Jeep Won't STOP?! One Ton Axle Brake Fix!
2024 ж. 16 Сәу.
34 570 Рет қаралды
Ever since we upgraded our Jeep Wrangler JLUR to one ton axles a few years ago, our braking capability has been an issue. Especially off road, on the trail in 4 low. Finally, though, we may have found a solution...
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"Four Years of Bad Brakes"...sounds like a B movie! Once the booster was changed, those hard stops really lift the weight off the rear axle and tires. Watch for spinouts...or maybe a new game to play! Sounds like a great new adventure on the way to Jeep Beach - Looking forward to it! LiteBriteNationHardBrakes!
You’re mentally stronger than me because I’d be nuts if my high end super Jeep didn’t have proper brakes for so long. Sounds like it was a nightmare scenario and I hope you guys are finally over the hump on fixing it!
The J8 booster made a tremendous difference on my 1ton JKU for stopping
Great jeep content! Makes my day when New videos are posted.
That's a great add on, thanks for sharing the information Kevin!! Great video guys ❤️❤️💯🤙🏼
I think I've seen every video...too cool!!You guys keep making me want more. 12 years hard core Harley club, most positions. Now 68 and got my 2nd jeep. It's a 392...just heard you talk about Florida...I gotta find a schedule. Sounds like a hoot for this Memphis boy..Ha..Happy travels. I'll catch up to y'all before I get old and specially before I grow up.haha
Essentially you increased the output force of the brake pedal for a given input force. So less foot pressure gets more brake pressure than before, relatively speaking. The brakes are the same as before but now you use less foot pressure to get max braking. 🙂
Correct, whereas before, putting your foot to the floor was unfortunately not enough to stop.
Sort of. You have also raised the max available pressure with innthe given ammount of stroke. In setup A you can only get to a max of say 500lbs because you run out of stroke. In setup B you can get to say 750lbs at max and 500lbs is only at 3/4 stroke. This is becaise yu are moving more volume for a given ammount of input.
@@joshuabaker5712 Unless the pushrod through the booster is physically longer in the new booster, a booster isn't adding stroke.
When I built my Jeep I couldn’t come close to affording Dynatrac’s so Superduty’s had to do..f350 brakes combined with 1500 Ram master/booster are spectacular.
Rated makes a truss now for super duty axles that has all the JL axle mounts needed to bolt right up, it sounds like cheaper is the better solution for this!
You can build a SD60 with RCV’s and ARB, Ried’s and truss/brackets for $6K ..rear Sterling for $3k with all good parts . To pay $10K for a store bought axle with shit half ton brakes is crazy ..some people have more money than brains. @@alexmills1329
What year master are you running?
My 79 Ramcharger w/1ton axles assembly. 39s, Big Block. Weight with top off about 5,000lb. Added a booster and proportioning valve off a 1 ton dually. Stopped on a dime.
Auto Parts can be exasperating! I run Kevlar pads on my '16 Ram 1500, with amazing stopping power. My wife's '18 Ram 2500 has very strange brakes. Most the time the brakes work fine. Other times it don't wanna stop!!! I first upgraded to a better semi-metallic pads for some improvement. I did order carbon-ceramic pads. But apparently the issue is the anti -lock brake controller block. Apparently complaining to the Mopar Hotline can get a new anti-lock controller block for no charge. The stronger booster, and better pads are good upgrades. But the JT being fine, should support the idea of the anti-lock system being the root problem. But enjoy your upgrades too!
Wassup gang 👋🏿. Love yalls build 💪🏾
I talked to you in Moab, it was the LF wheel speed sensor 😉Glad you got it figured out.
great job again.
When I did the 60/ 14-bolt swap on my JK, we used the 1-ton Ford/ GM brakes (dual piston calipers all around) with upgraded rotors and pads. I still had a soft pedal and brakes. The 1-ton brakes were massive compared to the stock brakes, but still fit under 17" wheels. Ended up upgrading to the J8 booster/ master cylinder to provide adequate fluid capacity for the larger pistons in the calipers. Brakes worked great after that, even during emergency stopping.
My gladiator with Dana ud60s with the f250 brakes stops on a dime with 40s and 17 inch wheels in high and low. One ton brakes for the win!
Happy you guys found someone who could fix the problems on your Jeep! Just wonder if Matt's Offroad Recovery would know any issues on the rig as well? Knowing how busy they are, these days. Lol
I would have upgraded the master cylinder to a 1ton 4x4 possibly the entire brake system. Good thing you put this out to us! Thanks! I would pull up beside a truck with the 1ton version of your axles and compare the caliper brackets. There should be a bigger bracket for the axle model. Unless it's a Dynatrak knuckle and that's the problem! In that case you'd have to design the bracket for the knuckle and desired caliper.
It’s dyntrac knuckle
My 392 does the slow stop and often slides on the trail without locking up the wheels just like you described. I asked about going to eight lug breaks and was told they would give me that much of a performance advantage for the money. So I still have stock breaks and just keep in mind that my rig isn't going to stop on a dime.
Man that stage coach grill awesome down there thx heads up on Road Runner always breaking stuff Sandhollow
Been runnin ebc dimpled slotted rotors and ebc 6000 series pads for years. Never squeals but definitely dust. Stops great, 2004.5 Cummins.
Changing the proportioning valve on atmospheric side to allow more + positive pressure. Then couple that with a lighter return spring on the vacuum side, generates more hydraulic pressure.
I suppose newer is Not Always better. My 79 dana 60 swap stopped my 46's dead at any speed, and with stock ford calipers and pads and the best thing was 16 inch rims. CHEERS AND SAFE TRAVELS Steve h
Guys look up power brake. They a small south african company but are is in the USA. They could assist, give them a shout. We have a big brake upgrade with new clipers and discs that fit under 17inch rims. They do alot of kits in the Dakar aswell.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
Replacing the rubber brake lines with braided brake lines helped me a ton. The stock rubber brake lines expand under pressure like a baloon.
Has stainless lines
That is a placebo. The brake lines expanding is only an issue on old old lines that need to be replaced anyways.
Regarding the electrical issues, we were group wheeling and had to wait a lot. Once I started up and put in drive quickly and took off. Got an engine light and lost 4 low and got wheel censor codes. Wheels started locking up because the vehicle thought we were in a slide. Cleared codes on the trail and made sure the computer cycled fully then all was fine for the rest of the day.
Can't say many good things about my DStrac axles, but the brakes work great. Stock 2.0 JL booster and master. V8 swap. Locks ups 42s.
I remember my friend's VW brakes failing. He opened the door and dragged his foot until I pulled up on the E Brake. We survived those years barely. Brakes are not over rated. The first automobile did not have brakes, they were an after thought after he crashed on the first test drive.
Please post a follow up after you've wheeled it. I'm in a diesel JL on Fusion 60s and 40s and my brakes have sucked since going to tons. The Fusions use Chevy 2500 calipers which are pretty beefy so it's not a caliper issue. My pedal slowly sinks to the floor when I press it. I can pump it up and that works but who wants to do that? I don't think I need 8 pot calipers. I just need consistent brake pressure in the lines and yes, like you, I've done all kinds of crap to try and get better stopping power. Here's to hoping you've found the solution.
well you were right to wait until you had some answers, we all love a mystery 😂
My 2005+ super duty axles have the factory ford brakes under my JKU and will lock them up on the street or on the rocks in low range. With my atlas rubicrawler my low low transfer case ratio is 7.4:1
They may have changed things but this C and knuckle setup is based around the 99-04 SD stuff and there are wilwood brakes and things out there for it. Also yeah get a master to match the calipers
I’m also blowing through the brakes in 4lo with my hemi jk . I’m also running a J8 booster to go with the teraflex delta brake kit . My dynatrac 44/60 combo has been great but in 4lo , hemi torque , 4:88’s and 37s the brakes have a hard time holding the Jeep back Especially when wet ….
90% of the time when a FRONT wheel speed sensor is showing to be “bad”, it’s actually a worn out unit bearing. For those with unit bearings….
I know you mentioned the master cylinder from the JT "not helping" you could research if it would alter the proportioning from rear to front and give you more front brakes too, otherwise could you add a prop valve to help even them out? Very cool regardless, My JKU wont lock them up and I'm only on 34" tires
Following!!
I kind of just went through the same thing with my 96 Dodge ram truck pyramid Head disc front drum rear it has a V10 it weighs a little over 10,000 lb. I just installed new 2002 Dodge axles 80 front 70 rear I couldn't get it to stop with that either so I ended up putting on the 2002 booster and master cylinder of course I had to change the proportioning valve because it pinned disc disc it will just about throw you out the windshield now I have 17 inch tires on my truck the twin piston calipers that come with that axle. The best pranks I've ever had in any truck. I will be at Jeep Beach. The booster you have on your video looks almost exactly like the one on my truck. But it only costs a little over $100 at O'Reilly's have any questions feel free to get a hold of me I would love to help out if I could hope to see you in Daytona we live right down the road in Ocala national Forest
I would definitely go with hydro boost brakes and go with 2000 dodge 3500 disk brakes as 16" rims fit around the brakes
I would think that AP racing would have something that would work, but as you said might be crazy expensive
Colt builds it just did a video on dash lites. Might check it out. May not be the same
I went through a lot of effort getting good brakes in my YJ with the k30 kingpin 60s and rear discs. Boosters dont do anything except make it easier to push the pedal. The rod directly attached to the pedal that goes into the master cylinder isnt affected any how by it. The usual issues everything not related to the booster, ie. you need to make sure you have proper travel in your pedal for the MC, you need to have a disc/disc MC that pushes enough fluid to fill the calipers for the whole range of motion. Theres not a lot of fluid in the brake system, if you just run a bigger caliper, youre probably gonna run out of fluid, lose pressure, aerate the fluid. You need a proportioning valve that is properly tuned to your set up. When running new lines and hoses, also make sure your lines dont have weird high spots that will perpetually keep bubbles trapt. But ultimately, the brake pressure is made in the master, if you dont have enough pressure or volume, its going to be an MC issue. Im running a 78 grand marquis master with a stock YJ booster, and its got enough flow for 4 1 ton calipers. 1 inline prop valve to the rear, and a tee to the front. A 2lb residual valve can also be a band aid
My first generation Tacoma could use a booster like that. The brakes work but never like they should be. 1995 1/2 Tacoma
I'm extremely thankful for the information. Have a good time and safe travels! Britt posted a good mudding video on Instagram. WTH has gotten into you?
10:31 - Not that kind Kevin. 😆
There's a new park in hollister Mo called Tex plex Fox Creek 1500 acres close to Branson
I have the same issue with stock axles, especially in reverse. I’ve been looking for a solution too without going with a full brake package. 2018 JLUR, 37s, 5:13 gears, truck/ tow pads.
Break booster very important.. but I notice one thing the wheel studs for the lug nuts are Dry put some Grease on the threads so they don't rust if you get a flat on the trail you brake the lug nuts loose if they become rusted you mite not be able to get them off
You want me to put grease on lug nuts when the vehicle spends all its time in sand and dirt?
Why not grease wheel studs lightly n carry a spray can of wd40 or penetrative lubricant but don't get it on your brake disks but I've owned 4x4s for years never had much problem undoing wheel studs dry or lubed just easier lubed it all depends on how studs are fixed to wheel hubs n carry a price of pipe to put over a old wheel wrench or brakes bar n socket combo that fits wheels your running as bags can have counter sunk wheel nuts no tool kits complete with out spray penetrative and a pipe to go over wrenches socket drives n wheel wrenches as who knows what you have to fix in remote areas to get to civilisation
Im sure you can put two brake calibers on to fit the 17 inch wheels
I'm no armchair mechanic but I do have a suggestion for you. Could you not get "blank" brake rotors that fit your application without a designated bolt pattern & machine the pattern you need? Someone does manufacture those rotors so ask them.
I have trouble with my JLUR Diesel 3.73 factory gears and 37,s in 4 low and often shift into N on steep drops. Going to UD 60’s and 40’s whenever I get time to install them.
If you do not have upgraded braided rubber brake lines, you should get some.
Smaller diameter master piston will change the hydraulic ratio and apply more pressure to the larger calliper piston just need to have enough stroke for fluid capacity
Yeah but where do you get one that bolts up to the factory bolt holes?
Have you ever checked how much vacuum pressure you have? A lot of these newer engines have vacuum pumps to fix this exact issue including the vehicles your motor cam in.
Dont honestly know much about brake systems but am curious if 1 tons and larger are when they start using the axel brakes you see on the big mud trucks in florida.
I didn't read all the comments so maybe someone else mentioned this, but I just watched another video where they had a similar issue w/ the pushing thru the brakes in 4 low. They swapped to a higher stall speed torque converter to solve the problem. Not sure that's an option for you guys.
That’s not what’s the problem here at all. Our other jeep with same stall stopped just fine. Just had better calipers and pads
You need to talk to TBM brakes! They could accommodate you!!!
How about hydro boost master? They work great on diesel pickup trucks.
Did you try sprinkling magic fairy dust with unicorn farts on the axles??? Wouldn't that be cheaper than 8 piston calipers???
Ok my thinking tells me if you have more clamping pressure , that would equate to more pressure in the caliper. Now that being said i would surmise that there could be a issue with blowing out the piston “O rings” in the caliper because they may not be able to handle that much pressure . I am curious to see how this works long term ..
Just throwing out ideas... but could you fit Ram 2500 rotors and calipers? They would be 8 lug and should be bigger or maybe dual piston vs single piston. Are there any reasonably priced upgrades?
Talk to motion raceworks, they do breaks for race cars to monster trucks. There rotors are 2 piece.
I can telll you that Baer big brake kit fits 17” KMC Bead locks on Dana 44 5 lug, it did say that you need 18” wheels
Hay Kevin hay there is a block that divides the pressure to the brakes and the rear Brake I'm wondering that could be the problem. Just so you know this is only an Idea 💡 but it couldn't hurt to look into it
Just an idea but most modern vehicles run an auxiliary vacuum pump because modern engines don’t create a lot of vacuum and the booster gets its power from vacuum so just saying….
#litebrite did you look into ssbc for the brake kit.
Same issue on my JL. Any downhill in 4LO it's impossible to stay without popping into neutral.
Teeaflex has that rotor
Ram mega cab with hemi motor has 8 lugs is technically a 1500 and came stock with 17 and 20 inch wheels.
Around 2006 to 2009
Did you ever try a Corvette brake booster?
what knuckle pattern is dynatrac using id you cant adapt other brake calipers/rotors?
It sounds like you need more pistons in your callipers, the pressure on the pistons is set by law!
So here is another idea only maybe you need a bigger ABS block as well.
Maybe you should try solid rotors They are best for stopping drilled rotors are better than slotted for stopping power just something easy to try
It had solid rotors.
Would love to wheel with you some time but my stock 24 willys JT won't keep up
What’s your stall rpm on the torque converter? If it’s driving through the brakes at idle it sounds like the stall is pretty low.
Is this a direct bolt on for a normal 3.6? Looking to do something about my JT and 40’s. Maybe you answered in the video and I missed it.
Yes this is a bolt on for any stock jeep JL or JT
Looks like the rear is on too much. Try a portioning valve and see if it helps a little more
Somebody has probably already said this but why don't you go to a full Dodge 1 ton braking system all the way around convert it they make conversion kits where you can convert it to a complete 1 ton braking system
That's jeep complete the mission 😂but should be more comfortable from inside to be perfect car for every thing and yea all love 💗
Does it always run that hot?
@coltbuildsit has a new how to video out that explains the problem with the wrangler that seems like the problem you've had in the last video or two with the 4wheel drive and ABS/traction control light... I would look into that twister module that he's talking about because that seems like the same problem as you're having with your Jeep... just a thought. Lmk if it helps... anyways just my 2 cents coming from some-what of a mechanic.
@litebrite I honestly think that twister module he's (@coltbuildsit) talking about would be something to look into he bought a twister module off E-Bay for $50... and explains they're usually $450 from a parts store or dealer... but I think that's everything that's going on with your Jeep... for $50-100 just to try it out to see if it works for you seems cheaper than $1300 power booster
Two totally different issues. The brake booster is for inadequate brakes from a one ton upgrade. The 4Lo electronic issue we’ve already fixed (we explain in the next video) and it was not the same issue that Colt was having.
Raise convertor stall or lower idle.
Two sets of caliper per wheel?
Why not install hydroboost brakes? It seems like that would brake better and clear up some space under the hood.
Hydro boost doesn’t play with abs and all the other Nannie’s on the jeep
It might be possible to get the larger 8 lug cut down by a machine shop.
I’m asu I got you have steel braided brake lines?
Yes
OK, stupid question here but why not run one ton breaks on the one ton axle? Is it just because they don’t fit the rims?
NGL some of you old heads were just not taught enough about vehicles, but its okay nice to see you all learn. Comments on points to help you out. JaJaJaJaJa
Nice video… Day 3: us very rare Toyotas want renegade wheels to buy. 6x139.7 (5.5) -12 just Incase I did t mention it before.
Smaller piston master would put more pressure on caliper pistons with less pedal pressure wouldnt it?? Or am I missing something?
No. You are right but who makes a setup to bolt into a JL?
@@LiteBrite That is a good question I would start at an auto parts store that can look up master cylinder piston sizes.
you know as well as the rest of us a torque converter could also solve this kinda issue. ... this motor has a different cam then the demonchild ... you could run a higher stall converter that will sit idle in gear without touching the brakes ...
Except this works and is easy to do and works for people who don’t even have v8 swaps. Swapping a torque converter doesn’t add stopping power at high speeds
true true ... but pushing through the brakes at low speeds it would certainly change things ...
Bingo haha
Have you all considered a stall converter? Why or why not?
Ya but honestly just too much of a pain in the ass to do it
you may be having a timing issue with the tran not kicking fully out
you dont have to get rotors you just need calibers and make a bracket for them
Watching the video I think there is too much brake pressure on the back axle. Front wheels should block before the back wheels do, to keep the vehicle under control. For you it's the opposite right now
It looks like a pass. You do need for safety purposes to replace that broken plastic brake pedal part. Happy Trails to you both.
It would be cheaper to replace the master cylinder unit and booster with one form a ram 3500 than what you spent on that custom booster and get better brake performance🤔🙃
And you think that just bolts right up into place?
@@LiteBrite It should if you also remove the antilock braking system
Hydro boost. I can lock up 40s on my ls cj7 no problem
We have abs and cruise control
Well you said the Demon Child had 8 pistons per wheel why couldn't you get 3 or 4 pistons per wheel. And like always you probably need to check for clearance.
Ram 1500 are 6 lug 😊
Now they are. In 2012 they weren’t
They are drilled to an 8x6.5 lug pattern using the Ram 1500 rotors