How to Properly Insulate a Basement Wall: NO MOISTURE!
Controlling moisture is the easiest way to eliminate mold in a basement. Here is a great system to do that!
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I LOVE when you "talk code" ... it helps me look up codes in my area and gives me a ruff idea of where it should be. Keep it up brother!
All your videos have been so helpful. My husband got impatient and couldn’t find a neighbor or assistant so he built one for the roll to sit on with a broom and two clamps! He was able to run the roll around all three sides continuously. You have made home renovations enjoyable!
great idea. I use a steel rod myself. Cheers!
Vapor barriers on the inside should be overlapped with the top edge of each layer covering the bottom edge of the one above it. If it is done as shone on this video and condensation builds up on the back side of the vapor barrier it will just simply run into the insulated wall cavity.
Great video, this one has helped me in the planning stages of my DIY basement build project. Great tips! Thank you! Much appreciated!
You are so smart! Whenever I need to know how to do things, not only the correct way, but also the BEST way, you are IT! Thank you, Jeff!
This is not the correct way.
@@Bob_Lob_Law what is the correct way
This is my step 1. I have to redo the insulation in my basement because ours is probably done on a monday or something because it looks like my kids did it. I might end up hiring a spray-foam company... but this is good!
Hey Jeff! You are AWESOME! Such a good teacher. Please keep the videos coming!
Getting ready to turn my garage into a music studio on the other side of the world. Can't imagine what would I do without these videos on this channel. Thanks so much!!!!!
I’m in Alabama, so I am insulating against heat and humidity as well as somewhat cold winters. Thanks again for great videos😃
I'm not an expert but I thought Typar allowed air flow in one direction, the black side through to the white side with the labels on it. moisture comes from the concrete walls, I think you would want this the other way around.
I'm renovating my first home and thanks to you I'm able to do it all with your tutorials. Joining your club for personal QnA 😎👌
I like the way that you explain everything, very clear to undertand....
BTW, your videos, all of them, are so educational. I learn so much from it.
Try building your wall on the floor,using a pressure treated bottom plate.With the wall on the floor staple the typar starting at the PT bottom plate working up in layers like a shingle(we used tar paper in the 1980's).When you stand the wall,the Typar goes to the foundation.Fasten to a chalked line on the above floor joists and shim bottom plate.If the wall is off the floor,fasten 2x4 blocks to bottom of wall near studs to anchor bottom of wall.
Love how simple you keep things in your videos. Thanks.
Thanks Jerry, It really is simple in most cases.
Thank you for making high quality full length videos.
Our pleasure Red Yumi, We try to get better all the time.
Hello, I just wanted to say that I really have learned a lot from your videos . I just bought a house a little more than a year ago in Alaska and figuring out how I should approach this fixer upper has been a challenge. Your channel has been really helpful. You have a great personality and it makes it not seem so overwhelming. Thank you for all your advice.
So true ! awesome man !
The music was really Pink Floyd-esque, love it!
Thanks for the video! We just built a new house & will be doing this part ourselves in our basement!
I'm so happy to see someone in Ontario performing this work. It's a nightmare trying to piece together various videos on the same subjects for the code-centric knowledge required. Please keep it up!
Thanks, Cheers to Ontario.
R12 is not enough anywhere in Canada. You need to get to minimum R20.
r12 is still sufficient if the house is made of 2x4 walls and the existing insulation is r12
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So true ! I live near Peterborough, Ontario and took advantage of the Eco Energy Retrofit Program in 2010/2011. This house was advertised as having a Finished Basement which was so cold in the winter, I couldn't use the Rec Room. The Eco Energy Program Person said that I was losing most of my heat from the headers in the Basement. The people I purchased the house from had finished the basement with panelling (1968 style) using just a few 1/4" straps. No insulation behind the panelling. When I took down the 12"x12" ceiling tiles, there was no insulation in the Headers either. What I was required to do per the "program" was to caulk around the interior of each header, then add R12. Then I needed to add Pink Foam Board and caulk around that with Acoustical Sealant which was a royal pain in the butt however I passed the finished blow test having reached the highest Energy Efficiency for a house of this age. So I received a sticker to attach to my electrical panel stating that my home is 78% Energy Efficient, and a nice Cheque back in about 6 weeks after the passing the final test. And I'm not one bit sorry for doing all that work (I did the upstairs of this bungalow too). I still have the Book that came with the program stating the "proper procedures" for insulating every place in my home, but like everything else, those "procedures" seem to change like the weather! Love your Channel. Thank you for posting your videos with so many helpful tips!!!
@@Christine-wi1dl Thanks for sharing.We're doing the same here in Laval, Qc. Having a similar program, I decided to start the process and we're going to start by the outside of the house by removing all sidings and foam insulation and replacing it / fixing what we encounter. Did they do the test for the whole house or targetted the basement?
Hey Jeff, love the videos and I have been using them as a reference throughout the summer while I finish my basement. I have a question for you, I am just getting it ready for drywall finishing the vapour barrier and back framing. I had the rim joist spray foamed this summer, the foam is touching the top plate all the way around so I am just attaching the VB at the top plate and not to the floor above between the joists. Is this sufficient? FYI we are also in eastern Ontario for building codes etc. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
You make everything look so easy wish I can be more efficient like you
Great ideas! Thanks for sharing all this information!
I’m in Alabama, so I’m insulating against outside heat and humidity as well as cold winters. Thanks again
Thanks for the vid. Is the soundtrack to 'Lethal Weapon' playing in the background? RIGGGSSS!!!
I'm getting way too old for this shit Riggs....
Lol loved those movies ! ..miss the old days
Thanks, The info will help me decide what to do, for my future basement project.
Thx for the good tips. Learning something in each video.
Love the video! Just had a question, is the writing on the Typar not supposed to face out?
Love all your videos. Have help me a lot.
so glad to hear. That is why we are here. Cheers!
This is awesome! I never thought of this. We are in South Carolina but are going to start doing the basement the typar/tyvek paper is what we need. Thanks!
greetings from the uk...jeff i find your videos invaluable many thanks 👍👍
The exterior vapor barrier wasn't shingled to prevent condensation from dripping to the inside of the stud wall. 😥. You have to make sure to shingle top in front of bottom from the perspective of the side where the vapor comes from.
Can you do a video on Finishing a basement with sump pumps? Please I would love to remodel my Basement.
Very helpful stuff. Thank you!
Thanks for the video! Very meticulous. It was like this place your basement! 😂 no cutting corners.
Really enjoy your videos. That being said, wouldn't the moisture you are trying to prevent from comming into contact with the concrete need positive drainage? If the concrete is the wet side (potentially) your Typar overlap is working against you. Am I wrong?
Hey Jeff. What are your thoughts on spray foam insulation vs the batt insulation for a basement?
Man you are a gift to us DIY guys
Thanks Sir. Really a huge help. Saved me thousands.
What would you recommend for window openings since you said there needs to be a gap between the walls? I can't figure out how to "tunnel" that space from the inside wall through to the basement window, at least nothing that would look nice.
I see you do one wall in this video (and show a laundry room that may or may not have been insulated the same way. Does this system require all walls to be insulated in the same way? Will it fail if there is one wall that isn't insulated? Would you insulate the exterior wall of the laundry room or would you insulate the interior wall of the laundry room?
You a bad boy. I'm second generation contractor. seen many. podcast on our industry. You're care about your audience and it's obvious. Keep up the awesome work bro. I'm Nelson The Painter from ATLANTA GA
Thanks for all the clearly recorded footage and inspirational narrative. Even I am feeling MUCH more informed, if not capable to do this stuff myself!! Had a flooded finished basement due to untoward weather event last February in Western OR. The house was built in 1952 with many modifications since, mostly unpermitted. Basement work was permitted in around 10 years ago which included lining the foundation with black plastic not attached to studs, then paperless fiberglass between studs down to rest on pressure treated wood which is secured to a slab that undoubtedly was poured without a barrier beneath. The finish is regular drywall and on the floor 6mil poly and click cork panel-lovely and warm. I'm left with 2ft flood cuts and am "ready" to restore the downstairs.The wood in studs and on the floor show no sign of water exposure and the batting which was removed had no visible mold/mildew. While I'm not expecting water intrusion again, I still want to move ahead in a manner that takes into account the possiblity of vapor and more. I can't afford overkill, so... Do I: 1) tear out the drywall and plastic ---and spray on closed cell or put in foam panels-if so, do I have to use some spray in behind the studs ---use typar or tyvec as you have demonstrated, then batting 2) leave the system as is and just replace the batting 3) replace the drwall with same or with cement board? I am definitely going to use a dimple mat this time around and if I want to go with cork again, would I use 1-step and then just lay the cork atop or for "better safe than sorry" go with DMX, plywood then LVT?
Hi Janet, Wow That is one doozy of a question. First of all let me say that weather events happen. And when you get a flooded basement there is little you can do in the building system to protect you for every possible occasion. Having said that I have found that simple building systems and the following trick will help make the restoration process really quick and painless. First since 8 out of ten water events in a basement are less than 2 Inches I always suggest to people that are prone to regular water events they can install blocking in the wall at 6 inches from the floor and then insulate above that. This enables the restoration crew to remove the baseboards and just drill holes in the drywall that will be covered up by the baseboards later. The fans can then circulate behinds the walls to dry everything out. since you are using a cork floor it can be removed and reinstalled. When the drying is done simply put the floor and baseboards back on and maybe a touch up paint on the trim and you are good to go. If you are looking for a permanent solution you need to waterproof the exterior walls outside to the weeping tile. Make sure any windows have drainage tile in them as well and cover the wells in the winter so that you don't get a thaw freeze effect getting water around the sill of the window. Have a sump pit and as a last measure install an interior perimeter drain attached to the sump pit. This pit needs a second pump as a backup with a battery backup and perhaps an alarm with notification to your phone. This can be in excess of $40,000 and needs to be a value to you. Everything else in between will fail and so will this technique if you get more than 2 inches. In closing we love the space the bathroom provides but we need to remember they are susceptible to these types of problems and balance out the investment with the benefit for yourself. Insurance companies will not change their protocol for flood response based on your building system but they will do the drilling and air movement if it is clean water and that is over 90 % of the cases. Good luck I hope this helps. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to even read my long winded query... AND then respond. While noone can see the future, the past 22 years in this house have never seen water incurison-even during a flat out flood (we are not in any kind of flood zone), so I am hoping this was a one time freak event. Your minimalistic approach appeals to me. By Blocking, do you mean put some EPS in up against the plastic that is thereperpendicular to the floor-like a fire block sort of situation, then isul;ate above with batting. If I don't insulate those bottom 6 inches won't that be asking for condensation to form as I will be heating the basement. I really appreciate just having someone to ask. Thank you again.
Hi Janet, unless you are heating your basement at the floor there will be no change in temperature at the floor level. The walls and floor are the same temperature year round at that level and as such causes no condensation. Your best solution is to spray foam the walls , however that comes with an additional cost. usually triple the cost of batt.
Ah, I see. if I go with your idea of blocking at 6 inches and batts above that, can you describe the blocking more? Thank you so.
Your videos have been a great help doing some reno work in my basement! I was wondering what your thoughts are on using rigid insulation right against the exterior basement walls? After some water ingress last fall we had to put in a interior drain tile to sump pump (exterior solutions were not possible) and I am now working on re-framing the basement.
I was thinking about rigid foam too, and also metal framing. How is your progress?
How far off the concrete wall do you recommend framing the wall? And, what product do you use against the concrete wall?
I like this video, very helpful and complete.
Another great video thanks!
love these vids..1 small improvement is to use Rockwool or go to the trouble of XPS foam. .Fiberglass is not recommended by Fine Home Building and most experts...If it gets wet , stays wet and I always find some mold in it during renos
After watching all kinds of DIY videos on insulating.. I'm going with closed cell foam in my basement. My foundation has almost 6 feet of visible concrete in the backyard. Condensation like crazy. I need a complete vapor lock.
The exterior barrier behind the insulation, it appears to not be fixed to the wall except or the corner studs, is that correct?
I've just found your chanel today and watched a lot of the content you made and really loved it. I believe your chanel is one of the best if not the best renovation-focused chanel on YT. New subscriber.
Thanks Nikos, glad to have you with us. Cheers!
As always great job and video Jeff.
THank you for your comment , we appreciate it!
Great video Jeff. The building codes here in Australia are somewhat pathetic when it comes to moisture barrier & wall insulation. Thank you for the amount of time & effort that you, Max, & the team put in to produce such high quality videos.
Not sure what your winters are like there. Usually vapor barriers are designed for cold climate. If you are hot most of the year having that plastic sheet may cause other problems. I will need to visit one day and figure that out while on the beach.
Hi Jeff! Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and expertise on a wide range of topics! And your humor and directness make it fun to watch these videos. I'm working on some diy basement finishing projects in Minnesota. I have a tiny basement bedroom with 2 exterior cement block walls, a small 3/4 bathroom with 1 exterior cement block wall, and a family room with one unfinished exterior cement block wall with the main sewer drain running floor to ceiling about 4 1/8th inches out from the wall. I thought about framing/insulating but don't think I have the space to do so the proper way you showed in this video with leaving a gap. I assume you don't like the idea of furring strips based on your comment replies. Would you recommend just leaving them unfinished/uninsulated? Im leaning toward that in the bedroom bc its already so small. The paint in the bathroom is thick/textured stuff that started cracking along the seams of the cement block soon after we moved in despite having a fan on while showering. Any tips on how to fix that/paint that'll hold up better? For the family room- would you recommend framing around the sewer drain and making an access panel at the base of the wall? And maybe a soffit to hide it at the top? It extends about 11 inches away from the concrete wall at the ceiling. Thank you!!
Love watching this man. Brilliant!
Thanks Randy, Just a quick tip to keep things dry and comfy!
Thanks for the video and tips.
Would it be recommended to glue styrofoam to the concrete foundation, then leave the air gap? In Alberta. It gets COLD haha. Previous owner glued styrofoam to the walls.
towards the end of the video, the music sounds like Pink Floyd (David Gilmour). lol Awesome!!
Totally sounded like the beginning of "shine on you crazy diamond". Glad I wasn't the only one haha
Awesome videos thank you!!! Do have a video about insulating a half concert/ maisoned wall. I am planning on finishing my basement and can't find any good information about it.
Thanks for the video. Correct me if I'm wrong but there seems to be some consensus that vapor barrier films or paper are a bad idea for basements. Underground walls need to breath so moisture is never trapped on one side or the other. Also, fiberglass has also been thought of as a no no due to mold and mildew issues. I have been taught that the best and most cost effective method to insulate the basement is xps foam board Directly against the concrete wall followed by framing and then something like roxul between the studs for extra R-value. Again thanks for the videos. I have learned a lot.
The typar is not a vapor barrier. It is a house wrap that is designed to divert water. it does not trap vapor. Always best to refer to the local building code. I personally don't like any system in contact with my concrete. Iy wakes it so hard to identify and repair any future problems.
I understand. I did notice this in some building codes but here in New England it is not necessarily a requirement. I'm working on remodeling my house and have worked construction jobs in the past renovating basements. Ever situation with a poly film or fiberglass near the wall has revealed a lot of trapped moisture and dark mold. You can imagine there will be condensation on the concrete when it is cold and transitions into a warm space within the dwelling, so it makes sense that you leave an air gap and prevent any contact. Thanks again for the information.
vapor barrier is to be set on a warm side. In your area that may be more frequent on the concrete side of the wall trapping moisture in the framing.
I, and I beleive most other building scientists would not recomend this sort of assembly. In some areas code will require a vapor barrier on the conditioned side of the wall assembly. However the solution shown in the video has a couple problems . First I dont ever like to see fiberglass insulation in basements, and I see no excuse for that. Second Typar is only 10-15 perms. If the basement were to experiance a flooding event it would not allow water in the trapped cavity to escape fast enough to prevent mold growth. Even if it was 50 perms the water vapor would just be escaping into the enclosed cavity behind the wall until the humidity was near 100%. A better way to do this assemply is to use MemBrain instead of the poly barrier. This vapor retarder becomes vapor open when the humidity gets too high in the wall cavity, allowing water vapor to escape. I would personally also nix the typar altogether as its not really doing anything at that point.
LOL The best solution for a basement is a simple one. I have seen for years people trying to make the basement a living addition to the home and then they get flooded and start over again. Why invest huge amounts of money into a temporary space. Get bang for your buck but put your best living spaces above grade.
How much air space do you leave between the wall and the 2x4s?
Having framed custom homes and seeing other work many skip vapour barrier behind electrical boxes. In winter you definitely will feel a draft coming through those boxes. I think the new stuff is Owens Corning ecotouch insulation
Hi Jeff. I cant tell you how much I have learned watching your videos. The typar looks to be "loose" at the back of the framing. Is this to allow for airflow? I am at this stage of my basement now and trust your experience. Btw, I also used you membrane flooring with 5/8" osb. I also added 5/8" rigid foam under the the osb. dry and warm.
Shouldn't the top typar overlap the bottom typar on the outside so any water flows over rather than into the inside on the bottom typar? Also, wouldn't you tape the joints to make it completely sealed?
The Lethal weapon background music makes this video so seductive. 😍
Cheers!
That was helpful. Our fishing clubhouse three sides underground and is musty. No a/c. So was wondering how to tear walls out and properly insulate. You answered my question. I noticed your helper scratching his arms. So much for itch free insulation.
Getting some good ideas and tips on how to make a finished room in my basement. The other side is going to be "the shop". Thanks!
how long has Dave Matthews been installing insulation? dude knows what's up!
Great video! Thank you for sharing your technique! Would be great to have all materials and tools you used in description below the video;) Tnx again:)
we have an amazon link for all my favorite tools, Cheers! amzn.to/2ySCGMO
Love you videos. I don't even plan to do most of this stuff, but its very interesting to watch.
Thank you ever so much I have learned a lot from your clips in finishing basment. I wonder what would be your advice in regardes basement waterproofing for a 20 year old hause. Is it best to consider exterior or interior water proving measures. Even though the hause has installed sum bum I recntly notice water co densation drips and drops on the wall. So before staring to complete the basement what method should I consider interior or exterior water/condensation proofing basment.
I had a 4 inch gap in my in basement similar to this video and it didn't work. The gap was there because the basement was underpinned. I had moisture on the foundation wall behind the insulation. I know because I cut out a section to take a look when the basement started smelling mouldy. Location: Canada Now I have spray foam insulation on the basement walls and there is no problem. You can probably use rigid foam insulation behind the wood frame, but you better seal every connection and have some channel on the bottom to catch any water and diver it to a drain so it doesn't get under your floor.
Michael what is your foundation? I’m about to spray foam my rubble foundation. I’m putting delta-ms on the inside, bottom 5ft, to allow a thermal break so moisture won’t linger in the mortar and freeze. Also put delta-ms on the exterior with a new weeping tile last year to prevent moisture coming in.
hey I had a question. You said you were going to staple the typar to the studs. How exactly did you do that because I didnt find it in the video.
He actually pulled the ends of the typar around to the front of the framing (at either end) and stapled to the front, I believe.
He doesn't, you can tell when he pushes the insulation against it, it moves.
It is not stapled to the foundation wall side of the studs. The wall is built in place first, then the Typar wrapped around it on the foundation side. Then the Typar is stapled at the wall ends, on the living space side. This prevents the Typar from being pulled from any staples on the foundation side, creating holes in the Typar. If you are framing the wall on the floor and then lifting it into place, you do not attach the Typar until the wall is plumbed, for the same reason (to avoid tearing it).
Good afternoon. I am a subscriber to your channel , I have learned very much and appreciate your posts . Especially the painting posts . I have a question, I am insulating my basement just as you did in the basement. My local hardware store tells me that very few contractors insulate with the pink insulation, instead they use sheets of styrofoam with reflective backing . Which do you prefer ? Thank you 🙏.
Great video! I have to frame 8" from the concrete wall due to the waste main and other plumbing lines against the concrete, would the same process apply? And staple the typar to the back of the framing, if so? Or right to the concrete as a moisture barrier? Thanks for a great DIY video!
After gutting our basement, getting mold remediated, and putting in a french drain, I will be rebuilding the basement myself. I would like to use the system you show above, however, considering we were getting alot of moisture through the walls (100 year old house, poured concrete in northern NJ), I am wondering if I should also drylock the walls. My questions are: 1. Will the typar and drylock create a space from which the humidity cannot escape and trap the moisture? 2. Is this overkill Looking forward to hearing from you and thanks for the great channel!!
Wow!!!! What a great question. Since you are a member i will give you the full answer. The best way to keep moisture out is from the outside. Using drylock on the inside will definitely help However I would suggest using a vapor barrier with a french drain system so that you isolate the foundation from the living space. The use of an airspace is only valuable to homes that need to regularly transfer moisture to the framing and ultimately to the outside through relative humidity transfer that don't have a french drain. Once you install the drain you can effectively separate the outside wall from the interior wall with a vapor barrier and eliminate the need for moisture transfer to the framing. This is a much more ideal system and will result in lower energy costs as well. If you need clarification feel free to call me on the callmart app. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!!!! that is super helpful! Would love to get on a call for 5 minutes if you have the time to make sure I fully understand. How do I go about connecting on the callmart app?
Hi Eyal, I will repost the instructions in the community post in a few seconds. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi Jeff, I just tried calling 3 times on call mart, it picks up, then immediately hangs up, I then immediately received 3 charges on my card for $18.71. not sure what I am doing wrong
@@eyaldimant6824 contact a reputable sprayfoam company and have them spray the concrete directly. It will solve all your issues, I live in Ontario where moisture is a big problem. Batts/poly is just a cheap system for what the cost of spraying is/what it gives in return. We sprayed an entire 4000sqft house, no moisture problems and the homeowners heating bills are less than half of the neighbours with similar sized homes.
Do you recommend covering the bare concrete wall with a product like Drylok or something similar?
I'm using Drylok Pro, on the inside wall as well as it has additional mildew resistance.
Hi Jeff and crew. Thanks for your patience. For the past two years I feel that my basement humidity has increased especially during summer. I purchased a dehumidifier and RH is going up to 78% but it never stays down to 55% if the device is shut for a day or two. I feel like tearing a few walls, have a look and redo the insulation with the trick in this video and perhaps using mold free drywall, and roxul comfortbatt. Is this a good idea or I am losing my time? My sump never get water, and my basement is deep all windows have window wells.. It has become a concern as my home office is in the basement and spending 40 hrs a week in there.
Huge fan of your channel, I see some people stating not to use the 6mm vapor barrier and it causes more problems. Your thoughts.
Is that typar installed to the back of the stud wall or straight to the foundation wall? Also, instead would you recommend installing a 1/2”, 1” or even 2” rigid insulation right to the foundation wall, building your wall, putting in your batt insulation and then plastic vapour barrier, is is that over kill??
By putting the wrap on the outside and inside the 2x4's, aren't you creating a double barrier and actually trapping moisture in? Wouldn't it be easier to just use a faced insulation product?
Guy Julian the outside one is breathable.
@@MitchellCallahan the plastic wrapping is breathable????? Or not??
@@MitchellCallahan Typar is for use above grade, since wind penetration is not usually a problem underground this is a waste of time and money, and yes I agree that you are creating more problems than you are solving.
Your all video is the best and best and I love your work you are so nice and clever mane
Thank you!
Great videos they have helped me a lot. But how much air space should I leave between my cinder block foundation and my frame work? And how would I frame out a window in a cinder block foundation?
I'm getting itchy just watching you handle that insulation raw dawg.
the assistant was itching his hand 10:25
At one point he put it up to his face and smelled it or something
The Owens Corning pink insulation kinda smells like maple syrup. @@joewellindowd5664
The newer Owens Corning pink doesn't itch. It's very soft and comfortable to work with.
R12 isn’t legal anywhere in Canada. Best to do 2 inch rigid foam directly against the foundation wall, a gap to allow for squaring of the walls and R14 Roxul. No vapour barrier needed
r12 is allowed in any structure with a n existing 2x4 construction. That is why they still sell it. You are right that they don't use it on new builds anymore.
2inch foam will cost $35 a panel. Hell with that
I used a variation of Thermafiber/ Owens Corning products , sound control , moisture control, accessibility ... best products for FG and mineral wool.
@@vanderumd11 closed cell spray, not rigid.
I agree, I did 2” ridged foam right over the concrete walls then R15 thermal fiberglass and no vapor barrier (don’t want a vapor sandwich). Sealed the foam on all edges and also put 2” in the rim joist cavities and sealed with caulking and spray can foam. Air tight now! And the 2” foam was only $20 sheet. Spray foam is much more expensive than ridged (although the ultimate solution IMHO if you can afford it).
Thanks for that video ! How did you fix the first barier ( charcoal paper ) ? Do you need space between the concreate and this paper ?
Jeff Thorman is a good practical teacher.
I am also a little over weight but working on that. Cheers!
seems pretty knowledgeable, and a decent guy definitely not an insulation professional,
Great video. I have been watching videos and reading a lot about insulating below grade. My basement have brick walls and the previous owners insulated the exterior walls putting the studs and fiberglass directly on the brick (BAD) so in going through the info I realized there are quite an amount of methods to insulate appropriately and the one I decided to go for is to put the 2 inch pink foam on the brick walls, build the framing on top of the foam and then insulate with roxul (thermal) basically, just using inorganic materials to avoid moisture and mold (I know some walls in the basement have mold because the bad job the previous owners did). This method could get expensive but thought it was the best aside from spray foam. I am curious about your method... do you think the method I decided to go for is cost effective and efficient? Is it any good? And compared to your method... is it less expensive using yours and more efficient? Thanks!!
That is a solid process. Just remember I leave asn air space to deal with minor water occurrences due to crazy climate. rock insulation is twice the cost of fiberglass which is also not organic and the mold comes from the wood so it must be kept dry.
Thank you! Yes, the breathing space makes a lot of sense. All official documents of my area instruct to glue the xps on the brick but I don’t know, I like that airflow between the brick wall and the xps.
Gluing 2 inches xps on the brick will prevent condensation, therefore no need for that breathing space. You can also buy foam that has a foil sheeting on one side. Anyway, your process is very solid and that is what they recommend for the Quebec City area (very cold weather)
Can rock insulation as in roxul comfortboard 80 go directly on concrete foundation wall (company said that is an acceptable option) or must tyvek be laid first directly on the concretw? foundation? Thanks.
mieral wool can be laid direct to and stone or concrete as long as any water has somewhere to evacuate.
Great Videos. Editing & sound is great. Love your extra tips you include in your vids. Keep up the good work!!
Thank you very much. Cheers!
Great video!!! I am starting to plan finishing my basement but i have a half-top blanket wrap insulation only. Should i finish the bottom with FOAMULAR 150 or similar? Thanks!
10:25 "This insulation is not itchy!"
why did you overlap the water barrier the way you did? If moisture flows down it will flow into the insulation, no?
there is no moisture flowing down the interior of the building. I am simply using a n inexpensive material to hold the insulation against the frame.
I'm leaving my ceiling exposed would you still vapor barrier right to the floor joist? Or top plate of wall. I'll be spraying the ceiling.tx great 👍 video
Great video we bought a townhouse, the bathroom upstairs was redone, but the lady did not insulate the walls.. you can feel the cold from the exterior walls all three sides.. Now we have to diy the right way.. and install an exhaust fan
Do you recommend this method instead of using SM rigid foam sheets up against the foundation? (in nothern ontario climate)
If youre in canada, i wouldnt do what this dude thinks works!!! Just like an icy glass of water in the summer sweating, you need a thermal break! What this dudes doing does NOT work for the long term... Even though youre insulating between the studs the studs themselves transfer heat/cold which will eventually lead to sweating which = moisture against that vapour barrier! This method is old school and foolish in my opinion... May meet code but will mold undoubtedly! Plus if youre a logical thinking, what do porous things do? Yep absord/wick moisture! In a basement it cant push itself outward so itll push itself inward unlike an upper level! So would you trust that think layer of tyvek?
Do not use batt insulation in a basement. This is an awful idea and I have no idea what this man was thinking.
@@jimhendrix7776 Brother, the only 6 Mil vapor barrier is on the inside of the 2x4. Now since the wall is roughly 1" from the Concrete Wall and the Tyvek/Typar Wrap is NOT a Vapor Barrier! It is a Water Diversion system. Now if you are worried about rotting out your Studs. In Canada, we have two ways to deal with it... 1) Pressure Treated 2x4's. MAKE SURE TO SEAL THEM IF YOU CUT ONE! 2) Use Spruce 2x4's and lay Plastic under it, personally I don't like this idea but it is CODE and acceptable So to answer your last question. With ANOTHER QUESTION. Why do they use it on the OUTSIDE of a house? In your opinion..the water will leach in and ROT your entire house. To use your facts. Water is WICKED by concrete...what kind of floor do you have? I am betting Concrete. Unless it is painted or sealed..the framing of the basement with a space of 1" will take care of all the water that accumulates, unless you have a serious water problem. Since the Batts of Insulation CAN NOT come in contact with the Concrete wall the chances of Moisture reaching it is Minimal! Even if water does get there Tyvek/Typar allows air to pass through it, so the Batts of Insulation will dry rather quickly. Hence NO MOLD!
Can mold grow between the cement and the Typar?
Yup
It's like EVIL,it can grow anywhere
Wow! Thank you for the very clear info! When our neighbor's pool split open this summer, we pulled back the wood panelling to allow for proper drying ... and found zero plastic sheeting and puny little white styrofoam blocs with huge air gaps...no wonder our basement is always cold and humid. (We're in Montreal).
WOW, sounds like you need a major overhaul. Best of luck with that.
thanks for the video! was wondering what this new non itchy pink insulation is called?
No plastic sheet around the octagon box. The vent (plumbing) needs a support half way down wall or more!
Humblehombre how do you put plastic around the octogon?
The music made me feel like I was watching a dramatic scene in a 1980's action move... i.e. Lethal Weapon.
SAME!
Riggs!!!
Wow I thought the same thing
its sounds like a scene when the Hot girl is putting gasoline in her hotrod in slow-motion