Sometimes The Repair is Better Than the Original........Drop the Mic...
2024 ж. 26 Сәу.
20 058 Рет қаралды
This video documents the solution for the base receiver to lead screw misalignment. The final product looks great. Take a Look !!
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Having been a scale replicator in wood, I can fully appreciate your expertise in handling metal pieces. You are a master!
Thanks. Lots of practice. :)
That's indeed a very creative solution. And you're right. The repair is better than the original.
Your solution to the problem with the boss worked beautifully. Thanks Joe.
Thanks for another great video. God should have had someone like you around when he was designing human beings ❤
Nice to watch somebody, who knows how to do things. Great tricks.
Nice attention to detail as usual but it's what we expect from you Joe. Thanks for sharing. J
Wow better than the original cast boss.. The brass nut insert looks awesome !
I think you always make them better when you build them. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Almost all of my repairs are better than the original. However, I have also created chain-reaction breakages from overbuilding the replacement parts.
Graet repair can't tell it wasn't original thanks for sharing
Thanks. Thats a great compliment when something looks like it belongs there.
Lots of experience is obvious all the mistakes of the past opens the eyes to make the job better and quicker
Extra work yes - but, for sure this is definitely way more sophisticated now and super job on the knee leadscrew - great result Joe. :)
Man it seems like there is a lot more porosity to that surface than there was when you initially milled it! I kept thinking it was dirt. That was certainly an elegant solution to the misalignment of the lead screw. 👍👍
Hey Joe, would love a short video about why you finished that pocket conventional on one side but climb milling on the other. Good stuff. Thanks!
Do you want a 74 year old apprentice, another great video.
Beautiful work - and a very effective and elegant solution to the boss. Definitely better than the original. Goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) as to the genius of the support tool for threading / parting. I made one using small bearings but it really doesn't work very well - a simpler guide like yours supports better.
OK Joe, my hat is now getting vertically challanged and I conceed that your solution justifies more self pride than welding a blob onto the casting and milling it back to be dimensionally true. I am inspired as usual.
Nice video Joe, as always. Over here in the UK, I used to work in an electrical engineering company. The material that you used for the lathe jig, was known to us as 'Tufnol', which was actually a trade name for SRBF (Synthetic Resin Bonded Fibre). We used to us a cheaper cousin of this material - SRBP (Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper) that we incorrectly called 'bakelite'. Useless fact of the day: Ford in the UK and Germany, used an SRBF gear in the valve timing set in V6 engines. This was done to reduce noise. Apparently, if you replace the gear with a steel one, the engine will whine like a Karen...
Yes, I've seen gears made from this material to be a sacrificial, wear item cheaper to replace than the mating components.
@@petemclinc Harrison used one in the leadscrew gear train, I'm not sure why, possibly sacrificial in case of a jamb-up.
All 4 facts perfectly true. .
I have a 18 inch shaper in my shop.. the table lift screw sticks out the bottom of the machine almost a foot when all the way down. So I had to drill and sleeve the floor so it had room to go down.
Once again , proof that anything can be repaired or reengineered. Well done Joe!
I’m so proud of you, uncle Pie! I remember when you were just a little boy, asking me everything about machining, now look at you being a big KZhead sensation!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 It doesn’t hurt to wish! Excellent video and, as always, with real world explanation on why do you do things the way you do! Thank you very much for sharing your vast knowledge with us poor mortals!
I'm a bit surprised you didn't drill that out before screwing it in to avoid the hole in the base, given it was possible once it was a separate part.
Always enjoy your work arounds. Thanks for your time and skills!
What surprised me is that Joe didn't make the head of the bushing a "tombstone" shape to match the lug with an 'anti-rotation' flat. It only would have taken another day of set-up and machining to blend into the lug profile. 😁
I considered it, but have never seen anything but round bronze bushings under a bridgeport table for the knee screw.
Joe, You Are The Man......thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, Paul in Central Florida
Thanks for watching Paul. Always good to see a comment from ya.
Well done Joe, or should I say, "the master of expedient modification".
"Doing what you can, with what you got." Great looking solution to that issue! 👍
100% better than the plans.
You are amazing my friend!
I ask myself "what would Joe Pie do ?" all the time .
I'm flattered. Thank you.
I think I'll make a shop sign reminder for that,
Always a joy to watch your work, with or without unloosening something :-)
i love it when a plan comes together... cheers ben.
Beautiful! Work of art.
Fantastic stuff as usual, thanks for your efforts.
100% right the fix does look a lot better than the original ! Thanks for the lesson on how to turn an “Ah Sh$$ “to an “AWESOME “ 😉 !
I like that.
Hi Joe, another enjoyable video. I've started a book, I've titled it "Joe's Jigs and Setup Tips" I try to add something with every video of yours that I watch! Learning while watching is a great thing, keep 'em coming! I'll keep watching!!
Wonderful! By far better than the original.
Very nice.
As always a great lesson in fixturing and shop pra😊ctice. Thanks much Joe.
Another fantastic tutorial from the master. Thanks from Australia
Thanks Joe
impressive, as usual. Cheers!
Great fix,Joe.Thank you.
My god Joe is there anything you can't do in a machine shop. Beautiful
Many thanks.
B E A utiful work Joe. Thanks for the video. Regards from Wales
Beautifully solved! Great idea with the sand blasting, too!
Another great video from the master thank you Joe .
Thanks again
looks much better than the origional part
Good thinking nice fix excellent
You always amaze me,You the man!
Hello Joe! 12:26 A lefthand thread? I missed the reason for this. As always great work and a superior solution for the kits imperfections. Cheers Ulf
Thanks for the vid Joe , my big take-away is that phenolic support for the follow rest, brilliant, as most jobs are tiny like yours and simplicity is golden! Cheers!
Thank you. That follow rest makes it an easy task.
Interesting fix. I have seen a number of old full sized machines and this feature is generally not cast in the body but separate. I have also seen a hole in the base to accept the lead screw for clearance. Kudos on a great fix but also a fix making the model more realistic. Nice Job Loe.
Beautiful to watch!!!
Joe, I'm drinking a beer watching your video as always with pleasure. I see that you made a nice plug on your cnc, just as I would too and made a nice brass/bronze insert. I took a sip and then the bushing was gone. Is this the beer or back to the future I'm experiencing? A moment later; the bushing is back? What happened? Ghost in the shop? Thank you Joe. 25% Polak, so a beer comes with the upbringing 🙂 And why does the spindle protrude out? I think it's historical. A lot of the older machines dropped down below the deck so the concrete slab underneath was made to it. All the best Joe! How to learn machining? Check out Joe Pie's channel!
very good job Mr Joe Pie
That was cool.
Nice work around.😎
Thanks 👍
straight out of the park!
Love your attention to detail and the extra mile you take to improve look and functionality of these models. I hope the guys from PM Research are paying attention and giving some form of compensation in return for the improvement ideas! Great work!
Thanks, I hope so too!
keep up the good work.
Luv that phenolic follow rest...have to make one...5*s
I love it. That Micarta follow rest is perfect for preventing deflection.
It works very well.
Great channel
👍 great idea making the new lug. I probably would have made it a press fit and had another mess.🙂
Great rescue. I didn't guess doing it like that. A similar part is needed for tensioning the chain in the chainsaw. It bottoms out too early.
That's what I figured you'd do, looks fantastic.
Thanks 👍
Great recovery. 👍 25:53
Thanks. Every failure is an opportunity to grow.
I can't wait to see how you go about scraping and flaking the dovetails...
As always you are the best. Greetings from Algeria
Thank you. Greetings from Austin Texas USA.
@@joepie221 I hope I will be lucky one day and have the honor of learning from you. Best wishes to you, dear sir, and thank you for the informations you share.
Nice work and a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome!
Thanks Joe, I’ve got to single-point a 2.0mm ( 079” ) thread on a stainless part, BUT I’ll be making your adjustable steady fixture, first ! Kind regards, Steve A.
Hi Joe, can you please go over the advantages and disadvantages of using a center drill vs a spot drill when starting a hole, either in the mill or lathe (or drill press)?
Joe you really make that look easy, which I know it isn’t. Another beautiful job! Quick question, when you tapped that left hand thread in the brass bushing I noticed you didn’t use any tap fluid, oil, anchor lube, etc. Was that because it was so small or because it was brass?
I brushed the tap with WD-40 off camera.
Did you happen to have a5-40 LH tap? or did you buy it for this job? I have know about fixtures and used them all my life. However....since I started watching you build these models I look at fixtures in a whole different light. You sir are the Fixture Guru! That follow rest is pure genius. Bravo Zulu!
Nice fix. That feature will draw attention.
Thanks. I have something special in mind for the spindle too.
Lots of bubbles in that casting.
Just drill a hole in the baseboard to receive the screw, that way you get full table travel. That's my guess on the length.
The unthreaded section of the shaft, the length of the present thread, the overall length of the shaft and the relative position of the spur gear to the shaft end, all need to be coordinated to get the maximum table travel. Simply drilling hole in the baseboard won't deliver the same result.
Much more betterer now. Do the people at PM Research act on any issues you find with the drawings or the castings? Regards, Preso
Great Job! So, how will you get the lead screw for the knee to fit into the space alotted? Didn't quite catch why it could be shortened?
Hello Joe. What would we do without fixtures and jigs in our trade. Retired now and still every once in a while I still use them on a friends lathe and mill. I really like this one for threading I am going to make one for his Bday. Well my friend, You've done it again. Nicely I might add. See you next post eh.
Great way to repair! I can not tell how the knee screw thrust is retained but it looks like when lifting the knee the thrust load is applied to the gears causing it to “tap” at every tooth.
I'm working on that.
I suppose the original machines allowed the lead screw to protrude through the base because,most machine shops had wood floors.No big deal to drill a hole through the floor 😂
Fantastic work. You mention that you use a blast cabinet, but what grit size do you use to blend the small parts?
#6 glass bead. Fine white media.
Would be one heck of a job if that mill had to be 1:87 scale. Judging by what you were creating the size would be in the 1:40 to 1: 50 region on scale more or less. Great videos on these models. For me its a must watch😅 at all times jus in case i need some tool or setup gem. Thank you an keep them coming. Be blessed and safe🙂
Thanks.
Great work as always, but how did you create the accurate radii on the plug.? It feels like a very long setup in a rotary table just to allow ease of with the pocket..
The plug he made on his CNC mill? It probably took longer to model it in his CAD software than to actually machine it on the mill.
It was a CNC part.
It's not often that a screw-up turns out successful. It did in this case. 👍
Put on 6” casters (scale) 😊
Did you get any feedback from the raw casting manufacturers to how the lower bracket was so far out of alignment? Nifty little fix Just as well you went to all the trouble of milling the tiny cupboard in the pedestal.
It does seem that someone in the drawing office didn't do their homework on component relationships before signing the drawings off.
I hate seeing that porosity in the casting as it looks like it had a bad case of Acne in it's youth, but the machining to this point is gorgeous, going to be a stunning little trophy in the end.
Joe, Always enjoy your videos, but is your shop located on a drag strip? Interesting audio.
I swear everyone is getting a louder more obnoxious muffler these days, can't find peace and quiet anywhere near a city.
And what is that other annoying noise that sounds like a bird or something clanking up in the rafters?
Good ☹️🇬🇧
The ~1890's B&S No. 6 Horizontal Mill in my garage has an excessively long screw as well, so your prints are likely period correct. Not sure why the designers intended for the screw to be so long though.
If I had to guess, they had a hole in the floor for the screw to drop through. The bottom wheel on large diameter bandsaws had the floor cut out for wheel clearance and maintain proper table height.
I had a big horizontal mill of (unknown) German manufacture, flat belt drive so certainly pre 2nd, if not 1st World War, and this had the same feature. There was no way the design would have allowed for a shorter leadscrew. I had to chisel out a hole in the floor for it. Maybe this was a commonplace design feature in those days.
You could maybe put it on a riser, but it would take a tall hand to run it.
👍👍
👍👍😎👍👍 Smooth
going to have a miniature Kurt mill vise video?
kzhead.info/sun/gdObncainJhte5s/bejne.html
Just a thought. Could you not drill and tap a screw into the square receiver from below. Hidden under the base
As I stated in the video, that was an option, but the mechanical engagement was 90 degrees to the draw I wanted. I wanted the screw to pull the slug flush.