@StrikeEngine That is for the rippled tube, best to use straight as much as possible Some Webasto use 32mm pipe. Some converters use far more than 1 metre.Just do not use copper its toxic at exhaust temperature.
Really nicely produced video. Handy as I run a few of these, all on kerosene at the moment, but I'm going to start blending with veg oil. I've got plenty as the car is running on it! Definitely need to try and extract the exhaust heat in the workshop too.
This one definitely deserved my sub, Great show Joshua 👍
Thank you. Cheers J
Brilliant well made video with everything you need to know. As a heat source it's fantastic and cheap running in comparison to a kerosene heat blower for a workshop and you can still hear yourself when talking with this system. Very interesting topics we'll worth subscribing, cheers for all the information 👍
Thank you so much. I'm currently working on another video of diesel heater with subscriber suggestions and mods. Cheers J
For a heat exchanger run the exhaust through a pipe filled with sand. (1kg sand heated to 40c will take @ 5.5 hrs to drop down to 20c.)
i wonder does it mather what kind of sand, like with smaller particals ?
I've just bought one. Seems to be hungry on batteries. But I'm impressed.
It's 40w for the fan and controller, nearly 150w for a minute for the glow plug. If you have it ticking over on a low setting it will much less but I find a hours burst of high heat is enough for long while especially if you have good insulation. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleI'll figure things out. 24v might be the go
Thanks Joshua for taking the time to do this review, it was very helpful for my installation. Just a note to help anyone, I experience a rancid plastic like burning smell and I almost sent it back. Taking it apart it appears the manufacturer fitted a rubber anti-vibration pad where the exhaust comes out and this had charred. Doesn't look like its necessary in my application so I just removed it, problem sorted. I think ebay sell silicone replacements but they are quite expensive.
Well done. I've got a new video coming shortly. Cheers J
The long horizontal run of the exhaust is excellent! The draft blower generates sufficient mass flow to carry along any condensed water to the exit and spit it out the end, outside the building. For maximum efficiency, double or even triple it. You might need to install a larger diameter exhaust pipe to keep the static flow resistance from becoming too much. Another length or two of exhaust pipe, below the first one, doubles or triples your heat exchange area to harvest more heat out of the exhaust. Make sure the exhaust duct is always sloped downward - it doesn't need to be much - will keep the water that condenses out of the exhaust gases flowing toward the exit.
Thank you. Great ideas. New video on it coming soon. Cheers J
If he adds more pipe below the existing exhaust, then he will have to cut a new larger hole in the wall. Add the additional exhaust above and then redirect the first cm's coming out of the burner to the top of the new manifold, the exhaust is so hot there that no condensation is taking place at that point, only further down the manifold where it starts to cool down. And yes, all sloped downwards and where it starts getting hand hot, go to a smooth pipe for better air and moisture flow. Keep the muffler and exhaust outside also facing downwards
Run the exhaust extension as a straight piece of pipe, but running downhill to the exit through the wall, self draining condensate. Combine all the suggestions of putting a copper shroud around the exhaust, and have THAT pipe with its air inlet quite a bit lower than its outlet, thermal action does the rest. (Bob Packard)
can you perhaps show a picture or drawing of what you have explained? I am dutch and it would help a lot to understand what you mean to say.
@@bertjesklotepino Steam condensates inside exhaust to water when exhaust is suddenly cooled below 100c. (water, sand battery etc.) If you run the exhaust with proper downfall, the water inside the exhaust can simply drip out the end and not clog the exhaust.
I also agree with the school system. Rockefeller curriculum is next to worthless. We have to do better for future generations. Thanks
I worked servicing oil and gas burners. for over 40 years.I am still learning.I see from the comments all the engineering brains are coming to the surface 😅
I immediately bought the 8kw version on your recommendation and I am looking forward to using it. Keep up the supply of great content, sir!
Well done. Great investment in my opinion. All the very best. Cheers J
there is no 8kw. they say it is but its only a 5kw. kzhead.info/sun/Y9NsaLyDqYaInoE/bejne.html it is all explained in that vid link
No offence to the video creator but there are quite a few issues here. So be careful. This video is not accurate. And as another has stated the maximum output of an 8kw is around 5 in the real world, including exhaust recycling. I would also factor in for solar charging personally. Making vids currently on the subject. I am a retired experimental physicist/ engineer if that helps.
8kw ? or output 5kw.... unless quality. cheap 1s max 4\5 if lucky advis. gimick : see specification / build
Also, mount the pump vertical or 45° outlet up to prevent trapped air in pump cylinder, I believe it's to prevent excessive wear over time. Possibly messes with fuel delivery.
For over 20yrs I have used Jet A aircraft fuel to replace kerosene in my Radiant kerosene heaters--finer grade of kerosene and less than half the price, note that not all air service shops will sell Jet A to me and my fuel cans---Mikey, Belfair, Wa, USA
Thanks for the video! I’m going to fire off my first diesel heater soon! Got plenty of old recovered diesel and plan to make biodiesel.
The heat-pump is actually better than 100%. It depends a lot on ambient - but I'm guessing is temperate where you are so say 250%. But of course the initial price is much higher than this contraption (although it also works as air-con / however useful that is in your climate).
You should consider the drainage gradient of your exhaust since the exhaust is now coming from the bottom. might even want to consider a syphon to drain the condense water if you're increasing it's length or making it into a exchanger. Further a great informative vid!
Burning one gallon of gasoline creates CO2 and 1.5 gallons of water. Ask a chemistry teacher why.
Indeed. I heat my large workshop with a condensing exhaust gas boiler, and the exhaust wraps around the heat exhanger, that has a sealed drip tube off the bottom, where it feeds into a siphon/trap that delivers waste water where it can be disposed of. And it’s a significant amount. :)
I was going to get one of these for emergency home use. I was going to get an extension and run it up the chimney. Are you suggesting condensation would run back down the pipe making this impracticable?
You've got to get rid of that corrosive condensation. Straight up is a recipe for disaster, IMO.
Great video , mix the kero with wvo and shake for a few minutes then filter it thro 1 micron filter , filters a lot faster .