Bambu P1S 3D Printer VS My Old Creality CR10 - I've Been Missing Out!
2024 ж. 26 Нау.
5 141 Рет қаралды
A video sharing with you guys my newest addition to my 3D printers which is the Bambu P1S with AMS and my overall opinion. I hope you guys enjoy the video!
I felt the exact same way after getting my Bambu A1 mini. The difference in quality between my CR-10, CR6-SE and the A1 mini is like night and day; my first thought was "Creality never again". The amount of time I wasted because of the Creality printers and the amount of money I spent on upgrades...I don't even want to think about it. The next Bambu I'm planning on getting will either be the P1S or the X1C.
I heard they are planning to do a MAX size so it made it hard for me to want to go ahead and buy the P1S...versus waiting. BUT I couldn't wait to get started with printing so I grabbed the A1 mini. It's a dream! I might want to grab a couple A1 machines when they come back on sale or snag a P1S because of the enclosure and faster acceleration! I'm spoiled with options haha
10 hours?!? Wowza! Color me impressed.
I know its nuts!
I went to the dark side also. I have owned and own a XMAX, XMAX 3 and XSmart 3 and bought a A1 MINI this week and let me say that my experience was the same as yours. Opening the package alone felt like a Apple product, so much thought has gone into everything it is truly impressive. I will be buying A1 when available next month. I actually had a Q1 in my hands and never even tried it as it felt so rushed to market. At the end of the day the Bambu works SO WELL,
I started 3D printing with a CR10 roughly five years ago. The printer was okay but I was always having to adjust things on the printer pretty often. I sold the printer and I took a break from 3D printing for a couple of years. One of my buddies recently bought an X1C and he sent me some pictures. I didn't know that printer and the company Bambu Labs existed. Let's just say I bought an X1C two days afterwards. I've had my X1C for almost two weeks and it's been awesome. When they say the X1C is like the iPhone of 3D printers they really mean it. The printer just works straight out of the box and it works perfect. Oh, and its crazy fast at the same time.
I see you've knocked out the updated helmet. So much more definition on the recessed band top 😊
Yes sir it's so much better! And prints like a beauty in the new Bambu. Appreciate you sir!
I'm kind of feeling that black color. So cool. How about a RoboCop 3 with all His upgrade attachments? Awesome video Chris 😊
Thanks sir! To be honest I'm not really a fan of Robocop 3 so I don't picture myself making any of the props from the movie. I do appreciate the creativity of the props they used in the movie though.
If you used variable layer height to lower the height of the top layers, you'd get a much nicer finish on the top, with very little increase in print time.
Since your doing lots of cosplay, what material do you mostly use for cosplays? I'm looking into buying a printer, and it will be either the P1S or the Prusa Mk4 (also an incredible printer, and since I'm in EU, I won't have to pay import fees and all). It seemed like I had to go with a printer that can make ABS/ASA, but in the end, it seems most cosplayer still work with PLA or PETG. I was under the impression than both of those had some risks with how hot it can get in a car or in a plane during summer.
Most cosplayers including myself use PLA+ which is a tad more stronger and heat resistant then your standard PLA but that grossly depends on what brand you use. I use SunLU PLA+ which isn't crazy heat resistant but better than your standard PLA. PETG is also an option that some cosplayers use for even better heat resistance. But generally most of use PLA+ because it's hassle free and prints super easily! My whole Robocop suit is printed in PLA+ but yeah you definitely don't want the suit sitting and baking in a hot car for hours at a time. But for indoor use and comic cons...PLA+ or PETG are your best options! ABS and ASA are far too complicated of a material to print with if you plan on doing large cosplay,....I really wouldn't mess with those particular materials for anything cosplay related, maybe for smaller parts but printing a whole suit in ASA/ABS your definitely in for a lot of problems.
My cr10 v2 is tuned nice, but im looking for upgrading to bambu mostly because of the time savings. 20 hours on my cr10 and 5 on a bambu is a giant upgrade.
Try playing with your seam settings. Also, something I haven't tried yet, is trying scarf seams in orca
Yeah I'll have to mess around with it a bit, thanks for the comment!
@@ChrisBoshProps No problem. I just got my first p1s a week or so ago and it's been life changing for me. Coming from a fleet of constantly broken ender 3s, I just didn't want to print anymore. The repairs, breakdowns, and failed prints drove me nuts. But the p1s has been revolutionary. It just works, and works, and keeps on working. I'm never looking back
@@trent9629 I've heard a bit about the scarf seams... what are those supposed to do?
@@chrisboerma7585 not sure how they work but I've seen some pictures on forums and reddit and they make seams look better than I've ever seen before. KZhead has videos on them as well. I still haven't gotten around to trying them out yet. need to download orca
You have an Etsy? I gotta check that out.
The FBT (FanBoyTrap) is a very real thing, and not just in the 3D printer world. The only printer I've owned is a Bambu and I love it. But I have to check myself all the time because my first instinct when I see a new product is to trying to figure out why it's not as good as my printer. The truth of the matter is that there surely are printers that do better than my printer at some thing. But this doesn't mean my printer is the right printer for me. Instead of trying to figure out how that new machine might not be better, I should look at which printer is better for how I print and for what I print. So far my printer is still the best for my needs, but that doesn't mean it's the best for everyone's needs. So, instead of saying my printer is the best when talking with others, I explain why it's the best for what I do, while also pointing out that a different machine might be better for a different use. This is how I try to avoid the FBT.
The bed on the bambu is 256mm x256 x 256 is that right so is that helmet in parts?
Yes sir the bed is 256mm cubed. The helmet including chinguard and back piece is in 4 parts but that's the way the original designer modeled it. Each individual helmet part will fully fit on the Bambu P1S bed for printing without an issue.
I don’t know if I want this or make a Voron. This is easy though. I just like open everything. It’s a tough one.
Don't know much about Voron but I can assure you that you will not be disappointed with a Bambu.
I got both; and honestly it really depends on what you wanna do: Do you want finished prints without having to worry about anything ? get a bambu first. You like to tinker and build a printer, continually mod it at the risk of having it broken down for a week or two ? Get a voron, but I wouldn’t advise it if you haven’t already built a prusa or any other printer, it’s still quite the challenge not only to build it, but do every step with precision in order to get the best printer. Quality wise, I’d say the bambu is on top because of the cooling, and it’s still faster if you don’t want to mod your voron a lot to get to those accelerations and speeds.
Robocable vibes! New suit??
Haha not at the moment but maybe a new suit in the future.
The print quality is so nice but man the price point difference is steep 😲
A1 or A1 mini is the starter point if the mid range ones is too expensive
I have the Elegoo 4 max and it's good. It's very good....but it's not the Bambu.
Yeah I have the Neptune 3 max but like you said although it's a great printer and will do what you need it to do it's just not quite a Bambu printer.
Yea but the build volume is much, much greater if you need it and the price is much lower.
@@johnhodson8619 Yeah I agree but that's about all the Neptune Max has going for it is size and it's really only a 100-200 difference between the Bambu P1P and P1S to The Neptune 4 Max. Quality and speed go to the Bambu.
@johnhodson8619 I rarely use the bed volume, as I don't trust it enough usually to fill the bed with multiple pieces. The size is nice though when you need it.
On the Neptune Max you only Need to warm up the bed 20min before you Level it, i done in the start Code, and now it Prints perfekt First Layer
comparing these two printer is crazy lol 700$ to a 2016 printer lmao
Glad it entertained you!
Sorry but i think you have to tune your slicer Setting, Even a cr can Print any better then this. And newer Creality or any other Printer now Prints any better then an old cr that use old 8bit Board. Bambu is okay, but they are Not reinvent the printing.😊
I agree the quality can print slightly better at lower speed but it's no way comparable to the speed and quality of the Bambu. Why print something for 4 days when you can print it 1 day on a Bambu with better quality? And I love my Creality machines saying this.
@@ChrisBoshProps its not only the Speed, the cr thing Looks Like Bad z Hop / z Seam settings to me
@@iracG5 Definitely no bad Z Hop my Creality CR10's print perfectly for what they are capable of and I've never had any issues since 2017. There just simply put not as good as a Bambu. 🙂
i am in no way satisfied by creality. i got a CR10 two years ago. its been nothing but a money pit, time pit, and jsut a god awful - totaly terrible - bearly fucking usable printer.... just garbage. i just bought a ender 3 s1; figuring i had enough experience dicking with 3d printers now to make it work. its a much better printer but still has WAY too much fiddly user input bull shit to make sense for anyone beyond a tinkering hobbyist. that is the worst part about 3D printers imo - until very recently with the bamboo and such, there is not a truly refined printer that you can use with confidence. 90% of whats out there requires so much fiddle fucking to get working that its not worth buying. its more cost effective to just pay some 3rd party to print/mill your 3d models than it is to spend your own time working with. i plan to buy a Qidi printer in the near future and see how those work. they are marketed at competition with bamboo for FAR less money so im excited to see. either way with how poor creality's pritners have been for me - i wont buy an expensive one again
Wait until that Bambu starts having extrusion problems through the AMS.....You will see all the hype. I WISH I would have went with something else rather than throwing away $1050 on Bambu because I listened to the hype boys
Oh I had the problem but bambu is still better than any printer I bought before
How long should i wait until i see the ams problem? I been 6 months in printing strong :(
@@cheizaguirre5494 So how do you like that spool hop from the AMS when a spool gets low? Or the constant back and forth retraction.....PLEASE lie and say you dont have those issues that are 100% part of the AMS experience. I dont know why you fan boys cant just admit that theres NOTHING SPECIAL about Bambu printers. I own one and admit it
@@anthonylong5870 I've never had any spool hop, but I know that others have. I tend to mostly use Bambu Filament though so maybe it's much more prevalent in non-Bambu sized spools? (1.5 year owner, medium (??) level of printing.) What's the back and forth retraction? I think the fact that so many people have called the Bambu Machines a shake up of the 3D printer world is a good indication that Bambu Printers are special... at least to an extent. They aren't without their faults, they aren't the best printer ever. They certainly aren't the best printer for every job out there. But I think there was enough about them that was special (certainly when they first came out) that they had a huge impact on the 3D printing world.
AMS tricks to avoid problems. 1: Don't use silk filament. Some brands make more dust that jam the second stage extruder. 2: inspect bowden tube often if printing with abrasive filaments. 3: avoid cardboard spools or print rings for them. 4:add some wight inside the spool. Print Tpu insert that will hold some wight and squeeze them inside the spool. 5: make sure the spool are correctly placed on the rools. 6: use a top glass riser and a longer bowden that goes to the head. This way, the bend to urge head extruder will be smoother and the filament will go easier. Enjoy