How to Prepare an Old Property for Underfloor Heating
Preparing for the water based underfloor heating system - ripping out the Kitchen, excavating 400mm of kitchen floor, laying the concrete slab, building regs and money saving tips.
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0:00 Introduction
0:47 Kitchen Rip Out
1:53 Boarding up Rest of House
5:59 Excavating the Floor
9:03 Building Regs & U Values
13:07 Saving £ with Grab Lorries
13:47 Concrete Slab Laying
16:52 Subscribe to Me!
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- Building Control Guidance Note 24 (renovation/ replacement definitions) bit.ly/3ZKa0Qy
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#underfloor #heating #DIY
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£50 to remove the wrong aggregate seems like an excellent deal to relieve a whole lot of stress.
Really enjoyed this video. There's no ignorance here - you have showed you are aware of the pros/cons of the two approaches on the floor and have explained why your approach is a rational one. As usual, your attention to detail and methodical approach shines through. Hope the concrete slab is drying at a decent pace despite the weather!
The concrete company that I've used in the past mixes the concrete on site. The concrete truck has basically three separate compartments in it, water, cement and aggregate. So you only pay for exactly what you use. And if you ordered too much they just bring it back with them since it is still unmixed.
Volumetric mixers
I wish mine had been one of those - genius! They did put about 160 litres of water in on arrival.
Ahh Trevor Brooks... we learnt the same way, 4 skips in we learnt we could use the grabs to save a fortune. Didn't realise you where in the same part of the world as us. As well you know its all about working with what you have and what your trying to achieve. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Charlie. I'm one of many people who watches and enjoys your videos without necessarily commenting. Your stuff is great -- really accessible and clear and you come across as a very decent guy. I've used loads of your information over the past few years, whether that's my new-found love of cavity fixings or building an MDF cupboard. Good luck with the rest of the project!
Thanks so much Ben - I really appreciate the comment. Totally humbled that you've found my vids useful and that they've helped with your DIY. I probably wouldn't still be doing this were it not for the comments I've received over the years. 👊
Charlie "DIY" Scrote the lost Scrote brother! 😁 If anyone is thinking of putting in underfloor heating then it really needs to be on its own circuit and not share with any radiators. Underfloor takes ages to heat up and then ages to cool down so the timer on/offs will be set differently to the rads. Personally I find underfloor too slow heating up and I do like a nice rad in the kitchen.
Doing a great job mate. Very informative. People are always going to have alternative view points but it's obvious that you're doing your homework and making the decisions right for you. That's all anyone can do.
Hi Charlie 😀thanks for another great video, like many others I have followed all your content and have used many of your tips when completing my own projects.. I recently had wet underfloor heating added to my downstairs during a kitchen extension build. The existing ground floor was concrete so I found a UK company that cut 16 mm channels into the existing floor and new extension floor, then installed the pipe work into the channels. It has worked real well and it runs at 35 c for 2 hours per day. I would highly recommend to anyone thinking of retrofitting UF heating. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Gerry - I currently have oil CH / log burner (with 6kw back boiler). Thats my planned experiment (1/4 way through) - insulate the walls n roof as much as possible, and use cheap overnight electricity (alongside charging my EV) to fill the house with cheap energy to give the place some thermal mass heat to cover the next day.
This video has come at just the right time, we are planning on removing a full height chimney stack and then removing an old suspended floor with a 500mm crawl space in some of the rooms, but eventually will be all of them, we will be running pipe work from the external vents to the rooms that we will be doing last just to keep the airflow to them, 150mm insulation then underfloor heating pipes with 50mm screed. we are also insulating the walls with 50mm PIR and plasterboard,roofing battens and dpc, we are doing it separately as there is a bigger money saving that buyers no insulated plasterboard, using expanding foam on the board edges and then silver foil taping the joints before fixing the plasterboards. 1936 house with a total of 130m2 of suspended floors hence the need to do it all in 3 stages
that's a massive project, i'll enjoy watching this unfold and as always, thanks for making and sharing
You're welcome Darren. Thanks for the comment 👊
Don’t know if anyone else is on my wave length but you have saved LOADS of money using a digger and dumper. The amount it would cost in labour and workers to man handle all of that would cost alot more 👍 also the potential price of the physical toll of this job on your body and all the builders bodies in years to come has been removed 👍 great video as always mate 👍
Thanks mate. Yes it limited the excavation to about 2 days which is remarkable when you consider how many tons were excavated.
Great project. Looking forward to seeing your other videos on this.
Thanks buddy, really appreciate that. 👊
OMG Charlie, I didn't think I could be more impressed by everything you achieve but, wow, what a project. Thanks so much for all your hard work recording it all for us. It really is appreciated though crikey, that's a whole other job on top!
Thanks Marie, I really appreciate that. You're very welcome and thank you for the kind comment. Yes SO MUCH to do and we can't even work out where to put the kitchen right now 🤦
Incredible job, love watching the progress!
Thanks, really appreciate that 👊
well done and great to see the progress..great tips also
Charlie. A really good video with so much to take in and loads of useful tips and info. I had an internal leak summer thro my sitting room ceiling. Mice under the floorboards had licked the condensation on those plastic push pipes and then decided to nibble them as well. Straight thro the pipe they went and a massively and mess carried on for 3 days until I got home..
Oh Nigel, so sorry to hear that - 3 days - that's very bad luck you were away when it happened. That's why we went for copper upstairs. No rodents downstairs with the concrete floors. Didn't stop my plumber using plenty of microbore though off the flow and return pipes for the downstairs rads - because he couldn't be bothered to channel the walls for 15mm. I'm glad to say 4 of those have gone now with the kitchen works. They also used microbore in my daughter's bedroom which I'll be replacing with 15mm copper, probably this week. That'll leave two in the lounge which I can hopefully replace when I pull down the lounge ceiling.
Another great job. I was waiting for this kind of video for quite a while. And it could not get in a better time because I'll be starting my project within couple of weeks. Looking forward for next videos. Thanks
Thanks Grzegorz. I suspect you'll be long finished with yours by the time I am but I'll do what I can to keep the videos coming 👊
Did this last year (entire house though) results were worth the hassle 👌
Well done, we all learn as we go. It will be nice and toasty when you've done. Another great video.
Thanks Patrick 👊
Great video, loving this adventure you're taking us on :)
Thanks Hans 👊
Really informative video full of very honest feedback that will be helpful to all DIYers. Explains why your vids get so many views. Keep 'em coming they are great.....
Thanks Edward. Really appreciate that 👊
Charlie - I’m about to get into my own refurb of a Victorian building . Many lessons learned and tips watching your vids. Thnx a lot !!❤
You're welcome. I'm still researching the insulation. Will hopefully post another video on this shortly.
I LOVE your channel. Inspirational as I'm planning my own renovation. Why didn't you go with the Polypipe solution, you mentioned in your video?
Hi Charlie I think you're doing very well mate I've been watching your videos for a while well done I am learning from your videos thank you
Thanks Omar, really appreciate that. 👊
Looking forward to your next video 😊
Thanks 👊
I had this done 20 yrs ago on a old property throughout the ground floor. It made a tremendous difference in heating and comfort to walk barefoot in the winter months. Also I had a ground source heat pump installed for all the heating and hot water requirements
I wanted to do the whole of the ground floor but my wife wouldn't let me. Said there would be too much disruption. She has got a point but it's a shame. Great work 👏
@@CharlieDIYte We actually moved out into rental for the period of renovation. I would never live in a building site ever again
good video charlie ! ! looks like hard work !
Thanks Mark 👊
Think you’ve done a wonderful job, we did ours the same way, 11 years and no probs
That's great to hear. Thanks Logan 👊
My goodness Charlie, what a lot of work and disruption ! Thanks for taking us on the journey with you though, it's been an education, I'm sure it will all be worthwhile in the end
Thanks Andy 👊
Enjoy your honesty on these jobs Charlie, great work 👍
Thanks John, really appreciate that 👊
Fascinating video, highlighting mistakes made, makes it all the more human & relatable. Can you advise the depth above the concrete base, up to the screed, which has the insulation matting and heating pipes in between. Cheers Robert
This is really interesting Charlie. I built our house in Canberra about 12 years ago with relatively uncommon in-slab hydronic heating - it makes our winters so much more enjoyable than the standard forced air heating. I am intrigued by the far greater complexity of the English floor builds, for which I'm sure there are good reasons. Some differences are: 1. you have many layers of concrete and sub layers. Our layers are: blue-metal dust, sand, termite barrier, moisture barrier, then concrete. 2. the hydronic hose is clipped/wired to the reo in the single concrete layer. The reo sits on plastic 'chairs' - I noticed yours are concrete!! The only difference is that instead of having a 100mm layer of concrete, it is increased to 120mm to accommodate the hydronics. Love your channel.
Thanks Jonathan, that's really interesting. Did you put any insulation in there? Yes it does seem complex doesn't it! But when you see how fragile the PIR is, it makes sense to have a firm concrete slab to lay it on. 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie. Insulation yes, it is compressed XPS polystyrene 50mm boards buried to the level of the blue-metal dust, but only for the 600mm inside the perimeter of the building as a compromise between the -6C winters to the 35C+ summers. I'm intrigued by the very low viscosity concrete and grout layers used in the UK (first seen by me on Grand Designers (of course)) - self-levelling I presume. Our concrete is very much stiffer and laser levels are used.
Glad you mentioned limecrete! Should be the 1st choice for solid walled houses especially if damp is an issue. Let’s hope the DPC doesn’t displace moisture in the walls 🙈 DIY’d a limecrete myself but 300mm GLAPOR, 75mm limecrete topped with UFH and topped the original stone floor. This meet the modern regs. It was actually fairly easy! Should only need Part L exemption if the foundations are shallow.
Wow, what an effort Kieran. Do you know what u value you achieved?
@@CharlieDIYte exactly 0.18w/m2K, mainly because I have a lot of exposed perimeter vs the area covered. If I had rooms similar to yours it would’ve been under the 0.18. I live in a high water table area and the floor has been a game changer for damp. I used to be able to physically see the floor get darker in colour when the water table rose! 🙈 I also used a micro digger and my handle start, 1960’s dumper. Well worth it the cost! Biggest hassle for me was using 2 tiny drum mixers for mixing the lime on site when each mix takes 20 mins. Also, my farmer was grateful for the rubble which he crushes on site and uses around the farm. Might be a good way to save of skips!
Wow some job mate. Enjoy your videos so much. They're real. You always show your mistakes which is brilliant for all of us tolearn from. Maybe stretch the budget just a small bit and buy yourself a new broom, haha or even a new handle. It'll save your back. Best of luck,
Great video
Thanks 👊
We are just about to do this on a more modern 1970's bungalow which we are doubling in size. We are twitchy about the cost of UFH in the old parts of the house but great to see what you are doing.
Thanks, and this luck with your project. There well be more vids on this. 👊
I missed your comments re skips. You can also save money by using larger RoRo skips which are 20/30/40 yds sizes. Obviously more space is required for site location
The casual way you describe complete disasters amuses me. I'd be a nervous wreck if I was you.
Great vid. I’m in a 1900s house and considering underfloor heating. I hope Yours turned out ok.
Thanks Matt 👊
Skips are a rip off. I was lucky enough to have someone point out the benefits of a grab and shift wagon. Saved me loads of money but better than that , I didn't have to load skips, they just take the lot, he even got a brush out to get the last little bits. Great vid Charlie you are hardcore with more grit than Type 1 MOT 😉
Thanks Craig. I probably would have saved the thick end of £800 if I'd started with the grab lorry. 🤦
And skips in turn are a bargain compared to Hippobags.
Great video. I’m looking into underfloor heating, thankfully will be much cheaper and easier as will be part of the newbuild. Probably preaching to the choir but my only comment is to be aware of the moisture, concrete slabs take a months to dry and may exacerbate any damp issues you have already mentioned and take that into consideration when fitting any finished floor. I did however notice a heater/dehumidifier at the end of your video
That's hardly going to anything surely. It needs to be breathable and just doesn't want to do it. So so wrong but hey.
@@smartgorilla define ‘needs’ to be? The whole outside of the house is covered in a non breathable render. A non breathable floor over a dry soil substrate won’t make a jot of difference.
Exactly, thanks Luke 👊
Thanks Barry. It's a good point. Yes as of a couple of days ago I've had the dehumidifier running continuously. 👊
Great video! How long are you having to wait until the underfloor can be used?
Gday Charlie... I came across your site whilst searching on how to prime MDF and your vid on BIN was great. I do have one question you may be able to anser re painting MDF.. VHT make a wrinkle paint that is used on automotive parts, BUT it needs to be heat treated to get the effect... Do you know of any paint suitable for MDF that gives you the same effect
Fantastic!
Thanks 👊
IMO this is THE ultimate test for a marriage If you both survive this you are good for life hehehe. Man what a job. Since you are taking down an old chimney, check for asbestus, you don't want to pulverise that stuff. Cleaning an expanding foam gun when the foam dried out is a hell of job, I know. Done it once, since I am the "go to" guy for my cousins who are pro builders, repairing building equipment like power drills, electric tile saws , you name it, I repair it (by far not my regular job) . I'll bet you checked for all the subsidy there are available for e.g. insolation etc. Last big IT project I had , one of my colleagues was renovating part of her house and she had no clue about any subsidy, so I checked it out for her, gave her some calculations and it ended up saving € 8000.- on building costs. Great video, love to see other people work on my Saturday morning. Keep up the good work, you are doing GREAT !
Thanks. Yes it's a real assault on the senses this project. I've set up a temporary kitchen in the hall and plumbed in the appliances in our porch - won't be doing a video on that as there are a few radial circuits I've rewired for that. But the point is we've achieved a kind of normality. I did want to underfloor heat the whole of the downstairs but my wife vetoed that on the basis there would be too much disruption. Problem right now is were can't work out how to configure the space/ where to put the kitchen 🤦 I'm also not sure I want to avoid putting underfloor heating under the units as if we ever reconfigure the kitchen in the future the underfloor pipes will be in the wrong place. Good point about the subsidies. Not sure we qualify for any over here right now, but I'll check.
@@CharlieDIYte Not sure we qualify for any over here right --- that's what she was thinking too hehehe Some tips for approaching : First check out local subsidy (town) then area (county/province) then National (England and GB) Here we had a period where we got a discount on material for insolation materials like rockwool etc. (direct at the DYI shops) but those days are over. But for my colleague there was a tax deduction on labor !!!! for improving isolation of her house. Instead of 21% VAT she only had to 6% VAT over that part of labor. You have arrange this with your contractors (but since you are doing most of it yourself you have that to figure out yourself) . But keep it real , those tax guys are not complete stupid. Success
Massive undertaking Charlie...I'm sure it has taken an incredible amount of planning and an understanding spouse to live through this renovation
Thanks Gary. Yes, I wanted to excavate the whole ground floor but my wife vetoed it on the basis it would be too much disruption. I've set up a temporary kitchen in our hall and plumbed in all the appliances so we're managing pretty well. 👊
COMMENT: Nice build and video, with some interesting ideas; keep them coming, thanks.....
Really enjoyed this one, how does your family cope with such major works whilst presumably still in the house?
Thanks. I've installed a temporary kitchen in our hall and plumbed the appliances into the porch so we have an element of normality.
Hi Charlie, Love your video and Reno . We are thinking a lot about uFH in this house we are purchasing. Scarey having to dig down deal. Can’t we go over the floor we have ?? . X
It's my next vid Jennifer! There are some pretty good over floor systems. You don't get the thermal massing you do with the underfloor insulated screed type system we're installing, but I suspect it's better than rads. I'll try and do a bit of research on this for the vid. 👊
Wow Charlie. You deserved a rest after the garage roof. That’s some project!! Was just waiting for the shot of your wife’s face as she returned home from a few days away after you’d told her you were just going to re-seal the splashbacks. 🤣
Thanks Rod 👊 I've built a pretty good temporary setup but ironically I got a bit of stick from her because she's worried that the sophistication of the temporary kitchen shows just how long we're going to be out of the new one. 😉
@@CharlieDIYte Better not ask what colour she wants the curtains in the temp then. 😨
Great video. Sorry to see the kitchen go though as it was the inspiration for painting my own kitchen with the Railings colour 😂
Thanks Gary. Yes I was rather gutted. It was looking a bit tried again but to rip out an all pine, dove tail jointed kitchen, to replace it with an MDF version is quite hard to get your head around. What paint did you use? I wasn't a big big fan of the Valspar.
@@CharlieDIYte that’s true, but I’m sure the new kitchen will look great too. I used the F&B interior eggshell. It does chip a bit but as you called out in your video on it, there’s no real sign of flashing when touching up with that colour which is great
Great video and informative Charlie. A question I have (as I'm considering this myself in a few months time) as the DPC is tucked up against the inside of your walls, are you not now providing a pathway for any groundwater present underneath that slab to be pushed up alongside your walls now where capillary action could do it's worst?
Thanks Chris. I think you need to look at this as part of a comprehensive damp and insulation strategy. I'll be battening the walls then insulating in between with 25mm PIR, foil taping over the battens and then screwing insulated plasterboard to the battens effectively giving me two vapour barriers. I don't think the damp will rise much higher than the slab but to the extent it does there'll be nowhere for it to go. Compare that against what I've currently got - where the builders back in 2010 dot and dabbed standard Plasterboard to the walls creating a breeding ground for damp behind the board - as you'll see in this weekend's video.
@@CharlieDIYte Great reply Charlie - appreciate that. I'll be watching your video update before I discuss what's best with our builders. Our room isn't as big as yours and losing 25mm for insulation and 12.5mm for plasterboard would be a noticeable dimension change for the area. We're currently a suspended timber floor, but it's more like a springboard in places - it has many issues and now we're extending, I had considered replacing it all with a slab to match the new part of the building. I agree with your double vapour barrier idea though - really is a belt and braces approach.
I wanna do my full house. with around 100mm insulation, problem thats confused me is the kitchen seems solid concrete and the rest is suspended floor. would i be able to raise the floor to the same level (heating pipes and screed included) as the suspended timber floor as i believe the suspended timber floor is above the damp proof course. all the floors are the same level so if the suspended floor is above the damp proof course then surely the concrete floor is?
Another great video. Planning on doing pretty much exactly the same in our 1930s bungalow in West Wales which currently has zero insulation. I’m dreading the disruption😩
Same here - but I've been advised to leave the solid floors as is, as it gives the house structure some thermal mass (especially with internal wall insulation as charlie has already done) - which helps maintain an even temperature?
It'll be worth it. I'll be doing a video on the wall insulation too. 👊
How will that work with your floor levels when you add the insulation, or were you installing a low profile system?
👍👍👍Thank you
Thanks Pete 👊
I saw another video (it may have been skill builder) that said that the current practice of offsetting one thermal element against another won't be allowed under the future regulations when they come into effect. It means that the current architectural trend of huge windows everywhere being offset by really thick floor and ceiling insulation will come to an end.
It will always exists because everything is tied to performance. They are fleshing out more detail around actual solar gains but these can easily be rectified with oversails or other techniques. It's all moot anyway in the UK because we couldn't build domestic properties well if we tried.
Thanks John - I suspect @Swwils is right though. 👊 That said, architects who design these massive glass gable ends are complete muppets - particularly in bedrooms where they leave the customer with a window that's well nigh impossible to curtain.
How long of period do you estimate before you see a payback in the increased efficiency?
Get a good look the house foundations charlie? I found myself certainly a good couple of inches below 🤣 fun times!
It doesn't matter if temporarily you are below the footing base as long as you bring back floor level to what it was before. Problems and underpinning are only needed when there is a permanent drop in level.
Thanks John. On the south side we've got insane foundations as the house was I suspect built on an earlier stone cottage's footings that go down a good 800mm. On the north which is a later extension, I suspect we were pretty close.
Thanks Joe 😉👊
Ive never had to clean a foam gun, i just keep puttin can after can in it,thats untill i ive loose it 😂
Maybe I was unlucky with the last one.
I rate ya Charlie
We had the limecreete floor in our kitchen but the building control insisted on a radon barrier and our builder hated the system. Mixing the lime by hand was seriously hard work.
I bet it was, Paul. And one of the issues is it's very hard to get the limecrete to totally encapsulate the pipes which in turn makes the system less efficient. Thanks for the feedback. How are you finding it?
@@CharlieDIYte they poured the limecrete directly onto the pipes so you get a very large thermal mass exactly as the Tÿ-Mawr system. It a vast improvement on the 1 inch of concrete we had before. I am sure you will find the same. If I did it again I would do exactly what you are planning but it’s a listed building so it helped get the consent for a very modern extension.
The idea with limecrete is the whole floor will breathe, rather than all the underground floor moisture getting sucked up the walls. If your ground is dry, I think the risk you have take. Is minimal. Where I am the internal floor is fairly moist. These buildings are all about moisture movement. I’ll be installing an HVAC that will keep things fresh.
I agree. Having an overarching vapour strategy is crucial in any property but particularly this one. I'm thinking I'll probably install a breathable wall insulation. The problem with glapor insulation is it's a nightmare to clip the pipes to and the limecrete screed doesn't properly encapsulate the pipes meaning the UFH isn't completely efficient but I hear what you say.
@@CharlieDIYte thank you so much for sharing you super videos and journey! Interesting what you have said about limecrete ufh as I guess it’s not as mature as some of the very clever tech like anhydrite screeds that are super for thermals. It’s a real can of worms and juggling act for me building fabric (Norman tower and old medieval church) vs cheaper and more efficient modern materials. In some places it does not matter but others it is very delicate, I think you have taken the right route and balance!
Great channel, working my way through your channel. Unfortunately it looks way too much hard work for me.
I am thinking of installing underfloor heating in my home as part of possible boiler upgrade from oil to Air Source Heat Pump. The house currently has a solid concrete floor (reasonably flat but with rough finish) but with a strange 200mm suspended floor where the heating pipes live. This space is not ventilated. I am wondering if I can just installed 150mm insulation and then 50mm screed with pipes on top on the current concrete base which must have a DPM in it ?
Are the existing heating pipes for downstairs radiators that you'll be removing? You'll not want those pipes to be in the new screed that contains the under floor heating pipes.
@@CharlieDIYte Yes my plan was to rip up the suspended floor so I have a depth of 200mm to play with. Remove all existing copper pipes and put down 100mm insulation with 50mm screed on top with pipes in. Wondering if i would need a vapour barrier below the insulation? Great channel by the way
I have a house built in the 90s, which is screed over a concrete base layer. However, from the hollowish sound from walking on the kitchen floor, I suspect it uses reinforced concrete beams, not a solid floor. I am considering putting in underfloor heating, at least downstairs, as the rads are far too small for the existing system, let alone the lower temperatures of any future heat pump. Digging out a solid concrete floor or, worse ta reinforced concrete beam floor is a non-starter. I'd thus have to fit within the depth of the existing screed, maybe marginally raised a bit. I assume I only need to meet the lower of the two insulation standards. However, digging out several tons of screed doesn't fill me with joy. Now I just have to find what sort of floor I have, and how deep the screed is. I'm hoping the water pipes and sink waste in the cloakroom is buried in the screed, as I also plan some wall alignment changes (stud in that case, although most downstairs are block). I assume drilling in a sacrificial area will reveal the depth of the screed, heaven knows how you work out if it's suspended reinforced concrete beams below.
That Mac pneumatic breaker is a Ferrex Aldi bodger priced at 75 squids
It most probably is. Decent bit of kit though.
Good luck Charlie, it might be best not totalling all those costs - it's going to be a big bill!
I know! Keeping a running total though as I'm usually a bit chaotic recording what I'm spending on these jobs. Thanks 👊
U-value offset is no longer a thing or it will be scrapped soon. Fantastic videos!
Thanks Christian, good info 👊
Do your groundworks efficiently and to a top spec and you wouldn't have to cover half the problems 👍
I'm surprised at the 100mm concrete base slab, isn't that how thick a driveway slab is laid? Seems like overkill to me if necessary at all?
Ref foam gun: I have a metal one and never clean it between uses, just leave the can on and ready to go again months later. I only clean the outside when changing cans
From the few seconds we saw of the underfloor heating drawing it looks as though the pipe work is spaced at 200mm centres and has some quite large areas where the pipework is not effectively covering the heated parts of the floor meaning there will be cold spots. Without knowing the U-Values of the walls it’s not good practice to just assume this will adequately heat the room should the walls be poorly insulated or be below current building regs. Having worked in the underfloor heating industry for over 16 years now I would always recommend the pipes are spaced closer together and the UFH systems delta t is reduced to somewhere between 5-8 degrees c. That way you will gain a higher heat output at a lower flow temperature, the system will be more efficient and future proofed should the heat source ever be changed to a heat pump. Another thing worth potentially considering is ensuring pipe work is also placed under the kitchen units and island. That way you’re future proofing the house for any changes to the kitchen layout in the future. The last thing you want is huge cold spots should the island be removed 10 years down the line. Should you be worried about heat getting into the units you can push loft type insulation behind the plinths which will help to dissipate most of the heat that could pass into the units
READ THIS Charlie you want 100mm centers, 150mm at an absolute maximum.
Can't thank you enough for this post. You're absolutely right. The Polypipe quote specifies 200mm centres and as you say, there are some large gaps and I have the added complication that we can't agree where to put the new kitchen right now, so I'm concerned about excluding all areas under units to then decide in 5 years time we want to reconfigure the space, so what you say about doing the whole floor is gold dust! Really appreciate your input. DM me on charliediyte@gmail.com if you'd like access to our Discord forum as we'd all value your expertise on this subject. 👊
Yes grab lorry are a lot cheaper but they generally only take rubble, soil and stone they don’t want all the other junk
That's a very good point Liam. We were discussing that in the pub tonight 👊
What is the reason for going with the insulation above the concrete slab and not below it. so you could have placed the heating pipes strait in slab. and had the possibility of having a big thermal buffer.
He has laid mot 1, then slab, then insulation, then pipes in 50mm of screed so the pipes will be in an insulated mass of screed 50mm thick acting as a massive thermal slab. Pretty standard no?
@@utensil999 Yes but if you do the insulation between the Mot 1 and Slab you save the 50mmm of screed and just have the pipes straight in the slab on top of the rebar. but it sounds like it's the norm in the UK to do it like you say.
@@fromaflafl2198 Insulation will not sit flat on MOT1
@@fromaflafl2198 I’ve just done exactly the same. Mot sand membrane 100 mm concrete 150 celotex membrane UFH. 100 mm concrete slab polished. Building regs requirements🤷🏼🤷🏼🤷🏼🤷🏼££££££££££
Yeah pretty standard in UK. Maybe having 100mm insulated slab would take too long to heat up 50mm probably a nice compromise between retained heat and instant warm up. Cheer matt
Erbauer good 👍🏼
Yep 👌
I think offsetting the U value of one part to another would only apply to new builds. It’s called a SAP calculation.
Pretty sure it's still relevant to renovations where building regs apply but I might be wrong. Bottom line it's always useful to try and stay within building regs even when they don't fully apply. That way you know you're doing things properly 👍
Where are you based Charlie? I use Trevor Brooke for my grab work.
Between him and Stourport. The company who delivered the planings got him to pick it up and charged me £50. 👊
Bloody hell pal you don't do things by half. Be lovely when it's finished 🤪🤪
Thanks buddy. I know, and right now we can't decide on the design of the next stage - specifically where to put the kitchen 🤦🤣
😎
👊
You are very brave but we'll done
Thanks Tahir - brave or just stupid 🤦😉
Spending all that money and you can't afford a brush handle? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Great job. Retro fitting always a nightmare as I know too well.
It broke. Or rather it was the builder's so he's probably repaired it a million times like Trigger's Broom 🤣
Jeez. You have no fear.
Yay, another one who is unsure about push fit lol
This is not best practice. The insulation is meant to go above the free draining granular pad but beneath the DPM. The concrete goes above this, with the embedded hydronics. This isn't the place to go into a lot of detail. DM me if you want to know why, I'll bother to find the references so this isn't the usual reply guy comment.
With the price of concrete why did you not check and double check the quantity? 2m3 is a lot of waste.
He could of got one of those onsite mixer lorrys, so no waiste pay for what u mix kinda thing
Thats callled real life
Yeah can't anticipate every eventuality or mistake. We are only human. Like his honestly hopefully we will now triple measure and calculate
It was a case of rabbit in the headlights. Builder "we need to get this done asap." Me "how much do we need" whilst I was rushing round. Builder "6m³ will do it, based on, what have we got, about 48m²?". And that was about it. Entirely my fault but I generally only make the same mistake once, but first time round I'm good at blundering into it, particularly when pressurised by others rather than doing stuff on my own.
Thanks for sharing. I’m surprised you put concrete below the insulation. If you compact the aggregate, top with sand for a smooth surface then add a damp proof membrane followed by insulation and UFH in a screed, would that not have been enough? (Not expert advice)
Not sure why you do it this way Mark but common sense would suggest it's so you're laying the PIR (which is itself a slightly fragile material) on a firm base that won't be prone to any movement/ slumping.
It can get alot more complex and the screed ontop provides a good chunk of thermal mass.
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 CRACK ON chas ♣️♣️♣️
Thanks buddy 👊
5:25 - Inserts for pushfit fittings for h&c water (rather than central heating) are a complete (and very cynical) waste if time and money. In the 25 years i’ve been using them (mainly JG Speedfit) i have * never* had one fail (except when i didn’t insert the pipe far enough in the fist place). Charging what they do for a piddly bit of plastic is ridiculous. Also, you are supposed to screw the locking collars the other way to ‘lock’ the joints. The way you have screwed them (with the threaded collars tight to the body of the fitting). leaves them ‘unlocked’.
Is it really worth it? - my EPC calculation - tells me that I'll save £50 / year? for insulated solid floors
Pay back will be many years admittedly. I'm trying to create a space that's nice to live in rather than being an ice bucket.
@@CharlieDIYte I know how you feel! - grade F cottage here! (although Kero 28 is down to 64p today!! - thank god!)
😮😮ooh. Aus energetischer Sicht baut man keine Fussbodenheizung ein. Es sei denn man saniert das ganze Gebäude.
Perhaps it is a mistake to carry out this particular renovation. By insulating the floor, you are losing the cooling effect in summer. This is definitely not the way specialists of old buildings suggest in France. In addition, it entails a large carbon footprint…
Definitely not a mistake in the UK 🤣🤣
Strongly disagree. It rarely gets uncomfortably hot inside in the UK, whereas it gets uncomfortably cold all the time for over half the year. Crazy idea to want to lose precious heat into the ground in winter.
Actually thats what I've been told in the UK - its good to have some thermal mass
@@EverydayLife621 he's got 50mm of a dense screed. It's alot of thermal mass.
Exactly. The difference between the cooling effect with the new sub structure and the old will be negligible - it may even be better.