2 Most Common Issues DIYers Make With Metal Electrical Boxes
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Metal electrical boxes have many advantages over their plastic counterparts but there are a few things that are classically done incorrectly. I will walk you through 2 of the most common examples I see in houses around my area. And then more importantly how to correct or avoid these 2 issues.
Parts Used
3/8" Metal Clamp Connectors (100 Pack): amzn.to/3LFz2cf
3/8" Plastic Clamp Connectors (50 Pack): amzn.to/3j86vjk
4" x 4" Metal Box: amzn.to/3J4VSZ6
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Chapters
0:00 Intro
1:08 Most Common Example When I Use Metal Boxes
1:47 1st Example of Incorrect Metal Box Install
2:54 Example in Early 1900's Home
3:48 How To Correct the 1st Issue
6:10 2nd Example of Incorrect Metal Box Install
8:09 How To Correct the 2nd Issue
10:00 Wrap Up
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I do property maintenance, but I do a lot more than what a typical handyman would do. I know enough, to not do things I shouldn’t be doing. I really enjoy learning new things, and I always learn something new watching your videos. Thanks for putting these out there.
Just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate all of your videos. I'm a DIY'er and attend University of KZhead all the time. Your videos are extremely helpful and you present them with absolutely no arrogance. A lot of people are much too quick to jump into the comments to pound their chests that you are wrong and they know it all. I encourage all these "pros" to take the time and share their wealth of knowledge to us DIYers and make videos to teach us all. Again, Thank you and keep up the good work.
I have recently watched a couple of your videos, as an electrician for 45 years, thank you for taking the time to hopefully prevent someone from hurting themselves or others. Box fill, stapling, proper access are other items I run across over time. Education is good.
as an electrician of 40 years in Germany, you better move here, we are living in the 21st century, not in 1910!
As an electrician in Portugal i second this statement. Move to Europe to see how things are supposed to be done PROPERLY. You guys got stuck in the past 🙄
I've never understood the hate for plastic boxes. I've never seen one fail, but I have seen SEVERAL old rusty metal boxes, or metal boxes without clamps being used, or screws corroded into them, or wires shorting against the inside, etc. With plastic, there is no risk of the box being electrified if something goes wrong. Sure, they will melt in a fire, but if it gets to that point, a melted box is the least of your worries. Not to mention the ease of installing old work boxes without needing to screw them to a stud.
In Australia black pipe all boxes are plastic metal is outlawed all plugs male female are color coded red black green red right hand black left hand green earth all power point wall plugs have switches it's against the law to do your own wiring we are 240 volt if you get caught you will get an on the spot $ 5000 fine then YOU will have to attend court safety is very big issue every house must have earth leakage circuit breaker and leak circuit detector for each appliance aircon stove all power point's water heating ⚡⚡⚡💯🇦🇺
Stupid phone put black pipe in comment disregard black pipe?????? They think there smart
Plastic boxes are fine for romex. If you're installing MC or conduit, metal boxes are a must.
I don't hate plastic boxes; I use them all the time.I prefer metal when I'm not mounting a switch, receptacle, or other device; when it's hidden (but still accessible, such as an attic); in utility spaces, such, as a garage, shop, where they might get bumped; and, yes, where they're likely to be seen by other service men, such as around the furnace or water heater. I think I've seen too many burnt wire nuts to completely trust plastic in rough service, or where the smell of smoke might not be noticed. In my last garage project, I ran metal flex because the walls weren't paneled (pop Code cite quiz, anyone?) and metal flex just looked better running to metal boxes. I also used metal boxes to connect metallic flex fixture whips to the NM I usually run.
My practical use for plastic depends on where and how much use they are going to get. Switches and say outlets in an attic plastic is fine outlets on a kitchen counter or most multi gang switches metal boxes with screws over nails much preferred same as commercial grade over cheaper blder grade
As I’ve been diving deeper into DIY electrical, I’ve developed a love for the metal boxes. I just want to thank you for your videos. Because of your concise but informative content, I have tackled quite a few projects that I at one time would have thought impossible. Thank you!
I've never seen any metal electrical boxes here Germany, what's the advantage in using metal instead of flame retarded plastic? One broken Wago clip and the whole box turns into a shock hazard.
metal boxes for electrical wiring makes me cringe...but i live in Europe...we have PVC!
@@Arltratlo Yeah, me too ! The PVC ones are not as robust to withstand the heat of a fire but then again.....if you DO have a fire going on which threatens the integrity of the junction box, you have a lot of other things to worry about anyway :-) :-). For that matter I do prefer the PVC types.......much lesser chance of accidentally creating shorts.....
@@bertschalk1798 our PVC boxes dont burn, they are self extinguishing. we are professionals here in Europe, all names you use in electricity are from Europeans!, Volta, Ampere, Hertz and Gauss!
@@Arltratlo I know Arl....I am from the Netherlands 🙂..... Cheers !
Watching your videos fills me with a mixed feeling of calm and terror. Calm because it reaffirms that the little bit of stuff that I've done recently is correct. Terror because I now realize that my dad had no clue what the hell he was doing when he wired up my childhood home and we just kinda got lucky codes and safety wise.
😂
i wonder why the USA isnt burned down yet.... because your wiring reminds me of 1910, not 2022!
The example of the early 1900s home is exactly everything I'm dealing with in trying to re-wire my house. Really appreciate all your videos here on these topics as they're helping me make sure that during my re-wiring projects I'm doing things properly and not leaving any "WTF was this guy thinking" for the next guy coming around. Also big thanks to all the electrical guys in the comments as well for their takes and additional information they add. After watching videos like these, I like to go to the comments section and browse around for other opinions on the matter as well and they've been a big help -- so all you folks leaving those comments I just want you to know you've been mega helpful as well in learning.
There is a 3rd advantage for the clamps at the knock-off hole in the side of metal boxes: It prevents pests to enter the box. A mouse can squeeze in very easily and create a short inside.
Almost any insect can do this.
@@outlet6989 True, but insects usually don't chew the insulation. Rodents do. Moreover, knock-off holes without clamps or cover (if already punched out and not used) will be a fail for any inspector worth their NEC... But I guess not everybody bothers to respect the NEC and having proper permits when doing that kind of work. FYI, this is a case of voiding insurance policies and adding some issues for a future sale of the property. Just sayin'.
The rodents prefer inside the boxes, they are great places for nests. Not only do they chew on the sheathing but the nests they build will collect moisture, not to mention the rodents will defecate and relieve themselves all over the connections.
@@wildpat03First they are NOT " knock-off holes" they are knock-out holes Yes... it is a code violation however NO !! "this is a case of voiding insurance policies " WTF "adding some issues for a future sale of the property"
Plastic boxes have all the extra strain relief built in. I’ve never had one fail after wiring. More of a chance to crack one during installation. Of course the selection of the type box should be based on application and how it will be used. A junction box in an attic space will never experience any vibrations. Unless of course you live in CA. :) Now if you’re wiring up a new wood shop, then the boxes, switches, fittings, etc should be more robust or industrial .
Ground screws are 10/32 not 6/32 as you stated. Also the best tool is a 5/16 nut runner.
What is a 5/32 nut runner? I never heard of that before? You mean nut driver? Where do you commonly see 5/32 nuts? I know 5/16" is popular as the ground screw with 10/32 threads have 5/16 hex head....Just curious?
@@mikenormandy9250 Yea I meant 5/16. Nut driver Nut runner same thing
@@bsmith8564 you're one of the reasons I now read the comments before commenting 😅
@@mikenormandy9250 I think he means a 5/16" spin tight
I agree a 5/16 Nut Driver is the best way to tighten the 10/32 ground screw to the j-box better than a Robbie screwdriver or slot screwdriver
Great video, thanks. I have run into the very same knob and tube switch installations as your example. Many times in the oldest houses I have worked on the switched wire in the knob and tube mess was the neutral. Of course the return from the fixture is live all the time as is the light fixture itself and wow does that lead to confusion when sorting things out. It always amazes me when I think that it has been working like that for 100 years or more,.... time to pull some romex.
Yeah, in my area there are still a good number of homes with K&T. It is actually very common to remove the K&T from the attic, basement, or crawlspace running new Romex to junction boxes and then using the old wiring going up/down through the wall to the switch and outlet boxes. I understand the time/cost motivation behind this but the results Frankenstein mess is not my favorite.
That's what I have now and everything on YT indicated I should be able to pull a receptacle off a switch in my bathroom. I didn't know both wires were hot. Needless to say I am now waiting to hire someone e to replace the last few K&T lines in older rooms. I was lucky, but YT videos should have mentioned that for all DIYers working in K&T houses! I finally found out from 1 video.
Glad you clarified the box grounding later on in the video because that is the first thing I noticed in your mock up at the beginning. Great video's!
1: GNH - HNG is the order ( Rule ) in which you assemble or de-assemble wiring. G= ground, N= Neutral, H= Hot. ( If the H is removed first then I always cap it first before proceeding ) 2: For looping wires around terminals always loop in the same direction as the screw turns.
Almost every diy channel makes this mistake. Don't know who's inspecting these but that's a fail around here
@Paul 1. G= ground, N= Neutral, H= Hot. ( If the H is removed first then I always cap it first before proceeding ) EXACTLY !! 2: For looping wires around terminals always loop in the same direction as the screw turns. For stranded and solid wire?
@@electroman982 Answer for 2: There are different types of receptacles, some have screws only and or holes and others have screws with clips/plate that will squeeze the wire together, I find the latter works best for stranded wire however in a pinch I will twist stranded wire so that they are less likely to separate when you screw them in (same direction as the screw turns). NOTE: DO NOT use the holes for stranded wire due to the way the hole method works to hold the wire in place you should not use it for stranded wire. Important NOTE: Wall receptacles are made and designed for standard indoor and in wall solid wiring and should only be used with solid wire as designed!
As the screw turns, wasn’t that a soap opera? Oh, no, wait…it was as the world turns. Sorry, and no I haven’t been drinking or smoking anything.
Speaking of mistakes I make all the time, even though I know better: don’t use the knockout that’s right next to the grounding screw tower. The wiring just gets in the way.
Amen
For those lock rings on the strain relief clamps, they actually sell a special wrench for them at your local hardware store. Look in the electrical tools section.
Your example of having an energized switch box reminded me of way back at the dawn of time, when I was entering the gas trade, there was an exam question which dealt with switching the neutral. Don't switch the neutral. One day very early in my career I discovered why. I was changing a belted fan motor. So I switched off the furnace switch, then immediately got lit up trying to remove the wiring. The light bulb went on, and it finally all made sense. Training is great, but without field experience, questions will remain.
I got lit up atop an aluminum ladder when I learned about yo-yo's who switched the neutral.
I've read a lot of people making something simple as grounding a metal box into a major issue. My grandfather who was a master electrician and maintenance engineer showed me years ago the simplest and cheapest method of box grounding. When you bring your "line" wire into the box be sure to feed an extra couple inches in length. Add your ground screw and when you separate your wires from the insulation press the ground wire down and loop it around the screw on the left side so as not to push it from under the screw when you tighten it. Then just pull up the end of the wire and bond it with the other grounds. Saves a pigtail and the additional wire in the box.
Nice tip.
Me being an IT tech that has done some of my own electrical... that to me makes the most sense and what I have done when rewiring a box. There is no reason to need to touch that grounding, unless you are changing out the feeding wire, keeps the box grounded, and leaves the end of the wire for whatever you are doing in the box.
In my area some inspectors frown on that. Also while I was still an apprentice a journeyman once pointed out that if you do do that it is possible that, when someone goes into the box at a later date, the ground might break during removal from the ground screw leaving you with a really ball bustingly small wire. So I always try to make sure I have 6" of wire before I wrap the ground screw when I use the middle wrap method.
@@newton9837 leave extra wire OUTSIDE the box on your wires such that if any of the wires break or burn off you can just pull some in from outside with out filling up your box with extra wire. That's how i was taught. I've been in far, far to many boxes with barely enough wire for what ever reason.
That’s how I was taught as well.
I recommend that you don't secure the box to the vertical board of the truss. Cut the wires at a longer length and secure the box to the webbing of the truss as to keep it unburied out of the insulation. That way you can access it with ease without having to fight the insulation. Plus, you know exactly where to go to access it. I sure hope you're putting covers on those boxes.
I think you wanted to say horizontal board instead of vertical. I agree. No fun scraping away a bunch of insulation to find the box.
That's what I do.
@@davidmccartney339 No. Vertical. Horizontal members get burried in blown in insulation!
@@steevemachine118 you didn't use your critical thinking. The op said not to secure it to the vertical board of the truss, which is wrong. It should be secured to the vertical board. David mentioned that the op should have said to not secure it to the HORIZONTAL board, and that it should be secured to the vertical board.
When no vertical board is available near the junction, I’ve actually added a vertical board to the truss in order to get the junction box above the insulation. Also, add height to take into account the homeowner adding extra insulation in the future. Last thing I want to do is dig around in fiberglass insulation.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been doing my own wiring for years I’ve never seen those plastic wire clamps, I like the idea. I was unaware of grounding the metal box. I prefer metal to plastic even though I’ve used a few over the years. I used the metal in hard to reach places such as attics or crawl spaces that I only want to crawl into one time. Thanks again for the video.
Yeah, that is pretty much exactly how I use the metal boxes as well 👍
The lever clamps are great but be careful of the knockoffs. At one time the WAGO units were the only ones UL listed. That may have changed but when it comes to electrical safety it's hard to beat a good known brand.
Yeah, always ground the box. Just use a pigtail like shown. Used in commercial every day, even when metal conduit is used throughout.
One important thing to mention about the plastic clamps is that there are two kinds. One kind can only be inserted from the outside, the other only from the inside. That's important because if you are running a new wire to a box that is already fixed in place and is drywalled in, and you plan to fish the cable through the inaccessible wall cavity, then you can only use the kind where the wire is fed from the inside. There will be markings on the connector which shows where the wire must be inserted from.
Make sure that’s where you want that wire before using that particular connector. It’s a booger to get the wire back out. They work good in panels. Can put them right next to each other.
great video. thank you. love this YT channel. this is one of my fav DYI/Home Improvement channels; purchased many of the things you've talked about.
First wires to connect in any ele box is ground. Still capable of learning (and willing to) 50 years after my first 'wire job' -- appreciate the share!
I've done a few DIY wiring projects, and metal boxes are my favorites. I've found stripped screw holes in plastic boxes several times. That problem is a lot less likely to happen in metal boxes. Your point about grounding the box is important. I've always done that because I like having all my connections inside a grounded metal box. Like you said, if anything ever comes loose in the future, it will just touch the box and trip the breaker, and then you will know that you have to investigate and find the cause of the trip.
How is it grounded when its mounted to a 2x4?
@@soundwave7678 through the ground wire that should be common in all wiring in newer installations. Older homes may be wired using wiring that only has 2 conductors. That can be a problem when trying to ground the boxes.
@@soundwave7678 You connect a wire to the box and then to the ground conductor from the supply cable. I'll typically use a short scrap piece of bare conductor to make that box-to-supply connection. Then the box connects all the way back to your house ground via the supply cable, and if a hot conductor comes loose and touches the inside of the box, the breaker will trip.
*may possibly trip the breaker. Or it may energize the entire box, or it may start a fire. Plastic boxes are far safer. The chances of them stripping out is negligible. Almost all plastic boxes have metal thread inserts. Thousands of boxes installed and interacted with, and I've only come across a few stripped ones in 25 years of work. The benefits far outweigh the downsides.
@@Mpg-gh5fq Could you explain your statement ? I understand previous reply referred to a two wire system that has no bare ground from the service panel. Are you talking about connecting a ground to the neutral then pigtailing it to the box?
Always learn what’s new in the industry watching you channel! Thanks for sharing!
I've seen people drive those 2 screw clamps right through the insulation on romex. I use them pretty much exclusively for connecting cords to garbage disposals or on cables that require knockouts larger than 3/4" trade size.
Interesting to see the differences between countries. Here in the Netherlands, we do not use metal junction boxes, only plastic. I've never come accross a metal junction box in DIY shops. Probably to avoid short circuiting the circuit via the junction box itself. The Wago connectors are gems, I use them a lot in industrial applications as well. We use different cables/wires as well. Never (flat) cable, only fully insulated wires for live, neutral, switch and ground. The wires are always run through flexible conduit.
yep same in France, in fact the whole regulations and code paradigm is totally different which leads to completely different technical solutions !
Even more specifically, in Germany (and most likely in many other European countries) the kind of plastic used is not only inflammable itself, it will even extinguish a flame inside. Instead of being a fire hazard, the plastic boxes become a part of fire protection. Using a metal box is something I hardly ever see here, and the way they are installed in the video above would be illegal. A metal housing with wires inside would always have to be connected to PE.
@Bastian Lipp it’s odd but in North America the words inflammable and flammable both mean they burn.
@@qwktube he did connect the box to PE later in the video.
@@qwktube Inflammable means easily ignited by heat or spark and capable of rapid burning, as opposed to flammable, which means easily ignited by flame and capable of sustaining fire.
2 things to mention about the grounding straps/wire pigtails with the screws attached... First off, the screw they use is NOT a 6-32 screw, (like the plastic cover face plates of switches and outlets use), but instead it is actually almost always a self tapping 10-32 screw. And the 2nd thing I was going to add is that those screws also usually can be driven into the hole in the metal boxes using a 5/16" hex driver tip. That is also a more reliable way to keep the screw straight and not get it crossthreaded, AND not to slip out of the screw head like especially a flathead screwdriver tends to do!
You've got that 100% my friend!
Can it be a 10-24 or 10-20 ??
@@electroman982 Unless you're just trying to be "funny", I will say that the reason that it's a 10-32 instead of a 10-24 screw is so that it has more threads holding into the relatively thin sheet metal of the back of the box, therefore allowing a slightly higher tightening torque before it strips out. Plus the fact that you just usually don't see self tapping 10-24 screws nearly as much as 10-32 ones. And as far as I am aware of, there is no such thing as a "10-20" pitch screw, especially not commercially available. That would be too coarse of a thread for such a relatively small screw diameter, and that would make the shaft of the screw much more prone to breaking when trying to tighten it.
" instead it is actually almost always a self tapping 10-32 screw. " ---- 100% correct.
Almost. The grounding screws aren't self tapping. The holes in the box are already threaded.
Very interesting n informative vid for our novice DIYers to prevent serious injuries n staying safe. Kudos. Sometimes we get lost in the explanations but try to keep focused n learn. Anticipating ur next one to assist us. Peace
Even though I knew all of these tips I can surly appreciate the work you have put into this video helping out the commen DIYer ... Subscribed!!
Thanks for encouraging people to ground their boxes. In all my years working in older homes the half assedness of some peoples electrical work has NEVER failed to astound, and shock me............ LOL.
Yeah, my father rewired a bad basement flexible-wire-hanging light-socket over a wash tub. He changed the black wire from the black screw to the white one. Now the socket shell was live instead of the filament. I checked this (secretly) too soon to get anyone (i.e., my mother) zapped. He never knew how electricity worked. And, he wanted me to have NO education beyond his three years! Oughta be a law!
@@Arthur172B there is nothing worse than finding out they have been switched the hard way, like when your computer is plugged into one outlet, and the stereo is plugged into another.... and you realize you can play music on the computer through the stereo...... THAT SUCKED.
Great info, as usual. Just one comment: I believe the grounding bump accepts a 10-32 screw.
Love your Milwaukee tool stackable full of Wago connectors! I've done the exact same thing! Super handy!
Thank you! Excellent video - you perfectly answered my question as to why its necessary to ground the handy box!
Two important points. Determine where your lines are going to come in on the box. Then rotate the box so the lines don't interfere with the placement of the ground screw. Mount the box first. Then run the wires. Second. You can use ground clips if you have a project in existing work and the old box has no threaded hole for a ground screw.. One last point. Always mount the appropriate cover for junction boxes. When you're done, use a permanent marker to indicate what purpose box services and what each wire is...power in, pass through, switch, outlet, appliance etc. This will be huge if you have a problem that someone else needs to address.
You can also write the number of the breaker it's on.
Yes! I was actually kinda disappointed he didn't mention the need for a cover. I've seen far too many boxes just left open after people were done with them, then all kinds of crap falls into them (possibly causing who knows what problems) or the wires/connectors/etc get bumped by people passing by, etc, and the connections get loose and start arcing, or etc, etc. One related thing I've seen too is just trying to stuff way too much into one box. If it's so packed full of wires/connectors that you can't actually put the cover back on it, *get a bigger box.* Sheesh...
@@foogod4237 The electric Code does prescribe how many wires are allowed in an electrical box. Wiring devices (switches, receptacles), pigtails, etc count, too.
@@jovetj Yeah, but arguably the whole point of all of these DIY videos is that most DIYers have never actually read the code so they don't know these things, and they need to be told...
No ground clamps. Don't be a hack and carry a 10-32 self drilling tap
Love all of WAGO's lever connectors. Very easy to use. Some 221 Series are even rated to 30A.
I am hesitant to use this wagos instead of Wire nuts. Wagos contact point are 50% only in contrast with the wire nuts. I only use these wagos for the control/low amperes circuits.
@@jimmydeloso6528 i work as industrial electrician for now 5 years, i have never seen one wago 221 that have failed. have seen several wire nuts fail tho, and some wago 773 with stranded wire that have failed.... wago is far better in almost every application.
@@jimmydeloso6528 I have same problem using receptacles for pass-thru 15amp & esp. 20amp circuits. Every take a duplex apart and see the flimsy internal connections? I use wire-nuts for all thru-crts with #14 pig tales for both 15 & 20amp. Code is permissive if not denied. More work, but easier to put device in box esp for #12 ---never have had a thru Crt power loss/connection.
I love the two speedropes behind your back. And good content too.
The Wago connectors are the best!!! Wire nuts are horrible. I had my fill of wire nuts popping off and twisting up wires. No more. Wago is the way to go. Very good tutorial, thank you! I have to replace one of these and my first concern is... how to make sure there is no power going to this box. Is it just the wall switch to turn off, or do I need to turn off a circuit breaker as well to make double sure? It looks very intimidating. KZhead University is so handy, I love it. ❣❣❣
Pro here, licensed Journeyman/Master Electrician, I like your way of tightening Romex connectors. I've never seen someone do that before. I usually d the same thing with my pliers, screwdriver would work better in most cases.
By reading your comment, it’s very clear you are no journeyman electrician. Or anywhere near a pro lol. Why you lying?
@@remodz6385 Whatever you say. I have no urge to prove myself to you.
@@remodz6385 A lot of electricians are job superintenants and don't actually go hands on.
@Craig Dendy I see that you're trying to make what I said look silly, so I'll explain what I said. The video creator usually asks questions of his audience to see whether they've learned something from his content. He usually asks whether we are professional or do it yourself. That's why I said "pro". In my jurisdiction, you are required to keep your journeyman license even after you obtain your master license to continue doing field work. That's why I said Journeyman/Master. I wanted to convey to the video creator that he is putting out useful content, even for those of us that think we know everything. And lastly, I never said I wire houses. Thank you for your time.
@Remodz, I'm a journeyman and mostly do residential, but the guys you're looking at are the ones doing cookie cutter homes. Most of their work is garbage. But since that's all you see you clump all residential electricians into one as if all are the same. But then again you may live in the ghetto and garbage work is probably all you see. I work on custom homes only. The price tags on them range from $2,000,000 to $10,000,000. My license also allows me to do commercial and industrial jobs as well and I do those jobs on occasion A GC decided to go with another electrical company one time and still regrets it because that company did garbage work.
Hey Scott! I found some push in metal ones. I've been using them a lot on the host I'm working on.
Very basic but much needed tutorial on metal boxes. Great job.
Thanks!
JoeJ8282 is correct - but these specific grounding screws are ALWAYS 10-32 screws, as is the grounding terminal hole in the box. The cover screws are 8-32, and device screws are almost all 6-32. The hex drive is a good idea too.
Although not exactly home repair related, your grounding story brought back a memory. At a 365 MW coal fired electric plant during one of our outages, a newly hired electrician was wiring up a 3 phase, 480 VAC motor and accidentally wired one of the energized phase wires to the motor ground connection and wired the grounding conductor to one of the phases. This did not trip the breaker when energized but the motor was not running at rated speed either. As the motor was no longer grounded, it caused the motor housing to be energized with essentially 277 VAC to ground. Luckily, before an employee touched it and died, we found out about it. The motor was located on the generator’s turbine deck and as someone drove the gantry crane down the turbine deck, a metal choker that was hanging from the hook brushed against the motor housing and welded itself to it before the breaker finally tripped on ground fault. I could write a book on the stupid stuff we managed to get away with in power generation. I once wired a 3 phase, 4160 VAC 1500 HP motor driving a huge fan with the wrong rotation. It ran backwards for six months before we could figure out why the airflow from the fan wasn’t correct.
Old coal plants are scary. One day job by myself. Was working in a relatively tight spot between flue ducts, there was a decent breeze, as soon as it calmed I got woozy. It was so loud nobody could hear me. Basically crawled out. Said something to the regular plant guys......'oh yeah, there's a pretty bad leak around there somewhere, we'll patch it next outage'. I don't miss it.
Love watching and learning, even though I have no intention of doing any electrical work any time soon.
I appreciate the support 👍
Great video and easily explained step by step to ground the box.
I highly recommend a 11 in 1 tool for the grounding screws, they tend to have the correct size hex socket built in and you can get the ground much tighter without stripping the head.
If Klein has a multi-bit, I'm buying it. Saves an enormous amount of time and frustration of not having the right tool over it's lifetime.
@@alz582 The only reason I don’t buy expensive tools is turnover. I lose too many.
@@TomCee53 I hear you there! Not so bad with my own tools. But I'm sure not putting 15 multi-bits out in the field with my guys. They're gone like candy inside the week.
@@alz582 I have 81 employees and almost never have any tools go missing. Tools are checked out when the employee is hired, and returned and checked in before they receive their last paycheck. They lose it, they buy a new one. I'm my trucks and trailers, the super is responsible for the tools. If they give a tool from the trailer to an employee, the employee needs to check it back in with the super.
Note from the UK: metal junction boxes are supposed to be non-combustible, and firesafe. The bushings used in this video don't actually close the box so are not firesafe. In the UK we use intumescent grommets.
@@crusherfang9368 I see the xenophobic Americans are out in force, the ones who don’t realise KZhead is an international platform 😂😂 My comment was a point of interest, not a complaint
Mat, US electrics are scary af mate. The fact that full rewire how to videos are on a channel called "Everyday Home Repairs" tells you everything you need to know. Whilst he sounds like a dick, Crusher Fang has a point... stay well away from this sh*t
@@richnorman7325 I saw far more dodgy wiring during my 4 years in the UK than in the US, though that could be because I spent a lot of time on farms.
Really good video. Recently did work in the attic and was told to ground the metal box with the added ground wire. This person called it “bonding” the metal box. ??? Thanks again.
A free tip for ya. If you do use those led lights to retrofit you will want to use the metal screw down clamps/connectors. The reason is when you go to replace those lights when they burn out (they do very often go bad) you will have a very hard time pulling your wire back out with those plastic push thru pieces. You will most likely need to cut your wire and start new. I recently ran into this and I made sure I used the screw down pieces on the new light fixtures so next time I won't be fighting with the easy and convenient plastic junkers.
Just don't buy them on Amazon and they'll last a long time.
It's very easy to just lift up the plastic tab with the tip of a screwdriver and pull the cable out of the box.
For your viewers, Use green ground screws only. They are the only thing allowed in NEC. Drywall, zinc coated, deck, self tapping and other types of screws are not listed and approved for the purpose.
Lol I saw a new guy try to use 14/2 clamps and 3/4 self tappers to strap a wire on the bottom of a joist. I just tugged on it and his hr of work fell apart. Self tappers are not meant to anchor ANYTHING!
If the grounding screws are not green, there is no point in carrying a handfull of screws just to replace them. I am quite "by the book" when doing electrical work, but not that fussy! 😆
@@jonr4721 all ground screws are self tapping screws. Those green screws that screw into the box... Self tapping screws. There are no threads cut into the box, and the green screw cuts its own threads. Maybe you mean self drilling screws?
Exactly where in the NEC does it state a screw used to attach and equipment grounding conductor to a metal box have to be green in color. A requirement to that effect exist in the NEC for ‘devices’ but not for general use. The most important Code requirement is….fasteners that engage not less than two threads. It is permissible to use a nut and bolt. There is no color requirement.
@@jonr4721 what do you think self tapping screws are for then?
I like the bit about your failure to ground. A few years back I called in an inspector because some electricians had not properly installed some LED fixtures. While he was at it he looked at the boxes that were open, and sure enough the same idiots had manage to not connect the ground to the box properly.
great video. I like the technique using the screwdriver to secure the strain relief to the box.
One issue I have is how you are bottoming out the screws on the connectors. They need to be snug but not crush the wires. This causes issues later down the road, especially with arc fault breakers.
😂 Another example of needing a 4 port Wago 221-X14. I see a trend and a need in the market, lol. Just calling it like I see it. Gimme a 4 conductor port already Wago!!!
At least they're making single inline splices now. A 3x and 4x inline would be nice to have. Someone posted a video about a 3x inline counterfeit WAGO, not the 221 style. After seeing tests of these 20 amp rated WAGO 221 connectors shrugging off 60 amps like it's nothing, I'm sold. They're especially nice for all those light fixtures with stranded wire that's so bleeping difficult to get to stay into a wire nut with solid wire. Even nicer for connections that need 3+ wires into one wire nut, and the wire nut has to be put on 5 or 6 times before all the wires get sufficiently grabbed so none fall out. With a WAGO it's flick, flick, flick and it's all together fast and frustration free. I bought a big assortment box of WAGO 221 connectors and every time I open up anything in the wiring here, off come the wire nuts to get replaced with WAGOs.
Go to Lowes and buy a bag of them, then! 4-hole wagos are all I use. Oh, you mean the lever ones. Sorry, no levers.
Found a rather good knock off wago that has 4 ports. Amazon sometimes provides grand things.
I don't trust those wagos except for maybe a light fixture. Nothing using high current
@@willschultz5452 European countries do trust them, to the point where some have banned the twist on wire nuts.
You make great concise videos. Good to see that you humbly brought up the fact that you did not initially ground the 4 S metallic box. All the best!
I've learned a lot of tricks from you channel - thank you and keep it up!
I think I've never seen in my whole lifetime a metal box here in Europe. Interesting to see you guys still use that much (as it seems).
Mostly used in commercial where you run MC cable and emt conduit into them.
what do older houses use that were built before plastic?
@@ranger178 some sort of fiberglass I believe
@@ranger178 I guess there were (and may occasional still are) houses that used metal. But the real old stuff I've seen was in such cases bakelite, a plastic invented in 1905. E. g., if you see old phones (the ones with rotary dials) from the 1920s / '30s, thats mostly bakelite already.
@@flowablesysadmin8068 i have seen some old electrical stuff use Bakelite and ceramic but every old house i have seen here from 1800s till late 1900s had metal boxes. new homes started using plastic sometime in 1980s i think can't remember when i first saw it used. Britain invented Bakelite so i guess that's why they used it for electrical
I noticed something in your junction box that I was taught to do differently. I am not an electrician, but a DIYer who has done tons of wiring and electrical work, however. When I connect wires inside a box, I was taught to connect the grounds first so they lay on the bottom, the neutrals second and lastly, the hots (like I would do inside of an electrical panel). I see that your wires are the opposite and I'm not sure if it really makes a difference....
That is a good habit to get into. I taught my apprentices to "stack" their wires in a box that way when they make up. Reason: Most likely in troubleshooting, the circuit wire you'll be interested in will be the hots.
All 3 are in different corners of the box. None are on top of another one. Hot is in the upper left, neutral is in the upper right, and ground is on the bottom.
Awesome video! Will retain this knowledge in case I ever move from a Weekend operational to an Everyday operation. :)
Great video, a lot of my work is diagnosing and correcting improper junction wiring and proper securing, sadly mostly NEW construction. .. love seeing the brand Wago connectors, I've stocked them for many years. FYI, they are pronounced "Vah-go".
Just say a four square that was used as a J-box with the hot feeding seven 12's with a wire nut. One 12 had pulled from the wire nut causing a horrible heat situation. Homeowner.... I smell something burning can you fix it? Sadly this was ain a six year old house in a neighborhood where there were over 100 identical houses. I'd bet that they are all wired this way.
@@1southsoon ugh, yes, nothing surprises me anymore. Found a 220v outlet with a missing line (after a year), the breaker tightening screw was never tightened, then I fould all of them were barely snug... 101 stuff, 50k electrical bid... # Mondays....
I don’t know about anyone else but I find it a lot easier to strip back the sheath to the correct length before pulling it inside the box. That way you have more control of your knife and you not all cramped up working inside a small space.
it is 10 times easier. with a knife you risk cutting the sheathing.
That’s how we do it in the field in MN.
I agree. I always strip the sheath before inserting the romex into the box or connector. Easier and much less chance of nicking the conductor insulation.
Since it's a video meant for those who may not have used these items before, you might add commentary about when to choose a rounded box vs a square, sharp[er] edge one, and the different types of cover, receptacle, extension, and mud plates available
I just found a 2 1/2" oct. box in my basement ceiling crammed with old wire. I need to add a pass-thru box so I can unpack it and trace the overpacked conduit. The joys of living.
Hello Everyday Home Repairs! Yes Metal boxes wherever possible to many things are plastic these days like those wire connectors You have used I liked the black Marettes they are Bakelite which handles heat much better ( hard to find now ) even those have changed to the plastic now all these push in methods like back wired receptacles are just a problem in waiting a properly applied marrette twists the wires around each other and makes a far better connection! Cheers!!! Rick Armstrong Aurora Ontario
Thanks for this video. I realized I had forgotten the ground screw in my new metal J box after I watched this.
One thing worth noting, is metal boxes tend to be a bit safer, from a fire hazard standpoint. Real life example: my step dad lives in a mobile home, built in 1973. That said, the home was originally wired with aluminum, throughout the home, as was typical of that period. When he brought the home he was experiencing flicker light, sometimes bulbs would get very bright and pop, while others grew dim. He rewired the entire home with copper, after a breaker tripped and refused to reset. While also replacing the galvanized iron plumbing the same time we did the electrical as we had to open up some walls anyway, we found the issue causing the short. A metal junction box against a charred stud in the wall buried under wood paneling, a copper and aluminum junction, evidence of a fire inside the J box. Had it been a plastic box the place most certainly would have went up in flames. Good idea to watch out for shady work done by previous occupants.
Plastic stuff made for working with electricity usually do not burn
You know what woud be better than metal box that will shock you when you touch it bakelite that plastic that was used by comies... Never mind In amuruca using popular commie thing like public transport is illegal
@@timofeifilippov9558 won't burn but it'll melt
@@MadLadCustoms since it won't burn, it is not a fire hazard.
There are a couple of things that I do differently, I prefer a small slip joint plyer for tightening the locknut and I prefer ground clips. The only time I use a screwdriver to tighten the locknut is if there is no room. Also, the plastic-sheathed cable connector is my preferred connector for the additional reason that I can run two cables through one knockout.
I often run 2 cables through the same clamp connector by laying them on top of each other. The 3/8 clamp as shown in the video work perfectly for 2 14-2 cables.
conversely, I hate ground clips.
@@dlwaterloo2221 I seem to remember that's against Code.
@@jovetj not with a proper metallic connector with a flat restraining screw.
First time I've seen your videos... I'm glad it came up... I've never seen WAGO connectors before and I have a small lighting project in my garage so I just placed an order through the link you provided to your Amazon page. Can't wait to give them a try. I really hope they grab the wire securely.
They do but I prefer wire nuts
Thanks. I was wondering what the recessed bump in the box was about, and I hadn't thought of grounding the metal box itself. Back into the attic I go...
As a retired ex-sparky in Australia, can I make some observations? Most junction boxes in use in Australia are the plastic type especially in home installations. Metal junction boxes are usually used in industrial situations where steel conduit is used instead of plastic, for better protection against damage. Earth(or grounding wire as you call it in the US) is ALWAYS insulated stranded cable. I have been out of "the game" for 20 years or so and at that time - and I think it is till the same at the present time - single strand was not allowed for earthing. Over here single stranded cables were being phased out. Your illustration of the junction box shows uninsulated earth cable, also a no-no here and connections in earth connecters have to be 2 screw connecters, normal "hot" cables as you call them, can be single screw connectors. I expect if there any other Aussies looking at this comment, I stand to be corrected, as I said at the start I have been out of it for about 20 years, so I won't take offence if any one corrects me as I am not up with the current electrical regulations.
Earth cable, within the Romex jacket is an uninsulated lead.
Well, thankfully, we're not in Australia...
Plastic sucks for anything that isn't set and forget or where conditions too corrosive for galv'd steel. Plastic has no toughness and distorts and strips out too easily. Has no business in electrical applications where some structural integrity and durability is required. It's usage is synonymous with the designed to fail, one use, under engineered, throw away society the world has devolved into
@@xenuno Obviously the USA doesn't have the strict manufacturing codes and practices that we do in Australia & New Zealand.
@@hawthornvalley O really? .. and no it's not obvious. Bet your Made in China hardware comes from same factories as our Made in China hardware. Identical even for common items I'm sure. An interesting observation I've made through the years is how tyrannical and meddling the governments are in these low population countries like Aus, NZ, and Canada nearby. Another is how accepting the populations are of such government intrusions in general. Guess you guys didn't achieve independence from the British Empire early enough to thoroughly erase it's cultural influence.
Love the wagos, although it still baffles me why they don't make a 4 pin, instead making you jump from a 3 to a 5 just to connect 4 wires.
@Ira Whattaburger. but not the 221 lever wagos
@@DarrenGerbrandt Yes, be careful, I only buy the lever -reusable style
Strain relief can also be assisted by looping slack into each cable and securing to the wooden stud.
awesome, I stuck with plastic boxes because of wasnt sure how to ground them, I do now, thanks, the steel ones are better for the reasons you mentioned and how you use the tension built in.
Re-wiring my whole bedroom now, all in MC. You wouldn’t believe the hack job wiring I found. No wire nuts, ungrounded, no strain reliefs, used bent finish nails for staples, a mix of old fabric wires, Romex and EXTENSION CORDS! Criminally incompetent.
Good lord, yeah I am worried about a lot of the new homeowners over the past year. To get offers accepted in many markets they had to bypass inspections (not that inspection catch all issue) so not sure they know what they are getting into especially when buying older homes with all sorts of work done by a wide variety of experiences over the years 😬
@@EverydayHomeRepairs why do you promote an anti-union anti-human company?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I bought a fixer upper built in 1963. I did have an inspection but even that is only as good as the inspector and remember, these guys work for the realtors. Since I am an electrical type, I have replaced all switches, receptacles and my panel. I was in the attic just yesterday, OMG I about crapped. Someone used an extension cord, splices using cloth tape, etc.....the wiring in the house is mostly #14/2 w/grd. But the grd wire is like an #18 gauge. Its more of a bonding conductor than a ground wire. Under a short circuit the grd conductor would experience a high level of electrical stress (if thats a good term)....Basically, the electrical system WAS a mess....mostly fixed as best it can be....love the videos...
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yup, about to close on a new (to me) home and one of the things I'm going to be doing is bringing out an electrician. It looks like one of the previous owners installed a 60 amp breaker in a box that has a max limit of 50 amps per breaker. It looks like they were running some high watt power tools through the garage, but those connections are no longer there. In my current home that I'm getting ready to sell, I've changed out literally every switch and every outlet. WAGO connectors throughout, new GFCI outlets. Even installed some new junction boxes in the attic and ran new romex to create a simple on/off switch for a garage light. What I found was an old pull string light with a broken grounding wire that fed an ungrounded exterior non GFCI outlet that then piggy backed to a high watt external flood light that had loose wire nuts and was not installed into a junction box. I'm honestly shocked it hadn't started a fire yet. Appreciate all your videos - looks like I need to head back into my attic to make a minor change to my junction box install based on this video.
My daughter bought a house last year in a rural area with a small outbuilding. Someone used two extension cords to get power to the back corner for a floodlight. Used duct tape on the splice. Charred insulation showed that was not appropriate. Seller had disconnected the feeder at the panel, I could see why!
00:20 I wouldn't say plastic boxes are inferior. I'm an Electrican in Germany and you will have a hard time finding a metal box in any house or even a home depot (yet still, we have a verry well working system over here). It is just a different philosophy. In North America, you seem to use mostly metal boxes and metal installation tubes which you then connect with each other and the ground system and secute it with a GFCI. In Germany on the other hand, the ground system is only connected with the potentional metal housings of devices via the PE pinns of the power sockets (which is then secured by an RCD). All tubes and boxes are made out of plastic so that in case of a lose hot wire, no ground fault can happen because everything is insulated. From what I have seen it also seems that PVC Boxes are way easier to make water proof becuase the wholes are usually made out of a rubber material that tightfits any cable you might stick through it. I guess the stability argument is in parts true, however I have never seen a wireing box break before (how often do you really step on those?) so I'm not sure how important that feature is... on top of that PVC pipes and Boxes are way easier to work with and lighter. I don't want to say that the american system is bad or that the european system is better. They both work perfectly fine when done right. All i say is just that PVC Boxes are not inferior but only different and that you need to keep different things in mind when working with either of them...
The main reason why New York City requires metal boxes and conduits, it's so rats don't chew threw the wire insulation.
That was a great video and thank you for making this effort. Greetings from Arizona.
Also a nut driver can tighten the ground screw. Thanks for the tips and the reference to an ECX.
i feel like the problem with those inline connectors is it's going to encourage people to not leave slack for the next person to work on as well as making it much easier to pull a splice out totally. always remember to have at least 6in of conductor free once it enters the box. also, if you aren't sure about having enough room for a junction box, you can always get a deeper one or an extension ring for an existing box.
If out of space.... box is being used as a subpanel, just without breakers.... but protect your junction box! You can put a porcelain edison socket on as a cover, and put a glass plug fuse on it! . The pull chain is a whole nother matter!
These inline connectors have their space. For example in case of a damaged cable you cut the cable, install a junction box and use these inline connectors to reconnect everything properly. And in that case you don't have any slack. Faster than changing a whole cable run. At least that's for what we use them here in Germany in most cases.
I also label the box with the circuit number.
probably already mentioned, the ground screw will accept a 5/16" nut driver.
Yep, I much prefer using nut drivers when I can. 11 in 1 screwdriver are pretty nice for this reason, though they can be a bit irritating if you have to continually switch bits a lot.
Many people don't understand that those screwdrivers with exchangeable bits, is when the bits are removed, the hollow shafts become ¼ and ⅝ sockets. Very handy if you don't want to carry around a bunch of tools. You are correct about changing the bits often though.
I watched another one of your videos where you showed using a screwdriver, but you also mentioned a tool, and I had never heard of the tool, so I bought three different sizes. I've always done it with the screwdriver, but I think I will hopefully prefer the little wrenches.
I live in Canada. All our 4x4 and metal boxes have 10/32 screws. Good video and I have seen this myself on job sites yes. As for me and a different talk I do not use a device as a junction point. Example a receptcal. It has four screws. I do my wiring in the boxes then hook the plug up with a pigtail to the wiring in the box . So that the plug can be replaced without disruption of anything else plugged into other plugs in the line fed by that breaker. Watch for box fill and it is Extra work .
I had to laugh when you said there’s a bunch of different junction boxes at the store to choose from. At my Home Depot they have been very scarce since Covid hit. Another one of those supply issues. Some metal boxes now and then, but plastic ones are no where to be found.
Downey, CA. H.Depot has the plastic boxes but not the metal ones,nor the mud rings or at least the ones I needed.
@Not Bono prices may vary due to gas prices on the rise.
yes, it used to be a sea of blue boxes. No more.
In east-Texas, Lowes is wiped out of junction boxes, while Home Depot has alot.
If you have an old installation with ungrounded metal boxes and you are replacing an ungrounded receptacle with a GFCI one, then in case of the box becoming live the voltage will go through the ground wire to the equipment case. The GFCI will NOT cut the power. If it happened in a receptacle chained to the load side the GFCI will work.
if you are replacing an old receptacle and the wires come in contact with a tree you are at very high risk of getting struck by lightning three or four times in your lifetime.
If the gfci detects a current diferrence of 0.5 uA between hot and neutral, like if the box becoming live and you touching it, then the gfci will trip. My guess for the situation you described, your using a plug in tester. It likely wouldn't trigger the gfci because it probably shorts the neutral to ground to test the gfci and the ground pin on the receptacle is a dead end. If, however you touched it and it were energized while you were grounded, it would detect the decrease of current on the neutral and pop so you don't get electrocuted.
I have been watching + subscribed to your channel and love how you calmed and explained at the speed that to can catch and understand you perfectly. Thx you!
Thanks for the feedback Austin 👍
Just recently found out about Wagos, love them great idea.
The NM cable (Romex) has to be secured within 6" of the box connector. Use a wire staple suitable for NM cable nailed into the 2x lumber. . Read the code. Use a box with sufficient volume. If you need more room use a box extension. And of course, use a 4x4 metal box cover when done.
You are mistaken. The two basic requirements for securing nonmetallic sheathed cable are: Metallic boxes with cable clamps (factory or field installed) within 12-inches of the box. Nominal 2” x 4” nonmetallic boxes, within 8-inches of the box.
When purchasing metal boxes, note that they come in different combinations of knockout sizes, patterns and side locations. Know beforehand which your application needs. Here the box he showed had a large knockout in the center. They do come with, for example, all 1/2" on a side. Some will have a mix of combinations. Not all supply sources will carry all available combinations so if you need something different, look around.
If a UL Listed box has 1/2" ko's can you knock one out to 3/4" ??
@@jovetj Sorry to say you are incorrect...you can not enlarge the hole...it is a code violation! And your link is not valid...
I like those connectors. so easy to use, would save so much time, and looks great.
I always appreciate your content. You are a great teacher. What camera are you using to film this? It’s super sharp.
There's a situation I encountered during a job I was doing deserves to be mentioned. It was a case of a metal junction box that was fixed to the bottom baseboard on the rear wall of a closet. A friend of mine during a flooring job was using his edging sander to do the sides. When the (grounded) metallic body of the edger touched the junction box, there was a spark and the breaker in the panel tripped. So he called me and asked if I could come over and check it out. I knew right away that a live wire was somehow coming in contact with the body of the junction box but I didn't understand how the breaker did not simply stay tripped 100% of the time as it should have in this situation. Answer: the box itself was not grounded. I opened it and then checked all the connections and could not see any live wires coming in contact with the box. But the ohm-meter (breaker off of course) told me there was definitely continuity between the box and the live wire. Then I decided to loosen one of the connector's strain relief bar screws.... And lo and behold: the short was was gone. I had my answer. The electrician who did the job simply tightened the screws so much on the connector that the metal went through the Romex sleeve and the live wire's insulation. Thank goodness there was enough loose length in the Romex cable than I was able to pull it further into the box otherwise this could easily have turned into a major re-wiring nightmare. Lesson learned: There IS such a thing as over-tightening a connector strain relief bar. Make sure it's tight but don't overdo it. That situation was a MAJOR electrical hazard especially in the case of a toddler crawling into a closet and touching an exposed metal box that is installed at floor level!!
How would the baby get shocked from a hot metal box? You providing a good ground in the closet to go with the hot box?
@@fauxque5057 A wet floor is all it takes. The goal behind my post was to reinforce the importance of adequately grounding the box itself (and not just connecting the ground wires together) as mentioned by the author of the video. If the electrician had properly grounded the box as he should have, the breaker would have tripped immediately when he tried to turn it back on after the box was installed. He would then have been forced to troubleshoot and correct his own mistake instead of passing the buck to the next guy and getting paid to be the cause of a hazard (which as a professional I find particularly infuriating). I don't mind hard work and challenging jobs but I HATE having to correct other people's mistakes. Especially ones that shouldn't have happened in the first place.
it happens. Was chasing a gremlin on a job that me amd a buddy were doing as a favor, and the bathroom circuit kept tripping. someone over tightened the connector. Remember you just need it tight enough that the romex doesn't move when pulled moderately. It doesn't have to so tight it can support your weight if you hang from the wire. Besides the first staple will help to prevent the romex from moving.
I have run into these over-tightened screws many times over the years, mostly on generator transfer switches. Usually, it was on the control wires, where they shouldn't be using Romex in the first place.
@@fauxque5057 go up and touch a live wire, and see if you get shocked. You don't need to be touching a ground wire, you don't need to be bare footed, you don't need any of that. Most of the time, you'll get a shock regardless.
I'd like to point out that another reason for bonding metal boxes and conduits to ground is for fire protection. Especially if you have a lot of metal conduits and boxes there is no telling where current might find a path to a lower potential and create a fire through resistance. This also makes sure that everything metal all has the same potential so you don't end up getting shocked from just touching two different metal bodies (hint: don't ever remove the ground prong from any appliance for this reason). Forgive me if none of that makes sense because I am fighting the flu and passing the time by watching KZhead.
hm, how about to not use metal??
@@Arltratlo I think the only other non flammable option would be ceramic right?
Nice tip on the use of a metal box plus that plastic strain relief connector. I’m a little bit impatient or frustrated with all the work of using the metal clamp strain relief.
Thanks! for mre it was a good video because you do not only show the things, you explain the why´s !
My Number One beef with DIY electrical work is GFI outlets and dimmer switches. These devices are bulky and often will not fit into existing wiring boxes. In those cases where we absolutely had to upgrade, I have ripped the old box out of the wall and installed a deeper box, along with dry wall repair. Pain in the behonkus!
Exactly, there is no need not to make the boxes 3" deep. Some of the plastic ones even have an extension to the side to tuck the wires into. Working with #14 is easy, #12 a pain, and #10 PITA.
It's my understanding that electrical code (Ontario, Canada) requires junction boxes to be easily accessible and not concealed behind drywall, either in the wall or ceiling. With that in mind, should any junction box be attached to a roof truss as shown at 1:40? This has always been my understanding. I needed a few junction boxes when I finished my basement 10 years ago, and have a few white cover plates in the ceiling where they were installed.
they can't be covered by insulation, as I understand it. In an older home, as depicted here, a 2x6 joist will usually be exposed above the insulation in southern states in the US, from my experience (2x4 ceiling joists are generally too low). until the homeowner blows in additional insulation, burying the boxes, at least. as some have suggested, use the roof truss webbing to keep them elevated above the expected insulation levels
If it’s in the attic it’s accessible
@@pgood7266 Thats my take. In the US it doesn't mention "easily", which is too vague. To some people, getting in the attic aint easy. Hell, to some people getting down on the floor or ladder isn't easy :) I have put my share of JBs into technically accessible but tight places, but I always took the time to make the splices bulletproof.
@@efthegop8000 that’s weird if you can’t put junction boxes in the attic in Canada, that make things a lot more difficult
@@efthegop8000 The code doesn't state anything about "easily". In the NEC it states that junction boxes shall be "accessible" (which yes, means they can be in an attic) other items in the code need to be "readily accessible" which means you should not have to get on a ladder to service it.
My dad used to say 650dc2 Bridgeport's. :D I was always taught to wrap the ground screw with the supply ground then twist all the grounds together, copper crimp then wire nut.
Here in Michigan, a contractor bidding for flood repair told me that my metal boxes would have to come out as they are not allowed in residential wiring. That makes no sense to me except maybe to avoid the "hot box" situation. They also did not like that the power came into the garage and then the house was a sub panel off of that small main panel.
Definitely something not being told here.
Guy sounds like a idiot (mis-spelling intended)
Wires as they heat and cool (when current is and then isn't flowing), will expand and contract. This expansion and contraction will work free outlet screws, and strip insulation from the wires over less time than you might imagine.
🤦🏻♂️
Nice tip regarding the Wago connectors. I’d not heard of those. Thanks!
They aren't that good.
I'm an old school electrician I always use screw type romex connectors for connecting wires to boxes, panels, and fixtures! Takes I little more time but makes a solid commenting! I also twist my wires together with my linesman pliers prior to putting on wire nuts! Taps and splices are weakest connection in a circuit why cut corners! People pay me to do a good job, they deserve the best I can provide! I don't thing they would be concerned about a little more cost in time when I'm done!!!
Twisting the wires with linesman pliers is something I am so happy I learned. I have been able to just pop wires out of a wire but that were not pre twisted.
I'm with you on the twisting of the conductors. I got called in front of the whole class out by the teacher when I was in school when I said the wire nut can do the twisting. The Ideal company does make a wire nut called the Twister. It's supposed to do the twisting, and they do work, but they don't twist the wires as tight as I can with my linesman. Before I ever cap a connection, I want to know it's a solid one.
Another mistake by homeowners, is not to put the cover on. Putting the cover on helps discourage mice and bees from nesting in the box. It's also why you use the clamps. A mouse nesting in the box, is a bit alarming, the first time you see it, because they bring flammables into the metal box.
Not really why u put a cover on lol but ok
Rodents are always a problem, even if the boxes are closed. They usually chew up the sheathing and the PVC insulation of the cables until you got spots of exposed copper causing ground faults.
I never use the metal boxes - my reasoning is that if there ever is a fire the box will melt but such a fire is a total destruction anyway - the wire will be completely destroyed first - The benefit of a plastic electrical box is not needing the step to ground it and no risk of conducting if any connections are compromised for whatever reason - big thank you for your videos; I learn from them every time
Benefit of the grounded metal box is that if something live does get loose, it touches ground, pops the breaker, and let’s you know right away that something is wrong. Then you won’t have a potential loose connection caused fire waiting to happen years later. Also those clamps on a metal box are bombproof. If you snag your foot or a tool on a wire that is clamped onto the box, the wire ain’t moving, and no damage can occur inside the box. The plastic boxes don’t seem so robust. I think you are more likely to cause wires to move inside if you push/pull accidentally.
In my country it is standaard : everything is plastic and we don't use cable but pvc tubing (5/8'') to guide wires through witch makes te system beter to make changes, you can always get an extra wire in, not with cables. But than again, we don't have these typical amirican hollow walls, we have normal walls where you don't punch a hole in with a cotton swab.
Metal boxes are rated better to handle a fire, and will melt a lot slower than plastic. There’s a reason why plastic is mainly used only in resi... it’s cheaper
@@jasonji1900 I agree. I want it popping the breaker if something goes wrong.
Good concise explanations. Nicely done - thanks.
I always use the metal boxes. I also use the same type of clamps that you used. I have not tried the wire connectors that you show. I use a Buchanan crimper with the copper sleeves and rubber boots. My father in law taught me how to do home electrical work. I did have a short pop up 1 month after installing a switch. Flip the switch and pop the breaker. I traced it to a tiny burr on the inside of the wire clamp on the box. I always check them now.