Stick Aluminum Together Without a Welder.
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We use similar rods in hvac to braze aluminum coils and we test to 500 psi and the systems run at 350 to 400 psi in the condenser coil and hold gas! Works great the only issue is the flame of the torch tends to pull the oil film inside the coil to the leak so your prep is super important!
Super good information. Thanks for watching 😎
the trick is do not use iron based wire brushes . This welding rod composition is mainly zinc . zinc and aluminum are in the same covalence ring . they love each other . Use stainless steel or solid brass brush to clean the surface thoroughly . Also ONLY aluminum oxide sandpaper .
G'day Mate. I'm a second generation refrigeration and air conditioning mechanic with over 50 years personal experience. I first saw this rod only about 10 years ago and was so curious that I bought some. I paid $75 US for a Kg. I have successfully used it in repairing aluminium condenser pipes on car A/c systems and also the evaporators. It's a product that works....and is compatible with refrigerants.
Good to know thank you
I learned that you need to brush aluminum in one direction, if not you push all that oxide back into the base metal.
I filled some 3/8ths holes in a 28 foot pontoon boat and it worked out great
If You take off the oxide layer at the bottom end of the tube, it will seal with no water leak. I've used this stuff many times, on scratched engine covers for classic bikes. Works like a dream!
Mate can this be used to well a aluminum bearing cap?
It did way better than I thought, was questioning saturation but it works.
Hi from the UK It's good to see that someone who dose weld properly give a positive review of them, they will never replace a proper welded joint on something structural but will have dozens of uses. It's my understanding that they were developed for the air con and refrigeration sector as most industrial units use aluminium heat exchangers and the process is not dissimilar to soldering copper Keep up the good work
This is solder he used correct??
@@irishguy200007this is more akin to brazeing. I believe a brazed joint is stronger than a soldered one by a good bit. But they are both outclassed by proper welding in ever way
You knew what it was all about and it’s good to get the terminology established. MIG, TIG, MMAW , SAW Brazing silver bronze or good old soft solder. Thing is know what you are doing, terminology is important but knowing the limits of all these processes is very important. Thanks for the vid
Great vid, great approach, open minded not only to welding but to except that other methods are also available around. I am soldering for 28+ years now, learning to weld for 3, enjoy both worlds ... :)
I have a small room/shop in my house that's pretty well organized. It looks a little like a hardware store with a workbench against one wall. I have a specific box labeled "specialty tools" that basically are things rarely if ever used or "just in case stuff". I have a pack of these in that box but hadn't tried them. You've given me a head start, thanks.
I have a couple bundles of those around here somewhere.
You should never point the torch directly to the rod. That will only melt the rod while the pieces you're joining will not be sufficiently hot to provide a strong bond.
I highly doubt this kid needs any pointers bud lmfwo
Lol
You should shut up
It seemed to work fine to me!😂
I have had the "Blue Demon" brand in the drawer for about 5 years and has been very handy when needed. I found the rod melts at about 600 degrees and not quite hot enough for best results, so I have used a temp stick since I found this out. Acetone, stainless wire brush then acetone again then flux. I have been very happy for the few times I needed it. Another great video!
What exactly kind of flux you're using?
These rods have flux already in them
Seriously. what brand flux is compatible w/ Aluminum?
@@derrikarenal3308 sorry my blue demon rods don't need flux, my Super Alloy 5 rods came with flux. The Super Alloy 5 are better for radiator and other repairs on older materials.
I used this stuff to build up a boss on an aluminum water outlet that was too thin for the sender and its 1/8npt threads. I added a little under 1/4" of material and it drilled and tapped nice and worked for years without a problem.
I actually fixed a radiator on the side of the road one time with those rods I had in my truck. A guy broke down and had a leaking radiator. I grabbed the torch and a rod and was actually able to stop the leak or at least until he could get it repaired. They definitely have a time and a place.
Good luck with plastic brackets
@@luislongoria6621 yea seriously
I've used that type or rods about 30 years ago and they worked great for what they were used for. We would use them for building up damaged lowers on outboard motors. Loved the video on the welding table build. I picked up the same saw for $40 on market place in my area after seeing the video. That table is HEAVY!!! Thanks for the informative videos.
great tip for fixing my damaged outdrive, thanks!
A friend repaired a VW Beetle gearbox to engine mounting lug. It has only four to carry the whole engine so couldn’t possibly work. Could it? It kept going 10,000 miles before he sold the car. I tried to do a similar job on a motorcycle engine but struggled to get it aligned. Ended getting it TIG welded.
Pretty impressive. I bought some a while back but haven’t tried it yet. Will have to keep it in mind. Thanks for the video!
I did an alumiweld video years ago, love the stuff for the right project. Basically aluminum soldering, but its super strong. I first came accross this stuff in the 80s, somebody was doing a demonstration at a flea market sealing a hole in an aluminum can. Larry
Still waiting to see that one. Probably the #1 most used line for welding aluminum
I made some charge pipes for a turbo car I have. It failed the water test. Small seepage. I did band of jb weld to all the seams. They have been solid for over a year. 14psi
Hell yeah
Great idea with the JB weld!
I'm about to do the same but with a MAP/Temp sensor mount to an aluminum intercooler tube.
These rods need the base metal to be cleaned with a stainless wire brush and a stainless wire pin/scraper to scratch through the molten solder pool helps to deal with the natural oxide layer. By the way, brazing is just a high temperature soldering. This aluminium system is medium temperature.
‘Hit the nail on the head’ with your post. A scratch, along the metal pool will definitely solve his obvious problem of poor contact (the pot leakage, for instance) by giving the metal a chance to then wet the metal along the length of the joint. This is amply/clearly explained by any good info on this type of brazing. Simply put, welding is melting together both the filler and base structure. Soldering/brazing (same but different temperatures) is where only the filler is melted, thus relying on only contact, not mixing together liquid metals. In days of old, I expect soldering was with a soldering iron of some description, whereas brazing was definitely using a flame to heat the item (and filler as it is applied). Since those days, silver soldering (should it have been called ‘brazing’?) was penned as the ‘hard’ solder as opposed to the lower temperature lead/tin ‘soft’ solder.
I always treat brazing welding or soldering with this rule. Clean your surfaces and make sure your filler either rod, wire, or feed is clean too. Also find that applying a thin layer of Flux along the surface of the joint prior to heating helps localize and prevent the oxidation of the surface preventing that solid seam but everyone has their slight differences in way of life
@@luciferhellhound I believe you are right. The Manf. wasn't wrong, it did solder. However if he'd applied some flux I think both would have been leakfree and stronger. I don't know if those rods have antimony in them, but they looked like melted cheese vs flowing solder. Not enough heat?
MAny thanks for the demonstration. I had planned to test the feasibility of soldering aluminium framing for an internal ute (pickup) canopy. You've answered my questions, yes it will hold up for the intended application. Cheers from OZ
39,000 psi tensile strength probably refers to material in the solder/braze deposit, not the solder/braze joint itself. Given the area of the joint, it could still be quite strong. Someone else mentioned carefully cleaning the end of the tube, that is very important for a water or air proof joint. That is particularly important when both sides of the joint are not solder/brazed.
I have a little experience in soldering copper and silver. I was definitely thinking flux and getting the temperature right. For silver I used borax ,for copper standard plumbing flux. Looks pretty strong. I wonder how it would handle boost and also vibration
Hello this was a great useful video, with my lack of experience, I didn’t not know it was possible to weld aluminium so easily like this and not melt the aluminium itself thanks
Excellent, I have an aluminium dingy with a couple of cracks and this looks to be the perfect solution.
Thank you. I just made an aluminum oiling drip can for my drill press with these rods! Works perfectly with no leaks! Flexible oil coolant line from Amazon and my new oil container for the win!
WARNING: Vaporized metals can be very hazardous to your health. Alumaloy does not have an OSHA MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) which required by federal law. take precautions when using any soldering or brazing products.
Hooray! Congratulations on a good build of a good idea! I have been frustrated in the past and had given up this channel because it seemed like rush and haphazard work made good ideas fall short. This one did not disappoint. Good workmanship despite using period blacksmithing and other techniques. Congratulations on a real success and I hope you do find a good stream for testing.
I had my doubts about those aluminum welding rods, but after seeing you use them, I'd definitely try it for light duty aluminum bonding. Thank you.
Aluminum welding/ brazing rods are great if you have a decent temp control welder or torch. In my experiences they act as a great indicator for area heat cause the worst part of Aluminum is the ease with which burn through occurs
I need to repair my toolbox, I'm curious how well this will hold
@amcustomfab @MrAtaripitbull Why only light duty? Why no structural applications?
I love it when you work with Aluminum!
This stuff actually works amazing on case holes in atv and motorcycle engines. I've been using duraweld and alumaweld for years and they work great. Like you said, there is definitely a proper place and time for this type of stuff VS actual welding, but it definitely does a good job if used properly and on the right applications
Thanks for doing this experiment - I will give this a try on some alu box section, I want to build a mono wheel bicycle trailer to haul camping gear and a solar panel but I can't do welding. I will even see if a 'blow torch lighter' will get the joint hot enough so that I could do repairs out on the road if need be.
Looked good to me especially for light duty applications. Thanks!
i did buy some of them to use in filling gutter scratches on my mag wheels !
what I have done for galv steel to aluminum plate is affix a very thin layer of the alum braze to both sides of where you want the weld. Then clamp them together and do same as you did in your video, weld a bead Larger surface of contact, you won't be able to pry them apart with your screwdriver like you did.
Interesting did you tig braze it or just wet it in with the torch? I might have to try that
Works Better then expected😁👍Thanks for the video.🚜💨
The reason the galvanized hanger broke apart is because of the way you applied it. You could see that you melted the rod with the torch instead of properly heating the base metals! But it is a great video thanks.
Don't think so. 9:01 - 02 he does direct the gas at the solder at the start, however the rest of the shot he's quite a ways away or pointing it further down the weld. It didn't hold most likely because it was galvanized and I don't think it actually got the metal hot enough as witnessed by it melting like cheese vs flowing. I think the manf. was honest that it WOULD allow you to solder galvanized, however nowhere did it say it would be as good as removing the galv beforehand...
Thanks for the content. I have had some rods for years never tried to use them. My friend has a boat that needs a small tear repaired. I think I will give it a try. Thanks
I repaired multiple holes on a Jon boat that have held up for years with these. Practice on scrap first.
This is awesome to know im going to be custom making a aluminum heat shield for my harleys exhaust
Having done welding on school , im surprised it sticks well well done
Used on bottom of aluminum boat. Problem was expansion contraction cracked weld every time it cooled. Even sat with heat on it and slowly let it cool then crack. None of the cracks welded water tight and all have hairline cracks left but much better and sticks well to surface.
THANK YOU I NEEDED THIS PRODUCT
It just occurred to me that I may have seen a solution to the "breaking the oxide" issue that you mentioned. On a number of the other videos that I've seen on this process, the procedure was to scratch through the puddle while it was molten and into the base metal with a small sharpened stainless steel rod. I don't know if it impacts what you where speaking to, but it, somehow, it's supposed to make the solder bond better to the base metal. Just thought I'd throw that out there, since I saw it.
Another very good video about this topic is the one from Project Farm entitled: *Best "No Welder" Aluminum Welding Rods? Alumiweld vs Bernzomatic vs Hobart*
Definitely, has a purpose and I'm sure there are many useful real aplications.
It is CHEMESTRY. The rod is a composite that whn heated to melt temp, the "reaction" with soft metal increases temp near two fold (approx.1200 f) The "trick" is to ensure ajoining surfaces are heated equally AND technician breaks the "oxide layering" by using a thin stainless steel wire to penetrate and drag through the molten "formula" (using rod itself does not sufficiently break oxide layer, and tube leaked, plate" delaminated"). This step is imperative. Also - only use stainless steel brushes.
I got some of these their not expensive but haven't got around to having a go with them mite try them see if its easy as it looks
Thank you I've been wondering about that stuff
I've been planning on creating an intake barrier to prevent heat soak on my 1.8T VW Passat. Having the exhaust manifold and engine block to the right side of the intake filter, something needs to be between them much like on the OEM intake box. Was a bit worried about using my flux core as that's a bit overkill for the application risking burn-through.
Great information - thank you. And those are great looking beads.
That was surprisingly high strength. Didn't think it would hold up that well.
don't forget you can try bronze brazing rods. ( takes a lot more heat btw).
Show us your video where you do this. I am super intrigued what with the melting point of bronze.
@@chrisallen2005 I haven't necessarily made a video about it but I could whenever I get the time. The melting point is 1800 degrees I think. So you need a super hot torch or use acetylene torch like I got but you got to turn your temperature way way way way way way way down
Thanks for sharing!
Another good review Alex. I just ordered some of this. Ive gotten so many good tips from you. Please keep t video's coming. Take care. JT
Thanks for the support 😎🙏👊
this is great to make a small carb intake manifold for my bike sweet.
nice this will make a nice easy project to fabricate my step van licence plate holder thank you, Cara
I didn’t know this existed, but have some aluminum parts in the shop that need to be welded. I will remember this for some other applications however.
Good video. I am searching for tutorials on how to weld a broken piece of aluminum alloy bike tube. 7001 aluminum. Many said it wont be strong after heated. Well, after seeing your vid, i think i try that.
Good video, I have been wondering if those rods were any good. I will have to get some to keep around!
How long do these brazed joints tend to last? Will it crack after a few months or years of vibration? Wondering if I use it to make reliable car intake manifolds or intercooler tubing.
Those torches are great but it would be good if they had a n attachment for fine work. The rods are pretty good used them for years.
Haha way back in my misspent youth, I used something like this to solder old lawn chair tubing salvaged from the dump and cut-off aluminum siding pieces to make mufflers for model airplanes. Worked great even after joints were filed smooth.. Never had one fail We didn't have many $$$. Each muffler cost a few cents. Commercial versions were $30.
That's actually surprisingly strong
Great,objective video. Came to your site by accident but glad I did.
Thanks for subscribing 😎
Brilliant video! Really helpful, thanks.
Do you think if I used those rods to weld the outside of a 90 degree joint, would I be able to sand it before painting it?
Try working the rob from the inside diameter, while heating on outside. when working sealed fittings. Ensures flow all the way through the joint.
Flux makes this a whole lot easier. Also, clean clean clean. I have had my rods for 10 plus years and only use them for minor repairs. Honestly an inexpensive AC Tig or Spool Gun Mig is easier to setup and use then dragging these rods out and doing a bunch of prep work.
For once or twice a year use, the $15 torch and some plumbing solder beats a $100-200 Tig. 2-3 min with some sandpaper and acetone/brake cleaner isn't exactly a time sink.
Love this channel great reviews
Can I use it to fill a small whole on a transmission on a Dodge Journey
I want to put a couple brackets on an aluminum radiator to hold up an electric fan. Do you see any issues I may have using this?
Have you soldered copper pipe for plumbing. This looks identical. Flux helps. clean and rough both parts, dab a little flux on, connect the parts, then apply the solder (called "sweating"). If the copper is the right temperature, it will suck up the solder into the joint. If not, it makes globs like when you tried to weld/solder the galvanized hanger to the aluminum plate.
Absolutely awesome video!!!
Very informative.Thanks!
The cheap lamp posts sold in Lowes and Home Depot is the same stuff as cast poles.
Outstanding, I like your presentation, thanks, blessed.
Thanks for the support 🙏
I don't think you maintained the temperature as needed for a good induction of heat to melt the rod equally to the metal. A smaller torch with a pencil point flame would help.
I worked building A/C fittings using oxy acetaline torch . One tip i leard to teach others is . Clean and brush and use brake cleaner to remove any oil residue . Light torch without ox and apply it yo metal . It will leave a black suit color . Now adjust to soft bue color and start heating the metal slowly the black will dissappear idicating the part is hot enough . Next apply the rod and it will run in . Dont stay on the same place to long or you will melt the part . Let cool brush clean . We used a thin rod called AFC 1000 .
I'm gonna try it on my fan belt! 😅
Great video but for everybody, commenting about using flux what type of flux do you use
That stuff looks like it would work on sprint car wings and some modified and late model bodies
Good demo, i was a bit skeptical but it has application. "Go build something" :) just for that i am following your channel.
Thanks for the review; I found it helpful. I can't help but wonder if you might have had better results on the galvanized steel test if you hadn't done it flat on the welding table. The Aluminium coupon test you did was raised off the table but the galvanized steel was right up against it allowing the metal table top to wick away the heat from the pieces you were working on.
RE . . . ."the galvanized steel was right up against it allowing the metal table top to wick away the heat from the pieces you were working on " EXACTLY . . . . except that needs to FURTHER emphasized by the use of two foot high text . . . . . . . ! ! ! I would have used a piece of cement board to rest the work on and possibly some 2X4 scraps underneath that to FULLY be away from that saw table metal mass. Then all of your applied heat is fully retained by the work pieces.
It looked to me like at 9:08 that the aluminium coupon was resting on the table, and the joist hanger was on top of it. Same thing though in the end, the table might have wicked off heat. However he was using MAPP gas, so energy input should have been way higher than any losses. Might be the product is just that way, but it didn't look like it was really flowing as much as barely melting.
Well Done!
Oxy/lpg and scrape the weld area kinda like welding poly pipe fittings
Could a person use this for body work filling holes, automotive?
I think for wheels, would be great for filling scratches and dings.
Interesting! Have you ever done a video on pulse and double pulse mig welding especially on aluminum?
Unfortunately I don't have a machine that wiy pulse mig aluminum yet... 🤞😎One day thanks for watching.👊
Cheers mate!
Nice.. this is going to be great for big 1/6th scale rc rock crawler project --- i had a dream aluminium should be able to be soldered together somehow, i mean why not. youtube and voila --- thaniks for the lessoning!!! You made it look really easy and i'm sure its not -- I do have a couple cans left of MAPP gas but i conserve it like crazy cuz i heard they discouniued selling it --- prolly need tha textra heat to make it solder well. Think of it like this --- Welding -- you are actualy melting ALL THREE PIECES of metal being joined together -- as you said into a cohesive single piece of metal. soldering you are heating and melting a metal and sticking it to two other metal surfaces that remain in tact during the process -- never melting, just getting melted metal stuck to them under high heat circumstances. It should work great in small projects like building trusses for axles in r/c. Cant wait to try!!!
Ima do this to a coil mount on a vanguard thanks man
I don't know if I would trust it on anything super structural
Would you trust it would hold a truck Roll pan ?
Great Video thank you for youre input
I used vixal toilet cleaning (HCL-17%) + PCB (Normal Solder). Work with iron soldering its work and save money
I tried it with a small crack that I have on my aluminum seadoo exhaust, but it did not work. It would just fall right off no matter how hot I got it with mapp gas. I must have done something wrong.
P.S. ... Could you still use it as a table saw, ... Yes it could,. ... But You would probably have to stand to do Your welding, ... Maybe that won't work out for some people, some of the time. Sliding sled ?? .... Just wondering what You can use or set up in the two slots, like a TENON jig,(? ... Keep thinking ...). ... I'm sure You could translate/incorporate the fence for a porpoise too. ... Think of Welding and Wood as a happy couple... With kids that have a resemblance to Their Parents, .... But are Their own person/individual personality and propose. ... Don't forget the baby in the family ... The Miter Gauge. Just thinking.
What grade of Aluminium are you using? Can this method be used on Aluminium that is used to make boats?
ive tried 5 different brands of that stuff and not even once has it worked as well as in this video \
Just ordered to try welding my trailer flooring leaking 😮
Welding electricity is use to produce heat at a point just using gas takes a longer time to reach its why you learn amperage heat and current flow wire speed if the heat isn't equal then the weld is not effective cooling down metals and fillers at the frequencies hope it helps a wider view at Welding for you