5 CLEVER Electrical Tricks Everyone Should Know
Here are 5 clever electrical tips, tricks and hacks that everyone should know! See if there are any here that are new to you! #homehacks #electrical #tipsandtricks
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• 75 Pc UL Listed Wago 221 Lever Nuts: geni.us/J7R1D
• 81 Pc Lever Nut Kit: geni.us/el6r
• 141 pc Lever Wire Nut Connector Kit: geni.us/52Bd
• Heat Shrink Tubing Kit: geni.us/YqN9azW
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• Replacement 2 Prong Plug: geni.us/dcF2bmu
• Heavy Duty 3 Prong Plug Replacement: geni.us/ZYXsQ
• 250 PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connectors: geni.us/ZNeQBs
• Vise-Grip Universal Wire Stripper: geni.us/MMoEuJ
• Generic Universal Wire Strippers that seem nicer than the Vise-Grips: geni.us/dbXL8
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00:00 #5: Ditch the Twist Connectors
01:43 #4: A Strong Fix for Cut Wire
02:57 #3: Don't Toss That Broken Cord
05:03 #2: Always Work With the Grain
07:24 #1: The New Wire Strippers Are Here
I am 71 and have been a master electrician/electrical engineer for over 50 years. Your knot method without solder or mecanacal compression is falted. It is for a temporary repair only. The natural operation of the wire will by current flow heating the wire which causes expansion and natural cooling the return to original size, eventually cause a the knot to loosen and eventually start arching over time. Use a Western Union splice and solder the thing before the heatshrink. Save the square knot for rope.
I was thinking the same thing and western unions work great.
This guy is a hack
I think the key is to solder it too to avoid arcing inside the knot. Electricity only flows on the outside surfaces.
@@toriless DC Electricity flows through the entire conductor. You are thinking of skin effect, which occurs with AC, and is really a notable phenomenon in higher frequencies. Skin effect is not a problem with sixty hertz home power wiring.
Agreed. As a ready to retire electrician and electrical instructor, I would lay awake at night worrying about that connection.
Love how he says to not use traditional wire strippers, but every demonstration is made using them.
I was thinking about that too, but pretty sure it was to not giveaway the tool before the end.
Yeah, I noticed that too. Those types of auto strippers are fine and dandy for some things, but I've found teflon insulated wires are hard for them to grip and they often gouge the insulation bad.
I wouldn't replace a plug except maybe on an extension cord but electronics and appliances get new cords. Can't think of why I would splice a wire like that.
Uses what he telling us Not to use. 🙈
😂 right? The ironic thing is the automatic wire strippers can do more damage to a stranded wire than traditional wire strippers
All of you guys saw this before I did, and I have to say that you picked this guy apart very well. As one of you said, "a little knowledge can be VERY dangerous". Good job people!
Yet, nearly 3-million people watched this video. Is this guy even an electrician?
@carson: Good for you, champ. Looking forward to your series of videos.
Tip 3: yellow-green wire should always be a little longer than L and N, in case if the plug is pulled hard, the PE wire will pull out as the last one.
do you know green wire with a yellow stripe is not the same as yellow wire with a green stripe?
@@topcatandgangWell that depends on if the green stripe on top of the yellow stripe or the yellow stripe on top of the green stripe.
@@magu2k 10-4
40 years experience for me and I agree that some people know just enough to be VERY DANGEROUS! ⚠️
Cringed through the whole video actually..... This is a electronics person who is trying to sound knowledgeable.
Agreed. This is awful. 80% of this video was completely wrong. Wild that people are watching this potentially thinking these are solid tips. The wire nuts part in particular made me cringe.
@@metalmike105 I cried laughing when he pulled the wagos out 🤣🤣
Wagos are much safer for a diy-er, because you don’t have to guess if there is a good connection inside the wire nut.
@@WimMalestein they are never the better option period. If you don't know how to properly use a wire nut hire a professional. That's the most basic thing you could possibly do. Any self respecting electrician would never use those silly things. And if you do I hope you have good insurance.
As an electrician, if you SPLICE the wires properly the wire nut it’s really only acting as a protector for the connection. I’m all for wire nuts. These other things are not nearly as good, take more time, and take up more space inside the junction box.
agreed, and those wago's have a tendency to fail under high load for long periods of time, as the spring steel heat cycles and gets weaker.
Down here in South AL they all get salt residue/corrosion within a month if we don't use thermal grease. Had a harbor we were working on and they wanted us to use wire clips so they could disconnect the pedestals easy before hurricanes. Lol already changed 4 boat pedestals back to wire nuts
@@drewlowery496 do you use wire nuts already coated with thermal grease or do you coat them yourselves?
@@gtb81. Also if there is wire 'bend' stress or crowding, it causes them to fail even faster.
Agreed
There is nothing wrong with wire nuts. The correct way to use them is to pre-twist the bare copper with linesman plyers, then apply the wire nut and twist until it stops, then continue to twist until you have about 2 inches of insulated wire outside the nut braided. The new lever action connections have their place in some applications, but its a fancy solution to a simple problem.
I typically use wagos for multi-connections in a tight fit; otherwise yea... I keep handful around in box for those occasions. On a typical 2-wire join, no good reason to use a overcomplicated min-bus-bar device with lever locks when a 2 cent wire nut works better. Resistance is higher, more failure points, more cost (I just don't get). They do look prettier i guess.
Not to mention you can buy a bag of wire nuts for the price of one of those connectors.
@@mateo77ish yeppers, comes down to the right solution for the job in most cases. I do prefer wagos for a 4-6 line join with 12gauge; instead of using blue wire nut. Don't like those massive joins. Keep in mind; I am just a amateur and lack the skills and practical application (I come from electrical engineering side).
Read the instructions, you do not need to pre twist the wires.
@@Dirty88Dizl I sure hope you don't do any actual wiring because I've done plenty and not pre-twisting usually leads to the connection coming lose, immediately or eventually.
I love 1:52 where he starts using the exact tool that the thumbnail and intro are saying no one needs 😂
Exactly. 😂
Another tip for your universal wire stripper: When stripping multistrand wire, before removing the stripped sheathing, use it to twist the strands. You'll get a far more universal and tighter twist that way.
And it will be easier to remove the sheathing.
Came to make this comment. You beat me to it. Do it all the time.
I was going to make the same comment! Great minds think alike! LOL
Garbage. This guy doesn't know anything.
You are so right, I realized that after one or two times of doing it the other way, I am not saying I am smarter than anyone else. I just thought I could keep from poking wires in my fingers.
TIP 4: Knots that can tighten will result in the perpendicular crossings trying to sheer through one another while strain is also being applied. If the knot is just snug and then soldered this tip is useful. Heat shrink wrap won't prevent the sheer and strain forces.
I agree the heat from loos connection will cause a fire
Very glad someone has pointed out, far too many issues with wiring can come down to hot joints
@@electrocresent l
Don't over think it. It's not a rope......
Ya I stopped watching and started strolling at the wire knot. Thats not the way i would do it. LOL
The automatic wire strippers are nice when you're stripping a LOT of wires at once, especially if you're sitting on a 5gal bucket parked in front of an electrical panel or J-box. For service work a pair of the Klein 'All Purpose' Pliers are my go-to for preparing wires.
The cost of wire nuts vs every other method is why nuts are used. For a DIY project nuts are silly, but if you are a professional, that cost becomes an issue to the bottom line quickly. I worked and retired as an Avionics mechanic for the Army. My box was called the "Avionics+" version. It had more tools than anyone else's box in Avo and it was mine because I was the Shop Chief. Among the tools were 2 sets of strippers you don't like, and a stripper that you prefer. It was useless. I'd go out and bring my 2 strippers and get the job done. They were so nice that the other dozen guys would ask to borrow them constantly. I had a guy who refused to use anything but a razor blade and never scratched a strand of wire with it. He was really good. I gave him my box when I left.
Liar.
@@Sum_Tings_Wong How so?
@@Sum_Tings_Wong Not at all. I am friends with an electrical estimator and I remember years ago he said bidding on new home builds was so cost competitive that a 5c difference per outlet could mean the difference between getting or losing the job.
30 years of experience tells me, some people know just a enough to be dangerous.
This guy is dangerous - advice is not so good
I’m a DIYer and had issues too. Could you be specific on which techniques are bad and why?
Sure, the best mechanical wire connection is a properly twisted prior to capping connection with a wire nut. You never splice wires together with knots and shrink tube, if a wire is damaged or too short you replace it. As far as the use of specialty tools that's a personal choice.
@@sparky8910 Thanks! I had a problem with knotting of the wires too. Never seen that before.
wired homes for 25 years jumped in a rig in 08 when housing crashed
Tip one: Use Wagos to connect wires Tip Two: Try the universal wire strippers until you determine that their bulky size and tendency to slip isn't worth it...and you'll be once again grateful for the lightweight, simple design of your old wire strippers.
use Wagos if you don’t mind losing money with all the call backs
@@1topfueldrag I've never had a single call back related to a Wago and the time savings alone for initial install, and for modifications to existing circuits pays for the slightly higher cost per unit of Wagos. Just practice with them a bit more...you can work it out.
@@1topfueldrag Wagos are amazing and that is all they use in Europe, but I am specifically talking about the brand Wagos (German made), not the generic push in connectors
@@Hitman.13. 👍🏽
@@1topfueldrag never had a Wago fail, had a few knockoffs fail but I normally only use fake ones for bodging stuff in my workshop.
I have a pair of those automatic wire strippers. I found them to be way more work than the manual ones. You need to constantly adjust the dial on them, they pinch the insulation short of the stripped part (sometimes pinching all the way through), and they usually require multiple attempts to get the tension just right. I switched back to regular manual wire strippers.
I'm old school, I use my linesman's as strippers and as a hammer, just don't knock the guy off the ladder.
I've tried several brands and most didn't work very good. I found the Irwin ones to work pretty well
I've had a few different pairs people gave me. I tried them a handful of times but eventually decided they weren't worth the weight in my toolbag so I gave them away. T-Stripper is my favorite wire tool.
Ironically, watching him use them two or three times convinced me to not buy a pair. My regular strippers work just fine and apparently faster.
My, ends up somewhere forgotten. Trust me, they are not elcheapo $. Due to the fact that I like the old tried and true elcheapo ones also lighter to carry and can work in tighter spots.
The one drawback I've found over the years before I retired is that those universal strippers seem to have one flaw. The right side jaw does not release at the same time as the left and that usually results in the wire being crammed up against the opposite side. If you're stripping stranded wire this just wads up the wire and you have to waste time straightening them all out. For that reason, many of our supervisors outlawed the use of them on the jobs we did.
Master tip when using ANY wire stripper on stranded wire. Do not remove the insulation all the way immediately. Use the bit of insulation to twist the wires and then remove it the rest of the way, much neater and easier on the fingers if you do a lot of them... all day long...
Another tip for either solid or strand, use the stripper to cut the insulation, then release the tension on the handles, grab the head of the strippers, twist it 360 deg to get a good cut on the insulation, then with the long end of the wire between your fingers grab the head and to pull the insulation off the wire. This works better because majority of the resistance of stripping the end insulation from a wire comes from the stripper biting into the wire and you need to squeeze the handles to keep the strippers at a 90 deg angle to the wire, so the tighter you squeeze the handle the more the strippers dig into the wire. By releasing the handles and pulling on the head of the strippers, you release the tension of the stripper digging into the wire, so the only resistance will tension of the insulation being pulled off the wire and possibly some uncut insulation.
Yeah, I figured you that one out on my own, nice even twists, the jacket will start sliding once it is proper twisted.
why dont you use ferrules, its alot easier and tidy
Is a master tip better then a pro tip? I'm so confused now
good tip
If you twist the wires together as is implied in NEC Article 110.14(B) then the wire nut simply holds them and insulates the exposed wire. The twisting is specifically for soldering or brazing but the idea of a twist on connector is basically the same and why the master electricians I know pre twist the wires before installing a wire nut. Positive connection is achieved prior to installing the wire nut, no guessing if the wire nut created the connection. While Wagos are good it is worth noting that articles I have read indicate they have higher resistance than wire nuts. Not usually a problem but the user should be aware.
It's harder to get a good connection with wire nuts when you have solid wire. It definitely makes sense to twist stranded wires together before putting on the wire nut.
@@MorrisDugan the same application is used for solid wire.... solid wires are Twisted together with a pair of linesman before installing a wire nut
I've been a electrician for 35 years. We use wire nuts. There is no better connection than twisting your solid wire together, snipping the bundle down to the proper length and using a wire nut. You have to know how far to skin back and how to twist with a pair of lineman pliers to do it right. You skin the each wire back farther than you intend to leave it then twist them up cut the bundle back just enough to where the wire nut will cover it when twisted on. There is no need to twist stranded wire. The bundle will twist together when you crank down on the wire nut. Push in connectors are for people who can't twist wire or they're good in a tight spot where space is limited.
I agree the best way for soild wire is traditional nuts
@@MorrisDugan Use pliers and twist solid core, every time.
Those large universal strippers don’t always work in 12v applications where space is limited. Also, if you do this kind of work long enough, you can eyeball the gauge wire you are working with to a t. Overall, fun video and some good hints.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. As someone who was a field service electronics engineer it's a relief to finally see some one give excellent advice on this subject.
Most of us, as electricians, we'll find this somewhat entertaining and scary. In addition to that, most of us will work with voltages and not signals.
i was looking for this comment, thx
They are both important this day in age and there are voltages in both.
@@carlovincetti4538 yes, but there is a big difference on Signals that are largely dc low voltage and ac power voltages.
I guess that's fair
I tell new electrical engineers to think of power transmission as if they are high-voltage signals. It usually helps them make the mental connection between signal analysis and power output/consumption. Further, in this day and age with energy-saving switching circuitry found even in lightbulbs, it’s really important to account for interference as well. This is especially true on GFCI-protected circuits where microcomputers are constantly calculating FFT on power signals. Noise riding on the line can occasionally trigger a false positive for ground/arc fault causing a trip.
I like how we are instructed to discard the old style wire strippers and then he proceeds to use his old style wire strippers for the next 4 demonstrations on what else not to use. 👍
Yeah, the guy disregards his own advice.
@@DerekDavis213 but, we are all watching !!! Lol.
I know, right?
Same thing I saying..lol..!
probly not an actual electrician ..
I really liked the Ideal push-in wire connectors. I've never seen them before. This morning, I am going to get some of these to help repair old telephone lines that have been damaged in a flooding event repair. And one more thing: I must confess that I bought a pair of these universal wire strippers by Channel Lock in almost new condition at a local flea market not knowing what they were or how to use them. They seemed so well over-engineered that for the asking price, I just bought them. Well, thanks to the excellent job in your video that problem between my ears is not fixed.
I've used wire strippers for years. still have one from 30 odd years ago. Never had problem. I keep one in my tool kit in the car , too, along with several different gauges of wire.
Don't forget about *right angle plugs* esp. when you're repairing a appliance plug, which frequently get crushed in between the appliance (refrigerator) and the wall.
2:50 From my own experience - I would not use that "knot" technique, particularly with wires carrying high current, and with something which will be jostled about a lot such as for example a high voltage DC charger for e-mopeds. The "knot" is highly susceptible to thin strands which are closer to the surface breaking off because of the tension its subjected to, and sharp angles. When the individual strands break - then can cut right through the heat shrink tubing. When there's high current going through this wire - these knots tend to heat up more due to higher resistance, and become even more susceptible to losing flexibility, breaking off and cutting through the heat shrink tubing, potentially creating a short circuit which could be unsafe and potentially damage your battery or charger, or cause battery venting and/or fire. Instead, - simply unwind both ends you intend to connect till they look like paint brushes. Dip them in flux, then slowly push the two unwound "bristles" through one another. Now squeeze the joint from all the sides and apply solder with a soldering iron. Something like this will be as strong as the wire itself, yet fairly flexible making it unlikely the little wires will break off and punch through the heat shrink tubing. If the end result still looks uneven, - wipe it with dry tissue and give it some light filing or sanding, but don't overdo it so as not to compromise the thin strands. But make absolutely sure the joint is perfectly smooth before sliding heat shrink sleeve over it.
@@blackout7028 Soldered or not - technique is not ideal for stranded cables carrying high current. Something like 5 volts DC at 2 amps, - sure.
That knot is awful. The 100 year old solution is the western union splice and solder.
@@dictare Indeed, the WU is equally adequate for multi-stranded and the single piece cabling alike.
I was trained in New Zealand to use the "married joint" similar to the technique described above (all house wiring is heavy stranded wire there) for ground wires, and also used it with heat shrink for random extension joints where putting in a junction box would have been overkill.
In your example of the moving and vibration on an ebike...that's the exact reason offroaders and vehicles in general do not have any soldering. almost all are crimped on connectors of some sort. solder creates a section of immobilized stranded wire which means the section of wires beside the solder takes on all the vibration and movement which eventually fatigues and breaks individual strands.
I'm an industrial maintenance technician. I almost always use stranded wire; never had issue with wire nuts! Try that knot with 10 gauge THHN 90 degree copper! Also, if you ever see brown and blue together in the same cable, it usually signifies use in a 24 VDC application with blue (+) and brown (-)!
That is actually UK wire colors for AC along with a few other countries probably. Actually in 24V brown is + and blue is -
I was taught to always use an underwriter's knot inside a replacement plug. To provide added self-tightening strain relief when the wires are pulled. Not required by code. But I've seen work done by other electricians who apparently prefer the method.
Alot of the newer cord caps do not have adequate room inside to do that without damaging the insulation. Nor is that needed with the redesign of cord clamps
Wow. This guy has as much not-so-good advice as he does good. A mixed bag of best practices. Better call an electrician.
o Only those who know understand what you mean. I agree!
Agreed. My complaint is people who don't pre-twist wire nut connections before putting on the nut. 30 years wiring traffic signals.
Don't just dump and run. Call out the issues. The author might thank you, and viewers will appreciate it.
Why not show the spring loaded type wire stripper at the beginning rather the end? Confusing. That style was all my Dad used. (And I learned that they will pinch the $#!+ out of your skin, when you are young and dumb.) Sorry.... I only use needle nose, lineman's pliers, Marettes ( tightened with the linemans while holding with needles), and electrical tape on anything over 16 ga. Old school here.
@@LarryCook1960 flat wagos are even better than those wire nuts
Wire nuts create a physical bond between conductors. Wagos have a "bus bar" to connect the conductors, that are limited to the current that they can handle vs the the current the conductors can handle when using wire nuts. Properly installed wire nuts for me all day, everyday.
amen.
You Said it Brother Far Superior
Good wire nuts have a conical shape spring where the spring itself has a square cross section that can really bite into the copper wires. Suggest throwing out old wire nuts that are all plastic or ceramic, The copper wires should be twisted together first, and maybe cut flush for equal length into the wire nut before attaching the wire nut. This way the spring grabs all the wires at the same time. Mixing stranded and solid wire can be a problem, like in a light fixture. Suggest twisting the stranded wire first, then twist onto the solid wire, making sure it extends slightly longer than the solid wire before putting on the wing nut. Love the square knot idea!
Check out the amperage tests people have done. The Wago connectors are impressive and in many tests the wire fails before the Wago does. The WAGOs have to pass the same UL tests as other connection methods and independent testing has shown the Wagos to be vastly superior to nuts.
Receptacles and switches have a "bus bar" too.
I've used a few different pairs of those goofy automatic wire strippers and I much prefer the standard T-stripper. I also have tried those lever type splice blocks and am not a fan, I had to fix several of those that the wires popped out of, installed by a supposedly professional electrician. Properly installed wire nuts are very reliable, I've never had one fail.
I'd say if such a professional electrician leaves such a mess with lever connectors, do pray he loses his license before he has a go at wire nuts...
The various lever connectors have the same issue you mentioned in another video about back stabbing an outlet. The connection relies on spring tension, and the surface area of contact is relatively small compared to a twisted connection covered by a wire nut, or by side wiring the outlet. Tests have shown that the lever connectors have higher resistance and create more heat, thus making them inferior for high current connections. Every type of connector has it's place, and I don't believe anyone should be claiming lever nuts are the best approach for all things. Just my humble opinion.
They are designed for a specific current. Use for that and it is perfectly safe.
I think most lever nuts don't use spring tension like the quick connectors on an outlet. They make like 2 line connectors that use the same principle as those but the lever designs don't. As someone who isn't a skilled electrician I am starting to swap to lever connectors because they are brain dead easy to use. I don't have to worry if I did the lines perfect for the wire nut when connecting stranded to solid or w.e. They are simple and plug and play as it were. Most of my electrical work is changing light fixtures or switches so nothing high load. The levers shouldn't ever have an issue with those and the increased resistance is non existent especially because my house was build in the 80s so with everything being LED lighting these days the load is even less.
Nice update and thank you for the info. Ordered one but I do see the advantage but in tight work places those wouldn't work so good but in open areas they would be fantastic.
a tip for the replacement plug is to leave the ground a little bit longer than the other 2 wires, this means if the strain relief (clamp) on the back fails then the last one to pull out is the ground tis can be commonly seen on Type G Plugs, the brown is always shortest, followed by the blue then the green is the longest so if the wire is pulled out of the plug the Live disconnects first, followed by the neutral then finally the CPC/Earth/ground is last.
Great advice! Similarly, when connecting a two string wire, it's good to cut one string longer on one part and the other string longer on the other part. That way the connection of the strings is separated and even if the insulation wraps off or melts, they won't get in touch.
JAMIE P....huh?
@@ottoroth9377 You want 1 of those pens that tell you if the wire is live or not. I don't know the correct name of the tool.
@@jpasby779 I've got several and tracers too....I find some of these pens give off false readings...best way if you're working alone is plug in a m I ni boom box...throw on some ZZ TOP, start flipping breakers, there ya go
@@ottoroth9377 Over there we have fork lift drivers not operators driving over the female ends at booths being built. I like your reply. :). This is a convention center where trade shows are held if you didn't know.
#4- square knot for in-line splice (neat)... I think the 'telegraph splice is easier, stronger, and thinner for heat shrink. (Also known as Western Union and Lineman's splice)
Interesting. The only issue I have is that the more I try to do anything even quicker, I usually find the quality of my results tend to deteriorate. My approach is to do something well once, so I will not have to do it over - which leaves me more time to do other things.
Imagine a brain surgeon using similar short-cuts.
I always twist the conductors together with pliers before installing wire nuts. Makes a nice solid connection that way.
This is a linesman technique, you use linesman pliers to twist the conductors together firmly and the wire nut is mostly to act as an insulator. “Marette” is a trade name, it’s another instance of calling all tissues “Kleenex.” I prefer wire nuts, even when mixing stranded + solid conductors. It’s cheap, simple, and plenty good enough. I rarely need to ever service connections once I’ve made them, I already own about $5 of wire nuts which should be enough to last the rest of my days!
Compare the wires pulled out of that way go and a wirenut. You can see it here you decide. I already have. Pro elect here but you decide. They are nice if you really think you will be taking them apart. Usually not. You decide. Pros and cons
That is how all my neutral and ground bundles were done. The sockets were all done wrong though.
Twisting solid together is a waste of time if you know how and have the strength to use wirenuts with the wings. Using MC in the field quite a bit, we don’t have time to twist with our lineman’s.
Had a client from Canada who insisted that we use a wire nut for all wire joints on his building. Of course, we first gave it a certified test due to the higher voltage in the EU, then a test of resistance to current strength was made. Basically, we found that it was best to twist the wires together first, cut them to the same length and then just put the wire nut. The only ones that met the test voltage were black hard Marettes, and in terms of current strength they were superior to plug-in connectors, 33, 35 and 37 withstood 60A currents without problems for 1 hour while individual wires (2.5 mm2) melted insulation. Plug in connectors for the same 2.5 mm2 wire would melt at 20A after only 20-30 min.
What's the point of such a test? If you're feeding 60A in a 15A circuit, it means your breaker is bad and your electrical device is ruined and your house is on fire, why would you care about the wire nut?
@@digitalcurrents iIt was a test until destruction by an authorized laboratory, nothing may be installed without a certificate of conformity. The insulation must withstand 1500 v min, and the load test is done if the automatic circuit fuse does not do its job (defective), then the load to the blown main fuse must be withstood. Also test the test was made for longer periods of time to determine the composition of the gases that are released during massive overheating, i.e. the toxicity of gases in the event of a fatal failure or fire.
Dinko....he probably had a bad experience!
This kid is showing what he doesn't know.
Used wire nuts on my last project because I had them. They are more work, but if done right work fine. If even run out to wire nuts, I will get these lever things.
When I was a Kiddie at electrical college, we were taught not to use cable junctions, nor splices whatever, we were taught that every wire had its own place of termination, whether that be the fuse board (consumer unit) or the receptacle. Power was daisy chained (as in ring mains) and spurs were taken from the back of a wall receptacle with a fused unit. Similarly, lighting went to ceiling rose first, then down to switching and back, there were extra terminals in each rose for additional lamps to be added on the same circuit (named loop). There were no mid cable breaks. One of the problems with mid-cable breaks is that they would have to be exposable for inspection, which is fine if you are running exposed conduits, but if running in walls covered by dry-wall and plaster, where do you put the junction box without burying it? Indeed in a lot of Eu countries you will notice circular indentations in the plaster work, that is to show electricians in the future where buried junctions are... Crazy. Going back to College, as we have to every time they upgrade the Regs, I noticed that junction boxes, and mid-cable joints are in favour now, and they even suggest Wagos as the tools to use... How things change, I must be getting old.
That's is totally correct!! Any installation should actually just go into conduit and terminate at junction points(light switch, light point, socket outlet and D.B etc.) Anyways I'm a South African Electrician and our terminology is quite different but electricity is basically the same!
And another thing is one should use lugs and ferrules to get a good connection for joints and termination points!
25 year electrician here, tio #5....... twist the wires together clockwise. Then you know you have a proper connection. Then use a wire nut and twist it securely. The other connectors have a tendency to have one or more of the toggles getting undone in a full junction box.
Alway pre-twist your wires before putting them in the nut. Is that heat shrink tubing UL listed? Only used it on low voltage wiring. Will the current melt the heat shrink?
Was thinking the same
that knotted splice is not approved for line voltage connections. there is heat shrink tubing that is rated for line voltage, though.
I pre twist. The manufacturers say you dont need to...on the box
That goofy square knot can definitely get hot enough to melt insulation and start a fire. It is a terrible idea for anything that uses any current.
No matter what your ⚡ voltage, that square knot is not a good connection ... There will be a minute amount of arcing of current from wire to wire at this connection point and even if not, nobody can guarantee it doesn't. This can definitely lead to house fires.
Love the thought but keep in mind the lever lock wire connectors you link to are not UL Listed. Great for Low-Volt stuff but STAY AWAY with mains voltage.
They are now the 221s cover the US the EU and Japan
THANK YOU. they're also just as SH!TTY as back stab outlets
Use Wago 221’s. They are CSA and UL approved.
I wondered about this comment also. The liability of marketing a non-UL approved product for something like electrical connections is tremendous and I wondered why anyone would do this. My Google research indicates that they are and have been UL approved for a long time. But all you have to do is look on the packaging and I think they'll be marked on the devices also if they are UL approved.
@@lorenrickey5481 Or if you don't necessarily need lever action (still can pull out the wire, just can't use with stranded wires) and want smaller size - 2273.
Huh! I've been using a universal stripper for a while now and I did always have problems with small gauge thread that was for heated stuff (heatproof fabric coating over a plastic coating over a small thin gauge wire)...and I had never noticed the little +/- thing before then. It's not perfect because the problem is that on a small fabric wire the stripper can't get enough grip, but using the tightening thing worked pretty well (it took a few strands with the coatings but left 95% of then intact) . Thank you.
The way you know the wires are making a positive connection is by doing it CORRECTLY and TWISTING the wires together with pliers before capping them.
Pretwisting? You animal!
Def. I prefer making a proper splice then using a wire nut, I don’t trust the surface connection with these push down type connectors, the surface contact is little between the wire and the connector. The only time I use these type connectors is when the wire is really short and I don’t want to risk breaking what little wire I have to work with by doing a splice connection, so I use the push down type connectors only when working with really short conductors.
it is not correct to twist the wires before installing a wire nut. the nut twists the wires
@@somerandomboomer243 I hope you're not calling yourself an electrician and working on people's homes.
@@somerandomboomer243 problem is that the wire nut does not always properly twist the wires together. Ever remove a wire nut in the field and all the wires just fall away from each other? Wires need to be twisted together first.
I recommend using a fork crimp connector if you’re using stranded wire on a receptacle or switch. Takes a little more time, but I consider it a more secure connection
Adding a connector in my opinion would not make it more secure. You now just added something that can fail. Keep it stranded. Use a flat head not a Phillips. Tighten back off a bit than tighten one more time. Just my 2 cents.
Keep in mind that the NEC states you can only use fork terminals on receptacles or switches if the manufacturer of the receptacle or switch allows it in their documentation.
I’d solder it to keep the strands together before I used a fork terminal. The vast majority of fork terminals people are going to find are for low voltage dc use and are not rated for home AC use.
@@jamestewell7721 You would not solder it if you did this for a living.
@@jamestewell7721 All I’m saying is that’s great if you doing 5. If you do this for a living you would not be.
I totally didn't know about the universal wire strippers, thanks for this, as I am about to swap out plugs for a painting job I'm doing!
On most of these helpful hints videos I learn nothing but on this one I learned a lot. I inherited a universal wire stripper from my father but I didn't know what it was. I have been doing a lot of electrical work the last few years. I wish I had known what that was.
If your new plug has enough room to tolerate a slight increase in volume, I tie an underwriter's knot to resist axial tension on the cord. By far the most common electrical misadventure is caused by bad cords, and the most common situation is where people yank on the cord to pull it out. So, you want to tie a knot so that the wires can't be yanked out of position when a consumer pulls on it. The underwriter's knot is specifically designed for that purpose.
Is the underwriter's knot what he did when putting the cord back together?
twist and cut with solid wire and use the wire nuts
You do not need a knot there is an integral cord clamp in all 3wire cord caps that secures the cord well . Of course the OD has to be within range
Most cord caps have about half an inch of wire sticking out before the clamp, so there's no room for a knot. It's a tiny little space. But each wire has a clamp and the strain relief on the outside is very strong. And yeah, don't yank on the cord.
7:45 First: Any electrician worth their salt can feel what size wire they have in their hand by feel. Second: I'll try and explain this as best I can. You're stripping the wire wrong. Grab the wire between the second knuckles on all four fingers. Then use your thumb to push against the strippers in a motion parallel to the wire. If I've sufficiently explained it, then you will find that the operation of stripping wire is 1000% easier.
Often looks with something you are used to, 20 is so much smaller than 18. 12 and 14 look different too.
@@toriless Agree. When you work with wiring for awhile, you can tell by looking or by feel. Also, you know bolts 1/4-20, 10-32, 8-32, 6-32, 4-32, all just from sight. I cannot remember when I have put a wire in the wrong hole of a stripper or missed matching a nut to the common bolt sizes mentioned.
So, not only are the 'stripper' just like wire cutters, except having a much larger contact area on the soft conductor to facilitate conductor strand and insulation removal... they require two hands to use them. That makes for multiple reasons why they are sub-standard tools in a modern World.
Hi, enjoyed looking at the Wago Lever-Nuts, the method of attaching two wires together, the special strippers and your tips. The stripper are somthing I would buy. But, I was an Electrician that worked on commercial jobs, and never saw the lever-nuts used, the method to attach two wires or a stripper like you showed used. I am old and it's been years since I worked. Many of the buildings we wired had several electrical rooms with 480/277 VAC panels and 208/120 VAC panels. We used commercial (spec grade) receptacles that had plates that tightened up on the wire. They work great for solid or stranded wire and there are 4 slots for straight wire ends on each side. SEE: Lowes Item Number: 61241 My prefered wire nut was the "IDEAL Twister", they allowed me to use my nut driver to tighten them up.
One trick that was missed and also works great with universal wire stripping with stranded wire is that, do not pull the detached piece of sheeting straight out with your fingers. Twist it out, rolling the loose tube while pulling it out. It makes perfect and really tight twist on the wire that is much better than you can do with your bare finder.
that is what linesman pliers are used for...
@@robertwilber1909 linesman pliers are made for just lineman wire which is solid wire
I was an electrician for years (industrial, commercial and residential) and never had a problem with the simple Ideal brand wire strippers or with traditional wire nuts. Simple is always best. The older proven methods and approved electrical codes have worked for decades. I wonder if all these new wire nut substitutes would be approved by a building code inspector.
WAGO pioneered lever nuts, receiving UL certification on the first such device in 2003
Always is good to try new things even know we may think is not good but we will never know until we try it. Remember one day what we use today was new and older people probably think the same way like we are thinking today 🤔🤔🤔🤔
@@timetrip6957 And a time saver!
The old way at least in sweden is a themial block (sockerbit)
@@ThePapaja1996 Did you intend to write, "terminal block"?
I like Wago’s 221 and 222’s. Also I have switched my preferences to 3M wire nuts. Especially the tan/red ones. They work for most connected circuits in home construction.
I prefer the 3m also I have the orange with the blue silicone skirt, never failed me yet
3M does make quality everything, and I believe they made these originally and called Scotchloks, is that right?
@@Flea-Flicker yes they did you can still buy them there the ones that have a button looking top you put the wires in and press down the button top and it locks the wires in
Wago and never looked back.
@@TotallyNuss Yes... with wago there is a solid connection and you can see inside it... even with OCD you can sleep better thanks to it
Universal wire strippers are the greatest thing next to sliced bread. lol. I was skeptical at first, but they do really work, and make stripping wires easier and faster.
Great info even though I don't do any major electrical work mainly small repair like putting new plugs on or running speaker wire and occasionally trailer lights and repair type work I've had universal wire strippers for a while but I'm not giving up my t strippers like pictured in the video but the other style where the goes behind the hinges to be stripped I hate those
Here in the UK fitting a plug used to be taught at school. In my day appliances didn't come with a plug attached, and all (with very rare exceptions) are removable, because they ALL (without exception) have a replaceable fuse in them.
One of the best trade tests you can give someone applying for an electrical engineering roll, certainly sorts those who walk the walk and not just talk the talk
In Australia, it's illegal for anyone other than a licenced electrician to replace a plug. Talk about insane government interference in our lives!
@@kenlipworth6707 A plug or a socket? Anyone can change a plug, but a socket we can do the work here, but it has to be inspected by a licensed electrician. That's relatively new because I've done electrical work before. I actually did house rewiring as a job 40 years ago and hated it, the only thing I never touched was water and gas. Even there you can do the work, it just needs inspecting before it's actually used.
@@kenlipworth6707 At least South Australia legalised female barmaids eventually in 1967.
We always had a pack of MK UK plugs in the house and a selection of fuses. The same plug is used for all appliances and there are a selection of fuses up to 13 Amp. The size of the fuse is to protect the wiring of the plug to the appliance. Normally there is a label on the appliance which says what size fuse should be used. Many householders think that the size of the fuse is to protect the appliance. Not so. The appliance should have internal protection for the appliance. This is becoming less of the norm as most appliances now come with a moulded plug which is fused correctly. Unless is it a dodgy Chinese appliance and then who knows.....
I thought it was odd that the first thing the video showed was getting rid of the old wire strippers then the author used the old type wire strippers for each of his examples until the very end. Well, the old type worked well for 50 years, I suppose they will work well for another 50 and they take up so much less room and let me guess... they are cheaper too. Great video and yes, I have seen and used both types over the years.
Agree JP, and you're not supposed to splice unless it's in a fixture, and wire nuts have been around almost as long as electricity in the home. I have a coffee can full of old porcelain nuts I've collected as I upgraded my service.
Excellent detail in this video. My wire strippers are of the same type, but much older. It is a far more crude wire stripper than this one, though it does still work OK.
For stranded, I always find myself adding a short solid wire pigtail. Not sure if that's the right way to do it, but it seems to make a much nicer connection on screw terminals.
twisting the stranded wire the opposite way of its normal twist makes it possible for me to put a stranded ground wire on a screw. if, it doesnt seem to work, then i pigtail a solid on it.
With regard to his splicing technique, I would recommend soldering the wires before installing the heat shrink insulation.
Much of this looks fun--takes up too much time--deal with the real world I need to make money when I pay someone
Yep, it will arc without solder filling in the knot.
Twisting works as well, then wire nut. Simple, never had a issue.
No greater lesson learned than when splicing 277. Mistakes get amplified.
With bundle of nine it seems one is always slipping out the pliers, use these it was so easy a child could do it.
I especially like the automatic stripper's depth gauge so when you're wiring an electrical panel you can set that depth and you will have the exact amount of copper Exposed on every single breaker, it makes for a very nice-looking panel which the inspector will appreciate. also you can strip a whole set of 12/2 or 12/3 Romex in it's jacket wih 1 squeeze! Edit: guess I should have just waited till the end of the video cuz you hit those points also LOL
That knotted connection at 2:36 needs soldering first, before it's insulated or else it will arc and cause a fire when it starts carrying current. And I know as I've seen plenty of such loose connections have a melt down, both on vehicle wiring as well as mains. I normally twist them together face to face, overlapping and then solder them, being careful not to shrink the sleeve in the wrong place of course...
My experience too. Loose connections are high resistance which cause heat. Heat causes fires. Horrible tip. Add solder and much better (if they know how to solder lol).
The reason to never give up the old wire stripper design is not all insulation behaves with "self adjusting" types as shown. Certain marine style cables are the main offenders. I have run across thermosetting insulation [I forget the exact type] that gets down into the strands which even defy normal wire strippers: a pocketknife or boxcutter was the only way to prepare wire ends, by shaving down wire insulation at a 30 to 45 degree angle, then cleaning remainder out from between the strands before terminating.
In All the food processing plants I have worked for in my 20+ years we always used wire nuts. Never had a problem with them coming loose. I do like the connectors you showed. You used those green wire strippers for the most of your video, then you said not to use them at the last. I love my strippers like your green ones. My universal strippers do not grip the wire like it should. Just sayin'.
If you use good techniques, I am not experience enough to bind 9 neutrals reliably, it is easy with a few lever nuts.
Question - you say 20 years in food processing facilities? How common were total loss fires?!
Those "clip nuts" are more expensive but so handy. Usually, we use them only when you have fine strand and solid strand wire and need to connect those together. "Push wire Wago" is the usual connector. I haven't seen those those "wire nuts" used after 90's installations in Finland.
I used a lever nut to connect a defrost thermostat in my freezer because the space was so tight and it worked even though it's 10-20 degrees below zero in there.
#5…you do know its making a positive connection, mainly because by manufacturers direction and code you’re supposed to twist the wires together and then put the wire nut on. If you’re just sticking two ends of wire under a wire connector and not twisting them, you’re doing it wrong. #4…why would you go through all that pain to connect stranded wire? Use a Stakon…that’s why they’re made. #3…A new cord end isn’t a “trick” it’s aisle 45 at Lowe’s. #2… A switch isn’t a “trick” #1… The only time those “strippers” are useful is if stripping hundreds of conductors for panels….after a few months those strippers fail and do not grip. So they’re okay for awhile, but keep your “old faithful” strippers handy because you’ll be needing them sooner or later if you’re putting your reputation on “universal wire strippers” I don’t’ play an electrician on KZhead, I am one legally and don’t need a camera or “tricks” to do my job. Nothing you said was unsafe so I give you credit for that considering what I see on KZhead.
Tip #5 Wago does newer type that has slimmer and on top transparent housing. Much more convenient and safe at the same time. Tip #1 best tool I ever had. Recommend.
Wagos 221 for the win.
Mine are all transparent.
I have some like the orange ones. I was repairing the wiring on a ebike. I had a eight prong plug that got badly missed up. I was bypassing it altogether and hooking it direct.
Just got my the Generic Universal Wire Strippers from your link, Can't wait to use them at work. Thanks for the great product tip.
I’m still using classic wire strippers..not giving up on it anytime soon.
@4u25out > I find automatic adjustable wire striper to the middle ground - great for lots of wire stripping & easy on the hands. A 199 Stanley knife is a underrated tool when your in a pitch or removing outer sheath of cable or multi strand. If you doing it professionally you going to have the right tools as it's your best interest for saving time & little mistakes. DIY not so much unless you like collecting pricey under used tools that gather dust in tool boxes!
Great Tips. One added tip for you. On stranded wire if the insolation doesn't come off, twist the cut insulation before you pull it off to get the perfect twist on your wire.
good one
i've always burned it off
@@chuckholmes2075 Me too. I never buy wire strippers; just a couple of butane torches. They're a little bulky compared to the strippers... Wire's kinda hot but I got my needle nose pliers... Never buy saws either. MAP gas torch makes quick work of a 2x4. Never have to charge the battery or carry around bulky extension cords... 😎
@@johnsee7269 don't forget to bring marshmallows, you firebug!
@@skindianu 🙃
When you use the wire stripper with stranded wire, twist the end with the plastic piece you’ll be removing still on the wire. Then, when you pull it off, it’s a perfect orderly twist every time.
I've had more failures of the lever nuts that all the years of using wire nuts. I frequently have to troubleshoot circuits where lever nuts were used. Opening the failed lever connector reveals a burnt metal contact. A properly made connection using wire nuts is tried and true with more wire to wire contact.
I don't know if I would use those lever lock things. They remind me of those push in type terminals. I can't tell you how many times I have replaced an outlet that had a smoking hole blown out of the back because one of those got loose. Fortunately they usually just make the outlet stop working instead of burning down the house. Besides, B caps, wire nuts or whatever you call them in Kanukistan are supposed to primarily be for insulation. For solid wires you should be twisting them together till they lock solid with the nose of your pliers, trim them and THEN put the cap on. I like to wrap them a couple times with tape to make sure. I consider that best practice. It's how I was taught.
Canada is officially a bilingual country, so we have the French-sounding “Marrette,” which is the name of the manufacturer. The Home Depot calls the other manufacturers’ products “wire connectors,” which is a really boring, generic name. If you call them “wire nuts,” or “those twisty wire thingies,” we’ll know what you mean. And don’t get me started on cable ties/zap straps/zip ties. BTW, the guy who makes these vids is in the US, so I’m not sure why he used the”Marrette” name. The US Home Depot website doesn’t recognize the word, but the Canadian site does. And I don’t know where he got the cord he repaired. I’ve only seen white/black/green in Canada. That blue/brown/yellow-green is Australian colour code (probably NZ, too, and maybe England).
Try one, they are much better than it appears.
@@keithmills778 I always have called them wire nuts.
@@toriless a lot of people call them B-Caps because there is a company that makes wire nuts called B-Cap.
@@keithmills778 The blue/brown/yellow-green is common for cords supplied by IBM. I got a ton of 'em! We learn this during recycling of old gear and stripping off the wires or shortening of cords (IBM only ships three length of cable: 1) Too long, 2) Way-too long, and 3) You gotta be kidding!)
Actually have used most of these tricks. . -Recently became a Wago Lever Nut convert. -Have used the plug replacement trick for both ends of an extension cord or fan. (usually on the female end, I add a junction box and outlet so I'm also able to plug in more than one thing at a time) -The same "lefty loosey/righty tighty" technique applies as well in plumbing when using Teflon Tape. -Have been using an "automatic wire stripper" for 20 years but have never used it on Cat 5 or extension cords. The one I haven't used is hook splicing. From when I did a DIY car stereo installation, I went with crimp caps.
It is even easier to push back into the box than those thick bundles. It is not worth redoing any but for new work, even replacing a switch, it is not a bad solution. Costs more though so I expect GC's to still use wire nuts.
@@toriless I believe "wagos" the connectors shown in the video have a higher resistance and fail "melt down" quicker than wire nutz...... But wagos are quicker and easier to use..
@@cbk-te7ru I would use actual wagos instead of these cheap imitations
Low voltage guys wouldn't use automatic strippers on ethernet cable. Get a proper cable jacket stripper instead.
IIRC, putting a j-box on a flexible cord is a Code violation. Can someone please quote the code?
Amazing the difference between US and UK practice. I haven't seen any of those twist together connectors since the 1950s. The ones I knew were porcelain and were called Screwits. My dad used them to wire houses that had been only gas lit before WW2. Not seen your suggested replacements here though they look useful. I liked your clever way of putting a reef knot in a pair of wires to be joined in line. However, I think I'd add solder before sliding the heat shrink over the join. Never seen any wire strippers like your first ones. I always just used my side cutters until I acquired a set of strippers similar to your suggested replacement. I've been fitting mains plugs since I was about 12/13 but, of course, ours are much different from yours and always have 3 pins now and have a current rating (theoretically) of 13 amps - enough for 3kw with 250v (as all UK mains is). A good idea is to make the earth wire a bit longer than the others so that it's the last to pull away if the cord grip fails.
I ordered a smart door bell and it came with these type of connectors. I threw them away of course.
The automatic wire stripper was invented in 1915, with various improvements, with most current popular units being of the 1959 updated version. If one twists wires together, the proper way is using pliers. The tight twisting actually creates an ionic bond that lowers resistance. That said, I prefer a lineman splice to either and in some uses, I'm known to solder the entire mess, first of course, placing heat shrink over one of the to be joined conductors.
I do this stuff for a living and have to warrantee my work, I will stick to the twisted wire and wire nuts. As far as the wire strippers, I think I have a set of those in a box next to my Slap Chopper, Snuggie, and my Big Mouth Billy Bass in the attic....
I agree with all you said Craig McCoy. The advice given is not the best I've ever heard. Those fancy "universal" strippers have been around a good long time...they are great for some applications but sometimes you need to PROPERLY cut the insulation like with silicone and other "rubbery" insulation. Wire nuts make a MUCH better connection...you just have to know HOW to use them CORRECTLY. Check your local Building and electrical code too because in some locations lever nuts, and similar press in nuts sometimes are not allowed. However...lever nuts are always usefull and helpful for temporary work and test builds/test circuits. It's kind of like using a bread board vs perf board vs pcb. They are all usefull for a given application...but I wouldnt pay for a TV built with anything but a PCB.
@@EDToft lever nuts as you call them (Wagos as we know them in Europe) have been tested proven to be better connectors than wire nuts, they now carry the UL too
Code requires the wires be mechanically secure before you cap them
@@dentonhoward5086Do you mean securing the Romex (or other bundle type)? Please clarify because otherwise isn't capping with a wire nut or Wago the means to secure them together?
Tip #5: Don't use UL Listed connectors, instead use Chinese counterfeit WAGO connectors that aren't certified by any safety agency. Tip #4: Just don't.
If you want a really secure splice then twist the stripped ends together with linemans and then cap it. WAGOs don't give the most secure connection I can't believe this was suggested lol. More like a guide for handyman electricians I guess
@@ToastedLobster IDK how people don't know they're supposed to twist the wires before putting the nut on top. I was taught that the first time I was shown how to wire a socket.
@@thelight3112 I know at least some wire nut or marette manufacturers do not recommend pre twisting the wires. I have a box of marette brand wire nuts that tell you NOT to pre twist the wires. I always pre twist.
Wago connectors are great for the garden irrigation system. Saves soldering and can be reused. Soldering is not for high current applications because solder will melt and high current will increase heating and will result in fire. My experience with automatic strippers was that they have reliability problems and fail. Make sure you buy high quality when selecting them.
All I use now are the Wago lever nuts. The newer models are clear. You can actually see the conductor, and I find them to be very secure.
I would like to add for the three prong replacements, you may want to use a knot in the wires within the new plug to prevent the wires from being removed over time. we all know the wires aren't meant to be pulled on, but let's face it, it happens. so be sure to make the wires with a knot to hold them inside the new plug with enough slack inside they can be wiggled a little while connected to their contacts.
The UL or underwriters knot is required on the really old 2-conductor plugs which had no built-in strain relief, but, the modern 2-conductor plugs do have this and most importantly, don't have room for a knot.
They have a built-in multiple point clamping system. If you used one you would know that. They one I installed even locks the plugs together. It is part on a power backup system and I want to make sure it could not get pre-maturely disconnected. Just push a button when ready to unplug.
Good luck tying an underwriter knot in a 12/2 and then finding a plug big enough to enclose it that isn't some giant twist lock monstrosity.
I usually tie a wire-tie to prevent force on the pins if there is enough space in the plug.
1) Be careful with lever nuts. Some are for smaller gauge wires. 2) I would never use automatic wire strippers on Cat 5/6 and 7 cable. The conductors are very fragile. I use the cutting edge of regular wire strippers just enough to score the outer jacket, Slight bend and it pops right off. This way you are not putting any stress on the cable. If you are putting on RJ45 connects. Use EZ passthrough, they are easier to use and check your work.
Yes, copper wire cant be bent like plastic; it will weaken it.
Love the “new” version of wire strippers. 🙄 My Dad was an electronics technician and had a version of this 50 years ago. I have them now and they still work great.
For over 40 years I've always used cheap choc box connectors and electrical tape for light fitting connections . Never had one fail- yet
You might wabt to KEEP your scissor-style wire clippers :) Automatic ones don't work very well on insulations other than PVC - they are not good with silicone, and you'll ruin your wire if it got any type of sheathing. Also it's getting messier when you go to thinner wires, say 24-30 AWG.
I've used the universal type in autos, gets problematic in tighter areas or with shorter wires, just trying to grab and align it right. Also, those work really well in demonstrations, but get them out in the real world where you constantly run into sealants, drywall mud, paint or wet wiring, they don't last long and don't hold up and often as not don't grab the wire worth a d. I'll stick to my $9 kleins thank you.
Good tips but you need to “Walk-the-Talk” regarding the last tip for wire clippers. In tips 1 through 4 you used the wire clippers. You only switched to the Tack tool when you were talking about it. I liked using my Tack tool until it broke within a year of purchasing it and I could no longer use it.
Or...he didn't want to give away the "surprise" since the auto wire stripper was tip #1.
I love walk the wall and talk the talk! Right on!
Just a garbage ad…
I agree, he wasn't using the fancy tool. Also, the auto strippers will probably light you up good stripping live wires. Mine sits in the tool box, until I have a job with LOT of stripping, like building a cabinet.
just a thought....we used to use 'push in' wiring style outlets but they were out lawed for 20 amp circuits a while back.....because of the nature of the connection failing over time....(ive absolutely witness'ed this stuff in remodelling.) it seems that these push in connectors are the same principle and i would imagine at sometime in the future, these will be 'outlawed' as they did with the push in plugs. maybe these connectors dont use exactly the same set up, but i wouldnt trust push in connectors on anything but a light fixture.
Yeah it's really funny when europe calls america old fashioned and stuck in the past when we use wirenuts and they use wagos
I've had a couple of pairs of universal strippers since the early 1908s. Or maybe not, I think I threw one away a few years ago when it screwed up my wire and pissed me off. Those older ones used a gripper and a set of thin, sharp cutting blades that are calibrated such that they only close slightly more than the grippers. The result is poor. The range of wire they can strip is limited and you can only strip single strand wire, not cables. Often they still score the conductor or cut strands from stranded core wires. I almost never use them. But the universal ones in this video seem to work much better than my old timers and I am very eager to get a set and try them. For the traditionalists out there: cooking fires and going to bed with the sun are traditional, electricity is not, so don't get too hung up on doing things the way you've always done them. There's always something better coming down the wire.
I love, love, love how you don't waste time with some moronic music video introduction but get straight to the point of the video. Excellent!
I've been using those "new wire strippers" since the 80s. Not sure how new they were back then, but I know I still love them! Thanks for the tips - now I'm ordering some of those lever nuts. :)
i have a pair made in the 60's
Dad taught me to roll the wire on my pocket knife. Many times I’m done stripping wire before the pair of strippers are fetched!
My pair say "PATENTED USA CHINA WEST GERMANY" on the back, which is a nice indication of their age.
There is nothing wrong with wire nuts if you follow instructions by twisting the wires to be connected as instructed. Wire nuts have been used for decades, the clamp connectors are ok but I have seen them fail in outdoor electrical box's in Florida heat by becoming brittle and coming apart
Thank you Dennis Tibbs.
I use the wire strippers to cut 4x40 screws, works famously every time. Sweet tool
Will those work on the braided 14/3 and 12/3
As an apprentice I’m definitely going to start calling wire nuts marettes just drive my journeyman crazy
Marrettes is just a brand name. It’s like saying kleenex or band aid. Around here marretes have the lions share of the market, very few people call them wire nuts.
@@huejanus5505 wire nuts is Also a brand name owned by Ideal Industries
As a master electrician your journeyman should tell you not to watch videos like this.
@@gradyrm237 what are you doing here?
Look up the video of the kid on Judge Judy saying "Marlboro Reds" and her going nuts trying to understand what he's saying. If you say "Hey, hand me some Marettes will ya?" your coworkers might think you want to borrow a cigarette from them. 😸😸😸
Love non electricians telling folks best practices. Wagos are great for luminaries, UC lights or other tight spaces. For many others like outlets for receptacles and switches, pretwist and wire nuts are still king.
Why?
@@thedarksage328 because for high current applications, wago connectors heat up and reduce current because of resistance it introduces due to wires not being directly connected to each other but rather the current/voltage need to go through, effectively, a bus bar. studies have been done and you can search YT for other videos that show them heating up and testing voltage drops across them where as wire nuts make wires contact each other so no voltage/current actually travels through the nut or its metal cone itself.
thanks for this...many people are just jumping onto the wago connector bandwagon and not understanding that they have their place and it is not universal. Also, any good electrician knows what wire nuts sizes to use for what size/how many wires and how to properly pretwist and use them to make a secure connection. wire nuts are far superior in terms of transmission of signals if actually done correctly.
@@thedarksage328 see what Michael said.
@@michaelhanson5773 yep. It’s the handyman or homeowner diy’er who sing the praises as a replacement of wire nuts. Never, ever heard an actual electrician say it. It’s kinda like the novelty wire strippers. They are cool but not practical for me at least. My tool belt is heavy enough.
I didn't remember watching this video previously, but I remember now that this was the video that got me to buy one of those cool wire strippers. Life is so much easier after buying those. :)
When putting stranded wire around a screw twist the strands to the left until they are tight and bend your hook to the right and when you tighten the screw it will pull the strands in under the screw head