Why Use RIGID Insulation board On basement walls
Basement Wall Insulation Using Rigid Foam Board
FULL Article: www.aconcordcarpenter.com/bas...
Sealing Rim Joists: www.aconcordcarpenter.com/sea...
Best practice for basement wall insulation [best insulating and vapor barrier system] is closed-cell foam, the second-best is using foam board, especially if you’re trying to save money. Using a rigid foam board creates a good vapor barrier along with an insulation layer that won’t promote mold growth. Rigid insulation board is also called Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation.
Basement Insulation Vapor Barrier
The simplest way to prevent this water vapor from entering the space is to prevent air movement [moisture] into the basement by installing a vapor barrier. When properly installed, closed-cell foam (spray or rigid foam board) acts as a vapor barrier and insulates. [poly plastic and Kraft faced insulation is not a good solution for basement vapor barriers. ] The main goal for using rigid foam board against masonry walls is to prevent air vapor movement and mold growth, while it can be the only insulation used in a basement insulation system, it’s often supplemented by fiberglass insulation.
The BEST Rigid Board To Use
There are two types of rigid board commonly used.
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation board
Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) insulation boar
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation foam boards deliver long-term stable thermal performance of R-5 per inch. Compared to spray foam, it’s harder to install in awkward areas (for example, in a tight space where a rim joist is close to another parallel joist). Rigid foam is also fussy to install if the rim joists has a lots of wiring and pipe penetrations. But its cheaper and a popular choice if you’re doing a DIY project.
Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) is a closed-cell, rigid insulation foam board that is bonded to facers on both sides Polyiso is most commonly used due to its fire-retardant properties. Under normal fire conditions, XPS, melts and drips while polyiso, chars over.
The foil facing also helps with the limiting of any moisture travel. Polyiso is commonly used in roof, wall, ceiling and specialty applications within commercial and residential buildings of all types.
Relocate Any Wall Obstructions
Prior to installing polystyrene insulation boards on your masonry wall you need to make sure the wall is clear of pipes, electrical wires and other obstructions. If you do run into obstructions you can start and stop your rigid foam on either side of it and fill that area with spray foam.
Use Insulation Foam Boards [XPS or Polyiso]
Install 2″ insulation foam boards in a vertical orientation, tight to the floor and top of wall or joist bay. See How To Insulate A Rim Joist.
We ensure that the boards fit together using the factory joints, and then return later to tape all seams.
Prior to installing the next insulation board, we add a thick bead of adhesive in the edge groove.
We use DAP DynaGrip construction adhesive for Styrofoam products, and to adhere the boards to masonry walls. DynaGrip is a premium high strength adhesive for heavy interior/exterior construction and remodeling projects.
This multi-material adhesive delivers a powerful instant grab to hold the vertical insulation boards and creates a durable long-lasting adhesion. We apply a zig-zag pattern of 1/2″ bead directly to the wall and press the insulation board in place.
Seal Vertical Joints With Foil Tape
Tape all vertical seams using a foil tape compatible with the foam board. This type of tape has a durable backing, coated with an aggressive acrylic adhesive that offers excellent adhesion, and sealing properties.
Seal Top and Bottom Joints With Foam
Once all of the insulation foam boards are installed to the walls, and the vertical edges have been taped we then seal the top and bottom edge. Using a Pro Series spray gun applicator we completely fill all gaps, remaining penetrations, and any air leaks using DAP Touch ‘n Foam Polyurethane Foam Sealant.
This All-Purpose sealant is a 1-component polyurethane foam sealant that dispenses approved fire-block (ICC-ES ESR-1926) foam.
Seal the Rim Joist and Sill Plate Area
The rim joist is located above grade and for many years we treated it similar to the wall insulation above, by stuffing fiberglass batt insulation in the rim joist bays. This method is no longer recognized as best practice. Best practice for rim joist and sill plate is to seal all cracks against air leakage and then insulate the area.
Frame Basement Walls
Install basement walls up tight to the 2″polystyrene insulation boards. Fiberglass insulation can then be applied to the studs walls, to increase the basement insulating R-value.
your best practice is like listening to a step by step work instruction. I like it! Thumbs up
Best video as a DIYr that I've seen on basement insulation. So much conflicting info out there. You sold me on this system.
So happy I saw this video before replacing my basement insulation . When I pulled out the rim joist fiberglass batt, I found found black marks showing all kinds of air leaks. Using the rim joist video, I installed foam board sealed with spray in insulation before adding rockwool. Thanks!
Great video. Here in Michigan we’ve been dealing with flooding this past year and I’m trying to find a new way to handle it without a repeat occurrence
Some good tips, have only taped over the joints before- might go into more detail on the next build 👍
Thanks for the video, Robert DeNiro. I am always amazed at the diversity of characters and roles that you are able to play!
That guy neither looks, sounds, or acts like DeNiro. Put down the crack pipe.
@@markbrinton6790 Nah, there is def a resemblance. You may want to visit an optometrist soon...
I've lived in my house for 11 years, and I am finally getting to work on my basement. I cannot wait to insulate it! Thank you for this video and the one about insulating the rim joists.
Glad it helped
Thank you for a great video, love the clarity and exact info and getting to the point - kept me interested; I would say I am a fan. Good job 👍🏽
great info. my favorite part of your video method is no small talk, straight to the info.
Hey Rob - Great video. I am an DIY'er and often have trouble finding any guidance from the big box stores. I really appreciate you sharing your expertise! Keep the videos coming! Thanks again!
Thx
Thx
What a great video. My wife and I were just talking about finishing the basement. Thank you for making this video.
Awesome video. I am having my foam installed professionally, but you're helping me to learn.
I’m banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how to make my insulation board attach to my poured concrete walls in my basement. This video just helped tremendously. Thank you!
Lol really that's the easiest thing...GLUE
Great video... before even stumbling upon this I'm using the exact same method to insulate the basement by myself in my new home I'm building. I first tried using powder actuated nail fasteners to fasten the board to the masonry, but the nails kept bending or shooting through the board and ruined it. So I abandoned that and now am using construction adhesive. It's slower but it works like a champ. I will spray foam all the seems when I'm done. Fellow Wolverine here... Nice video and Go Blue!
Q . @is
This was perfect! Thanx guys for taking the time to educate!
Of course the coldest day of the year with 1” of ice and 2” of snow is when I go looking for home insulation videos.😂😂 Only to find your channel and come to the realization that my crawl space insulation is woefully inadequate. It’s going to be a busy spring, I’ll be catching up on all your videos until then. Thanks for all the tips.
Rob...Rob..Rob...great video. Now can we talk about you're incredibly organized woodworking shop? Holy crap!!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This is pretty interesting for me, I live in south Mississippi and we dont have basements here. Seems like moisture would definitely be a problem in a basement.
Great tips for those redoing their basements, thank you ✊🏻
Thanks for the knowledge, Rob !!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the info doing a whole home remodel and need all the info I can get.
This video is AWSOME. Actually gives guidance
Ran this inside the underskirting on my mobile home and it's almost as warm under it than in the house. Excellent advice here. Still kept the heat tape on our water line though.
Good insurance - no frozen pipes
This was super helpful to know! I’m in the discovery process of finding a crew for a major basement/foundation remodel this spring. I’ll be in touch!
How did it go?
@@ChadAmI80 it didn’t yet unfortunately! We’ve had to wait for a list of reasons.
Hey guys really enjoy the videos. I have a 20' x 16 shed / Office that I have A/C (I am in Florida) and I have 2" x 4" exterior wall what would you use to insulate the walls and roof areas. It sounds like the beat I am going to get is an R10 or R13 with either the spray foam or the Foam Board. Keep up the great videos. D
My old cinder block walls look like someone got real casual with alignment towards the top. Still, I’m considering putting foam boards where I can so they’re flat, and where the gaps are, to fill with spray foam. And then just create the stud wall an extra inch out. The extra gap between studs and foam board will just have to be filled in with more spray foam or rock wool.
Awesome, I love this. I had no idea what to use in my basement. Thank you!!!
Happy to help
Outstanding. Great presentation and teaching
Excellent videos!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Much appreciated!
Glad you enjoyed it, please consider subscribing and clicking the notification bell.
Thank you for this video. Perfect and logical information
It's important to note that sealing the seams of Insulation board is an absolute must. Any air gaps around or between the board and the masonry (even the grout channel) that can draw warm air against a cold foundation in the winter is an absolute breeding ground for condensation/mold.
Agreed
Because of that, cutting the foam 1/4 inch smaller to allow access to the tip of the seal foam spray can should be considered a good practice.
@@wysiwyg2489 or use a foil or 3M all weather tape
Great video. If installing a dimpled submembrane and XPS on the wall, where would the air flow escape to if you seal the rim joist/sill plate area?
I've never thought about cutting foam boards with a circular saw. I always use a cheap bread knife.
True professional !
If you value your life, cut this iso with a hand saw, measure for your cut, slice the iso on the back side of the sheet, slide your chalk line in that slice and snap the cut line, and make the cut with one the old handsaws you inherited. It will take an extra 30 seconds and you will be breathing easier than cutting by circ saw. Total hari kari with a circ saw. The dust created will not be airborne, spread out a sheet of poly below the sawhorses & dump the residue onto the poly and its easy clean up. Best Insulation value available.
I've heard it can get messy good of you to pass on your experience.
25mm blade utility knife great option imo
Thanks for your expertise. Nice Hat, Go Sparty🏈
Nice. We gotta decide what to do.
I've often thought about this subject so thank you for the information. Now here's a question for you. What about during the summer? Where I live, the basement is amazing as it brings in the cooler temperature from the surrounding soil & makes it wonderful. How does that effect it?
Great info, thank you. Go Blue!
Hi. Thx for the informative video and your expertise. I installed my rigid high performance aluminum sided foam insulation board behind an already framed wall. Now I want to insulate between the studs also. Can I cut another foam board and place it between the studs? Or do I have to use insulation batting? I prefer to use the foam board for moisture resistance but don’t know if that’s advisable…I know it’s more expensive and more work but I’m okay with spending more money and taking the time. I already bought the enough boards. I also have Owens Corning XPS insulating sheathing foam boards I could use. Thx for and advise or suggestions. Really appreciate
Excellent video
Thank you.
Rob great the video, I am looking to refinish my basement the house had drainage & foundation issues which have been corrected. The basement walls are block wall with thoro-seal masonry coating on them. Would the ridged board or close cell spray foam you spoke of work in this situation? I have steel I-beams running vertical every 8' around the perimeter of the basement.
Are you related to Duke Robillard? He's a fantastic blues musician. I enjoy your videos. This job on the basement is top notch.
No relation
great vid....best to not use fibreglass in bsmnt at all...Rockwool if you can'y use foam
Hey Rob, I've always used metal studs in basements because they're unaffected by moisture. Also if it's specked for fiber I'll use mineral wool because it's hydro phobic. Both will not harbor mold or encourage rot.
All good stuff
Is it actually worth insulating the basement? In my house, the basement is unfinished, but during winter it still keeps a respectable temperature along with the rest of the house.
Have a pretreat of termiticide first. I've seen termites travel up (unexpected areas) to reach their food source of cellulose.
Perfect timing tyvm
Thank you! Can you affix this board under a metal fireplace base? That is, in my basement, I can see the underside of the wood burning fireplace that is located in the family room above it. I assume the metal will get warm when a fire is going. (I don't use it.) The area is an alcove that will be turned into a closet. Should I keep the polyiso x" away from the metal? I was going to use .5" polyiso in this area since it's a closet. I don't see how to attach a photo for clarity. Thank you!
What if there is plastic over the basement concrete wall? Do you still use foli faced styrene?
QUESTION: I live in northern ME, cold! Bought a new home this year. If i add 2" insulation board to my guest room, against the drywall will it be worth the effort? thanks
I used owen corning 2inch foam board. I used liquid nails against mssonsry. I just had to remove section because a leak in wall. There was mold all over liquid nails attatched to wall and foam board.
Does liquid nail have organic material? I used a rigid foam safe construction adhesive on mine
Hi, would this be good for a CMU type detached garage? I am thinking of insulating the walls with polyiso then framing in beyond that as the area will be heated and cooled year round.
Basement walls can only dry to the inside. So by putting up a foil faced insulation you are trapping moisture between the wall and foil insulation. This is a place for mold to form. Then if that mold gets through to the wood studs and back of the drywall it won’t be long before it’s causing havoc in the basement. From the reading I’ve done it is best to let the walls breathe. Use a EPS beaded foam glued to the walls. This lets some drying to the inside happen. Using metal studs would eliminate organic materials and a paperless drywall would also allow drying. This would make an assembly that can dry to the inside.
How can trapping the moisture in the cavity between the foam and the concrete cause mold without a food source or a mold spore to land on said moisture? Also moisture will travel both in and out depending on the delta T and season. We have over 4000+ units completed in this manner with zero issues. If the hydrology is an issue with the basement then the moisture is now water and when the water builds and makes its way thru the concrete you would need to waterproof the wall first prior to insulating.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indoor_mold
Frank M Bood Where is the trapped moisture to go? Provided there is not a moisture management like a French drain, drain matting to a floor drain that moisture is there for how long? Having a vapor closed insulation trapping moisture till it inevitably leaks into the living space is not good. If you are implying that moisture that comes in will be drawn back into the foundation and back to the soil I have a hard time seeing that in the northern climate zones. Taking into consideration if the foundation is properly sealed from the outside and capillary break is installed there will be little chance of water getting in till one or both of those seals break. Also exterior landscaping draining away from the foundation. My concern with any building method is not the short term durability but the long term. What measures are put in place to assure that if or when there is a failure within the system that a secondary backup is there to manage moisture. I don’t see a back up system put in place with this building method. You may very well have one in your building system. I’m admit I’m not a pro. I’ve done lots of reading a research across multiple sources. I’m just questioning the durability of a system that relies on a perfect seal. Stopping the flow of bulk water and water vapor is in my opinion a loosing battle. I believe it better to allow it to be managed. That foil tape will only stay sealed for so long. Then the bulk water and water vapor has organic material to feed on(wood studs). Using organic building materials below grade is a risk. Especially when you are relying on perfection. Thanks for the debate. I believe I have stated my opinion. There’s lots of them. I have not put any specific links to references. I’m not concerned with taking that time. I believe you are well educated enough to understand the points I have made.
@@jeremycondon3692 I agree with your concerns. Thanks for the open discussion. I live and work in an area where it is code to have a drain system and water protection on the exterior foundation. (perfect world) Therefore we don't see much failure in our newer projects. In our older renovations we use Dimple mat then spray closed cell spray foam as best practice. A majority of older homes here have an interior drainage system. This dimple mat helps allow the water to run down to the drainage system. We ask the system installers to run the dimple mat up the wall out of the drain a foot or so. (when we can) This allows us to install our dimple mat behind theirs and spray it in place. Have you seen water intrusion on a large scale where you live? I am limited to my knowledge of my area only. Thanks again for the input. These conversation help us all grow.
Frank M Bood yes exterior foundation drainage systems are code here as well. There is instances though when they are not done to the attention of detail and procedures necessary for successful long term operation. I’m not familiar with many houses having a French drain unless it was installed once a water problem was found or as part of a basement finishing system. I think having a working drainage system behind your basement finishes is definitely best. That and making sure all landscaping is draining away from the foundation. I’ve started down the long planning process of my own basement renovations. The old finishings were definitely not of any good design. 1x4s nailed to the concrete walls on 4’ centers and 3/4” eps barely adhered to the walls. It was covered with that ugly 1/4” wood pressboard paneling. The floor was covered with carpet that was glued heavily to the concrete floor. Shortly before I moved in the original owners of the house had a water leak due to the window wells flooding. They fixed the exterior issues but left the basement finishings in place. I removed them shortly after moving in and prepped for a fresh redo. I have been reading and researching techniques for over a year and planning. In that time I have had no water issues in the basement so I am confident as long as I follow best practices I will have a successful renovation. I have gathered: - it’s best to not use organic materials below grade. - fiberglass insulation is best left out of the insulation plan even if foam is applied first. - proper drainage systems need to be in place regardless of the dryness of your basement. -fix any known water issues before starting the finishings. - build a system that can dry to the inside With this in mind I have found a couple insulation strategies that fall within those guidelines. Glue EPS foam to the walls somewhere in the R20 range. And then build a wall in front using metal studs. The other alternative I have found is Insofast insulation which is a specially designed insulation that has integrated studs 16” OC that eliminate the need for building a additional stud wall for installation of your wall finishing. Or if you have the deep pockets. Dig up the perimeter of your house and seal and insulate then redo the perimeter drains if needed and might as well integrate downspouts at that time. My plan for the floor is a dimple mat with LVP since I have a limited head room of 7’ I’m still looking at other options like Rockwool comfort board and batts but due to added wall thickness I’m really interested in the Insofast system.
Would this method still work properly for an attached garage with masonry block walls. I have a living space above the garage that is cold in the winter. Would i still need the vapor barrier on the ceiling if i insulate walls with the the rigid board, Frame, and insulate and put osb over that?
Any info on crawl spaces my dad on bedroom on my 850 square ft. House I suspect has nothing but dirt under it floor feels pretty bouncy I will being removing the sub floor but would it be cheaper to foam it than have concrete hauled in?
For rim joist insulation,how about sealing with closed cell spray foam the put in rockwool batts ?
I'm having trouble finding tongue and groove 2" foam board. Is there a shortage currently?
Great information
thanks- is it true that polyiso not recommended for below grade applications due to its lack of water resistance- compared to xps eps?
Would hitting the block /concrete with drylock or equivalent first be overkill?
very informative, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the great video, Rob. How would you fireblock up to code with rigid foam?
Frame over it and add 1/2" drywall
How do I know if the coverage and board choice is inline with building codes? I seem to be finding conflicting information. Thanks...
Something a lot of people don't know though, is that polyiso r-value can drop dramatically when it's cold. It's something you can totally work around, but you have to know about it first.
has to be really cold to make a meaningful difference.
My basement has exist cmu with 1x furring 16"oc with paneling and likely no ext and int moisture barrier. How would you handle this situation: leave exist furring in place, apply 2" polyico to furring, apply 1/2" MR gyp board directly to polyico (which side?), etc? I thought about applying 3/4" rigid insul between furring, possibly adding another 1" rigid insul over furring and insul, applying vapor barrier overlapping 6", then applying MR gyp board? Seems to be endless options and applications but I'm looking for best practice for old cmu basement walls and humid basement conditions. Also, if water penetrates into the block and contacts the polyico and drains to floor does this create problems as well? Thanks
Fella level with me, How can one identify different types of rigid foam board ?? I see this for salw a lot and would like to know how to verify different types. Did they make open cell stuff in the beginning ?? Nice video fella.
you need to mention the thermal barrier requirement its very important
Ron, never cut polyiso without a dust mask! The particles are like fine spiked crystals and attack eye membranes,lungs,and gut!
Also use an Olfa/“exacto” knife and you will minimize the dust particles
Didn’t know that , not a a lot of visible airborne dust
@@ConcordCarpenter great video - I found a paring knife from the big box works great - blade is long AND rigid enough to cut 2" iso with no dust
@@ConcordCarpenter The construction industry has two types of workers - those who aren't willing to accept the increased expense, time and discomfort of truly protecting their eyes, ears, lungs, skin, joints, phalanx - essentially the whole body - with appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, and those who don't. The difference between the two types can be measured in quality of remaining life, time to graveyard presence, and graveyard presence. It takes focus, determination and discipline to chase the least dangerous option in the time and cost-pressured construction industry. I would urge all workers to take short term pain of wearing PPE over the long term of various skin conditions, aching bodies and fatal lung conditions. Even if it means saying goodbye to the the better paying 'seat-of-their-pants' company, your body (and family) will benefit. Take a look at the physical and mental condition of construction workers from the generations who didn't benefit from today's medical knowledge, appropriate PPE and legislation - 99% will be a mess, the 1% who took the ridiculing/abuse will be in great shape. A thermal image camera will show just how far and wide the presence of toxic dust is. Not a direct attack. Great channel. Hitting the subscribe button now.
Very helpful!
So if I use the rigid board taped and then pink wool between the studs do I need to install a vapour barrier on the inside ? Like u would normally. I'm guessing no as this would make a second barrier
If your going to make your house this air tight mold is inevitable without a good Heat Recovery Ventilation system. Mold spores are everywhere, and as long as you have a food source, mold will thrive. I do like these materials your suggesting. 👍
Thanks for sharing
What’s the best type of drywall to use in a basement finish (Northeast). Thanks
I got an uninsulated cellar directly underneath my porch. It gets real hot with the morning sun in the summer and icy cold in the winter. can I insulate the concrete ceiling in there the same way as basement walls or would I need to do something different?
Rob, great video as always. Are you seeing much GPS in your next of the woods? Do you have any views on it for basements? Where would you rank it relative to EPS and Polyiso?
No, Polyiso is 99% of what we see unless it’s homeowner installed. Contractors who typically install this do so in basements with the hope that they will get the future of sale of framing and finishing the basement. In a DIY situation, I would say the GPS is common because of its access and availability at the local Home Depot or Lowe’s. There are two types of rigid boards we've commonly used. Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation board Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) insulation boar Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) insulation foam boards deliver the long-term stable thermal performance of R-5 per inch. Compared to spray foam, it’s harder to install in awkward areas (for example, in a tight space where a rim joist is close to another parallel joist). Rigid foam is also fussy to install if the rim joists have a lot of wiring and pipe penetrations. But its cheaper and a popular choice if you’re doing a DIY project. Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) is a closed-cell, rigid insulation foam board that is bonded to facers on both sides Polyiso is most commonly used due to its fire-retardant properties. Under normal fire conditions, XPS, melts and drips while polyiso, chars over. The foil facing also helps with the limiting of any moisture travel. Polyiso is commonly used in roof, wall, ceiling and specialty applications within commercial and residential buildings of all types.
@@ConcordCarpenter GPS carries higher r value per inch, , and for those who care, better for environment
If I’m doing closed cell spray foam should I get the walls sprayed first then build my framing walls or build walls first an inch of the wall and then have it sprayed?
Rob, Great video as usual. Is that a UofM cap you're sporting? Still lots of snow up here in the Traverse City, MI area!
Bill K Go Blue
Ludington! Woo!
How 'bout those Buckeyes? Still hoping for a game one of these years.
Any tips for installing ridgid board on basement walls that have large metal beam bracing?
1st choice is exterior insulation, 2nd choice is interior closed cell spray.
Isn't Polyiso best used in insulation zones 1-4, while zones 5-8 not so much? I read the gases used to achieve the higher R-value when forming it dissipates over time, within 6 months to 1 year in some cases based on the zone. What is your stance on that? Thanks
Can you apply the 2” board directly to a brick foundation basement wall? I thought that would create a mold issue
Hi Ron, I liked this video, thanks. I am looking for insulation information/tips for a fieldstone foundation (Massachusetts if that matters). Is there a different approach to insulating a fieldstone foundation? I would appreciate any advice you have.
I’d spray it
Some manuf of polyiso don't approve its use where it will come in contact with water. Also, if there's enough moisture in the wall and this is done, the water can migrate upwards towards the sill. If there's no capillary break (sill seal) and the sill isn't made of PT, then completely sealing from the inside can lead to a rotted sill. Better is a sump pump to manage water as it enters. Best is to control moisture from outside the concrete wall. I think also that I would use rigid foam up until a certain point and then switch to something that is vapor open at the rim joists (like rock-wool). Humidity entering from there could be managed with a dehumidifier.
Do you mean moisture or water will desolve the foamboard? I want to use what he's using to insulate underneath my metal patio roof and it may sweat in the corrugated ridge where the foam is not glued with the adhesive but it can drain down into a gutter at the bottom of the roof but i didn't know water or moisture could desolve the board.
Hi Rob, I love the poly idea on the interior and the benefits of it. I'd prefer to be able to have the ability to inspect in the remote future chance that the exterior water proof treatment fails or has an inadequately waterproofed area. My girlfriend bought a small cape Rome NY built in a hurry, post World War 2. The unvented crawl basement is humid and needs the dirt/rock sealed in the areas it is not dug out...on that, I wouldn't worry about spay and I'd be able to crawl on it as opposed to a 15mil plastic sheet solution. Currently a large dehumidifier can barely keep it at 50% RH. The water table is high and aside from gutters, the cinder block exterior needs water proofing. What are your thoughts on spray polyurethane on the exterior from just under the siding, down to the "footing"? It seems like it would be waterproof and insulating and more durable over years of temperature cycling than the other typical coatings. It seems like like exterior inspection would be less likely to be required as far as accessibility is concerned.
Check out the article that I wrote on ceiling a crawlspace on concordcarpenter.com
@@ConcordCarpenter Thankyou very much!!! I found the article "Venting and Insulating a Crawlspace". Tuff Scrim seems similar to something I found Stego makes called Crawl which is 15mil. But Tuff Scrim's Antimicrobial Poly sounds like a good idea. I love your website's info and layout and will check it out some more! I used to live in Marlborough. My sister is in Westford. Cheers!
Does this all apply for using rigid boards on stone foundations as well?
What about GPS (graphite polystyrene) and the newer phenol insulation boards?
Hi. What type or brand of aluminum foil tape do u use?
Timely, I'm just moving into a house and need to do this! A question: To increase R value you mention building another wall over the ridgid board...would you do this directly on top of the foam board? I don't really want to loose all the space of another wall...but I like the idea of a warmer better insulated space!
Yes, then insulate that wall
This is great, thank you! But what about the concrete slab? If I’m going to finish the basement, how do I handle sealing/insulating/finishing the concrete floor slab? And in what order? Floor first? Walls first? And how to handle if I have a floating slab?
Great point! Id do PT sleepers on the flors first with this in between
How about if the basement has a French drain? Should the boards still be attached to the wall?
I bought an old southern home with a crawl space. It’s poorly insulated and very cold in winter. Can you do a video on the best insulation for a crawl space in a warm damp climate that also experiences some 20 degree temperatures? Does this product work in a crawl space? Thank you
yes read this: www.aconcordcarpenter.com/venting-and-insulating-a-crawlspace.html
I would like to isolate the walls of a small place where it will be to do some chores, a kind of workshop. All around the walls are made of brick and only one wall is made of yellow stone. What I was thinking of doing; -Stick on the wall directly XPS 260x60x3cm and then on top of the XPS OSB boards. What I do not know; -Collage, I know that there is a glue suitable for these cases, type of construction or industrial but safe ?! -The application of OSB, also on top? Do I drill the XPS and also the brick to put the OSB in? How? -Do I need to put frames between? -My biggest doubt is stability. Because later I wanted to hang some cabinets and shelves to put storage and tools!
Lol Rob hey thx for a great informative vid. Had a question about the adhesive used behind the GPS. Curious if any ole PL construction adhesive will do ? I don't want to remove the film that faces the basement concrete side..... was thinking of using like great stuff foam and tucktape....
P.s. I'm up in Toronto.
What state are you located in? Great information. Just built a new home a they sprayed foam closed cell all of the time joists and brought it out flush with the concrete wall. So the foam is about 8 to 10 inches thick as I have a 10 inch poured wall. 9 foot high.
Woodsconsin Woodworking mass
I groom dogs in my basement. I've painted/waterproofed the walls in that area several times. The mineral deposits build up within a couple of months, making it ugly again. I would love to install the foam board in my little area. Can I do just 2 walls?
PSA: Couple of notes: 1. Never cut rigid insulation without a mask on. 2. Do not glue the rigid board directly to the concrete, you will end up with mold. The rigid needs to have a small drainage channel built into the system. Either use furring strips on the wall or if you are made of money buy something like the insofast product that has tiny grooves built-in similar to zip system plywood. I flip houses and have seen this mistake cause mold problems many times, especially with block walls.
Regarding #2, this seems very contrary to preventing vapor movement and against what closed cell manufacturers recommend. PolyISO is the better of the closed cell products and is required to be fastened directly to the concrete per the manufacturer. Now, if the concrete walls are taking on moisture (enough to moisten a piece of 2'x2' plastic tapped to the wall in 24 hours) that is a completely different situation that needs to be delt with before any basement wall insultation work is started. Dry concrete walls (that pass the 2'x2' plastic test should have the closed cell board glued directly to the concrete.
I think the science supports this. Any block home is unlikely to have an exterior vapor barrier making water inevitable. You'll need an air gap to avoid efflorescence.
@@Quik5oh always assume a basement wall will not pass a moisture test. I wouldn't even think about spray foaming to a foundation wall unless I knew it was waterproofed on the outside (and I'd want to know exactly how well it was waterproofed)
Scott Stephen Smith how about if I run dimplebord up the wall before my styrofoam?
How about if I was to run dimple board up the wall first? Then rigid board?
I heard you say the polyiso can go tight to the concrete floor. I just want to ensure there won't be any wicking of water. I understand that John Manfield AP foil faced and R-Max R-Matte Plus 3 sold at the big box stores don't have the fiberglass in them that was creating a moisture problem. Also, what happens if there are air gaps where the board doesn't adhere fully to the poured concrete foundation wall? The polyiso I purchased was warped at the store and there are air gaps. I'm hoping that once the framing goes in front of it, it won't be a problem.
The foil faced board will allow the water/moisture to pernitrate the foam. There will always be gaps in between the boards and the concrete as the concrete is never perfect. This has never been an issue in my 25 years of installing insulation. tape all the seems and keep it as tight as you can.
would this work well in my basement cold room?
is it ok to leave a little gap on the floor, there were some wires there?